The result was a vibrant, powerful work of art that showcases the joys, pains, and essential humanity at play in the Tenderloin. The same compressed intensity you can feel after walking for a few blocks in the neighborhood was handily replicated on stage. Characters included caregivers and service workers, immigrants and ex-convicts, artists and the down-and-out. There were small-time hustlers, cops, war veterans, gentrifiers, grade-schoolers, and a transgendered barkeep. It all wended together to create a complexly textured portrait of a neighborhood that defies easy categorization.

Killing time between the 2pm matinee and the 5pm food crawl, you could witness that same density of human drama right on the streets. I saw a high-speed police chase, replete with dozens of people stepping out in the street to gawk in its aftermath. I saw a raucous game of streetside dominoes. I met a woman, a self-proclaimed street-corner mayor, who complimented my girlfriend’s style and gave me a hot tip on where I should lock up my bike. I couldn’t keep all the interesting characters in my head because each one was replaced by the next colorful persona.

The food crawl itself took us to some of the more upscale eateries in the Tenderloin, places that are newer on the scene. Managing Director Suzanne Appel, who guides the tour, said this was largely a result of the newer places having a more sophisticated marketing structure, as well as more space to accommodate large groups. She attempted to involve more old-school, low-end Tenderloin restaurants like New Delhi, to no avail.

“The goal of the Tenderloin Trail is to give our patrons a broader perspective on what the Tenderloin has to offer,” said Appel. “We believe that the arts are a critical piece of the revitalization of the Tenderloin, but we need small local businesses, such as these restaurants, to make this a neighborhood where our patrons can have a great night out.”

Though some might say these restaurants don’t have the authenticity of Turtle Tower or Saigon Sandwich (both name-checked in the play), they are all chosen with care and well worth visiting. Highlights included the legendary fried chicken at farmerbrown, a newly invented drink called Tenderloin Tommy (ingredients included tarragon gin, egg white, homemade grenadine, grapefruit juice, and allspice) at Fish & Farm, and a beer and charcuterie sampler at 50 Mason Social House. I went on the inaugural Tenderloin Trail crawl and there were some logistical issues -- restaurants weren’t totally prepared for our visits and the food selection was spotty -- but Appel says these wrinkles should be ironed out by next weekend.

I also enjoyed the communal aspect of tromping around the Tenderloin with a crew of art-loving strangers, discussing the play and how it jibes with our own perceptions of the neighborhood. Of course, some participants were seeing the play after the food crawl, so I had to be mindful of giving away spoilers.

Tenderloin will run in conjunction with the Tenderloin Trail food crawl for the next three Saturdays. You can either see the 2pm matinee or the 8pm show, with the crawl running for about two and a half hours starting at 5pm. Tickets are $75 ($32.50 for just the play) and proceeds go to benefit Cutting Ball Theater’s ongoing programs. The tentative menu for each crawl is as follows:

May 12
farmerbrown - fried chicken, pork sliders, jalapeno cornbread muffins, and a Tenderloin Shandy cocktail

Jasper's Corner Tap - a cocktail and appetizer TBD

50 Mason Social House - a flight of three local San Francisco beers, and local cheese and charcuterie plate

May 19
Fish & Farm - Tenderloin Tommy cocktail and oysters

farmerbrown - Fried chicken, pork sliders, jalapeno cornbread muffins, and a Tenderloin Shandy cocktail

50 Mason Social House - a flight of three local San Francisco beers, and local cheese and charcuterie plate

May 26
farmerbrown - fried chicken, pork sliders, jalapeno cornbread muffins, and a Tenderloin Shandy cocktail

Jasper's Corner Tap - a cocktail and appetizer TBD

50 Mason Social House - a flight of three local San Francisco beers, and local cheese and charcuterie plate

To learn more, or to purchase tickets, please visit the Cutting Ball website.

Listen to KQED's Forum: Voices of the Tenderloin
Fri, May 11, 2012 -- 10:00 AM
Conversation with Annie Elias, director of Tenderloin and members of the cast.

Disclosure: My girlfriend is a former colleague of Suzanne Appel and I had met her a couple of times socially prior to the restaurant crawl.

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