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Photo: Brie Mazurek/CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69406\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joyce Goldstein. Photo: Brie Mazurek/CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Post by Brie Mazurek, Online Education Manager for \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/inside-california-food-revolution\">CUESA\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (8/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Daily menus, open kitchens, and women chefs may seem commonplace in today’s restaurants, but 40 years ago they were downright radical. Coming out of the social upheavals of the 1960s, California chefs, farmers, and food artisans of the 1970s bucked tradition in the kitchen and the fields, stirring a culinary revolution that has reverberated around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joyce Goldstein, one such pioneer, assembles this complex history in her new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520268197\">Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness\u003c/a> (University of California Press), weaving together nearly 200 interviews with farm-to-table visionaries such as CUESA founder Sibella Kraus, Warren Weber of Star Route Farms, Steve Sullivan of Acme Bread, and Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many chefs of her generation, Joyce was largely self-taught, nurtured on the writings of Elizabeth David, Craig Claiborne, and Irma Rombauer. After years of teaching cooking classes, she earned her restaurant chops at Chez Panisse, and in 1984 she opened her own restaurant, Square One, where the Mediterranean menu reflected California growing seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly 30 years and 26 cookbooks later, Joyce remains a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/market-memories-joyce-goldstein\">familiar face at the farmers market\u003c/a> and a fierce advocate for seasonal cooking. We talked with Joyce about California’s food legacy and future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: In the book, you say that California cuisine is “American cuisine, only more so.” Can you explain?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Joyce Goldstein:\u003c/strong> I was playing on the opening quote by Wallace Stegner (“Like the rest of America, California is unformed, innovative, ahistorical, hedonistic, acquisitive, and energetic—only more so”). In California, everything is a little more intense. We tend to plunge first, which is why we have so many entrepreneurs. In the 1970s, California was a totally permissive environment, which the rest of the United States was not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How do you characterize the style of cooking that developed in California in the 1970s?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520268197\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/inside_the_california_food_revolution.jpg\" alt=\" Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness by Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"250\" height=\"377\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-69405\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> You can’t sum it up neatly. It encompasses many things, like fresh, seasonal, and local. For many years, menus never changed. There were tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil on every menu, even in the winter. If a chef had a recipe with asparagus, they flew those asparagus in no matter what season it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, we decided we would serve things that were in season and local. Restaurants like the French Laundry and Chez Panisse were the first in the country to change the menu every day. We also had self-taught chefs. Everywhere else, people were going to cooking school or working their way up through the ranks. We had a lot of people opening restaurants who had never worked in a restaurant or gone to cooking school. And it was not only chefs who were self-taught. Warren Weber taught himself how to farm organically. Bill Niman learned how to raise animals himself. Laura Chenel taught herself how to make cheese. Steve Sullivan taught himself how to bake bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had no rules, and we had an audience to support us. It was an amazing climate. We also had the largest number of women chefs anywhere in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What else allowed this approach to food to develop and flourish in California?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> Many in our generation went to Europe or Asia after we went to school. In those days, you could travel and eat out inexpensively for months and months. People came back and said, “Why can’t we have radicchio and arugula here?” That pushed us to ask farmers to grow these things here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, we have a big advantage because our seasons are longer, and you can grow just about anything. We had farmers who were willing to take a chance and grow new things, and people like Georgeanne Brennan (of Le Marché Seeds) who brought in seeds from Europe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before 1970, you could only buy big heads of iceberg lettuce, all the herbs were dried, and you could not buy a wild mushroom if your life depended on it. There was nothing custom or specialty, and nothing was organic. You could not get many of the foods that we now take for granted at the farmers market and supermarket, like Chioggia beets, haricots verts, and multicolored cherry tomatoes. These were huge changes, and they started here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: As terms like farm-to-table, sustainable, and seasonal make their way into the mainstream, what do you see as the next frontier?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> I think you will see a lot more interest in local food, since so many more restaurants are hooking up with specific farms, as well as personal food that doesn’t necessarily follow traditional recipes from a culture, but uses good ingredients and flavors in a personal manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently read an interesting \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/25/booming/for-a-chef-41-years-in-the-kitchen-takes-its-toll.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">article in the New York Times about Mark Peel\u003c/a> and what happens to older chefs. Where do they go with their knowledge? It’s a young person’s profession. If you’re a serious chef, your life is not glamorous. You work seven days a week, you’re sleep deprived, and you injure your body. It’s nothing like television. The older you are the more knowledge you have, but the younger you are the more energy you have. It would be great if there were a partnership in restaurants in which the older people shared knowledge, and the younger people shared their bodies. It would be nice if there were a greater appreciation of the people who have been here for a while, keeping them in the pipeline in some valuable way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How can chefs effect broader change in our food system?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> It’s an education thing. It’s reaching kids when they’re young, and it’s getting more people to know how to cook when they are in grade school and high school. It pays to teach simple techniques, so people actually go home and do them. With these techniques and good ingredients, people can make very good food and save money. We can do it, but it’s going to be a long process. We’ve only just begun.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"CUESA interviews Joyce Goldstein about her new book \"Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness.\"","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1378248742,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1059},"headData":{"title":"Inside the California Food Revolution With Joyce Goldstein | KQED","description":"CUESA interviews Joyce Goldstein about her new book "Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness."","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Inside the California Food Revolution With Joyce Goldstein","datePublished":"2013-09-03T22:52:22.000Z","dateModified":"2013-09-03T22:52:22.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"69403 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=69403","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/03/inside-the-california-food-revolution-with-joyce-goldstein/","disqusTitle":"Inside the California Food Revolution With Joyce Goldstein","path":"/bayareabites/69403/inside-the-california-food-revolution-with-joyce-goldstein","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/joyce_goldstein_tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/joyce_goldstein_tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein. Photo: Brie Mazurek/CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69406\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joyce Goldstein. Photo: Brie Mazurek/CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Post by Brie Mazurek, Online Education Manager for \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/inside-california-food-revolution\">CUESA\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (8/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Daily menus, open kitchens, and women chefs may seem commonplace in today’s restaurants, but 40 years ago they were downright radical. Coming out of the social upheavals of the 1960s, California chefs, farmers, and food artisans of the 1970s bucked tradition in the kitchen and the fields, stirring a culinary revolution that has reverberated around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joyce Goldstein, one such pioneer, assembles this complex history in her new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520268197\">Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness\u003c/a> (University of California Press), weaving together nearly 200 interviews with farm-to-table visionaries such as CUESA founder Sibella Kraus, Warren Weber of Star Route Farms, Steve Sullivan of Acme Bread, and Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many chefs of her generation, Joyce was largely self-taught, nurtured on the writings of Elizabeth David, Craig Claiborne, and Irma Rombauer. After years of teaching cooking classes, she earned her restaurant chops at Chez Panisse, and in 1984 she opened her own restaurant, Square One, where the Mediterranean menu reflected California growing seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly 30 years and 26 cookbooks later, Joyce remains a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/market-memories-joyce-goldstein\">familiar face at the farmers market\u003c/a> and a fierce advocate for seasonal cooking. We talked with Joyce about California’s food legacy and future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: In the book, you say that California cuisine is “American cuisine, only more so.” Can you explain?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Joyce Goldstein:\u003c/strong> I was playing on the opening quote by Wallace Stegner (“Like the rest of America, California is unformed, innovative, ahistorical, hedonistic, acquisitive, and energetic—only more so”). In California, everything is a little more intense. We tend to plunge first, which is why we have so many entrepreneurs. In the 1970s, California was a totally permissive environment, which the rest of the United States was not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How do you characterize the style of cooking that developed in California in the 1970s?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520268197\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/inside_the_california_food_revolution.jpg\" alt=\" Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness by Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"250\" height=\"377\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-69405\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> You can’t sum it up neatly. It encompasses many things, like fresh, seasonal, and local. For many years, menus never changed. There were tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil on every menu, even in the winter. If a chef had a recipe with asparagus, they flew those asparagus in no matter what season it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, we decided we would serve things that were in season and local. Restaurants like the French Laundry and Chez Panisse were the first in the country to change the menu every day. We also had self-taught chefs. Everywhere else, people were going to cooking school or working their way up through the ranks. We had a lot of people opening restaurants who had never worked in a restaurant or gone to cooking school. And it was not only chefs who were self-taught. Warren Weber taught himself how to farm organically. Bill Niman learned how to raise animals himself. Laura Chenel taught herself how to make cheese. Steve Sullivan taught himself how to bake bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had no rules, and we had an audience to support us. It was an amazing climate. We also had the largest number of women chefs anywhere in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What else allowed this approach to food to develop and flourish in California?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> Many in our generation went to Europe or Asia after we went to school. In those days, you could travel and eat out inexpensively for months and months. People came back and said, “Why can’t we have radicchio and arugula here?” That pushed us to ask farmers to grow these things here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, we have a big advantage because our seasons are longer, and you can grow just about anything. We had farmers who were willing to take a chance and grow new things, and people like Georgeanne Brennan (of Le Marché Seeds) who brought in seeds from Europe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before 1970, you could only buy big heads of iceberg lettuce, all the herbs were dried, and you could not buy a wild mushroom if your life depended on it. There was nothing custom or specialty, and nothing was organic. You could not get many of the foods that we now take for granted at the farmers market and supermarket, like Chioggia beets, haricots verts, and multicolored cherry tomatoes. These were huge changes, and they started here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: As terms like farm-to-table, sustainable, and seasonal make their way into the mainstream, what do you see as the next frontier?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> I think you will see a lot more interest in local food, since so many more restaurants are hooking up with specific farms, as well as personal food that doesn’t necessarily follow traditional recipes from a culture, but uses good ingredients and flavors in a personal manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently read an interesting \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/25/booming/for-a-chef-41-years-in-the-kitchen-takes-its-toll.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">article in the New York Times about Mark Peel\u003c/a> and what happens to older chefs. Where do they go with their knowledge? It’s a young person’s profession. If you’re a serious chef, your life is not glamorous. You work seven days a week, you’re sleep deprived, and you injure your body. It’s nothing like television. The older you are the more knowledge you have, but the younger you are the more energy you have. It would be great if there were a partnership in restaurants in which the older people shared knowledge, and the younger people shared their bodies. It would be nice if there were a greater appreciation of the people who have been here for a while, keeping them in the pipeline in some valuable way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How can chefs effect broader change in our food system?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>JG:\u003c/strong> It’s an education thing. It’s reaching kids when they’re young, and it’s getting more people to know how to cook when they are in grade school and high school. It pays to teach simple techniques, so people actually go home and do them. With these techniques and good ingredients, people can make very good food and save money. We can do it, but it’s going to be a long process. We’ve only just begun.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/69403/inside-the-california-food-revolution-with-joyce-goldstein","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_12276"],"tags":["bayareabites_12307","bayareabites_1556"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69406","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_50181":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_50181","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"50181","score":null,"sort":[1350935534000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","title":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat","publishDate":1350935534,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd interviews Chef Mourad Lahlou, who recently accepted a position as a culinary diplomat in a program pioneered by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Lahlou details his favorite dining spots as well as what the local culinary \"brain drain\" is.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1350935776,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":2128},"headData":{"title":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd interviews Chef Mourad Lahlou, who recently accepted a position as a culinary diplomat in a program pioneered by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Lahlou details his favorite dining spots as well as what the local culinary "brain drain" is.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat","datePublished":"2012-10-22T19:52:14.000Z","dateModified":"2012-10-22T19:56:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"50181 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=50181","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/22/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat/","disqusTitle":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat","path":"/bayareabites/50181/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/50181/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_10811"],"featImg":"bayareabites_50274","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_31183":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_31183","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"31183","score":null,"sort":[1312910728000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","title":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs","publishDate":1312910728,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"228\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31214\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes. Photos: courtesy of SF Chefs 2011\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of celebrity-chef star power was on display last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefs2011.com\">SF Chefs 2011\u003c/a>. But on Sunday morning, when a lot of event-goers were still sleeping off the effects of Saturday night's tasting-tent cocktails, Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three of the city's true pioneer chefs, were chatting in front of a small but attentive audience, discussing the challenges, achievements, and changes happening then and now in San Francisco's restaurant scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some background, for you newcomers: Nancy Oakes is the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, the brasserie-style New American restaurant at the foot of Mission Street that's 18 years old and still garnering awards and a swarm of reservations every night. Before that, she was the chef/owner of L'Avenue, an acclaimed 50-seat bistro. She also heads the team at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> in Soma, which opened last year to rave reviews. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/25/at-the-mandarin-cecilia-chiang-changed-chinese-food/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, now in her 90s, brought the fiery flavors of Hunan and Szechuan cuisine to a city dominated by Cantonese cooking. She opened the 300-seat Mandarin in Ghirardelli Square in 1968, making it a destination restaurant with sophisticated service and decor. The Mandarin set a standard for high-end, authentic Chinese cooking, and Chiang ran the restaurant until 1991. She later became a consultant for Betelnut on Union Square; her son Phillip went on to found P.F. Chang's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>'s Square One restaurant, in Jackson Square, demonstrated that there was a lot more to real Mediterranean food than spaghetti and dolmas. Goldstein, a cooking teacher and former Cafe at Chez Panisse chef who had lived and traveled extensively all around the Mediterranean, brought the vibrant, sunny flavors of these countries back to California. Square One, which she opened in 1984, offered dishes inspired by everything from Spanish tapas to Turkish mezze to Moroccan tagines. It helped shape the Mediterranean focus of California cuisine that continues today. Goldstein closed the restaurant in 1997, but has continued as a popular cookbook author, teacher, and consultant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many successful women who have weathered the ups and downs of a demanding profession, they get a little tired of being classified as \"women chefs.\" However, this profession is still one that's dominated by men, and it was much more so back in the 1960s, when all three were starting out. But it helped to be in San Francisco. Said Joyce, \"The Bay Area was always progressive. Banks here would lend women money. There were a lot of women entrepreneurs, women running businesses in the city.\" Now, she says, there are a lot of women in the wine business, women not just working as pastry chefs but running their own bakeries, manufacturing their own jams and confections, running businesses rather than just cooking at home for fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang had a different experience, trying to break into what was then a very insular, Cantonese-dominated Chinese food world. Said Chiang, \"I was a woman, and restaurants weren't a women's business. I can't speak Cantonese, and then 90% of the Chinese-restaurant population spoke Cantonese. I would speak Mandarin to them, and they'd laugh at me, be very insulting, treat me like a foreigner. I couldn't get credit at any of the produce, fish, or meat markets in Chinatown; I had to pay cash for everything. The Americans were so kind, they accepted me, but not the Chinese, because I was a woman.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, said Nancy, women in the business are competing on a level playing field, especially here in the Bay Area, where there's more diversity, and kitchens are less dominated by the European boys' club common in New York restaurants. So, why do male chefs still get the lion's share of press and notoriety? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, besides \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a>, who keeps her end up being outrageous, most women chefs don't feel they have to be potty-mouthed in the school of [Anthony] Bourdain and [David] Chang, traveling in packs and dropping f-bombs. Women do this because we like the work, not to be a celebrity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the three of them, they've seen a lot of trends come and go. Foraging, for example, is nothing new. Back in Chez Panisse's early years, Nancy remembered Alice Waters and pastry chef Lindsey Shere constantly picking through the Berkeley backyards of their friends and neighbors, making poundcakes scented with rose geranium leaves, plucking nasturtium blossoms and purslane for salads. \"I keep learning,\" noted Nancy. \"I'm not a chemical-food or foam advocate, but when you've got a bunch of 23-year-olds in the kitchen who are excited about this kind of thing, well, I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-sanctuaire.com\">Le Sanctuaire\u003c/a>, we get out the gels and the foams and see what works, what will really be worth eating, what will stand the test of time. I think you need 100 years to really create a cuisine. How long has it been for California cuisine, 30, 40 years? We're still finding out what will last.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was first starting out, I needed a lot of ingredients that the Cantonese don't use. No one carried them; I had to get everything shipped in from Taiwan. Now, you can get anything in Asian markets, things from all over,\" said Cecilia. She's less impressed with the quality of Chinese restaurants in the Bay Area now. \"The cooks aren't professionally trained, they don't have passion. It's just a business.\" As a restaurant-owning friend pointed out to her, a restaurant can make so much more money off hard liquor and entertainment, like karaoke, there's little incentive to invest in high-quality ingredients or top-notch chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's been so much progression in Mediterranean food. It's much more about specific cuisines now,\" noted Joyce. Restaurants don't just serve Italian food, they serve Roman, Sicilian, or Sardinian food. And the quality of up-and-coming cooks is higher, too. \"Everyone's going to cooking schools, doing \u003cem>stages\u003c/em>...they don't always have the palate or the passion, but they do have the skills.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do they miss? The California-meets-Chinese cuisine of the late \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, for one, whose China Moon Cafe has never been equaled. \"She was a scholar, extremely meticulous, doing Chinese cooking with California ingredients. No else has picked up on that, to the degree that she was doing,\" said Joyce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And where do they go now? \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, said Nancy. \"I like the great spirit there, the service, the wine list where I never recognize anything but always find something interesting, the fact that 10% of the cost of the tasting menu goes to charity.\" Goldstein agreed. Normally suspicious of tech-y modernist cuisine, she said, \"I was pleasantly surprised! Jason Fox understands texture, he understands flavor, and they understand hospitality. I feel the same about \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I bring people there from out of town. Yes, it's boisterous, but the food is solid and grounded, and I love the wine list. Perbacco, too, because I always learn something. And because I like to see the chef actually in the restaurant, in the farmers' market.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, says Cecilia. It's very consistent, and the prices haven't changed. She likes \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com\">Benu\u003c/a>, too, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very hard to stay viable, and stay relevant,\" Nancy admitted. \"It's an art, and it's a business.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three women who shaped the San Francisco restaurant scene come together to discuss the past and future of food at SF Chefs 2011.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1312911024,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1259},"headData":{"title":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs | KQED","description":"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three women who shaped the San Francisco restaurant scene come together to discuss the past and future of food at SF Chefs 2011.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs","datePublished":"2011-08-09T17:25:28.000Z","dateModified":"2011-08-09T17:30:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"31183 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=31183","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/","disqusTitle":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs","path":"/bayareabites/31183/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"228\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31214\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes. Photos: courtesy of SF Chefs 2011\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of celebrity-chef star power was on display last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefs2011.com\">SF Chefs 2011\u003c/a>. But on Sunday morning, when a lot of event-goers were still sleeping off the effects of Saturday night's tasting-tent cocktails, Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three of the city's true pioneer chefs, were chatting in front of a small but attentive audience, discussing the challenges, achievements, and changes happening then and now in San Francisco's restaurant scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some background, for you newcomers: Nancy Oakes is the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, the brasserie-style New American restaurant at the foot of Mission Street that's 18 years old and still garnering awards and a swarm of reservations every night. Before that, she was the chef/owner of L'Avenue, an acclaimed 50-seat bistro. She also heads the team at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> in Soma, which opened last year to rave reviews. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/25/at-the-mandarin-cecilia-chiang-changed-chinese-food/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, now in her 90s, brought the fiery flavors of Hunan and Szechuan cuisine to a city dominated by Cantonese cooking. She opened the 300-seat Mandarin in Ghirardelli Square in 1968, making it a destination restaurant with sophisticated service and decor. The Mandarin set a standard for high-end, authentic Chinese cooking, and Chiang ran the restaurant until 1991. She later became a consultant for Betelnut on Union Square; her son Phillip went on to found P.F. Chang's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>'s Square One restaurant, in Jackson Square, demonstrated that there was a lot more to real Mediterranean food than spaghetti and dolmas. Goldstein, a cooking teacher and former Cafe at Chez Panisse chef who had lived and traveled extensively all around the Mediterranean, brought the vibrant, sunny flavors of these countries back to California. Square One, which she opened in 1984, offered dishes inspired by everything from Spanish tapas to Turkish mezze to Moroccan tagines. It helped shape the Mediterranean focus of California cuisine that continues today. Goldstein closed the restaurant in 1997, but has continued as a popular cookbook author, teacher, and consultant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many successful women who have weathered the ups and downs of a demanding profession, they get a little tired of being classified as \"women chefs.\" However, this profession is still one that's dominated by men, and it was much more so back in the 1960s, when all three were starting out. But it helped to be in San Francisco. Said Joyce, \"The Bay Area was always progressive. Banks here would lend women money. There were a lot of women entrepreneurs, women running businesses in the city.\" Now, she says, there are a lot of women in the wine business, women not just working as pastry chefs but running their own bakeries, manufacturing their own jams and confections, running businesses rather than just cooking at home for fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang had a different experience, trying to break into what was then a very insular, Cantonese-dominated Chinese food world. Said Chiang, \"I was a woman, and restaurants weren't a women's business. I can't speak Cantonese, and then 90% of the Chinese-restaurant population spoke Cantonese. I would speak Mandarin to them, and they'd laugh at me, be very insulting, treat me like a foreigner. I couldn't get credit at any of the produce, fish, or meat markets in Chinatown; I had to pay cash for everything. The Americans were so kind, they accepted me, but not the Chinese, because I was a woman.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, said Nancy, women in the business are competing on a level playing field, especially here in the Bay Area, where there's more diversity, and kitchens are less dominated by the European boys' club common in New York restaurants. So, why do male chefs still get the lion's share of press and notoriety? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, besides \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a>, who keeps her end up being outrageous, most women chefs don't feel they have to be potty-mouthed in the school of [Anthony] Bourdain and [David] Chang, traveling in packs and dropping f-bombs. Women do this because we like the work, not to be a celebrity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the three of them, they've seen a lot of trends come and go. Foraging, for example, is nothing new. Back in Chez Panisse's early years, Nancy remembered Alice Waters and pastry chef Lindsey Shere constantly picking through the Berkeley backyards of their friends and neighbors, making poundcakes scented with rose geranium leaves, plucking nasturtium blossoms and purslane for salads. \"I keep learning,\" noted Nancy. \"I'm not a chemical-food or foam advocate, but when you've got a bunch of 23-year-olds in the kitchen who are excited about this kind of thing, well, I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-sanctuaire.com\">Le Sanctuaire\u003c/a>, we get out the gels and the foams and see what works, what will really be worth eating, what will stand the test of time. I think you need 100 years to really create a cuisine. How long has it been for California cuisine, 30, 40 years? We're still finding out what will last.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was first starting out, I needed a lot of ingredients that the Cantonese don't use. No one carried them; I had to get everything shipped in from Taiwan. Now, you can get anything in Asian markets, things from all over,\" said Cecilia. She's less impressed with the quality of Chinese restaurants in the Bay Area now. \"The cooks aren't professionally trained, they don't have passion. It's just a business.\" As a restaurant-owning friend pointed out to her, a restaurant can make so much more money off hard liquor and entertainment, like karaoke, there's little incentive to invest in high-quality ingredients or top-notch chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's been so much progression in Mediterranean food. It's much more about specific cuisines now,\" noted Joyce. Restaurants don't just serve Italian food, they serve Roman, Sicilian, or Sardinian food. And the quality of up-and-coming cooks is higher, too. \"Everyone's going to cooking schools, doing \u003cem>stages\u003c/em>...they don't always have the palate or the passion, but they do have the skills.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do they miss? The California-meets-Chinese cuisine of the late \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, for one, whose China Moon Cafe has never been equaled. \"She was a scholar, extremely meticulous, doing Chinese cooking with California ingredients. No else has picked up on that, to the degree that she was doing,\" said Joyce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And where do they go now? \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, said Nancy. \"I like the great spirit there, the service, the wine list where I never recognize anything but always find something interesting, the fact that 10% of the cost of the tasting menu goes to charity.\" Goldstein agreed. Normally suspicious of tech-y modernist cuisine, she said, \"I was pleasantly surprised! Jason Fox understands texture, he understands flavor, and they understand hospitality. I feel the same about \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I bring people there from out of town. Yes, it's boisterous, but the food is solid and grounded, and I love the wine list. Perbacco, too, because I always learn something. And because I like to see the chef actually in the restaurant, in the farmers' market.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, says Cecilia. It's very consistent, and the prices haven't changed. She likes \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com\">Benu\u003c/a>, too, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very hard to stay viable, and stay relevant,\" Nancy admitted. \"It's an art, and it's a business.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/31183/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_4003","bayareabites_9581","bayareabites_9582"],"featImg":"bayareabites_31214","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_22898":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_22898","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"22898","score":null,"sort":[1297272433000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"butternut-squash-polenta-meat-lovers-v-vegetarians","title":"Butternut Squash Polenta: Meat-lovers v. Vegetarians","publishDate":1297272433,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2011_02_polenta_two_ways-2.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\" title=\"Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22900\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a huge fan of \u003cstrong>polenta\u003c/strong>. It's rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. I almost always add a nice handful of cheese to the mix (think cheesey grits), sometime I wilt some \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/recipes/the-chicken-or-the-egg/\">spinach or arugula\u003c/a> into it to boost the health quotient, or my latest favorite add-in has been \u003cstrong>roasted butternut squash\u003c/strong>. The sweet caramelized squash marries well with the wholesome sweet cornmeal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is polenta delicious, it is also very forgiving, as I learned from \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>, who taught me how to make a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/10/cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein/\">pumpkin polenta with pork and chestnut stew\u003c/a>. As Goldstein says, unlike risotto, which you have to serve right away, polenta you can baby, and keep it on the stove until you're ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason I love polenta so much is for its versatility. You can serve it freshly made, while it has the consistency of warm pudding. Or, you can chill it in a baking sheet, and then cut it out into shapes (squares, triangles, strips, rounds, whatever you desire) to pan fry into the best leftovers you've ever had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my freshly made version, I paired my \u003cstrong>butternut squash polenta\u003c/strong> with a deceptively easy \u003cstrong>pulled pork\u003c/strong>. I started with a lean and inexpensive cut of pork tenderloin, and seared it off so that a nice golden crust formed on both sides. Then, the aromatics (onion and garlic) and spices (chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne) are introduced. The cinnamon and cumin in particular add a great smoky-sweet dimension, while the chili and cayenne bring some heat. Now for the tang. Ketchup and apple cider vinegar create the acidity that really flavors the meat. The pork is shredded and then left to simmer in the sauce. The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for this tangy, saucy pulled pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2011_02_polenta_two_ways-1.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\" title=\"Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\" width=\"346\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22899\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, for the leftover polenta! Pan-fried polenta cakes make for the perfect hors d'oeuvres because you can top them with virtually anything. I love topping my \u003cstrong>butternut squash polenta cakes\u003c/strong> with a \u003cstrong>roasted veggie spread\u003c/strong> made with eggplant, red peppers, red onion, and tomato paste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Best of all, you can make this dish ahead of time. The veggie spread can be whirred up the day before and kept in the fridge. And, the polenta cakes can even be cut up ahead of time and kept under plastic wrap. When you're ready to assemble, simply dust the polenta cakes with a flour/cornstarch mix to make sure they get a nice crust, and you're good to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the idea of jockeying for a reservation at an expensive restaurant on 2/14 makes you cringe, why not \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/14/valentines-day-at-home/\">spend Valentine's Day at home\u003c/a> and cozy up to a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/13/roasted-beet-inspiration-from-pasta-sfoglia/\">romantic meal\u003c/a> made with love. Whether it's a homey dish of \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/strong>, or a fancy looking appetizer of \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>, polenta will be sure to earn you some big points with your honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for the tangy, saucy pulled pork.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Pulled Pork\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchens/pulled-pork-recipe/index.html\">Food Network\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chili powder\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon ground cumin\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup ketchup\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup apple cider vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound, cut into 4 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large pot heat the oil over medium heat. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add the pork to the pot and sear both sides, flipping only once so that a nice golden crust forms. Remove the pork and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion and garlic to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook until softened and lightly browned (about 5 minutes). Add the chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until toasted (1 minute more).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in the broth, ketchup, vinegar, and brown sugar. Bring to a simmer and add the pork. Simmer, covered, until the pork is just cooked through and tender (about 20 minutes).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the pork to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes. Increase the heat on the remaining sauce in the pot to medium-high and cook until thickened (about 5 minutes). Remove from the heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shred the pork with two forks into large chunks and add back into the thickened sauce. Toss well to coat. Let stand 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, to let the pork absorb the sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)\u003cbr>\n7 cups cold water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese\u003cbr>\nsalt & pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 450 degrees. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: To make polenta cakes with leftovers, spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready cut into shapes and pan fry.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>If you've already refrigerated your leftover polenta, skip to Step 6.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8-10 (as an appetizer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)\u003cbr>\n7 cups cold water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese\u003cbr>\nsalt & pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour + 2 tablespoons cornstarch\u003cbr>\noil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 450 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the polenta out in squares.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Dust both sides with the flour/cornstarch mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat up some oil in a frying pan and fry the polenta squares, flipping once, so that a browned crust forms on each side.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut into triangles, top with a spoonful of Roasted Veggie Spread, and sprinkle with grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/roasted-eggplant-spread-recipe/index.html\">Ina Garten\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium eggplant\u003cbr>\n2 red bell peppers, seeded\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the eggplant, bell pepper, and onion into 1-inch cubes. Toss them in a large bowl with the garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roast for 45 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned and soft, tossing once during cooking. Cool slightly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the vegetables in a food processor, add the tomato paste, and blend until everything is pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Polenta. It’s rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. Here I've added roasted butternut squash to the sweet cornmeal and paired it saucy, tangy pulled pork. For leftovers, take a look at our pretty polenta cakes topped with a roasted veggie spread.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1297272442,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1486},"headData":{"title":"Butternut Squash Polenta: Meat-lovers v. Vegetarians | KQED","description":"Polenta. It’s rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. Here I've added roasted butternut squash to the sweet cornmeal and paired it saucy, tangy pulled pork. For leftovers, take a look at our pretty polenta cakes topped with a roasted veggie spread.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Butternut Squash Polenta: Meat-lovers v. Vegetarians","datePublished":"2011-02-09T17:27:13.000Z","dateModified":"2011-02-09T17:27:22.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"22898 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=22898","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/09/butternut-squash-polenta-meat-lovers-v-vegetarians/","disqusTitle":"Butternut Squash Polenta: Meat-lovers v. Vegetarians","path":"/bayareabites/22898/butternut-squash-polenta-meat-lovers-v-vegetarians","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2011_02_polenta_two_ways-2.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\" title=\"Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22900\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a huge fan of \u003cstrong>polenta\u003c/strong>. It's rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. I almost always add a nice handful of cheese to the mix (think cheesey grits), sometime I wilt some \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/recipes/the-chicken-or-the-egg/\">spinach or arugula\u003c/a> into it to boost the health quotient, or my latest favorite add-in has been \u003cstrong>roasted butternut squash\u003c/strong>. The sweet caramelized squash marries well with the wholesome sweet cornmeal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is polenta delicious, it is also very forgiving, as I learned from \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>, who taught me how to make a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/10/cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein/\">pumpkin polenta with pork and chestnut stew\u003c/a>. As Goldstein says, unlike risotto, which you have to serve right away, polenta you can baby, and keep it on the stove until you're ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason I love polenta so much is for its versatility. You can serve it freshly made, while it has the consistency of warm pudding. Or, you can chill it in a baking sheet, and then cut it out into shapes (squares, triangles, strips, rounds, whatever you desire) to pan fry into the best leftovers you've ever had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my freshly made version, I paired my \u003cstrong>butternut squash polenta\u003c/strong> with a deceptively easy \u003cstrong>pulled pork\u003c/strong>. I started with a lean and inexpensive cut of pork tenderloin, and seared it off so that a nice golden crust formed on both sides. Then, the aromatics (onion and garlic) and spices (chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne) are introduced. The cinnamon and cumin in particular add a great smoky-sweet dimension, while the chili and cayenne bring some heat. Now for the tang. Ketchup and apple cider vinegar create the acidity that really flavors the meat. The pork is shredded and then left to simmer in the sauce. The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for this tangy, saucy pulled pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2011_02_polenta_two_ways-1.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\" title=\"Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\" width=\"346\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22899\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, for the leftover polenta! Pan-fried polenta cakes make for the perfect hors d'oeuvres because you can top them with virtually anything. I love topping my \u003cstrong>butternut squash polenta cakes\u003c/strong> with a \u003cstrong>roasted veggie spread\u003c/strong> made with eggplant, red peppers, red onion, and tomato paste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Best of all, you can make this dish ahead of time. The veggie spread can be whirred up the day before and kept in the fridge. And, the polenta cakes can even be cut up ahead of time and kept under plastic wrap. When you're ready to assemble, simply dust the polenta cakes with a flour/cornstarch mix to make sure they get a nice crust, and you're good to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the idea of jockeying for a reservation at an expensive restaurant on 2/14 makes you cringe, why not \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/14/valentines-day-at-home/\">spend Valentine's Day at home\u003c/a> and cozy up to a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/13/roasted-beet-inspiration-from-pasta-sfoglia/\">romantic meal\u003c/a> made with love. Whether it's a homey dish of \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/strong>, or a fancy looking appetizer of \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>, polenta will be sure to earn you some big points with your honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for the tangy, saucy pulled pork.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Pulled Pork\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchens/pulled-pork-recipe/index.html\">Food Network\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chili powder\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon ground cumin\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup ketchup\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup apple cider vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound, cut into 4 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large pot heat the oil over medium heat. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add the pork to the pot and sear both sides, flipping only once so that a nice golden crust forms. Remove the pork and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion and garlic to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook until softened and lightly browned (about 5 minutes). Add the chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until toasted (1 minute more).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in the broth, ketchup, vinegar, and brown sugar. Bring to a simmer and add the pork. Simmer, covered, until the pork is just cooked through and tender (about 20 minutes).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the pork to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes. Increase the heat on the remaining sauce in the pot to medium-high and cook until thickened (about 5 minutes). Remove from the heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shred the pork with two forks into large chunks and add back into the thickened sauce. Toss well to coat. Let stand 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, to let the pork absorb the sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)\u003cbr>\n7 cups cold water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese\u003cbr>\nsalt & pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 450 degrees. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: To make polenta cakes with leftovers, spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready cut into shapes and pan fry.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>If you've already refrigerated your leftover polenta, skip to Step 6.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8-10 (as an appetizer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)\u003cbr>\n7 cups cold water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese\u003cbr>\nsalt & pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour + 2 tablespoons cornstarch\u003cbr>\noil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 450 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the polenta out in squares.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Dust both sides with the flour/cornstarch mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat up some oil in a frying pan and fry the polenta squares, flipping once, so that a browned crust forms on each side.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut into triangles, top with a spoonful of Roasted Veggie Spread, and sprinkle with grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Roasted Veggie Spread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/roasted-eggplant-spread-recipe/index.html\">Ina Garten\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium eggplant\u003cbr>\n2 red bell peppers, seeded\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the eggplant, bell pepper, and onion into 1-inch cubes. Toss them in a large bowl with the garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roast for 45 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned and soft, tossing once during cooking. Cool slightly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the vegetables in a food processor, add the tomato paste, and blend until everything is pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/22898/butternut-squash-polenta-meat-lovers-v-vegetarians","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_1642","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_8951","bayareabites_1781","bayareabites_8952"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_11168":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_11168","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"11168","score":null,"sort":[1268244245000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein","title":"Cooking Class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein","publishDate":1268244245,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-245.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\" title=\"Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11183\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pulled up to the quaint \u003ca href=\"http://ramekins.com/%20\">Ramekins Cooking School and Inn\u003c/a> in Sonoma, and knew I'd like this place as soon as I laid eyes on the spork and spoon handles on the front door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was invited by \u003cstrong>Ramekins\u003c/strong> to check out one of their many cooking classes and stay at their 6-room bed and breakfast. Cooking classes include both demonstration and hands-on classes, and are geared toward food enthusiasts and home cooks. Well, I'm always saying how I really need to make it up to wine country more often than I do, and this sounded like the perfect excuse! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-038.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11171\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, I saw that the esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> would be teaching a \u003cem>Regional Tour of Italy: The Veneto\u003c/em> with this mouth-watering menu: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\tWarm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\u003cbr>\n•\tCrab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\u003cbr>\n•\tPork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\u003cbr>\n•\tBlood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, let's recap. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tWeekend getaway in Sonoma. (Check)\u003cbr>\n2)\tAdorable B&B. (Check)\u003cbr>\n3)\tCooking class with a culinary legend. (Check)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right. Sign me up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-009.jpg\" alt=\"Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\" title=\"Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11170\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since this was a demonstration class, there was no actual hands-on cooking by us students, however, there was plenty of Q&A, discussion, and of course, tasting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-138.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\" title=\"Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11173\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joyce was full of knowledge about Italian cuisine, tips and tricks when preparing the dishes on our own, and stories. As we nibbled on succulent seared scallops and gorgeous chanterelle mushrooms, she lectured us on proper and humane tomato care (\u003cem>\"once you refrigerate a tomato, you commit murder\"\u003c/em>), gave us tips on how to select a good salad dressing-quality \u003ca href=\"http://www.planetorganics.com/san-giuliano-alghero-balsamic-vinegar.html\">balsamic vinegar\u003c/a> (\u003cem>\"if the first ingredient is 'caramel' or 'vinegar', put it down; look for 'grape must' as a primary ingredient\"\u003c/em>), and warned us against overcooking the scallops (\u003cem>\"they should be quivering in the middle\"\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-162.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\" title=\"Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11174\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we tucked into the brightly flavored risotto made with sweet crab meat, fennel, and a gremolata of meyer lemon zest, parsley and garlic, we learned that the Venetians actually prefer their risotto on the soupy side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of Venetians, I asked Joyce, why the Veneto? She replied that while this meal actually borrows from various regions of Italy, she originally wanted to highlight Venice because of its interesting culinary history born from its unique location. One of the first cities in the spice trade, the food of the Veneto was influenced by goods traded by merchants traveling in and out of the port (like Marco Polo, Venice's most famous traveler). The food and drink of the Veneto includes an abundance of seafood, game meat (an influence of Yugoslavia), artichokes, radicchio, rice (rather than pasta), lighter wines, and grappa. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-170.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Stew with Chestnuts\" title=\"Pork Stew with Chestnuts\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11175\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork Stew with Chestnuts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this edification got me hungry. Good thing the pork stew was ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally prepared with wild boar, Joyce first had this dish at a farro farm in Abruzzo. Farro was the earliest wheat that was cultivated in Europe. It tastes like barley, is sweet and hazelnutty, and puffs up when it is cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a few adaptations made, our stew featured pork shoulder rather than boar, and a delicious pumpkin polenta rather than farro. The pork stew was rich and hearty, slow simmered with red wine (Pinot Noir and Valpolicella), aromatics, sage, and warm spices (juniper berries, cloves, and cinnamon). It also contained chestnuts, which added a superb sweetness and richness to the stew. They were delicious, and I don't usually even like chestnuts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used vacuum-packed cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.ponthiersa.com/en-GB/gms_marrons_vide.php\">chestnuts\u003c/a>, but if you're shelling fresh ones, Joyce let us in on a little secret she discovered to save your hands, and time. Cut an \"X\" on the flat side of the chestnuts, cutting through to the brown skin, then microwave them for a bit. The hard outer shell and bitter inner skin should easily come off afterward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-172.jpg\" alt=\"Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\" title=\"Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11176\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and let's not forget the polenta. The pumpkin polenta was heavenly. Granted, I may be biased, since as you may already know, I am a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/07/29/thai-curry-and-talking-to-strangers/\">pumpkin\u003c/a>/\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/20/butternut-squash-mac-and-cheese-with-sage-and-gingersnap-pecan-crust/\">butternut squash\u003c/a>/\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/14/sweet-potato-gratin/\">sweet potato\u003c/a> freak. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really, what is there not to love about this savory-sweet, rich combination of pumpkin, cornmeal, and parmesan cheese? Other than being utterly delicious, polenta is also pretty forgiving. Unlike risotto, which needs to hit the table as soon as it's ready, \u003cem>\"Polenta, you can baby,\"\u003c/em> as Joyce puts it. (Brands recommended for polenta: \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.granzellas.com/Products/Golden-Pheasant-Polenta__10.aspx\">Gold Pheasant\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, a great trick we learned to avoid lumps in it was to start with the polenta in \u003cstrong>cold water\u003c/strong> rather than streaming it into boiling water like most recipes call for. Brilliant. Why didn’t I think of that before? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-078.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11172\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for my favorite part…the course that clinched it when I signed up for this class -- the \u003cstrong>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/strong>, which needless to say, did not disappoint. It was fragrant, perfumed by the gorgeous blood oranges and Grand Marnier (two of my favorite ingredients of all time), and had a perfectly buttery, flaky crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Joyce so aptly describes, a blood orange tastes different from other oranges, it is really floral, \u003cem>“like an orange mixed with a rose.”\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This tart is adapted from a recipe served at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.vineriacozzi.it/\">Vineria Cozzi\u003c/a> in Bergamo Alta. It is called \u003cem>Crostata di Marmellata delle Suore Trappiste\u003c/em>, a tart filled with jam made by the Trappist nuns. The recipe takes a homemade orange marmalade and binds it with eggs and cornstarch. Fitting. It tastes divine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-192.jpg\" alt=\"Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\" title=\"Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11178\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tricks of the trade when making this:\u003cbr>\n•\tUse a sharp vegetable peeler to remove all the zest from the oranges. It is the quickest way I've ever seen zest removed. After you have all the peel, chop it finely.\u003cbr>\n•\tRemember to discard the bitter pith.\u003cbr>\n•\tBlood oranges are small so you don't need to really segment them, especially since it is all being cooked down anyway for the marmalade. Just chop them up into 1 inch pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than this tart -- which I've been thinking about ever since -- what struck me was a comment that someone made towards the end of the class. She was a woman who was an old fan of Joyce's restaurant, Square One, before it closed in 1996. She was not alone, as it seemed that the class was filled with devout fans. The woman used to come in from Central Valley for a night out at Square One, and wrote in once after being particularly taken by a certain apple tart. Joyce wrote her back (she answered every letter that came in), and said they make it en masse, so the translation may not be perfect, but nonetheless, here was the recipe. It worked beautifully, and this was the first chance the woman had to thank Joyce personally. The room burst into applause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-216.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Inn, apple art\" title=\"Ramekins Inn, apple art\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11180\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Inn, apple art\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story got me thinking about food and how our best memories of particular dishes or meals are inextricably tied to the people who made them special. It is not only about the food, but about the stories and the shared experience. Maybe that is why places like Ramekins make me so happy. Places that get it. They get the love of food (it's written on the apple-adorned walls and asparagus-lined railing), and they get that people are looking to share that experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-239.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\" title=\"Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11182\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart (Crostata di marmellata all’arancia)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe and notes courtesy of Joyce Goldstein, from \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/limysp-20/detail/0520243773\">Perfect Pairings\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jam filled lattice-topped tarts are popular all over Italy. In Rome they prefer cherry jam. Some tarts are prepared with apricot or berry preserves. At the Vineria Cozzi in Bergamo Alta they serve a crostata di marmellata delle Suore Trappiste, filled with jam made by the Trappist nuns. This recipe takes a home made orange marmalade and binds it with eggs and cornstarch. Blood oranges, now available at our markets, would add their special perfume and color, to the tart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta Frolla for two crusts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups all purpose flour\u003cbr>\npinch salt\u003cbr>\n4 to 6 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n12 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 to 5 tablespoons ice water, as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 large navel oranges or 5 to 6 blood oranges\u003cbr>\n1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>\njuice of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup water\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons cornstarch\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n3 eggs\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Crust:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the flour and salt and sugar in the container of a food processor or mixing bowl. Cut in the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Gradually beat in the ice water. Turn dough out onto work surface and form into 2 flattened discs, one slightly larger than the other. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least an hour.\u003cbr>\n2. Roll out the large disc between very lightly floured sheets of baker’s parchment until you have a circle that is 13 inches in diameter. Carefully ease it into a 9 inch pie plate or 10 inch tart tin with a removable bottom. Chill the crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Filling\u003c/strong>:\u003cbr>\n1. Wash and dry the oranges. With a sharp peeler carefully remove all of the zest from all 3 oranges and chop finely. Separate the oranges into segments and put them in a medium saucepan along with the chopped zest, 1/3 cup sugar, the lemon juice and the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring form time to time. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. The filling can be made a day ahead of time and left at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.\u003cbr>\n3. Place remaining sugar in a mixing bowl with the cornstarch and mix with a fork. Add the butter and beat until smooth and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Fold in the cooled marmalade and the Grand Marnier.\u003cbr>\n4. Pour the filling into the pie crust. Roll out the remaining pastry between lightly floured sheets of baker's parchment into a rectangle about 9 by 12 inches. Remove the top piece of parchment and cut into strips with a pastry wheel. Moisten the edge of the crust with a bit of water and then arrange the strips like a lattice on top of the filling.\u003cbr>\n5. Bake 10 minutes then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F and continue to bake the tart for 30 to 40 minutes or until filling is set and crust is slightly colored.\u003cbr>\n6. Cool and serve with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More Recipes Courtesy of Joyce Goldstein:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/warm-scallop-and-mushroom-salad/\">Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad, from \u003cem>Antipasti: Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/risotto-with-crab-fennel-and-meyer-lemon-gremolata/%20\">Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata, adapted from \u003cem>Back to Square One\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/pork-stew-pumpkin-polenta/\">Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta, from \u003cem>Italian Slow and Savory\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Upcoming classes at Ramekins that caught my eye:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>03/25/10, \u003cem>An Evening of Food and Wine Pairin\u003c/em>g (Demo, $85) with Joyce and her son, Evan Goldstein, a James Beard Award-winning master sommelier and career wine educator. Way to keep it in the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>04/03/10, \u003cem>Top Five Desserts\u003c/em> (Hands-on, $85) with Joy Wilson, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.joythebaker.com/blog/\">Joy the Baker\u003c/a>. Small world, I ran into Joy as we were leaving Ramekins…thought I had smelled something good baking downstairs! She's returning to teach another class in April. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>04/29/10, \u003cem>Perbacco Restaurant\u003c/em> (Demo, $75) with Staffan Terje, chef/owner of Perbacco. Chef Terje will be showcasing fresh seasonal ingredients and cooking techniques that are the basis of haute cuisine. Which means, you can expect a haute Italian dinner from one of SF’s finest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ramekins.com/\">Ramekins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n450 West Spain Street\u003cbr>\nSonoma, CA 95476\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Ramekins+450+West+Spain+Street+Sonoma,+CA+95476&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=47.972233,56.601563&ie=UTF8&hq=Ramekins&hnear=450+W+Spain+St,+Sonoma,+CA+95476&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(707) 933-0452\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclosure: Cooking class and accommodations provided by Ramekins.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more Joyce, check out \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Check, Please! Bay Area: Season 3: Joyce Goldstein Special\u003c/a>, where she profiles three Bay Area restaurants: Medjool, B44, and Da Flora.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A peek into a cooking class at Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma, taught by Joyce Goldstein. Recipes included!","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1268244245,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":55,"wordCount":2051},"headData":{"title":"Cooking Class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein | KQED","description":"A peek into a cooking class at Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma, taught by Joyce Goldstein. Recipes included!","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cooking Class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein","datePublished":"2010-03-10T18:04:05.000Z","dateModified":"2010-03-10T18:04:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"11168 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=11168","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/10/cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein/","disqusTitle":"Cooking Class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein","path":"/bayareabites/11168/cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-245.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\" title=\"Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11183\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Cooking School and Inn in Sonoma\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pulled up to the quaint \u003ca href=\"http://ramekins.com/%20\">Ramekins Cooking School and Inn\u003c/a> in Sonoma, and knew I'd like this place as soon as I laid eyes on the spork and spoon handles on the front door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was invited by \u003cstrong>Ramekins\u003c/strong> to check out one of their many cooking classes and stay at their 6-room bed and breakfast. Cooking classes include both demonstration and hands-on classes, and are geared toward food enthusiasts and home cooks. Well, I'm always saying how I really need to make it up to wine country more often than I do, and this sounded like the perfect excuse! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-038.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11171\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, I saw that the esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> would be teaching a \u003cem>Regional Tour of Italy: The Veneto\u003c/em> with this mouth-watering menu: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\tWarm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\u003cbr>\n•\tCrab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\u003cbr>\n•\tPork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\u003cbr>\n•\tBlood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, let's recap. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tWeekend getaway in Sonoma. (Check)\u003cbr>\n2)\tAdorable B&B. (Check)\u003cbr>\n3)\tCooking class with a culinary legend. (Check)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right. Sign me up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-009.jpg\" alt=\"Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\" title=\"Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11170\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cooking class at Ramekins with Joyce Goldstein\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since this was a demonstration class, there was no actual hands-on cooking by us students, however, there was plenty of Q&A, discussion, and of course, tasting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-138.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\" title=\"Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11173\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joyce was full of knowledge about Italian cuisine, tips and tricks when preparing the dishes on our own, and stories. As we nibbled on succulent seared scallops and gorgeous chanterelle mushrooms, she lectured us on proper and humane tomato care (\u003cem>\"once you refrigerate a tomato, you commit murder\"\u003c/em>), gave us tips on how to select a good salad dressing-quality \u003ca href=\"http://www.planetorganics.com/san-giuliano-alghero-balsamic-vinegar.html\">balsamic vinegar\u003c/a> (\u003cem>\"if the first ingredient is 'caramel' or 'vinegar', put it down; look for 'grape must' as a primary ingredient\"\u003c/em>), and warned us against overcooking the scallops (\u003cem>\"they should be quivering in the middle\"\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-162.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\" title=\"Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11174\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we tucked into the brightly flavored risotto made with sweet crab meat, fennel, and a gremolata of meyer lemon zest, parsley and garlic, we learned that the Venetians actually prefer their risotto on the soupy side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of Venetians, I asked Joyce, why the Veneto? She replied that while this meal actually borrows from various regions of Italy, she originally wanted to highlight Venice because of its interesting culinary history born from its unique location. One of the first cities in the spice trade, the food of the Veneto was influenced by goods traded by merchants traveling in and out of the port (like Marco Polo, Venice's most famous traveler). The food and drink of the Veneto includes an abundance of seafood, game meat (an influence of Yugoslavia), artichokes, radicchio, rice (rather than pasta), lighter wines, and grappa. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-170.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Stew with Chestnuts\" title=\"Pork Stew with Chestnuts\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11175\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork Stew with Chestnuts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this edification got me hungry. Good thing the pork stew was ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally prepared with wild boar, Joyce first had this dish at a farro farm in Abruzzo. Farro was the earliest wheat that was cultivated in Europe. It tastes like barley, is sweet and hazelnutty, and puffs up when it is cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a few adaptations made, our stew featured pork shoulder rather than boar, and a delicious pumpkin polenta rather than farro. The pork stew was rich and hearty, slow simmered with red wine (Pinot Noir and Valpolicella), aromatics, sage, and warm spices (juniper berries, cloves, and cinnamon). It also contained chestnuts, which added a superb sweetness and richness to the stew. They were delicious, and I don't usually even like chestnuts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used vacuum-packed cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.ponthiersa.com/en-GB/gms_marrons_vide.php\">chestnuts\u003c/a>, but if you're shelling fresh ones, Joyce let us in on a little secret she discovered to save your hands, and time. Cut an \"X\" on the flat side of the chestnuts, cutting through to the brown skin, then microwave them for a bit. The hard outer shell and bitter inner skin should easily come off afterward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-172.jpg\" alt=\"Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\" title=\"Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11176\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and let's not forget the polenta. The pumpkin polenta was heavenly. Granted, I may be biased, since as you may already know, I am a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/07/29/thai-curry-and-talking-to-strangers/\">pumpkin\u003c/a>/\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/20/butternut-squash-mac-and-cheese-with-sage-and-gingersnap-pecan-crust/\">butternut squash\u003c/a>/\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/14/sweet-potato-gratin/\">sweet potato\u003c/a> freak. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really, what is there not to love about this savory-sweet, rich combination of pumpkin, cornmeal, and parmesan cheese? Other than being utterly delicious, polenta is also pretty forgiving. Unlike risotto, which needs to hit the table as soon as it's ready, \u003cem>\"Polenta, you can baby,\"\u003c/em> as Joyce puts it. (Brands recommended for polenta: \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.granzellas.com/Products/Golden-Pheasant-Polenta__10.aspx\">Gold Pheasant\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, a great trick we learned to avoid lumps in it was to start with the polenta in \u003cstrong>cold water\u003c/strong> rather than streaming it into boiling water like most recipes call for. Brilliant. Why didn’t I think of that before? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-078.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11172\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, laying lattice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for my favorite part…the course that clinched it when I signed up for this class -- the \u003cstrong>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/strong>, which needless to say, did not disappoint. It was fragrant, perfumed by the gorgeous blood oranges and Grand Marnier (two of my favorite ingredients of all time), and had a perfectly buttery, flaky crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Joyce so aptly describes, a blood orange tastes different from other oranges, it is really floral, \u003cem>“like an orange mixed with a rose.”\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This tart is adapted from a recipe served at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.vineriacozzi.it/\">Vineria Cozzi\u003c/a> in Bergamo Alta. It is called \u003cem>Crostata di Marmellata delle Suore Trappiste\u003c/em>, a tart filled with jam made by the Trappist nuns. The recipe takes a homemade orange marmalade and binds it with eggs and cornstarch. Fitting. It tastes divine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-192.jpg\" alt=\"Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\" title=\"Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11178\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tricks of the trade when making this:\u003cbr>\n•\tUse a sharp vegetable peeler to remove all the zest from the oranges. It is the quickest way I've ever seen zest removed. After you have all the peel, chop it finely.\u003cbr>\n•\tRemember to discard the bitter pith.\u003cbr>\n•\tBlood oranges are small so you don't need to really segment them, especially since it is all being cooked down anyway for the marmalade. Just chop them up into 1 inch pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than this tart -- which I've been thinking about ever since -- what struck me was a comment that someone made towards the end of the class. She was a woman who was an old fan of Joyce's restaurant, Square One, before it closed in 1996. She was not alone, as it seemed that the class was filled with devout fans. The woman used to come in from Central Valley for a night out at Square One, and wrote in once after being particularly taken by a certain apple tart. Joyce wrote her back (she answered every letter that came in), and said they make it en masse, so the translation may not be perfect, but nonetheless, here was the recipe. It worked beautifully, and this was the first chance the woman had to thank Joyce personally. The room burst into applause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-216.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Inn, apple art\" title=\"Ramekins Inn, apple art\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11180\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Inn, apple art\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story got me thinking about food and how our best memories of particular dishes or meals are inextricably tied to the people who made them special. It is not only about the food, but about the stories and the shared experience. Maybe that is why places like Ramekins make me so happy. Places that get it. They get the love of food (it's written on the apple-adorned walls and asparagus-lined railing), and they get that people are looking to share that experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Ramekins-02.20.10-239.jpg\" alt=\"Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\" title=\"Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11182\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ramekins Inn, asparagus railing\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blood Orange Marmalade Tart (Crostata di marmellata all’arancia)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe and notes courtesy of Joyce Goldstein, from \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/limysp-20/detail/0520243773\">Perfect Pairings\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jam filled lattice-topped tarts are popular all over Italy. In Rome they prefer cherry jam. Some tarts are prepared with apricot or berry preserves. At the Vineria Cozzi in Bergamo Alta they serve a crostata di marmellata delle Suore Trappiste, filled with jam made by the Trappist nuns. This recipe takes a home made orange marmalade and binds it with eggs and cornstarch. Blood oranges, now available at our markets, would add their special perfume and color, to the tart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta Frolla for two crusts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups all purpose flour\u003cbr>\npinch salt\u003cbr>\n4 to 6 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n12 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 to 5 tablespoons ice water, as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 large navel oranges or 5 to 6 blood oranges\u003cbr>\n1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>\njuice of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup water\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons cornstarch\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n3 eggs\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Crust:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the flour and salt and sugar in the container of a food processor or mixing bowl. Cut in the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Gradually beat in the ice water. Turn dough out onto work surface and form into 2 flattened discs, one slightly larger than the other. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least an hour.\u003cbr>\n2. Roll out the large disc between very lightly floured sheets of baker’s parchment until you have a circle that is 13 inches in diameter. Carefully ease it into a 9 inch pie plate or 10 inch tart tin with a removable bottom. Chill the crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Filling\u003c/strong>:\u003cbr>\n1. Wash and dry the oranges. With a sharp peeler carefully remove all of the zest from all 3 oranges and chop finely. Separate the oranges into segments and put them in a medium saucepan along with the chopped zest, 1/3 cup sugar, the lemon juice and the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring form time to time. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. The filling can be made a day ahead of time and left at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.\u003cbr>\n3. Place remaining sugar in a mixing bowl with the cornstarch and mix with a fork. Add the butter and beat until smooth and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Fold in the cooled marmalade and the Grand Marnier.\u003cbr>\n4. Pour the filling into the pie crust. Roll out the remaining pastry between lightly floured sheets of baker's parchment into a rectangle about 9 by 12 inches. Remove the top piece of parchment and cut into strips with a pastry wheel. Moisten the edge of the crust with a bit of water and then arrange the strips like a lattice on top of the filling.\u003cbr>\n5. Bake 10 minutes then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F and continue to bake the tart for 30 to 40 minutes or until filling is set and crust is slightly colored.\u003cbr>\n6. Cool and serve with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More Recipes Courtesy of Joyce Goldstein:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/warm-scallop-and-mushroom-salad/\">Warm Scallop and Mushroom Salad, from \u003cem>Antipasti: Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/risotto-with-crab-fennel-and-meyer-lemon-gremolata/%20\">Crab and Fennel Risotto with Meyer Lemon Gremolata, adapted from \u003cem>Back to Square One\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/pork-stew-pumpkin-polenta/\">Pork with Chestnuts served with Pumpkin Polenta, from \u003cem>Italian Slow and Savory\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Upcoming classes at Ramekins that caught my eye:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>03/25/10, \u003cem>An Evening of Food and Wine Pairin\u003c/em>g (Demo, $85) with Joyce and her son, Evan Goldstein, a James Beard Award-winning master sommelier and career wine educator. Way to keep it in the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>04/03/10, \u003cem>Top Five Desserts\u003c/em> (Hands-on, $85) with Joy Wilson, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.joythebaker.com/blog/\">Joy the Baker\u003c/a>. Small world, I ran into Joy as we were leaving Ramekins…thought I had smelled something good baking downstairs! She's returning to teach another class in April. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>04/29/10, \u003cem>Perbacco Restaurant\u003c/em> (Demo, $75) with Staffan Terje, chef/owner of Perbacco. Chef Terje will be showcasing fresh seasonal ingredients and cooking techniques that are the basis of haute cuisine. Which means, you can expect a haute Italian dinner from one of SF’s finest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ramekins.com/\">Ramekins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n450 West Spain Street\u003cbr>\nSonoma, CA 95476\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Ramekins+450+West+Spain+Street+Sonoma,+CA+95476&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=47.972233,56.601563&ie=UTF8&hq=Ramekins&hnear=450+W+Spain+St,+Sonoma,+CA+95476&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(707) 933-0452\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclosure: Cooking class and accommodations provided by Ramekins.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more Joyce, check out \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Check, Please! Bay Area: Season 3: Joyce Goldstein Special\u003c/a>, where she profiles three Bay Area restaurants: Medjool, B44, and Da Flora.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/11168/cooking-class-at-ramekins-with-joyce-goldstein","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_3435","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_3571","bayareabites_356"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. 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