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Making the brew a daily habit may be protective against stroke.","imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/155254835s-5c9a17609df99b042cca9fdd24baa37c311117e7.jpg","width":200,"height":149}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_bayareabites_112409":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_112409","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_112409","name":"Elise Hu, NPR Food","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_111723":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_111723","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_111723","name":"Ina Jaffe, NPR Food","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_108055":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_108055","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_108055","name":"Morgan McCloy, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_97280":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_97280","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_97280","name":"Layla Eplett, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a> ","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_91895":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_91895","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_91895","name":"Eliza Barclay","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_69240":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_69240","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_69240","name":"Elise Hu","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_68592":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_68592","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_68592","name":"Eliza Barclay","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_58472":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_58472","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_58472","name":"Allison Aubrey","isLoading":false},"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_112409":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_112409","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"112409","score":null,"sort":[1475167445000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cup-noodles-turns-45-a-closer-look-at-the-revolutionary-ramen-creation","title":"'Cup Noodles' Turns 45: A Closer Look At The Revolutionary Ramen Creation","publishDate":1475167445,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/09/20160929_me_cup_noodles_turns_45_a_closer_look_at_the_revolutionary_ramen_creation.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cup Noodles, the dorm-room staple that cooks in three minutes, turns 45 this month. There's no better place to celebrate than its very own \u003ca href=\"http://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/english/\">museum\u003c/a> in Yokohama, Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the museum that really honors the creator of instant ramen and Cup Noodles,\" says museum manager Yuya Ichikawa, who leads me on a tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here you'll find a floor-to-ceiling display of every flavor of instant ramen put out since the mid-20th century; a kitchen to prepare fresh ramen noodles; a sprawling assembly line — reservations required — to create your own Cup Noodles concoction to take home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors view a display of Cup Noodles packages from around the world.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112424\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors view a display of Cup Noodles packages from around the world. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, of course, the place is filled with tributes to the Cup Noodles creator — a man named Momofuku Ando.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando first came up with instant ramen noodles while working in a backyard shed in 1958. Before then, ramen noodles couldn't be stored or cooked quickly — only bought fresh and served after a long boil. Ando devoted himself to figuring out how to take cooked noodles and dry them out to preserve them so they could cook almost instantly, on demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112423\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors make their own noodles in the museum's working kitchen.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112423\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors make their own noodles in the museum's working kitchen. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He tried many many methods of drying the ramen, but he could never find anything that worked perfectly well. And then one day he was watching his wife make tempura [battered deep-fried food] and he realized, this is how it can be done,\" Ichikawa explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando's first innovation: To make noodles \"instant,\" they are lightly fried in oil for a few seconds, then dried and packaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112426\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-400x271.jpg\" alt='Cup Noodles — sold in Japan as Cup Noodle (no \"s\").' width=\"400\" height=\"271\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-112426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-400x271.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-800x543.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-768x521.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-1180x800.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-960x651.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cup Noodles -- sold in Japan as Cup Noodle (no \"s\"). \u003ccite>(Chris McGrath/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But ramen really took off with another of Ando's simple but brilliant ideas: selling dried instant noodles in a cup, so you wouldn't have to find a vessel to cook or eat them in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A trip to the United States in the 1960s inspired Ando's cup creation, when he watched people break up his original rectangular blocks of instant ramen to fit into cups for consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voilà! Cup Noodles was born. And released 45 years ago, in September 1971.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando's creation has remained hugely popular. The World Instant Noodles Association counts\u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/en/noodles/market.html\"> 97 billion packages of instant ramen sold globally\u003c/a> in 2015. And Cup Noodles is now available in more than 80 countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112425\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Crowds fill the Cup Noodles Museum in Yokohama, Japan, to decorate their own branded cups before creating personal noodle flavor blends.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112425\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crowds fill the Cup Noodles Museum in Yokohama, Japan, to decorate their own branded cups before creating personal noodle flavor blends. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Cup Noodles Museum has a million visitors a year and is so packed, it's hard to turn around without colliding into a devotee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're university students, so quite devoted,\" says Canadian tourist Kayla Whitehead, visiting with a college friend. \"I don't really get too creative. Just the sauce packet and the water, it's all I do. All about ease of use.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve its global customers, Nissin makes culturally specific adaptations, like different flavors for different national palates. Even the length of noodle changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An example: In Asia,\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/24/392430233/koreans-have-an-insatiable-appetite-for-watching-strangers-binge-eat\"> loudly slurping your noodles\u003c/a> is considered a compliment to the chef. Not so much in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Americans don't like to slurp their noodles. So they make the length of the noodles for the American version smaller so they don't have to suck it up,\" says Ichikawa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2625px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2.jpg\" alt=\"Customers crowd the museum gift shop.\" width=\"2625\" height=\"1748\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112410\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2.jpg 2625w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2625px) 100vw, 2625px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers crowd the museum gift shop. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cup Noodles' popularity is not in question. But sodium-loaded and lightly fried, this stuff isn't exactly the healthiest. Even the Cup Noodles Museum manager recommends more balance in your diet. But he did mention a little trivia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The founder of our company, he ate chicken ramen every day of his life,\" Ichikawa said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On that Cup Noodles-a-day diet, Momofuku Ando lived to be 96.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jake Adelstein contributed to this story.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Today instant ramen is consumed in at least 80 countries — with culturally specific adaptations. The U.S., for instance, gets shorter noodles, because Americans don't slurp them up like the Japanese.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1475167445,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":689},"headData":{"title":"'Cup Noodles' Turns 45: A Closer Look At The Revolutionary Ramen Creation | KQED","description":"Today instant ramen is consumed in at least 80 countries — with culturally specific adaptations. The U.S., for instance, gets shorter noodles, because Americans don't slurp them up like the Japanese.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"112409 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=112409","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/29/cup-noodles-turns-45-a-closer-look-at-the-revolutionary-ramen-creation/","disqusTitle":"'Cup Noodles' Turns 45: A Closer Look At The Revolutionary Ramen Creation","nprImageCredit":"Elise Hu","nprByline":"Elise Hu, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"NPR","nprStoryId":"495807462","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=495807462&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/09/29/495807462/cup-noodles-turns-45-a-closer-look-at-the-revolutionary-ramen-creation?ft=nprml&f=495807462","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:46:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 29 Sep 2016 04:48:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:46:15 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/09/20160929_me_cup_noodles_turns_45_a_closer_look_at_the_revolutionary_ramen_creation.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=223&p=3&story=495807462&t=progseg&e=495882392&seg=17&ft=nprml&f=495807462","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1495882795-fe1f13.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=223&p=3&story=495807462&t=progseg&e=495882392&seg=17&ft=nprml&f=495807462","path":"/bayareabites/112409/cup-noodles-turns-45-a-closer-look-at-the-revolutionary-ramen-creation","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/09/20160929_me_cup_noodles_turns_45_a_closer_look_at_the_revolutionary_ramen_creation.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=223&p=3&story=495807462&t=progseg&e=495882392&seg=17&ft=nprml&f=495807462","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/09/20160929_me_cup_noodles_turns_45_a_closer_look_at_the_revolutionary_ramen_creation.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cup Noodles, the dorm-room staple that cooks in three minutes, turns 45 this month. There's no better place to celebrate than its very own \u003ca href=\"http://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/english/\">museum\u003c/a> in Yokohama, Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the museum that really honors the creator of instant ramen and Cup Noodles,\" says museum manager Yuya Ichikawa, who leads me on a tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here you'll find a floor-to-ceiling display of every flavor of instant ramen put out since the mid-20th century; a kitchen to prepare fresh ramen noodles; a sprawling assembly line — reservations required — to create your own Cup Noodles concoction to take home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors view a display of Cup Noodles packages from around the world.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112424\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07701edit_custom-0bc1fa66f0ccb2a016488c1a785fd27818aef1a7-s1600-c85-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors view a display of Cup Noodles packages from around the world. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, of course, the place is filled with tributes to the Cup Noodles creator — a man named Momofuku Ando.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando first came up with instant ramen noodles while working in a backyard shed in 1958. Before then, ramen noodles couldn't be stored or cooked quickly — only bought fresh and served after a long boil. Ando devoted himself to figuring out how to take cooked noodles and dry them out to preserve them so they could cook almost instantly, on demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112423\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors make their own noodles in the museum's working kitchen.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112423\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07709edit_custom-b59d848db41507b7625a38eafcb34564df46affb-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors make their own noodles in the museum's working kitchen. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He tried many many methods of drying the ramen, but he could never find anything that worked perfectly well. And then one day he was watching his wife make tempura [battered deep-fried food] and he realized, this is how it can be done,\" Ichikawa explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando's first innovation: To make noodles \"instant,\" they are lightly fried in oil for a few seconds, then dried and packaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112426\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-400x271.jpg\" alt='Cup Noodles — sold in Japan as Cup Noodle (no \"s\").' width=\"400\" height=\"271\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-112426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-400x271.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-800x543.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-768x521.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-1180x800.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200-960x651.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/gettyimages-487753176_custom-34ea006154fd119858619d4523104839c7566e2f-s1200.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cup Noodles -- sold in Japan as Cup Noodle (no \"s\"). \u003ccite>(Chris McGrath/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But ramen really took off with another of Ando's simple but brilliant ideas: selling dried instant noodles in a cup, so you wouldn't have to find a vessel to cook or eat them in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A trip to the United States in the 1960s inspired Ando's cup creation, when he watched people break up his original rectangular blocks of instant ramen to fit into cups for consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voilà! Cup Noodles was born. And released 45 years ago, in September 1971.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ando's creation has remained hugely popular. The World Instant Noodles Association counts\u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/en/noodles/market.html\"> 97 billion packages of instant ramen sold globally\u003c/a> in 2015. And Cup Noodles is now available in more than 80 countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112425\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Crowds fill the Cup Noodles Museum in Yokohama, Japan, to decorate their own branded cups before creating personal noodle flavor blends.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112425\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07708edit_custom-94c9e767a9820f7ee2db95aedd3f3ea45911e012-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crowds fill the Cup Noodles Museum in Yokohama, Japan, to decorate their own branded cups before creating personal noodle flavor blends. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Cup Noodles Museum has a million visitors a year and is so packed, it's hard to turn around without colliding into a devotee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're university students, so quite devoted,\" says Canadian tourist Kayla Whitehead, visiting with a college friend. \"I don't really get too creative. Just the sauce packet and the water, it's all I do. All about ease of use.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve its global customers, Nissin makes culturally specific adaptations, like different flavors for different national palates. Even the length of noodle changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An example: In Asia,\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/24/392430233/koreans-have-an-insatiable-appetite-for-watching-strangers-binge-eat\"> loudly slurping your noodles\u003c/a> is considered a compliment to the chef. Not so much in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Americans don't like to slurp their noodles. So they make the length of the noodles for the American version smaller so they don't have to suck it up,\" says Ichikawa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2625px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2.jpg\" alt=\"Customers crowd the museum gift shop.\" width=\"2625\" height=\"1748\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112410\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2.jpg 2625w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/09/dsc07694edit_custom-c1efa933c296f875ca97adf07a74867cbb8b6f7c-2-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2625px) 100vw, 2625px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers crowd the museum gift shop. \u003ccite>(Elise Hu/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cup Noodles' popularity is not in question. But sodium-loaded and lightly fried, this stuff isn't exactly the healthiest. Even the Cup Noodles Museum manager recommends more balance in your diet. But he did mention a little trivia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The founder of our company, he ate chicken ramen every day of his life,\" Ichikawa said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On that Cup Noodles-a-day diet, Momofuku Ando lived to be 96.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jake Adelstein contributed to this story.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/112409/cup-noodles-turns-45-a-closer-look-at-the-revolutionary-ramen-creation","authors":["byline_bayareabites_112409"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084"],"tags":["bayareabites_15626","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_4042"],"featImg":"bayareabites_112421","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_111723":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_111723","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"111723","score":null,"sort":[1472492462000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"japans-centuries-old-tradition-of-making-soba-noodles","title":"Japan's Centuries-Old Tradition Of Making Soba Noodles","publishDate":1472492462,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/08/20160828_atc_japans_centuries-old_tradition_of_making_soba_noodles.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in Japan, the buckwheat noodles known as soba are a staple. Nowhere more so than in the mountains of the southern island of \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=shikoku&tbm=isch&imgil=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%253A%253BNuDMrxsCnyJ_bM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.tourismshikoku.org%25252Fdiscover%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%253A%252CNuDMrxsCnyJ_bM%252C_&usg=__qFMDY31aztZiFo0wyP6U_u0MmZM%3D&biw=1184&bih=582&ved=0ahUKEwjh0vG91djOAhUI6x4KHR3qBj0QyjcIOA&ei=Gtm8V-HdHYjWe53Um-gD#imgrc=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%3A\">Shikoku\u003c/a>. The soil there is poor. Buckwheat is one of the few crops that will grow. So the region has been known for its soba for centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reiko Tsuzuki, 70, has been carrying on the tradition of soba-making for more than four decades. She runs a small restaurant — \u003ca href=\"http://www.iyajiman.com/index.html\">Tsuzuki Soba House\u003c/a> — in a little village in the remote mountains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She runs the place by herself: preparing and serving the food and pouring endless cups of tea from an enormous brass kettle. As if that weren't enough, she also serenades her guests with a traditional song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a song sung by women as they grind the buckwheat for soba by hand. Roughly translated, it goes, \"Don't be mean to your daughter-in-law,\" the one who would traditionally be stuck with this tedious job, because \"someday your daughter will marry and become a daughter-in-law herself.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The place where Tsuzuki makes soba is in a building next door to the restaurant. It's a bright, airy kitchen, where modern stainless steel tables share space with traditional straw tatami mats. And it's large enough for Tsuzuki to teach her technique to students — ordinary people who want to be able to make soba at home. She's determined to preserve and pass on soba-making and other Iya Valley traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111725\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c.jpg\" alt=\"Soba noodles served at Tsuzuki Soba House.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111725\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soba noodles served at Tsuzuki Soba House. \u003ccite>(Ina Jaffe/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tsuzuki demonstrates the process. First, she kneels on the tatami mats before an old-fashioned stone grinder. She's a tiny woman, not even 5 feet tall, but she can turn the grinding stone with one hand while brushing in buckwheat kernels with the other. The rhythm is hypnotic. But it's so much effort for so little flour. That's why, these days, Tsuzuki uses mostly machine-ground buckwheat. But she always adds a little of the hand-ground stuff. She says it just tastes better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buckwheat flour goes into a bowl. Then she adds some water. And that's it, the entire recipe for soba, at least the way Tsuzuki makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She kneads the dough into a ball and then rolls it out until it's paper thin. She gently folds it into layers, then takes a knife and slices it into delicate strands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She used to make thicker noodles, she says, but it's not the fashion anymore. She has to change with the times, in order to keep the old traditions alive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the remote mountains of the Japanese island of Shikoku, an old woman makes soba noodles by hand from locally grown buckwheat. It's ancient technique that is adapting to modern times.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1472492462,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":465},"headData":{"title":"Japan's Centuries-Old Tradition Of Making Soba Noodles | KQED","description":"In the remote mountains of the Japanese island of Shikoku, an old woman makes soba noodles by hand from locally grown buckwheat. It's ancient technique that is adapting to modern times.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"111723 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=111723","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/08/29/japans-centuries-old-tradition-of-making-soba-noodles/","disqusTitle":"Japan's Centuries-Old Tradition Of Making Soba Noodles","source":"Asian Food","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/asian-food-and-drink/","nprImageCredit":"Ina Jaffe","nprByline":"Ina Jaffe, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"NPR","nprStoryId":"489787912","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=489787912&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/28/489787912/japans-centuries-old-tradition-of-making-soba-noodles?ft=nprml&f=489787912","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 29 Aug 2016 10:10:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 28 Aug 2016 17:10:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 29 Aug 2016 10:10:52 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/08/20160828_atc_japans_centuries-old_tradition_of_making_soba_noodles.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=183&p=2&story=489787912&t=progseg&e=491726812&seg=6&ft=nprml&f=489787912","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1491726897-c477d6.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=183&p=2&story=489787912&t=progseg&e=491726812&seg=6&ft=nprml&f=489787912","path":"/bayareabites/111723/japans-centuries-old-tradition-of-making-soba-noodles","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/08/20160828_atc_japans_centuries-old_tradition_of_making_soba_noodles.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=183&p=2&story=489787912&t=progseg&e=491726812&seg=6&ft=nprml&f=489787912","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/08/20160828_atc_japans_centuries-old_tradition_of_making_soba_noodles.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in Japan, the buckwheat noodles known as soba are a staple. Nowhere more so than in the mountains of the southern island of \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=shikoku&tbm=isch&imgil=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%253A%253BNuDMrxsCnyJ_bM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.tourismshikoku.org%25252Fdiscover%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%253A%252CNuDMrxsCnyJ_bM%252C_&usg=__qFMDY31aztZiFo0wyP6U_u0MmZM%3D&biw=1184&bih=582&ved=0ahUKEwjh0vG91djOAhUI6x4KHR3qBj0QyjcIOA&ei=Gtm8V-HdHYjWe53Um-gD#imgrc=AT8TwHQ7fToa_M%3A\">Shikoku\u003c/a>. The soil there is poor. Buckwheat is one of the few crops that will grow. So the region has been known for its soba for centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reiko Tsuzuki, 70, has been carrying on the tradition of soba-making for more than four decades. She runs a small restaurant — \u003ca href=\"http://www.iyajiman.com/index.html\">Tsuzuki Soba House\u003c/a> — in a little village in the remote mountains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She runs the place by herself: preparing and serving the food and pouring endless cups of tea from an enormous brass kettle. As if that weren't enough, she also serenades her guests with a traditional song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a song sung by women as they grind the buckwheat for soba by hand. Roughly translated, it goes, \"Don't be mean to your daughter-in-law,\" the one who would traditionally be stuck with this tedious job, because \"someday your daughter will marry and become a daughter-in-law herself.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The place where Tsuzuki makes soba is in a building next door to the restaurant. It's a bright, airy kitchen, where modern stainless steel tables share space with traditional straw tatami mats. And it's large enough for Tsuzuki to teach her technique to students — ordinary people who want to be able to make soba at home. She's determined to preserve and pass on soba-making and other Iya Valley traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111725\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c.jpg\" alt=\"Soba noodles served at Tsuzuki Soba House.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111725\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/soba1_enl-c645a36e8a61f6ee696ad507b08095c853d7d56c-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soba noodles served at Tsuzuki Soba House. \u003ccite>(Ina Jaffe/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tsuzuki demonstrates the process. First, she kneels on the tatami mats before an old-fashioned stone grinder. She's a tiny woman, not even 5 feet tall, but she can turn the grinding stone with one hand while brushing in buckwheat kernels with the other. The rhythm is hypnotic. But it's so much effort for so little flour. That's why, these days, Tsuzuki uses mostly machine-ground buckwheat. But she always adds a little of the hand-ground stuff. She says it just tastes better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buckwheat flour goes into a bowl. Then she adds some water. And that's it, the entire recipe for soba, at least the way Tsuzuki makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She kneads the dough into a ball and then rolls it out until it's paper thin. She gently folds it into layers, then takes a knife and slices it into delicate strands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She used to make thicker noodles, she says, but it's not the fashion anymore. She has to change with the times, in order to keep the old traditions alive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/111723/japans-centuries-old-tradition-of-making-soba-noodles","authors":["byline_bayareabites_111723"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_989","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_8633","bayareabites_2538"],"featImg":"bayareabites_111724","label":"source_bayareabites_111723"},"bayareabites_108055":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_108055","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"108055","score":null,"sort":[1459196053000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"artisanal-plastic-japans-fake-food-is-a-real-art","title":"Artisanal Plastic: Japan's Fake Food Is A Real Art","publishDate":1459196053,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti.jpg\" alt=\"spagetti food art\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108072\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the windows of restaurants, grocers and department stores, they beckon: Perfectly swirled ice cream in a cone, elaborately whipped cakes topped with red strawberries, a glistening piece of raw fish atop rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're meant to whet your appetite, but don't bite them: These are plastic display foods, and they're ubiquitous in Japan — designed to advertise the foods available for purchase inside. They're also big business: A fake mug of beer, for instance, can sell for U.S. $150, says photographer Norbert Schoerner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schoerner first encountered Japan's intricate display foods during his first trip to Japan in the 1990s. \"I not only found it quite odd and surreal, but it also sort of triggered a fascination with the idea of the process and the whole culture that sits behind that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think of these display foods as \"artisanal plastic\" — that pineapple or pasta dish in polyvinyl chloride was likely hand-crafted by a highly trained artist. \"There's quite an intricate craftsmanship that goes into that,\" Schoerner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His new book, \u003cem>Nearly Eternal\u003c/em>, co-authored with art director Steve Nakamura, visually explores the questions of reality versus artifice such fake foods raise. \"In a way, the book is less about food than about how we formulate our desire,\" he tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Actually, Schoerner and Nakamura didn't so much author the book as create it: There are no words, save for this inscription from the Bible that opens the book — it's designed to \"point people in the right direction,\" Schoerner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"All man's efforts are for his mouth, yet his appetite is never satisfied\" — Ecclesiastes 6:7\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I asked Schoerner for insights into some of the images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"egg art\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108070\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upon first glance, I assumed this image was set up for the shoot — with someone delicately gripping an egg yolk in between chopsticks. Come to find out, \"this piece was not custom made for the shoot. The piece actually exists as a display food,\" Schoerner told me. It's all one plastic piece.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's meant to mimic the raw eggs that are often dropped into soup ramens and hot broths in Japan to produce a slightly poached egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921.jpg\" alt=\"Praying Mantis\" width=\"1730\" height=\"1298\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921.jpg 1730w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1730px) 100vw, 1730px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This image, the book's cover art, is \"a very powerful image, because the fruit doesn't look artificial at all,\" he says — until you touch it. \"If you actually pick one up, you realize how artificial they are.\" The praying mantis, on the other hand, looks fake, but it's real. \"You'd think it'd be quite hard to wrangle, but it was really, really patient — the praying mantis. The lighting setup and placing the food was more complicated than getting the praying mantis.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast.jpg\" alt=\"steak-toast\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108073\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Both [the steak and the toast], I'd say, are classics within the environment of display foods,\" Schoerner says. \"What's important about the image itself is mainly the contrast between those two elements, because they represent very different spheres of a culinary context. What it comes down to is that the toast and butter looks really amazing and really quite tasty, whereas the meat itself, it's certainly retained its artificial quality in the image.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That contrast between what seems real and fake creates tension in the image, Schoerner says. \"We showed it to a few people and they go, 'Yeah, what's that? A picture of a piece of toast? What's the big deal?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee.jpg\" alt=\"coffee\" width=\"600\" height=\"794\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108069\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee-400x529.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The product [coffee cup and cream] itself is probably one of the first ones I really noticed,\" while traveling in Japan, he says. \"I don't really know why the culture has created surreal aspects for [the coffee cup product and the pasta product (at top)] because with all the other display foods, they strive for realism. ... Within the book, they very much function as a couple of marker points\" to highlight that hey, this is fake food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple.jpg\" alt=\"apple\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I hate to tell you, that one is real,\" Schoerner says. In Japan, he says, there's a side culture — \"championships and display shows — where people who make the display foods or people who do it as a hobby compare their craft. And within that culture, we've come across a few people who started to create rotten food. I mean, you can find tomatoes with ants crawling all over them, and moldy bananas or whatnot. So it's very odd. There is potential oxymoron contained in this practice [of creating rotten plastic].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry.jpg\" alt=\"nails-strawberry\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108071\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The image, he says, \"plays with the notion of beauty, meaning this idea of a beauty ad with the fingernails. There's hardly any retouching in this picture, so the fingernails really look like that. They've got this lacquered sort of chrome-y texture to them. We really liked the contrast with the strawberry. ... It looks quite fake, I think.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake.jpg\" alt=\"cake\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108068\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the only [plastic food] that we weren't allowed to take away [from the manufacturer]. So we shot that one at the factory. It's too heavy and too expensive and too fragile. I can't remember what the exact price was, but I think you're looking at about $500 of cake. \" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Intricately crafted replicas of all sorts of dishes and drink — cakes, sushi and even beer — are ubiquitous window displays in Japan. A new book visually explores the culture of \u003cem>Nearly Eternal\u003c/em> food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1459196053,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":872},"headData":{"title":"Artisanal Plastic: Japan's Fake Food Is A Real Art | KQED","description":"Intricately crafted replicas of all sorts of dishes and drink — cakes, sushi and even beer — are ubiquitous window displays in Japan. A new book visually explores the culture of Nearly Eternal food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"108055 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=108055","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/28/artisanal-plastic-japans-fake-food-is-a-real-art/","disqusTitle":"Artisanal Plastic: Japan's Fake Food Is A Real Art","nprByline":"Morgan McCloy, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Norbert Schoerner and Steve Nakamura","nprStoryId":"468622469","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=468622469&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/25/468622469/artisanal-plastic-japans-fake-food-is-a-real-art?ft=nprml&f=468622469","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 25 Mar 2016 18:17:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 25 Mar 2016 07:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 25 Mar 2016 18:17:55 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/108055/artisanal-plastic-japans-fake-food-is-a-real-art","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti.jpg\" alt=\"spagetti food art\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108072\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/spagetti-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the windows of restaurants, grocers and department stores, they beckon: Perfectly swirled ice cream in a cone, elaborately whipped cakes topped with red strawberries, a glistening piece of raw fish atop rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're meant to whet your appetite, but don't bite them: These are plastic display foods, and they're ubiquitous in Japan — designed to advertise the foods available for purchase inside. They're also big business: A fake mug of beer, for instance, can sell for U.S. $150, says photographer Norbert Schoerner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schoerner first encountered Japan's intricate display foods during his first trip to Japan in the 1990s. \"I not only found it quite odd and surreal, but it also sort of triggered a fascination with the idea of the process and the whole culture that sits behind that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think of these display foods as \"artisanal plastic\" — that pineapple or pasta dish in polyvinyl chloride was likely hand-crafted by a highly trained artist. \"There's quite an intricate craftsmanship that goes into that,\" Schoerner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His new book, \u003cem>Nearly Eternal\u003c/em>, co-authored with art director Steve Nakamura, visually explores the questions of reality versus artifice such fake foods raise. \"In a way, the book is less about food than about how we formulate our desire,\" he tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Actually, Schoerner and Nakamura didn't so much author the book as create it: There are no words, save for this inscription from the Bible that opens the book — it's designed to \"point people in the right direction,\" Schoerner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"All man's efforts are for his mouth, yet his appetite is never satisfied\" — Ecclesiastes 6:7\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I asked Schoerner for insights into some of the images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"egg art\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108070\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/eggs-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upon first glance, I assumed this image was set up for the shoot — with someone delicately gripping an egg yolk in between chopsticks. Come to find out, \"this piece was not custom made for the shoot. The piece actually exists as a display food,\" Schoerner told me. It's all one plastic piece.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's meant to mimic the raw eggs that are often dropped into soup ramens and hot broths in Japan to produce a slightly poached egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921.jpg\" alt=\"Praying Mantis\" width=\"1730\" height=\"1298\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921.jpg 1730w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/shot07_088_edited-7b1ddab972405fad5893b87852057a07cfb76921-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1730px) 100vw, 1730px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This image, the book's cover art, is \"a very powerful image, because the fruit doesn't look artificial at all,\" he says — until you touch it. \"If you actually pick one up, you realize how artificial they are.\" The praying mantis, on the other hand, looks fake, but it's real. \"You'd think it'd be quite hard to wrangle, but it was really, really patient — the praying mantis. The lighting setup and placing the food was more complicated than getting the praying mantis.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast.jpg\" alt=\"steak-toast\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108073\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/steak-toast-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Both [the steak and the toast], I'd say, are classics within the environment of display foods,\" Schoerner says. \"What's important about the image itself is mainly the contrast between those two elements, because they represent very different spheres of a culinary context. What it comes down to is that the toast and butter looks really amazing and really quite tasty, whereas the meat itself, it's certainly retained its artificial quality in the image.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That contrast between what seems real and fake creates tension in the image, Schoerner says. \"We showed it to a few people and they go, 'Yeah, what's that? A picture of a piece of toast? What's the big deal?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee.jpg\" alt=\"coffee\" width=\"600\" height=\"794\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108069\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/coffee-400x529.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The product [coffee cup and cream] itself is probably one of the first ones I really noticed,\" while traveling in Japan, he says. \"I don't really know why the culture has created surreal aspects for [the coffee cup product and the pasta product (at top)] because with all the other display foods, they strive for realism. ... Within the book, they very much function as a couple of marker points\" to highlight that hey, this is fake food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple.jpg\" alt=\"apple\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/apple-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I hate to tell you, that one is real,\" Schoerner says. In Japan, he says, there's a side culture — \"championships and display shows — where people who make the display foods or people who do it as a hobby compare their craft. And within that culture, we've come across a few people who started to create rotten food. I mean, you can find tomatoes with ants crawling all over them, and moldy bananas or whatnot. So it's very odd. There is potential oxymoron contained in this practice [of creating rotten plastic].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry.jpg\" alt=\"nails-strawberry\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108071\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nails-strawberry-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The image, he says, \"plays with the notion of beauty, meaning this idea of a beauty ad with the fingernails. There's hardly any retouching in this picture, so the fingernails really look like that. They've got this lacquered sort of chrome-y texture to them. We really liked the contrast with the strawberry. ... It looks quite fake, I think.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake.jpg\" alt=\"cake\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108068\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cake-400x299.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the only [plastic food] that we weren't allowed to take away [from the manufacturer]. So we shot that one at the factory. It's too heavy and too expensive and too fragile. I can't remember what the exact price was, but I think you're looking at about $500 of cake. \" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/108055/artisanal-plastic-japans-fake-food-is-a-real-art","authors":["byline_bayareabites_108055"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028"],"tags":["bayareabites_14780","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_15376","bayareabites_15375"],"featImg":"bayareabites_108070","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_97280":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_97280","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"97280","score":null,"sort":[1435081490000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup","title":"In The Japanese Tea Ceremony, Politics Are Served With Every Cup","publishDate":1435081490,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In the U.S., Tea Party politics refers to a certain strain of Republican conservatism. But in Japan, tea politics are of an altogether different sort: The ritual drinking of this ancient beverage — often thought of as the epitome of Japanese restraint and formality — has long been entwined with issues of power and national identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A thousand years ago, Buddhist monks studying in China brought tea back to Japan. And while the tea ceremony is meant to encourage spiritual contemplation, early on, it became enmeshed with very earthly displays of power. Japan's 15th-century aristocrats and other elites adopted the esoteric practice, holding tea parties during which they would also display rare Chinese objects to convey power and wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Andrew Watsy, a professor of Japanese art history at Princeton University, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/03/18/290857751/japanese-tea-ritual-turned-15th-century-tupperware-into-art\">explained to NPR\u003c/a> in 2014, \"To be politically powerful at this time also meant that you had to show that you had some sort of cultural sophistication as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"https://www.soas.ac.uk/staff/staff86524.php\">Kristin Surak\u003c/a>, a professor of Japanese politics and author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Making-Tea-Japan-Cultural-Nationalism/dp/0804778671/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\">Making Tea, Making Japan\u003c/a>, the tea ceremony is full of contradictions. It's a Zen-like renunciation of the material world — and simultaneously, a place where expensive tea wares convey affluence. It's intended to be a place of equality, but often serves to reinforce power and hierarchies. Although each preparation is meant to be unique, the ritual is the same thing over and over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97287\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 247px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea1.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of Sen Rikyū by Tōhaku Hasegawa. Rikyū was a highly influential tea master in 16th century Japan.\" width=\"247\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97287\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of Sen Rikyū by Tōhaku Hasegawa. Rikyū was a highly influential tea master in 16th century Japan. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sen_no_Rikyu_JPN.jpg\">Tōhaku Hasegawa/via Wikimedia \u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's presented as a universalistic practice open to everyone and pitched as being about \u003cem>wa, kei, sei \u003c/em>and \u003cem>jaku \u003c/em>(harmony, respect, purity and tranquility),\" says Surak, who spent more than a decade in Japan, studying the art of the tea ceremony and observing its subtleties. \"The claim is that everyone in the world can understand those things, and that if everybody sat around and had a bowl of tea, we could create world peace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She adds, \"At the same time, it's also very much particularly, almost exclusively, Japanese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, the\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>ceremony also took on a political dimension, an aspect that became pronounced in the late 16th century. During this tumultuous time of civil war, two leading generals — Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi — unified much of Japan. Both used tea ceremonies as a political tool in this process: They awarded tea wares for victories on the battlefield, and the tea room was used as a space for liaising and negotiations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea masters — men who, over years, had mastered the intricate choreography of preparing and serving the tea – wielded great influence. Sen Rikyū was a favored tea master of Nobunaga and later became the second most influential man under Hideyoshi's rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea continued to be steeped in politics and, by the end of the 17th century, elite warriors were expected to be adept in all aspects of the tea ceremony. The ceremony maintained its prominence when Japan opened up to the West in the 1850s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This continued with the rise of capitalism in Japan in the early 20th century. Businessmen became the new rulers of the country, and they used tea ceremonies much like the elites and warriors had before them. Tea was still a way to network and display power — and paradoxically, convey humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Striking, though, is that such powerful men knelt on the floor and served tea themselves, including, for example, the key railroad founders, the shipbuilding magnates, and the leading bankers and politicians. Imagine \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._P._Morgan\">J.P. Morgan\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/biography/rockefellers-john/\">[John D.] Rockefeller\u003c/a> doing something like that!\" says Surak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2.jpg\" alt=\"A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan's Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women. \" width=\"800\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2-400x205.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan's Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women. \u003ccite>(Toyohara Chikanobu/via Wikimedia )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During this same period, the tea ceremony shifted from being a predominantly male practice to one aimed toward women. Beginning in the latter half of the 19th century, under the rule of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.britannica.com/biography/Meiji\">Emperor Mejii\u003c/a>, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women, as the manners gained were considered valuable on the marriage market. The inclusion of women in their customer base was not only financially advantageous for tea masters, it also reinforced their status and prestige within society.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once instrumental in times of war, the tea ceremony was also integral in Japan's redefining itself as a peaceful culture following the end of World War II. It became a type of \u003cem>sogo bunka, \u003c/em>or a \"cultural synthesis\" of the country's traditions. The combination of politics, culture, and tea is still evident in contemporary Japan. Even the country's cultural ambassador to the United Nations, Sen Genshitsu, is a tea master.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/12/404234052/tea-tuesdays-matcha-maker-matcha-maker-make-me-some-tea\">matcha\u003c/a>, the Japanese green tea at the heart of the traditional tea ritual, is gaining popularity internationally, Surak believes it is unlikely that the tea ceremony itself will become diluted like other globalized exports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reading the tea leaves into the future of this traditional ceremony, she says, \"Because the Tea Ceremony, in capital letters, is controlled by very old families with much invested in preserving the practice as it is — and they've done so quite successfully across the centuries — it's unlikely that this formal variant will spawn international styles.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/408297745/tea-tuesday\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> \u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Layla Eplett is a writer based in the Bay Area.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The ritual drinking of this ancient beverage — often thought of as the epitome of Japanese restraint and formality — has long been entwined with issues of power and national identity.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1435081490,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":942},"headData":{"title":"In The Japanese Tea Ceremony, Politics Are Served With Every Cup | KQED","description":"The ritual drinking of this ancient beverage — often thought of as the epitome of Japanese restraint and formality — has long been entwined with issues of power and national identity.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"97280 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=97280","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/06/23/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup/","disqusTitle":"In The Japanese Tea Ceremony, Politics Are Served With Every Cup","nprByline":"Layla Eplett, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a> ","nprStoryId":"414669081","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=414669081&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/23/414669081/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup?ft=nprml&f=414669081","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 23 Jun 2015 12:00:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 23 Jun 2015 11:57:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 23 Jun 2015 12:00:44 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/97280/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the U.S., Tea Party politics refers to a certain strain of Republican conservatism. But in Japan, tea politics are of an altogether different sort: The ritual drinking of this ancient beverage — often thought of as the epitome of Japanese restraint and formality — has long been entwined with issues of power and national identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A thousand years ago, Buddhist monks studying in China brought tea back to Japan. And while the tea ceremony is meant to encourage spiritual contemplation, early on, it became enmeshed with very earthly displays of power. Japan's 15th-century aristocrats and other elites adopted the esoteric practice, holding tea parties during which they would also display rare Chinese objects to convey power and wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Andrew Watsy, a professor of Japanese art history at Princeton University, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/03/18/290857751/japanese-tea-ritual-turned-15th-century-tupperware-into-art\">explained to NPR\u003c/a> in 2014, \"To be politically powerful at this time also meant that you had to show that you had some sort of cultural sophistication as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"https://www.soas.ac.uk/staff/staff86524.php\">Kristin Surak\u003c/a>, a professor of Japanese politics and author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Making-Tea-Japan-Cultural-Nationalism/dp/0804778671/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\">Making Tea, Making Japan\u003c/a>, the tea ceremony is full of contradictions. It's a Zen-like renunciation of the material world — and simultaneously, a place where expensive tea wares convey affluence. It's intended to be a place of equality, but often serves to reinforce power and hierarchies. Although each preparation is meant to be unique, the ritual is the same thing over and over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97287\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 247px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea1.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of Sen Rikyū by Tōhaku Hasegawa. Rikyū was a highly influential tea master in 16th century Japan.\" width=\"247\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97287\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of Sen Rikyū by Tōhaku Hasegawa. Rikyū was a highly influential tea master in 16th century Japan. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sen_no_Rikyu_JPN.jpg\">Tōhaku Hasegawa/via Wikimedia \u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's presented as a universalistic practice open to everyone and pitched as being about \u003cem>wa, kei, sei \u003c/em>and \u003cem>jaku \u003c/em>(harmony, respect, purity and tranquility),\" says Surak, who spent more than a decade in Japan, studying the art of the tea ceremony and observing its subtleties. \"The claim is that everyone in the world can understand those things, and that if everybody sat around and had a bowl of tea, we could create world peace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She adds, \"At the same time, it's also very much particularly, almost exclusively, Japanese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, the\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>ceremony also took on a political dimension, an aspect that became pronounced in the late 16th century. During this tumultuous time of civil war, two leading generals — Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi — unified much of Japan. Both used tea ceremonies as a political tool in this process: They awarded tea wares for victories on the battlefield, and the tea room was used as a space for liaising and negotiations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea masters — men who, over years, had mastered the intricate choreography of preparing and serving the tea – wielded great influence. Sen Rikyū was a favored tea master of Nobunaga and later became the second most influential man under Hideyoshi's rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea continued to be steeped in politics and, by the end of the 17th century, elite warriors were expected to be adept in all aspects of the tea ceremony. The ceremony maintained its prominence when Japan opened up to the West in the 1850s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This continued with the rise of capitalism in Japan in the early 20th century. Businessmen became the new rulers of the country, and they used tea ceremonies much like the elites and warriors had before them. Tea was still a way to network and display power — and paradoxically, convey humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Striking, though, is that such powerful men knelt on the floor and served tea themselves, including, for example, the key railroad founders, the shipbuilding magnates, and the leading bankers and politicians. Imagine \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._P._Morgan\">J.P. Morgan\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/biography/rockefellers-john/\">[John D.] Rockefeller\u003c/a> doing something like that!\" says Surak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2.jpg\" alt=\"A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan's Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women. \" width=\"800\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/japanese-tea2-400x205.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan's Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women. \u003ccite>(Toyohara Chikanobu/via Wikimedia )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During this same period, the tea ceremony shifted from being a predominantly male practice to one aimed toward women. Beginning in the latter half of the 19th century, under the rule of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.britannica.com/biography/Meiji\">Emperor Mejii\u003c/a>, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women, as the manners gained were considered valuable on the marriage market. The inclusion of women in their customer base was not only financially advantageous for tea masters, it also reinforced their status and prestige within society.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once instrumental in times of war, the tea ceremony was also integral in Japan's redefining itself as a peaceful culture following the end of World War II. It became a type of \u003cem>sogo bunka, \u003c/em>or a \"cultural synthesis\" of the country's traditions. The combination of politics, culture, and tea is still evident in contemporary Japan. Even the country's cultural ambassador to the United Nations, Sen Genshitsu, is a tea master.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/12/404234052/tea-tuesdays-matcha-maker-matcha-maker-make-me-some-tea\">matcha\u003c/a>, the Japanese green tea at the heart of the traditional tea ritual, is gaining popularity internationally, Surak believes it is unlikely that the tea ceremony itself will become diluted like other globalized exports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reading the tea leaves into the future of this traditional ceremony, she says, \"Because the Tea Ceremony, in capital letters, is controlled by very old families with much invested in preserving the practice as it is — and they've done so quite successfully across the centuries — it's unlikely that this formal variant will spawn international styles.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/408297745/tea-tuesday\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> \u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Layla Eplett is a writer based in the Bay Area.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/97280/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup","authors":["byline_bayareabites_97280"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_989","bayareabites_14583","bayareabites_165"],"featImg":"bayareabites_97281","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_91895":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_91895","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"91895","score":null,"sort":[1420664431000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","title":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna","publishDate":1420664431,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91897\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna\" target=\"_blank\">by \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348764033/eliza-barclay\" target=\"_blank\">Eliza Barclay\u003c/a>, The Salt at NPR Food (1/7/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, a single 380-pound bluefin tuna \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">sold\u003c/a> for about $37,500 in the first auction of the year at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. That's far below the peak price of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/07/168813383/the-1-76-million-tuna-great-for-publicity-bad-for-the-species\">$1.76 million\u003c/a> that a bluefin went for at the same market in 2013, and this year's price isn't a good indicator of the supply, or population status. But it is a reminder of the unrelenting hunger and willingness to pay top dollar for the fatty pink flesh of this swiftly disappearing wild fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2015 inaugural bluefin is bound for a popular restaurant chain in Japan called Sushi-Zanmai, according to \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">wire reports\u003c/a>. Japan consumes 80 percent of the world's bluefin, and international conservation groups say that demand from the Asian sushi and sashimi industry is mainly to blame for the rapid decline in bluefin populations in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November, the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/news/global-appetite-for-resources-pushing-new-species-to-the-brink\">moved\u003c/a> Pacific bluefin tuna from \"least concern\" to \"vulnerable,\" which means that the fish is now threatened with extinction. It joins the southern bluefin, which is \"critically endangered\" — the third, and most threatened IUCN designation — and the Atlantic bluefin, which is \"endangered,\" the second level. In all cases, overfishing is making it nearly impossible for the spawning stock to rebuild the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, just as many Japanese sushi chefs can't say no to the glistening meat on offer, neither can several American chefs — even though U.S. conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/samuel-fromartz/nobu-feels-the-heat-about_b_213314.html\">media\u003c/a> and the food cognoscenti made a big stink about it in 2009, and in 2010, the Center for Biological Diversity launched the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bluefin-Tuna-Boycott-Join-the-Bluefin-Brigade/107330386001726\">Bluefin Boycott\u003c/a>, which has garnered 80,000 signatures from people who've pledged not to eat the fish or serve it. (Among the signatories were owners of big-name restaurants like Blue Hill, Chez Panisse and Tataki Sushi.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you'll still find tiny morsels of bluefin on tasting menus at glittery sushi restaurants in New York and Los Angeles like Nobu, Morimoto and Masa, and at the Michelin-starred Terra in Napa Valley. It has become a luxury food item — like shark fin or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/03/337162283/taste-for-rare-wild-pangolin-is-driving-the-mammal-to-extinction\">pangolin\u003c/a> in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\" alt=\"The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And we received an invitation in October from Jaleo, one of celebrity chef Jose Andres' Spanish-themed restaurants in Washington, D.C., for a \"Tuna Celebration\" featuring four dishes with bluefin. (The event was postponed; more on it and Andres later.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one clear reason why it's still on menus: \"Bluefin tuna belly is one of the most delicious things in the world,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/bruce-mattel/\">Bruce Mattel\u003c/a>, associate dean of food production at the Culinary Institute of America. But, he says, the decision to serve bluefin is \"largely driven by demographics and customer base\" — in other words, chefs beholden to people spending hundreds of dollars on a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs at top restaurants can't really play dumb about how few bluefin are left in the sea, Mattel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think most [chefs] are aware of the conservation issues,\" Mattel tells us. \"I don't know how you cannot be aware if you have a passion for fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One internationally acclaimed chef who's aware — and gravely concerned — is Japanese sushi master Jiro Ono, subject of the 2011 documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/16/148737187/cameras-follow-worlds-greatest-sushi-chef\">Jiro Dreams of Sushi\u003c/a> and the chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/306227740/obama-gets-a-taste-of-jiros-dream-sushi-in-name-of-diplomacy\">who prepared sushi \u003c/a>for President Obama during a visit to Japan in April 2014. In November, Ono told the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan: \"I can't imagine at all that sushi in the future will be made of the same materials we use today. I told my young men three years ago sushi materials will totally change in five years. And now, such a trend is becoming a reality little by little.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/jiro-ono-warns-raw-deal-overfishing-article-1.1998645\">According to\u003c/a> the \u003cem>New York Daily News\u003c/em>, Ono was referring to his troubles getting high-quality Pacific bluefin, and having to rely on Atlantic bluefin instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattel of the CIA says he won't order that species of tuna anymore, whether he's dining or cooking. And he's troubled and perplexed by chefs' continued use of it, when there are so many other delicious fish they could be cooking instead. \"When you think about the diversity of the oceans, it just baffles that we're so dependent on this species,\" says Mattel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We asked the chefs at Nobu and Terra in Napa Valley to explain why they still serve it, but we got no response to our calls and emails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After repeated requests for an interview, Jose Andres finally sat down with us to explain why he included bluefin on the menu for his Tuna Celebration. The event was postponed last fall, but Andres says he may still host it in May. It will be focused around\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, a coastal Spanish tradition of carving a whole bluefin tuna in front of an audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I wanted to do was celebrate the way of life of the people in the Mediterranean, show the disappearing way of life, the \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em>,\" he says, referring to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhIqzqpE9D8\">elaborate and ancient system of nets\u003c/a> used in small fishing communities. For the celebration, he hopes to bring over fishermen from Galicia, Spain, who catch the fish this way only once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And ultimately, Andres argues, these artisanal fishermen who've been catching Atlantic bluefin their whole lives the same way their grandfathers did, are not to blame for the species' decimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I believe something radical should be done. We should be stopping those [large fishing] fleets following those tunas. If that means also stopping those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> in Spain, Turkey, Italy, I will say so ... but I don't believe those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> catchers are the problem.\" (After our interview, Andres said he might not serve bluefin at the tuna event, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biologicaldiversity.org/about/staff/\">Catherine Kilduff\u003c/a>, staff attorney for the Center for Biological Diversity, agrees that the agencies charged with regulating fishing of bluefin haven't set low enough limits for fishermen big or small to allow the populations to recover. And, she says, the fishermen who catch bluefin can still make a lot of money from them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, this is an environmental issue that's been very responsive in the past to economics,\" she says. \"There are still people who want to buy it; that's why the price is so high. The only way to break that loop is to have people say they're valuable in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, Kilduff says, eating a tuna caught by an artisanal fisherman in a Mediterranean \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> isn't any more defensible than eating one caught by a massive Japanese trawler: \"The argument that there's a way to catch them that makes it sustainable is kind of a red herring.\" (This is why some fishermen have decided instead to try and farm bluefin, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/30/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price/\">reported\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while American consumers are not the primary consumers of bluefin, their influence still matters a lot, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public demand that these fish not go extinct is the only thing that's going to save them,\" says Kilduff. \"Having people go into restaurants [serving it and telling them not to] is probably the most direct way to vote on those issues.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Japanese sushi chefs often can't resist bluefin tuna on offer. Some American chefs can't either, even though conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1420664431,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1301},"headData":{"title":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna | KQED","description":"Japanese sushi chefs often can't resist bluefin tuna on offer. Some American chefs can't either, even though conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"91895 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=91895","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/07/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna/","disqusTitle":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"375366742","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=375366742&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna?ft=3&f=375366742","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 14:28:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 12:01:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 14:27:59 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/91895/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91897\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna\" target=\"_blank\">by \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348764033/eliza-barclay\" target=\"_blank\">Eliza Barclay\u003c/a>, The Salt at NPR Food (1/7/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, a single 380-pound bluefin tuna \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">sold\u003c/a> for about $37,500 in the first auction of the year at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. That's far below the peak price of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/07/168813383/the-1-76-million-tuna-great-for-publicity-bad-for-the-species\">$1.76 million\u003c/a> that a bluefin went for at the same market in 2013, and this year's price isn't a good indicator of the supply, or population status. But it is a reminder of the unrelenting hunger and willingness to pay top dollar for the fatty pink flesh of this swiftly disappearing wild fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2015 inaugural bluefin is bound for a popular restaurant chain in Japan called Sushi-Zanmai, according to \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">wire reports\u003c/a>. Japan consumes 80 percent of the world's bluefin, and international conservation groups say that demand from the Asian sushi and sashimi industry is mainly to blame for the rapid decline in bluefin populations in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November, the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/news/global-appetite-for-resources-pushing-new-species-to-the-brink\">moved\u003c/a> Pacific bluefin tuna from \"least concern\" to \"vulnerable,\" which means that the fish is now threatened with extinction. It joins the southern bluefin, which is \"critically endangered\" — the third, and most threatened IUCN designation — and the Atlantic bluefin, which is \"endangered,\" the second level. In all cases, overfishing is making it nearly impossible for the spawning stock to rebuild the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, just as many Japanese sushi chefs can't say no to the glistening meat on offer, neither can several American chefs — even though U.S. conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/samuel-fromartz/nobu-feels-the-heat-about_b_213314.html\">media\u003c/a> and the food cognoscenti made a big stink about it in 2009, and in 2010, the Center for Biological Diversity launched the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bluefin-Tuna-Boycott-Join-the-Bluefin-Brigade/107330386001726\">Bluefin Boycott\u003c/a>, which has garnered 80,000 signatures from people who've pledged not to eat the fish or serve it. (Among the signatories were owners of big-name restaurants like Blue Hill, Chez Panisse and Tataki Sushi.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you'll still find tiny morsels of bluefin on tasting menus at glittery sushi restaurants in New York and Los Angeles like Nobu, Morimoto and Masa, and at the Michelin-starred Terra in Napa Valley. It has become a luxury food item — like shark fin or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/03/337162283/taste-for-rare-wild-pangolin-is-driving-the-mammal-to-extinction\">pangolin\u003c/a> in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\" alt=\"The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And we received an invitation in October from Jaleo, one of celebrity chef Jose Andres' Spanish-themed restaurants in Washington, D.C., for a \"Tuna Celebration\" featuring four dishes with bluefin. (The event was postponed; more on it and Andres later.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one clear reason why it's still on menus: \"Bluefin tuna belly is one of the most delicious things in the world,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/bruce-mattel/\">Bruce Mattel\u003c/a>, associate dean of food production at the Culinary Institute of America. But, he says, the decision to serve bluefin is \"largely driven by demographics and customer base\" — in other words, chefs beholden to people spending hundreds of dollars on a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs at top restaurants can't really play dumb about how few bluefin are left in the sea, Mattel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think most [chefs] are aware of the conservation issues,\" Mattel tells us. \"I don't know how you cannot be aware if you have a passion for fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One internationally acclaimed chef who's aware — and gravely concerned — is Japanese sushi master Jiro Ono, subject of the 2011 documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/16/148737187/cameras-follow-worlds-greatest-sushi-chef\">Jiro Dreams of Sushi\u003c/a> and the chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/306227740/obama-gets-a-taste-of-jiros-dream-sushi-in-name-of-diplomacy\">who prepared sushi \u003c/a>for President Obama during a visit to Japan in April 2014. In November, Ono told the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan: \"I can't imagine at all that sushi in the future will be made of the same materials we use today. I told my young men three years ago sushi materials will totally change in five years. And now, such a trend is becoming a reality little by little.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/jiro-ono-warns-raw-deal-overfishing-article-1.1998645\">According to\u003c/a> the \u003cem>New York Daily News\u003c/em>, Ono was referring to his troubles getting high-quality Pacific bluefin, and having to rely on Atlantic bluefin instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattel of the CIA says he won't order that species of tuna anymore, whether he's dining or cooking. And he's troubled and perplexed by chefs' continued use of it, when there are so many other delicious fish they could be cooking instead. \"When you think about the diversity of the oceans, it just baffles that we're so dependent on this species,\" says Mattel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We asked the chefs at Nobu and Terra in Napa Valley to explain why they still serve it, but we got no response to our calls and emails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After repeated requests for an interview, Jose Andres finally sat down with us to explain why he included bluefin on the menu for his Tuna Celebration. The event was postponed last fall, but Andres says he may still host it in May. It will be focused around\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, a coastal Spanish tradition of carving a whole bluefin tuna in front of an audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I wanted to do was celebrate the way of life of the people in the Mediterranean, show the disappearing way of life, the \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em>,\" he says, referring to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhIqzqpE9D8\">elaborate and ancient system of nets\u003c/a> used in small fishing communities. For the celebration, he hopes to bring over fishermen from Galicia, Spain, who catch the fish this way only once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And ultimately, Andres argues, these artisanal fishermen who've been catching Atlantic bluefin their whole lives the same way their grandfathers did, are not to blame for the species' decimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I believe something radical should be done. We should be stopping those [large fishing] fleets following those tunas. If that means also stopping those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> in Spain, Turkey, Italy, I will say so ... but I don't believe those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> catchers are the problem.\" (After our interview, Andres said he might not serve bluefin at the tuna event, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biologicaldiversity.org/about/staff/\">Catherine Kilduff\u003c/a>, staff attorney for the Center for Biological Diversity, agrees that the agencies charged with regulating fishing of bluefin haven't set low enough limits for fishermen big or small to allow the populations to recover. And, she says, the fishermen who catch bluefin can still make a lot of money from them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, this is an environmental issue that's been very responsive in the past to economics,\" she says. \"There are still people who want to buy it; that's why the price is so high. The only way to break that loop is to have people say they're valuable in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, Kilduff says, eating a tuna caught by an artisanal fisherman in a Mediterranean \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> isn't any more defensible than eating one caught by a massive Japanese trawler: \"The argument that there's a way to catch them that makes it sustainable is kind of a red herring.\" (This is why some fishermen have decided instead to try and farm bluefin, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/30/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price/\">reported\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while American consumers are not the primary consumers of bluefin, their influence still matters a lot, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public demand that these fish not go extinct is the only thing that's going to save them,\" says Kilduff. \"Having people go into restaurants [serving it and telling them not to] is probably the most direct way to vote on those issues.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/91895/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","authors":["byline_bayareabites_91895"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_14055","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_335","bayareabites_336","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_1956"],"featImg":"bayareabites_91896","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_71080":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_71080","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"71080","score":null,"sort":[1380649839000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","title":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures","publishDate":1380649839,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1380719045,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1562},"headData":{"title":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures | KQED","description":"While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"71080 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=71080","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/01/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures/","disqusTitle":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures","path":"/bayareabites/71080/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/71080/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_10737","bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_12457","bayareabites_12467","bayareabites_12459","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_10422","bayareabites_12468","bayareabites_3588","bayareabites_11397","bayareabites_8288","bayareabites_12469","bayareabites_12470","bayareabites_10163"],"featImg":"bayareabites_71386","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_69240":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_69240","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"69240","score":null,"sort":[1377895697000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers","title":"The Fast-Food Restaurants That Require Few Human Workers","publishDate":1377895697,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat.jpg\" alt=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers. Photo: John Kannenberg/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69270\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers. Photo: John Kannenberg/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/144449221/elise-hu\">Elise Hu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers\">All Tech Considered at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In perhaps the largest nationwide fast-food strike in history, the employees who make your 99-cent burgers and tacos were \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/29/largest-strike-so-far-by-fast-food-workers-set-for-thursday/\">planning strikes\u003c/a> in 50 U.S. cities Thursday. Workers are calling for a $15 minimum wage and hoping to raise attention to the fast-food industry's low pay and limited prospects. The current federal minimum wage standard is $7.25 per hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69271\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-febo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-febo-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The Febo snack bar is open all night. Photo: Adam Jackson/Flickr\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-69271\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Febo snack bar is open all night. Photo: Adam Jackson/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Business-friendly groups argue that the push for higher wages will only speed up the workers' \"replacement by automation,\" especially if the demand for a higher minimum wage is met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The burgers of tomorrow could be made by robots — not employees,\" argues The Employment Policies Institute, a business-financed think tank that is running a full-page ad against the strike in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.epionline.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/EPI_MinimumWageRobot_WSJ_final_lowres.pdf\">The Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The fight for $15 is a fight against technology, not management — and that's a fight that these union-organized protestors can't win. Instead of securing a bigger paycheck, the less-experienced employees demanding a more than 100 percent pay increase will find their jobs replaced by less-costly alternatives,\" Michael Saltsman, research director at EPI, said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69272\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-japan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-japan-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"At Japanese automats, you buy a ticket in the machine, hand in the ticket with your order, and pick up your food. Photo: Anna Lee/Flickr\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-69272\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Japanese automats, you buy a ticket in the machine, hand in the ticket with your order, and pick up your food. Photo: Anna Lee/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chances of Congress raising the federal minimum wage are beyond slim, especially during a time when the only bills lawmakers can seem to pass involve renaming post offices. But the automation question got us thinking. Haven't we seen automated fast-food restaurants somewhere before?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes! They're called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automat\">automats\u003c/a> — restaurants where the food is served by vending machines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, \u003ca href=\"http://www.holland.com/global/tourism/article/febo-amsterdam-2.htm\">Amsterdam's Febo chain\u003c/a> of stores feature only vending-machine service for burgers, fries and more. A few employees are responsible for stocking the items behind the machines but way out of customer view, so you can walk up, drop in your coins and get a hot meal after a long night out without talking to anyone face-to-face.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Japan also has a version of automats, known there as \u003cem>shokkenki\u003c/em>. There, you choose the meal you want and purchase a ticket for it, then you hand in your ticket to the cook behind the counter. I guess this eliminates the role for the person who takes your order at the register.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the serverless restaurant was actually in vogue in the United States at the turn of the 20th century. \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/object_aug01.html\">\u003cem>Smithsonian Magazine\u003c/em> looked back\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Horn & Hardart and its cavernous, waiterless establishments represented a combination of fast-food, vending and cafeteria-style eateries. These restaurants, with their chrome-and-glass coin-operated machines, brought high-tech, inexpensive eating to a low-tech era. Making their debut in Philadelphia in 1902, just up the street from Independence Hall, and reaching Manhattan in 1912, Horn & Hardart Automats became an American icon, celebrated in song and humor. With their uniform recipes and centralized commissary system of supplying their restaurants, the Automats were America's first major fast-food chain.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But by the 1970s, the magazine explains, automats fell victim to consumers' changing tastes and lifestyles. Americans had moved into the suburbs, which killed the late night business at downtown automats. And places like McDonald's had lower food costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that automation is en vogue again, maybe automats, like so many other trends, will get a chance at a comeback.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As fast-food workers go on strike in cities across the country, opponents argue robots could replace them if their demands for a higher minimum wage are met. But robots for fast food exist already — kind of.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1377895697,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":623},"headData":{"title":"The Fast-Food Restaurants That Require Few Human Workers | KQED","description":"As fast-food workers go on strike in cities across the country, opponents argue robots could replace them if their demands for a higher minimum wage are met. But robots for fast food exist already — kind of.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"69240 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=69240","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/30/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers/","disqusTitle":"The Fast-Food Restaurants That Require Few Human Workers","nprByline":"Elise Hu","nprStoryId":"216541023","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=216541023&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers?ft=3&f=216541023","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 29 Aug 2013 14:11:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 29 Aug 2013 13:45:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 29 Aug 2013 14:11:49 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/69240/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat.jpg\" alt=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers. Photo: John Kannenberg/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69270\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers. Photo: John Kannenberg/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/144449221/elise-hu\">Elise Hu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/08/28/216541023/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers\">All Tech Considered at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In perhaps the largest nationwide fast-food strike in history, the employees who make your 99-cent burgers and tacos were \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/29/largest-strike-so-far-by-fast-food-workers-set-for-thursday/\">planning strikes\u003c/a> in 50 U.S. cities Thursday. Workers are calling for a $15 minimum wage and hoping to raise attention to the fast-food industry's low pay and limited prospects. The current federal minimum wage standard is $7.25 per hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69271\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-febo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-febo-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The Febo snack bar is open all night. Photo: Adam Jackson/Flickr\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-69271\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Febo snack bar is open all night. Photo: Adam Jackson/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Business-friendly groups argue that the push for higher wages will only speed up the workers' \"replacement by automation,\" especially if the demand for a higher minimum wage is met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The burgers of tomorrow could be made by robots — not employees,\" argues The Employment Policies Institute, a business-financed think tank that is running a full-page ad against the strike in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.epionline.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/EPI_MinimumWageRobot_WSJ_final_lowres.pdf\">The Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The fight for $15 is a fight against technology, not management — and that's a fight that these union-organized protestors can't win. Instead of securing a bigger paycheck, the less-experienced employees demanding a more than 100 percent pay increase will find their jobs replaced by less-costly alternatives,\" Michael Saltsman, research director at EPI, said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69272\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-japan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/automat-japan-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"At Japanese automats, you buy a ticket in the machine, hand in the ticket with your order, and pick up your food. Photo: Anna Lee/Flickr\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-69272\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Japanese automats, you buy a ticket in the machine, hand in the ticket with your order, and pick up your food. Photo: Anna Lee/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chances of Congress raising the federal minimum wage are beyond slim, especially during a time when the only bills lawmakers can seem to pass involve renaming post offices. But the automation question got us thinking. Haven't we seen automated fast-food restaurants somewhere before?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes! They're called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automat\">automats\u003c/a> — restaurants where the food is served by vending machines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, \u003ca href=\"http://www.holland.com/global/tourism/article/febo-amsterdam-2.htm\">Amsterdam's Febo chain\u003c/a> of stores feature only vending-machine service for burgers, fries and more. A few employees are responsible for stocking the items behind the machines but way out of customer view, so you can walk up, drop in your coins and get a hot meal after a long night out without talking to anyone face-to-face.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Japan also has a version of automats, known there as \u003cem>shokkenki\u003c/em>. There, you choose the meal you want and purchase a ticket for it, then you hand in your ticket to the cook behind the counter. I guess this eliminates the role for the person who takes your order at the register.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the serverless restaurant was actually in vogue in the United States at the turn of the 20th century. \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/object_aug01.html\">\u003cem>Smithsonian Magazine\u003c/em> looked back\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Horn & Hardart and its cavernous, waiterless establishments represented a combination of fast-food, vending and cafeteria-style eateries. These restaurants, with their chrome-and-glass coin-operated machines, brought high-tech, inexpensive eating to a low-tech era. Making their debut in Philadelphia in 1902, just up the street from Independence Hall, and reaching Manhattan in 1912, Horn & Hardart Automats became an American icon, celebrated in song and humor. With their uniform recipes and centralized commissary system of supplying their restaurants, the Automats were America's first major fast-food chain.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But by the 1970s, the magazine explains, automats fell victim to consumers' changing tastes and lifestyles. Americans had moved into the suburbs, which killed the late night business at downtown automats. And places like McDonald's had lower food costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that automation is en vogue again, maybe automats, like so many other trends, will get a chance at a comeback.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/69240/the-fast-food-restaurants-that-require-few-human-workers","authors":["byline_bayareabites_69240"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_12290","bayareabites_12292","bayareabites_12291","bayareabites_1435","bayareabites_12104","bayareabites_12296","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_12293","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69269","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_68592":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68592","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68592","score":null,"sort":[1377016337000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","title":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger ","publishDate":1377016337,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\" alt=\"A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68601\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask about the foods that have conquered the world and you're likely to hear about Coca-Cola and McDonald's Big Macs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most successful industrial food ever produced flies far under the radar. And it has finally been outed by three anthropologists in a fascinating \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520276345\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>, which analyzes the precipitous rise – or \"brilliant career,\" as the authors say — of instant ramen, from its birth in postwar Japan to its sales of just over \u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/noodles/expanding-market.html\">100 billion servings\u003c/a> worldwide in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take a moment to digest that figure: It's about 14 servings for every single person on Earth, at a cost of just a few cents apiece. That's an astonishing quantity, especially to American consumers, who don't tend to think of the stiff, wavy blocks of noodles as an important staple (though they are for some college students, inmates and low-income Americans). And while our foodie culture currently has a fling with ramen (think ramen bars and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/08/new-yorks-changing-ramen-scene.html\">ramen burger\u003c/a>), we're only the world's sixth-biggest market for the noodles, according to the World Instant Noodles Association. Our consumption is dwarfed by that of China and India — and even Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68600\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3-190x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Noodle Narratives: The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\" width=\"190\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Noodle Narratives:\u003cbr>The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's the multinational noodle companies' conquest of countries like Papua New Guinea, Nigeria, Brazil and Mexico that really interests the anthropologists: Frederick Errington of Trinity College, Tatsuro Fujikura of Kyoto University and Deborah Gewertz of Amherst College. And it's here that they make one of their most intriguing arguments: Instant noodles do good by alleviating the hunger of millions of people around the world. These super cheap, super palatable noodles, they write, help the low-wage workers in rich and poor countries alike hang on when the going gets tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're cheap and tasty and tweakable,\" Gewertz tells The Salt. \"They're capable of being transformed to everyone's cultural taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Thailand, instant ramen is seasoned with lemongrass and cilantro. Mexicans can buy Maruchan noodle soup cups flecked with \u003ca href=\"http://maruchan.com.mx/mg/vaso-maruchan/\">shrimp, lime and habanero\u003c/a>, among other flavors. Papua New Guineans have incorporated the noodles into rituals as cardinal as weaning babies and honoring the dead, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japan, the birthplace of instant ramen, the consumer appetite for novel ramen products is so ravenous that manufacturers introduce 600 new flavors a year, the authors report. But it all started in the postwar period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 1957, businessman Momofuku Ando (yes, the namesake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">Chef David Chang's beloved restaurants\u003c/a>) decided he wanted to invent an industrial take on freshly made ramen – the stuff Chang has helped make trendy again — for his hungry, budget-minded compatriots using surplus wheat donated by the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took Ando years to perfect the process of making a dry block of noodles. But ultimately he succeeded by applying the \"principle of tempura:\" steaming and dousing the noodles in chicken broth, and then bathing them in hot oil. This dried them out, and made them shelf-stable, but also easy to rehydrate. He added the winning combination of MSG, salt and sugar (which now comes in a flavor packet) to round out the flavor. While industrial instant ramen has evolved new variations, Nissin and the other manufacturers haven't strayed far from Ando's original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While not exactly nutritious, instant noodles are a \"hunger killer,\" as the authors say. They're made with wheat flour, which has a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/09/10/160757730/low-and-slow-may-be-the-way-to-go-when-it-comes-to-dieting\">high glycemic index\u003c/a> (a metric for how soon a food is likely to make you hungry again). But they're also fried in palm oil, which is 49 percent saturated fat — higher than pork lard (40 percent) and soybean oil (14 percent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that fat keeps you feeling full longer and helps bring the noodles' overall glycemic index down. The fact that instant noodles become soup once you add water helps, too – as the authors note, soup provides longer satiety than, say, noodles alone. And that helps explain why ramen have become a staple of the world's undernourished, and part of some humanitarian food aid packages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palm is the industry's oil of choice because it's cheap, it can withstand high heat, and it has a longer shelf life than other oils. But in the U.S., \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205486197/palm-oil-in-the-food-supply-what-you-should-know\">we're told to eat palm oil sparingly\u003c/a> because it raises bad LDL cholesterol levels. So is it really wise for so many people around the world to be so reliant on instant ramen for sustenance? Why can't the urban poor eat something more nutritious than this highly processed, high-fat food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, that would be ideal, the authors say, but the reality is that in many global cities, the urban poor lack affordable alternatives that are more healthful than ramen. \"How are you going to feed these people?\" says Gewertz. \"I would love to feed them with fruits and vegetables at the local markets, but they are expensive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\" alt=\"Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68599\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The authors say that \"real food\" advocates like journalist Michael Pollan, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=89876927\">wring their hands\u003c/a> over rising consumption of industrial food like ramen, raise important questions about its perils. But the authors also call ramen a \"virtually unstoppable\" phenomenon. And they foresee a world of 9 billion people \"in which the affluent will be presented with too many food choices and [will be] called upon to use their survival skills to choose wisely, and in which the poor will have to use their survival skills to get by on cheap food\" like ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to take Michael Pollan to a squatter settlement and have him deal with poor, hungry people in such circumstances, who have no choice of going back home to grow subsistence crops or be part of a regional food system,\" says Gewertz. \"Subsistence agriculture is hard, dirty and hot work. People want out of it. It's not to be over romanticized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, as Gerwertz tells us, a better way to help the poor who rely on ramen is to make the noodles more nutritious: they could be \"reduced-sodium, lower-fat, higher-fiber, better fortified,\" though that will also translate into a slightly higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We find it difficult to image the increasingly urbanized food future without this humble form of salt, MSG-enhanced, oily and sometimes sugary\" food, they write. But \"we conclude [that it's for the best] with great reluctance.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The super cheap, super palatable noodles help low-wage workers around the world get by, anthropologists argue in a new book. And rather than lament the ascendance of this highly processed food, they argue we should try to make it more nutritious.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1377016337,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1138},"headData":{"title":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger | KQED","description":"The super cheap, super palatable noodles help low-wage workers around the world get by, anthropologists argue in a new book. And rather than lament the ascendance of this highly processed food, they argue we should try to make it more nutritious.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"68592 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68592","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/20/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger/","disqusTitle":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger ","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"212671438","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=212671438&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger?ft=3&f=212671438","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:59:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:53:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:59:22 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/68592/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\" alt=\"A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68601\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask about the foods that have conquered the world and you're likely to hear about Coca-Cola and McDonald's Big Macs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most successful industrial food ever produced flies far under the radar. And it has finally been outed by three anthropologists in a fascinating \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520276345\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>, which analyzes the precipitous rise – or \"brilliant career,\" as the authors say — of instant ramen, from its birth in postwar Japan to its sales of just over \u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/noodles/expanding-market.html\">100 billion servings\u003c/a> worldwide in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take a moment to digest that figure: It's about 14 servings for every single person on Earth, at a cost of just a few cents apiece. That's an astonishing quantity, especially to American consumers, who don't tend to think of the stiff, wavy blocks of noodles as an important staple (though they are for some college students, inmates and low-income Americans). And while our foodie culture currently has a fling with ramen (think ramen bars and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/08/new-yorks-changing-ramen-scene.html\">ramen burger\u003c/a>), we're only the world's sixth-biggest market for the noodles, according to the World Instant Noodles Association. Our consumption is dwarfed by that of China and India — and even Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68600\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3-190x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Noodle Narratives: The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\" width=\"190\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Noodle Narratives:\u003cbr>The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's the multinational noodle companies' conquest of countries like Papua New Guinea, Nigeria, Brazil and Mexico that really interests the anthropologists: Frederick Errington of Trinity College, Tatsuro Fujikura of Kyoto University and Deborah Gewertz of Amherst College. And it's here that they make one of their most intriguing arguments: Instant noodles do good by alleviating the hunger of millions of people around the world. These super cheap, super palatable noodles, they write, help the low-wage workers in rich and poor countries alike hang on when the going gets tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're cheap and tasty and tweakable,\" Gewertz tells The Salt. \"They're capable of being transformed to everyone's cultural taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Thailand, instant ramen is seasoned with lemongrass and cilantro. Mexicans can buy Maruchan noodle soup cups flecked with \u003ca href=\"http://maruchan.com.mx/mg/vaso-maruchan/\">shrimp, lime and habanero\u003c/a>, among other flavors. Papua New Guineans have incorporated the noodles into rituals as cardinal as weaning babies and honoring the dead, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japan, the birthplace of instant ramen, the consumer appetite for novel ramen products is so ravenous that manufacturers introduce 600 new flavors a year, the authors report. But it all started in the postwar period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 1957, businessman Momofuku Ando (yes, the namesake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">Chef David Chang's beloved restaurants\u003c/a>) decided he wanted to invent an industrial take on freshly made ramen – the stuff Chang has helped make trendy again — for his hungry, budget-minded compatriots using surplus wheat donated by the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took Ando years to perfect the process of making a dry block of noodles. But ultimately he succeeded by applying the \"principle of tempura:\" steaming and dousing the noodles in chicken broth, and then bathing them in hot oil. This dried them out, and made them shelf-stable, but also easy to rehydrate. He added the winning combination of MSG, salt and sugar (which now comes in a flavor packet) to round out the flavor. While industrial instant ramen has evolved new variations, Nissin and the other manufacturers haven't strayed far from Ando's original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While not exactly nutritious, instant noodles are a \"hunger killer,\" as the authors say. They're made with wheat flour, which has a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/09/10/160757730/low-and-slow-may-be-the-way-to-go-when-it-comes-to-dieting\">high glycemic index\u003c/a> (a metric for how soon a food is likely to make you hungry again). But they're also fried in palm oil, which is 49 percent saturated fat — higher than pork lard (40 percent) and soybean oil (14 percent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that fat keeps you feeling full longer and helps bring the noodles' overall glycemic index down. The fact that instant noodles become soup once you add water helps, too – as the authors note, soup provides longer satiety than, say, noodles alone. And that helps explain why ramen have become a staple of the world's undernourished, and part of some humanitarian food aid packages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palm is the industry's oil of choice because it's cheap, it can withstand high heat, and it has a longer shelf life than other oils. But in the U.S., \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205486197/palm-oil-in-the-food-supply-what-you-should-know\">we're told to eat palm oil sparingly\u003c/a> because it raises bad LDL cholesterol levels. So is it really wise for so many people around the world to be so reliant on instant ramen for sustenance? Why can't the urban poor eat something more nutritious than this highly processed, high-fat food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, that would be ideal, the authors say, but the reality is that in many global cities, the urban poor lack affordable alternatives that are more healthful than ramen. \"How are you going to feed these people?\" says Gewertz. \"I would love to feed them with fruits and vegetables at the local markets, but they are expensive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\" alt=\"Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68599\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The authors say that \"real food\" advocates like journalist Michael Pollan, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=89876927\">wring their hands\u003c/a> over rising consumption of industrial food like ramen, raise important questions about its perils. But the authors also call ramen a \"virtually unstoppable\" phenomenon. And they foresee a world of 9 billion people \"in which the affluent will be presented with too many food choices and [will be] called upon to use their survival skills to choose wisely, and in which the poor will have to use their survival skills to get by on cheap food\" like ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to take Michael Pollan to a squatter settlement and have him deal with poor, hungry people in such circumstances, who have no choice of going back home to grow subsistence crops or be part of a regional food system,\" says Gewertz. \"Subsistence agriculture is hard, dirty and hot work. People want out of it. It's not to be over romanticized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, as Gerwertz tells us, a better way to help the poor who rely on ramen is to make the noodles more nutritious: they could be \"reduced-sodium, lower-fat, higher-fiber, better fortified,\" though that will also translate into a slightly higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We find it difficult to image the increasingly urbanized food future without this humble form of salt, MSG-enhanced, oily and sometimes sugary\" food, they write. But \"we conclude [that it's for the best] with great reluctance.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68592/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","authors":["byline_bayareabites_68592"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_272","bayareabites_107","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_97","bayareabites_4042","bayareabites_2929"],"featImg":"bayareabites_68598","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_58472":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_58472","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"58472","score":null,"sort":[1363371353000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk","title":"A Daily Habit Of Green Tea Or Coffee Cuts Stroke Risk","publishDate":1363371353,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drinkinggreentea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drinkinggreentea.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese women drink green tea during an outdoor tea ceremony in Kobe, Japan. Making the brew a daily habit may be protective against stroke. Photo: Buddhika Weerasinghe/Getty Images\" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58477\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese women drink green tea during an outdoor tea ceremony in Kobe, Japan. Making the brew a daily habit may be protective against stroke. Photo: Buddhika Weerasinghe/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/15/174334493/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130315_me_19.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/15/174334493/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/15/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's green tea that warms you up, or coffee that gives you that morning lift, a new study finds \u003cem>both\u003c/em> can help cut the risk of suffering a stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://stroke.ahajournals.org/\">study\u003c/a>, published in the American Heart Association journal \u003cem>Stroke\u003c/em>, included 82,369 men and women in Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Researchers found that the more green tea a person drank, the more it reduced the risk of suffering a stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's almost a 20 percent lower risk of stroke in the green tea drinkers\" who drank four cups a day, compared with those who rarely drank green tea, explains Dr. Ralph Sacco of the University of Miami. (He's the past president of the American Heart Association, and we asked him to review the study for us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with coffee, researchers found just one cup per day was also associated with about a 20 percent decreased risk of stroke during a 13-year follow-up period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was still feeling rather surprised\" about the findings, Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.labome.org/expert/japan/national/kokubo/yoshihiro-kokubo-178549.html\">Yoshihiro Kokubo\u003c/a>, the study's lead author, tells The Salt in an email. Kokubo is a researcher at the Department of Preventive Cardiology, National Cerebra and Cardiovascular Center in Osaka, Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kokubo says that green tea contains compounds known as catechins, which help regulate blood pressure and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19516176\">help improve blood flow\u003c/a>. The compounds also seem to promote an anti-inflammatory effect. Kokubo says coffee, which contains caffeine and compounds known as quinides, likely influences our health through different mechanisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the Japanese who seem to benefit from drinking coffee and green tea. Over the past few years, researchers in the U.S. have documented similar reductions in heart disease risk among Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The accumulating evidence from a variety of studies is suggesting that green tea and coffee may be protective,\" says Sacco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in addition, recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/coffee/\">studies\u003c/a> have linked a regular coffee habit to a range of benefits — from a reduced risk of Type 2 diabetes to a protective effect against Parkinson's disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's interesting to note how much the thinking about caffeine and coffee has changed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1980s, surveys found that many Americans were trying to avoid it; caffeine was thought to be harmful, even at moderate doses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason? \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/meir-stampfer/\">Meir Stampfer\u003c/a> of the Harvard School of Public Health says back then, coffee drinkers also tended to be heavy smokers. And in early studies, it was very tough to disentangle the two habits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it made coffee look bad in terms of health outcomes,\" says Stampfer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as newer studies began to separate out the effects of coffee and tea, a new picture emerged suggesting benefits, not risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Researchers say there's still a lot to learn here — they haven't nailed down all the mechanisms by which coffee and tea influence our health. Nor have they ruled out that it may be other lifestyle habits among coffee and tea drinkers that's leading to the reduced risk of disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And experts say when it comes to preventing strokes and heart attacks, no food or drink is a magic bullet. It's our overall patterns of eating and exercise that are important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a whole lifestyle approach, and we need to remember that,\" says Sacco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if you are already in the habit of drinking coffee or green tea, this study is one more bit of evidence that you can go ahead and enjoy it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Drinking four cups of green tea or one cup of coffee per day were each associated with about a 20 percent lower risk of stroke. That's according to a study of more than 82,000 men and women in Japan.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1363371353,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":639},"headData":{"title":"A Daily Habit Of Green Tea Or Coffee Cuts Stroke Risk | KQED","description":"Drinking four cups of green tea or one cup of coffee per day were each associated with about a 20 percent lower risk of stroke. That's according to a study of more than 82,000 men and women in Japan.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"58472 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=58472","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/15/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk/","disqusTitle":"A Daily Habit Of Green Tea Or Coffee Cuts Stroke Risk","nprByline":"Allison Aubrey","nprStoryId":"174334493","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=174334493&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/15/174334493/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk?ft=3&f=174334493","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 15 Mar 2013 06:56:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 15 Mar 2013 04:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 15 Mar 2013 07:32:43 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130315_me_19.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=174334493","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1174383294-4a7f6b.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=174334493","path":"/bayareabites/58472/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130315_me_19.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=174334493","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drinkinggreentea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drinkinggreentea.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese women drink green tea during an outdoor tea ceremony in Kobe, Japan. Making the brew a daily habit may be protective against stroke. Photo: Buddhika Weerasinghe/Getty Images\" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58477\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese women drink green tea during an outdoor tea ceremony in Kobe, Japan. Making the brew a daily habit may be protective against stroke. Photo: Buddhika Weerasinghe/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/15/174334493/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130315_me_19.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/15/174334493/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/15/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's green tea that warms you up, or coffee that gives you that morning lift, a new study finds \u003cem>both\u003c/em> can help cut the risk of suffering a stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://stroke.ahajournals.org/\">study\u003c/a>, published in the American Heart Association journal \u003cem>Stroke\u003c/em>, included 82,369 men and women in Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Researchers found that the more green tea a person drank, the more it reduced the risk of suffering a stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's almost a 20 percent lower risk of stroke in the green tea drinkers\" who drank four cups a day, compared with those who rarely drank green tea, explains Dr. Ralph Sacco of the University of Miami. (He's the past president of the American Heart Association, and we asked him to review the study for us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with coffee, researchers found just one cup per day was also associated with about a 20 percent decreased risk of stroke during a 13-year follow-up period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was still feeling rather surprised\" about the findings, Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.labome.org/expert/japan/national/kokubo/yoshihiro-kokubo-178549.html\">Yoshihiro Kokubo\u003c/a>, the study's lead author, tells The Salt in an email. Kokubo is a researcher at the Department of Preventive Cardiology, National Cerebra and Cardiovascular Center in Osaka, Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kokubo says that green tea contains compounds known as catechins, which help regulate blood pressure and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19516176\">help improve blood flow\u003c/a>. The compounds also seem to promote an anti-inflammatory effect. Kokubo says coffee, which contains caffeine and compounds known as quinides, likely influences our health through different mechanisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the Japanese who seem to benefit from drinking coffee and green tea. Over the past few years, researchers in the U.S. have documented similar reductions in heart disease risk among Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The accumulating evidence from a variety of studies is suggesting that green tea and coffee may be protective,\" says Sacco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in addition, recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/coffee/\">studies\u003c/a> have linked a regular coffee habit to a range of benefits — from a reduced risk of Type 2 diabetes to a protective effect against Parkinson's disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's interesting to note how much the thinking about caffeine and coffee has changed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1980s, surveys found that many Americans were trying to avoid it; caffeine was thought to be harmful, even at moderate doses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason? \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/meir-stampfer/\">Meir Stampfer\u003c/a> of the Harvard School of Public Health says back then, coffee drinkers also tended to be heavy smokers. And in early studies, it was very tough to disentangle the two habits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it made coffee look bad in terms of health outcomes,\" says Stampfer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as newer studies began to separate out the effects of coffee and tea, a new picture emerged suggesting benefits, not risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Researchers say there's still a lot to learn here — they haven't nailed down all the mechanisms by which coffee and tea influence our health. Nor have they ruled out that it may be other lifestyle habits among coffee and tea drinkers that's leading to the reduced risk of disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And experts say when it comes to preventing strokes and heart attacks, no food or drink is a magic bullet. It's our overall patterns of eating and exercise that are important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a whole lifestyle approach, and we need to remember that,\" says Sacco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if you are already in the habit of drinking coffee or green tea, this study is one more bit of evidence that you can go ahead and enjoy it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/58472/a-daily-habit-of-green-tea-or-coffee-cuts-stroke-risk","authors":["byline_bayareabites_58472"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_11396","bayareabites_125","bayareabites_11395","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_10957","bayareabites_11263","bayareabites_11318","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_58473","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/insideEurope.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. 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We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/mindshift2021-tile-3000x3000-1-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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