One Man's Quest To Reinvent The Wheel — The Flavor Wheel, That Is
From Kale To Pale Ale, A Love of Bitter May Be In Your Genes
Real Vanilla Isn't Plain. It Depends On (Dare We Say It) Terroir
The Cotton Candy Grape: A Sweet Spin On Designer Fruit
Your Choice In Utensils Can Change How Food Tastes
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There's the popular wine wheel, of course, but spices, oysters, beef, chocolate, coffee, bread and cigars also spin to their own wheels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now \u003ca href=\"http://www.he.k-state.edu/fndh/people/faculty/echambers/\">Edgar Chambers\u003c/a> is out to rock the sensory world. What Chambers has in mind is a flavor tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Flavor is a multi-dimensional thing,\" says Chambers, a sensory and consumer behavior scientist at Kansas State University in Manhattan, Kan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor wheels stem from lexicons, the carefully, often scientifically selected words used to describe a product, be it food, wine, carpet cleaner or dog food. These words provide industry insiders with a shared vocabulary to discuss a product with precision. In this way, dog food is not merely smelly, but characterized by notes of \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12017/abstract\">cardboard, grain and barnyard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not all lexicons need a wheel, tree or three-dimensional decagon. The only people who care about the sensory attributes of dog food, for instance, are those whose jobs entail discussing the unique flavor and aroma of chow. Only when a lexicon matters to those outside the inner sanctum do the sensory experts roll out the visuals. That's because ordinary sorts, and the marketers tasked with wooing them, Chambers says \"are looking for the pretty: an instant message.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first instant messages was not a wheel but a rainbow. In the 1950s, chemists at Arthur D. Little, Inc. developed what is thought to be the original descriptive sensory technique: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/chronicle/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Flavor-Lexicons.pdf\">Flavor Profile Method\u003c/a>. To go from lexicon to image, those chemists suggested using key attributes, such as fruity, spicy and sweet, as the main colors on a rainbow, with sub-categories (those hints of apricot and licorice) appearing as non-dominant colors like azure, cyan and chartreuse. The words for intangible qualities --such as the \"cola\" flavor common to Coke and Pepsi — languished in the black zone below the rainbow. (What, after all, does a leprechaun taste like?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first ever flavor wheel – \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/chronicle/2016/04/27/the-science-behind-the-coffee-tasters-flavor-wheel/\">for beer\u003c/a> – appeared in the late 1970s, but the concept took off with the development of the \u003ca href=\"http://winearomawheel.com/\">Wine Aroma Wheel\u003c/a> in the mid-1980s. That wheel, says its inventor \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/people/emeriti/noble.html\">Ann Noble\u003c/a>, a sensory chemist and professor emerita at the University of California at Davis, took some of the mystique out of wine. With wheel in hand, people could traverse wineries in Napa, Calif., or the Bordeaux region of France and speak intelligently at tastings (at least early in the imbibing process).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other wheels followed suit, such as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/?page=resources&d=scaa-flavor-wheel\">one for coffee. \u003c/a>Though that wheel has been around since 1995, it recently received a major, science-driven overhaul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of flavor wheels runs the gamut, says Emma Sage, coffee science manager at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/\">Specialty Coffee Association of America\u003c/a>, one of the agencies spearheading the overhaul. At the amateur end are wheels drafted by some person writing a bunch of words around a wheel. On the other end is the SCAA, which worked with Chambers' team at Kansas State to develop the lexicon and then researchers at UC Davis — of wine wheel fame — to create the wheel, a process that took three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114409\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326.jpg\" alt=\"Edgar Chambers says that flavor is multi-dimensional, and the standard wheel doesn't adequately reflect that concept. So he's advocating a "flavor tree" instead.\" width=\"390\" height=\"293\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326.jpg 390w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-375x282.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 390px) 100vw, 390px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edgar Chambers says that flavor is multi-dimensional, and the standard wheel doesn't adequately reflect that concept. So he's advocating a \"flavor tree\" instead. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Kansas State University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To develop the lexicon, the Kansas State team had evaluators taste 105 coffees from 13 countries. Word categories emerged via complex statistic analyses. The new coffee flavor wheel now contains a whopping 110-word lexicon. In comparison, Sage says, most wheels contain just 30-60 words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's one reason why Chambers is keen to present those words in a more open-ended way – that is, a tree. The idea isn't entirely novel. Back in the late 1980s, a scientist working on the \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-2621.1988.tb13524.x/abstract\">flavor profile of fish\u003c/a> divided them into two branches -– fatty and oily -– and continued sprouting out from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the SCAA was unconvinced. \"We need a practical tool for industry,\" Sage says. \"When you're tasting coffee, you need to be able to look up on the wall and see a poster and just pick out a flavor. It's a rapid process.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Sage's group went to UC Davis and asked them to, well, re-invent the wheel. To be clear, the coffee flavor wheel \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1750-3841.13555/full\">is a gem\u003c/a>. Like other wheels, the main categories of the coffee wheel are at the center with sub-categories emanating outward. Related categories, such as fruity and sour/fermented, appear side-by-side on the wheel. And the wheel is color-coded to reflect the feel of a word –- for instance, vegetative is green, floral is pink and spices are red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the wheel is not a tree. And Chambers remains convinced that the future of flavor is multidimensional and virtual. In a paper appearing \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12237/abstract\">earlier this month\u003c/a> in the\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Journal of Sensory Studies,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Chambers slipped in a figure of what the coffee lexicon would have looked like as a tree. And he says he's thinking bigger than that two-dimensional mockup. Once flavor trees move online, he says, users could click on a given word in the lexicon and see all of its interconnected branches. (For an example of how this would work, Chambers recommends checking out \u003ca href=\"https://www.visualthesaurus.com/app/view\">Visual Thesaurus.\u003c/a>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor trees, Chambers thinks, will open up sensory science to a wider audience. In a conversation with his wife, \u003ca href=\"http://www.he.k-state.edu/fndh/people/faculty/dchambers/\">Delores Chambers\u003c/a>, also a sensory scientist at Kansas State and a cheese expert, the Chambers' envisioned a cell phone app that would allow people to scan the aisles at their local supermarket to identify which cheeses most closely match the impossible-to-find-one listed in their recipe. \"Some people would find it kind of useless,\" Chambers says, but \"I think it would be fascinating.\" (It should also come as no surprise that in a paper appearing earlier this month, Delores Chambers created a tree diagram to illustrate the flavor links between \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12239/abstract\">47 artisan goat cheeses\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Chambers says, he went to the International Quilt Show in Houston. There he saw \u003ca href=\"http://www.storytellingworld.com/13974/\">a quilt\u003c/a> depicting one person's face when viewed from the left, a second person's face when viewed from the right and a third person's face when viewed from the front. The quilt was an analogue for Chambers' vision for the future, in which a person could circumnavigate a tree in virtual space to see the sensory attributes of a food or product from different perspectives (flavor, texture, appearance and so on).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We could look at a flavor wheel from three dimensions and see three different pictures,\" Chambers says. \"How amazing would that be?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sensory scientist Edgar Chambers says flavor is multi-dimensional, and the current lexicon diagrams aren't doing it justice. So he wants to turn the wheel into a tree — with plenty of room to grow.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1483118502,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1139},"headData":{"title":"One Man's Quest To Reinvent The Wheel — The Flavor Wheel, That Is | KQED","description":"Sensory scientist Edgar Chambers says flavor is multi-dimensional, and the current lexicon diagrams aren't doing it justice. So he wants to turn the wheel into a tree — with plenty of room to grow.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"114407 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=114407","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/12/30/one-mans-quest-to-reinvent-the-wheel-the-flavor-wheel-that-is/","disqusTitle":"One Man's Quest To Reinvent The Wheel — The Flavor Wheel, That Is","source":"Food Trends and Technology","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/food-and-technology/","nprImageCredit":"Scott Suchman","nprByline":"Sujata Gupta, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"The Washington Post/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"506144786","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=506144786&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/12/30/506144786/one-mans-quest-to-reinvent-the-wheel-the-flavor-wheel-that-is?ft=nprml&f=506144786","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 30 Dec 2016 07:00:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 30 Dec 2016 07:00:04 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 30 Dec 2016 07:00:04 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/114407/one-mans-quest-to-reinvent-the-wheel-the-flavor-wheel-that-is","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It seems everything today has a flavor wheel, that color-coded, adjective-rich circle used to convey the sensory qualities of a product. There's the popular wine wheel, of course, but spices, oysters, beef, chocolate, coffee, bread and cigars also spin to their own wheels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now \u003ca href=\"http://www.he.k-state.edu/fndh/people/faculty/echambers/\">Edgar Chambers\u003c/a> is out to rock the sensory world. What Chambers has in mind is a flavor tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Flavor is a multi-dimensional thing,\" says Chambers, a sensory and consumer behavior scientist at Kansas State University in Manhattan, Kan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor wheels stem from lexicons, the carefully, often scientifically selected words used to describe a product, be it food, wine, carpet cleaner or dog food. These words provide industry insiders with a shared vocabulary to discuss a product with precision. In this way, dog food is not merely smelly, but characterized by notes of \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12017/abstract\">cardboard, grain and barnyard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not all lexicons need a wheel, tree or three-dimensional decagon. The only people who care about the sensory attributes of dog food, for instance, are those whose jobs entail discussing the unique flavor and aroma of chow. Only when a lexicon matters to those outside the inner sanctum do the sensory experts roll out the visuals. That's because ordinary sorts, and the marketers tasked with wooing them, Chambers says \"are looking for the pretty: an instant message.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first instant messages was not a wheel but a rainbow. In the 1950s, chemists at Arthur D. Little, Inc. developed what is thought to be the original descriptive sensory technique: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/chronicle/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Flavor-Lexicons.pdf\">Flavor Profile Method\u003c/a>. To go from lexicon to image, those chemists suggested using key attributes, such as fruity, spicy and sweet, as the main colors on a rainbow, with sub-categories (those hints of apricot and licorice) appearing as non-dominant colors like azure, cyan and chartreuse. The words for intangible qualities --such as the \"cola\" flavor common to Coke and Pepsi — languished in the black zone below the rainbow. (What, after all, does a leprechaun taste like?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first ever flavor wheel – \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/chronicle/2016/04/27/the-science-behind-the-coffee-tasters-flavor-wheel/\">for beer\u003c/a> – appeared in the late 1970s, but the concept took off with the development of the \u003ca href=\"http://winearomawheel.com/\">Wine Aroma Wheel\u003c/a> in the mid-1980s. That wheel, says its inventor \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/people/emeriti/noble.html\">Ann Noble\u003c/a>, a sensory chemist and professor emerita at the University of California at Davis, took some of the mystique out of wine. With wheel in hand, people could traverse wineries in Napa, Calif., or the Bordeaux region of France and speak intelligently at tastings (at least early in the imbibing process).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other wheels followed suit, such as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/?page=resources&d=scaa-flavor-wheel\">one for coffee. \u003c/a>Though that wheel has been around since 1995, it recently received a major, science-driven overhaul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of flavor wheels runs the gamut, says Emma Sage, coffee science manager at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/\">Specialty Coffee Association of America\u003c/a>, one of the agencies spearheading the overhaul. At the amateur end are wheels drafted by some person writing a bunch of words around a wheel. On the other end is the SCAA, which worked with Chambers' team at Kansas State to develop the lexicon and then researchers at UC Davis — of wine wheel fame — to create the wheel, a process that took three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114409\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326.jpg\" alt=\"Edgar Chambers says that flavor is multi-dimensional, and the standard wheel doesn't adequately reflect that concept. So he's advocating a "flavor tree" instead.\" width=\"390\" height=\"293\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326.jpg 390w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/flavortree1-7a69361d9f4760116c1fb7eb94ceeada4f2d1326-375x282.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 390px) 100vw, 390px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edgar Chambers says that flavor is multi-dimensional, and the standard wheel doesn't adequately reflect that concept. So he's advocating a \"flavor tree\" instead. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Kansas State University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To develop the lexicon, the Kansas State team had evaluators taste 105 coffees from 13 countries. Word categories emerged via complex statistic analyses. The new coffee flavor wheel now contains a whopping 110-word lexicon. In comparison, Sage says, most wheels contain just 30-60 words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's one reason why Chambers is keen to present those words in a more open-ended way – that is, a tree. The idea isn't entirely novel. Back in the late 1980s, a scientist working on the \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-2621.1988.tb13524.x/abstract\">flavor profile of fish\u003c/a> divided them into two branches -– fatty and oily -– and continued sprouting out from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the SCAA was unconvinced. \"We need a practical tool for industry,\" Sage says. \"When you're tasting coffee, you need to be able to look up on the wall and see a poster and just pick out a flavor. It's a rapid process.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Sage's group went to UC Davis and asked them to, well, re-invent the wheel. To be clear, the coffee flavor wheel \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1750-3841.13555/full\">is a gem\u003c/a>. Like other wheels, the main categories of the coffee wheel are at the center with sub-categories emanating outward. Related categories, such as fruity and sour/fermented, appear side-by-side on the wheel. And the wheel is color-coded to reflect the feel of a word –- for instance, vegetative is green, floral is pink and spices are red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the wheel is not a tree. And Chambers remains convinced that the future of flavor is multidimensional and virtual. In a paper appearing \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12237/abstract\">earlier this month\u003c/a> in the\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Journal of Sensory Studies,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Chambers slipped in a figure of what the coffee lexicon would have looked like as a tree. And he says he's thinking bigger than that two-dimensional mockup. Once flavor trees move online, he says, users could click on a given word in the lexicon and see all of its interconnected branches. (For an example of how this would work, Chambers recommends checking out \u003ca href=\"https://www.visualthesaurus.com/app/view\">Visual Thesaurus.\u003c/a>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor trees, Chambers thinks, will open up sensory science to a wider audience. In a conversation with his wife, \u003ca href=\"http://www.he.k-state.edu/fndh/people/faculty/dchambers/\">Delores Chambers\u003c/a>, also a sensory scientist at Kansas State and a cheese expert, the Chambers' envisioned a cell phone app that would allow people to scan the aisles at their local supermarket to identify which cheeses most closely match the impossible-to-find-one listed in their recipe. \"Some people would find it kind of useless,\" Chambers says, but \"I think it would be fascinating.\" (It should also come as no surprise that in a paper appearing earlier this month, Delores Chambers created a tree diagram to illustrate the flavor links between \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/joss.12239/abstract\">47 artisan goat cheeses\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Chambers says, he went to the International Quilt Show in Houston. There he saw \u003ca href=\"http://www.storytellingworld.com/13974/\">a quilt\u003c/a> depicting one person's face when viewed from the left, a second person's face when viewed from the right and a third person's face when viewed from the front. The quilt was an analogue for Chambers' vision for the future, in which a person could circumnavigate a tree in virtual space to see the sensory attributes of a food or product from different perspectives (flavor, texture, appearance and so on).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We could look at a flavor wheel from three dimensions and see three different pictures,\" Chambers says. \"How amazing would that be?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/114407/one-mans-quest-to-reinvent-the-wheel-the-flavor-wheel-that-is","authors":["byline_bayareabites_114407"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_11930","bayareabites_15710","bayareabites_15709"],"featImg":"bayareabites_114408","label":"source_bayareabites_114407"},"bayareabites_88267":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_88267","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"88267","score":null,"sort":[1412180892000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes","title":"From Kale To Pale Ale, A Love of Bitter May Be In Your Genes","publishDate":1412180892,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88268\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/kalebeer1_wide-479752f345d4d6a5eba632bb6dbae18b7eb14d89-e1412180649859.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/kalebeer1_wide-479752f345d4d6a5eba632bb6dbae18b7eb14d89-e1412180649859.jpg\" alt=\"The roots of your hankering for hoppy beers and cruciferous vegetables may be genetic. Photo: Claire Eggers/NPR\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88268\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The roots of your hankering for hoppy beers and cruciferous vegetables may be genetic. Photo: Claire Eggers/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on Morning Edition:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/10/20141001_me_from_kale_to_pale_ale_a_love_of_bitter_may_be_in_your_genes.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\" target=\"_blank\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/01/352771618/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/1/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word bitter can make some of us wince. In conversation, we talk of \"a bitter pill to swallow\" or \"bittersweet\" memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're puzzled by the bad emotional rap on bitter — perhaps you even \u003cem>like\u003c/em> the taste of bitter greens or bitter beer — it may say something about your genes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists have been studying a particular taste receptor gene to understand why some of us may be more predisposed to liking bitter foods and hoppy beers. And a new\u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25257701\"> study\u003c/a> sheds new light on the bitter gene connection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we're really looking at is that people differ in how intense bitterness might be to them,\" says researcher \u003ca href=\"http://foodscience.psu.edu/directory/jeh40\">John Hayes\u003c/a>, a food scientist at Penn State.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years back, Hayes and researcher \u003ca href=\"http://www.alliedhealth.uconn.edu/facultyAndStaff/ValerieDuffy.php\">Valerie Duffy\u003c/a> of the University of Connecticut set out to do an experiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They already knew that some people (about a quarter of the population) have a version of one taste receptor gene, known as TAS2R38, that makes them more sensitive to the perception of bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea of how bitter you taste something is [tied to] how strongly the bitter [compounds] in food bind with a receptor,\" explains Duffy. Then, the receptor sends a signal to the brain that says, \"Oh, this is bitter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy says she herself must not have a version of the gene that enables bitter compounds to bind tightly. She describes herself as a \"nontaster.\" So when she eat greens or Brussels sprouts, she experiences them as sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To me, they're naturally sweet,\" Duffy says. And she enjoys them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compare this with people who have a version of the receptor gene that makes them very sensitive to bitter. For these individuals, the strong perception of bitterness overwhelms the natural sweetness in greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy's hunch was that this may lead them to avoid greens. So she decided to test the theory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We recruited young adults and asked them to come into the lab and did taste tests with them,\" Duffy explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They sampled asparagus, Brussels sprouts and kale, and Duffy's team assessed their sensitivities. The young adult volunteers were also tested for the gene, and they filled out questionnaires and kept food diaries to document what they were eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We found that individuals who are least sensitive to these bitter compounds consumed \u003cem>significantly\u003c/em> more vegetables\" compared with those who are most sensitive, Duffy says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, over the course of a year, the difference was about 200 more servings of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy's study was not the first to find this association. Another \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17596267\">study\u003c/a>, conducted in 2007 at the Centre for Cancer Epidemiology and Prevention in Turin, Italy, with about 600 volunteers, pointed to the same link between the bitter gene and the consumption of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy says what surprised her about her \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157576\">findings\u003c/a> is that the people who were sensitive to bitter ate fewer of all kinds of vegetables, not just bitter, cruciferous ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we think [is that] if somebody finds some vegetables too bitter, they sort of generalize to all green vegetables,\" Duffy explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same study also found a connection with papillae, those little dots on your tongue that we've \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127914467\">reported\u003c/a> on in the past. People with more papillae reported eating more vegetables, compared with those with fewer papillae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This suggests that there are multiple factors, both biological and environmental, influencing our food and beverage choices, including — as Duffy is quick to point out — how our parents raise us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People can learn to like vegetables, Duffy says, even if they carry the version of the taste receptor gene that makes them more sensitive to bitter. A big piece of the puzzle is figuring out ways to make them taste good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, \"roasting brings out the sweetness,\" she says. Adding salt is also an effective way to cut the intensity of bitter. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=Masking+Vegetable+Bitterness+to+Improve+Duffy+and+Hayes\">study\u003c/a> she published previously demonstrates that it's possible to mask the bitterness in vegetables with salt and sweeteners to make them more palatable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does an aversion to bitter tend to be lifelong? Not necessarily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy points to studies that suggest there are changes over a lifetime. For instance, she says, we know that during pregnancy, many women become more sensitive to bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, in older age, as smell and taste perceptions begin to fade, the taste of bitter foods can seem much less intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Researchers have found a gene that affects how strongly you experience bitter flavors. And those who aren't as sensitive eat about 200 more servings of vegetables per year.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1412180892,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":785},"headData":{"title":"From Kale To Pale Ale, A Love of Bitter May Be In Your Genes | KQED","description":"Researchers have found a gene that affects how strongly you experience bitter flavors. And those who aren't as sensitive eat about 200 more servings of vegetables per year.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"88267 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=88267","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/10/01/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes/","disqusTitle":"From Kale To Pale Ale, A Love of Bitter May Be In Your Genes","nprByline":"Allison Aubrey","nprStoryId":"352771618","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=352771618&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/01/352771618/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes?ft=3&f=352771618","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 01 Oct 2014 08:53:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 01 Oct 2014 03:45:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 01 Oct 2014 08:53:20 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/10/20141001_me_from_kale_to_pale_ale_a_love_of_bitter_may_be_in_your_genes.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1134&ft=3&f=352771618","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1352925455-e5a8c1.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1134&ft=3&f=352771618","path":"/bayareabites/88267/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/10/20141001_me_from_kale_to_pale_ale_a_love_of_bitter_may_be_in_your_genes.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88268\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/kalebeer1_wide-479752f345d4d6a5eba632bb6dbae18b7eb14d89-e1412180649859.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/kalebeer1_wide-479752f345d4d6a5eba632bb6dbae18b7eb14d89-e1412180649859.jpg\" alt=\"The roots of your hankering for hoppy beers and cruciferous vegetables may be genetic. Photo: Claire Eggers/NPR\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88268\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The roots of your hankering for hoppy beers and cruciferous vegetables may be genetic. Photo: Claire Eggers/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on Morning Edition:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/10/20141001_me_from_kale_to_pale_ale_a_love_of_bitter_may_be_in_your_genes.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\" target=\"_blank\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/01/352771618/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/1/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word bitter can make some of us wince. In conversation, we talk of \"a bitter pill to swallow\" or \"bittersweet\" memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're puzzled by the bad emotional rap on bitter — perhaps you even \u003cem>like\u003c/em> the taste of bitter greens or bitter beer — it may say something about your genes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists have been studying a particular taste receptor gene to understand why some of us may be more predisposed to liking bitter foods and hoppy beers. And a new\u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25257701\"> study\u003c/a> sheds new light on the bitter gene connection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we're really looking at is that people differ in how intense bitterness might be to them,\" says researcher \u003ca href=\"http://foodscience.psu.edu/directory/jeh40\">John Hayes\u003c/a>, a food scientist at Penn State.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years back, Hayes and researcher \u003ca href=\"http://www.alliedhealth.uconn.edu/facultyAndStaff/ValerieDuffy.php\">Valerie Duffy\u003c/a> of the University of Connecticut set out to do an experiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They already knew that some people (about a quarter of the population) have a version of one taste receptor gene, known as TAS2R38, that makes them more sensitive to the perception of bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea of how bitter you taste something is [tied to] how strongly the bitter [compounds] in food bind with a receptor,\" explains Duffy. Then, the receptor sends a signal to the brain that says, \"Oh, this is bitter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy says she herself must not have a version of the gene that enables bitter compounds to bind tightly. She describes herself as a \"nontaster.\" So when she eat greens or Brussels sprouts, she experiences them as sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To me, they're naturally sweet,\" Duffy says. And she enjoys them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compare this with people who have a version of the receptor gene that makes them very sensitive to bitter. For these individuals, the strong perception of bitterness overwhelms the natural sweetness in greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy's hunch was that this may lead them to avoid greens. So she decided to test the theory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We recruited young adults and asked them to come into the lab and did taste tests with them,\" Duffy explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They sampled asparagus, Brussels sprouts and kale, and Duffy's team assessed their sensitivities. The young adult volunteers were also tested for the gene, and they filled out questionnaires and kept food diaries to document what they were eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We found that individuals who are least sensitive to these bitter compounds consumed \u003cem>significantly\u003c/em> more vegetables\" compared with those who are most sensitive, Duffy says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, over the course of a year, the difference was about 200 more servings of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy's study was not the first to find this association. Another \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17596267\">study\u003c/a>, conducted in 2007 at the Centre for Cancer Epidemiology and Prevention in Turin, Italy, with about 600 volunteers, pointed to the same link between the bitter gene and the consumption of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy says what surprised her about her \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157576\">findings\u003c/a> is that the people who were sensitive to bitter ate fewer of all kinds of vegetables, not just bitter, cruciferous ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we think [is that] if somebody finds some vegetables too bitter, they sort of generalize to all green vegetables,\" Duffy explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same study also found a connection with papillae, those little dots on your tongue that we've \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127914467\">reported\u003c/a> on in the past. People with more papillae reported eating more vegetables, compared with those with fewer papillae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This suggests that there are multiple factors, both biological and environmental, influencing our food and beverage choices, including — as Duffy is quick to point out — how our parents raise us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People can learn to like vegetables, Duffy says, even if they carry the version of the taste receptor gene that makes them more sensitive to bitter. A big piece of the puzzle is figuring out ways to make them taste good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, \"roasting brings out the sweetness,\" she says. Adding salt is also an effective way to cut the intensity of bitter. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=Masking+Vegetable+Bitterness+to+Improve+Duffy+and+Hayes\">study\u003c/a> she published previously demonstrates that it's possible to mask the bitterness in vegetables with salt and sweeteners to make them more palatable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does an aversion to bitter tend to be lifelong? Not necessarily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duffy points to studies that suggest there are changes over a lifetime. For instance, she says, we know that during pregnancy, many women become more sensitive to bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, in older age, as smell and taste perceptions begin to fade, the taste of bitter foods can seem much less intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/88267/from-kale-to-pale-ale-a-love-of-bitter-may-be-in-your-genes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_88267"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_13818","bayareabites_11930","bayareabites_13855","bayareabites_11318","bayareabites_3972","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_88268","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_86884":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_86884","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"86884","score":null,"sort":[1409349758000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir","title":"Real Vanilla Isn't Plain. It Depends On (Dare We Say It) Terroir","publishDate":1409349758,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-beans.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-beans.jpg\" alt=\"The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: hcabral/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: hcabral/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by April Fulton and Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/29/344262822/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banish the phrase \"plain vanilla\" from your lexicon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? Because vanilla is one of the most complex spices around, boasting at least 250 different flavor and aroma compounds, only one of which is vanillin, the stuff that can be made artificially in a lab (and is used in a lot of processed foods).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as we discovered in a round-the-world tasting tour of single-origin vanilla beans — the real stuff — the plant has evolved distinctions in flavor and, dare we say it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.musingsonthevine.com/tips_ter1.shtml\">terroir\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>at each stage of its turbulent, globetrotting history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You've likely heard of Madagascar Bourbon vanilla. It's the classic, deep, rich \"real\" vanilla the world has come to know and love. It helps that Madagascar is the world's biggest producer of vanilla bean, harvesting 10,000 to 15,000 tons per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what about Tahitian vanilla, with its strong notes of cherry, or spicy, nutmeg-y Mexican vanilla? They're pretty amazing, too, thanks to their own rich soils, curing techniques and vanilla-friendly climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86885\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1776px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-icecream-dafacdf309c1f4902e0e8b3d41165fbfcf8bd98b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-icecream-dafacdf309c1f4902e0e8b3d41165fbfcf8bd98b.jpg\" alt=\"Three scoops of vanilla ice cream made with vanilla beans from Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1776\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86885\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three scoops of vanilla ice cream made with vanilla beans from Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To compare them, we drafted our colleague Marc Silver, who's always up for a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/19/will-soda-lovers-drink-to-less-sugar/\">taste test\u003c/a>, into service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three of us selected beans sold by Nielsen-Massey, an Illinois company that's one of the largest suppliers of pure vanilla in the world, from Tahiti, Mexico and Madagascar, and made three vanilla ice creams with them. We used the same simple \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Vanilla-Bean-Ice-Cream-15285\">recipe\u003c/a> and the same ice cream makers to turn out almost identical-looking snowy mounds speckled with black. And then we set them up side by side for an unscientific tasting at NPR headquarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an experiment like this, you're not likely to get much in the way of criticism. Because who doesn't like vanilla ice cream?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But several tasters preferred the exotic cherry and floral — even \"smoky marshmallow\" — notes in the Tahitian vanilla ice cream. A few sided with the tried-and-true Madagascar, and a couple went for the more subtle, woodsy Mexican variety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsenmassey.com/consumer/bio-craig-nielsen.php\">Craig Nielsen\u003c/a>, CEO of Nielsen-Massey, consumers are learning to appreciate these differences, much like coffee. \"That's why we label our products by source so that people are aware of what area of the world the product is coming from, the different flavor profiles and how they can be used.\" (The Nielsen-Massey website offers \u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsenmassey.com/consumer/recipes.php\">recipes\u003c/a> for inspiration: tropical fruit flan with Tahitian vanilla, and whipped cream with Mexican vanilla, for example.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nielsen says he tends to go for Madagascar, if forced to choose. \"To me, it's a great, all-purpose vanilla,\" he says. \"I use it in anything,\" including tomato sauce, salmon marinades and chili. \"It's a great enhancer of other flavors, and can bring out sweetness without sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla is one of the most labor-intensive crops in the world, but humans find it so intoxicating, we have come to rely on it for everything from ice cream to meat to air fresheners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If cacao was the food of the gods, vanilla was definitely the nectar that accompanied it,\" writes Patricia Rain, a cultural anthropologist, in her book \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books/about/Vanilla.html?id=etIfAQAAIAAJ\">Vanilla: The Cultural History of the World's Favorite Flavor and Fragrance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1798px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-bean-2_slide-26c69252671ced8e84c457703d7af108b983c1a6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-bean-2_slide-26c69252671ced8e84c457703d7af108b983c1a6.jpg\" alt=\"The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: Brent Hofacker/iStockphoto\" width=\"1798\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86886\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: Brent Hofacker/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \"pure, natural\" vanilla spice is really the seeds from dried pods of an orchid whose flowers bloom and die within a day. The vanilla vine originated in the wild jungles of ancient Mexico, growing upward and wrapping itself around stronger plants. It was revered by the Aztecs, but once European explorers had a taste, they realized it had great potential as a commercial spice, and eventually smuggled it to the Bourbon islands around Madagascar for domestication.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it took a wild side trip through the Philippines, where it was crossbred with another subspecies in the early 1800s. From there, it landed in Tahiti, where it was further crossbred and became a different species altogether (\u003cem>Vanilla tahitensis Moore), \u003c/em>according to Rain. It's since moved into production in Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and India, says Nielsen, who also buys from those countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orchids are fussy plants that typically do not self-pollinate. And there are only a couple of pollinators that do a good job, which means wild-pollinated vanilla in Mexico was a hit-or-miss proposition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much human trial and error in cultivation, vanilla plants are now hand-pollinated, to ensure the kinds of quantities the world demands. In Mexico, the plants are watched over by boys with rocks who shoo pesky \u003cem>chachalaca\u003c/em> birds away who would otherwise eat their way through the precious flowers, Rain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's the labor-intensive process of cooking, sweating, drying and curing the bean pods. They must be transformed from looking like oversized green beans into the dark brown, wrinkly, oily and shrunken pods with a powerful fragrance. In Mexico, they cure in adobe ovens, while in Madagascar and Tahiti, they cure in the sun, for a few hours a day, for up to six months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the progression from pollination to processed bean takes about a year and a half, Rain notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to read more about growing vanilla? Check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/goatsandsoda/2014/08/29/343494757/a-peace-corps-stint-in-madagascar-gave-him-a-vision-of-vanilla\">a bean-to-bottle story\u003c/a> from Madagascar on our sister blog, Goats and Soda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"There's no such thing as plain vanilla — at least if you're talking about beans from the vanilla orchid. Whether it's from Tahiti or Madagascar, vanilla can be creamy, spicy or even floral.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1409349758,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":974},"headData":{"title":"Real Vanilla Isn't Plain. It Depends On (Dare We Say It) Terroir | KQED","description":"There's no such thing as plain vanilla — at least if you're talking about beans from the vanilla orchid. Whether it's from Tahiti or Madagascar, vanilla can be creamy, spicy or even floral.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"86884 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=86884","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/08/29/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir/","disqusTitle":"Real Vanilla Isn't Plain. It Depends On (Dare We Say It) Terroir","nprByline":"April Fulton and Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"344262822","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=344262822&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/29/344262822/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir?ft=3&f=344262822","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 29 Aug 2014 16:05:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 29 Aug 2014 15:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 29 Aug 2014 16:05:33 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/86884/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-beans.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-beans.jpg\" alt=\"The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: hcabral/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: hcabral/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by April Fulton and Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/29/344262822/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banish the phrase \"plain vanilla\" from your lexicon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? Because vanilla is one of the most complex spices around, boasting at least 250 different flavor and aroma compounds, only one of which is vanillin, the stuff that can be made artificially in a lab (and is used in a lot of processed foods).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as we discovered in a round-the-world tasting tour of single-origin vanilla beans — the real stuff — the plant has evolved distinctions in flavor and, dare we say it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.musingsonthevine.com/tips_ter1.shtml\">terroir\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>at each stage of its turbulent, globetrotting history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You've likely heard of Madagascar Bourbon vanilla. It's the classic, deep, rich \"real\" vanilla the world has come to know and love. It helps that Madagascar is the world's biggest producer of vanilla bean, harvesting 10,000 to 15,000 tons per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what about Tahitian vanilla, with its strong notes of cherry, or spicy, nutmeg-y Mexican vanilla? They're pretty amazing, too, thanks to their own rich soils, curing techniques and vanilla-friendly climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86885\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1776px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-icecream-dafacdf309c1f4902e0e8b3d41165fbfcf8bd98b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-icecream-dafacdf309c1f4902e0e8b3d41165fbfcf8bd98b.jpg\" alt=\"Three scoops of vanilla ice cream made with vanilla beans from Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1776\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86885\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three scoops of vanilla ice cream made with vanilla beans from Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To compare them, we drafted our colleague Marc Silver, who's always up for a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/19/will-soda-lovers-drink-to-less-sugar/\">taste test\u003c/a>, into service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three of us selected beans sold by Nielsen-Massey, an Illinois company that's one of the largest suppliers of pure vanilla in the world, from Tahiti, Mexico and Madagascar, and made three vanilla ice creams with them. We used the same simple \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Vanilla-Bean-Ice-Cream-15285\">recipe\u003c/a> and the same ice cream makers to turn out almost identical-looking snowy mounds speckled with black. And then we set them up side by side for an unscientific tasting at NPR headquarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an experiment like this, you're not likely to get much in the way of criticism. Because who doesn't like vanilla ice cream?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But several tasters preferred the exotic cherry and floral — even \"smoky marshmallow\" — notes in the Tahitian vanilla ice cream. A few sided with the tried-and-true Madagascar, and a couple went for the more subtle, woodsy Mexican variety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsenmassey.com/consumer/bio-craig-nielsen.php\">Craig Nielsen\u003c/a>, CEO of Nielsen-Massey, consumers are learning to appreciate these differences, much like coffee. \"That's why we label our products by source so that people are aware of what area of the world the product is coming from, the different flavor profiles and how they can be used.\" (The Nielsen-Massey website offers \u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsenmassey.com/consumer/recipes.php\">recipes\u003c/a> for inspiration: tropical fruit flan with Tahitian vanilla, and whipped cream with Mexican vanilla, for example.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nielsen says he tends to go for Madagascar, if forced to choose. \"To me, it's a great, all-purpose vanilla,\" he says. \"I use it in anything,\" including tomato sauce, salmon marinades and chili. \"It's a great enhancer of other flavors, and can bring out sweetness without sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla is one of the most labor-intensive crops in the world, but humans find it so intoxicating, we have come to rely on it for everything from ice cream to meat to air fresheners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If cacao was the food of the gods, vanilla was definitely the nectar that accompanied it,\" writes Patricia Rain, a cultural anthropologist, in her book \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books/about/Vanilla.html?id=etIfAQAAIAAJ\">Vanilla: The Cultural History of the World's Favorite Flavor and Fragrance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1798px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-bean-2_slide-26c69252671ced8e84c457703d7af108b983c1a6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/vanilla-bean-2_slide-26c69252671ced8e84c457703d7af108b983c1a6.jpg\" alt=\"The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: Brent Hofacker/iStockphoto\" width=\"1798\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86886\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vanilla bean, along with cacao, originated in the Americas and is now cultivated in several countries around the world. Here, the seeds inside the pod are shown. Photo: Brent Hofacker/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \"pure, natural\" vanilla spice is really the seeds from dried pods of an orchid whose flowers bloom and die within a day. The vanilla vine originated in the wild jungles of ancient Mexico, growing upward and wrapping itself around stronger plants. It was revered by the Aztecs, but once European explorers had a taste, they realized it had great potential as a commercial spice, and eventually smuggled it to the Bourbon islands around Madagascar for domestication.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it took a wild side trip through the Philippines, where it was crossbred with another subspecies in the early 1800s. From there, it landed in Tahiti, where it was further crossbred and became a different species altogether (\u003cem>Vanilla tahitensis Moore), \u003c/em>according to Rain. It's since moved into production in Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and India, says Nielsen, who also buys from those countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orchids are fussy plants that typically do not self-pollinate. And there are only a couple of pollinators that do a good job, which means wild-pollinated vanilla in Mexico was a hit-or-miss proposition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much human trial and error in cultivation, vanilla plants are now hand-pollinated, to ensure the kinds of quantities the world demands. In Mexico, the plants are watched over by boys with rocks who shoo pesky \u003cem>chachalaca\u003c/em> birds away who would otherwise eat their way through the precious flowers, Rain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's the labor-intensive process of cooking, sweating, drying and curing the bean pods. They must be transformed from looking like oversized green beans into the dark brown, wrinkly, oily and shrunken pods with a powerful fragrance. In Mexico, they cure in adobe ovens, while in Madagascar and Tahiti, they cure in the sun, for a few hours a day, for up to six months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the progression from pollination to processed bean takes about a year and a half, Rain notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to read more about growing vanilla? Check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/goatsandsoda/2014/08/29/343494757/a-peace-corps-stint-in-madagascar-gave-him-a-vision-of-vanilla\">a bean-to-bottle story\u003c/a> from Madagascar on our sister blog, Goats and Soda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/86884/real-vanilla-isnt-plain-it-depends-on-dare-we-say-it-terroir","authors":["byline_bayareabites_86884"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_11930","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_3636","bayareabites_3972","bayareabites_9293","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_12814","bayareabites_13760"],"featImg":"bayareabites_86885","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_67729":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_67729","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"67729","score":null,"sort":[1375818313000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit","title":"The Cotton Candy Grape: A Sweet Spin On Designer Fruit","publishDate":1375818313,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes1-big.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes1-big.jpg\" alt=\"The Cotton Candy grape looks and smells like a regular green grape. But the taste will evoke memories of the circus. Photo: Courtesy of Spencer Grey\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cotton Candy grape looks and smells like a regular green grape. But the taste will evoke memories of the circus. Photo: Courtesy of Spencer Grey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/05/209222126/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/6/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can't we just leave our fruit alone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, apple farmers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/09/144922008/how-to-get-kids-to-eat-apples-make-them-taste-like-grape-candy\">soaking\u003c/a> their fruit in grape flavor to make them more attractive to kids. Now, plant breeders in California have created a grape that tastes like — well, spun sugar and air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's right, Salties. Say hello to the Cotton Candy grape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67739\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes2-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"What exactly is cotton candy flavor anyway? Well, the blue is suppose to be raspberry. The yellow is lemon, and that ubiquitous pink puff ball has vanilla in it. Photo: seelenstum/Flickr.com\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-67739\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What exactly is cotton candy flavor anyway? Well, the blue is suppose to be raspberry. The yellow is lemon, and that ubiquitous pink puff ball has vanilla in it. Photo: seelenstum/Flickr.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"When it pops in your mouth, the first impression is a rush of cotton candy flavor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://spencerhgray.wordpress.com/2011/09/02/cotton-candy-grapes/\">Spencer Gray\u003c/a>, a personal chef in Culver City and blogger at Omnivorous who has sampled the grapes. \"The green grapes don't look or smell like cotton candy,\" he tells The Salt, \"but they will remind you of a circus.\" His son, he says, loves them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about $6 per pound, this sounds like a lucrative gimmick that takes a perfectly pleasant fruit and jazzes it up into junk food. But when we dug deeper into the grape's origins, we found that its creator is actually trying to do the opposite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horticulturalist David Cain wants to bring back the natural flavors of our grapes, which have been stripped away by decades of breeding fruit to withstand shipping and storage — not to please our taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you go to the supermarket, there's like 15 kinds of apples — Fuji, Pink Lady, Gala, Braeburn. The list goes on,\" Cain tells The Salt. \"We want to give consumers the same array of flavors for grapes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he's doing it without genetic engineering or artificial flavors. Just good old-fashioned \u003ca href=\"http://www.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/html_pubs/PLBREED/pl_breed.html\">plant breeding\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cain and his team at International Fruit Genetics in Bakersfield, Calif., made the Cotton Candy grape by hybridizing two different grape species. So the designer fruit is actually a hybrid — like \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=106098949\">pluots\u003c/a>, peacharines and cherums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We already have other varieties that taste like strawberry, pineapple or mango,\" he says. \"We're still testing those out to see if they're commercial viable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cotton Candy grape has already cleared those hurdles — it has been commercially available in limited quantities since 2011. In fact, sales have been so good that the fruit's distributor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grapery.biz/\">The Grapery\u003c/a>, bumped up its production from just two acres to 100 acres this year, with 200 acres planted for 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67740\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes3-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy. Scientists have to remove the baby embryos from the plant and grow them in a test tube before later planting them in a field. Photo: Courtesy of David Cain/International Fruit Genetics\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-67740\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy. Scientists have to remove the baby embryos from the plant and grow them in a test tube before later planting them in a field. Photo: Courtesy of David Cain/International Fruit Genetics\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weighing in at about 18 grams of sugar per 100 grams of grapes, the designer fruit isn't cloyingly sweet. It has about 12 percent more sugar than regular table grapes but far less than raisins, which have more than three times the carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So just how do these green grapes conjure up the sensation of spun-sugar melting on your tongue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fruit has very little tartness, chef Spencer tells the Salt. \"It's like there's nothing to stop the sweetness. It just lingers on your tongue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also hints off vanilla, Spencer says — and vanilla, it seems, is a key flavor in the archetypal \"pink\" cotton candy that makes your dentist cringe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get that vanilla flavor into the table grapes naturally, Cain and his team had to widen the plants' gene pool, mixing in genes from less common grape species.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost all of the table grapes in America belong to the species \u003cem>Vitis vinifera\u003c/em>. There's nothing wrong with that. \u003cem>V. vinifera \u003c/em>is a noble grape. It's used to make all of our wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the world has dozens of grape species, and restricting the fruit in grocery stores to just one species also limits their flavors, Cain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the Concord grape. It's used to make Welch's juices, jams and jellies. The dark-purple berry is packed with exotic flavors and aromas, including one known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-2621.1977.tb01217.x/abstract\">foxy\u003c/a>.\" But the Concord grape has seeds and its skin tends to fall off — not great qualities for a table grape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Cain decided to put all the flavors of a Concord-like grape into the firm, crisp and seedless \u003cem>Vitis vineferia\u003c/em> by crossing the two species. (He couldn't say exactly which Concord-like grape he used because it's a trade secret).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy, because they can't reproduce on their own. After fertilizing the plant, Cain and his team have to take out the baby embryos from the plant, then grow them in individual test tubes in the lab before they ever make it to the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cain painstakingly created around 100,000 of these test tube plants before he stumbled upon the cotton-candy flavored grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole process takes at least six years and sometimes up to 15 years,\" Cain says. But he thinks it's worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of fruit becomes tasteless by the time somebody buys it,\" Cain says. \"We want to change that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">2013 NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Grapes that taste like cotton candy? No, it's not a GMO experiment but rather the result of good old-fashioned plant breeding techniques. One scientist has already brought these sweet treats to the market and hopes our grape choices will one day be as varied as our apple choices.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1375818313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":900},"headData":{"title":"The Cotton Candy Grape: A Sweet Spin On Designer Fruit | KQED","description":"Grapes that taste like cotton candy? No, it's not a GMO experiment but rather the result of good old-fashioned plant breeding techniques. One scientist has already brought these sweet treats to the market and hopes our grape choices will one day be as varied as our apple choices.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"67729 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=67729","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/06/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit/","disqusTitle":"The Cotton Candy Grape: A Sweet Spin On Designer Fruit","nprByline":"Michaeleen Doucleff","nprStoryId":"209222126","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=209222126&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/05/209222126/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit?ft=3&f=209222126","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:21:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 06 Aug 2013 11:46:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:21:31 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/67729/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes1-big.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes1-big.jpg\" alt=\"The Cotton Candy grape looks and smells like a regular green grape. But the taste will evoke memories of the circus. Photo: Courtesy of Spencer Grey\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cotton Candy grape looks and smells like a regular green grape. But the taste will evoke memories of the circus. Photo: Courtesy of Spencer Grey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/05/209222126/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/6/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can't we just leave our fruit alone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, apple farmers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/09/144922008/how-to-get-kids-to-eat-apples-make-them-taste-like-grape-candy\">soaking\u003c/a> their fruit in grape flavor to make them more attractive to kids. Now, plant breeders in California have created a grape that tastes like — well, spun sugar and air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's right, Salties. Say hello to the Cotton Candy grape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67739\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes2-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"What exactly is cotton candy flavor anyway? Well, the blue is suppose to be raspberry. The yellow is lemon, and that ubiquitous pink puff ball has vanilla in it. Photo: seelenstum/Flickr.com\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-67739\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What exactly is cotton candy flavor anyway? Well, the blue is suppose to be raspberry. The yellow is lemon, and that ubiquitous pink puff ball has vanilla in it. Photo: seelenstum/Flickr.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"When it pops in your mouth, the first impression is a rush of cotton candy flavor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://spencerhgray.wordpress.com/2011/09/02/cotton-candy-grapes/\">Spencer Gray\u003c/a>, a personal chef in Culver City and blogger at Omnivorous who has sampled the grapes. \"The green grapes don't look or smell like cotton candy,\" he tells The Salt, \"but they will remind you of a circus.\" His son, he says, loves them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about $6 per pound, this sounds like a lucrative gimmick that takes a perfectly pleasant fruit and jazzes it up into junk food. But when we dug deeper into the grape's origins, we found that its creator is actually trying to do the opposite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horticulturalist David Cain wants to bring back the natural flavors of our grapes, which have been stripped away by decades of breeding fruit to withstand shipping and storage — not to please our taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you go to the supermarket, there's like 15 kinds of apples — Fuji, Pink Lady, Gala, Braeburn. The list goes on,\" Cain tells The Salt. \"We want to give consumers the same array of flavors for grapes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he's doing it without genetic engineering or artificial flavors. Just good old-fashioned \u003ca href=\"http://www.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/html_pubs/PLBREED/pl_breed.html\">plant breeding\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cain and his team at International Fruit Genetics in Bakersfield, Calif., made the Cotton Candy grape by hybridizing two different grape species. So the designer fruit is actually a hybrid — like \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=106098949\">pluots\u003c/a>, peacharines and cherums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We already have other varieties that taste like strawberry, pineapple or mango,\" he says. \"We're still testing those out to see if they're commercial viable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cotton Candy grape has already cleared those hurdles — it has been commercially available in limited quantities since 2011. In fact, sales have been so good that the fruit's distributor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grapery.biz/\">The Grapery\u003c/a>, bumped up its production from just two acres to 100 acres this year, with 200 acres planted for 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67740\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/grapes3-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy. Scientists have to remove the baby embryos from the plant and grow them in a test tube before later planting them in a field. Photo: Courtesy of David Cain/International Fruit Genetics\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-67740\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy. Scientists have to remove the baby embryos from the plant and grow them in a test tube before later planting them in a field. Photo: Courtesy of David Cain/International Fruit Genetics\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weighing in at about 18 grams of sugar per 100 grams of grapes, the designer fruit isn't cloyingly sweet. It has about 12 percent more sugar than regular table grapes but far less than raisins, which have more than three times the carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So just how do these green grapes conjure up the sensation of spun-sugar melting on your tongue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fruit has very little tartness, chef Spencer tells the Salt. \"It's like there's nothing to stop the sweetness. It just lingers on your tongue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also hints off vanilla, Spencer says — and vanilla, it seems, is a key flavor in the archetypal \"pink\" cotton candy that makes your dentist cringe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get that vanilla flavor into the table grapes naturally, Cain and his team had to widen the plants' gene pool, mixing in genes from less common grape species.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost all of the table grapes in America belong to the species \u003cem>Vitis vinifera\u003c/em>. There's nothing wrong with that. \u003cem>V. vinifera \u003c/em>is a noble grape. It's used to make all of our wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the world has dozens of grape species, and restricting the fruit in grocery stores to just one species also limits their flavors, Cain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the Concord grape. It's used to make Welch's juices, jams and jellies. The dark-purple berry is packed with exotic flavors and aromas, including one known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-2621.1977.tb01217.x/abstract\">foxy\u003c/a>.\" But the Concord grape has seeds and its skin tends to fall off — not great qualities for a table grape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Cain decided to put all the flavors of a Concord-like grape into the firm, crisp and seedless \u003cem>Vitis vineferia\u003c/em> by crossing the two species. (He couldn't say exactly which Concord-like grape he used because it's a trade secret).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeding seedless grapes isn't easy, because they can't reproduce on their own. After fertilizing the plant, Cain and his team have to take out the baby embryos from the plant, then grow them in individual test tubes in the lab before they ever make it to the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cain painstakingly created around 100,000 of these test tube plants before he stumbled upon the cotton-candy flavored grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole process takes at least six years and sometimes up to 15 years,\" Cain says. But he thinks it's worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of fruit becomes tasteless by the time somebody buys it,\" Cain says. \"We want to change that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">2013 NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/67729/the-cotton-candy-grape-a-sweet-spin-on-designer-fruit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_67729"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_12176","bayareabites_11930","bayareabites_2758","bayareabites_12175"],"featImg":"bayareabites_67737","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_64455":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64455","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64455","score":null,"sort":[1372832520000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"your-choice-in-utensils-can-change-how-food-tastes","title":"Your Choice In Utensils Can Change How Food Tastes","publishDate":1372832520,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/spoonfuls.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/spoonfuls.jpg\" alt=\"Which spoonful of yogurt looks the tastiest? Studies show people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp color-contrast to their food. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\" width=\"1120\" height=\"742\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64471\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Which spoonful of yogurt looks the tastiest? Studies show people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp color-contrast to their food. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/30/196708393/from-farm-to-fork-to-plate-how-utensils-season-your-meal\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/06/20130630_wesun_09.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/30/196708393/from-farm-to-fork-to-plate-how-utensils-season-your-meal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being \"born with a silver spoon in your mouth\" has long been known to have advantages. Apparently, eating off a silver spoon also has its perks — it seems to make your food taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the word from a group of researchers who've been studying how cutlery, dishes and other inedible accoutrements to a meal can alter our perceptions of taste. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavourjournal.com/content/pdf/2044-7248-2-21.pdf%20\">latest work\u003c/a>, published in the journal \u003cem>Flavour,\u003c/em> looks at how spoons, knives and other utensils we put in our mouths can provide their own kind of \"mental seasoning\" for a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of my wine-drinking colleagues would have me believe that flavor is really out there on the bottle, in the glass or on the plate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://psyweb.psy.ox.ac.uk/xmodal/members.htm\">Charles Spence\u003c/a>, a professor of experimental psychology at Oxford University. \"But I think it is much more something that we ... understand better through looking at what's happening inside the brain, and not just the mouth of the person eating or drinking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alterations in taste perceptions aren't necessarily the result of the cutlery itself, he says, but of the mental associations we bring to a meal. \"Silver spoons and other silver cutlery, I'm guessing, are more commonly associated with high-quality food in our prior eating experiences,\" Spence says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, psychologists have found that the color and shape of plates and other dishes can have an impact on the eating experience. Studies have found, for example, that people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp \u003ca href=\"http://foodpsychology.cornell.edu/outreach/color_plate.html\">color-contrast to their food\u003c/a>, that the \u003ca href=\"http://theweek.com/article/index/238434/how-your-cups-color-changes-the-taste-of-your-drink\">color of a mug\u003c/a> can alter a drinker's perception of how sweet and aromatic hot cocoa is, and that drinks can \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/col.21757/abstract\">seem more thirst-quenching\u003c/a> when consumed from a glass with a \"cold\" color like blue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why study cutlery? For starters, there wasn't any real scientific literature on the topic, Spence tells Linda Wertheimer on \u003cem>Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64470\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/utensils.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/utensils.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese might take on a whole new flavor when you use a plastic utensil. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour \" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64470\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese might take on a whole new flavor when you use a plastic utensil. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or, as he put it to The Salt, cutlery is \"one of the few things we stick in our mouth that others have stuck in their mouths. So it's a peculiar thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Among Spence's findings so far:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>People will rate the very same yogurt 15 percent tastier and more expensive when sampled with a silver spoon rather than a plastic spoon or a lighter (by weight) option.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combining a heavier bowl with a heavier spoon will tend to make yogurt taste better.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plastic packaging or plate ware that's more rounded will tend to emphasize sweetness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Angular plates tend to bring out the bitterness in food, which works well for dishes like dark chocolate or coffee-based desserts, Spence says.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>People will rate cheeses as tasting saltier when eaten off a knife, compared to a toothpick, spoon or fork.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In general, foods tend to be perceived as more enjoyable when eaten off heavier plates and with heavier cutlery – perhaps because heft is equated with expense.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Such research isn't merely academic, Spence says. Food companies use these kinds of studies to inform how they package their products. And in a world where modernist chefs already pay lots of attention to how foods are arranged visually on the plate, cutlery, he suggests, presents a new frontier for fine dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spence has already teamed up with some of the world's top modernist chefs, using their restaurants as real-world settings to test findings from the lab. Working with Ferran Adria, the culinary superstar behind Barcelona's now-shuttered elBulli, Spence tells us, he learned that strawberry mousse tastes \"10 percent sweeter and 15 percent more flavorful on a white plate than on a black plate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64473\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/soundofsea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/soundofsea.jpg\" alt='Take a bite of the \"Sound of the Sea\" dish and listen while you chomp. Photo: adactio / Flickr' width=\"1120\" height=\"735\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64473\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Take a bite of the \"Sound of the Sea\" dish and listen while you chomp. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/7164148397/\">adactio / Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And this summer, Spence says, he'll explore how ridged spoons impact the dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefatduck.co.uk/\">The Fat Duck\u003c/a>, the restaurant run by British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal. A previous collaboration between the two resulted in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-448840/Seafood-served-ipod-Heston-Blumenthals-latest-recipe.html\">The Sound of the Sea\u003c/a>, in which diners eat oysters and other seafood while listening to an iPod playing the sounds of crashing waves. It's become a signature dish on Fat Duck's tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maybe in a year or two,\" Spence tells The Salt, \"we will have signature cutlery associated with this chef or that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cutlery, dishes and other inedible accoutrements to a meal can alter our perceptions of taste, according to researchers. And it might be more about our brains than our tongues.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1372832520,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":810},"headData":{"title":"Your Choice In Utensils Can Change How Food Tastes | KQED","description":"Cutlery, dishes and other inedible accoutrements to a meal can alter our perceptions of taste, according to researchers. And it might be more about our brains than our tongues.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"64455 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64455","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/02/your-choice-in-utensils-can-change-how-food-tastes/","disqusTitle":"Your Choice In Utensils Can Change How Food Tastes","nprByline":"Maria Godoy","nprStoryId":"196708393","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=196708393&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/30/196708393/from-farm-to-fork-to-plate-how-utensils-season-your-meal?ft=3&f=196708393","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 02 Jul 2013 13:53:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 30 Jun 2013 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 02 Jul 2013 13:53:22 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/06/20130630_wesun_09.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=196708393","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1197229792-a8931b.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=196708393","path":"/bayareabites/64455/your-choice-in-utensils-can-change-how-food-tastes","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/06/20130630_wesun_09.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=196708393","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/spoonfuls.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/spoonfuls.jpg\" alt=\"Which spoonful of yogurt looks the tastiest? Studies show people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp color-contrast to their food. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\" width=\"1120\" height=\"742\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64471\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Which spoonful of yogurt looks the tastiest? Studies show people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp color-contrast to their food. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/30/196708393/from-farm-to-fork-to-plate-how-utensils-season-your-meal\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/06/20130630_wesun_09.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/30/196708393/from-farm-to-fork-to-plate-how-utensils-season-your-meal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being \"born with a silver spoon in your mouth\" has long been known to have advantages. Apparently, eating off a silver spoon also has its perks — it seems to make your food taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the word from a group of researchers who've been studying how cutlery, dishes and other inedible accoutrements to a meal can alter our perceptions of taste. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavourjournal.com/content/pdf/2044-7248-2-21.pdf%20\">latest work\u003c/a>, published in the journal \u003cem>Flavour,\u003c/em> looks at how spoons, knives and other utensils we put in our mouths can provide their own kind of \"mental seasoning\" for a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of my wine-drinking colleagues would have me believe that flavor is really out there on the bottle, in the glass or on the plate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://psyweb.psy.ox.ac.uk/xmodal/members.htm\">Charles Spence\u003c/a>, a professor of experimental psychology at Oxford University. \"But I think it is much more something that we ... understand better through looking at what's happening inside the brain, and not just the mouth of the person eating or drinking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alterations in taste perceptions aren't necessarily the result of the cutlery itself, he says, but of the mental associations we bring to a meal. \"Silver spoons and other silver cutlery, I'm guessing, are more commonly associated with high-quality food in our prior eating experiences,\" Spence says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, psychologists have found that the color and shape of plates and other dishes can have an impact on the eating experience. Studies have found, for example, that people tend to eat less when their dishes are in sharp \u003ca href=\"http://foodpsychology.cornell.edu/outreach/color_plate.html\">color-contrast to their food\u003c/a>, that the \u003ca href=\"http://theweek.com/article/index/238434/how-your-cups-color-changes-the-taste-of-your-drink\">color of a mug\u003c/a> can alter a drinker's perception of how sweet and aromatic hot cocoa is, and that drinks can \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/col.21757/abstract\">seem more thirst-quenching\u003c/a> when consumed from a glass with a \"cold\" color like blue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why study cutlery? For starters, there wasn't any real scientific literature on the topic, Spence tells Linda Wertheimer on \u003cem>Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64470\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/utensils.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/utensils.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese might take on a whole new flavor when you use a plastic utensil. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour \" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64470\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese might take on a whole new flavor when you use a plastic utensil. Photo: Elizabeth Willing/Courtesy Flavour\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or, as he put it to The Salt, cutlery is \"one of the few things we stick in our mouth that others have stuck in their mouths. So it's a peculiar thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Among Spence's findings so far:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>People will rate the very same yogurt 15 percent tastier and more expensive when sampled with a silver spoon rather than a plastic spoon or a lighter (by weight) option.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combining a heavier bowl with a heavier spoon will tend to make yogurt taste better.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plastic packaging or plate ware that's more rounded will tend to emphasize sweetness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Angular plates tend to bring out the bitterness in food, which works well for dishes like dark chocolate or coffee-based desserts, Spence says.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>People will rate cheeses as tasting saltier when eaten off a knife, compared to a toothpick, spoon or fork.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In general, foods tend to be perceived as more enjoyable when eaten off heavier plates and with heavier cutlery – perhaps because heft is equated with expense.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Such research isn't merely academic, Spence says. Food companies use these kinds of studies to inform how they package their products. And in a world where modernist chefs already pay lots of attention to how foods are arranged visually on the plate, cutlery, he suggests, presents a new frontier for fine dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spence has already teamed up with some of the world's top modernist chefs, using their restaurants as real-world settings to test findings from the lab. Working with Ferran Adria, the culinary superstar behind Barcelona's now-shuttered elBulli, Spence tells us, he learned that strawberry mousse tastes \"10 percent sweeter and 15 percent more flavorful on a white plate than on a black plate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64473\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/soundofsea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/soundofsea.jpg\" alt='Take a bite of the \"Sound of the Sea\" dish and listen while you chomp. Photo: adactio / Flickr' width=\"1120\" height=\"735\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64473\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Take a bite of the \"Sound of the Sea\" dish and listen while you chomp. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/adactio/7164148397/\">adactio / Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And this summer, Spence says, he'll explore how ridged spoons impact the dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefatduck.co.uk/\">The Fat Duck\u003c/a>, the restaurant run by British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal. A previous collaboration between the two resulted in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-448840/Seafood-served-ipod-Heston-Blumenthals-latest-recipe.html\">The Sound of the Sea\u003c/a>, in which diners eat oysters and other seafood while listening to an iPod playing the sounds of crashing waves. It's become a signature dish on Fat Duck's tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maybe in a year or two,\" Spence tells The Salt, \"we will have signature cutlery associated with this chef or that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64455/your-choice-in-utensils-can-change-how-food-tastes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_64455"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_11928","bayareabites_11930","bayareabites_11927","bayareabites_11929","bayareabites_3972","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_10140"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64471","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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