Flavors Worth Finding: Yolk Spill, Vegetarian Value and Fried Rice to Bet On
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Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Rintaro's Delicate Udon Carbonara\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Cracking open the yolk of a semi-cooked egg has become a cheap trick on the internet. Videos of gooey yolk spilling onto bread, rice, or even a bare plate continue to drive people into a frenzy with heart-eyed emojis abound. Though I love eggs, I don't necessarily fall for this trap. Yolk spills that cause the most food envy on the internet are a bit too runny for me. I enjoy a bit more viscosity in my yolks—a honey-slow drip that might be too sluggish to go viral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In any case, when I had dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://izakayarintaro.com/\">Rintaro\u003c/a>, the beautiful and celebrated Mission izakaya, I didn't think an egg would be what captured me—especially since I went looking for its mother. Rintaro's is best known for its yakitori: skewered chicken from almost every part of the bird, seasoned with a light touch and grilled over charcoal not a minute too long. The heart was a surprising dense and flavorful delight. The skin was satisfying and craveable. The gizzard, of which I snagged the last order, continues to be a treasured favorite of mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was lucky to go to Rintaro with a couple of friends who live nearby and frequent the restaurant, so despite the barrage of diverse, grilled chicken parts we'd just eaten, they insisted on trying the \u003cstrong>udon carbonara\u003c/strong>. Kneaded and rolled in-house, Rintaro's udon is nearly fluffy were it not for its chew. The restaurant's take on carbonara looked incredibly simple. A bowl held a minimal tableau: a nest of off-white noodles, at its center a bright yellow egg yolk, and, off to the side, pale pink curls of shaved katsuobushi (dried and smoked skipjack tuna). We cracked the yolk—yes, on camera—and mixed in the katsuobushi until all the noodles were coated with both. My first bite was so good, as was my next and the one after that. Maybe yolk spill deserves the hype after all. Especially if it's dissolving flakes of salty, smokey fish, disappearing into a bowl of fresh noodles before it does the same into my mouth. —\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136388\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136388\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"At just six dollars a plate, the vegetable fried rice at the Oaks Card Club might be the safest bet in the house.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At just six dollars a plate, the vegetable fried rice at the Oaks Card Club might be the safest bet in the house. \u003ccite>(Sam Lefebvre)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Betting Over Fried Rice\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I’m clutching a piece of broccoli between chopsticks with one hand, and ceding $75 to a man wearing sunglasses and a Bad Boys Bail Bonds lanyard with the other. I haven’t been robbed while contenting myself with takeout, but it sort of feels that way. I’m at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oakscardclub.com/\">Oaks Card Club\u003c/a> in Emeryville, eating vegetable fried rice off a porcelain platter at a game of Texas hold ‘em. And what minutes ago seemed like an affordable, generous serving of food is becoming increasingly expensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Oaks is attached to a sports bar and cafeteria-style restaurant with a dim-lit warren of cushiony booths. It is a hofbrau—historically, in California, a drinking establishment with trays and carved-to-order beef and poultry—but in an idiosyncrasy befitting the Oaks’ polyglot clientele, there’s also Chinese and Vietnamese fare. (Incidentally, the Oaks is \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/19460/oaks-card-club-owner-says-hearing-on-reopening-tomorrow\">no longer the only local hofbrau\u003c/a> known to federal agents.) The prices are modest, and gamblers receive a discount when they order from the card table. Like the games, some food items are served 24/7.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d ordered the \u003cstrong>vegetable fried rice with bok choy, mushrooms and broccoli\u003c/strong>. On other visits I added tofu, but found it under-seasoned and undercooked. It cost $6, and I gave the server $10. Karmic deposit? Partly. The Oaks brings in somewhere around $100 million annually, judging by municipal tax documents, yet its union servers have still had to picket for fair wages and healthcare. Anyway, professional critics tend to disparage the food here. But I don’t think they’ve gone broke and taken leftovers with extra garlic chili sauce to go—because the next day, it tastes rich. —\u003cem>Sam Lefebvre, Arts Reporter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BE9IHqKhtWq/\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>HeyDay's Hard-to-Forget Cauliflower Sandwich\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As an office worker in the land of $15 salads containing little more than just lettuce, I’ve gotten into the habit of bringing a more filling and nutritious lunch from home. But after a weekend of going out too much and missing my regular grocery run, a coworker invited me to \u003ca href=\"http://www.heydaysf.com/\">HeyDay\u003c/a>—my new favorite lunch spot in downtown San Francisco. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On my first visit, I tried a \u003cstrong>roasted cauliflower sandwich\u003c/strong> with thick, flaky slices of pecorino cheese on an Acme baguette. Dressed with aioli, and with a big helping of arugula inside, the sandwich surprised me with its mingling of different flavors and textures. The flavorful, seasoned cauliflower was moist, and provided a soft counterpoint to the hard cheese and crunchy greens. I paired it with a decadently spiced Moroccan chickpea salad—a combo that came out under $12 and kept me full until my after-work gym sesh.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='bayareabites_118638,bayareabites_136123,bayareabites_136299' label='Still More Flavors Worth Finding']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn’t stop thinking about that lunch in the days that followed—something about the toothsome juxtaposition of well-seasoned cauliflower next to salty cheese. Since that discovery, my HeyDay stamp card has already gotten to be 30% full. I also tried the kale salad with toasted sunflower seeds and yogurt-avocado, as well as a more filling salad with arugula, farro, marinated mushrooms, tofu, beets and dried cranberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As someone who tries to eat healthy and vegetarian during the week, and indulges during weekend meals out, HeyDay is sure to become part of my routine. —\u003cem>Nastia Voynovskaya, Associate Arts Editor\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Vegetable fried rice that accidentally costs $75, an addictive cauliflower sandwich and an egg-covered udon carbonara round out this week's staff picks.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1596131953,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1028},"headData":{"title":"Flavors Worth Finding: Yolk Spill, Vegetarian Value and Fried Rice to Bet On | KQED","description":"Vegetable fried rice that accidentally costs $75, an addictive cauliflower sandwich and an egg-covered udon carbonara round out this week's staff picks.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Flavors Worth Finding: Yolk Spill, Vegetarian Value and Fried Rice to Bet On","datePublished":"2020-03-04T23:00:53.000Z","dateModified":"2020-07-30T17:59:13.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"136377 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136377","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/03/04/flavors-worth-finding-yolk-spill-vegetarian-value-and-fried-rice-to-bet-on/","disqusTitle":"Flavors Worth Finding: Yolk Spill, Vegetarian Value and Fried Rice to Bet On","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136377/flavors-worth-finding-yolk-spill-vegetarian-value-and-fried-rice-to-bet-on","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Rintaro's Delicate Udon Carbonara\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Cracking open the yolk of a semi-cooked egg has become a cheap trick on the internet. Videos of gooey yolk spilling onto bread, rice, or even a bare plate continue to drive people into a frenzy with heart-eyed emojis abound. Though I love eggs, I don't necessarily fall for this trap. Yolk spills that cause the most food envy on the internet are a bit too runny for me. I enjoy a bit more viscosity in my yolks—a honey-slow drip that might be too sluggish to go viral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In any case, when I had dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://izakayarintaro.com/\">Rintaro\u003c/a>, the beautiful and celebrated Mission izakaya, I didn't think an egg would be what captured me—especially since I went looking for its mother. Rintaro's is best known for its yakitori: skewered chicken from almost every part of the bird, seasoned with a light touch and grilled over charcoal not a minute too long. The heart was a surprising dense and flavorful delight. The skin was satisfying and craveable. The gizzard, of which I snagged the last order, continues to be a treasured favorite of mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was lucky to go to Rintaro with a couple of friends who live nearby and frequent the restaurant, so despite the barrage of diverse, grilled chicken parts we'd just eaten, they insisted on trying the \u003cstrong>udon carbonara\u003c/strong>. Kneaded and rolled in-house, Rintaro's udon is nearly fluffy were it not for its chew. The restaurant's take on carbonara looked incredibly simple. A bowl held a minimal tableau: a nest of off-white noodles, at its center a bright yellow egg yolk, and, off to the side, pale pink curls of shaved katsuobushi (dried and smoked skipjack tuna). We cracked the yolk—yes, on camera—and mixed in the katsuobushi until all the noodles were coated with both. My first bite was so good, as was my next and the one after that. Maybe yolk spill deserves the hype after all. Especially if it's dissolving flakes of salty, smokey fish, disappearing into a bowl of fresh noodles before it does the same into my mouth. —\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136388\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136388\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"At just six dollars a plate, the vegetable fried rice at the Oaks Card Club might be the safest bet in the house.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/OaksCardClub_FriedRice.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At just six dollars a plate, the vegetable fried rice at the Oaks Card Club might be the safest bet in the house. \u003ccite>(Sam Lefebvre)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Betting Over Fried Rice\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I’m clutching a piece of broccoli between chopsticks with one hand, and ceding $75 to a man wearing sunglasses and a Bad Boys Bail Bonds lanyard with the other. I haven’t been robbed while contenting myself with takeout, but it sort of feels that way. I’m at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oakscardclub.com/\">Oaks Card Club\u003c/a> in Emeryville, eating vegetable fried rice off a porcelain platter at a game of Texas hold ‘em. And what minutes ago seemed like an affordable, generous serving of food is becoming increasingly expensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Oaks is attached to a sports bar and cafeteria-style restaurant with a dim-lit warren of cushiony booths. It is a hofbrau—historically, in California, a drinking establishment with trays and carved-to-order beef and poultry—but in an idiosyncrasy befitting the Oaks’ polyglot clientele, there’s also Chinese and Vietnamese fare. (Incidentally, the Oaks is \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/19460/oaks-card-club-owner-says-hearing-on-reopening-tomorrow\">no longer the only local hofbrau\u003c/a> known to federal agents.) The prices are modest, and gamblers receive a discount when they order from the card table. Like the games, some food items are served 24/7.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d ordered the \u003cstrong>vegetable fried rice with bok choy, mushrooms and broccoli\u003c/strong>. On other visits I added tofu, but found it under-seasoned and undercooked. It cost $6, and I gave the server $10. Karmic deposit? Partly. The Oaks brings in somewhere around $100 million annually, judging by municipal tax documents, yet its union servers have still had to picket for fair wages and healthcare. Anyway, professional critics tend to disparage the food here. But I don’t think they’ve gone broke and taken leftovers with extra garlic chili sauce to go—because the next day, it tastes rich. —\u003cem>Sam Lefebvre, Arts Reporter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BE9IHqKhtWq"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003ch2>HeyDay's Hard-to-Forget Cauliflower Sandwich\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As an office worker in the land of $15 salads containing little more than just lettuce, I’ve gotten into the habit of bringing a more filling and nutritious lunch from home. But after a weekend of going out too much and missing my regular grocery run, a coworker invited me to \u003ca href=\"http://www.heydaysf.com/\">HeyDay\u003c/a>—my new favorite lunch spot in downtown San Francisco. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On my first visit, I tried a \u003cstrong>roasted cauliflower sandwich\u003c/strong> with thick, flaky slices of pecorino cheese on an Acme baguette. Dressed with aioli, and with a big helping of arugula inside, the sandwich surprised me with its mingling of different flavors and textures. The flavorful, seasoned cauliflower was moist, and provided a soft counterpoint to the hard cheese and crunchy greens. I paired it with a decadently spiced Moroccan chickpea salad—a combo that came out under $12 and kept me full until my after-work gym sesh.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_118638,bayareabites_136123,bayareabites_136299","label":"Still More Flavors Worth Finding "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn’t stop thinking about that lunch in the days that followed—something about the toothsome juxtaposition of well-seasoned cauliflower next to salty cheese. Since that discovery, my HeyDay stamp card has already gotten to be 30% full. I also tried the kale salad with toasted sunflower seeds and yogurt-avocado, as well as a more filling salad with arugula, farro, marinated mushrooms, tofu, beets and dried cranberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As someone who tries to eat healthy and vegetarian during the week, and indulges during weekend meals out, HeyDay is sure to become part of my routine. —\u003cem>Nastia Voynovskaya, Associate Arts Editor\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136377/flavors-worth-finding-yolk-spill-vegetarian-value-and-fried-rice-to-bet-on","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_334","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_16353","bayareabites_785","bayareabites_16542","bayareabites_16622","bayareabites_16536","bayareabites_12213","bayareabites_16539","bayareabites_10422","bayareabites_16538","bayareabites_16540","bayareabites_15847","bayareabites_16541","bayareabites_16543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136389","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_68199":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68199","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68199","score":null,"sort":[1376491133000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell","title":"In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell","publishDate":1376491133,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68210\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68210\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura McCandlish, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/14/211388320/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/14/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#broth\">Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#moqueca\">Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#rice\">Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#banhmi\">Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#rolls\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think a great benefit of living in Maine is unlimited access to fresh, cheap lobster. Most Mainers, however, probably eat less lobster in a year than tourists here consume in a week. Lobster bakes and boiling lobsters in those tall, speckled pots are grudgingly reserved for when company comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a less fussy alternative, we treat our guests to lobster rolls. Fortunately, a lobsterman and his wife run \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g40541-d1932364-Reviews-Libby_s_Market-Brunswick_Maine.html\">a convenience store\u003c/a> just down the road from me in Brunswick where they make some of the best ones around. These days, though, it's getting to be more affordable to make your own lobster rolls. There were a record number of lobsters harvested in 2012, and the price for shelled meat dipped as low as $24 a pound. A lobster roll with a quarter pound of meat can cost $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">L\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">obster rolls are all the rage\u003c/a> this summer, everywhere from New York City food trucks to high-end establishments. It's even on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2012/08/cheap-lobster-rolls-maine-northeast-mclobster-fast-food-sandwiches.html\">many fast food restaurants\u003c/a> throughout New England. (What ever happened to that elusive \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/07/mclobster-canada-mcdonalds.html\">McLobster\u003c/a> roll?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>you don't have to limit yourself to dressing lobster with heavy mayonnaise. My father, who has been coming to Belgrade Lakes since childhood (the same spot E.B. White extols in \u003ca href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/lanzbom/EBWhiteLakeEssay.pdf\">\"Once More to the Lake\")\u003c/a>, has experimented wildly in recent years. He has married lobster to tangy coconut milk in a Brazilian \u003cem>moqueca\u003c/em> seafood stew, a fusion dish he now enhances with Thai eggplant and green curry paste. Dad still makes rolls, too, with lobster in a lighter bath of butter. I tend to favor vinaigrette lobster salads, made with light rice wine vinegar and citrus juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster lends itself to most cuisines, especially Vietnamese and Thai. There's hardly a Maine restaurant that doesn't have lobster on the menu. I've recently seen lobster tikka masala, lobster jambalaya and lobster-chanterelle mushroom tacos advertised. There are, of course, many Italian preparations such as lobster \u003cem>fra divalo\u003c/em>, lobster ravioli, truffled lobster mac 'n' cheese and lobster risotto, a dish made for early summer's fresh peas. This winter, I watched chef Tim O'Brien of Brunswick's Trattoria Athena and Enoteca Athena make stunning squid ink pasta purses stuffed with chopped lobster and fennel pollen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that it's peak lobster season, I thought it was high time to cook up a load of live soft-shells (or shedders), to mark the conclusion of my first full year in Vacationland. I have managed to dodge the task until now. When my grandmother wanted lobster for her birthday, we asked the seafood counter to cook them. Nonny would meticulously pick the bodies for every last morsel, even devouring the green tomalley and coral roe. My vegetarian-leaning mother-in-law says she only cooked lobster once, when she live on Cape Cod. Those crustaceans\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>skittering about in the fridge, as if sensing their impending doom, unnerved her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I now understand. It was stressful enough just transporting the lobsters home without having them die in the car from heat stroke. Then there was the question of whether to kill them first or boil them alive. I had the option of cutting up a live, raw lobster. Julia Child says the French do for \u003cem>bisque de homard\u003c/em>, and it's the preparation Eileen Yin-Fei Lo uses before she stir-fries lobster in black bean sauce in \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking\u003c/em>. Then, there was the question of how long to cook them. Not to mention a smelly mess of shells to discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the humane decision to first briefly numb the lobsters in the freezer, then \u003ca href=\"http://www.finecooking.com/item/11058/video-how-to-kill-a-lobster\">kill them belly up\u003c/a>, with a plunge of a knife into the head, drawn down into the mid-section. I then consulted Thomas Keller's \"The French Laundry Cookbook\" for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/french-laundry-techniques-for-cooking-lobster\">tips on how to gently steep the lobster\u003c/a> so it can then be butter-poached, slow-roasted or chopped for a filling without toughening up. Keller steeps lobsters in boiling water (with 1/2 cup of white distilled vinegar added for every 8 quarts) for only 2 to 3 minutes, then returns the claws to the hot bath for another 5 minutes. I kept mine in longer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/08/dining/lobster-stew-with-a-pastry-lid-for-your-valentine.html\">per the 6-minute boil recommended\u003c/a> by former Chez Panisse chef David Tanis in his \u003cem>New York Times \u003c/em>column. \"It's essential to work with the 'steeped' lobsters while they are still hot,\" Thomas Keller says in \"The French Laundry.\" \"If they cool, the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be difficult to remove from the shell.\" Use gloves. Heavy-duty kitchen shears often work best for shelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster roll outfits only go after the meaty claws and tails, and don't waste time on the bodies. But it's worth reserving them at home for lobster stock. To save money, ask your seafood counter for culls, lobsters maybe missing a claw that are otherwise healthy. My waterfront\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://harpswellmaine.org/lobster/\">source in nearby Harpswell\u003c/a> sold them to me for only $3.25 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with \u003ca href=\"http://www.shucksmaine.com/\">raw whole meat\u003c/a> separated from the shell by centrifuge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So eat your Maine lobster now, while it's still plentiful. Though \"wild\" Maine lobster recently \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/newsroom/news/maine-lobster-fishery-achieves-marine-stewardship-council-certification-maine-governor-makes-announcement-at-boston-seafood-show\">earned certification\u003c/a> as a sustainable, well-managed fishery, the state's iconic seafood, now practically \u003ca href=\"http://www.downeast.com/node/25499\">\"farmed\" as a monoculture, is increasingly vulnerable\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bostonglobe.com/business/2013/08/11/lobster-shell-disease-creeping-northward-maine/7zkeynDtVu5ON5PhSuKR1N/story.html\" target=\"_blank\">disease\u003c/a> and other threats from climate change. Time to get cracking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"broth\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A side benefit of shelling lobster is simmering those meaty bodies down into a sweet stock or consomme. Maybe a seafood shack would even give you their discards for free. This recipe is adapted from the luxurious canape soup in Thomas Keller's \u003c/em>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003cem> (Artisan, 1999). The tarragon here is a natural pairing with lobster. I added boiled chunks of new potatoes, steamed corn cut off the cob and chopped scallions at the end to make a meatless chowder of sorts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68212\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings (2 cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup neutral vegetable oil (I used grape-seed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lobster bodies, reserved after eating tail and claws (12 ounces total, cut into quarters)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (I used canned)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup chopped carrots\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 small new potatoes, boiled and cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ear of corn, steamed and kernels cut off cob\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup scallions, chopped for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the oil in a large \u003cem>rondeau\u003c/em>, or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add the lobster shells and sear over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily, do it in 2 batches.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomatoes, carrots and tarragon, cover the shells and vegetables with water and bring to a boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or \u003cem>chinois \u003c/em>into a clean saucepan, smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden spoon to extract all the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream, return to a simmer, and cook, skimming occasionally, until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. (At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill, or for up to 3 days.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, whisk the broth vigorously on a medium burner as you reheat it. Add the chunked potatoes and corn and stir in until warm. Pour the rich, hot broth into demitasse cups or other small mugs and garnish with scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"moqueca\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is from John Atkinson, my parents' neighbor in Belgrade Lakes. He uses small Maine shrimp instead of lobster. Any seafood combination is delicious here, so feel free to experiment. John says he first discovered moqueca at the Bargaco restaurant in Recife, Brazil, in 1989. My Brazilian brother-in-law Salo Coslovsky says there are endless variations on \u003c/em>moqueca \u003cem>— in Bahia, it must be garnished with red palm oil, while in Capixaba (in the state of Espirito Santo) no palm oil is used. Palm oil can be found at ethnic markets, high-end grocers and ordered from \u003ca href=\"http://amigofoods.com/\">AmigoFoods.com\u003c/a>. Brazilians also always serve \u003c/em>moqueca\u003cem> over rice, though I didn't. \"Other than that, it's a free for all,\" Salo says. My father has made a combination dish using this recipe and Ivy Manning's for zebra eggplant green curry in her \u003c/em>The Farm to Table Cookbook\u003cem> (Sasquatch Publishers 2008). The fragrant Thai basil here is a nod to that influence.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68213\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 generous dinner servings (over rice)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds fresh or defrosted white fish fillets, cut into spoon-size chunks (I used hake; John recommends cod)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound shelled lobster meat (slightly undercooked if possible), cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 limes, juiced (or bottled lime juice)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large green pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large red bell pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 tablespoons cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons parsley, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons basil, chopped (preferably Thai basil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice (or use fresh ones)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste (or substitute smoked paprika)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons dendê (red palm) oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese piri-piri or other hot pepper sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place fish and lobster pieces in two separate shallow pans or bowls, coat with lime juice, sprinkle with salt and black pepper to taste, toss gently to combine, cover and refrigerate for about an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put olive oil in a large Dutch oven or wok over medium heat. Add onion and chopped bell peppers. Cook until the onions are nearly translucent, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Added chopped cilantro, parsley and basil (reserving some for garnish) and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add diced tomatoes and juice, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the vegetables begin to steam, add the marinated fish and cover for 10 to 12 minutes, until a low boil is established. Add marinated lobster chunks and cook another few minutes. Remove lid and gently stir in the coconut milk. Add red palm oil over the top (optional) and garnish with chopped cilantro and Thai basil. For a kick, shake on some piri piri or other hot sauce. Serve over rice (recommended).\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rice\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In the midst of lobster recipe testing, my Chinese friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.bowdoin.edu/faculty/l/lzuo/\">Leah Zuo\u003c/a> brought her fried rice to a dinner party. As I dallied in the kitchen, my husband brilliantly suggested topping her rice with sautéed lobster. Thus, a great dish was born.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68214\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons grape-seed or peanut oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup carrots, cubed and parboiled for 5 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup corn, freshly cut from cob, drained from can or defrosted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup peas, defrosted or freshly shelled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked jasmine rice, cooled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ground cumin or Moroccan seasoning blend, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minced Chinese pickled vegetable (available at Asian market) or kimchi, to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced scallions, green parts only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound shelled lobster meat, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fish sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A quarter lemon or lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Thai basil, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat eggs with cornstarch-water solution. Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok or skillet and turn heat to high, covering hot surface with oil. Add egg and cook, folding over into an omelet, until done. Transfer with a spatula to a plate and cut into bite-size pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put a second tablespoon of oil in wok and return heat to high. Add onion and sauté about 10 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown. Add parboiled carrots, corn and peas to skillet and stir-fry with onions until hot, about a minute or 2. Transfer cooked vegetables to a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put remaining oil in skillet, followed by garlic and ginger. Stir-fry briefly, then add the rice, bit by bit, breaking up any clumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return vegetables and egg pieces to skillet and stir to integrate. Season with Moroccan spices or cumin, and if available, minced Chinese preserved vegetable (mustard plant stem) or kimchi to taste. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from heat and stir in scallions and cilantro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate pan, melt butter and add shelled lobster meat, heating until fully cooked. Season with fish sauce, soy sauce, a spritz of lemon or lime and Thai basil. Incorporate with fried rice and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"banhmi\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan and Tina Libby of the humble Libby's Market in Brunswick, Maine, make some of the best lobster rolls around. Their formula: scissor-cut the freshly shelled meat into even chunks, coat with a thick and heavy mayo and pile onto griddled Italian sub rolls fresh from Sorella's Bakehouse in nearby Portland's East Bayside neighborhood. Former Bar Boulud chef Damian Sansonetti, who recently opened Blue Rooster Food Co. in the Old Port, also uses these choice Sorella's buns on his lobster roll banh mi. His feature crispy pork skin and a house mayo made with a rich lobster. Saigon Sisters in Chicago also is known for its lobster banh mi. Joe Ricchio,as a waiter back at Portland's original Food Factory Miyake, gave us a tip to always pair lobster with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, tangy with rice vinegar (never mind the MSG). It's widely available at Asian markets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68215\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 to 3 sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/06/133468797/spice-up-your-super-bowl-with-sriracha-sauce\">Sriracha sauce\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound lobster meat, cut into bite-size morsels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 French baguette, two Italian sub rolls or split-top hot dog buns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/vietnamese_daikon_and_carrot_pickles/\">Vietnamese daikon radish and carrot pickles\u003c/a>, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 fresh jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thai basil, cilantro, tarragon and/or mint, chopped, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mayo, Sriracha and lime juice together. Combine with lobster meat, stirring to coat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter bread and toast, face down in a cast iron pan. Layer with lobster salad, Vietnamese daikon-carrot pickles, sliced jalapenos, chopped herbs, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rolls\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had a magical compressed watermelon and butter-poached lobster tail rice paper roll at Tao Yuan's monthly dim sum brunch in Brunswick. Unfortunately, I lack the chamber vacuum sealer and sous vide cooker chef Cara Stadler employed in its creation. So here's a simpler version, inspired by a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/recipes/1014829/Lobster-Summer-Rolls.html\">David Tanis recipe\u003c/a>. See this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/25/161752021/a-roll-for-all-seasons-wrapped-in-rice-paper\">Kitchen Window on rice paper rolls for more inspiration\u003c/a>. You might prefer a lighter \u003c/em>nuoc cham\u003cem> fish sauce-based dipping sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68216\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 medium-sized rolls\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolls\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound cooked lobster claw meat, sliced in half length-wise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, zest grated and then juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted in a pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kewpie mayo, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe avocado, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe mango or 1 cup watermelon, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cucumber, peeled and cut into julienne strips (preferably less seedy Asian variety)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice paper wrappers (I used 8-inch rounds)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup basil leaves (preferably Thai)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup spearmint leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro springs, destemmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scallions, slivered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons black sesame seeds (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup cashew nut butter (or just use natural peanut butter)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons hoisin sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup (or honey)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine lobster meat with lime juice, zest, ginger, rice wine vinegar and a couple dashes of fish sauce in a bowl. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk together dipping sauce ingredients and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare cucumber, avocado, mango and fresh herb leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt butter in pan, turn off and add marinated lobster. Toss in warm butter to bring to room temperature. Add some Kewpie mayo and Sriracha to taste and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individually dip rice paper wrappers in bowl of lukewarm water, then transfer to a towel-lined plate or cutting board. Use two wrappers for a sturdier roll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay one-quarter of the lobster mixture on the lower third of the softened wrapper, then lightly cover with herb leaves. Layer on cucumber, avocado and mango strips. Top with scallion slivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll up burrito-style, folding in the left and right edges and pressing down to help them stick. Roll away from you, compressing the enclosed ingredients\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Sprinkle rolls with black sesame seeds as an optional garnish\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Eat whole (if you are lazy like me), or chill first and then slice in half before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Laura McCandlish is a food writer and radio producer who recently relocated from Oregon back East to Brunswick, Maine. She writes a food column for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://portland.thephoenix.com/Authors/LAURA-MCCANDLISH/\">The Portland Phoenix\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and is reporting on Maine's \u003ca href=\"http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2013/03/27/reconnecting-refugee-farmers-to-their-agricultural-roots-3/\">Somali community\u003c/a> with support from a \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/2013-nam-women-immigrants-fellowship.php\">New America Media Women Immigrants fellowship\u003c/a>. She previously reported for NPR member station \u003ca href=\"http://www.klcc.org/Feature.asp?FeatureID=2251\">KLCC\u003c/a> in Eugene, Ore, and contributed to \u003cem>The Oregonian's FOODday \u003c/em>section, \u003cem>Culinate\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Edible Portland\u003c/em>. She blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://baltimoregon.com/\" target=\"_blank\">baltimoregon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with raw whole meat separated from the shell by centrifuge.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1377065445,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":130,"wordCount":3069},"headData":{"title":"In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell | KQED","description":"It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with raw whole meat separated from the shell by centrifuge.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell","datePublished":"2013-08-14T14:38:53.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-21T06:10:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"68199 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68199","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/14/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell/","disqusTitle":"In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell","nprByline":"Laura McCandlish","nprStoryId":"211388320","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=211388320&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/14/211388320/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell?ft=3&f=211388320","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 14 Aug 2013 01:57:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 14 Aug 2013 00:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 14 Aug 2013 01:57:32 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/68199/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68210\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68210\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura McCandlish, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/14/211388320/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/14/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#broth\">Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#moqueca\">Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#rice\">Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#banhmi\">Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#rolls\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think a great benefit of living in Maine is unlimited access to fresh, cheap lobster. Most Mainers, however, probably eat less lobster in a year than tourists here consume in a week. Lobster bakes and boiling lobsters in those tall, speckled pots are grudgingly reserved for when company comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a less fussy alternative, we treat our guests to lobster rolls. Fortunately, a lobsterman and his wife run \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g40541-d1932364-Reviews-Libby_s_Market-Brunswick_Maine.html\">a convenience store\u003c/a> just down the road from me in Brunswick where they make some of the best ones around. These days, though, it's getting to be more affordable to make your own lobster rolls. There were a record number of lobsters harvested in 2012, and the price for shelled meat dipped as low as $24 a pound. A lobster roll with a quarter pound of meat can cost $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">L\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">obster rolls are all the rage\u003c/a> this summer, everywhere from New York City food trucks to high-end establishments. It's even on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2012/08/cheap-lobster-rolls-maine-northeast-mclobster-fast-food-sandwiches.html\">many fast food restaurants\u003c/a> throughout New England. (What ever happened to that elusive \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/07/mclobster-canada-mcdonalds.html\">McLobster\u003c/a> roll?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>you don't have to limit yourself to dressing lobster with heavy mayonnaise. My father, who has been coming to Belgrade Lakes since childhood (the same spot E.B. White extols in \u003ca href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/lanzbom/EBWhiteLakeEssay.pdf\">\"Once More to the Lake\")\u003c/a>, has experimented wildly in recent years. He has married lobster to tangy coconut milk in a Brazilian \u003cem>moqueca\u003c/em> seafood stew, a fusion dish he now enhances with Thai eggplant and green curry paste. Dad still makes rolls, too, with lobster in a lighter bath of butter. I tend to favor vinaigrette lobster salads, made with light rice wine vinegar and citrus juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster lends itself to most cuisines, especially Vietnamese and Thai. There's hardly a Maine restaurant that doesn't have lobster on the menu. I've recently seen lobster tikka masala, lobster jambalaya and lobster-chanterelle mushroom tacos advertised. There are, of course, many Italian preparations such as lobster \u003cem>fra divalo\u003c/em>, lobster ravioli, truffled lobster mac 'n' cheese and lobster risotto, a dish made for early summer's fresh peas. This winter, I watched chef Tim O'Brien of Brunswick's Trattoria Athena and Enoteca Athena make stunning squid ink pasta purses stuffed with chopped lobster and fennel pollen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that it's peak lobster season, I thought it was high time to cook up a load of live soft-shells (or shedders), to mark the conclusion of my first full year in Vacationland. I have managed to dodge the task until now. When my grandmother wanted lobster for her birthday, we asked the seafood counter to cook them. Nonny would meticulously pick the bodies for every last morsel, even devouring the green tomalley and coral roe. My vegetarian-leaning mother-in-law says she only cooked lobster once, when she live on Cape Cod. Those crustaceans\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>skittering about in the fridge, as if sensing their impending doom, unnerved her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I now understand. It was stressful enough just transporting the lobsters home without having them die in the car from heat stroke. Then there was the question of whether to kill them first or boil them alive. I had the option of cutting up a live, raw lobster. Julia Child says the French do for \u003cem>bisque de homard\u003c/em>, and it's the preparation Eileen Yin-Fei Lo uses before she stir-fries lobster in black bean sauce in \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking\u003c/em>. Then, there was the question of how long to cook them. Not to mention a smelly mess of shells to discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the humane decision to first briefly numb the lobsters in the freezer, then \u003ca href=\"http://www.finecooking.com/item/11058/video-how-to-kill-a-lobster\">kill them belly up\u003c/a>, with a plunge of a knife into the head, drawn down into the mid-section. I then consulted Thomas Keller's \"The French Laundry Cookbook\" for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/french-laundry-techniques-for-cooking-lobster\">tips on how to gently steep the lobster\u003c/a> so it can then be butter-poached, slow-roasted or chopped for a filling without toughening up. Keller steeps lobsters in boiling water (with 1/2 cup of white distilled vinegar added for every 8 quarts) for only 2 to 3 minutes, then returns the claws to the hot bath for another 5 minutes. I kept mine in longer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/08/dining/lobster-stew-with-a-pastry-lid-for-your-valentine.html\">per the 6-minute boil recommended\u003c/a> by former Chez Panisse chef David Tanis in his \u003cem>New York Times \u003c/em>column. \"It's essential to work with the 'steeped' lobsters while they are still hot,\" Thomas Keller says in \"The French Laundry.\" \"If they cool, the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be difficult to remove from the shell.\" Use gloves. Heavy-duty kitchen shears often work best for shelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster roll outfits only go after the meaty claws and tails, and don't waste time on the bodies. But it's worth reserving them at home for lobster stock. To save money, ask your seafood counter for culls, lobsters maybe missing a claw that are otherwise healthy. My waterfront\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://harpswellmaine.org/lobster/\">source in nearby Harpswell\u003c/a> sold them to me for only $3.25 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with \u003ca href=\"http://www.shucksmaine.com/\">raw whole meat\u003c/a> separated from the shell by centrifuge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So eat your Maine lobster now, while it's still plentiful. Though \"wild\" Maine lobster recently \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/newsroom/news/maine-lobster-fishery-achieves-marine-stewardship-council-certification-maine-governor-makes-announcement-at-boston-seafood-show\">earned certification\u003c/a> as a sustainable, well-managed fishery, the state's iconic seafood, now practically \u003ca href=\"http://www.downeast.com/node/25499\">\"farmed\" as a monoculture, is increasingly vulnerable\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bostonglobe.com/business/2013/08/11/lobster-shell-disease-creeping-northward-maine/7zkeynDtVu5ON5PhSuKR1N/story.html\" target=\"_blank\">disease\u003c/a> and other threats from climate change. Time to get cracking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"broth\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A side benefit of shelling lobster is simmering those meaty bodies down into a sweet stock or consomme. Maybe a seafood shack would even give you their discards for free. This recipe is adapted from the luxurious canape soup in Thomas Keller's \u003c/em>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003cem> (Artisan, 1999). The tarragon here is a natural pairing with lobster. I added boiled chunks of new potatoes, steamed corn cut off the cob and chopped scallions at the end to make a meatless chowder of sorts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68212\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings (2 cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup neutral vegetable oil (I used grape-seed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lobster bodies, reserved after eating tail and claws (12 ounces total, cut into quarters)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (I used canned)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup chopped carrots\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 small new potatoes, boiled and cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ear of corn, steamed and kernels cut off cob\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup scallions, chopped for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the oil in a large \u003cem>rondeau\u003c/em>, or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add the lobster shells and sear over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily, do it in 2 batches.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomatoes, carrots and tarragon, cover the shells and vegetables with water and bring to a boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or \u003cem>chinois \u003c/em>into a clean saucepan, smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden spoon to extract all the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream, return to a simmer, and cook, skimming occasionally, until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. (At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill, or for up to 3 days.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, whisk the broth vigorously on a medium burner as you reheat it. Add the chunked potatoes and corn and stir in until warm. Pour the rich, hot broth into demitasse cups or other small mugs and garnish with scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"moqueca\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is from John Atkinson, my parents' neighbor in Belgrade Lakes. He uses small Maine shrimp instead of lobster. Any seafood combination is delicious here, so feel free to experiment. John says he first discovered moqueca at the Bargaco restaurant in Recife, Brazil, in 1989. My Brazilian brother-in-law Salo Coslovsky says there are endless variations on \u003c/em>moqueca \u003cem>— in Bahia, it must be garnished with red palm oil, while in Capixaba (in the state of Espirito Santo) no palm oil is used. Palm oil can be found at ethnic markets, high-end grocers and ordered from \u003ca href=\"http://amigofoods.com/\">AmigoFoods.com\u003c/a>. Brazilians also always serve \u003c/em>moqueca\u003cem> over rice, though I didn't. \"Other than that, it's a free for all,\" Salo says. My father has made a combination dish using this recipe and Ivy Manning's for zebra eggplant green curry in her \u003c/em>The Farm to Table Cookbook\u003cem> (Sasquatch Publishers 2008). The fragrant Thai basil here is a nod to that influence.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68213\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 generous dinner servings (over rice)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds fresh or defrosted white fish fillets, cut into spoon-size chunks (I used hake; John recommends cod)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound shelled lobster meat (slightly undercooked if possible), cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 limes, juiced (or bottled lime juice)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large green pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large red bell pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 tablespoons cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons parsley, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons basil, chopped (preferably Thai basil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice (or use fresh ones)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste (or substitute smoked paprika)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons dendê (red palm) oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese piri-piri or other hot pepper sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place fish and lobster pieces in two separate shallow pans or bowls, coat with lime juice, sprinkle with salt and black pepper to taste, toss gently to combine, cover and refrigerate for about an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put olive oil in a large Dutch oven or wok over medium heat. Add onion and chopped bell peppers. Cook until the onions are nearly translucent, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Added chopped cilantro, parsley and basil (reserving some for garnish) and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add diced tomatoes and juice, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the vegetables begin to steam, add the marinated fish and cover for 10 to 12 minutes, until a low boil is established. Add marinated lobster chunks and cook another few minutes. Remove lid and gently stir in the coconut milk. Add red palm oil over the top (optional) and garnish with chopped cilantro and Thai basil. For a kick, shake on some piri piri or other hot sauce. Serve over rice (recommended).\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rice\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In the midst of lobster recipe testing, my Chinese friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.bowdoin.edu/faculty/l/lzuo/\">Leah Zuo\u003c/a> brought her fried rice to a dinner party. As I dallied in the kitchen, my husband brilliantly suggested topping her rice with sautéed lobster. Thus, a great dish was born.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68214\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons grape-seed or peanut oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup carrots, cubed and parboiled for 5 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup corn, freshly cut from cob, drained from can or defrosted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup peas, defrosted or freshly shelled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked jasmine rice, cooled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ground cumin or Moroccan seasoning blend, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minced Chinese pickled vegetable (available at Asian market) or kimchi, to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced scallions, green parts only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound shelled lobster meat, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fish sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A quarter lemon or lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Thai basil, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat eggs with cornstarch-water solution. Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok or skillet and turn heat to high, covering hot surface with oil. Add egg and cook, folding over into an omelet, until done. Transfer with a spatula to a plate and cut into bite-size pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put a second tablespoon of oil in wok and return heat to high. Add onion and sauté about 10 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown. Add parboiled carrots, corn and peas to skillet and stir-fry with onions until hot, about a minute or 2. Transfer cooked vegetables to a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put remaining oil in skillet, followed by garlic and ginger. Stir-fry briefly, then add the rice, bit by bit, breaking up any clumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return vegetables and egg pieces to skillet and stir to integrate. Season with Moroccan spices or cumin, and if available, minced Chinese preserved vegetable (mustard plant stem) or kimchi to taste. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from heat and stir in scallions and cilantro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate pan, melt butter and add shelled lobster meat, heating until fully cooked. Season with fish sauce, soy sauce, a spritz of lemon or lime and Thai basil. Incorporate with fried rice and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"banhmi\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan and Tina Libby of the humble Libby's Market in Brunswick, Maine, make some of the best lobster rolls around. Their formula: scissor-cut the freshly shelled meat into even chunks, coat with a thick and heavy mayo and pile onto griddled Italian sub rolls fresh from Sorella's Bakehouse in nearby Portland's East Bayside neighborhood. Former Bar Boulud chef Damian Sansonetti, who recently opened Blue Rooster Food Co. in the Old Port, also uses these choice Sorella's buns on his lobster roll banh mi. His feature crispy pork skin and a house mayo made with a rich lobster. Saigon Sisters in Chicago also is known for its lobster banh mi. Joe Ricchio,as a waiter back at Portland's original Food Factory Miyake, gave us a tip to always pair lobster with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, tangy with rice vinegar (never mind the MSG). It's widely available at Asian markets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68215\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 to 3 sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/06/133468797/spice-up-your-super-bowl-with-sriracha-sauce\">Sriracha sauce\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound lobster meat, cut into bite-size morsels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 French baguette, two Italian sub rolls or split-top hot dog buns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/vietnamese_daikon_and_carrot_pickles/\">Vietnamese daikon radish and carrot pickles\u003c/a>, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 fresh jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thai basil, cilantro, tarragon and/or mint, chopped, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mayo, Sriracha and lime juice together. Combine with lobster meat, stirring to coat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter bread and toast, face down in a cast iron pan. Layer with lobster salad, Vietnamese daikon-carrot pickles, sliced jalapenos, chopped herbs, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rolls\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had a magical compressed watermelon and butter-poached lobster tail rice paper roll at Tao Yuan's monthly dim sum brunch in Brunswick. Unfortunately, I lack the chamber vacuum sealer and sous vide cooker chef Cara Stadler employed in its creation. So here's a simpler version, inspired by a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/recipes/1014829/Lobster-Summer-Rolls.html\">David Tanis recipe\u003c/a>. See this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/25/161752021/a-roll-for-all-seasons-wrapped-in-rice-paper\">Kitchen Window on rice paper rolls for more inspiration\u003c/a>. You might prefer a lighter \u003c/em>nuoc cham\u003cem> fish sauce-based dipping sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68216\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 medium-sized rolls\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolls\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound cooked lobster claw meat, sliced in half length-wise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, zest grated and then juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted in a pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kewpie mayo, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe avocado, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe mango or 1 cup watermelon, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cucumber, peeled and cut into julienne strips (preferably less seedy Asian variety)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice paper wrappers (I used 8-inch rounds)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup basil leaves (preferably Thai)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup spearmint leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro springs, destemmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scallions, slivered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons black sesame seeds (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup cashew nut butter (or just use natural peanut butter)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons hoisin sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup (or honey)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine lobster meat with lime juice, zest, ginger, rice wine vinegar and a couple dashes of fish sauce in a bowl. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk together dipping sauce ingredients and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare cucumber, avocado, mango and fresh herb leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt butter in pan, turn off and add marinated lobster. Toss in warm butter to bring to room temperature. Add some Kewpie mayo and Sriracha to taste and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individually dip rice paper wrappers in bowl of lukewarm water, then transfer to a towel-lined plate or cutting board. Use two wrappers for a sturdier roll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay one-quarter of the lobster mixture on the lower third of the softened wrapper, then lightly cover with herb leaves. Layer on cucumber, avocado and mango strips. Top with scallion slivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll up burrito-style, folding in the left and right edges and pressing down to help them stick. Roll away from you, compressing the enclosed ingredients\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Sprinkle rolls with black sesame seeds as an optional garnish\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Eat whole (if you are lazy like me), or chill first and then slice in half before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Laura McCandlish is a food writer and radio producer who recently relocated from Oregon back East to Brunswick, Maine. She writes a food column for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://portland.thephoenix.com/Authors/LAURA-MCCANDLISH/\">The Portland Phoenix\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and is reporting on Maine's \u003ca href=\"http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2013/03/27/reconnecting-refugee-farmers-to-their-agricultural-roots-3/\">Somali community\u003c/a> with support from a \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/2013-nam-women-immigrants-fellowship.php\">New America Media Women Immigrants fellowship\u003c/a>. She previously reported for NPR member station \u003ca href=\"http://www.klcc.org/Feature.asp?FeatureID=2251\">KLCC\u003c/a> in Eugene, Ore, and contributed to \u003cem>The Oregonian's FOODday \u003c/em>section, \u003cem>Culinate\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Edible Portland\u003c/em>. She blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://baltimoregon.com/\" target=\"_blank\">baltimoregon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68199/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell","authors":["byline_bayareabites_68199"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12213","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_12212","bayareabites_11888","bayareabites_12214"],"featImg":"bayareabites_68211","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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