14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming
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Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_129693":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_129693","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"129693","score":null,"sort":[1532538393000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"14000-year-old-piece-of-bread-rewrites-the-history-of-baking-and-farming","title":"14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming","publishDate":1532538393,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>When an archaeologist working on an excavation site in Jordan first swept up the tiny black particles scattered around an ancient fireplace, she had no idea they were going to change the history of food and agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amaia Arranz-Otaegui is an archaeobotanist from the University of Copenhagen. She was collecting dinner leftovers of the Natufians, a hunter-gatherer tribe that lived in the area more than 14,000 years ago during the Epipaleolithic time — a period between the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Natufians were hunters, which one could clearly tell from the bones of gazelles, sheep and hares that littered the cooking pit. But it turns out the Natufians were bakers, too --at a time well before scientists thought it was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Arranz-Otaegui sifted through the swept-up silt, the black particles appeared to be charred food remains. \"They looked like what we find in our toasters,\" she says — except no one ever heard of people making bread so early in human history. \"I could tell they were processed plants,\" Arranz-Otaegui says, \"but I didn't really know what they were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she took her burnt findings to a colleague, \u003ca href=\"https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/researchers-in-museums/category/c-e/lara-gonzalez-carretero/\">Lara Gonzalez Carretero\u003c/a> at University College London Institute of Archaeology, whose specialty is identifying prehistoric food remains, bread in particular. She concluded that what Arranz-Otaegui had unearthed was a handful of truly primordial breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We both realized we were looking at the oldest bread remains in the world,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. They were both quite surprised — with good reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/175338_wide-a8640cb968770a59a637272ee4586099441b85ac-e1532537327992.jpg\" alt=\"A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129695\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for. \u003ccite>(Alexis Pantos)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The established archaeological doctrine states that humans first began baking bread about 10,000 years ago. That was a pivotal time in our evolution. Humans gave up their nomadic way of life, settled down and began farming and growing cereals. Once they had various grains handy, they began milling them into flour and making bread. In other words, until now we thought that our ancestors were farmers first and bakers second. But Arranz-Otaegui's breadcrumbs predate the advent of agriculture by at least 4,000 years. That means that our ancestors were bakers first —and learned to farm afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Finding bread in this Epipaleolithic site was the last thing we expected!\" says Arranz-Otaegui. \"We used to think that the first bread appeared during the Neolithic times, when people started to cultivate cereal, but it now seems they learned to make bread earlier.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, the idea that early humans learned to bake before settling down to farm is logical, the researchers behind the finding say. Making bread is a labor-intensive process that involves removing husks, grinding cereals, kneading the dough and then baking it. The fact that our ancestors were willing to invest so much effort into the prehistoric pastry suggests that they considered bread a special treat. Baking bread could have been reserved for special occasions or to impress important guests. The people's desire to indulge more often may have prompted them to begin cultivating cereals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our opinion, instead of domesticating cereals first, the bread-making culture could have been something that actually fueled the domestication of cereal,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. \"So maybe it was the other way around [from what we previously thought.]\" The \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2018/07/10/1801071115\">research\u003c/a> appears in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oeaw.ac.at/oeai/das-institut/team/zentrale-wien/heiss-andreas-g/\">Andreas Heiss\u003c/a>, an archaeologist at the Austrian Academy of Science who is familiar with the project but not directly involved in the study, finds the discovery \"thrilling.\" He says it shows that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It tells us that our ancestors were smart people who knew how to use their environment well,\" Heiss says. \"It also tells us that processing food is a much more basic technique in human history than we thought — maybe as old as hunting and gathering.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the team analyzed the crumbs further, they found out that the Natufians were sophisticated cooks. Their flour was made from two different types of ingredients — wild wheat called einkorn and the roots of club-rush tubers, a type of a flowering plant. That particular combination allowed them to make pliable elastic dough that could be pressed onto the walls of their fireplace pits, much like flatbreads are baked today in tandoori overs — and baked to perfection. Besides the einkorn and tubers, the team also found traces of barley and oats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Natufians may have had rather developed taste buds, too. They liked to toss some spices and condiments into their dishes, particularly mustard seeds. \"We found a lot of wild mustard seeds, not in the bread but in the overall assemblage,\" says Gonzalez Carretero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, she adds, mustard seeds had also been found in some bread remains excavated from other sites, so it's possible that Natufians sprinkled a few on their own pastries. So far, the team has analyzed only 25 breadcrumbs with about 600 more to go, so they think chances are good that some charred pieces with mustard seeds might turn up. Arranz-Otaegui thinks it's possible. \"The seeds have [a] very particular taste, so why not use them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exactly how delicious was this special Natufian treat? It's hard to tell. Modern-day bread recipes don't include ancient wheat or roots of tuberous plants. But Arranz-Otaegui does want to find out how the Epipaleolithic bread played on the palate. She has been gathering the einkorn seeds, as well as peeling and grinding the tubers. She plans to partner up with a skilled chef and baker to reconstruct the exact mixture in correct proportions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be the oldest bread recipe ever created by mankind.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lina Zeldovich is a science and food writer based in New York City.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=14%2C000-Year-Old+Piece+Of+Bread+Rewrites+The+History+Of+Baking+And+Farming&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Breadcrumbs found at an excavation in Jordan reveal that humans were baking thousands of years earlier than previously believed. It may have even prompted them to settle down and plant cereals.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1532538393,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1021},"headData":{"title":"14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming | KQED","description":"Breadcrumbs found at an excavation in Jordan reveal that humans were baking thousands of years earlier than previously believed. It may have even prompted them to settle down and plant cereals.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming","datePublished":"2018-07-25T17:06:33.000Z","dateModified":"2018-07-25T17:06:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"129693 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=129693","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/07/25/14000-year-old-piece-of-bread-rewrites-the-history-of-baking-and-farming/","disqusTitle":"14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming","nprByline":"Lina Zeldovich, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Amaia Arranz-Otaegui","nprStoryId":"631583427","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=631583427&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/07/24/631583427/14-000-year-old-piece-of-bread-rewrites-the-history-of-baking-and-farming?ft=nprml&f=631583427","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 24 Jul 2018 13:41:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 24 Jul 2018 11:57:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 24 Jul 2018 13:41:16 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/129693/14000-year-old-piece-of-bread-rewrites-the-history-of-baking-and-farming","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When an archaeologist working on an excavation site in Jordan first swept up the tiny black particles scattered around an ancient fireplace, she had no idea they were going to change the history of food and agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amaia Arranz-Otaegui is an archaeobotanist from the University of Copenhagen. She was collecting dinner leftovers of the Natufians, a hunter-gatherer tribe that lived in the area more than 14,000 years ago during the Epipaleolithic time — a period between the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Natufians were hunters, which one could clearly tell from the bones of gazelles, sheep and hares that littered the cooking pit. But it turns out the Natufians were bakers, too --at a time well before scientists thought it was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Arranz-Otaegui sifted through the swept-up silt, the black particles appeared to be charred food remains. \"They looked like what we find in our toasters,\" she says — except no one ever heard of people making bread so early in human history. \"I could tell they were processed plants,\" Arranz-Otaegui says, \"but I didn't really know what they were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she took her burnt findings to a colleague, \u003ca href=\"https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/researchers-in-museums/category/c-e/lara-gonzalez-carretero/\">Lara Gonzalez Carretero\u003c/a> at University College London Institute of Archaeology, whose specialty is identifying prehistoric food remains, bread in particular. She concluded that what Arranz-Otaegui had unearthed was a handful of truly primordial breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We both realized we were looking at the oldest bread remains in the world,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. They were both quite surprised — with good reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/175338_wide-a8640cb968770a59a637272ee4586099441b85ac-e1532537327992.jpg\" alt=\"A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129695\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for. \u003ccite>(Alexis Pantos)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The established archaeological doctrine states that humans first began baking bread about 10,000 years ago. That was a pivotal time in our evolution. Humans gave up their nomadic way of life, settled down and began farming and growing cereals. Once they had various grains handy, they began milling them into flour and making bread. In other words, until now we thought that our ancestors were farmers first and bakers second. But Arranz-Otaegui's breadcrumbs predate the advent of agriculture by at least 4,000 years. That means that our ancestors were bakers first —and learned to farm afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Finding bread in this Epipaleolithic site was the last thing we expected!\" says Arranz-Otaegui. \"We used to think that the first bread appeared during the Neolithic times, when people started to cultivate cereal, but it now seems they learned to make bread earlier.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, the idea that early humans learned to bake before settling down to farm is logical, the researchers behind the finding say. Making bread is a labor-intensive process that involves removing husks, grinding cereals, kneading the dough and then baking it. The fact that our ancestors were willing to invest so much effort into the prehistoric pastry suggests that they considered bread a special treat. Baking bread could have been reserved for special occasions or to impress important guests. The people's desire to indulge more often may have prompted them to begin cultivating cereals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our opinion, instead of domesticating cereals first, the bread-making culture could have been something that actually fueled the domestication of cereal,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. \"So maybe it was the other way around [from what we previously thought.]\" The \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2018/07/10/1801071115\">research\u003c/a> appears in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oeaw.ac.at/oeai/das-institut/team/zentrale-wien/heiss-andreas-g/\">Andreas Heiss\u003c/a>, an archaeologist at the Austrian Academy of Science who is familiar with the project but not directly involved in the study, finds the discovery \"thrilling.\" He says it shows that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It tells us that our ancestors were smart people who knew how to use their environment well,\" Heiss says. \"It also tells us that processing food is a much more basic technique in human history than we thought — maybe as old as hunting and gathering.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the team analyzed the crumbs further, they found out that the Natufians were sophisticated cooks. Their flour was made from two different types of ingredients — wild wheat called einkorn and the roots of club-rush tubers, a type of a flowering plant. That particular combination allowed them to make pliable elastic dough that could be pressed onto the walls of their fireplace pits, much like flatbreads are baked today in tandoori overs — and baked to perfection. Besides the einkorn and tubers, the team also found traces of barley and oats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Natufians may have had rather developed taste buds, too. They liked to toss some spices and condiments into their dishes, particularly mustard seeds. \"We found a lot of wild mustard seeds, not in the bread but in the overall assemblage,\" says Gonzalez Carretero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, she adds, mustard seeds had also been found in some bread remains excavated from other sites, so it's possible that Natufians sprinkled a few on their own pastries. So far, the team has analyzed only 25 breadcrumbs with about 600 more to go, so they think chances are good that some charred pieces with mustard seeds might turn up. Arranz-Otaegui thinks it's possible. \"The seeds have [a] very particular taste, so why not use them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exactly how delicious was this special Natufian treat? It's hard to tell. Modern-day bread recipes don't include ancient wheat or roots of tuberous plants. But Arranz-Otaegui does want to find out how the Epipaleolithic bread played on the palate. She has been gathering the einkorn seeds, as well as peeling and grinding the tubers. She plans to partner up with a skilled chef and baker to reconstruct the exact mixture in correct proportions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be the oldest bread recipe ever created by mankind.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lina Zeldovich is a science and food writer based in New York City.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=14%2C000-Year-Old+Piece+Of+Bread+Rewrites+The+History+Of+Baking+And+Farming&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/129693/14000-year-old-piece-of-bread-rewrites-the-history-of-baking-and-farming","authors":["byline_bayareabites_129693"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_11948","bayareabites_59","bayareabites_2143","bayareabites_16215","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_16214"],"featImg":"bayareabites_129694","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_110942":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_110942","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"110942","score":null,"sort":[1469482013000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"if-war-is-hell-then-coffee-has-offered-u-s-soldiers-some-salvation","title":"If War Is Hell, Then Coffee Has Offered U.S. Soldiers Some Salvation","publishDate":1469482013,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160725_me_if_war_is_hell_then_coffee_has_offered_us_soldiers_some_salvation.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In April 1865, at the bloody, bitter end of the Civil War, Ebenezer Nelson Gilpin, a Union cavalryman, wrote in his diary, \"Everything is chaos here. The suspense is almost unbearable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are reduced to quarter rations and no coffee,\" he continued. \"And nobody can soldier without coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If war is hell, then for many soldiers throughout American history, it is coffee that has offered some small salvation. \u003cem>Hidden Kitchens \u003c/em>looks at three American wars through the lens of coffee: the Civil War, Vietnam and Afghanistan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"LioXHxyqjrprTlZ4x05p2wN44tlLgATC\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Civil War\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>War, freedom, slavery, secession, union — these are some of the big themes you might expect to find in the diaries of Civil War soldiers. At least, that's what \u003ca href=\"http://americanhistory.si.edu/profile/1214\">Jon Grinspan\u003c/a>, a curator at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, assumed when he began digging through war journals in the nation's Civil War archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I went looking for the big stories,\" Grinspan says. \"And all they kept talking about was the coffee they had for breakfast, or the coffee they wanted to have for breakfast.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word coffee was more present in these diaries than the words \"war,\" \"bullet,\" \"cannon,\" \"slavery,\" \"mother\" or even \"Lincoln.\" \"You can only ignore what they're talking about for so long before you realize that's the story,\" Grinspan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Union soldiers were given 36 pounds of coffee a year by the government, and they made their daily brew everywhere and with everything: with water from canteens and puddles, brackish bays and Mississippi mud — liquid their horses would not drink. \"Soldiers would drink it before marches, after marches, on patrol, during combat,\" Grinspan tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110944\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 811px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50.jpg\" alt=\"A print shows Army of the Potomac soldiers waiting for coffee at a campfire in an encampment during the Civil War.\" width=\"811\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110944\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50.jpg 811w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-400x505.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-800x1010.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-768x970.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 811px) 100vw, 811px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A print shows Army of the Potomac soldiers waiting for coffee at a campfire in an encampment during the Civil War. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Confederacy, on the other hand, was decidedly less caffeinated. As soon as the war began, the Union blockaded Southern ports and cut off the South's access to coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Confederates had access to tobacco and Southern foods; Northern soldiers had access to coffee,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://andrewfsmith.com/\">Andrew F. Smith\u003c/a>, a professor of food studies at the New School in New York, and author of\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Starving-South-How-North-Civil/dp/0312601816\">\u003cem>Starving the South: How the North Won the Civil War\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"When there was not a battle going on, Confederate soldiers and Union soldiers met in the middle of fields and exchanged goods,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate Confederate soldiers would invent makeshift coffees, Grinspan tells us, roasting rye, rice, sweet potatoes or beets until they were dark, chocolaty and caramelized.The resulting brew contained no caffeine, but at least it was something warm and brown and consoling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the North's access to caffeine gave its soldiers a strategic advantage. At least that's what one Union officer, Gen. Benjamin Butler, thought. He ordered his men to carry coffee in their canteens and planned attacks based on when his men would be most wired. His advice to other generals was: \"If your men get their coffee early in the morning, you can hold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of the war, as the Union army grew, its camps became makeshift cities, housing hundreds of thousands of men. \"They were in battle maybe one or two weeks of the whole year,\" Grinspan says. Most of the time, he adds, \"they weren't shooting their rifles at enemies, being chased or fired upon, but every day they made coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1859 Sharps Rifle Co. began to manufacture a carbine with a hand-cranked grinder built into the butt stock — or handle — of the rifle. Union soldiers would fill the stock with beans, grind them up, dump them out and use the grounds to cook the coffee. As the morning began, one Civil War diarist described a scene of \"little campfires rapidly increasing to hundreds in numbers that would shoot up along the hills and plains.\" The encampment would buzz with the sound of thousands of grinders simultaneously crushing beans. Soon, tens of thousands of muckets (coffee pots) gurgled with fresh brew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Here's an irony,\" says Grinspan. \"These soldiers who were fighting ostensibly to end slavery are fueled by this coffee from slave fields in Brazil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Vietnam War\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Coffee may have powered the Union army during the Civil War, but during the Vietnam War, it fueled the GI anti-war movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 1960s and early '70s, as soldiers returning from Vietnam began to question the U.S. role in the war, GI coffeehouses sprung up in military towns outside bases across the country. They became a vital gathering place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Zeiger helped run the Oleo Strut, a GI coffeehouse outside Fort Hood in Killeen, Texas, for three years in the early 1970s. \"An oleo strut,\" he explains, \"is the vertical shock absorber on a helicopter. The concept of the GI coffeehouse was as a shock absorber, a place where GIs could get away from the military and say what they really felt,\" Zeiger says. In 2005, Zeiger, now a filmmaker, made \u003ca href=\"http://www.sirnosir.com/\">\u003cem>Sir, No Sir\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a documentary about the GI anti-war movement and the story of the Oleo Strut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first GI coffeehouse -- called UFO (a play on USO) -- opened in 1967, near Fort Jackson in Columbia, S.C. It was founded as a \"hangout for GIs\" by Fred Gardner, a Harvard grad who joined the Army reserves in 1963.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The UFO became a place where soldiers could gather and talk openly about their worries and frustrations, without the military brass around,\" Gardner recalls. And in Columbia, says Gardner, UFO was a rarity -- a place that \"not just black and white but students and soldiers\" could share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other GI coffeehouses followed — around two-dozen by 1971, by some accounts. They included the Shelter Half in Tacoma, Wash., near Fort Lewis; the Green Machine outside Camp Pendleton in San Diego; and Mad Anthony Wayne's in Waynesville, Mo., outside Fort Leonard, to name a few. As the anti-war movement heated up, these coffeehouses became places where GIs could get legal counseling on issues like going AWOL and obtaining conscientious objector status, and learn about ways to protest the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many coffeehouses also began publishing newspapers, with exposés on poor conditions within military prisons, op-eds from disillusioned soldiers and information about rallies and demonstrations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110945\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 999px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057.jpg\" alt=\"During the Vietnam War, GI coffeehouses located near military posts became a place for soldiers to gather and organize against the war. Since 2007, veterans of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan have revived this GI coffeehouse tradition in various locations.\" width=\"999\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110945\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057.jpg 999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-400x534.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-960x1281.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 999px) 100vw, 999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the Vietnam War, GI coffeehouses located near military posts became a place for soldiers to gather and organize against the war. Since 2007, veterans of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan have revived this GI coffeehouse tradition in various locations. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://justseeds.org/product/gi-coffeehouses/\">Courtesy of Molly Fair\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>GI coffeehouses caught the eye of those leading the anti-war movement in Hollywood. Actress Jane Fonda's anti-war road show, the FTA — an alternative to the USO shows that she created with Donald Sutherland — frequented the GI coffeehouses. The first time Fonda visited the Oleo Strut, the local newspaper had a big headline: \"Barbarella comes to Killeen, Texas\" (a reference to Fonda's role in a 1960s sci-fi cult film).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffeehouses also drew the attention of President Lyndon B. Johnson's administration, which monitored their \"subversive activities.\" In August 1968, Army Chief of Staff Gen. William Westmoreland sent LBJ a secret memo noting, \"consensus is that coffeehouses are not yet effectively interfering with significant military interests, and, consequently, suppressive action may be counter-productive,\" as sociologist Tom Wells details in his book \u003cem>The War Within.\u003c/em> The next month, however, Westmoreland reported to Johnson that several Oleo Strut frequenters had been arrested.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Afghanistan\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d.jpg\" alt=\"Harrison Suarez and Michael Haft met as Marines serving in Afghanistan. After their tour of duty, the two friends came back home and opened Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110946\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-1440x1079.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harrison Suarez and Michael Haft met as Marines serving in Afghanistan. After their tour of duty, the two friends came back home and opened Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Compass Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The military runs on coffee,\" says Harrison Suarez, co-founder of Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C. \"The Marines especially. It's this ritual.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suarez and Michael Haft, who started Compass together, \"first became friends in the Marines over coffee,\" Suarez says, \"learning how to navigate with a map and compass.\" On their first day of training in North Carolina, it was, \"Hey, Gunny, want to get together for a cup of coffee?\" recalls Suarez. \"That's how pretty much every new relationship in the Marines is formed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the war in Afghanistan intensified, both Suarez and Haft deployed there with the 1st Battalion, 9th Marines. One of their missions was to help develop the local police force and army. The two men tried to bond with their new Afghan partners over coffee, Suarez recalls, but the Afghans weren't having it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Any time we shared coffee with our Afghan partners, it was just a train wreck,\" Haft says. The Afghan culture is much more about tea. It was important to the friends to embrace local culture, so they quickly learned to stop pushing the java. Regardless of what was in the cups, the experience of gathering together over a hot drink and \"taking time to develop a rapport with your partners that you are fighting alongside holds the same,\" says Suarez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it was coffee that fueled the American troops stationed there, with Marines sharing morning brew with their platoon commanders as they all gathered to discuss the day's plans. As it was a century earlier, coffee became a ritual of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Haft and Suarez returned home after their deployment, their coffee obsession deepened. \"Everybody gets into something when they return home from the war. For us, it was coffee,\" says Haft. A quest to learn how to brew the perfect cup first led them to write a book, and eventually to open Compass Coffee, a roastery and community gathering place in northwest Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they haven't forgotten their time with the Marines, where their passion for coffee first took root. \"We've sent coffee to Marines on aircraft carriers, to Afghanistan,\" Haft says. \"Basically any time any soldier requested some crazy coffee delivery, we've done our best to accommodate getting it out to them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The business has started to expand quickly — there are now several branches of Compass throughout the city, and tins of Compass' signature roasts are available at several local grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we visited them at their flagship coffee shop in northwest D.C., the roaster was going strong and new equipment was being installed in the cupping room. The weekly schedule was posted in the staff room, designed using organizing strategies the two friends learned in the Marines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a cup of Compass brew, Suarez summed things up. \"Going back all the way to the Civil War and up to our experience in Afghanistan, you've got this common thread of people coming together, sharing their experience, their stories over coffee.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\"Nobody can soldier without coffee,\" a Union cavalryman wrote in 1865. \u003cem>Hidden Kitchens\u003c/em> looks at three American wars through the lens of coffee: the Civil War, Vietnam and Afghanistan.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1469482013,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":38,"wordCount":1826},"headData":{"title":"If War Is Hell, Then Coffee Has Offered U.S. Soldiers Some Salvation | KQED","description":""Nobody can soldier without coffee," a Union cavalryman wrote in 1865. Hidden Kitchens looks at three American wars through the lens of coffee: the Civil War, Vietnam and Afghanistan.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"If War Is Hell, Then Coffee Has Offered U.S. Soldiers Some Salvation","datePublished":"2016-07-25T21:26:53.000Z","dateModified":"2016-07-25T21:26:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"110942 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=110942","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/25/if-war-is-hell-then-coffee-has-offered-u-s-soldiers-some-salvation/","disqusTitle":"If War Is Hell, Then Coffee Has Offered U.S. Soldiers Some Salvation","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Lincoln Financial Foundation Collection/Flickr The Commons","nprStoryId":"485227943","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=485227943&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/07/25/485227943/if-war-is-hell-then-coffee-has-offered-u-s-soldiers-some-salvation?ft=nprml&f=485227943","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 25 Jul 2016 14:31:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 25 Jul 2016 05:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 25 Jul 2016 14:31:28 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160725_me_if_war_is_hell_then_coffee_has_offered_us_soldiers_some_salvation.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=418&p=3&story=485227943&t=progseg&e=487299478&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=485227943","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1487303122-576c5f.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=418&p=3&story=485227943&t=progseg&e=487299478&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=485227943","path":"/bayareabites/110942/if-war-is-hell-then-coffee-has-offered-u-s-soldiers-some-salvation","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160725_me_if_war_is_hell_then_coffee_has_offered_us_soldiers_some_salvation.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=418&p=3&story=485227943&t=progseg&e=487299478&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=485227943","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160725_me_if_war_is_hell_then_coffee_has_offered_us_soldiers_some_salvation.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In April 1865, at the bloody, bitter end of the Civil War, Ebenezer Nelson Gilpin, a Union cavalryman, wrote in his diary, \"Everything is chaos here. The suspense is almost unbearable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are reduced to quarter rations and no coffee,\" he continued. \"And nobody can soldier without coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If war is hell, then for many soldiers throughout American history, it is coffee that has offered some small salvation. \u003cem>Hidden Kitchens \u003c/em>looks at three American wars through the lens of coffee: the Civil War, Vietnam and Afghanistan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Civil War\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>War, freedom, slavery, secession, union — these are some of the big themes you might expect to find in the diaries of Civil War soldiers. At least, that's what \u003ca href=\"http://americanhistory.si.edu/profile/1214\">Jon Grinspan\u003c/a>, a curator at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, assumed when he began digging through war journals in the nation's Civil War archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I went looking for the big stories,\" Grinspan says. \"And all they kept talking about was the coffee they had for breakfast, or the coffee they wanted to have for breakfast.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word coffee was more present in these diaries than the words \"war,\" \"bullet,\" \"cannon,\" \"slavery,\" \"mother\" or even \"Lincoln.\" \"You can only ignore what they're talking about for so long before you realize that's the story,\" Grinspan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Union soldiers were given 36 pounds of coffee a year by the government, and they made their daily brew everywhere and with everything: with water from canteens and puddles, brackish bays and Mississippi mud — liquid their horses would not drink. \"Soldiers would drink it before marches, after marches, on patrol, during combat,\" Grinspan tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110944\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 811px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50.jpg\" alt=\"A print shows Army of the Potomac soldiers waiting for coffee at a campfire in an encampment during the Civil War.\" width=\"811\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110944\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50.jpg 811w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-400x505.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-800x1010.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffeecall_enl-a3d219a8b5b14024742285635cd43f5ce35bdf50-768x970.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 811px) 100vw, 811px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A print shows Army of the Potomac soldiers waiting for coffee at a campfire in an encampment during the Civil War. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Confederacy, on the other hand, was decidedly less caffeinated. As soon as the war began, the Union blockaded Southern ports and cut off the South's access to coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Confederates had access to tobacco and Southern foods; Northern soldiers had access to coffee,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://andrewfsmith.com/\">Andrew F. Smith\u003c/a>, a professor of food studies at the New School in New York, and author of\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Starving-South-How-North-Civil/dp/0312601816\">\u003cem>Starving the South: How the North Won the Civil War\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"When there was not a battle going on, Confederate soldiers and Union soldiers met in the middle of fields and exchanged goods,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate Confederate soldiers would invent makeshift coffees, Grinspan tells us, roasting rye, rice, sweet potatoes or beets until they were dark, chocolaty and caramelized.The resulting brew contained no caffeine, but at least it was something warm and brown and consoling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the North's access to caffeine gave its soldiers a strategic advantage. At least that's what one Union officer, Gen. Benjamin Butler, thought. He ordered his men to carry coffee in their canteens and planned attacks based on when his men would be most wired. His advice to other generals was: \"If your men get their coffee early in the morning, you can hold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of the war, as the Union army grew, its camps became makeshift cities, housing hundreds of thousands of men. \"They were in battle maybe one or two weeks of the whole year,\" Grinspan says. Most of the time, he adds, \"they weren't shooting their rifles at enemies, being chased or fired upon, but every day they made coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1859 Sharps Rifle Co. began to manufacture a carbine with a hand-cranked grinder built into the butt stock — or handle — of the rifle. Union soldiers would fill the stock with beans, grind them up, dump them out and use the grounds to cook the coffee. As the morning began, one Civil War diarist described a scene of \"little campfires rapidly increasing to hundreds in numbers that would shoot up along the hills and plains.\" The encampment would buzz with the sound of thousands of grinders simultaneously crushing beans. Soon, tens of thousands of muckets (coffee pots) gurgled with fresh brew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Here's an irony,\" says Grinspan. \"These soldiers who were fighting ostensibly to end slavery are fueled by this coffee from slave fields in Brazil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Vietnam War\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Coffee may have powered the Union army during the Civil War, but during the Vietnam War, it fueled the GI anti-war movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 1960s and early '70s, as soldiers returning from Vietnam began to question the U.S. role in the war, GI coffeehouses sprung up in military towns outside bases across the country. They became a vital gathering place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Zeiger helped run the Oleo Strut, a GI coffeehouse outside Fort Hood in Killeen, Texas, for three years in the early 1970s. \"An oleo strut,\" he explains, \"is the vertical shock absorber on a helicopter. The concept of the GI coffeehouse was as a shock absorber, a place where GIs could get away from the military and say what they really felt,\" Zeiger says. In 2005, Zeiger, now a filmmaker, made \u003ca href=\"http://www.sirnosir.com/\">\u003cem>Sir, No Sir\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a documentary about the GI anti-war movement and the story of the Oleo Strut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first GI coffeehouse -- called UFO (a play on USO) -- opened in 1967, near Fort Jackson in Columbia, S.C. It was founded as a \"hangout for GIs\" by Fred Gardner, a Harvard grad who joined the Army reserves in 1963.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The UFO became a place where soldiers could gather and talk openly about their worries and frustrations, without the military brass around,\" Gardner recalls. And in Columbia, says Gardner, UFO was a rarity -- a place that \"not just black and white but students and soldiers\" could share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other GI coffeehouses followed — around two-dozen by 1971, by some accounts. They included the Shelter Half in Tacoma, Wash., near Fort Lewis; the Green Machine outside Camp Pendleton in San Diego; and Mad Anthony Wayne's in Waynesville, Mo., outside Fort Leonard, to name a few. As the anti-war movement heated up, these coffeehouses became places where GIs could get legal counseling on issues like going AWOL and obtaining conscientious objector status, and learn about ways to protest the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many coffeehouses also began publishing newspapers, with exposés on poor conditions within military prisons, op-eds from disillusioned soldiers and information about rallies and demonstrations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110945\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 999px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057.jpg\" alt=\"During the Vietnam War, GI coffeehouses located near military posts became a place for soldiers to gather and organize against the war. Since 2007, veterans of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan have revived this GI coffeehouse tradition in various locations.\" width=\"999\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110945\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057.jpg 999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-400x534.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/gi_coffeehouses-molly_fair_enl-a147e5e500c7eeb3afa8cb64b129a67bbcc34057-960x1281.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 999px) 100vw, 999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the Vietnam War, GI coffeehouses located near military posts became a place for soldiers to gather and organize against the war. Since 2007, veterans of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan have revived this GI coffeehouse tradition in various locations. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://justseeds.org/product/gi-coffeehouses/\">Courtesy of Molly Fair\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>GI coffeehouses caught the eye of those leading the anti-war movement in Hollywood. Actress Jane Fonda's anti-war road show, the FTA — an alternative to the USO shows that she created with Donald Sutherland — frequented the GI coffeehouses. The first time Fonda visited the Oleo Strut, the local newspaper had a big headline: \"Barbarella comes to Killeen, Texas\" (a reference to Fonda's role in a 1960s sci-fi cult film).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffeehouses also drew the attention of President Lyndon B. Johnson's administration, which monitored their \"subversive activities.\" In August 1968, Army Chief of Staff Gen. William Westmoreland sent LBJ a secret memo noting, \"consensus is that coffeehouses are not yet effectively interfering with significant military interests, and, consequently, suppressive action may be counter-productive,\" as sociologist Tom Wells details in his book \u003cem>The War Within.\u003c/em> The next month, however, Westmoreland reported to Johnson that several Oleo Strut frequenters had been arrested.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Afghanistan\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d.jpg\" alt=\"Harrison Suarez and Michael Haft met as Marines serving in Afghanistan. After their tour of duty, the two friends came back home and opened Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110946\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-1440x1079.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/coffee_hmmwv-credit-compass-coffee-1-_enl-3998503885abb8097cc372da29a8bdf742a08f6d-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harrison Suarez and Michael Haft met as Marines serving in Afghanistan. After their tour of duty, the two friends came back home and opened Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Compass Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The military runs on coffee,\" says Harrison Suarez, co-founder of Compass Coffee in Washington, D.C. \"The Marines especially. It's this ritual.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suarez and Michael Haft, who started Compass together, \"first became friends in the Marines over coffee,\" Suarez says, \"learning how to navigate with a map and compass.\" On their first day of training in North Carolina, it was, \"Hey, Gunny, want to get together for a cup of coffee?\" recalls Suarez. \"That's how pretty much every new relationship in the Marines is formed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the war in Afghanistan intensified, both Suarez and Haft deployed there with the 1st Battalion, 9th Marines. One of their missions was to help develop the local police force and army. The two men tried to bond with their new Afghan partners over coffee, Suarez recalls, but the Afghans weren't having it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Any time we shared coffee with our Afghan partners, it was just a train wreck,\" Haft says. The Afghan culture is much more about tea. It was important to the friends to embrace local culture, so they quickly learned to stop pushing the java. Regardless of what was in the cups, the experience of gathering together over a hot drink and \"taking time to develop a rapport with your partners that you are fighting alongside holds the same,\" says Suarez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it was coffee that fueled the American troops stationed there, with Marines sharing morning brew with their platoon commanders as they all gathered to discuss the day's plans. As it was a century earlier, coffee became a ritual of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Haft and Suarez returned home after their deployment, their coffee obsession deepened. \"Everybody gets into something when they return home from the war. For us, it was coffee,\" says Haft. A quest to learn how to brew the perfect cup first led them to write a book, and eventually to open Compass Coffee, a roastery and community gathering place in northwest Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they haven't forgotten their time with the Marines, where their passion for coffee first took root. \"We've sent coffee to Marines on aircraft carriers, to Afghanistan,\" Haft says. \"Basically any time any soldier requested some crazy coffee delivery, we've done our best to accommodate getting it out to them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The business has started to expand quickly — there are now several branches of Compass throughout the city, and tins of Compass' signature roasts are available at several local grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we visited them at their flagship coffee shop in northwest D.C., the roaster was going strong and new equipment was being installed in the cupping room. The weekly schedule was posted in the staff room, designed using organizing strategies the two friends learned in the Marines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a cup of Compass brew, Suarez summed things up. \"Going back all the way to the Civil War and up to our experience in Afghanistan, you've got this common thread of people coming together, sharing their experience, their stories over coffee.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/110942/if-war-is-hell-then-coffee-has-offered-u-s-soldiers-some-salvation","authors":["byline_bayareabites_110942"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_125","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_11369"],"featImg":"bayareabites_110943","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102996":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102996","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102996","score":null,"sort":[1446836431000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","title":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion","publishDate":1446836431,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In the new Meryl Streep period movie \u003cem>Suffragette\u003c/em>, Englishwomen march on the streets, smash shop windows and stage sit-ins to demand the vote. Less well-known is that across the pond, a less cinematic resistance was being staged via that most humble vehicle: the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1886, when the first American suffragist cookbook was published, and 1920, when the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution granted women the right to vote, there were at least a half-dozen cookbooks published by suffragette associations in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These books were the descendants of the post-Civil War charity cookbooks, published to raise funds for war victims and church-related issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suffrage cookbooks came garnished with propaganda for the Great Cause: the fight for getting women the right to vote. Recipes ranged from basic guidelines on brewing tea and boiling rice, to epicurean ones for Almond Parfait and the ever-popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Lady-Baltimore-Cake-\">Lady Baltimore Cake\u003c/a>, a layered Southern confection draped in boiled meringue frosting. Occasionally, there was a startling entry, such as that for Emergency Salad: one-tenth of an onion and nine-tenths of an apple with any salad dressing. But the bulk comprised a soothing flow of soups, gravies, breads, roasts, pies, omelets, salads, pickles and puddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some might ask: What were feminists doing printing cookbooks? Wasn't their whole movement aimed at empowering women beyond home and hearth?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women used what they knew, what they could to champion their causes,\" eminent culinary archivist Jan Longone explained during a 2008\u003ca href=\"http://lecb.physics.lsa.umich.edu/wl/carma/2008/20080921-clements/20080921-umwlcd0011-150544/flash.html\"> lecture \u003c/a>at the University of Michigan, where she is adjunct curator of the \u003ca href=\"http://clements.umich.edu/longone-archive.php\">Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive\u003c/a>. \"If that meant baking a cake or cooking a dinner or writing a cookbook, they did that. I need not remind the audience that for most of the 19th century, a woman had no control over her own money, her own children, her own destiny.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103023\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 426px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg\" alt='Cover of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\"' width=\"426\" height=\"652\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg 426w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85-400x612.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cover of \u003ca href=\"http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/books/book_43.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">The Woman Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/a>, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections/Michigan State University Libraries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as Longone points out, these cookbooks were also a strategic rebuttal to the snide jokes and hurtful innuendo directed against suffragists, who were painted as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans, busy politicking while their children starved. The assertion these books sought to buttress was that \"good cooking and sure voting went hand in hand,\" to quote the 1909 \u003cem>Washington Women's Cook Book\u003c/em>, which opened with the couplet:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Give us the vote and we will cook\u003cbr> The Better for a wide outlook\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>On Dec. 13, 1886, America's first suffragist cookbook, \u003cem>The Woman's Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/em>, was launched on a drizzly but sold-out evening at a fundraiser at the Boston music hall. The hall was decorated with a white banner bearing the Massachusetts Woman Suffrage Association motto, \"Male and female created He them, and gave them dominion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members included the novelist Louisa May Alcott, who would become the first woman registered to vote in Concord. Though she hadn't contributed a recipe, Alcott had just published \u003cem>Jo's Boys\u003c/em>, the final book of her \u003cem>Little Women\u003c/em> series, into which she had slipped in a droll description of a statue of Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, sporting a \"Women's Rights\" slogan on her shield and a helmet ornamented with \"a tiny pestle and mortar\" — a divine nod to the compatibility between cooking and voting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes were contributed by regular housewives who carried a \"Mrs.\" before their name, as well as a parade of prominent suffragists who didn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish Stew, for instance, came courtesy of Cora Scott Pond, a militant prohibitionist (she declined fermented communion wine) and real-estate investor who had refused to wear a corset starting at the age of 16.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist Alice Bunker Stockham, the fifth woman to become a licensed doctor in the U.S., sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake, which called for the cake to be split and infused with strawberry or raspberry juice, then filled with boiled custard to make a sort of \"French pie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time – pro-masturbation. She publicly endorsed it as healthy for both men and women. Her unorthodox stand positioned her as the antithesis to Sylvester Graham, the Presbyterian reformer who believed \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/01/looking-to-quell-sexual-urges-consider-the-graham-cracker/282769/\">rich food inflamed sexual appetite\u003c/a>, and who invented the Graham cracker (made with unrefined flour) to help Americans tame their sexual desires. By the Rev. Graham's standards, the Coraline Cake was positively orgiastic.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia A. Kellogg, star student of novelist Henry James' father, contributed a veal sausage recipe. Though Henry James Sr. was in favor of universal suffrage, he forecast that \"women wouldn't avail themselves of it when it was granted.\" When Kellogg disagreed, they quarreled, according to Alfred Habegger's \u003cem>Henry James\u003c/em> \u003cem>and the 'Woman Business.'\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103025\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anna Ella Carroll,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a political writer\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Maryland\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>who freed her slaves when Abraham Lincoln was elected president, and who advised him during the Civil War, sent in gruesomely explicit advice for Terrapin Soup. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/history-of-turtle-soup-hunting\" target=\"_blank\">Turtle soup \u003c/a>was once an American delicacy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Decidedly, the terrapin has to be killed before cooking, and the killing is no easy matter,\" she wrote. \"The head must be cut off, and, as the sight is peculiarly acute, the cook must exercise great ingenuity in concealing the weapon.\" The decapitated terrapin was then to be \"boiled until the feet can be easily pulled off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sold at fairs, bazaars and women's exchanges, these cookbooks not only raised funds for the suffrage movement, says Longone, but also\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>helped women network, and gain new skills in the fields of publishing, advertising and sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1891, the Equal Suffrage Association of Rockford, Ill., published \u003cem>The Holiday Gift Cook Book\u003c/em>. At the time, the state's constitutional law stated: \"Idiots, lunatics, paupers, felons and women shall not be entitled to vote.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 3391px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg\" alt=\"Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement.\" width=\"3391\" height=\"2546\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg 3391w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-800x601.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1440x1081.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1180x886.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-960x721.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3391px) 100vw, 3391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement. \u003ccite>(Paul Thompson/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes were interspersed with pro-suffrage quotes by famous people such as British politician William Gladstone and abolitionist author Harriet Beecher Stowe. \"Of these, the most poignant plea is that of Clara Barton, founder of the American Red Cross,\" says Longone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barton, a legendary Civil War nurse known as the \"Angel of the Battlefield,\" wrote, \"When you were sick and wounded I toiled for you on the battlefield. Because of my work for you, I ask your aid. I ask the ballot for myself and my sex. As I stood by you, I pray you stand by me and mine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most fascinating of these cookbooks came from Pittsburgh in 1915. \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book \u003c/em>was a sumptuous cake layered with recipes, celebrity endorsements, photographs and saucy jokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blue cover featured a silhouette of Uncle Sam piloting the ship of state with a wheel that has only 12.5 spokes. \"The 12 spokes were for those states where women could vote before the 19th Amendment — all Western states,\" explained Longone. \"The half-spoke was for Illinois, which, at the time, allowed women to vote only in school board elections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg\" alt=\"Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for "Graham Bread" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association.\" width=\"400\" height=\"368\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-800x736.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1440x1326.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1180x1086.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-960x884.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for \"Graham Bread\" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association. \u003ccite>(Schlesinger Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Its pages were sprinkled with recipes carrying playful titles like \"Hymen Cake,\" \"Mother's Election Cake,\" \"Suffrage Salad Dressing,\" \"Suffrage Angel Cake\" and \"Parliament Gingerbread (With apologies to the English Suffragists).\" There were satirical recipes, too, such as \"Pie for a Suffragist's Doubting Husband,\" whose ingredients made for a doleful litany:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>1 qt. milk human kindness\u003cbr> 8 reasons:\u003cbr> War\u003cbr> White Slavery\u003cbr> Child Labor\u003cbr> 8,000,000 Working Women\u003cbr> Bad Roads\u003cbr> Poisonous Water\u003cbr> Impure Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the crust with tact and velvet gloves, using no sarcasm, especially with the upper crust. Upper crusts must be handled with extreme care, for they quickly sour if manipulated roughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Another recipe, for \"Anti's Favorite Hash\" — \"anti\" being shorthand for those against the Great Cause — called for a generous handful of injustice, a pound of truth thoroughly mangled, a little vitriol for tang, and a string of nonsense to be stirred with a sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The contributors were all women, apart from a few celebrity male feminists like writer Jack London, who sent in two recipes: roast duck (\"the plucked bird should be stuffed with a tight handful of plain raw celery\"), and a version of stuffed celery, which called for Roquefort cheese, softened with butter and sherry, to be \"squeezed into the troughs\" of the celery sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exhibiting political savvy, \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book's \u003c/em>editor, Mrs. L.O. Kleber, had invited endorsements from governors of eight states that had passed female suffrage laws (Wyoming, Arizona, California, Kansas, Idaho, Illinois, Washington and Oregon). These eminences were fulsome in their praise of women as intelligent, diligent and patriotic voters — but only up to a point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Idaho Gov. Moses Alexander wrote: \"The impression that Woman Suffrage inspires an ambition in women to seek and hold public office is altogether wrong. The contrary is true.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hillary Clinton, Nancy Pelosi, Jan Brewer, Nikki Haley and a host of other women would surely chuckle at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Women seeking the right to vote published the cookbooks both to raise funds for their cause — and as a strategic rebuttal to those who painted them as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1446837852,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":1664},"headData":{"title":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion | KQED","description":"Women seeking the right to vote published the cookbooks both to raise funds for their cause — and as a strategic rebuttal to those who painted them as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion","datePublished":"2015-11-06T19:00:31.000Z","dateModified":"2015-11-06T19:24:12.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"102996 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102996","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/06/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion/","disqusTitle":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"454246666","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=454246666&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/05/454246666/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion?ft=nprml&f=454246666","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 14:40:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 11:25:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 14:40:50 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/102996/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the new Meryl Streep period movie \u003cem>Suffragette\u003c/em>, Englishwomen march on the streets, smash shop windows and stage sit-ins to demand the vote. Less well-known is that across the pond, a less cinematic resistance was being staged via that most humble vehicle: the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1886, when the first American suffragist cookbook was published, and 1920, when the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution granted women the right to vote, there were at least a half-dozen cookbooks published by suffragette associations in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These books were the descendants of the post-Civil War charity cookbooks, published to raise funds for war victims and church-related issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suffrage cookbooks came garnished with propaganda for the Great Cause: the fight for getting women the right to vote. Recipes ranged from basic guidelines on brewing tea and boiling rice, to epicurean ones for Almond Parfait and the ever-popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Lady-Baltimore-Cake-\">Lady Baltimore Cake\u003c/a>, a layered Southern confection draped in boiled meringue frosting. Occasionally, there was a startling entry, such as that for Emergency Salad: one-tenth of an onion and nine-tenths of an apple with any salad dressing. But the bulk comprised a soothing flow of soups, gravies, breads, roasts, pies, omelets, salads, pickles and puddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some might ask: What were feminists doing printing cookbooks? Wasn't their whole movement aimed at empowering women beyond home and hearth?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women used what they knew, what they could to champion their causes,\" eminent culinary archivist Jan Longone explained during a 2008\u003ca href=\"http://lecb.physics.lsa.umich.edu/wl/carma/2008/20080921-clements/20080921-umwlcd0011-150544/flash.html\"> lecture \u003c/a>at the University of Michigan, where she is adjunct curator of the \u003ca href=\"http://clements.umich.edu/longone-archive.php\">Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive\u003c/a>. \"If that meant baking a cake or cooking a dinner or writing a cookbook, they did that. I need not remind the audience that for most of the 19th century, a woman had no control over her own money, her own children, her own destiny.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103023\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 426px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg\" alt='Cover of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\"' width=\"426\" height=\"652\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg 426w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85-400x612.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cover of \u003ca href=\"http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/books/book_43.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">The Woman Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/a>, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections/Michigan State University Libraries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as Longone points out, these cookbooks were also a strategic rebuttal to the snide jokes and hurtful innuendo directed against suffragists, who were painted as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans, busy politicking while their children starved. The assertion these books sought to buttress was that \"good cooking and sure voting went hand in hand,\" to quote the 1909 \u003cem>Washington Women's Cook Book\u003c/em>, which opened with the couplet:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Give us the vote and we will cook\u003cbr> The Better for a wide outlook\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>On Dec. 13, 1886, America's first suffragist cookbook, \u003cem>The Woman's Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/em>, was launched on a drizzly but sold-out evening at a fundraiser at the Boston music hall. The hall was decorated with a white banner bearing the Massachusetts Woman Suffrage Association motto, \"Male and female created He them, and gave them dominion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members included the novelist Louisa May Alcott, who would become the first woman registered to vote in Concord. Though she hadn't contributed a recipe, Alcott had just published \u003cem>Jo's Boys\u003c/em>, the final book of her \u003cem>Little Women\u003c/em> series, into which she had slipped in a droll description of a statue of Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, sporting a \"Women's Rights\" slogan on her shield and a helmet ornamented with \"a tiny pestle and mortar\" — a divine nod to the compatibility between cooking and voting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes were contributed by regular housewives who carried a \"Mrs.\" before their name, as well as a parade of prominent suffragists who didn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish Stew, for instance, came courtesy of Cora Scott Pond, a militant prohibitionist (she declined fermented communion wine) and real-estate investor who had refused to wear a corset starting at the age of 16.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist Alice Bunker Stockham, the fifth woman to become a licensed doctor in the U.S., sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake, which called for the cake to be split and infused with strawberry or raspberry juice, then filled with boiled custard to make a sort of \"French pie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time – pro-masturbation. She publicly endorsed it as healthy for both men and women. Her unorthodox stand positioned her as the antithesis to Sylvester Graham, the Presbyterian reformer who believed \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/01/looking-to-quell-sexual-urges-consider-the-graham-cracker/282769/\">rich food inflamed sexual appetite\u003c/a>, and who invented the Graham cracker (made with unrefined flour) to help Americans tame their sexual desires. By the Rev. Graham's standards, the Coraline Cake was positively orgiastic.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia A. Kellogg, star student of novelist Henry James' father, contributed a veal sausage recipe. Though Henry James Sr. was in favor of universal suffrage, he forecast that \"women wouldn't avail themselves of it when it was granted.\" When Kellogg disagreed, they quarreled, according to Alfred Habegger's \u003cem>Henry James\u003c/em> \u003cem>and the 'Woman Business.'\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103025\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anna Ella Carroll,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a political writer\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Maryland\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>who freed her slaves when Abraham Lincoln was elected president, and who advised him during the Civil War, sent in gruesomely explicit advice for Terrapin Soup. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/history-of-turtle-soup-hunting\" target=\"_blank\">Turtle soup \u003c/a>was once an American delicacy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Decidedly, the terrapin has to be killed before cooking, and the killing is no easy matter,\" she wrote. \"The head must be cut off, and, as the sight is peculiarly acute, the cook must exercise great ingenuity in concealing the weapon.\" The decapitated terrapin was then to be \"boiled until the feet can be easily pulled off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sold at fairs, bazaars and women's exchanges, these cookbooks not only raised funds for the suffrage movement, says Longone, but also\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>helped women network, and gain new skills in the fields of publishing, advertising and sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1891, the Equal Suffrage Association of Rockford, Ill., published \u003cem>The Holiday Gift Cook Book\u003c/em>. At the time, the state's constitutional law stated: \"Idiots, lunatics, paupers, felons and women shall not be entitled to vote.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 3391px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg\" alt=\"Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement.\" width=\"3391\" height=\"2546\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg 3391w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-800x601.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1440x1081.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1180x886.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-960x721.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3391px) 100vw, 3391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement. \u003ccite>(Paul Thompson/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes were interspersed with pro-suffrage quotes by famous people such as British politician William Gladstone and abolitionist author Harriet Beecher Stowe. \"Of these, the most poignant plea is that of Clara Barton, founder of the American Red Cross,\" says Longone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barton, a legendary Civil War nurse known as the \"Angel of the Battlefield,\" wrote, \"When you were sick and wounded I toiled for you on the battlefield. Because of my work for you, I ask your aid. I ask the ballot for myself and my sex. As I stood by you, I pray you stand by me and mine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most fascinating of these cookbooks came from Pittsburgh in 1915. \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book \u003c/em>was a sumptuous cake layered with recipes, celebrity endorsements, photographs and saucy jokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blue cover featured a silhouette of Uncle Sam piloting the ship of state with a wheel that has only 12.5 spokes. \"The 12 spokes were for those states where women could vote before the 19th Amendment — all Western states,\" explained Longone. \"The half-spoke was for Illinois, which, at the time, allowed women to vote only in school board elections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg\" alt=\"Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for "Graham Bread" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association.\" width=\"400\" height=\"368\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-800x736.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1440x1326.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1180x1086.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-960x884.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for \"Graham Bread\" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association. \u003ccite>(Schlesinger Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Its pages were sprinkled with recipes carrying playful titles like \"Hymen Cake,\" \"Mother's Election Cake,\" \"Suffrage Salad Dressing,\" \"Suffrage Angel Cake\" and \"Parliament Gingerbread (With apologies to the English Suffragists).\" There were satirical recipes, too, such as \"Pie for a Suffragist's Doubting Husband,\" whose ingredients made for a doleful litany:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>1 qt. milk human kindness\u003cbr> 8 reasons:\u003cbr> War\u003cbr> White Slavery\u003cbr> Child Labor\u003cbr> 8,000,000 Working Women\u003cbr> Bad Roads\u003cbr> Poisonous Water\u003cbr> Impure Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the crust with tact and velvet gloves, using no sarcasm, especially with the upper crust. Upper crusts must be handled with extreme care, for they quickly sour if manipulated roughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Another recipe, for \"Anti's Favorite Hash\" — \"anti\" being shorthand for those against the Great Cause — called for a generous handful of injustice, a pound of truth thoroughly mangled, a little vitriol for tang, and a string of nonsense to be stirred with a sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The contributors were all women, apart from a few celebrity male feminists like writer Jack London, who sent in two recipes: roast duck (\"the plucked bird should be stuffed with a tight handful of plain raw celery\"), and a version of stuffed celery, which called for Roquefort cheese, softened with butter and sherry, to be \"squeezed into the troughs\" of the celery sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exhibiting political savvy, \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book's \u003c/em>editor, Mrs. L.O. Kleber, had invited endorsements from governors of eight states that had passed female suffrage laws (Wyoming, Arizona, California, Kansas, Idaho, Illinois, Washington and Oregon). These eminences were fulsome in their praise of women as intelligent, diligent and patriotic voters — but only up to a point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Idaho Gov. Moses Alexander wrote: \"The impression that Woman Suffrage inspires an ambition in women to seek and hold public office is altogether wrong. The contrary is true.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hillary Clinton, Nancy Pelosi, Jan Brewer, Nikki Haley and a host of other women would surely chuckle at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102996/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102996"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_112","bayareabites_15045","bayareabites_15046","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_15047","bayareabites_15043","bayareabites_15044","bayareabites_15049","bayareabites_15048"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102997","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_94763":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_94763","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"94763","score":null,"sort":[1428465070000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire","title":"Tea Tuesdays: How Tea + Sugar Reshaped The British Empire","publishDate":1428465070,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Coffee and tea both landed in the British isles in the 1600s. In fact, java even got a head start of about a decade. And yet, a century later, tea was well on its way to becoming a daily habit for millions of Britons — which it remains to this day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did tea emerge as Britain's hot beverage of choice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short answer: Tea met sugar, forming a power couple that altered the course of history. It was a marriage shaped by fashion, health fads and global economics. And the growing taste for sweetened tea also helped fuel one of the worst blights on human history: the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Princess And The Tea\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94785\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine of Braganza was an early celebrity endorser of tea. After she wed Charles II, the fad for tea took off among the British nobility.\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-400x589.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-800x1178.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-1180x1737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-768x1131.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-320x471.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine of Braganza was an early celebrity endorser of tea. After she wed Charles II, the fad for tea took off among the British nobility. \u003ccite>(Corbis/Lebrecht Music & Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tea was practically unknown in Europe until the mid-1600s. But in England, it got an early PR boost from Catherine of Braganza, a celebrity who became its ambassador: The Portuguese royal favored the infusion, and when she married England's Charles II in 1662, tea became the \"it\" drink among the British upper classes. But it might have faded as a passing fad if not for another favorite nibble of the nobility: sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1500s and 1600s, sugar was the \"object of a sustained vogue in northern Europe,\" historian Woodruff Smith \u003ca href=\"http://www.jstor.org/discover/10.2307/205276?uid=3739256&uid=3&uid=60&uid=390977301&uid=2134&uid=2&uid=3739584&uid=70&uid=390977311&purchase-type=both&accessType=none&sid=21105915672651&showMyJstorPss=false&seq=1&showAccess=false\">wrote\u003c/a> in a 1992 paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar was expensive and relatively rare, making it a perfect object of conspicuous consumption for status-chasing elites. Shaped into elaborate sculptures, mixed into wines, sprinkled on tarts and on glazed roasted meats — sugar was a much noted feature of upper-class life, says Smith, a professor emeritus at the University of Massachusetts, Boston who has studied the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Consumption-Making-Respectability-1600-1800-Woodruff/dp/0415933293\">history of consumption\u003c/a>. Cookbooks of the late 16th and early 17th century even treated sugar as a sort of drug to help balance the \"humors\" — energies that were believed to affect health and mood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came the backlash: In the late 1600s, doctors started warning about the perils of sugar — it was blamed (correctly) for rotting teeth and (incorrectly) causing gout, among other ills — and it began to fall out of style among the rich and fabulous, Smith tells The Salt. Suddenly, sugar was the demon du jour. By around 1700, the word on sugar was no longer ostentation but moderation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Clean Eating, Circa Late-1600s\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94764\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/the_anatomy_lesson_custom-7d24440fd034d252ba2b1af69a6dcfb3dbc0800b-e1428464129663.jpg\" alt=\"The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp by Rembrandt, 1632. Here, Tulp explains musculature matters. Elsewhere, the good doctor was promoting the health virtues of tea.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1438\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp\u003c/em> by Rembrandt, 1632. Here, Tulp explains musculature matters. Elsewhere, the good doctor was promoting the health virtues of tea. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, lots of people were writing about the health benefits of tea, Smith says — including Nicholaes Tulp, a famed, well-connected Dutch physician immortalized in Rembrandt's painting \u003cem>The Anatomy Lesson.\u003c/em> (Perhaps not coincidentally, Smith notes, Tulp \"probably served on the board of directors of the Dutch East India Company\" — which was, of course, importing tea.) Some enthusiasts suggested tea could induce the \"constant sluicing of the body by drinking tens or hundreds of cups daily,\" Woodruff writes. Tea detox, anyone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out that self-help books were popular back then, too, and one of the most influential practitioners of the form was an English writer named Thomas Tryon, who had lots of theories on nutrition. (His followers included a \u003ca href=\"http://pediatrics.aappublications.org/content/52/2/271.abstract\">young Benjamin Franklin\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tryon had a love-hate relationship with sugar. He'd been to plantations in the West Indies and was horrified by the system of slavery under which sugar cane was grown. But he also believed that anything that made people feel as good as sugar does must have some intrinsic health value. A dollop of sugar in a nonalcoholic, herbal infusion was a good way to get a hit of sweetness without going overboard, he thought. While Tryon didn't specify which infusion to use for this healthful concoction, \"tea was the most obvious one,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such health notions, Smith says, help explain why, by the 1720s and 1730s, the custom of taking tea with sugar had taken hold among the British upper and middle classes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Birth Of A Global Economy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interestingly, Smith notes, there's evidence that much of the same health claims were being made about coffee around the turn of the 18th century. But coffee came from countries like Yemen and Eritrea — \"places beyond European control and with little capacity to expand production,\" Smith writes. So when demand for coffee rose, prices did, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea, on the other hand, came from China — which had in place a sophisticated commerce system that could respond quickly to rising demand, Smith says. That demand was coming from the British and Dutch East India companies, which were already in China buying spices, silks and other goods for trade. As interest in tea grew back home, Smith says, the companies were in good position to ship large, reliable quantities at affordable prices \"and therefore make tea a popular fad — and beyond a fad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What you're seeing is the global economy being constructed,\" Smith says. \"It's these two companies as the vanguard of modern capitalism.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As \u003ca href=\"http://simplify-your-vibrations.tumblr.com/post/49217897598\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lord Beckett\u003c/a>, the villainous, tea-and-sugar-sipping agent of the British East India Company in the \u003cem>Pirates of Caribbean\u003c/em> movies might have put it, \"it's just good business.\" (Such good business, of course, that, in the 19th century, the company went on to \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/10/392116370/tea-tuesdays-the-scottish-spy-who-stole-chinas-tea-empire\">steal the secrets\u003c/a> of tea production from China to establish a tea empire in India.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fuel For The Industrial Revolution\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea and sugar proved good for business in another sense: as a cheap source of calories for the working classes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beer and cider had long been the drink of choice for the working poor, notes food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachellaudan.com/\">Rachel Laudan\u003c/a>. With good reason: The drinks were calorific, and the alcohol was mildly analgesic — both necessary when your days were filled with grinding labor. \"Of course, that came at the cost of alertness,\" Laudan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as the Industrial Revolution got underway beginning in the mid-1700s, the working classes gave up the plow and headed to the factory, where showing up tipsy wasn't exactly a way to get ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea sweetened with a strong dose of sugar was an affordable luxury: It gave workers a hit of caffeine to get through a long slog of a day, it provided cheap calories, and it offered the comfort of warmth during a meal that otherwise often consisted only of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Paying For Empire In Tea And Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of tea and sugar as a power duo was a boon for British government coffers. By the mid-1700s, tea imports accounted for one-tenth of overall tax income, says Laudan, a visiting professor at the University of Texas, Austin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94765\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/east_indiaman_warley_custom-d678c1595671139b762d9751ea0e036cab58156c-e1428464451824.jpg\" alt=\"The Warley, a ship belonging to the British East India Company at the turn of the 19th century\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1205\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Warley, a ship belonging to the British East India Company at the turn of the 19th century \u003ccite>(Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As for sugar? According to one analysis, Laudan notes, in the 1760s, the annual duties on sugar imports were \"enough to pay to maintain all ships in the navy.\" A great deal of that sugar, historians say, was being stirred into tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those tea-and-sugar monies helped supply the British navy with better foodstuffs, Laudan says, including vegetables when available. And that navy was key to spreading British might across the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's this dominance of the British navy that allows Britain to become the major colonial power in 19th century,\" Laudan tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all this growth came at a terrible human price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Smith notes, the fad for tea came in just as sugar was under attack and had started to fall out of favor. By creating a new and lasting use for this sweetener, tea helped buoy demand for sugar from the West Indies. \"And indeed, it continued to support the expansion of slavery there,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the next time you finding yourself sipping a nice warm cup, consider how something as simple as a drink can shape events half a world away. Even today, our edibles aren't just about appetite — the palatable is political.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"When tea met sugar, they formed a power couple that altered the course of history. It was a marriage shaped by fashion, health fads and global economics. And it doomed millions of Africans to slavery.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1554327593,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":1370},"headData":{"title":"Tea Tuesdays: How Tea + Sugar Reshaped The British Empire | KQED","description":"When tea met sugar, they formed a power couple that altered the course of history. It was a marriage shaped by fashion, health fads and global economics. And it doomed millions of Africans to slavery.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tea Tuesdays: How Tea + Sugar Reshaped The British Empire","datePublished":"2015-04-08T03:51:10.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-03T21:39:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"94763 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=94763","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/04/07/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire/","disqusTitle":"Tea Tuesdays: How Tea + Sugar Reshaped The British Empire","nprByline":"Maria Godoy","nprStoryId":"396664685","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=396664685&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/04/07/396664685/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire?ft=nprml&f=396664685","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2015 19:45:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:45:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2015 19:45:23 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/94763/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Coffee and tea both landed in the British isles in the 1600s. In fact, java even got a head start of about a decade. And yet, a century later, tea was well on its way to becoming a daily habit for millions of Britons — which it remains to this day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did tea emerge as Britain's hot beverage of choice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short answer: Tea met sugar, forming a power couple that altered the course of history. It was a marriage shaped by fashion, health fads and global economics. And the growing taste for sweetened tea also helped fuel one of the worst blights on human history: the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Princess And The Tea\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94785\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine of Braganza was an early celebrity endorser of tea. After she wed Charles II, the fad for tea took off among the British nobility.\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-400x589.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-800x1178.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-1180x1737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-768x1131.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/tea-catherine-braganza-320x471.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine of Braganza was an early celebrity endorser of tea. After she wed Charles II, the fad for tea took off among the British nobility. \u003ccite>(Corbis/Lebrecht Music & Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tea was practically unknown in Europe until the mid-1600s. But in England, it got an early PR boost from Catherine of Braganza, a celebrity who became its ambassador: The Portuguese royal favored the infusion, and when she married England's Charles II in 1662, tea became the \"it\" drink among the British upper classes. But it might have faded as a passing fad if not for another favorite nibble of the nobility: sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1500s and 1600s, sugar was the \"object of a sustained vogue in northern Europe,\" historian Woodruff Smith \u003ca href=\"http://www.jstor.org/discover/10.2307/205276?uid=3739256&uid=3&uid=60&uid=390977301&uid=2134&uid=2&uid=3739584&uid=70&uid=390977311&purchase-type=both&accessType=none&sid=21105915672651&showMyJstorPss=false&seq=1&showAccess=false\">wrote\u003c/a> in a 1992 paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar was expensive and relatively rare, making it a perfect object of conspicuous consumption for status-chasing elites. Shaped into elaborate sculptures, mixed into wines, sprinkled on tarts and on glazed roasted meats — sugar was a much noted feature of upper-class life, says Smith, a professor emeritus at the University of Massachusetts, Boston who has studied the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Consumption-Making-Respectability-1600-1800-Woodruff/dp/0415933293\">history of consumption\u003c/a>. Cookbooks of the late 16th and early 17th century even treated sugar as a sort of drug to help balance the \"humors\" — energies that were believed to affect health and mood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came the backlash: In the late 1600s, doctors started warning about the perils of sugar — it was blamed (correctly) for rotting teeth and (incorrectly) causing gout, among other ills — and it began to fall out of style among the rich and fabulous, Smith tells The Salt. Suddenly, sugar was the demon du jour. By around 1700, the word on sugar was no longer ostentation but moderation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Clean Eating, Circa Late-1600s\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94764\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/the_anatomy_lesson_custom-7d24440fd034d252ba2b1af69a6dcfb3dbc0800b-e1428464129663.jpg\" alt=\"The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp by Rembrandt, 1632. Here, Tulp explains musculature matters. Elsewhere, the good doctor was promoting the health virtues of tea.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1438\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp\u003c/em> by Rembrandt, 1632. Here, Tulp explains musculature matters. Elsewhere, the good doctor was promoting the health virtues of tea. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, lots of people were writing about the health benefits of tea, Smith says — including Nicholaes Tulp, a famed, well-connected Dutch physician immortalized in Rembrandt's painting \u003cem>The Anatomy Lesson.\u003c/em> (Perhaps not coincidentally, Smith notes, Tulp \"probably served on the board of directors of the Dutch East India Company\" — which was, of course, importing tea.) Some enthusiasts suggested tea could induce the \"constant sluicing of the body by drinking tens or hundreds of cups daily,\" Woodruff writes. Tea detox, anyone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out that self-help books were popular back then, too, and one of the most influential practitioners of the form was an English writer named Thomas Tryon, who had lots of theories on nutrition. (His followers included a \u003ca href=\"http://pediatrics.aappublications.org/content/52/2/271.abstract\">young Benjamin Franklin\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tryon had a love-hate relationship with sugar. He'd been to plantations in the West Indies and was horrified by the system of slavery under which sugar cane was grown. But he also believed that anything that made people feel as good as sugar does must have some intrinsic health value. A dollop of sugar in a nonalcoholic, herbal infusion was a good way to get a hit of sweetness without going overboard, he thought. While Tryon didn't specify which infusion to use for this healthful concoction, \"tea was the most obvious one,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such health notions, Smith says, help explain why, by the 1720s and 1730s, the custom of taking tea with sugar had taken hold among the British upper and middle classes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Birth Of A Global Economy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interestingly, Smith notes, there's evidence that much of the same health claims were being made about coffee around the turn of the 18th century. But coffee came from countries like Yemen and Eritrea — \"places beyond European control and with little capacity to expand production,\" Smith writes. So when demand for coffee rose, prices did, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea, on the other hand, came from China — which had in place a sophisticated commerce system that could respond quickly to rising demand, Smith says. That demand was coming from the British and Dutch East India companies, which were already in China buying spices, silks and other goods for trade. As interest in tea grew back home, Smith says, the companies were in good position to ship large, reliable quantities at affordable prices \"and therefore make tea a popular fad — and beyond a fad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What you're seeing is the global economy being constructed,\" Smith says. \"It's these two companies as the vanguard of modern capitalism.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As \u003ca href=\"http://simplify-your-vibrations.tumblr.com/post/49217897598\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lord Beckett\u003c/a>, the villainous, tea-and-sugar-sipping agent of the British East India Company in the \u003cem>Pirates of Caribbean\u003c/em> movies might have put it, \"it's just good business.\" (Such good business, of course, that, in the 19th century, the company went on to \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/10/392116370/tea-tuesdays-the-scottish-spy-who-stole-chinas-tea-empire\">steal the secrets\u003c/a> of tea production from China to establish a tea empire in India.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fuel For The Industrial Revolution\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea and sugar proved good for business in another sense: as a cheap source of calories for the working classes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beer and cider had long been the drink of choice for the working poor, notes food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachellaudan.com/\">Rachel Laudan\u003c/a>. With good reason: The drinks were calorific, and the alcohol was mildly analgesic — both necessary when your days were filled with grinding labor. \"Of course, that came at the cost of alertness,\" Laudan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as the Industrial Revolution got underway beginning in the mid-1700s, the working classes gave up the plow and headed to the factory, where showing up tipsy wasn't exactly a way to get ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea sweetened with a strong dose of sugar was an affordable luxury: It gave workers a hit of caffeine to get through a long slog of a day, it provided cheap calories, and it offered the comfort of warmth during a meal that otherwise often consisted only of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Paying For Empire In Tea And Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of tea and sugar as a power duo was a boon for British government coffers. By the mid-1700s, tea imports accounted for one-tenth of overall tax income, says Laudan, a visiting professor at the University of Texas, Austin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94765\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/east_indiaman_warley_custom-d678c1595671139b762d9751ea0e036cab58156c-e1428464451824.jpg\" alt=\"The Warley, a ship belonging to the British East India Company at the turn of the 19th century\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1205\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Warley, a ship belonging to the British East India Company at the turn of the 19th century \u003ccite>(Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As for sugar? According to one analysis, Laudan notes, in the 1760s, the annual duties on sugar imports were \"enough to pay to maintain all ships in the navy.\" A great deal of that sugar, historians say, was being stirred into tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those tea-and-sugar monies helped supply the British navy with better foodstuffs, Laudan says, including vegetables when available. And that navy was key to spreading British might across the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's this dominance of the British navy that allows Britain to become the major colonial power in 19th century,\" Laudan tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all this growth came at a terrible human price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Smith notes, the fad for tea came in just as sugar was under attack and had started to fall out of favor. By creating a new and lasting use for this sweetener, tea helped buoy demand for sugar from the West Indies. \"And indeed, it continued to support the expansion of slavery there,\" Smith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the next time you finding yourself sipping a nice warm cup, consider how something as simple as a drink can shape events half a world away. Even today, our edibles aren't just about appetite — the palatable is political.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/94763/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire","authors":["byline_bayareabites_94763"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_128","bayareabites_511","bayareabites_165"],"featImg":"bayareabites_94784","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_94304":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_94304","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"94304","score":null,"sort":[1427325957000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"heinz-and-kraft-before-they-were-food-giants-they-were-men","title":"Heinz And Kraft: Before They Were Food Giants, They Were Men","publishDate":1427325957,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94310\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg\" alt=\"Kraft mac and cheese and Heinz ketchup — a marriage made in processed-food heaven. Photos: M. Spencer Green/AP; Angelika Warmuth/Corbis\" width=\"800\" height=\"398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-400x199.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-768x382.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-320x159.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kraft mac and cheese and Heinz ketchup — a marriage made in processed-food heaven. Photos: M. Spencer Green/AP; Angelika Warmuth/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/03/20150325_atc_heinz_and_kraft_before_the_were_food_giants_they_were_men.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/25/395345479/heinz-and-kraft-before-the-were-food-giants-they-were-men\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/25/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heinz and Kraft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we hear those names we think ketchup and Velveeta, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before they were products and companies that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2015/03/25/395269545/heinz-kraft-announce-merger\">will merge\u003c/a> to become a giant with $28 billion in revenue, Heinz and Kraft were men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94305\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94305\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg\" alt=\"Henry J. Heinz. Photo: Library of Congress\" width=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg 867w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 867px) 100vw, 867px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry J. Heinz. Photo: Library of Congress\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johnheinzlegacy.org/heinz/heinzfamily.html\">Henry John Heinz\u003c/a> came along first. Born near Pittsburgh in 1844, he was bottling and selling condiments by the age of 15. By the time he was in his mid-20s, he had launched what would become the H.J. Heinz Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food science and technology expert \u003ca href=\"http://chhs.gmu.edu/faculty-and-staff/petrick.cfm\">Gabriella Petrick\u003c/a> says that at first, ketchup was not what Heinz was known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was largely known as a horseradish producer and a pickle producer,\" she notes, adding, \"At one point, Heinz was absolutely the largest food producer in the United States of commercially canned foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Petrick, who teaches at George Mason University in Fairfax, Va., says the ketchup brand was born in 1876. By then, Heinz was selling a long list of food items — more than the 57 varieties it advertised on its labels. Apparently, Heinz just liked that number.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is a myth that there were 57 varieties\" of products that the company was selling, she says. \"But later on,\" she notes, \"in the 19-teens and '20s, the company went on to try to make 57 varieties [of products] and bring the legend into fact.\" It didn't quite happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And many years later, it was no coincidence that the deal that put the Heinz name on the Pittsburgh Steelers' stadium was for $\u003cem>57 million\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of years before Heinz started selling ketchup, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftfoodsgroup.com/about/history/jlkraftbio.aspx\">James Lewis Kraft\u003c/a> was born in Canada. That was in 1874. His family moved to Buffalo, N.Y., when he was a kid. The city was then the heart of America's cheese-making, according to Petrick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an adult, Kraft set up shop in Chicago and founded J.L. Kraft and Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He's really important,\" Petrick says. \"He brought cheese making into the industrial setting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company pasteurized its cheese — a rare thing at the time. Because Kraft cheese had a longer shelf life, the government ordered millions of pounds of it to feed troops during World War I.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before Kraft got crafty with cheese, Americans had been eating a lot of cheddar. Kraft came up with something new: \"Yep, the originator of American cheese was Canadian,\" Petrick says. Later, in the 1920s, came Velveeta — a mixture of American, Colby and cheddar designed to melt smoothly. And the '30s brought Miracle Whip and the Kraft Macaroni & Cheese dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Kraft's legacy wasn't just cheesy. More broadly, Petrick says, he used \"science and technology to stabilized American food systems and actually, really make them safer.\" Likewise, she says, Heinz helped make food safer at a time when \"lots of people were getting sick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Kraft and Heinz will be one. Feel free to celebrate this marriage tonight with some mac and cheese drizzled with ketchup. Bon appetit!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Henry Heinz was big into pickles before ketchup came along. James Kraft gave the world American cheese. (Ironically, he was Canadian.) Now, two companies that revamped how we eat will become one.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1554323795,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":564},"headData":{"title":"Heinz And Kraft: Before They Were Food Giants, They Were Men | KQED","description":"Henry Heinz was big into pickles before ketchup came along. James Kraft gave the world American cheese. (Ironically, he was Canadian.) Now, two companies that revamped how we eat will become one.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Heinz And Kraft: Before They Were Food Giants, They Were Men","datePublished":"2015-03-25T23:25:57.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-03T20:36:35.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"94304 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=94304","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/25/heinz-and-kraft-before-they-were-food-giants-they-were-men/","disqusTitle":"Heinz And Kraft: Before They Were Food Giants, They Were Men","nprByline":"NPR Staff","nprStoryId":"395345479","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=395345479&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/25/395345479/heinz-and-kraft-before-the-were-food-giants-they-were-men?ft=nprml&f=395345479","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 25 Mar 2015 18:22:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 25 Mar 2015 17:20:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 25 Mar 2015 17:37:16 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/03/20150325_atc_heinz_and_kraft_before_the_were_food_giants_they_were_men.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&e=395345479&d=127&ft=nprml&f=395345479","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1395355169-331d01.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&e=395345479&d=127&ft=nprml&f=395345479","audioTrackLength":128,"path":"/bayareabites/94304/heinz-and-kraft-before-they-were-food-giants-they-were-men","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/03/20150325_atc_heinz_and_kraft_before_the_were_food_giants_they_were_men.mp3","audioDuration":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94310\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg\" alt=\"Kraft mac and cheese and Heinz ketchup — a marriage made in processed-food heaven. Photos: M. Spencer Green/AP; Angelika Warmuth/Corbis\" width=\"800\" height=\"398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-400x199.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-768x382.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/kraft-heinz-320x159.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kraft mac and cheese and Heinz ketchup — a marriage made in processed-food heaven. Photos: M. Spencer Green/AP; Angelika Warmuth/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/03/20150325_atc_heinz_and_kraft_before_the_were_food_giants_they_were_men.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/25/395345479/heinz-and-kraft-before-the-were-food-giants-they-were-men\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/25/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heinz and Kraft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we hear those names we think ketchup and Velveeta, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before they were products and companies that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2015/03/25/395269545/heinz-kraft-announce-merger\">will merge\u003c/a> to become a giant with $28 billion in revenue, Heinz and Kraft were men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94305\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94305\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg\" alt=\"Henry J. Heinz. Photo: Library of Congress\" width=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71.jpg 867w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/3b11344u_2_slide-cdd0c053afeccf794b9266e64c436cbbbd63ad71-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 867px) 100vw, 867px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry J. Heinz. Photo: Library of Congress\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johnheinzlegacy.org/heinz/heinzfamily.html\">Henry John Heinz\u003c/a> came along first. Born near Pittsburgh in 1844, he was bottling and selling condiments by the age of 15. By the time he was in his mid-20s, he had launched what would become the H.J. Heinz Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food science and technology expert \u003ca href=\"http://chhs.gmu.edu/faculty-and-staff/petrick.cfm\">Gabriella Petrick\u003c/a> says that at first, ketchup was not what Heinz was known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was largely known as a horseradish producer and a pickle producer,\" she notes, adding, \"At one point, Heinz was absolutely the largest food producer in the United States of commercially canned foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Petrick, who teaches at George Mason University in Fairfax, Va., says the ketchup brand was born in 1876. By then, Heinz was selling a long list of food items — more than the 57 varieties it advertised on its labels. Apparently, Heinz just liked that number.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is a myth that there were 57 varieties\" of products that the company was selling, she says. \"But later on,\" she notes, \"in the 19-teens and '20s, the company went on to try to make 57 varieties [of products] and bring the legend into fact.\" It didn't quite happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And many years later, it was no coincidence that the deal that put the Heinz name on the Pittsburgh Steelers' stadium was for $\u003cem>57 million\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of years before Heinz started selling ketchup, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftfoodsgroup.com/about/history/jlkraftbio.aspx\">James Lewis Kraft\u003c/a> was born in Canada. That was in 1874. His family moved to Buffalo, N.Y., when he was a kid. The city was then the heart of America's cheese-making, according to Petrick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an adult, Kraft set up shop in Chicago and founded J.L. Kraft and Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He's really important,\" Petrick says. \"He brought cheese making into the industrial setting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company pasteurized its cheese — a rare thing at the time. Because Kraft cheese had a longer shelf life, the government ordered millions of pounds of it to feed troops during World War I.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before Kraft got crafty with cheese, Americans had been eating a lot of cheddar. Kraft came up with something new: \"Yep, the originator of American cheese was Canadian,\" Petrick says. Later, in the 1920s, came Velveeta — a mixture of American, Colby and cheddar designed to melt smoothly. And the '30s brought Miracle Whip and the Kraft Macaroni & Cheese dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Kraft's legacy wasn't just cheesy. More broadly, Petrick says, he used \"science and technology to stabilized American food systems and actually, really make them safer.\" Likewise, she says, Heinz helped make food safer at a time when \"lots of people were getting sick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Kraft and Heinz will be one. Feel free to celebrate this marriage tonight with some mac and cheese drizzled with ketchup. Bon appetit!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/94304/heinz-and-kraft-before-they-were-food-giants-they-were-men","authors":["byline_bayareabites_94304"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14243","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_11282","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_94305","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_94084":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_94084","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"94084","score":null,"sort":[1426707390000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tea-tuesdays-gift-of-the-moon-bane-of-the-spanish-the-story-of-yerba-mate","title":"Tea Tuesdays: Gift Of The Moon, Bane Of The Spanish — The Story Of Yerba Mate","publishDate":1426707390,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94085\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg\" alt=\"A gourd of yerba mate. Legend has it that the moon gifted this infusion to the Guaraní people of South America. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A gourd of yerba mate. Legend has it that the moon gifted this infusion to the Guaraní people of South America. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393355841/tea-tuesdays-south-america-runs-on-yerba-mate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">By Jasmine Garsd, The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/17/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1616, Hernando Arias de Saavedra, the governor of the Spanish province that included Buenos Aires, banned the population from drinking a green herbal drink called yerba mate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The governor had seen the region's indigenous Guaraní people carrying this drink with them everywhere they went. It was a filthy vice, the Spanish had decided. And it was spreading like wildfire among the Spanish colonists — as far away as what is now Bolivia, Chile and Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All Spaniards, men and women, and all Indians, drink these dusts in hot water,\" one dismayed Jesuit priest wrote, lamenting, \"And when they don't have with what to buy it, they give away their underpants and their blankets ... When they stop drinking it they fade away and say they cannot live.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That passion for mate (unlike the governor) is still very much alive and well today in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and southern Brazil, where it is known as \u003cem>chimarrão\u003c/em> (pronounced she-ma-how).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, in 2013, mate was officially declared a \"national infusion\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsolquilmes.com.ar/notas/35466-el-gobierno-declaro-al-vino-y-al-mate-como-bebidas-nacionales\">of Argentina\u003c/a>, where an estimated \u003ca href=\"http://www.econ.uba.ar/planfenix/economias_regionales/comision%20B/06-Gortari%202.pdf\">250,000 tons of herb\u003c/a> are consumed every year. Paraguay has a National \u003cem>Tereré Day\u003c/em> (\u003cem>tereré\u003c/em> is a drink made with yerba mate, but it's drunk cold). The brew is now a common sight in health stores and specialized coffee shops in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technically, mate is not a tea, but rather, an infusion. \"Tea\" refers to a drink made from the leaves of the evergreen Asian shrub \u003cem>camellia sinensis,\u003c/em> whereas the leaves in mate come from \u003cem>Ilex paraguariensis\u003c/em>\u003cem>, a shrub\u003c/em> with small greenish-white flowers that grew especially abundant in Paraguay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg\" alt=\"(Left) A bombilla, the metal drinking straw with a strainer at one end that's used to sip yerba mate. (Right) Mate leaves. Photos: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1228\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-400x256.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-1440x921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-1180x755.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-320x205.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">(Left) A bombilla, the metal drinking straw with a strainer at one end that's used to sip yerba mate. (Right) Mate leaves. Photos: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Guaraní people put mate in small calabashes and drank it as a cold infusion, through hollow straws,\" historian Lucía Gálvez recounts in her book \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books?id=N0IOAj0iA9cC\">De La Tierra Sin Mal Al Paraíso: Jesuitas Y Guaranies\u003c/a>. \"They also chewed on it to have more energy on their walks, a tradition which has disappeared.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've heard variations on this Guaraní legend of how mate came to be: The moon had been told by the sun about all the joys of the jungle that she could not see in the darkness of the night — the birds, the leaves, the flowers. She got very curious, and one day came down to earth in the form of a young woman. She went exploring, and was almost attacked by a \u003cem>yaguareté\u003c/em> (a jaguar), but a Guarani hunter saved her. The moon was so grateful, she gave the Guarani people the gift of mate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did this ancient drink go from prohibited brew to beloved South American pastime? Thank the Jesuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Gálvez, the missionaries may have been critical of \u003cem>Ilex paraguariensis, \u003c/em>but they also began cultivating it toward the end of the 17th century, believing it was perhaps not only good for health, but also a good substitute for alcoholic drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out, the Jesuits had a green thumb: Mate soon became the most profitable industry on the missions, and it was sold from Buenos Aires to Peru. It even came to be known in certain circles as \"the Jesuit tea.\" In 1747 one Jesuit priest wrote: \"it is the herb of Paraguay, which here and in Chile, and in much of Peru, is what chocolate is to Spain, and even more common, for it is used by the rich, the poor and the slaves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Jesuit who loves drinking mate? Pope Francis. \"What's that bowl-pipe thing he carries around and frequently takes a hit off?\" \u003ca href=\"http://gawker.com/pople-drank-whats-up-with-pope-francis-and-his-pipe-t-1476488799\">Gawker wondered aloud\u003c/a> a few years ago. \"It's a mate cup with a silver straw. And it's how you drink the caffeine-loaded 'national infusion' of Francis' homeland, Argentina.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94100\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg\" alt=\"Pope Francis sips his mate as he arrives for his general audience at St. Peter's Square in December. Photo: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pope Francis sips his mate as he arrives for his general audience at St. Peter's Square in December. Photo: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mate is woven into the very fabric of the region's culture. In \u003cem>The Voyage Of The Beagle\u003c/em>, Charles Darwin writes about the comfort of a warm sip: \"When it was dark, we made a fire beneath a little arbor of bamboos, fried our \u003cem>charqui\u003c/em> (or dried slips of beef), took our \u003cem>mate\u003c/em>, and were quite comfortable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first tango-like songs to be penned, in 1857, is called \u003cem>\"Tomá mate, che\"\u003c/em> (\"Drink mate che), by Spanish musician Santiago Ramos. He sings: \"A girl said, when she saw me, this \u003cem>porteño\u003c/em> kills me. Drink mate, che, drink mate. Here on the River Plate, we don't do chocolate.\" (A \u003cem>porteño\u003c/em> is a person from Buenos Aires.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brazilian poet and musician Jayme Caetano Braun used the drink to describe aging: \"\u003cem>Vá chupando despacito/Que é triste matear solito/Quando a velhice nos bate.\u003c/em>\" (Sucking slowly/ how sad to drink mate alone/ when old age hits us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewfIVyRJDFk]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a whole art to preparing a hot mate. Here's how I was taught. First, you have to get a good container for the brew. Cups made of bone are particularly gorgeous. I love the traditional way of drinking it, in a dried calabash gourd. Otherwise, I go for wooden cups. Plastic or metal cups are no-nos for me — you lose that great aged-wood flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of gourds are passed from generation to generation and have a sentimental value (I have my grandfather's gourd at home). But if you buy a gourd made of wood, calabash or cow bone, you must prep it. I was taught to give it a wash and fill it with wet \u003cem>yerba\u003c/em>. Leave the leaves there for a day, then rinse and repeat a few times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the mate itself\u003cem>, \u003c/em>I've seen it sold in small packages at trendy health-food chains, but it just won't give you that many servings. Go to a South American specialty store and buy a few pounds for a few bucks. You'll thank me for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94088\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg\" alt=\"My yerba mate gourd. Photo: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">My yerba mate gourd. Photo: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that you have your herb, and you've cured the gourd, you are ready to drink a nice hot mate. Fill the gourd about halfway with the dry tea leaves. Next, cover the gourd with your hand or a piece of paper and shake it just a little, so that the powdered leaves rise to the top and you don't end up drinking them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of different methods to prep mate, but here's what I was taught: Heat water until it is about to break into a boil. Tilt the gourd and pour in the water so that only half of your leaves get wet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wet section is where you are going to stick your \u003cem>bombilla,\u003c/em> a metal straw with a strainer at one end. Once the \u003cem>bombilla\u003c/em> is in, pour more water into that wet little pouch, then start sucking on the metal straw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How To Make Yerba Mate\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter adding the tea leaves, 1. Cover the gourd with your hand, tilt and lightly shake out the dust. 2. Pour the hot water so only half your mate leaves get wet. 3. Insert the bombilla into damp area. 4. Add water to the depression created by the spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94104\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385.jpg\" alt=\"Credit: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo, NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-1440x966.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-320x215.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Credit: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo, NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I know a lot of purists who look with disdain upon those who add sugar to the drink. But there are so many great ways to prep and flavor mate. I sometimes toast orange and lemon peels, then add them to the gourd. A friend of my father's used to pour hot milk instead of water. I've heard of people pouring alcohol or coffee into their mate. That's a little much, if you ask me, because mate already has plenty of caffeine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot has been said about the health benefits of mate. My grandpa swore by it, and he lived until almost 100. But he also went dancing every weekend, which probably did more to keep him young.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The drink is popularly used to lose weight, a virtue which is debated. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11424516\">One study\u003c/a> found that a mix of mate and other herbs administered to overweight patients helped them feel full faster\u003cem>.\u003c/em> And while research suggests mate contains plenty of vitamins, antioxidants and minerals, don't go guzzling it by the gallon. Some studies have also found a link between heavy consumption and an increased risk in\u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-living/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/expert-answers/yerba-mate/faq-20058343\"> oral, esophageal and lung cancer\u003c/a>s — especially in smokers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When it comes to teas or herbals that might have medicinal properties, it's not a regulated thing,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-living/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/expert-answers/yerba-mate/faq-20058343\">Katherine Zerasky\u003c/a>, a registered dietitian with the Mayo Clinic, tells The Salt. \"[Drink] it in moderation, and within the context of a healthy diet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to keep it social. The beauty of mate is that you share it with friends and family: Pour yourself some hot water, drink until the gourd is dry, then pass it along to the next person.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/388738261/tea-tuesdays\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Legend has it the moon gifted this drink to the Guaraní people of South America. It was banned by the colonial government. The Jesuits made it their most profitable crop. Oh, and the pope drinks it.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1554250845,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1610},"headData":{"title":"Tea Tuesdays: Gift Of The Moon, Bane Of The Spanish — The Story Of Yerba Mate | KQED","description":"Legend has it the moon gifted this drink to the Guaraní people of South America. It was banned by the colonial government. The Jesuits made it their most profitable crop. Oh, and the pope drinks it.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tea Tuesdays: Gift Of The Moon, Bane Of The Spanish — The Story Of Yerba Mate","datePublished":"2015-03-18T19:36:30.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-03T00:20:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"94084 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=94084","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/18/tea-tuesdays-gift-of-the-moon-bane-of-the-spanish-the-story-of-yerba-mate/","disqusTitle":"Tea Tuesdays: Gift Of The Moon, Bane Of The Spanish — The Story Of Yerba Mate","nprByline":"Jasmine Garsd","nprStoryId":"393355841","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=393355841&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393355841/tea-tuesdays-south-america-runs-on-yerba-mate?ft=nprml&f=393355841","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 18:37:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 17:31:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 18:37:40 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/94084/tea-tuesdays-gift-of-the-moon-bane-of-the-spanish-the-story-of-yerba-mate","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94085\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg\" alt=\"A gourd of yerba mate. Legend has it that the moon gifted this infusion to the Guaraní people of South America. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/istock_000012771284large_custom-8227e1cfab3b8cbb49389558951aef42b20e65e3-e1426706571692-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A gourd of yerba mate. Legend has it that the moon gifted this infusion to the Guaraní people of South America. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393355841/tea-tuesdays-south-america-runs-on-yerba-mate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">By Jasmine Garsd, The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/17/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1616, Hernando Arias de Saavedra, the governor of the Spanish province that included Buenos Aires, banned the population from drinking a green herbal drink called yerba mate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The governor had seen the region's indigenous Guaraní people carrying this drink with them everywhere they went. It was a filthy vice, the Spanish had decided. And it was spreading like wildfire among the Spanish colonists — as far away as what is now Bolivia, Chile and Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All Spaniards, men and women, and all Indians, drink these dusts in hot water,\" one dismayed Jesuit priest wrote, lamenting, \"And when they don't have with what to buy it, they give away their underpants and their blankets ... When they stop drinking it they fade away and say they cannot live.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That passion for mate (unlike the governor) is still very much alive and well today in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and southern Brazil, where it is known as \u003cem>chimarrão\u003c/em> (pronounced she-ma-how).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, in 2013, mate was officially declared a \"national infusion\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsolquilmes.com.ar/notas/35466-el-gobierno-declaro-al-vino-y-al-mate-como-bebidas-nacionales\">of Argentina\u003c/a>, where an estimated \u003ca href=\"http://www.econ.uba.ar/planfenix/economias_regionales/comision%20B/06-Gortari%202.pdf\">250,000 tons of herb\u003c/a> are consumed every year. Paraguay has a National \u003cem>Tereré Day\u003c/em> (\u003cem>tereré\u003c/em> is a drink made with yerba mate, but it's drunk cold). The brew is now a common sight in health stores and specialized coffee shops in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technically, mate is not a tea, but rather, an infusion. \"Tea\" refers to a drink made from the leaves of the evergreen Asian shrub \u003cem>camellia sinensis,\u003c/em> whereas the leaves in mate come from \u003cem>Ilex paraguariensis\u003c/em>\u003cem>, a shrub\u003c/em> with small greenish-white flowers that grew especially abundant in Paraguay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg\" alt=\"(Left) A bombilla, the metal drinking straw with a strainer at one end that's used to sip yerba mate. (Right) Mate leaves. Photos: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1228\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-400x256.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-1440x921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-1180x755.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spoonandtea_custom-31bf8134b7f22d1cb3a4125e3a41565327b9e99d-e1426706646494-320x205.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">(Left) A bombilla, the metal drinking straw with a strainer at one end that's used to sip yerba mate. (Right) Mate leaves. Photos: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Guaraní people put mate in small calabashes and drank it as a cold infusion, through hollow straws,\" historian Lucía Gálvez recounts in her book \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books?id=N0IOAj0iA9cC\">De La Tierra Sin Mal Al Paraíso: Jesuitas Y Guaranies\u003c/a>. \"They also chewed on it to have more energy on their walks, a tradition which has disappeared.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've heard variations on this Guaraní legend of how mate came to be: The moon had been told by the sun about all the joys of the jungle that she could not see in the darkness of the night — the birds, the leaves, the flowers. She got very curious, and one day came down to earth in the form of a young woman. She went exploring, and was almost attacked by a \u003cem>yaguareté\u003c/em> (a jaguar), but a Guarani hunter saved her. The moon was so grateful, she gave the Guarani people the gift of mate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did this ancient drink go from prohibited brew to beloved South American pastime? Thank the Jesuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Gálvez, the missionaries may have been critical of \u003cem>Ilex paraguariensis, \u003c/em>but they also began cultivating it toward the end of the 17th century, believing it was perhaps not only good for health, but also a good substitute for alcoholic drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out, the Jesuits had a green thumb: Mate soon became the most profitable industry on the missions, and it was sold from Buenos Aires to Peru. It even came to be known in certain circles as \"the Jesuit tea.\" In 1747 one Jesuit priest wrote: \"it is the herb of Paraguay, which here and in Chile, and in much of Peru, is what chocolate is to Spain, and even more common, for it is used by the rich, the poor and the slaves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Jesuit who loves drinking mate? Pope Francis. \"What's that bowl-pipe thing he carries around and frequently takes a hit off?\" \u003ca href=\"http://gawker.com/pople-drank-whats-up-with-pope-francis-and-his-pipe-t-1476488799\">Gawker wondered aloud\u003c/a> a few years ago. \"It's a mate cup with a silver straw. And it's how you drink the caffeine-loaded 'national infusion' of Francis' homeland, Argentina.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94100\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg\" alt=\"Pope Francis sips his mate as he arrives for his general audience at St. Peter's Square in December. Photo: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/pope-francis-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pope Francis sips his mate as he arrives for his general audience at St. Peter's Square in December. Photo: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mate is woven into the very fabric of the region's culture. In \u003cem>The Voyage Of The Beagle\u003c/em>, Charles Darwin writes about the comfort of a warm sip: \"When it was dark, we made a fire beneath a little arbor of bamboos, fried our \u003cem>charqui\u003c/em> (or dried slips of beef), took our \u003cem>mate\u003c/em>, and were quite comfortable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first tango-like songs to be penned, in 1857, is called \u003cem>\"Tomá mate, che\"\u003c/em> (\"Drink mate che), by Spanish musician Santiago Ramos. He sings: \"A girl said, when she saw me, this \u003cem>porteño\u003c/em> kills me. Drink mate, che, drink mate. Here on the River Plate, we don't do chocolate.\" (A \u003cem>porteño\u003c/em> is a person from Buenos Aires.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brazilian poet and musician Jayme Caetano Braun used the drink to describe aging: \"\u003cem>Vá chupando despacito/Que é triste matear solito/Quando a velhice nos bate.\u003c/em>\" (Sucking slowly/ how sad to drink mate alone/ when old age hits us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/ewfIVyRJDFk'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/ewfIVyRJDFk'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a whole art to preparing a hot mate. Here's how I was taught. First, you have to get a good container for the brew. Cups made of bone are particularly gorgeous. I love the traditional way of drinking it, in a dried calabash gourd. Otherwise, I go for wooden cups. Plastic or metal cups are no-nos for me — you lose that great aged-wood flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of gourds are passed from generation to generation and have a sentimental value (I have my grandfather's gourd at home). But if you buy a gourd made of wood, calabash or cow bone, you must prep it. I was taught to give it a wash and fill it with wet \u003cem>yerba\u003c/em>. Leave the leaves there for a day, then rinse and repeat a few times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the mate itself\u003cem>, \u003c/em>I've seen it sold in small packages at trendy health-food chains, but it just won't give you that many servings. Go to a South American specialty store and buy a few pounds for a few bucks. You'll thank me for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94088\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg\" alt=\"My yerba mate gourd. Photo: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/mg_6348_edit_custom-daefd5c11a7bca49d9d30ff1fa3107eb30ce5508-e1426706888561-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">My yerba mate gourd. Photo: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that you have your herb, and you've cured the gourd, you are ready to drink a nice hot mate. Fill the gourd about halfway with the dry tea leaves. Next, cover the gourd with your hand or a piece of paper and shake it just a little, so that the powdered leaves rise to the top and you don't end up drinking them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of different methods to prep mate, but here's what I was taught: Heat water until it is about to break into a boil. Tilt the gourd and pour in the water so that only half of your leaves get wet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wet section is where you are going to stick your \u003cem>bombilla,\u003c/em> a metal straw with a strainer at one end. Once the \u003cem>bombilla\u003c/em> is in, pour more water into that wet little pouch, then start sucking on the metal straw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How To Make Yerba Mate\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter adding the tea leaves, 1. Cover the gourd with your hand, tilt and lightly shake out the dust. 2. Pour the hot water so only half your mate leaves get wet. 3. Insert the bombilla into damp area. 4. Add water to the depression created by the spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94104\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385.jpg\" alt=\"Credit: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo, NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-1440x966.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/tea_mate2_edit-e1426707029385-320x215.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Credit: Ryan Kellman/Meredith Rizzo, NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I know a lot of purists who look with disdain upon those who add sugar to the drink. But there are so many great ways to prep and flavor mate. I sometimes toast orange and lemon peels, then add them to the gourd. A friend of my father's used to pour hot milk instead of water. I've heard of people pouring alcohol or coffee into their mate. That's a little much, if you ask me, because mate already has plenty of caffeine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot has been said about the health benefits of mate. My grandpa swore by it, and he lived until almost 100. But he also went dancing every weekend, which probably did more to keep him young.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The drink is popularly used to lose weight, a virtue which is debated. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11424516\">One study\u003c/a> found that a mix of mate and other herbs administered to overweight patients helped them feel full faster\u003cem>.\u003c/em> And while research suggests mate contains plenty of vitamins, antioxidants and minerals, don't go guzzling it by the gallon. Some studies have also found a link between heavy consumption and an increased risk in\u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-living/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/expert-answers/yerba-mate/faq-20058343\"> oral, esophageal and lung cancer\u003c/a>s — especially in smokers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When it comes to teas or herbals that might have medicinal properties, it's not a regulated thing,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-living/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/expert-answers/yerba-mate/faq-20058343\">Katherine Zerasky\u003c/a>, a registered dietitian with the Mayo Clinic, tells The Salt. \"[Drink] it in moderation, and within the context of a healthy diet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to keep it social. The beauty of mate is that you share it with friends and family: Pour yourself some hot water, drink until the gourd is dry, then pass it along to the next person.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/388738261/tea-tuesdays\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/94084/tea-tuesdays-gift-of-the-moon-bane-of-the-spanish-the-story-of-yerba-mate","authors":["byline_bayareabites_94084"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_128","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_165","bayareabites_14222"],"featImg":"bayareabites_94085","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_93748":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_93748","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"93748","score":null,"sort":[1426188544000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"from-ancient-sumeria-to-chipotle-tacos-cumin-has-spiced-up-the-world","title":"From Ancient Sumeria To Chipotle Tacos, Cumin Has Spiced Up The World","publishDate":1426188544,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93749\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1780px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93749\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg\" alt=\"The cuisines of the classical world made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1780\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg 1780w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-1440x1078.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1780px) 100vw, 1780px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cuisines of the classical world made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Adam Maskevich, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/11/392317352/is-cumin-the-most-globalized-spice-in-the-world\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first encountered cumin in suburban New Jersey around 1988. Indian food \u003ca href=\"http://www.routledge.com/books/details/9780415628471/\">was just starting\u003c/a> to penetrate the suburbs, and a trip to the new Indian restaurant in the next town had, literally, the whiff of adventure about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I took in the many new tastes and aromas from curries and kormas, one stood out: what I deemed the \"the sweaty shirt spice,\" or cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin is essential not just to India cooking but to cooks everywhere from Cuba, where it features in a garlicky sauce called \u003cem>mojo\u003c/em>, to the Middle East, to China, where it flavors the grilled meats of the country's Muslim minority.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the U.S. you'll find cumin in an impressively diverse selection of products from chili powder and black bean soup to croutons and kale slaw, as a recent Food and Drug Administration \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/RecallsOutbreaksEmergencies/SafetyAlertsAdvisories/ucm434274.htm#recalledproducts\">recall\u003c/a> of cumin products revealed. Some of our most popular restaurant chains rely on it heavily, too: Cumin is in nine of the 23 items on \u003ca href=\"http://www.chipotle.com/en-US/menu/ingredients_statement/ingredients_statement.aspx\">Chipotle's menu\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once it has been introduced into a new land and culture, cumin has a way of insinuating itself deeply into the local cuisine, which is why it has become one of the most commonly used spices in the world,\" writes \u003ca href=\"http://garynabhan.com/i/\">Gary Nabhan\u003c/a>, author and social science researcher at the University of Arizona Southwest Center, in his recent book, \u003cem>Cumin, Camels, and Caravans\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nabhan's book is really a much broader look at the spice trade and its relationship to history and culture. But cumin earned a spot in the title \"because it is so demonstrative of culinary globalization,\" Nabhan writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin has also literally been popular since the dawn of written history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In English, at least, cumin has a singular distinction – it is the only word that can be traced directly back to Sumerian, the first written language. So when we talk about cumin, we are harkening back to the Sumerian word \u003cem>gamun\u003c/em>, first written in the cuneiform script more than 4,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin's popularity in ancient Mesopotamia is also evident in the world's oldest recipe collection, the so-called \u003ca href=\"http://www.library.yale.edu/neareast/exhibitions/cuisine.html\">Yale Culinary Tablets\u003c/a>, which date to about 1750 BC. Written in what is now southern Iraq, the tablets attest to the Mesopotamians' taste for highly spiced food with lots of onions, garlic and \u003cem>kamûnu\u003c/em>, as cumin was called in Akkadian, the Semitic language the recipes were written in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost a millennium later in the 9\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century BC, the Assyrian king Ashurnasirpal II threw a huge feast to celebrate the construction of his new capital, Nimrud, in what is now northern Iraq. Boasting about it in a royal inscription erected in his new palace, Ashurnasirpal \u003ca href=\"http://oracc.museum.upenn.edu/nimrud/livesofobjects/standardinscription/index.html#reflink_2\">lists\u003c/a> the massive quantities of food he served to guests from all over his empire, including lots of cumin. It was probably used as a table condiment as it still is throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93770\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg\" alt=\"More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. Here, beef short ribs are seasoned with ground coriander, cumin garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Photo: Bob Rudis/Flickr\" width=\"1200\" height=\"799\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. Here, beef short ribs are seasoned with ground coriander, cumin garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/hrbrmstr/10818096026\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bob Rudis/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cuisines of the classical world also made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. The \u003cem>Hippocratic Corpus\u003c/em>, a collection of Greek medical texts mostly dating to late 5\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> and early 4\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> centuries BC, lists cumin as one of the ingredients in a prescription said to stop a woman's uterus from moving around her abdomen and causing \"hysteria.\" Its association with women's reproductive health is also noted by the 1\u003csup>st\u003c/sup> century CE Roman author Pliny the Elder in his \u003cem>Natural History. He \u003c/em>writes that if a woman smells cumin during sex she is more likely to conceive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides its supposed medicinal properties, the ubiquity of cumin on the Roman table can be seen in the novel \u003cem>Satyricon\u003c/em>, from around the 1\u003csup>st\u003c/sup> century BC. In it, the pompous Trimalchio is throwing a lavish dinner party and is shocked to find that his cook has forgotten to prepare the pig. Trimalchio, in a rage, complains that the cook is not taking the situation seriously enough, saying that he is acting as if he has only forgotten to add a pinch of pepper and cumin to a dish. Cumin was so important that in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">Roman cookbook\u003c/a> attributed to Apicius, dating the late 4\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> or early 5\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century AD, it's listed among the \"pantry essentials\" that every well stocked home must have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin spread throughout Europe with the Roman Empire and its culinary and (alleged) medicinal qualities continued to be valued throughout the Middle Ages. In 13\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century England, rents were often paid in cumin, and the household of King Henry III would buy it in quantities of 20 pounds at a time. By the end of the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Europeans began looking for new trade routes to obtain even more exotic spices, cumin was being widely cultivated in the warmer parts of the continent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After 1492, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/08/138924127/in-1493-columbus-shaped-a-world-to-be\">\"Columbian Exchange\"\u003c/a> brought about a massive new trade in products between Europe and the Americas that would influence eating habits in ways large and small. While foods like chilies and chocolate were being introduced to Old World kitchens, the ancient culinary traditions of the Americas were being introduced to cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Spanish settlers first planted cumin in the Americas, one of the last legs of cumin's journey began. By about 1600, cumin was being grown in what is now New Mexico; quickly it became an integral part of the regional cuisine. Anglo-American settlers first tasted the heady mix of cumin and chilies, which we now think of as central to Mexican and Southwestern food, when they began moving west in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These settlers and their descendants began incorporating this style of cooking into their own culinary repertoires, which helped to spread cumin's popularity. This could even be seen in the White House where Lady Bird Johnson, wife of the first president from Texas, had her own \u003ca href=\"http://www.lbjlib.utexas.edu/johnson/archives.hom/FAQs/Recipes/chili.asp\">recipe\u003c/a> for \"Pedernales River Chili,\" which called for a teaspoon of \u003cem>comino\u003c/em> seed (the Spanish word for cumin).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To the east, cumin traveled down the Persian Gulf where it was spread to India by traders from the Arabian Peninsula and from there throughout South Asia. The overland route linking Europe to Asia, usually referred to as the Silk Road, also helped to spread cumin's popularity and it was in this way that cumin reached China. In the Middle East, where cumin's use was first recorded, the spiced has remained popular in cuisines throughout the region and is often found in small bowls on tables right next to the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. The second half of the 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century also saw significant immigration from South Asia bringing dishes that had been redolent of cumin for millennia to the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/15/169392108/its-grim-in-aleppo-syria-but-it-is-improving\">foul\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for breakfast in Syria, \u003cem>chana masala\u003c/em> for lunch in India or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/18/165494749/mexican-mole-has-many-flavors-many-mothers\">mole\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for dinner in Mexico, cumin is always on the table somewhere in the world. When we eat it we are part of a tradition going back to the very beginning of recorded history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adam Maskevich is an archaeologist who has worked extensively throughout the Middle East. He has also taught classes on the history of food and cooking in antiquity and the politics of archaeology.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cumin has been popular since the dawn of written history: It's the only English word that can be traced directly back to Sumerian. Since then it has insinuated itself into cuisines around the world.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1580577555,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1285},"headData":{"title":"From Ancient Sumeria To Chipotle Tacos, Cumin Has Spiced Up The World | KQED","description":"Cumin has been popular since the dawn of written history: It's the only English word that can be traced directly back to Sumerian. Since then it has insinuated itself into cuisines around the world.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"From Ancient Sumeria To Chipotle Tacos, Cumin Has Spiced Up The World","datePublished":"2015-03-12T19:29:04.000Z","dateModified":"2020-02-01T17:19:15.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"93748 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=93748","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/12/from-ancient-sumeria-to-chipotle-tacos-cumin-has-spiced-up-the-world/","disqusTitle":"From Ancient Sumeria To Chipotle Tacos, Cumin Has Spiced Up The World","nprByline":"Adam Maskevich","nprStoryId":"392317352","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=392317352&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/11/392317352/is-cumin-the-most-globalized-spice-in-the-world?ft=nprml&f=392317352","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:22:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 11 Mar 2015 11:32:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:22:10 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/93748/from-ancient-sumeria-to-chipotle-tacos-cumin-has-spiced-up-the-world","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93749\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1780px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93749\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg\" alt=\"The cuisines of the classical world made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1780\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c.jpg 1780w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-1440x1078.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/cumin-seeds-874c1ad69539fd2da5010baea1676e8b3fb0985c-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1780px) 100vw, 1780px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cuisines of the classical world made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Adam Maskevich, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/11/392317352/is-cumin-the-most-globalized-spice-in-the-world\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first encountered cumin in suburban New Jersey around 1988. Indian food \u003ca href=\"http://www.routledge.com/books/details/9780415628471/\">was just starting\u003c/a> to penetrate the suburbs, and a trip to the new Indian restaurant in the next town had, literally, the whiff of adventure about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I took in the many new tastes and aromas from curries and kormas, one stood out: what I deemed the \"the sweaty shirt spice,\" or cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin is essential not just to India cooking but to cooks everywhere from Cuba, where it features in a garlicky sauce called \u003cem>mojo\u003c/em>, to the Middle East, to China, where it flavors the grilled meats of the country's Muslim minority.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the U.S. you'll find cumin in an impressively diverse selection of products from chili powder and black bean soup to croutons and kale slaw, as a recent Food and Drug Administration \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/RecallsOutbreaksEmergencies/SafetyAlertsAdvisories/ucm434274.htm#recalledproducts\">recall\u003c/a> of cumin products revealed. Some of our most popular restaurant chains rely on it heavily, too: Cumin is in nine of the 23 items on \u003ca href=\"http://www.chipotle.com/en-US/menu/ingredients_statement/ingredients_statement.aspx\">Chipotle's menu\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once it has been introduced into a new land and culture, cumin has a way of insinuating itself deeply into the local cuisine, which is why it has become one of the most commonly used spices in the world,\" writes \u003ca href=\"http://garynabhan.com/i/\">Gary Nabhan\u003c/a>, author and social science researcher at the University of Arizona Southwest Center, in his recent book, \u003cem>Cumin, Camels, and Caravans\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nabhan's book is really a much broader look at the spice trade and its relationship to history and culture. But cumin earned a spot in the title \"because it is so demonstrative of culinary globalization,\" Nabhan writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin has also literally been popular since the dawn of written history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In English, at least, cumin has a singular distinction – it is the only word that can be traced directly back to Sumerian, the first written language. So when we talk about cumin, we are harkening back to the Sumerian word \u003cem>gamun\u003c/em>, first written in the cuneiform script more than 4,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin's popularity in ancient Mesopotamia is also evident in the world's oldest recipe collection, the so-called \u003ca href=\"http://www.library.yale.edu/neareast/exhibitions/cuisine.html\">Yale Culinary Tablets\u003c/a>, which date to about 1750 BC. Written in what is now southern Iraq, the tablets attest to the Mesopotamians' taste for highly spiced food with lots of onions, garlic and \u003cem>kamûnu\u003c/em>, as cumin was called in Akkadian, the Semitic language the recipes were written in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost a millennium later in the 9\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century BC, the Assyrian king Ashurnasirpal II threw a huge feast to celebrate the construction of his new capital, Nimrud, in what is now northern Iraq. Boasting about it in a royal inscription erected in his new palace, Ashurnasirpal \u003ca href=\"http://oracc.museum.upenn.edu/nimrud/livesofobjects/standardinscription/index.html#reflink_2\">lists\u003c/a> the massive quantities of food he served to guests from all over his empire, including lots of cumin. It was probably used as a table condiment as it still is throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93770\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg\" alt=\"More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. Here, beef short ribs are seasoned with ground coriander, cumin garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Photo: Bob Rudis/Flickr\" width=\"1200\" height=\"799\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/spiced-meat-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. Here, beef short ribs are seasoned with ground coriander, cumin garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/hrbrmstr/10818096026\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bob Rudis/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cuisines of the classical world also made use of cumin both as a flavoring and a drug. The \u003cem>Hippocratic Corpus\u003c/em>, a collection of Greek medical texts mostly dating to late 5\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> and early 4\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> centuries BC, lists cumin as one of the ingredients in a prescription said to stop a woman's uterus from moving around her abdomen and causing \"hysteria.\" Its association with women's reproductive health is also noted by the 1\u003csup>st\u003c/sup> century CE Roman author Pliny the Elder in his \u003cem>Natural History. He \u003c/em>writes that if a woman smells cumin during sex she is more likely to conceive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides its supposed medicinal properties, the ubiquity of cumin on the Roman table can be seen in the novel \u003cem>Satyricon\u003c/em>, from around the 1\u003csup>st\u003c/sup> century BC. In it, the pompous Trimalchio is throwing a lavish dinner party and is shocked to find that his cook has forgotten to prepare the pig. Trimalchio, in a rage, complains that the cook is not taking the situation seriously enough, saying that he is acting as if he has only forgotten to add a pinch of pepper and cumin to a dish. Cumin was so important that in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">Roman cookbook\u003c/a> attributed to Apicius, dating the late 4\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> or early 5\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century AD, it's listed among the \"pantry essentials\" that every well stocked home must have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cumin spread throughout Europe with the Roman Empire and its culinary and (alleged) medicinal qualities continued to be valued throughout the Middle Ages. In 13\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century England, rents were often paid in cumin, and the household of King Henry III would buy it in quantities of 20 pounds at a time. By the end of the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Europeans began looking for new trade routes to obtain even more exotic spices, cumin was being widely cultivated in the warmer parts of the continent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After 1492, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/08/138924127/in-1493-columbus-shaped-a-world-to-be\">\"Columbian Exchange\"\u003c/a> brought about a massive new trade in products between Europe and the Americas that would influence eating habits in ways large and small. While foods like chilies and chocolate were being introduced to Old World kitchens, the ancient culinary traditions of the Americas were being introduced to cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Spanish settlers first planted cumin in the Americas, one of the last legs of cumin's journey began. By about 1600, cumin was being grown in what is now New Mexico; quickly it became an integral part of the regional cuisine. Anglo-American settlers first tasted the heady mix of cumin and chilies, which we now think of as central to Mexican and Southwestern food, when they began moving west in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These settlers and their descendants began incorporating this style of cooking into their own culinary repertoires, which helped to spread cumin's popularity. This could even be seen in the White House where Lady Bird Johnson, wife of the first president from Texas, had her own \u003ca href=\"http://www.lbjlib.utexas.edu/johnson/archives.hom/FAQs/Recipes/chili.asp\">recipe\u003c/a> for \"Pedernales River Chili,\" which called for a teaspoon of \u003cem>comino\u003c/em> seed (the Spanish word for cumin).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To the east, cumin traveled down the Persian Gulf where it was spread to India by traders from the Arabian Peninsula and from there throughout South Asia. The overland route linking Europe to Asia, usually referred to as the Silk Road, also helped to spread cumin's popularity and it was in this way that cumin reached China. In the Middle East, where cumin's use was first recorded, the spiced has remained popular in cuisines throughout the region and is often found in small bowls on tables right next to the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More Americans became familiar with the flavor of cumin in the 1960s as restaurants like Taco Bell gained popularity. The second half of the 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century also saw significant immigration from South Asia bringing dishes that had been redolent of cumin for millennia to the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/15/169392108/its-grim-in-aleppo-syria-but-it-is-improving\">foul\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for breakfast in Syria, \u003cem>chana masala\u003c/em> for lunch in India or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/18/165494749/mexican-mole-has-many-flavors-many-mothers\">mole\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for dinner in Mexico, cumin is always on the table somewhere in the world. When we eat it we are part of a tradition going back to the very beginning of recorded history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adam Maskevich is an archaeologist who has worked extensively throughout the Middle East. He has also taught classes on the history of food and cooking in antiquity and the politics of archaeology.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/93748/from-ancient-sumeria-to-chipotle-tacos-cumin-has-spiced-up-the-world","authors":["byline_bayareabites_93748"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14194","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93749","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_64674":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64674","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64674","score":null,"sort":[1373062112000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","title":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal","publishDate":1373062112,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\" alt=\"An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Rhitu Chatterjee, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/5/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Archaeologists digging in the foothills of Iran's Zagros Mountains have discovered the remains of a Stone Age farming community. It turns out that people living there were growing plants like barley, peas and lentils as early as 12,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The findings offer a rare snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming. They also show that Iran was an important player in the origin of agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, archaeologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/prof-nicholas-j-conard-phd.html\">Nicholas Conard\u003c/a> of the University of Tubingen led an excavation in the foothills of the Zagros, a mountain range that runs along the Iran-Iraq border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on the suggestion of an Iranian colleague, he'd picked an area close to the border with Iraq and began excavating a mound about eight meters high. Before long, they hit pay dirt: The sediments were rich with artifacts. \"Sculpted clay objects, clay cones, depictions of animals and humans,\" says Conard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\" alt=\"The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were stone tools, too: things that looked like sickles, and mortar and pestles, some clearly used for grinding food. And then there were the grains and seeds — hundreds of them, charred but otherwise intact and well preserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Conard is no botanist. He's an expert on stone tools. But even his untrained eye recognized some of the grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They look like lentils you might buy at the store, or pieces of wheat or barley you might have encountered in other aspects of life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He suspected he was looking at an \"agricultural village,\" but he sent the grains to his colleague \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/riehl.html\">Simone Riehl\u003c/a> to double check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bingo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a fantastic feeling, when I first get these plant remains under the microscope,\" says Riehl, an archaeobotanist at the University of Tubingen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She confirmed that the grains were indeed varieties of lentils, barley and peas. She also identified a range of nuts and grasses, and a kind of wheat called Emmer, known to be a commonly grown crop in later centuries throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most of the grains Riehl looked at were pre-agricultural. \"They were cultivating what we consider wild progenitors of modern crops,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, 12,000 years ago, people were simply taking wild plants and growing them in fields. They hadn't started breeding crops yet, selecting varieties for yield and other desirable qualities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were probably just trying to secure their everyday needs,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Riehl's samples spanned a period of two thousand years. And in the younger samples, those about 10,000 years old, she did detect the first signs of domestication: The Emmer wheat from this period had tougher ears. \"That's because of human selection,\" she says. Those tough ears, she explains, helped keep the grains from falling to the ground when they were ripe. It made harvesting a lot easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts in prehistoric agriculture have welcomed the study, which is published in the latest issue of the journal \u003cem>Science\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's allowing us to push back our picture of early agriculture to these very, very initial stages, when people are beginning to play around with plants and their environment,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/archaeobio/zeder.html\">Melinda Zeder\u003c/a>, curator of old world archaeology at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also changes our understanding about the geographic origins of agriculture, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, she says scientists had thought agriculture arose in the western parts of the Fertile Crescent — a region that includes Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Israel — because that's where all previous evidences of early agriculture came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iran, on the other hand, is on the eastern edges of the Crescent, and was thought to be \"a non-player in the history of agriculture,\" says Zeder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new study proves otherwise, she says. It shows that communities across the entire Fertile Crescent started experimenting with farming around the same time. And that, says Zeder, is exciting.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Archaeologists had considered Iran unimportant in the history of farming – until now. Ancient seeds and farming tools uncovered in Iran reveal Stone Age people there were growing lentils, barley and other crops. The findings offer a snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373062112,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":713},"headData":{"title":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal | KQED","description":"Archaeologists had considered Iran unimportant in the history of farming – until now. Ancient seeds and farming tools uncovered in Iran reveal Stone Age people there were growing lentils, barley and other crops. The findings offer a snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal","datePublished":"2013-07-05T22:08:32.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-05T22:08:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"64674 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64674","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/05/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal/","disqusTitle":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal","nprByline":"Rhitu Chatterjee","nprStoryId":"198453031","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=198453031&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal?ft=3&f=198453031","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:42:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 11:15:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:42:36 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/64674/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\" alt=\"An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Rhitu Chatterjee, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/5/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Archaeologists digging in the foothills of Iran's Zagros Mountains have discovered the remains of a Stone Age farming community. It turns out that people living there were growing plants like barley, peas and lentils as early as 12,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The findings offer a rare snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming. They also show that Iran was an important player in the origin of agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, archaeologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/prof-nicholas-j-conard-phd.html\">Nicholas Conard\u003c/a> of the University of Tubingen led an excavation in the foothills of the Zagros, a mountain range that runs along the Iran-Iraq border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on the suggestion of an Iranian colleague, he'd picked an area close to the border with Iraq and began excavating a mound about eight meters high. Before long, they hit pay dirt: The sediments were rich with artifacts. \"Sculpted clay objects, clay cones, depictions of animals and humans,\" says Conard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\" alt=\"The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were stone tools, too: things that looked like sickles, and mortar and pestles, some clearly used for grinding food. And then there were the grains and seeds — hundreds of them, charred but otherwise intact and well preserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Conard is no botanist. He's an expert on stone tools. But even his untrained eye recognized some of the grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They look like lentils you might buy at the store, or pieces of wheat or barley you might have encountered in other aspects of life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He suspected he was looking at an \"agricultural village,\" but he sent the grains to his colleague \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/riehl.html\">Simone Riehl\u003c/a> to double check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bingo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a fantastic feeling, when I first get these plant remains under the microscope,\" says Riehl, an archaeobotanist at the University of Tubingen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She confirmed that the grains were indeed varieties of lentils, barley and peas. She also identified a range of nuts and grasses, and a kind of wheat called Emmer, known to be a commonly grown crop in later centuries throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most of the grains Riehl looked at were pre-agricultural. \"They were cultivating what we consider wild progenitors of modern crops,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, 12,000 years ago, people were simply taking wild plants and growing them in fields. They hadn't started breeding crops yet, selecting varieties for yield and other desirable qualities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were probably just trying to secure their everyday needs,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Riehl's samples spanned a period of two thousand years. And in the younger samples, those about 10,000 years old, she did detect the first signs of domestication: The Emmer wheat from this period had tougher ears. \"That's because of human selection,\" she says. Those tough ears, she explains, helped keep the grains from falling to the ground when they were ripe. It made harvesting a lot easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts in prehistoric agriculture have welcomed the study, which is published in the latest issue of the journal \u003cem>Science\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's allowing us to push back our picture of early agriculture to these very, very initial stages, when people are beginning to play around with plants and their environment,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/archaeobio/zeder.html\">Melinda Zeder\u003c/a>, curator of old world archaeology at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also changes our understanding about the geographic origins of agriculture, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, she says scientists had thought agriculture arose in the western parts of the Fertile Crescent — a region that includes Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Israel — because that's where all previous evidences of early agriculture came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iran, on the other hand, is on the eastern edges of the Crescent, and was thought to be \"a non-player in the history of agriculture,\" says Zeder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new study proves otherwise, she says. It shows that communities across the entire Fertile Crescent started experimenting with farming around the same time. And that, says Zeder, is exciting.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64674/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","authors":["byline_bayareabites_64674"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_129","bayareabites_11948","bayareabites_9910","bayareabites_11946","bayareabites_2143","bayareabites_1057","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_11945","bayareabites_11286","bayareabites_2141","bayareabites_11947","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64680","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_61181":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_61181","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"61181","score":null,"sort":[1367517190000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown","title":"Bones Tell Tale Of Desperation Among The Starving At Jamestown ","publishDate":1367517190,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\" alt='The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"1120\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. \u003cbr>Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/05/20130501_atc_20.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100689/christopher-joyce\">Christopher Joyce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/02/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First they ate their horses, and then fed upon their dogs and cats, as well as rats, mice and snakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says James Horn of the historical group \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.org/\">Colonial Williamsburg\u003c/a>, paraphrasing an account by colony leader George Percy of what conditions were like for the hundreds of men and women stranded in Jamestown, Va., with little food in the dead of winter in 1609.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They even ate their shoes. And, apparently, at least one person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists who have recovered human bones from the English colony at Jamestown announced Wednesday that they show the marks of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's long been debated whether the colonists resorted to eating each other during \"the starving time\" of 1609 to 1610. The weather was harsh, and the hostile Indians were even harsher. Only 60 colonists survived that winter. This new finding would be the first hard evidence of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last summer, Jamestown's chief archaeologist, \u003ca href=\"http://apva.org/rediscovery/page.php?page_id=185\">William Kelso\u003c/a>, dug up a human skull and a few other bones, along with some food remains. But these bones were different from others he'd found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61188\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\" alt='This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The damage to the skull, and finding it with the other food remains, brought on serious thoughts that this was, indeed, evidence of survival cannibalism,\" Kelso says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kelso took the bones to the Smithsonian's Douglas Owsley, a renowned forensic anthropologist who has solved numerous criminal cases, as well as archaeological mysteries, based on human bones. Owsley determined that the Jamestown bones belonged to a girl, aged 14. They don't know anything about her, but have given her a name: Jane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley found numerous cut marks on the cranium and jaw, all apparently done after the girl had died. \"There are clear chops to the forehead. They are very closely spaced,\" Owsley says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These vertical cuts are evenly spaced and regular, and thus, he says, not the kind of wound you see in a struggle, but more likely made on a corpse. \"There are four chops to the back of the cranium,\" Owsley says — apparently, they were made as the assailant was trying to open her skull. It was done in a very unskillful way, Owsley notes. Then, there was a final chop that completely fractured the skull open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley also found marks on the jaw that looked like the result of sawing with a sharp object, and also compression fractures made by a knife point. On the only fragment of leg bone the researchers had, there were more cut marks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/writteninbone/forensic_anthro_smithsonian.html\">Forensic scientists\u003c/a> usually can differentiate marks left by gnawing animals from those made by sharp instruments. Along with the written accounts, Owsley says the evidence points to cannibalism. \"Given the context of all of this put together, and the multiple, multiple cuts,\" he says, \"this is not anything that is done out of spite or vengeance or anything like that. It is, I think, a very clear intent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team has glued the skull back together and also sculpted a re-creation of what Jane would have looked like in the flesh, which they displayed today at the press conference: English, high cheekbones, regular features, pretty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smithsonian anthropologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/scientist/bruwelheide.html\">Kari Bruwelheide\u003c/a> was on the team. \"When you have evidence of an event that's written down and recorded and talked about by survivors 400 years ago, it added weight to history. I mean, it truly is kind of a special kind of case,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's special also because archaeologists are skeptical about claims of cannibalism. \u003ca href=\"http://fieldmuseum.org/users/jonathan-haas\">Jonathan Haas\u003c/a> at the Field Museum in Chicago says \"cannibalism science\" demands several types of evidence. The opening of the skull and the historical accounts are two good ones, but he says the other cut marks don't prove cannibalism, but only severe violence done to a girl's body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haas says scientists need a suite of several lines of evidence, all pointing to the same conclusion. \"If I find cut marks showing the defleshing from the long bones, if I see cracking of the long bones, if I see cooking, then I can begin to much more definitively say that there was cannibalism being practiced,\" Haas says. He says archaeologically, more proof is still needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that this was England's first successful colony in the New World, and the nature of the claim, it's likely that the cannibalism finding will generate a lively scientific debate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The winter of 1609-1610 has been called the \"starving time\" for the hundreds of men and women who settled the English colony of Jamestown, Va. They ate their horses, their pets — and, apparently, at least one person. Scientists say human bones recovered from the site provide the first hard evidence that the colonists may have resorted to cannibalism.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1367517190,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":870},"headData":{"title":"Bones Tell Tale Of Desperation Among The Starving At Jamestown | KQED","description":"The winter of 1609-1610 has been called the "starving time" for the hundreds of men and women who settled the English colony of Jamestown, Va. They ate their horses, their pets — and, apparently, at least one person. Scientists say human bones recovered from the site provide the first hard evidence that the colonists may have resorted to cannibalism.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bones Tell Tale Of Desperation Among The Starving At Jamestown ","datePublished":"2013-05-02T17:53:10.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-02T17:53:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"61181 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=61181","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/02/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown/","disqusTitle":"Bones Tell Tale Of Desperation Among The Starving At Jamestown ","nprByline":"Christopher Joyce","nprStoryId":"180314773","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=180314773&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown?ft=3&f=180314773","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 01 May 2013 19:48:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 01 May 2013 15:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 01 May 2013 19:48:01 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/05/20130501_atc_20.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1129&ft=3&f=180314773","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1180387894-0ddd36.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1129&ft=3&f=180314773","path":"/bayareabites/61181/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/05/20130501_atc_20.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1129&ft=3&f=180314773","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\" alt='The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"1120\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. \u003cbr>Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/05/20130501_atc_20.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100689/christopher-joyce\">Christopher Joyce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/02/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First they ate their horses, and then fed upon their dogs and cats, as well as rats, mice and snakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says James Horn of the historical group \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.org/\">Colonial Williamsburg\u003c/a>, paraphrasing an account by colony leader George Percy of what conditions were like for the hundreds of men and women stranded in Jamestown, Va., with little food in the dead of winter in 1609.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They even ate their shoes. And, apparently, at least one person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists who have recovered human bones from the English colony at Jamestown announced Wednesday that they show the marks of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's long been debated whether the colonists resorted to eating each other during \"the starving time\" of 1609 to 1610. The weather was harsh, and the hostile Indians were even harsher. Only 60 colonists survived that winter. This new finding would be the first hard evidence of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last summer, Jamestown's chief archaeologist, \u003ca href=\"http://apva.org/rediscovery/page.php?page_id=185\">William Kelso\u003c/a>, dug up a human skull and a few other bones, along with some food remains. But these bones were different from others he'd found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61188\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\" alt='This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The damage to the skull, and finding it with the other food remains, brought on serious thoughts that this was, indeed, evidence of survival cannibalism,\" Kelso says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kelso took the bones to the Smithsonian's Douglas Owsley, a renowned forensic anthropologist who has solved numerous criminal cases, as well as archaeological mysteries, based on human bones. Owsley determined that the Jamestown bones belonged to a girl, aged 14. They don't know anything about her, but have given her a name: Jane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley found numerous cut marks on the cranium and jaw, all apparently done after the girl had died. \"There are clear chops to the forehead. They are very closely spaced,\" Owsley says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These vertical cuts are evenly spaced and regular, and thus, he says, not the kind of wound you see in a struggle, but more likely made on a corpse. \"There are four chops to the back of the cranium,\" Owsley says — apparently, they were made as the assailant was trying to open her skull. It was done in a very unskillful way, Owsley notes. Then, there was a final chop that completely fractured the skull open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley also found marks on the jaw that looked like the result of sawing with a sharp object, and also compression fractures made by a knife point. On the only fragment of leg bone the researchers had, there were more cut marks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/writteninbone/forensic_anthro_smithsonian.html\">Forensic scientists\u003c/a> usually can differentiate marks left by gnawing animals from those made by sharp instruments. Along with the written accounts, Owsley says the evidence points to cannibalism. \"Given the context of all of this put together, and the multiple, multiple cuts,\" he says, \"this is not anything that is done out of spite or vengeance or anything like that. It is, I think, a very clear intent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team has glued the skull back together and also sculpted a re-creation of what Jane would have looked like in the flesh, which they displayed today at the press conference: English, high cheekbones, regular features, pretty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smithsonian anthropologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/scientist/bruwelheide.html\">Kari Bruwelheide\u003c/a> was on the team. \"When you have evidence of an event that's written down and recorded and talked about by survivors 400 years ago, it added weight to history. I mean, it truly is kind of a special kind of case,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's special also because archaeologists are skeptical about claims of cannibalism. \u003ca href=\"http://fieldmuseum.org/users/jonathan-haas\">Jonathan Haas\u003c/a> at the Field Museum in Chicago says \"cannibalism science\" demands several types of evidence. The opening of the skull and the historical accounts are two good ones, but he says the other cut marks don't prove cannibalism, but only severe violence done to a girl's body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haas says scientists need a suite of several lines of evidence, all pointing to the same conclusion. \"If I find cut marks showing the defleshing from the long bones, if I see cracking of the long bones, if I see cooking, then I can begin to much more definitively say that there was cannibalism being practiced,\" Haas says. He says archaeologically, more proof is still needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that this was England's first successful colony in the New World, and the nature of the claim, it's likely that the cannibalism finding will generate a lively scientific debate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/61181/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown","authors":["byline_bayareabites_61181"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_2831","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_11653"],"featImg":"bayareabites_61182","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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