The Truth About Ugly Foods: They're Delicious, Abundant And Good For The Planet
The Environmental Cost Of Growing Food
How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves
To Go Green, Bars Try To Reuse Their Booze
Masumoto Farm: The Family Peach Farm That Became A Symbol Of The Food Revolution
Apps Aim To Guide You On 'Sustainable Food' (Whatever That Means)
Hog Island Oyster Farm Fights Climate Change as Demand Soars
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As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_134124":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134124","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134124","score":null,"sort":[1562776531000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth","title":"Your Hummus Habit Could Be Good For The Earth","publishDate":1562776531,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_55726,bayareabites_96014,bayareabites_131839' label='More on Chickpeas']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hummus is having a heyday with American consumers, and that could be as good for the soil as it is for our health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Formerly relegated to the snack aisle in U.S. grocery stores, the chickpea-based dip has long starred as the smooth centerpiece of Middle Eastern meals and, increasingly, plant-based diets. Occasionally, it even doubles as\u003ca href=\"https://delightedbyhummus.com/\"> dessert\u003c/a>. Last year, Americans spent four times as much money on grocery store hummus as they did a decade before, according to the latest consumer surveys, and a growing number of snacks and fast-casual concepts also feature the fiber- and protein-rich chickpea as their \u003cem>pièce de résistance.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of a subcategory of legumes called pulses, chickpeas — along with lentils, dry peas and several varieties of beans — have been a critical crop and foodstuff for centuries in Middle Eastern and Asian countries. The crops are so promising that the United Nations deemed 2016 the \u003ca href=\"https://www.crops.org/iyp\">Year of Pulses\u003c/a> to expand interest in these ancient foods and their potential to help solve dueling modern-day conundrums: hunger and soil depreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some American farmers were already well on their way to embracing pulses, seeing the role they could play in improving soil health and setting the stage for better harvests of cash crops like wheat. Last year, U.S. farmers planted more chickpeas than ever to satisfy growing demand for plant-based protein alternatives — which, in turn, could help restore soils depleted by decades of intensive farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike corn or wheat, these pulses fix their own nitrogen from the atmosphere, leaving extra stores of the nutrient in the soil for future crops to consume. For this reason, pulses can play a vital role in crop rotations, especially those that don't rely on chemical fertilizers. What's more, if managed well, these crops can be part of a farming system that sequesters carbon from the atmosphere and helps mitigate climate change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see this diversification and these legumes as a way to get away from the use of synthetic nitrogen,\" says Casey Bailey, a farmer in Fort Benton, Mont., who grows organic chickpeas as the linchpin of a rotational planting program. \"They're a tricky crop to grow, but I'm a huge proponent of trying to figure out how to do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1412px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e.jpg\" alt=\"Chickpeas are often called by their Spanish name, garbanzos or garbanzo beans, in the United States.\" width=\"1412\" height=\"1059\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e.jpg 1412w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1412px) 100vw, 1412px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chickpeas are often called by their Spanish name, garbanzos or garbanzo beans, in the United States. \u003ccite>(Inga Spence/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He sells about 2,000 pounds of chickpeas each month to\u003ca href=\"http://eatlittlesesame.com/menu/\"> Little Sesame\u003c/a>, a fast-casual concept serving hummus bowls topped with seasonal vegetables at a pair of locations in the District of Columbia. Chef-owners Nick Wiseman and Israeli-born Ronen Tenne soak the dried chickpeas for hours before cooking and blending them (with tahini, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice) into daily batches to satiate the city's lunch and after-work crowds — often without adding meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't say it much, but 80% of the menu is always vegan,\" Wiseman says. \"It's awesome to see people who would probably eat meat every day come in here and be satisfied without it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Wiseman, the cherry on top of opening a second location this year is getting to buy more kabuli chickpeas from Bailey, whom he'll visit this summer during a road trip in\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ByC8GC-Br7U/\"> Little Sesame's 1978 Volkswagen van\u003c/a>. Creating markets for such legumes — particularly those grown without chemicals such as desiccants used to dry chickpeas in the fields — is a growing interest for Wiseman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These (chickpeas) are helping restore the grasslands of the West, which are this huge carbon sink,\" Wiseman says over a bowl of hummus topped with snap peas and Aleppo chili oil at his Chinatown location. \"They're a very powerful plant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bailey planted his first few hundred acres of chickpeas a dozen years ago, after a retailer looking to sell more of the healthful legumes reached out to him on LinkedIn, making him a pioneer in Montana's grain-heavy Golden Triangle region. But word was spreading that the chickpea could pull in more money per pound than other legumes, while reducing the need for chemical inputs compared with crops like wheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Tim McGreevy started working in 1994 as the CEO of the\u003ca href=\"https://www.usapulses.org/\"> USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council and the American Pulse Association\u003c/a> — a trade group that trumpets the power of chickpeas, lentils, dry peas and beans — the country was harvesting about 30,000 acres of chickpeas annually, primarily in the hilly Palouse agricultural region of Washington, Idaho and Oregon. By last year, that number had swelled to 859,000 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's a pretty big difference in 25 years,\" says McGreevy, who also grows chickpeas on a small farm in Eastern Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year in particular, Bailey says, \"it seemed like the entire state of Montana was chickpeas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While about half of the country's chickpea harvest is still shipped overseas, a growing number of chickpeas are going to domestic markets as demand increases. Trade disputes also are making international markets less reliable. In 2019, U.S. farmers reduced for the first time in years the number of acres they planned to plant in chickpeas, down to 519,000 acres. Volatile trade riffs with countries such as India in 2018 left much of that year's harvest\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2018/12/31/678416352/chickpeas-sit-in-silos-as-trumps-trade-wars-wage-on\"> sitting in silos\u003c/a>, where an oversupply has continued to depress chickpea prices this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The saving grace — and why I'm still optimistic — is the domestic market continues to grow for all pulse crops,\" McGreevy says. He thinks the lower price could also spur even more innovation of chickpea-based foods. \"Chickpeas have, in particular, shown significant growth in sales over the past decade.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-134129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Americans spent nearly $800 million on hummus from retail stores in 2018.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-1200x799.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cbr>\nAmericans spent nearly $800 million on hummus from retail stores in 2018, McGreevy says. That's compared to just under $200 million in hummus sales a decade before and only $5 million in the mid-1990s, placing the popular dip among food retail's fastest-growing sectors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sabra.com/\">Sabra\u003c/a>, an Israeli company that's been partnered with PepsiCo since 2008, has led hummus' parade into U.S. markets over the past decade and is still one of the sector's largest players. A Sabra production plant in Chesterfield County, Va., where the company also has encouraged more farmers to grow chickpeas, was\u003ca href=\"https://www.richmond.com/business/sabra-dipping-co-opens-new-plant-expansion/article_7d6d6ea8-34d9-579b-8695-ade53328cfc5.html\"> expanded in 2014\u003c/a> to produce more than 8,000 tons of hummus a month in anticipation of market growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chickpea invasion has gone beyond the dip aisle, too, with crunchy roasted versions from companies like\u003ca href=\"http://hippeas.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_K9pqlJyXt_pIqdVv2rXLeYa26KQIculY4x0jo-ReOwPC4qC3ASamMaAugcEALw_wcB\"> Hippeas\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"http://www.thegoodbean.com/\"> The Good Bean\u003c/a> competing with potato chips as a healthful alternative. The U.S. Dietary Guidelines suggest Americans \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/appendix-3/\">eat 1 ½ cups of cooked pulses per week\u003c/a>, McGreevy notes. High in protein, dietary fiber and essential amino acids, pulses can play an even larger role in diets focused on reducing meat consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hummus already looms large on American snack tables, replacing ranch dressing as a healthier, cut-vegetable accompaniment. And, now, it's staging a takeover of the main meal, too. Hummus-based bowls are the centerpiece of chains like New York City's The Hummus & Pita Co., and a staple ingredient at\u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/mediterranean-middle-eastern-food-gaining-popularity-2018-6\"> the ballooning number of fast-casual Mediterranean concepts\u003c/a> such as Cava and Roti. Chickpeas\u003ca href=\"https://www.amny.com/eat-and-drink/chickpea-food-trend-1.33295907\"> are cropping up on menus\u003c/a> in Asian noodle dishes, French fries, soft-serve \"ice cream\" and \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/delighted-by-dessert-hummus\">dessert-like frostings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But perhaps the easiest way to wade into the chickpea fray is to find a really good bowl of hummus — which doubles as the Arabic word for chickpea — and shovel it in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Whitney Pipkin is a freelance journalist living just outside Washington. You can find more of her work \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.whitneypipkin.com/\">here\u003c/a>.\u003cem> Follow her on Twitter at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Whitneypipkin\">@WhitneyPipkin\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/10/739054484/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"High in fiber and protein, chickpeas are playing a starring role on menus. They're also good for soil health — and growing demand could help restore soils depleted by decades of intensive farming.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1562776531,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1315},"headData":{"title":"Your Hummus Habit Could Be Good For The Earth | KQED","description":"High in fiber and protein, chickpeas are playing a starring role on menus. They're also good for soil health — and growing demand could help restore soils depleted by decades of intensive farming.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Your Hummus Habit Could Be Good For The Earth","datePublished":"2019-07-10T16:35:31.000Z","dateModified":"2019-07-10T16:35:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134124 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134124","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/07/10/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth/","disqusTitle":"Your Hummus Habit Could Be Good For The Earth","nprByline":"Whitney Pipkin","nprImageAgency":"Anna Meyer","nprStoryId":"739054484","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=739054484&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/10/739054484/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth?ft=nprml&f=739054484","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2019 10:33:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2019 07:00:30 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2019 10:33:42 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/134124/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_55726,bayareabites_96014,bayareabites_131839","label":"More on Chickpeas "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hummus is having a heyday with American consumers, and that could be as good for the soil as it is for our health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Formerly relegated to the snack aisle in U.S. grocery stores, the chickpea-based dip has long starred as the smooth centerpiece of Middle Eastern meals and, increasingly, plant-based diets. Occasionally, it even doubles as\u003ca href=\"https://delightedbyhummus.com/\"> dessert\u003c/a>. Last year, Americans spent four times as much money on grocery store hummus as they did a decade before, according to the latest consumer surveys, and a growing number of snacks and fast-casual concepts also feature the fiber- and protein-rich chickpea as their \u003cem>pièce de résistance.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of a subcategory of legumes called pulses, chickpeas — along with lentils, dry peas and several varieties of beans — have been a critical crop and foodstuff for centuries in Middle Eastern and Asian countries. The crops are so promising that the United Nations deemed 2016 the \u003ca href=\"https://www.crops.org/iyp\">Year of Pulses\u003c/a> to expand interest in these ancient foods and their potential to help solve dueling modern-day conundrums: hunger and soil depreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some American farmers were already well on their way to embracing pulses, seeing the role they could play in improving soil health and setting the stage for better harvests of cash crops like wheat. Last year, U.S. farmers planted more chickpeas than ever to satisfy growing demand for plant-based protein alternatives — which, in turn, could help restore soils depleted by decades of intensive farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike corn or wheat, these pulses fix their own nitrogen from the atmosphere, leaving extra stores of the nutrient in the soil for future crops to consume. For this reason, pulses can play a vital role in crop rotations, especially those that don't rely on chemical fertilizers. What's more, if managed well, these crops can be part of a farming system that sequesters carbon from the atmosphere and helps mitigate climate change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see this diversification and these legumes as a way to get away from the use of synthetic nitrogen,\" says Casey Bailey, a farmer in Fort Benton, Mont., who grows organic chickpeas as the linchpin of a rotational planting program. \"They're a tricky crop to grow, but I'm a huge proponent of trying to figure out how to do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1412px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e.jpg\" alt=\"Chickpeas are often called by their Spanish name, garbanzos or garbanzo beans, in the United States.\" width=\"1412\" height=\"1059\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e.jpg 1412w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/gettyimages-128069826-bbd47af959f13a4937053aa5540bc3ea6de0159e-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1412px) 100vw, 1412px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chickpeas are often called by their Spanish name, garbanzos or garbanzo beans, in the United States. \u003ccite>(Inga Spence/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He sells about 2,000 pounds of chickpeas each month to\u003ca href=\"http://eatlittlesesame.com/menu/\"> Little Sesame\u003c/a>, a fast-casual concept serving hummus bowls topped with seasonal vegetables at a pair of locations in the District of Columbia. Chef-owners Nick Wiseman and Israeli-born Ronen Tenne soak the dried chickpeas for hours before cooking and blending them (with tahini, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice) into daily batches to satiate the city's lunch and after-work crowds — often without adding meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't say it much, but 80% of the menu is always vegan,\" Wiseman says. \"It's awesome to see people who would probably eat meat every day come in here and be satisfied without it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Wiseman, the cherry on top of opening a second location this year is getting to buy more kabuli chickpeas from Bailey, whom he'll visit this summer during a road trip in\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ByC8GC-Br7U/\"> Little Sesame's 1978 Volkswagen van\u003c/a>. Creating markets for such legumes — particularly those grown without chemicals such as desiccants used to dry chickpeas in the fields — is a growing interest for Wiseman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These (chickpeas) are helping restore the grasslands of the West, which are this huge carbon sink,\" Wiseman says over a bowl of hummus topped with snap peas and Aleppo chili oil at his Chinatown location. \"They're a very powerful plant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bailey planted his first few hundred acres of chickpeas a dozen years ago, after a retailer looking to sell more of the healthful legumes reached out to him on LinkedIn, making him a pioneer in Montana's grain-heavy Golden Triangle region. But word was spreading that the chickpea could pull in more money per pound than other legumes, while reducing the need for chemical inputs compared with crops like wheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Tim McGreevy started working in 1994 as the CEO of the\u003ca href=\"https://www.usapulses.org/\"> USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council and the American Pulse Association\u003c/a> — a trade group that trumpets the power of chickpeas, lentils, dry peas and beans — the country was harvesting about 30,000 acres of chickpeas annually, primarily in the hilly Palouse agricultural region of Washington, Idaho and Oregon. By last year, that number had swelled to 859,000 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's a pretty big difference in 25 years,\" says McGreevy, who also grows chickpeas on a small farm in Eastern Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year in particular, Bailey says, \"it seemed like the entire state of Montana was chickpeas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While about half of the country's chickpea harvest is still shipped overseas, a growing number of chickpeas are going to domestic markets as demand increases. Trade disputes also are making international markets less reliable. In 2019, U.S. farmers reduced for the first time in years the number of acres they planned to plant in chickpeas, down to 519,000 acres. Volatile trade riffs with countries such as India in 2018 left much of that year's harvest\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2018/12/31/678416352/chickpeas-sit-in-silos-as-trumps-trade-wars-wage-on\"> sitting in silos\u003c/a>, where an oversupply has continued to depress chickpea prices this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The saving grace — and why I'm still optimistic — is the domestic market continues to grow for all pulse crops,\" McGreevy says. He thinks the lower price could also spur even more innovation of chickpea-based foods. \"Chickpeas have, in particular, shown significant growth in sales over the past decade.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-134129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Americans spent nearly $800 million on hummus from retail stores in 2018.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/lilses.jan_.8.201914_custom-46c90909511fbe6a0c4e0a911363adfa9a25790f-s1600-c85-1200x799.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cbr>\nAmericans spent nearly $800 million on hummus from retail stores in 2018, McGreevy says. That's compared to just under $200 million in hummus sales a decade before and only $5 million in the mid-1990s, placing the popular dip among food retail's fastest-growing sectors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sabra.com/\">Sabra\u003c/a>, an Israeli company that's been partnered with PepsiCo since 2008, has led hummus' parade into U.S. markets over the past decade and is still one of the sector's largest players. A Sabra production plant in Chesterfield County, Va., where the company also has encouraged more farmers to grow chickpeas, was\u003ca href=\"https://www.richmond.com/business/sabra-dipping-co-opens-new-plant-expansion/article_7d6d6ea8-34d9-579b-8695-ade53328cfc5.html\"> expanded in 2014\u003c/a> to produce more than 8,000 tons of hummus a month in anticipation of market growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chickpea invasion has gone beyond the dip aisle, too, with crunchy roasted versions from companies like\u003ca href=\"http://hippeas.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_K9pqlJyXt_pIqdVv2rXLeYa26KQIculY4x0jo-ReOwPC4qC3ASamMaAugcEALw_wcB\"> Hippeas\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"http://www.thegoodbean.com/\"> The Good Bean\u003c/a> competing with potato chips as a healthful alternative. The U.S. Dietary Guidelines suggest Americans \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/appendix-3/\">eat 1 ½ cups of cooked pulses per week\u003c/a>, McGreevy notes. High in protein, dietary fiber and essential amino acids, pulses can play an even larger role in diets focused on reducing meat consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hummus already looms large on American snack tables, replacing ranch dressing as a healthier, cut-vegetable accompaniment. And, now, it's staging a takeover of the main meal, too. Hummus-based bowls are the centerpiece of chains like New York City's The Hummus & Pita Co., and a staple ingredient at\u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/mediterranean-middle-eastern-food-gaining-popularity-2018-6\"> the ballooning number of fast-casual Mediterranean concepts\u003c/a> such as Cava and Roti. Chickpeas\u003ca href=\"https://www.amny.com/eat-and-drink/chickpea-food-trend-1.33295907\"> are cropping up on menus\u003c/a> in Asian noodle dishes, French fries, soft-serve \"ice cream\" and \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/delighted-by-dessert-hummus\">dessert-like frostings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But perhaps the easiest way to wade into the chickpea fray is to find a really good bowl of hummus — which doubles as the Arabic word for chickpea — and shovel it in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Whitney Pipkin is a freelance journalist living just outside Washington. You can find more of her work \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.whitneypipkin.com/\">here\u003c/a>.\u003cem> Follow her on Twitter at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Whitneypipkin\">@WhitneyPipkin\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/10/739054484/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134124/your-hummus-habit-could-be-good-for-the-earth","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134124"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_11123","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_2658","bayareabites_449","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134125","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_133310":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_133310","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"133310","score":null,"sort":[1554827242000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage","title":"Are Plastic Bag Bans Garbage?","publishDate":1554827242,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Editor's note:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cem> This is an excerpt of Planet Money's newsletter. You can \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=0f58426c20711c96eb86962aa75f80d116a3dbe482b720309a0cfc7e38ea8c236c54255f4ce3e0281ef7d857a5b06cc77cc907a188052e76\">\u003cem>sign up here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"lowdown_29456,bayareabites_132936\" label=\"More Info About Plastics\"]\u003cbr>\nIt was only about \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595f090eebf6b5b8677328b4160fa6c148256dee3a62fd75f97e141d7e9fdf2bdb9dcd7a701a47e920440c9b9defc150d9f\">40 years ago\u003c/a> that plastic bags became standard at U.S. grocery stores. This also made them standard in sewers, landfills, rivers and \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095955ff14c30247bc135c72429f9b517947e287896f1eb36fdedbbe319afebc711e5a3a1f3f66cd951c3a2f8b5d915836425\">the Great Pacific Garbage Patch\u003c/a>. They clog drains and cause floods, litter landscapes and kill wildlife. The national movement to get rid of them is gaining steam — with \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595d0c737c7dc6c8e81882bfec1511b24d6e8f9ecbbb07fe99934c10907de22053de7b14b6936a0c21039a1380347958161\">more than 240 cities and counties\u003c/a> passing laws that ban or tax them since 2007. \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595c037fb4b66cd3cfa972ccadf1bd1040b6d42896c75f5ac763efda9caecd83cdcd01134bd8bc1f797599191683c0774d6\">New York\u003c/a> recently became the second U.S. state to ban them. But these bans may be hurting the environment more than helping it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>University of Sydney economist Rebecca Taylor started studying bag regulations because it seemed as though every time she moved for a new job — from Washington, D.C., to California, to Australia — bag restrictions were implemented shortly after. \"Yeah, these policies might be following me,\" she jokes. Taylor \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc0959585a9885c922bffd84687da04c992a51c68ef688dc70d231b0ef7c79b639e77b918c9fec52af5a407b36305c8ae9d9145\">recently published\u003c/a> a study of bag regulations in California. It's a classic tale of unintended consequences.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Paper or plastic?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Before California banned plastic shopping bags statewide in late 2016, a wave of \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095958c514da571b7b53f3d2c5c1e4b74ded2c17c1e7d920323852a7d0ca168fcd9faf449bc07f86f58c92142dcae2c8ca4d6\">139 Californian cities and counties\u003c/a> implemented the policy themselves. Taylor and colleagues compared bag use in cities with bans to those without them. For six months, they spent weekends in grocery stores tallying the types of bags people carried out (she admits these weren't her wildest weekends). She also analyzed these stores' sales data.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor found these bag bans did what they were supposed to do. People in the cities with the bans used fewer plastic bags, which led to about 40 million fewer pounds of plastic trash per year. But people who used to reuse their shopping bags for other purposes, like picking up dog poop or lining trash bins, still needed bags. \"What I found was that sales of garbage bags actually skyrocketed after plastic grocery bags were banned,\" she says. This was particularly the case for small, 4-gallon bags, which saw a 120 percent increase in sales after bans went into effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Trash Bag Sales Jumped After Grocery Bag Bans\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/04/Trash-Bag-Sales-Jumped-After-Grocery-Bag-Bans-e1554827044116.png\" alt=\"Source: Taylor, 2019, “Bag leakage: The effect of disposable carryout bag regulations on unregulated bags.” Researcher’s own analyses calculated based in part on data from The Nielsen Co. (US) LLC and marketing databases provided through the Nielsen Datasets at the Kilts Center for Marketing Data Center at The University of Chicago Booth School of Business. The conclusions drawn from the Nielsen data are those of the researcher and do not reflect the views of Nielsen. Nielsen is not responsible for, had no role in, and was not involved in analyzing and preparing the results reported herein.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133315\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: Taylor, 2019, “Bag leakage: The effect of disposable carryout bag regulations on unregulated bags.” Researcher’s own analyses calculated based in part on data from The Nielsen Co. (US) LLC and marketing databases provided through the Nielsen Datasets at the Kilts Center for Marketing Data Center at The University of Chicago Booth School of Business. The conclusions drawn from the Nielsen data are those of the researcher and do not reflect the views of Nielsen. Nielsen is not responsible for, had no role in, and was not involved in analyzing and preparing the results reported herein. \u003ccite>(Koko Nakajima and Alyson Hurt/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://apps.npr.org/dailygraphics/graphics/pm-plastic-bags-20190405?mode=childlink&utm_source=nprnews&utm_medium=app&utm_campaign=storyredirect\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Don't see the graphic above? Click here.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trash bags are thick and use more plastic than typical shopping bags. \"So about 30 percent of the plastic that was eliminated by the ban comes back in the form of thicker garbage bags,\" Taylor says. On top of that, cities that banned plastic bags saw a surge in the use of paper bags, which she estimates resulted in about 80 million pounds of extra paper trash per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plastic haters, it's time to brace yourselves. A \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc0959588e107f0dd2207a44cbbdc612ae8881a1e90f3e3653e87bb42fab1b8d02e71dfb416cbcc2a7fef7b31ad98fab4575785\">bunch\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595b958d40e8bf45ade43c3abeb7a03e6ad5750e3e4a858c1e64d14ea15f6ea80783d4f5e64027b18176e23d30bf26da78a\">of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595878ccef3b3490cc049ee41812ef5c4aae26ee82a368fd2480d7a85a21fdc1cc4b7db8e0141ae27c1a946e113e74419ea\">studies\u003c/a> find that paper bags are actually worse for the environment. They require cutting down and processing trees, which involves lots of water, toxic chemicals, fuel and heavy machinery. While paper is biodegradable and avoids some of the problems of plastic, Taylor says, the huge increase of paper, together with the uptick in plastic trash bags, means banning plastic shopping bags increases greenhouse gas emissions. That said, these bans do reduce nonbiodegradable litter.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Are tote bags killing us?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>What about reusable cloth bags? We know die-hard public radio fans love them! They've got to be great, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nope. They can be even worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095959e202c8a5f6b81128b8dc59def3bf06cd51a07ef176319b33119075d17d659c296b95b18fa673641132a8dcd9dfaacc4\">2011 study\u003c/a> by the U.K. government found a person would have to reuse their cotton tote bag 131 times before it was better for climate change than using a plastic grocery bag once. The Danish government recently did \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595e0325dd395fd7be3b711c8bb1224a6723ab95153d26abdbd7606758f1b736d8036338ca82f56b0f7c9191544d8bdcb51\">a study\u003c/a> that took into account environmental impacts beyond simply greenhouse gas emissions, including water use, damage to ecosystems and air pollution. These factors make cloth bags even worse. They estimate you would have to use an organic cotton bag \u003cem>20,000 times\u003c/em> more than a plastic grocery bag to make using it better for the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the Danish government's estimate doesn't take into account the effects of bags littering land and sea, where plastic is clearly the worst offender.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Stop depressing me. What should we do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The most environment-friendly way to carry groceries is to use the same bag over and over again. According to the Danish study, the best reusable ones are made from polyester or plastics like polypropylene. Those still have to be used dozens and dozens of times to be greener than plastic grocery bags, which have \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095950476b0a8d5dd9b42f48813059c745045465075066f86e6c385be89af362ef0f57317053a3191765a5ecb49c42528925c\">the smallest carbon footprint\u003c/a> for a single use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for bag policies, Taylor says a fee is smarter than a ban. She has \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595ad5ff265b7133522d269b211af71322ab9613e6dbc8429036f6d146e847f31fe437c95125ec810b25aa538dbb68f6fbe\">a second paper\u003c/a> showing a small fee for bags is just as effective as a ban when it comes to encouraging use of reusable bags. But a fee offers flexibility for people who reuse plastic bags for garbage disposal or dog walking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor believes the recent legislation passed in New York is a bad version of the policy. It bans only plastic bags and gives free rein to using paper ones (\u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595b933a02378175fe2cff042f510b693b5692697e5f185f6679d64063408f84e7d17de604b2074f04ef3709b50f399c7e1\">counties have the option\u003c/a> to impose a 5-cent fee on them). Taylor is concerned this will drive up paper use. The best policy, Taylor says, imposes a fee on both paper and plastic bags and encourages reuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bag research makes public radio's love for tote bags awkward, doesn't it? It might be weird though if we started giving out plastic grocery bags.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2019/04/09/711181385/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A national movement to ban plastic bags is gaining steam, but these restrictions may actually hurt the environment more than help it. Human nature, hard truths, and what kind of bag to use anyway?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1554827242,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":1024},"headData":{"title":"Are Plastic Bag Bans Garbage? | KQED","description":"A national movement to ban plastic bags is gaining steam, but these restrictions may actually hurt the environment more than help it. Human nature, hard truths, and what kind of bag to use anyway?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Are Plastic Bag Bans Garbage?","datePublished":"2019-04-09T16:27:22.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-09T16:27:22.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"133310 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=133310","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/04/09/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage/","disqusTitle":"Are Plastic Bag Bans Garbage?","nprImageCredit":"Fiona Goodall","nprByline":"Greg Rosalsky, Planet Money","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"711181385","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=711181385&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2019/04/09/711181385/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage?ft=nprml&f=711181385","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 09 Apr 2019 10:01:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 09 Apr 2019 08:04:41 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 09 Apr 2019 10:02:02 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/133310/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Editor's note:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cem> This is an excerpt of Planet Money's newsletter. You can \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=0f58426c20711c96eb86962aa75f80d116a3dbe482b720309a0cfc7e38ea8c236c54255f4ce3e0281ef7d857a5b06cc77cc907a188052e76\">\u003cem>sign up here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"lowdown_29456,bayareabites_132936","label":"More Info About Plastics "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIt was only about \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595f090eebf6b5b8677328b4160fa6c148256dee3a62fd75f97e141d7e9fdf2bdb9dcd7a701a47e920440c9b9defc150d9f\">40 years ago\u003c/a> that plastic bags became standard at U.S. grocery stores. This also made them standard in sewers, landfills, rivers and \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095955ff14c30247bc135c72429f9b517947e287896f1eb36fdedbbe319afebc711e5a3a1f3f66cd951c3a2f8b5d915836425\">the Great Pacific Garbage Patch\u003c/a>. They clog drains and cause floods, litter landscapes and kill wildlife. The national movement to get rid of them is gaining steam — with \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595d0c737c7dc6c8e81882bfec1511b24d6e8f9ecbbb07fe99934c10907de22053de7b14b6936a0c21039a1380347958161\">more than 240 cities and counties\u003c/a> passing laws that ban or tax them since 2007. \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595c037fb4b66cd3cfa972ccadf1bd1040b6d42896c75f5ac763efda9caecd83cdcd01134bd8bc1f797599191683c0774d6\">New York\u003c/a> recently became the second U.S. state to ban them. But these bans may be hurting the environment more than helping it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>University of Sydney economist Rebecca Taylor started studying bag regulations because it seemed as though every time she moved for a new job — from Washington, D.C., to California, to Australia — bag restrictions were implemented shortly after. \"Yeah, these policies might be following me,\" she jokes. Taylor \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc0959585a9885c922bffd84687da04c992a51c68ef688dc70d231b0ef7c79b639e77b918c9fec52af5a407b36305c8ae9d9145\">recently published\u003c/a> a study of bag regulations in California. It's a classic tale of unintended consequences.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Paper or plastic?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Before California banned plastic shopping bags statewide in late 2016, a wave of \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095958c514da571b7b53f3d2c5c1e4b74ded2c17c1e7d920323852a7d0ca168fcd9faf449bc07f86f58c92142dcae2c8ca4d6\">139 Californian cities and counties\u003c/a> implemented the policy themselves. Taylor and colleagues compared bag use in cities with bans to those without them. For six months, they spent weekends in grocery stores tallying the types of bags people carried out (she admits these weren't her wildest weekends). She also analyzed these stores' sales data.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor found these bag bans did what they were supposed to do. People in the cities with the bans used fewer plastic bags, which led to about 40 million fewer pounds of plastic trash per year. But people who used to reuse their shopping bags for other purposes, like picking up dog poop or lining trash bins, still needed bags. \"What I found was that sales of garbage bags actually skyrocketed after plastic grocery bags were banned,\" she says. This was particularly the case for small, 4-gallon bags, which saw a 120 percent increase in sales after bans went into effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Trash Bag Sales Jumped After Grocery Bag Bans\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/04/Trash-Bag-Sales-Jumped-After-Grocery-Bag-Bans-e1554827044116.png\" alt=\"Source: Taylor, 2019, “Bag leakage: The effect of disposable carryout bag regulations on unregulated bags.” Researcher’s own analyses calculated based in part on data from The Nielsen Co. (US) LLC and marketing databases provided through the Nielsen Datasets at the Kilts Center for Marketing Data Center at The University of Chicago Booth School of Business. The conclusions drawn from the Nielsen data are those of the researcher and do not reflect the views of Nielsen. Nielsen is not responsible for, had no role in, and was not involved in analyzing and preparing the results reported herein.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133315\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: Taylor, 2019, “Bag leakage: The effect of disposable carryout bag regulations on unregulated bags.” Researcher’s own analyses calculated based in part on data from The Nielsen Co. (US) LLC and marketing databases provided through the Nielsen Datasets at the Kilts Center for Marketing Data Center at The University of Chicago Booth School of Business. The conclusions drawn from the Nielsen data are those of the researcher and do not reflect the views of Nielsen. Nielsen is not responsible for, had no role in, and was not involved in analyzing and preparing the results reported herein. \u003ccite>(Koko Nakajima and Alyson Hurt/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://apps.npr.org/dailygraphics/graphics/pm-plastic-bags-20190405?mode=childlink&utm_source=nprnews&utm_medium=app&utm_campaign=storyredirect\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Don't see the graphic above? Click here.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trash bags are thick and use more plastic than typical shopping bags. \"So about 30 percent of the plastic that was eliminated by the ban comes back in the form of thicker garbage bags,\" Taylor says. On top of that, cities that banned plastic bags saw a surge in the use of paper bags, which she estimates resulted in about 80 million pounds of extra paper trash per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plastic haters, it's time to brace yourselves. A \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc0959588e107f0dd2207a44cbbdc612ae8881a1e90f3e3653e87bb42fab1b8d02e71dfb416cbcc2a7fef7b31ad98fab4575785\">bunch\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595b958d40e8bf45ade43c3abeb7a03e6ad5750e3e4a858c1e64d14ea15f6ea80783d4f5e64027b18176e23d30bf26da78a\">of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595878ccef3b3490cc049ee41812ef5c4aae26ee82a368fd2480d7a85a21fdc1cc4b7db8e0141ae27c1a946e113e74419ea\">studies\u003c/a> find that paper bags are actually worse for the environment. They require cutting down and processing trees, which involves lots of water, toxic chemicals, fuel and heavy machinery. While paper is biodegradable and avoids some of the problems of plastic, Taylor says, the huge increase of paper, together with the uptick in plastic trash bags, means banning plastic shopping bags increases greenhouse gas emissions. That said, these bans do reduce nonbiodegradable litter.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Are tote bags killing us?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>What about reusable cloth bags? We know die-hard public radio fans love them! They've got to be great, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nope. They can be even worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095959e202c8a5f6b81128b8dc59def3bf06cd51a07ef176319b33119075d17d659c296b95b18fa673641132a8dcd9dfaacc4\">2011 study\u003c/a> by the U.K. government found a person would have to reuse their cotton tote bag 131 times before it was better for climate change than using a plastic grocery bag once. The Danish government recently did \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595e0325dd395fd7be3b711c8bb1224a6723ab95153d26abdbd7606758f1b736d8036338ca82f56b0f7c9191544d8bdcb51\">a study\u003c/a> that took into account environmental impacts beyond simply greenhouse gas emissions, including water use, damage to ecosystems and air pollution. These factors make cloth bags even worse. They estimate you would have to use an organic cotton bag \u003cem>20,000 times\u003c/em> more than a plastic grocery bag to make using it better for the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the Danish government's estimate doesn't take into account the effects of bags littering land and sea, where plastic is clearly the worst offender.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Stop depressing me. What should we do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The most environment-friendly way to carry groceries is to use the same bag over and over again. According to the Danish study, the best reusable ones are made from polyester or plastics like polypropylene. Those still have to be used dozens and dozens of times to be greener than plastic grocery bags, which have \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc095950476b0a8d5dd9b42f48813059c745045465075066f86e6c385be89af362ef0f57317053a3191765a5ecb49c42528925c\">the smallest carbon footprint\u003c/a> for a single use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for bag policies, Taylor says a fee is smarter than a ban. She has \u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595ad5ff265b7133522d269b211af71322ab9613e6dbc8429036f6d146e847f31fe437c95125ec810b25aa538dbb68f6fbe\">a second paper\u003c/a> showing a small fee for bags is just as effective as a ban when it comes to encouraging use of reusable bags. But a fee offers flexibility for people who reuse plastic bags for garbage disposal or dog walking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor believes the recent legislation passed in New York is a bad version of the policy. It bans only plastic bags and gives free rein to using paper ones (\u003ca href=\"http://click.et.npr.org/?qs=27fb6bddbcc09595b933a02378175fe2cff042f510b693b5692697e5f185f6679d64063408f84e7d17de604b2074f04ef3709b50f399c7e1\">counties have the option\u003c/a> to impose a 5-cent fee on them). Taylor is concerned this will drive up paper use. The best policy, Taylor says, imposes a fee on both paper and plastic bags and encourages reuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bag research makes public radio's love for tote bags awkward, doesn't it? It might be weird though if we started giving out plastic grocery bags.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2019/04/09/711181385/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/133310/are-plastic-bag-bans-garbage","authors":["byline_bayareabites_133310"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_16390","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_133311","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_116943":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116943","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116943","score":null,"sort":[1492869628000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-truth-about-ugly-foods-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet","title":"The Truth About Ugly Foods: They're Delicious, Abundant And Good For The Planet","publishDate":1492869628,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Tim Wharton bristles at being called a \"foodie,\" with its connotation of lush, sumptuous \"food porn.\" He prefers \"gastronaut,\" a label popularized by late British television chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/chefs/keith_floyd\">Keith Floyd\u003c/a>, for its evocation of intrepid culinary exploration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wharton's provocative new book \u003ca href=\"http://www.hurstpublishers.com/book/ugly-food/\">Ugly Food: Overlooked and Undercooked\u003c/a>, written with fellow gourmet Richard Horsey, is a celebration of the gustatory pleasures of octopus and other beasts and plants less eaten. The authors make an impassioned case for why we should prefer the likes of sea robin, a plug-ugly whiskered fish found along America's eastern seaboard, to the comelier but parlously-overfished Atlantic cod and its kin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton met as grad students at the University of London in the 1990s, bonding over a mutual love of food on a trip to California. They found the academic conference they were attending underwhelming, but accomplished their extra-curricular mission, says Horsey, \"to blow all (our) money on the best food we could get.\" \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> is a love letter to the dishes Horsey, an international political analyst based in Myanmar, and Wharton, a musician-turned-academic at the University of Brighton in southern England, have encountered in their quest to delve \"beyond the [chicken] breast.\" But the recipes it serves up — Maldivian curried octopus, boiled sheep's head from Scandinavia, rabbit stifado from Greece, French giblet pie and, of their own devising, ice-filtered squirrel consommé among other delicacies — throw into sharp relief a mainstream Anglo-American food culture fixated on the sanitized presentation of flawless specimens of a few favored foods. Besides being a cookbook, \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> is equal parts culinary \"manifesto,\" earthy polemic and disquisition into why we embrace some ingredients but balk at others no less nourishing and delicious and often considerably cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Actually, ugliness isn't the half of it. For every homely fish in \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> there are cute critters like rabbit or squirrel that are similarly spurned — anything in fact that evokes an \"emotional reaction, positive or negative,\" according to Horsey and Wharton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food industry, like the fashion industry, seems driven by the pursuit of impossible perfection,\" they write. \"Endless rows of blemish-free fruit and vegetables in supermarkets that taste of not-very-much. Pre-packaged meats with nary a head or foot or tail in sight. And a steady stream of cookbooks and articles with Photoshopped, super-saturated photos of beautiful dishes bathed in summer sunlight.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116947\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbit, skinned and gutted, and ready to be made into rabbit stifado (a Greek stew with wine and onions) or rabbit ragu with penne and parmesan, a recipe devised by Horsey that has received rave reviews from 'Ugly Food' readers in the UK.\" width=\"600\" height=\"757\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116947\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-520x656.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rabbit, skinned and gutted, and ready to be made into rabbit stifado (a Greek stew with wine and onions) or rabbit ragu with penne and parmesan, a recipe devised by Horsey that has received rave reviews from 'Ugly Food' readers in the UK. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tanya Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a result, we've become estranged from the \"messy reality\" of the origins of food, says Horsey. Any sign of life — blood, guts, feathers, mud — is \"suspect.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a relatively recent phenomenon, Horsey and Wharton note. Many foods we shun now were once staples in Britain, Ireland and America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In perhaps the most celebrated English-language novel of the 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, set in Dublin on June 16, 1904, James Joyce introduces \u003cem>Ulysses\u003c/em>' everyman lead character with a description of his culinary habits:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mr. Leopold Bloom ate with relish the inner organs of beasts and fowls. He liked thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liver slices fried with crustcrumbs, fried hencod's roes. Most of all he liked grilled mutton kidneys which gave to his palate a fine tang of faintly scented urine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a menu of items that have long since disappeared from most of our plates. But it isn't only the impoverishment of diets and loss of culinary heritage that Horsey and Wharton lament. Confining ourselves to a narrow range of foodstuffs promotes unsustainable fishing practices, focused on a few prized species, and intensive factory farming, they write. Then there's the sheer waste from discarding perfectly edible fish outside the approved canon, not to mention the carbon footprint of shipping produce from afar when it's unavailable locally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey applauds the movement to rehabilitate \"misshapen\" fruit and vegetables and push supermarkets to stock them at markdowns for \"highlighting waste in the supply chain.\" But he worries that selling them at a discount stigmatizes them as inferior when they're no less tasty than their perfectly formed brethren along the aisle. Besides, it reinforces a food production system that extols beauty over flavor, he adds. No supermarket carrots, pristine or otherwise, are going to taste very good, he says, because they're \"cultivated for appearance rather than taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> pushes a more radical agenda. \"[We can] get tasty, sustainable, environmentally sound ingredients,\" says Horsey, \"if [we] move away from the idea of the food industry as a purveyor of impossibly perfect ideals and start seeing it as a purveyor of grubby things that... taste great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey applauds the efforts of certain food TV personalities to \"demythologize\" unfamiliar and, yes, ugly food. Still, this often takes the form of a \"dare me to eat it\" approach that \"exceptionalizes\" such items, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton conceive of their mission in more practical terms. Many of the ingredients they spotlight can seem a little\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>exotic and far from table-ready. So \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> offers techniques to cook ingredients like octopus (delicious braised, boiled, blanched or dried) and make them more approachable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People [don't] need to visit an expensive restaurant to experience this,\" says Wharton. \"[It's] something they can do themselves.\" For example, buying a whole fish and freezing the head and bones to make soup or stew, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton are already plotting a sequel to show home cooks how to shop for cheap and flavorful ugly food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take giblets, says Horsey. \"They're not expensive and really are quite delicate and approachable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A char-grilled chicken heart... with plenty of salt and some lemon is my favorite part of a chicken,\" adds Wharton. \"It's just a shame they only have one small heart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>Stephen Phillips is a writer in Portland, OR. His work has appeared in \u003cem>The Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>The San Francisco Chronicle,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Financial Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>Higher Education, \u003c/em>the \u003cem>South China Morning \u003c/em>Post and on \u003cem>The Atlantic\u003c/em>'s website. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From ugly fish like sea robin to the discarded parts of livestock, like ox cheeks and chicken feet, a new book celebrates repugnant-looking but flavorful foods, and urges us to eat more of them.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1492843324,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1058},"headData":{"title":"The Truth About Ugly Foods: They're Delicious, Abundant And Good For The Planet | KQED","description":"From ugly fish like sea robin to the discarded parts of livestock, like ox cheeks and chicken feet, a new book celebrates repugnant-looking but flavorful foods, and urges us to eat more of them.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Truth About Ugly Foods: They're Delicious, Abundant And Good For The Planet","datePublished":"2017-04-22T14:00:28.000Z","dateModified":"2017-04-22T06:42:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"116943 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116943","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/22/the-truth-about-ugly-foods-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet/","disqusTitle":"The Truth About Ugly Foods: They're Delicious, Abundant And Good For The Planet","nprByline":"Stephen Phillips, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/20/524725995/the-truth-about-ugly-food-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet\">NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>","nprImageAgency":"Couresty of Tanya Ghosh","nprStoryId":"524725995","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=524725995&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/20/524725995/the-truth-about-ugly-food-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet?ft=nprml&f=524725995","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 20 Apr 2017 14:28:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 20 Apr 2017 14:25:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 20 Apr 2017 14:29:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/116943/the-truth-about-ugly-foods-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Tim Wharton bristles at being called a \"foodie,\" with its connotation of lush, sumptuous \"food porn.\" He prefers \"gastronaut,\" a label popularized by late British television chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/chefs/keith_floyd\">Keith Floyd\u003c/a>, for its evocation of intrepid culinary exploration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wharton's provocative new book \u003ca href=\"http://www.hurstpublishers.com/book/ugly-food/\">Ugly Food: Overlooked and Undercooked\u003c/a>, written with fellow gourmet Richard Horsey, is a celebration of the gustatory pleasures of octopus and other beasts and plants less eaten. The authors make an impassioned case for why we should prefer the likes of sea robin, a plug-ugly whiskered fish found along America's eastern seaboard, to the comelier but parlously-overfished Atlantic cod and its kin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton met as grad students at the University of London in the 1990s, bonding over a mutual love of food on a trip to California. They found the academic conference they were attending underwhelming, but accomplished their extra-curricular mission, says Horsey, \"to blow all (our) money on the best food we could get.\" \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> is a love letter to the dishes Horsey, an international political analyst based in Myanmar, and Wharton, a musician-turned-academic at the University of Brighton in southern England, have encountered in their quest to delve \"beyond the [chicken] breast.\" But the recipes it serves up — Maldivian curried octopus, boiled sheep's head from Scandinavia, rabbit stifado from Greece, French giblet pie and, of their own devising, ice-filtered squirrel consommé among other delicacies — throw into sharp relief a mainstream Anglo-American food culture fixated on the sanitized presentation of flawless specimens of a few favored foods. Besides being a cookbook, \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> is equal parts culinary \"manifesto,\" earthy polemic and disquisition into why we embrace some ingredients but balk at others no less nourishing and delicious and often considerably cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Actually, ugliness isn't the half of it. For every homely fish in \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> there are cute critters like rabbit or squirrel that are similarly spurned — anything in fact that evokes an \"emotional reaction, positive or negative,\" according to Horsey and Wharton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food industry, like the fashion industry, seems driven by the pursuit of impossible perfection,\" they write. \"Endless rows of blemish-free fruit and vegetables in supermarkets that taste of not-very-much. Pre-packaged meats with nary a head or foot or tail in sight. And a steady stream of cookbooks and articles with Photoshopped, super-saturated photos of beautiful dishes bathed in summer sunlight.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116947\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbit, skinned and gutted, and ready to be made into rabbit stifado (a Greek stew with wine and onions) or rabbit ragu with penne and parmesan, a recipe devised by Horsey that has received rave reviews from 'Ugly Food' readers in the UK.\" width=\"600\" height=\"757\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116947\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/ugly-food-7-2_custom-270ef64d30fa1a530eb7f0e7a157361de5b70e9f-s600-c85-520x656.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rabbit, skinned and gutted, and ready to be made into rabbit stifado (a Greek stew with wine and onions) or rabbit ragu with penne and parmesan, a recipe devised by Horsey that has received rave reviews from 'Ugly Food' readers in the UK. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tanya Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a result, we've become estranged from the \"messy reality\" of the origins of food, says Horsey. Any sign of life — blood, guts, feathers, mud — is \"suspect.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a relatively recent phenomenon, Horsey and Wharton note. Many foods we shun now were once staples in Britain, Ireland and America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In perhaps the most celebrated English-language novel of the 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, set in Dublin on June 16, 1904, James Joyce introduces \u003cem>Ulysses\u003c/em>' everyman lead character with a description of his culinary habits:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mr. Leopold Bloom ate with relish the inner organs of beasts and fowls. He liked thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liver slices fried with crustcrumbs, fried hencod's roes. Most of all he liked grilled mutton kidneys which gave to his palate a fine tang of faintly scented urine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a menu of items that have long since disappeared from most of our plates. But it isn't only the impoverishment of diets and loss of culinary heritage that Horsey and Wharton lament. Confining ourselves to a narrow range of foodstuffs promotes unsustainable fishing practices, focused on a few prized species, and intensive factory farming, they write. Then there's the sheer waste from discarding perfectly edible fish outside the approved canon, not to mention the carbon footprint of shipping produce from afar when it's unavailable locally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey applauds the movement to rehabilitate \"misshapen\" fruit and vegetables and push supermarkets to stock them at markdowns for \"highlighting waste in the supply chain.\" But he worries that selling them at a discount stigmatizes them as inferior when they're no less tasty than their perfectly formed brethren along the aisle. Besides, it reinforces a food production system that extols beauty over flavor, he adds. No supermarket carrots, pristine or otherwise, are going to taste very good, he says, because they're \"cultivated for appearance rather than taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> pushes a more radical agenda. \"[We can] get tasty, sustainable, environmentally sound ingredients,\" says Horsey, \"if [we] move away from the idea of the food industry as a purveyor of impossibly perfect ideals and start seeing it as a purveyor of grubby things that... taste great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey applauds the efforts of certain food TV personalities to \"demythologize\" unfamiliar and, yes, ugly food. Still, this often takes the form of a \"dare me to eat it\" approach that \"exceptionalizes\" such items, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton conceive of their mission in more practical terms. Many of the ingredients they spotlight can seem a little\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>exotic and far from table-ready. So \u003cem>Ugly Food\u003c/em> offers techniques to cook ingredients like octopus (delicious braised, boiled, blanched or dried) and make them more approachable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People [don't] need to visit an expensive restaurant to experience this,\" says Wharton. \"[It's] something they can do themselves.\" For example, buying a whole fish and freezing the head and bones to make soup or stew, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horsey and Wharton are already plotting a sequel to show home cooks how to shop for cheap and flavorful ugly food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take giblets, says Horsey. \"They're not expensive and really are quite delicate and approachable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A char-grilled chicken heart... with plenty of salt and some lemon is my favorite part of a chicken,\" adds Wharton. \"It's just a shame they only have one small heart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>Stephen Phillips is a writer in Portland, OR. His work has appeared in \u003cem>The Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>The San Francisco Chronicle,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Financial Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>Higher Education, \u003c/em>the \u003cem>South China Morning \u003c/em>Post and on \u003cem>The Atlantic\u003c/em>'s website. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116943/the-truth-about-ugly-foods-theyre-delicious-abundant-and-good-for-the-planet","authors":["byline_bayareabites_116943"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_10492"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116944","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_109101":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_109101","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"109101","score":null,"sort":[1462491165000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-environmental-cost-of-growing-food","title":"The Environmental Cost Of Growing Food","publishDate":1462491165,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic.jpg\" alt=\"Leonard Scinto, a researcher at Florida International University, standing beside a concrete post that measures the subsidence of soil in the Everglades Agricultural Area. In 1924, the top of the post was level with the ground surface.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109107\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leonard Scinto, a researcher at Florida International University, standing beside a concrete post that measures the subsidence of soil in the Everglades Agricultural Area. In 1924, the top of the post was level with the ground surface. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/05/20160505_atc_sugar_v_sugar.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's say you're an environmentally motivated eater. You want your diet to do as little damage as possible to our planet's forests and grasslands and wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how do you decide which food is greener?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take one example: sugar. About half of America's sugar comes from sugar cane, and half from sugar beets. They grow in completely different climates. Sugar cane is a tropical crop, and sugar beets grow where it's colder and dryer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each one has an impact on the environment — sometimes a dramatic impact — but in very different ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go to south Florida, for instance, to the town of Belle Glade, there's a silent yet dramatic measure of the cost of growing sugar there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a concrete post, painted white.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Environmental scientist \u003ca href=\"http://earthenvironment.fiu.edu/faculty/leonard-scinto/\">Leonard Scinto\u003c/a>, from Florida International University, is standing beside the pole, and the top of it is above his head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in 1924, when researchers drove that pole deep into the soil, they left the top of it level with the surface of the ground. Over the intervening decades, the land surface has fallen, exposing six feet of pole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've lost two-thirds of the soil right here,\" says Scinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because the soil here is no ordinary dirt. It's peat, the remains of long-dead vegetation. \"It's old decaying plant fiber,\" says Scinto. \"Decaying roots. It built up over a few thousand years in the northern Everglades. Built up bit by bit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a.jpg\" alt=\"A sugar beet. This crop supplies about half of America's sugar.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109102\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sugar beet. This crop supplies about half of America's sugar. \u003ccite>(iStockphoto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For all those thousands of years, it didn't rot away, because the dead plants were submerged in water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But starting a century ago, people drained this area and created the Everglades Agricultural Area. It's a thousand square miles of fields for farmers like Rick Roth to grow vegetables and sugar cane. Especially sugar cane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would make the argument that this is the best place to farm in the United States, if not the entire world,\" says Roth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soil is fertile, but once exposed to air, it started to decompose. It turned into carbon dioxide and vanished. In another 50 or 100 years, so little soil will be left, it may not be possible to farm here anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The drained expanse of the Everglades Agricultural Area also prevents water from flowing, as it used to, from Lake Okeechobee in the north into Everglades National Park in the south. The water that does make it through picks up fertilizer from the farmland, causing more damage to the natural wetlands of the park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all these reasons, environmental advocates and the government of Florida have been putting pressure on farmers to limit the damage; to use less fertilizer and keep more of the peat soil immersed in water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roth is actually in favor of all that. Protecting the environment is important, he says — but it can't be more important than growing food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're trying to get land away from the farmers, saying that the Everglades is more important than food production, which I think is relatively insane,\" he says. \"Cheap food is the no. 1 goal! It should be the no. 1 goal of the world!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This conflict between growing food and protecting the environment is not just playing out in the Everglades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's everywhere, actually.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane.jpg\" alt=\"Harvesting sugar cane in Florida's Everglades Agricultural Area.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvesting sugar cane in Florida's Everglades Agricultural Area. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you don't get your sugar from Rick Roth's cane crop, you may get it from sugar beets that are growing on Bill Markham's farm at the base of the foothills of the Rocky Mountains near Berthoud, Colo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing beets, though, meant plowing up this area's grasslands a century ago. It also meant bringing in water; you can't grow much in this dry region without it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You got water coming out of the mountains. All our water comes out of the Big Thompson River,\" says Markham. \"They dug all the canals to get water to these farms.\" But that means less water for fish and frogs and riverside vegetation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter where food is grown, it has some environmental cost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, government officials and economists are trying to put a number on that cost. What's the price of soil in the Everglades? Or river water in Colorado. That price, if we could agree on it, might help all of us decide which food comes at a cost that we're not willing to pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Economist \u003ca href=\"https://www.econ.iastate.edu/people/catherine-kling\">Catherine Kling\u003c/a>, at Iowa State University, is working on this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In an ideal world, we would include the cost into a decision of where to produce, and how much to produce,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kling admits that this is not easy. It forces economists to be inventive. They've studied how much farther people are willing to drive to visit a pristine ecosystem versus a polluted one, for instance. That's a measure of how much they value it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2.jpg\" alt=\"Before sugar cane is harvested, farmers set fire to it to burn away the leaves.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Before sugar cane is harvested, farmers set fire to it to burn away the leaves. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Another way we do it is to straight-out ask people,\" Kling says. How much would they pay to restore a wetland, and bring back wildlife there?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all prices, these are based on personal preferences. Kling says that people tend to put higher values on ecosystems that seem unique, beautiful, original and natural. She hasn't tried to calculate the price that people would put on the ecosystem of the Everglades, and compare it to the grasslands of Colorado, but she suspects that people would consider the Everglades more valuable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologists aren't always happy about these subjective judgments. An ordinary-looking grassland can be just as precious, ecologically speaking, as an alligator-filled swamp. \"The key is not to lose ecosystems,\" says Leonard Scinto, from Florida International University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the way Kling sees it, just talking about the economic value of ecosystems represents real progress. It's evidence that policymakers — and even consumers — are starting to balance the value of food against the environmental cost of producing it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Economists are working on ways to put a price on the environmental damage of growing food. Take sugar: Half of what we eat comes from beets, half from cane. Each has an impact, in very different ways.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1462491199,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":36,"wordCount":1095},"headData":{"title":"The Environmental Cost Of Growing Food | KQED","description":"Economists are working on ways to put a price on the environmental damage of growing food. Take sugar: Half of what we eat comes from beets, half from cane. Each has an impact, in very different ways.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Environmental Cost Of Growing Food","datePublished":"2016-05-05T23:32:45.000Z","dateModified":"2016-05-05T23:33:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"109101 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=109101","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/05/the-environmental-cost-of-growing-food/","disqusTitle":"The Environmental Cost Of Growing Food","nprByline":"Dan Charles, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"iStockphoto","nprStoryId":"476600965","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=476600965&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/05/05/476600965/the-environmental-cost-of-growing-food?ft=nprml&f=476600965","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 05 May 2016 18:47:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 05 May 2016 17:53:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 05 May 2016 18:47:32 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/05/20160505_atc_sugar_v_sugar.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=311&p=2&story=476600965&t=progseg&e=476846872&seg=20&ft=nprml&f=476600965","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1476954766-f7839d.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=311&p=2&story=476600965&t=progseg&e=476846872&seg=20&ft=nprml&f=476600965","path":"/bayareabites/109101/the-environmental-cost-of-growing-food","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/05/20160505_atc_sugar_v_sugar.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic.jpg\" alt=\"Leonard Scinto, a researcher at Florida International University, standing beside a concrete post that measures the subsidence of soil in the Everglades Agricultural Area. In 1924, the top of the post was level with the ground surface.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109107\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarpic-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leonard Scinto, a researcher at Florida International University, standing beside a concrete post that measures the subsidence of soil in the Everglades Agricultural Area. In 1924, the top of the post was level with the ground surface. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/05/20160505_atc_sugar_v_sugar.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's say you're an environmentally motivated eater. You want your diet to do as little damage as possible to our planet's forests and grasslands and wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how do you decide which food is greener?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take one example: sugar. About half of America's sugar comes from sugar cane, and half from sugar beets. They grow in completely different climates. Sugar cane is a tropical crop, and sugar beets grow where it's colder and dryer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each one has an impact on the environment — sometimes a dramatic impact — but in very different ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go to south Florida, for instance, to the town of Belle Glade, there's a silent yet dramatic measure of the cost of growing sugar there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a concrete post, painted white.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Environmental scientist \u003ca href=\"http://earthenvironment.fiu.edu/faculty/leonard-scinto/\">Leonard Scinto\u003c/a>, from Florida International University, is standing beside the pole, and the top of it is above his head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in 1924, when researchers drove that pole deep into the soil, they left the top of it level with the surface of the ground. Over the intervening decades, the land surface has fallen, exposing six feet of pole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've lost two-thirds of the soil right here,\" says Scinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because the soil here is no ordinary dirt. It's peat, the remains of long-dead vegetation. \"It's old decaying plant fiber,\" says Scinto. \"Decaying roots. It built up over a few thousand years in the northern Everglades. Built up bit by bit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a.jpg\" alt=\"A sugar beet. This crop supplies about half of America's sugar.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109102\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarbeet_enl-63361349f56c744d9d1ed07a176e02181d0ef77a-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sugar beet. This crop supplies about half of America's sugar. \u003ccite>(iStockphoto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For all those thousands of years, it didn't rot away, because the dead plants were submerged in water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But starting a century ago, people drained this area and created the Everglades Agricultural Area. It's a thousand square miles of fields for farmers like Rick Roth to grow vegetables and sugar cane. Especially sugar cane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would make the argument that this is the best place to farm in the United States, if not the entire world,\" says Roth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soil is fertile, but once exposed to air, it started to decompose. It turned into carbon dioxide and vanished. In another 50 or 100 years, so little soil will be left, it may not be possible to farm here anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The drained expanse of the Everglades Agricultural Area also prevents water from flowing, as it used to, from Lake Okeechobee in the north into Everglades National Park in the south. The water that does make it through picks up fertilizer from the farmland, causing more damage to the natural wetlands of the park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all these reasons, environmental advocates and the government of Florida have been putting pressure on farmers to limit the damage; to use less fertilizer and keep more of the peat soil immersed in water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roth is actually in favor of all that. Protecting the environment is important, he says — but it can't be more important than growing food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're trying to get land away from the farmers, saying that the Everglades is more important than food production, which I think is relatively insane,\" he says. \"Cheap food is the no. 1 goal! It should be the no. 1 goal of the world!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This conflict between growing food and protecting the environment is not just playing out in the Everglades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's everywhere, actually.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane.jpg\" alt=\"Harvesting sugar cane in Florida's Everglades Agricultural Area.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvesting sugar cane in Florida's Everglades Agricultural Area. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you don't get your sugar from Rick Roth's cane crop, you may get it from sugar beets that are growing on Bill Markham's farm at the base of the foothills of the Rocky Mountains near Berthoud, Colo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing beets, though, meant plowing up this area's grasslands a century ago. It also meant bringing in water; you can't grow much in this dry region without it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You got water coming out of the mountains. All our water comes out of the Big Thompson River,\" says Markham. \"They dug all the canals to get water to these farms.\" But that means less water for fish and frogs and riverside vegetation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter where food is grown, it has some environmental cost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, government officials and economists are trying to put a number on that cost. What's the price of soil in the Everglades? Or river water in Colorado. That price, if we could agree on it, might help all of us decide which food comes at a cost that we're not willing to pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Economist \u003ca href=\"https://www.econ.iastate.edu/people/catherine-kling\">Catherine Kling\u003c/a>, at Iowa State University, is working on this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In an ideal world, we would include the cost into a decision of where to produce, and how much to produce,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kling admits that this is not easy. It forces economists to be inventive. They've studied how much farther people are willing to drive to visit a pristine ecosystem versus a polluted one, for instance. That's a measure of how much they value it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2.jpg\" alt=\"Before sugar cane is harvested, farmers set fire to it to burn away the leaves.\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/sugarcane-2-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Before sugar cane is harvested, farmers set fire to it to burn away the leaves. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Another way we do it is to straight-out ask people,\" Kling says. How much would they pay to restore a wetland, and bring back wildlife there?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all prices, these are based on personal preferences. Kling says that people tend to put higher values on ecosystems that seem unique, beautiful, original and natural. She hasn't tried to calculate the price that people would put on the ecosystem of the Everglades, and compare it to the grasslands of Colorado, but she suspects that people would consider the Everglades more valuable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologists aren't always happy about these subjective judgments. An ordinary-looking grassland can be just as precious, ecologically speaking, as an alligator-filled swamp. \"The key is not to lose ecosystems,\" says Leonard Scinto, from Florida International University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the way Kling sees it, just talking about the economic value of ecosystems represents real progress. It's evidence that policymakers — and even consumers — are starting to balance the value of food against the environmental cost of producing it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/109101/the-environmental-cost-of-growing-food","authors":["byline_bayareabites_109101"],"categories":["bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_511","bayareabites_15445"],"featImg":"bayareabites_109102","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_107537":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107537","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107537","score":null,"sort":[1457542748000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves","title":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves","publishDate":1457542748,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Bluefin tuna have been severely depleted by fishermen, and the fish have become a globally recognized poster child for the impacts of overfishing. Many chefs refuse to serve its rich, buttery flesh; many retailers no longer carry it; and consumers have become increasingly aware of the environmental costs associated with the bluefin fishery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a group of scientists is now making the case that Atlantic bluefin may be more resilient to fishing than commonly thought — and perhaps better able to rebound from the species' depleted state. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2016/03/04/1525636113.full?sid=a03f6d77-51ee-4209-a5e3-7f43e2f32228\">a paper\u003c/a> published Monday in the journal \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,\u003c/em> the researchers suggest that fishery managers reassess the western Atlantic bluefin's population, which could ultimately allow more of the fish to be caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 10 co-authors, most of whom are scientists with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, say they've all but confirmed that bluefin tuna spawn in an area of the Atlantic Ocean previously suspected but not known to be a breeding ground. Not only that; the tuna spawning in this area off the Atlantic Coast are much younger and smaller than the age and size at which it was previously believed the fish become sexually mature, according to the scientists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, their paper claims, would make the western Atlantic bluefin tuna \"less vulnerable to overexploitation and extinction than is currently estimated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study is controversial. Several tuna researchers we spoke with warned that the results are preliminary, and it's much too soon to use them to guide how fisheries are managed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"New science and new information is good. What one has to be careful of is attempting to manage the Atlantic bluefin population from a single study. The situation is always complex,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/about/experts/amanda-nickson\">Amanda Nickson\u003c/a>, director of global tuna conservation at the Pew Charitable Trusts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologist, author and former tuna fisherman \u003ca href=\"http://safinacenter.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Carl Safina\u003c/a> cautions that the research doesn't change how fishing has already impacted the Atlantic bluefin, which is listed as \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/21860/0\">endangered\u003c/a> by the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List. The U.S. federal government considers the species overfished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this is in fact true, that they're spawning in this area [in addition to the Gulf of Mexico] and it wasn't just a one-year occurrence, it's good to know that the potential for recovery is brighter than we would have thought. But it certainly doesn't mean they were less depleted than they've been,\" Safina tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Duke University research scientist \u003ca href=\"https://nicholas.duke.edu/people/faculty/boustany\" target=\"_blank\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a bluefin expert who was not involved in the study, says the findings should be used cautiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the current population of Atlantic bluefin of reproductive age is indeed larger than once believed, that would mean that, historically, there were a lot more spawning bluefin than once thought, Boustany says. And that means that goals for recovery of the Atlantic bluefin would have to be set at a higher level, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we're trying to rebuild the population within a certain time frame, then we might need to actually reduce the amount of fish we're catching now,\" Boustany explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To produce their results, the researchers behind the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> paper dragged a fine-meshed plankton net through a portion of the coastal North Atlantic known as the Slope Sea in 2013. They captured dozens of bluefin tuna larvae no more than 5 or 6 days old. The site is far from known spawning areas in the Gulf of Mexico. That great distance, coupled with the slow speed of the ocean currents, meant only one thing, explains David Richardson, the study's lead author:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>These young tuna had been born in the immediate vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was very clear these fish had not come from the Gulf of Mexico,\" Richardson, a larval fish biologist with the NOAA's Northeast Fisheries Science Center, tells us. \"It's just too far a distance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richardson and his colleagues have also analyzed the movements of adult bluefin tuna tagged with electronic transmitters by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tunalab.org/aboutus.htm\">Large Pelagics Research Center\u003c/a> at the University of Massachusetts, Boston. The tracking data provided evidence that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>western Atlantic bluefin appear to begin spawning at a much younger age than previously believed, when they're about 5 years old, instead of 14 or 15. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we found in our tagging data is that really big bluefin swim through the Slope Sea really fast, in three or four days, whereas the smaller bluefin — around 100 pounds to 400 or 500 pounds — are staying in the Slope Sea for about a 20-day duration,\" he says. The suspicion, he elaborates, is that younger, smaller tuna are spawning in the Slope Sea. Then, when they become older and bigger, they begin spawning in the Gulf of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is significant, because species that don't reach sexual maturity until they're older are considered especially vulnerable to overfishing. That's because such fish may easily be caught years before they've spawned even once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the western Atlantic bluefin are actually spawning much younger than once believed, that should be factored into population assessments, the study authors argue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lowering the age at maturity will increase estimates of spawning stock biomass and will likely lead to higher estimates\" of how much bluefin can be fished sustainably, their paper says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://woods.stanford.edu/about/woods-faculty/barbara-block\">Barbara Block\u003c/a>, a marine biologist with the Stanford Woods Institute for the Environment, says the study is \"interesting.\" But she says much more evidence is needed — like actually seeing these sexually mature tuna in the Slope Sea — before it can be concluded that Atlantic bluefin are spawning at a younger age and in a new region than believed before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers' conclusions — that perhaps more bluefin can be caught — also have Safina highly skeptical of their study, which he says looks like a ploy by fishery-friendly scientists to create a higher catch allowance for the Atlantic tuna fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email exchange with The Salt, Safina writes, \"[T]heir main concern is not recovery, not conservation, but how their findings can allow additional exploitation and more stress to be inflicted on a very beleaguered creature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"https://www.umb.edu/academics/csm/faculty_staff/molly_lutcavage\">Molly Lutcavage,\u003c/a> a researcher at the University of Massachusetts, Boston and a co-author of the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> study, dismissed Safina as an \"enviro bully\" and an ideologue who ignores the science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can't do good conservation without good science,\" she told us, responding to Safina's comments. In a \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Tuna/environmental-bullies-how-conservation-ideologues-attack-scientists-who-don-t-agree-with-them-8b48e57385bd#.rhak0pwy1\">post\u003c/a> published Tuesday on Medium, she offers a vehement defense of her research. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A study suggests Atlantic bluefin, prized for its buttery flesh, may breed younger, and in more places, than once thought — and it may be time to rethink fishing quotas. Not so fast, critics argue.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1457542748,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1100},"headData":{"title":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves | KQED","description":"A study suggests Atlantic bluefin, prized for its buttery flesh, may breed younger, and in more places, than once thought — and it may be time to rethink fishing quotas. Not so fast, critics argue.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves","datePublished":"2016-03-09T16:59:08.000Z","dateModified":"2016-03-09T16:59:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"107537 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107537","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/09/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves/","disqusTitle":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves","nprImageCredit":"Pablo Blazquez Dominguez","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"469551768","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=469551768&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/08/469551768/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves?ft=nprml&f=469551768","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:41:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:05:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:41:24 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/107537/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Bluefin tuna have been severely depleted by fishermen, and the fish have become a globally recognized poster child for the impacts of overfishing. Many chefs refuse to serve its rich, buttery flesh; many retailers no longer carry it; and consumers have become increasingly aware of the environmental costs associated with the bluefin fishery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a group of scientists is now making the case that Atlantic bluefin may be more resilient to fishing than commonly thought — and perhaps better able to rebound from the species' depleted state. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2016/03/04/1525636113.full?sid=a03f6d77-51ee-4209-a5e3-7f43e2f32228\">a paper\u003c/a> published Monday in the journal \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,\u003c/em> the researchers suggest that fishery managers reassess the western Atlantic bluefin's population, which could ultimately allow more of the fish to be caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 10 co-authors, most of whom are scientists with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, say they've all but confirmed that bluefin tuna spawn in an area of the Atlantic Ocean previously suspected but not known to be a breeding ground. Not only that; the tuna spawning in this area off the Atlantic Coast are much younger and smaller than the age and size at which it was previously believed the fish become sexually mature, according to the scientists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, their paper claims, would make the western Atlantic bluefin tuna \"less vulnerable to overexploitation and extinction than is currently estimated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study is controversial. Several tuna researchers we spoke with warned that the results are preliminary, and it's much too soon to use them to guide how fisheries are managed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"New science and new information is good. What one has to be careful of is attempting to manage the Atlantic bluefin population from a single study. The situation is always complex,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/about/experts/amanda-nickson\">Amanda Nickson\u003c/a>, director of global tuna conservation at the Pew Charitable Trusts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologist, author and former tuna fisherman \u003ca href=\"http://safinacenter.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Carl Safina\u003c/a> cautions that the research doesn't change how fishing has already impacted the Atlantic bluefin, which is listed as \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/21860/0\">endangered\u003c/a> by the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List. The U.S. federal government considers the species overfished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this is in fact true, that they're spawning in this area [in addition to the Gulf of Mexico] and it wasn't just a one-year occurrence, it's good to know that the potential for recovery is brighter than we would have thought. But it certainly doesn't mean they were less depleted than they've been,\" Safina tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Duke University research scientist \u003ca href=\"https://nicholas.duke.edu/people/faculty/boustany\" target=\"_blank\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a bluefin expert who was not involved in the study, says the findings should be used cautiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the current population of Atlantic bluefin of reproductive age is indeed larger than once believed, that would mean that, historically, there were a lot more spawning bluefin than once thought, Boustany says. And that means that goals for recovery of the Atlantic bluefin would have to be set at a higher level, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we're trying to rebuild the population within a certain time frame, then we might need to actually reduce the amount of fish we're catching now,\" Boustany explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To produce their results, the researchers behind the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> paper dragged a fine-meshed plankton net through a portion of the coastal North Atlantic known as the Slope Sea in 2013. They captured dozens of bluefin tuna larvae no more than 5 or 6 days old. The site is far from known spawning areas in the Gulf of Mexico. That great distance, coupled with the slow speed of the ocean currents, meant only one thing, explains David Richardson, the study's lead author:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>These young tuna had been born in the immediate vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was very clear these fish had not come from the Gulf of Mexico,\" Richardson, a larval fish biologist with the NOAA's Northeast Fisheries Science Center, tells us. \"It's just too far a distance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richardson and his colleagues have also analyzed the movements of adult bluefin tuna tagged with electronic transmitters by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tunalab.org/aboutus.htm\">Large Pelagics Research Center\u003c/a> at the University of Massachusetts, Boston. The tracking data provided evidence that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>western Atlantic bluefin appear to begin spawning at a much younger age than previously believed, when they're about 5 years old, instead of 14 or 15. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we found in our tagging data is that really big bluefin swim through the Slope Sea really fast, in three or four days, whereas the smaller bluefin — around 100 pounds to 400 or 500 pounds — are staying in the Slope Sea for about a 20-day duration,\" he says. The suspicion, he elaborates, is that younger, smaller tuna are spawning in the Slope Sea. Then, when they become older and bigger, they begin spawning in the Gulf of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is significant, because species that don't reach sexual maturity until they're older are considered especially vulnerable to overfishing. That's because such fish may easily be caught years before they've spawned even once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the western Atlantic bluefin are actually spawning much younger than once believed, that should be factored into population assessments, the study authors argue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lowering the age at maturity will increase estimates of spawning stock biomass and will likely lead to higher estimates\" of how much bluefin can be fished sustainably, their paper says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://woods.stanford.edu/about/woods-faculty/barbara-block\">Barbara Block\u003c/a>, a marine biologist with the Stanford Woods Institute for the Environment, says the study is \"interesting.\" But she says much more evidence is needed — like actually seeing these sexually mature tuna in the Slope Sea — before it can be concluded that Atlantic bluefin are spawning at a younger age and in a new region than believed before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers' conclusions — that perhaps more bluefin can be caught — also have Safina highly skeptical of their study, which he says looks like a ploy by fishery-friendly scientists to create a higher catch allowance for the Atlantic tuna fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email exchange with The Salt, Safina writes, \"[T]heir main concern is not recovery, not conservation, but how their findings can allow additional exploitation and more stress to be inflicted on a very beleaguered creature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"https://www.umb.edu/academics/csm/faculty_staff/molly_lutcavage\">Molly Lutcavage,\u003c/a> a researcher at the University of Massachusetts, Boston and a co-author of the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> study, dismissed Safina as an \"enviro bully\" and an ideologue who ignores the science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can't do good conservation without good science,\" she told us, responding to Safina's comments. In a \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Tuna/environmental-bullies-how-conservation-ideologues-attack-scientists-who-don-t-agree-with-them-8b48e57385bd#.rhak0pwy1\">post\u003c/a> published Tuesday on Medium, she offers a vehement defense of her research. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107537/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves","authors":["byline_bayareabites_107537"],"categories":["bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_15338","bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_13239","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107538","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_104670":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_104670","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"104670","score":null,"sort":[1449870954000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"to-go-green-bars-try-to-reuse-their-booze","title":"To Go Green, Bars Try To Reuse Their Booze","publishDate":1449870954,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>You probably don't waste a whole lot of wine or booze in your own home. But bars and restaurants throw out alcohol all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The booze, wine and beer left behind in customers' drinks have to be discarded per food safety law, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what about the wine bottles designated for serving by the glass? Those dregs often go right down the drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as the restaurant industry has been waking up to its significant contribution to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/09/16/440825159/its-time-to-get-serious-about-reducing-food-waste-feds-say\">food waste problem\u003c/a> — and coming up with creative solutions — bartenders are realizing they can also turn some of their waste into something useful. It's just one dimension of the new \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/blogs/5-ways-chefs-wage-war-against-waste\">sustainability movement\u003c/a> in the drinking industry that's seeking ways to reduce water use, packaging waste and energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ryan McIlwraith is a chef who co-owns Comstock Saloon in San Francisco. He's also preparing to open a Spanish-themed restaurant called Bellota with partner Jonny Raglin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his new venture, McIlwraith has been investing in used wine barrels and ceramic\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>vinegar crocks with plans to turn leftover alcohol into vinegar. The process involves inoculating wine, beer or other alcoholic drinks with bacteria called acetobacter. They convert the alcohol into acetic acid — what gives vinegar that punchy kick. Eventually he hopes to supply most of his restaurant's needs with a homemade product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_104676\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices. Some can be repurposed for mixers or condiments like marmalade.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-104676\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons.jpg 1400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices. Some can be repurposed for mixers or condiments like marmalade. \u003ccite>(Chiot's Run/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are plenty of other ways to use old wine and cider in Spanish cooking, he says. Both can be used for marinading beef, braising pork, preserving seafood and pickling some vegetables. Raglin says he likes to make vermouth by simmering white wine that has been opened for too long with herbs and caramel and fortifying with brandy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of this will be a learning process for us, but there are a lot of ideas to play with for how to use up our alcohol without throwing it away,\" McIlwraith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco seems to be emerging as a hub for sustainability innovation at bars. \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/\">The Perennial\u003c/a> is a restaurant and bar slated to open there in January that's partnering with the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerofoodprint.org/\">ZeroFoodprint\u003c/a> to lower its greenhouse gas emissions and use as little water and generate as little waste as possible. According to beverage director Jennifer Colliau, one of the biggest problems in the liquor industry are laws that prohibit the use of bottles larger than 1.75 liters and prohibit distilleries from reusing bottles that have been used before. So, more bottles are used, and often they are thrown in the trash. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Buying spirits in kegs would be an easy system that has been working for years in other industries,\" she says. (Kegs are one reason bars usually have very little leftover beer — they get tapped until they're empty.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> To use less water than standard bars, Colliau says The Perennial will chill cocktails in the fridge instead of shaking them in ice and discarding the ice. She says unused fresh citrus juices will be used to make sherbet. (A lot of bars typically throw out the juice they don't use.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drinking establishments elsewhere in the country are also trying to curb their waste both to cut their costs and to lower their environmental impact. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.damnfinedrinks.com/\">Sportsman's Club\u003c/a> in Chicago combines leftover aperitifs, liqueurs and spirits into amaro liqueur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.stlouisarch.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/REDBar.html\">RED Bar\u003c/a>, at the St. Louis Hyatt Regency hotel, leftover wine is blended and steeped with fruit, then served as sangria, according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodfanatics.com/business/getting-rid-of-liquor-at-bars\">US Foods blog post\u003c/a>. (Most sangria is made with fresh bottles of wine.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Concern about waste is driving other forms of innovation in the drinks industry, according to Chad Arnholt, co-founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://tinroofdrinkcommunity.com/\">Tin Roof Drink Community\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based sustainability consulting firm for bars that's working with The Perennial, among other establishments. \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices, according to Arnholt, who also tends bar at San Francisco's Comstock Saloon. They can be composted, or sometimes repurposed for making bitters. That's also true for other cocktail ingredients like gum syrup, sour mix and fruit-flavored syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such homemade products are primarily creative pursuits, Arnholt says. However, bypassing commercial suppliers and the packaging waste and transport miles associated with them is an added environmental benefit, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arnholt says he's also seeing better communication between restaurants' bars and kitchens. Whereas the bar may once have juiced a fruit — say, a melon — and discarded the pulp, chefs are increasingly making use of such edible byproducts, he says, turning them into sorbets and other desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.trenchermen.com/\">Trenchermen\u003c/a>, in Chicago, citrus rinds from both kitchen and bar are turned into marmalade, chef Patrick Sheerin tells The Salt by email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arnholt notes that several nights ago at Comstock, as he was finishing a bartending shift, the restaurant's chef brought him a jar containing brine from pickled pears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He said, 'Hey, maybe you can make me a cocktail with this,' \" Arnholt says. \"I said, 'Why not?' I mean, you're saving money, you're reusing ingredients and it's good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bartenders are finding novel ways to reuse leftover wine and spent ingredients from cocktail-making. It's just one part of a nascent movement toward sustainability in the industry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1449870954,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":901},"headData":{"title":"To Go Green, Bars Try To Reuse Their Booze | KQED","description":"Bartenders are finding novel ways to reuse leftover wine and spent ingredients from cocktail-making. It's just one part of a nascent movement toward sustainability in the industry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"To Go Green, Bars Try To Reuse Their Booze","datePublished":"2015-12-11T21:55:54.000Z","dateModified":"2015-12-11T21:55:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"104670 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=104670","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/12/11/to-go-green-bars-try-to-reuse-their-booze/","disqusTitle":"To Go Green, Bars Try To Reuse Their Booze","source":"Sustainability, Food Waste","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/sustainability/","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Bastien Deceuninck/Flickr","nprStoryId":"459211509","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=459211509&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/12/11/459211509/to-go-green-bars-try-to-reuse-their-booze?ft=nprml&f=459211509","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 11 Dec 2015 14:57:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 11 Dec 2015 14:24:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 11 Dec 2015 14:57:47 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/104670/to-go-green-bars-try-to-reuse-their-booze","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You probably don't waste a whole lot of wine or booze in your own home. But bars and restaurants throw out alcohol all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The booze, wine and beer left behind in customers' drinks have to be discarded per food safety law, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what about the wine bottles designated for serving by the glass? Those dregs often go right down the drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as the restaurant industry has been waking up to its significant contribution to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/09/16/440825159/its-time-to-get-serious-about-reducing-food-waste-feds-say\">food waste problem\u003c/a> — and coming up with creative solutions — bartenders are realizing they can also turn some of their waste into something useful. It's just one dimension of the new \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/blogs/5-ways-chefs-wage-war-against-waste\">sustainability movement\u003c/a> in the drinking industry that's seeking ways to reduce water use, packaging waste and energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ryan McIlwraith is a chef who co-owns Comstock Saloon in San Francisco. He's also preparing to open a Spanish-themed restaurant called Bellota with partner Jonny Raglin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his new venture, McIlwraith has been investing in used wine barrels and ceramic\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>vinegar crocks with plans to turn leftover alcohol into vinegar. The process involves inoculating wine, beer or other alcoholic drinks with bacteria called acetobacter. They convert the alcohol into acetic acid — what gives vinegar that punchy kick. Eventually he hopes to supply most of his restaurant's needs with a homemade product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_104676\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices. Some can be repurposed for mixers or condiments like marmalade.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-104676\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/12/lemons.jpg 1400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices. Some can be repurposed for mixers or condiments like marmalade. \u003ccite>(Chiot's Run/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are plenty of other ways to use old wine and cider in Spanish cooking, he says. Both can be used for marinading beef, braising pork, preserving seafood and pickling some vegetables. Raglin says he likes to make vermouth by simmering white wine that has been opened for too long with herbs and caramel and fortifying with brandy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of this will be a learning process for us, but there are a lot of ideas to play with for how to use up our alcohol without throwing it away,\" McIlwraith says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco seems to be emerging as a hub for sustainability innovation at bars. \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/\">The Perennial\u003c/a> is a restaurant and bar slated to open there in January that's partnering with the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerofoodprint.org/\">ZeroFoodprint\u003c/a> to lower its greenhouse gas emissions and use as little water and generate as little waste as possible. According to beverage director Jennifer Colliau, one of the biggest problems in the liquor industry are laws that prohibit the use of bottles larger than 1.75 liters and prohibit distilleries from reusing bottles that have been used before. So, more bottles are used, and often they are thrown in the trash. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Buying spirits in kegs would be an easy system that has been working for years in other industries,\" she says. (Kegs are one reason bars usually have very little leftover beer — they get tapped until they're empty.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> To use less water than standard bars, Colliau says The Perennial will chill cocktails in the fridge instead of shaking them in ice and discarding the ice. She says unused fresh citrus juices will be used to make sherbet. (A lot of bars typically throw out the juice they don't use.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drinking establishments elsewhere in the country are also trying to curb their waste both to cut their costs and to lower their environmental impact. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.damnfinedrinks.com/\">Sportsman's Club\u003c/a> in Chicago combines leftover aperitifs, liqueurs and spirits into amaro liqueur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.stlouisarch.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/REDBar.html\">RED Bar\u003c/a>, at the St. Louis Hyatt Regency hotel, leftover wine is blended and steeped with fruit, then served as sangria, according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodfanatics.com/business/getting-rid-of-liquor-at-bars\">US Foods blog post\u003c/a>. (Most sangria is made with fresh bottles of wine.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Concern about waste is driving other forms of innovation in the drinks industry, according to Chad Arnholt, co-founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://tinroofdrinkcommunity.com/\">Tin Roof Drink Community\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based sustainability consulting firm for bars that's working with The Perennial, among other establishments. \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making craft cocktails can generate heaps of fruit rinds, spent flavorings and spices, according to Arnholt, who also tends bar at San Francisco's Comstock Saloon. They can be composted, or sometimes repurposed for making bitters. That's also true for other cocktail ingredients like gum syrup, sour mix and fruit-flavored syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such homemade products are primarily creative pursuits, Arnholt says. However, bypassing commercial suppliers and the packaging waste and transport miles associated with them is an added environmental benefit, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arnholt says he's also seeing better communication between restaurants' bars and kitchens. Whereas the bar may once have juiced a fruit — say, a melon — and discarded the pulp, chefs are increasingly making use of such edible byproducts, he says, turning them into sorbets and other desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.trenchermen.com/\">Trenchermen\u003c/a>, in Chicago, citrus rinds from both kitchen and bar are turned into marmalade, chef Patrick Sheerin tells The Salt by email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arnholt notes that several nights ago at Comstock, as he was finishing a bartending shift, the restaurant's chef brought him a jar containing brine from pickled pears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He said, 'Hey, maybe you can make me a cocktail with this,' \" Arnholt says. \"I said, 'Why not?' I mean, you're saving money, you're reusing ingredients and it's good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/104670/to-go-green-bars-try-to-reuse-their-booze","authors":["byline_bayareabites_104670"],"categories":["bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_8359","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_3707","bayareabites_14742","bayareabites_14748"],"featImg":"bayareabites_104671","label":"source_bayareabites_104670"},"bayareabites_93934":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_93934","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"93934","score":null,"sort":[1426379982000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution","title":"Masumoto Farm: The Family Peach Farm That Became A Symbol Of The Food Revolution","publishDate":1426379982,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1780px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93935\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg\" alt='Mas Masumoto grew up on his family farm in southeast of Fresno, Calif. His 1987 essay \"Epitaph for A Peach,\" in which he bemoaned the loss of heirloom flavors, captured his changing philosophy as a farmer. It also helped turn his farm into a landmark in the local-food movement. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR ' width=\"1780\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg 1780w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-1440x1078.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1780px) 100vw, 1780px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mas Masumoto grew up on his family farm in southeast of Fresno, Calif. His 1987 essay \"Epitaph for A Peach,\" in which he bemoaned the loss of heirloom flavors, captured his changing philosophy as a farmer. It also helped turn his farm into a landmark in the local-food movement. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/14/390148229/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of California's Central Valley, a vast expanse of orchards, vineyards, and vegetable fields, lies a small collection of aging peach trees. Farmer Mas Masumoto's decision to preserve those trees, and then to write about it, became a symbol of resistance to machine-driven food production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet the Masumoto farm's story isn't just one of saving peaches. It's become a father-daughter saga of claiming, abandoning, and then re-claiming a piece of America's agricultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto, now 61, grew up on that farm, which lies just southeast of Fresno. His parents bought it after their release from internment camps where the U.S. government imprisoned Japanese-Americans during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At that time, a substantial Japanese-American community lived here. But the community dwindled as Mas's generation went off to college. The Central Valley, with its dusty landscape of vineyards and orchards, has long been considered a cultural backwater that ambitious people hope to leave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto left, too --- he studied sociology at the University of California, Berkeley, and traveled in Japan — but he was one of the few who returned to the family farm. He met his wife, Marcy, and they had two children. Their daughter, Nikiko, is the oldest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1987, this farm reached a turning point: Big peach buyers no longer wanted its peaches — a variety called Suncrest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was an old heirloom variety that didn't have the right cosmetics for the marketplace,\" Masumoto recalls. \"It didn't get lipstick-red when it was ripe. It didn't have the shelf life that the market was demanding. So it had become blacklisted. We had 2,000 20-pound boxes of it in cold storage with no buyers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were losing thousands of dollars on those peaches. So Masumoto did two things. He scheduled a bulldozer to tear out those obsolete trees, and he sat down at his typewriter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93936\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93936\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg\" alt=\"Nikiko Masumoto, her father, Mas, and her mother, Marcy, inspect one of the old Suncrest peach trees that Mas almost destroyed in 1987. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-1440x962.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-320x214.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nikiko Masumoto, her father, Mas, and her mother, Marcy, inspect one of the old Suncrest peach trees that Mas almost destroyed in 1987. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He wrote an \u003ca href=\"http://articles.latimes.com/1987-08-16/opinion/op-1656_1_sun-crest-peach\">essay\u003c/a> called \"Epitaph for a Peach,\" a sad hymn of praise for the kind of peach that \"tasted great, like a peach is supposed to.\" He described how the nectar of this peach \"exploded in your mouth and tickled you with the message, 'aaah, \u003cem>this \u003c/em>is a peach!' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It hurts,\" he wrote, to see \"flavor lost along with meaning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He mailed the essay to the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>, which published it. Then letters started to arrive at the Masumoto farm. \"Keep this peach!\" the letters told him. \"It's worth it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He showed them to his wife, Marcy. \"I said, 'What's more important, $20,000 or 20 letters?' \" he says. \"She looked at me and rolled her eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm thinking, Marcy, keep the day job!\" Marcy Masumoto says, laughing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is an important, practical, part of the story. Marcy's jobs — at a hospital in Fresno, and then at Fresno State University — gave Mas the courage to take risks with the farm. For instance, on that day when the man showed up to uproot the Suncrest peach trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He's the classic image of a guy who drives a bulldozer, cigar out of his mouth, and he says, 'OK, where's your field to yank out?' \" Masumoto recalls. \"And I said, 'You know, I think I might keep it.' And he barks at me, 'Well, it's going to cost you extra for me to come out later. You sure?' And I said, 'Yeah, I think I'll keep this.' And that was the turning point.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a turning point, both practically and philosophically. It put Masumoto in touch with what he calls \"the food world\" — a world of people who really cared about flavor and how their food was grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That food world was just starting to explode through the 1980s and, of course, the 1990s, and that's exactly where this peach variety fit, in this new world of food,\" Masumoto says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started farming organically. He got in touch with farmers markets in places like San Francisco and Berkeley — places that are far away, in every sense, from the big farm operations of the Central Valley. Through those contacts, he met the chef and food activist Alice Waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was so eloquent, and I knew that I needed to taste his peaches,\" says Waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters started serving those peaches at her landmark restaurant, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, and she sang the praises of the farmer who saved his heirloom orchard. \"I have always wanted to support the people who are taking care of the land, and it's that personal story that connects the food to the people who come and eat here,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story spread. In 1996, Masumoto published a book-length meditation on farming, also called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Epitaph-Peach-Four-Seasons-Family/dp/0062510258\">Epitaph for a Peach\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm became a landmark in the local-food movement. People sought out his fruit, and the farm thrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may sound like the end of the story, but it's not, because a new generation is about to take on this legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto's daughter, Nikiko, never thought this farm was anything special. For her, it was just part of growing up in the Central Valley, a place that she expected to see, pretty quickly, in her rear-view mirror. \"It's very common in rural schools that 'success' is defined as going away and not coming back,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So off she went to the University of California, Berkeley. She loved it. \"I was off in my land of gender and women's studies, feminist theory, really wild and political ideas, and I decided to take an environmental studies class,\" she recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day, in that class, a visiting speaker laid out the environmental impact of food production, how farming defeated nature with plows and pesticides. And it dawned on her that her parents, planting cover crops and wildflowers in their organic orchard, were actually doing something important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That thought was followed by another one: The most radical thing that she could possibly do would be to go home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My sealing of the deal was, on my 21st birthday, I gave myself the gift of a peach tattoo,\" she says. \"And I think that's when my parents realized — oh, she's serious about coming back to the farm!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It did not go entirely smoothly, though. The work was hard, and working with family was even harder. Nikiko took a break and went to grad school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93937\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg\" alt=\"Some grape vines on the Masumoto farm are almost a hundred years old. Mas Masumoto's father purchased the farm after World War II, but he says it's possible that his grandparents, who were itinerant immigrant farmworkers, worked on this farm and pruned those vines. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some grape vines on the Masumoto farm are almost a hundred years old. Mas Masumoto's father purchased the farm after World War II, but he says it's possible that his grandparents, who were itinerant immigrant farmworkers, worked on this farm and pruned those vines. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But then she was drawn back, for a second time, by something more personal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her father's father, who'd come here from the internment camp to buy this land, was dying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I flew home from Texas, and my plane landed early,\" she says, with a catch in her throat. \"My mom picked me up, and I went home to our house, which is now my house, and he passed away in our living room, in the farm house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nikiko Masumoto thought about her grandfather's choice, in difficult circumstances, to settle here. \"I mean, that strength, and his power to claim this place in America, in a country that had just very clearly told him and all of us that we don't belong. For him to stake a place here, it's almost a legacy that I can't turn away from. I \u003cem>have\u003c/em> to be here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nikiko Masumoto moved into the old farmhouse where her grandparents had lived. That was four years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's a singular figure among farmers in the Central Valley: young, female and Japanese-American. But, she says, she's come back to the farm \"for good.\" Gradually, she'll take over the farm. The process of learning how to work with this land, and these trees, is only just beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And those Suncrest peach trees? Some of them still remain. They're old and gnarled and weather-beaten, but Mas Masumoto finds them beautiful. \"In one sense, they saved the farm,\" he says. \"But they really saved the soul of the farm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Heirloom peach trees, and an essay about them, turned one California farm into a landmark of local food. It's now the scene of another unconventional choice: a daughter's return to take the helm.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1580362908,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":1489},"headData":{"title":"Masumoto Farm: The Family Peach Farm That Became A Symbol Of The Food Revolution | KQED","description":"Heirloom peach trees, and an essay about them, turned one California farm into a landmark of local food. It's now the scene of another unconventional choice: a daughter's return to take the helm.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Masumoto Farm: The Family Peach Farm That Became A Symbol Of The Food Revolution","datePublished":"2015-03-15T00:39:42.000Z","dateModified":"2020-01-30T05:41:48.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"93934 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=93934","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/14/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution/","disqusTitle":"Masumoto Farm: The Family Peach Farm That Became A Symbol Of The Food Revolution","nprByline":"Dan Charles","nprStoryId":"390148229","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=390148229&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/14/390148229/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution?ft=nprml&f=390148229","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:20:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sat, 14 Mar 2015 07:35:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sat, 14 Mar 2015 10:46:39 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2015/03/20150314_wesat_the_family_peach_farm_that_became_a_symbol_of_the_food_revolution.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&e=390148229&d=433&ft=nprml&f=390148229","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1392956037-7ea60b.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&e=390148229&d=433&ft=nprml&f=390148229","audioTrackLength":433,"path":"/bayareabites/93934/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2015/03/20150314_wesat_the_family_peach_farm_that_became_a_symbol_of_the_food_revolution.mp3","audioDuration":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1780px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93935\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg\" alt='Mas Masumoto grew up on his family farm in southeast of Fresno, Calif. His 1987 essay \"Epitaph for A Peach,\" in which he bemoaned the loss of heirloom flavors, captured his changing philosophy as a farmer. It also helped turn his farm into a landmark in the local-food movement. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR ' width=\"1780\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a.jpg 1780w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-1440x1078.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-1-5f80b1004aebd4c7c18d79bc371d9e43ea25374a-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1780px) 100vw, 1780px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mas Masumoto grew up on his family farm in southeast of Fresno, Calif. His 1987 essay \"Epitaph for A Peach,\" in which he bemoaned the loss of heirloom flavors, captured his changing philosophy as a farmer. It also helped turn his farm into a landmark in the local-food movement. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/14/390148229/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of California's Central Valley, a vast expanse of orchards, vineyards, and vegetable fields, lies a small collection of aging peach trees. Farmer Mas Masumoto's decision to preserve those trees, and then to write about it, became a symbol of resistance to machine-driven food production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet the Masumoto farm's story isn't just one of saving peaches. It's become a father-daughter saga of claiming, abandoning, and then re-claiming a piece of America's agricultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto, now 61, grew up on that farm, which lies just southeast of Fresno. His parents bought it after their release from internment camps where the U.S. government imprisoned Japanese-Americans during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At that time, a substantial Japanese-American community lived here. But the community dwindled as Mas's generation went off to college. The Central Valley, with its dusty landscape of vineyards and orchards, has long been considered a cultural backwater that ambitious people hope to leave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto left, too --- he studied sociology at the University of California, Berkeley, and traveled in Japan — but he was one of the few who returned to the family farm. He met his wife, Marcy, and they had two children. Their daughter, Nikiko, is the oldest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1987, this farm reached a turning point: Big peach buyers no longer wanted its peaches — a variety called Suncrest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was an old heirloom variety that didn't have the right cosmetics for the marketplace,\" Masumoto recalls. \"It didn't get lipstick-red when it was ripe. It didn't have the shelf life that the market was demanding. So it had become blacklisted. We had 2,000 20-pound boxes of it in cold storage with no buyers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were losing thousands of dollars on those peaches. So Masumoto did two things. He scheduled a bulldozer to tear out those obsolete trees, and he sat down at his typewriter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93936\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93936\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg\" alt=\"Nikiko Masumoto, her father, Mas, and her mother, Marcy, inspect one of the old Suncrest peach trees that Mas almost destroyed in 1987. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-1440x962.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-3_enl-def64406a1febda5b619f20ef298a8dd329cfc88-e1426379711460-320x214.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nikiko Masumoto, her father, Mas, and her mother, Marcy, inspect one of the old Suncrest peach trees that Mas almost destroyed in 1987. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He wrote an \u003ca href=\"http://articles.latimes.com/1987-08-16/opinion/op-1656_1_sun-crest-peach\">essay\u003c/a> called \"Epitaph for a Peach,\" a sad hymn of praise for the kind of peach that \"tasted great, like a peach is supposed to.\" He described how the nectar of this peach \"exploded in your mouth and tickled you with the message, 'aaah, \u003cem>this \u003c/em>is a peach!' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It hurts,\" he wrote, to see \"flavor lost along with meaning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He mailed the essay to the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>, which published it. Then letters started to arrive at the Masumoto farm. \"Keep this peach!\" the letters told him. \"It's worth it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He showed them to his wife, Marcy. \"I said, 'What's more important, $20,000 or 20 letters?' \" he says. \"She looked at me and rolled her eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm thinking, Marcy, keep the day job!\" Marcy Masumoto says, laughing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is an important, practical, part of the story. Marcy's jobs — at a hospital in Fresno, and then at Fresno State University — gave Mas the courage to take risks with the farm. For instance, on that day when the man showed up to uproot the Suncrest peach trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He's the classic image of a guy who drives a bulldozer, cigar out of his mouth, and he says, 'OK, where's your field to yank out?' \" Masumoto recalls. \"And I said, 'You know, I think I might keep it.' And he barks at me, 'Well, it's going to cost you extra for me to come out later. You sure?' And I said, 'Yeah, I think I'll keep this.' And that was the turning point.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a turning point, both practically and philosophically. It put Masumoto in touch with what he calls \"the food world\" — a world of people who really cared about flavor and how their food was grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That food world was just starting to explode through the 1980s and, of course, the 1990s, and that's exactly where this peach variety fit, in this new world of food,\" Masumoto says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started farming organically. He got in touch with farmers markets in places like San Francisco and Berkeley — places that are far away, in every sense, from the big farm operations of the Central Valley. Through those contacts, he met the chef and food activist Alice Waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was so eloquent, and I knew that I needed to taste his peaches,\" says Waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters started serving those peaches at her landmark restaurant, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, and she sang the praises of the farmer who saved his heirloom orchard. \"I have always wanted to support the people who are taking care of the land, and it's that personal story that connects the food to the people who come and eat here,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story spread. In 1996, Masumoto published a book-length meditation on farming, also called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Epitaph-Peach-Four-Seasons-Family/dp/0062510258\">Epitaph for a Peach\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm became a landmark in the local-food movement. People sought out his fruit, and the farm thrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may sound like the end of the story, but it's not, because a new generation is about to take on this legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mas Masumoto's daughter, Nikiko, never thought this farm was anything special. For her, it was just part of growing up in the Central Valley, a place that she expected to see, pretty quickly, in her rear-view mirror. \"It's very common in rural schools that 'success' is defined as going away and not coming back,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So off she went to the University of California, Berkeley. She loved it. \"I was off in my land of gender and women's studies, feminist theory, really wild and political ideas, and I decided to take an environmental studies class,\" she recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day, in that class, a visiting speaker laid out the environmental impact of food production, how farming defeated nature with plows and pesticides. And it dawned on her that her parents, planting cover crops and wildflowers in their organic orchard, were actually doing something important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That thought was followed by another one: The most radical thing that she could possibly do would be to go home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My sealing of the deal was, on my 21st birthday, I gave myself the gift of a peach tattoo,\" she says. \"And I think that's when my parents realized — oh, she's serious about coming back to the farm!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It did not go entirely smoothly, though. The work was hard, and working with family was even harder. Nikiko took a break and went to grad school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93937\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg\" alt=\"Some grape vines on the Masumoto farm are almost a hundred years old. Mas Masumoto's father purchased the farm after World War II, but he says it's possible that his grandparents, who were itinerant immigrant farmworkers, worked on this farm and pruned those vines. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/peach-2_enl-c360172fb0126b511dc95d7c474fd00f0d96749f-e1426379840855-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some grape vines on the Masumoto farm are almost a hundred years old. Mas Masumoto's father purchased the farm after World War II, but he says it's possible that his grandparents, who were itinerant immigrant farmworkers, worked on this farm and pruned those vines. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But then she was drawn back, for a second time, by something more personal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her father's father, who'd come here from the internment camp to buy this land, was dying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I flew home from Texas, and my plane landed early,\" she says, with a catch in her throat. \"My mom picked me up, and I went home to our house, which is now my house, and he passed away in our living room, in the farm house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nikiko Masumoto thought about her grandfather's choice, in difficult circumstances, to settle here. \"I mean, that strength, and his power to claim this place in America, in a country that had just very clearly told him and all of us that we don't belong. For him to stake a place here, it's almost a legacy that I can't turn away from. I \u003cem>have\u003c/em> to be here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nikiko Masumoto moved into the old farmhouse where her grandparents had lived. That was four years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's a singular figure among farmers in the Central Valley: young, female and Japanese-American. But, she says, she's come back to the farm \"for good.\" Gradually, she'll take over the farm. The process of learning how to work with this land, and these trees, is only just beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And those Suncrest peach trees? Some of them still remain. They're old and gnarled and weather-beaten, but Mas Masumoto finds them beautiful. \"In one sense, they saved the farm,\" he says. \"But they really saved the soul of the farm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/93934/the-family-peach-farm-that-became-a-symbol-of-the-food-revolution","authors":["byline_bayareabites_93934"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_129","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_2267","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93935","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_89366":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_89366","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"89366","score":null,"sort":[1414707064000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means","title":"Apps Aim To Guide You On 'Sustainable Food' (Whatever That Means)","publishDate":1414707064,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/food_wide-8d844d1b7ff78eb3e68f88afbfc6065d0f06e781-e1414706933570.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/food_wide-8d844d1b7ff78eb3e68f88afbfc6065d0f06e781-e1414706933570.jpg\" alt=\"Confused about all the different sustainability ratings out there? The simplest option may be to shop at your local farmer's market. iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89367\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Confused about all the different sustainability ratings out there? The simplest option may be to shop at your local farmer's market. iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Alison Bruzek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/30/354137536/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/30/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're reading The Salt, it probably comes as no surprise to you that consumers increasingly want to make food choices based on not just their health, but their ethics. A growing number of groups are coming up with technological solutions to help them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, the Environmental Working Group rolled out a food ratings \u003ca href=\"http://www.ewg.org/foodscores\">database\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ewg-food-scores/id930172079?ls=1&mt=8\">app\u003c/a>, which, while focused on nutrition, also rate products on issues like organic certification, animal welfare standards and environmental contaminants. Others in this space include \u003ca href=\"http://howgood.com/p/ratings/\">HowGood\u003c/a>, an app that rates food products on 60 indicators of sustainability, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodguide.com/about/ratings\">Good Guide\u003c/a>, a tool that rates food and other products on safety, health and ethics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These all work a little differently. Some use ratings based on numerical scales; others use labels like \"good\" versus \"great.\" But they all must sort through reams of data to get to those ratings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this is where the biggest challenge lies — not in the technical realm, but in the semantics: How do you define sustainability? Which data do you choose? Sustainability is encompassed by so many data points that it's become a big data project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The difficulty is you can never define it,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://csanr.wsu.edu/people/chuck-benbrook/\">Chuck Benbrook\u003c/a>, leader of the Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural Resources at Washington State University. That's because our understanding changes as we learn more about the issues that affect food production. Sustainability, he says, is \"a journey, not a destination.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word \"sustainability\" also means different things to different companies, depending in part on what customer think is most important. Each of these rating systems includes a mix of natural resource conservation, the health of the farm ecology, labor, public health, nutrition and safety. But not every ratings system includes everything from each of these dimensions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, take HowGood, an app that rates more than 100,000 food products based on what the food is and its brand's sustainability. HowGood grabs information from groups including Fair Trade USA, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration, monitoring business practices, legal cases and the food system where the products come from. The 60 indicators HowGood looks at include a company's behavior, the origins of ingredients, and the manufacturing process. HowGood's team of data analysts then crunches the data in an algorithm so people can fire up the app to find out if the milk they want to buy is Good, Very Good, or Great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are essentially a big data aggregator,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/agillett\">Alexander Gillett\u003c/a>, CEO of HowGood. \"What we're doing is we're gathering all the available information that's out there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the new Environmental Working Group database rates foods on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the best product, based on nutrition, ingredients and how processed a food item is. Good Guide also scores products on a scale of 1 to 10 — but with 10 being the best. Good Guide looks at the product's ingredients, its environmental impact and the company's attention to labor rights and helping its community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, grocers are getting into the sustainability ratings game, too. Earlier this month, Whole Foods Market began implementing a new sustainability ratings \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/responsibly-grown\">program\u003c/a> for its fruits, vegetables and flowers. The program, which affixes \"Responsibly Grown\" labels to products that pass muster, evaluates factors such as how well the farmers are treated, whether pesticides are used, how land and water are conserved and whether waste is properly disposed of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another potential pitfall: The standards used to assess the sustainability of a big company that produces a given food product, like Coca-Cola or Kraft, can sometimes be too simple, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.coa.edu/faculty_7.htm\">Molly Anderson\u003c/a>, professor of food and sustainable agriculture systems at the College of the Atlantic. Ratings systems may merely look at whether these companies have a vice president of sustainability or a mechanism for laborers to raise a grievance, she says, but those criteria don't say much about how the company actually acts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and there's one other major hurdle that sustainability ratings apps face: getting consumers to care. Fair Trade USA says according to a study it conducted in 2013, only 16 percent of U.S. households claimed they purchased fair trade products in the past three months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think most of these [sustainability] apps are commercially viable,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/pub/bill-pease/0/828/381\">Bill Pease\u003c/a>, chief scientist at GoodGuide. \"We give ours away for free. We do it essentially as a public service.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the fact that there's so many apps and standards out there, he says, may leave consumers feeling overwhelmed, and more likely to just give up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are groups working to make it simpler by creating a universal sustainability standard – one as easy to understand as seeing a USDA-certified organic sticker on an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One possibility is the government will recognize that [it needs] to be setting those standards,\" says Anderson. \"The other possibility is that the industry will consolidate around standards that they feel work for them and basically impose them on producers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On that front, there are panels of experts working on creating across-the-board sustainability standards for companies to follow, like Leonardo Academy's \u003ca href=\"http://www.leonardoacademy.org/images/stories/leo-4000_draft-for-public-comment.pdf\">National Sustainable Agriculture Standard\u003c/a>, published last November. But even if you can get academics and industry to agree on a definition of sustainability, the process is pricey: Anderson guesses it will take a million dollars just to develop and publicize it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, what's a consumer to do? For now, the simplest answer may be the best, says Anderson: You don't need an app or a rating if you buy local. \"Know your farmer, know your producer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alison Bruzek is an intern for NPR's science desk.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Consumers who care about how their food is produced have a growing number of apps they can turn to at the supermarket. The problem? Nailing down just what sustainability means when it comes to food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1414707064,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":999},"headData":{"title":"Apps Aim To Guide You On 'Sustainable Food' (Whatever That Means) | KQED","description":"Consumers who care about how their food is produced have a growing number of apps they can turn to at the supermarket. The problem? Nailing down just what sustainability means when it comes to food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Apps Aim To Guide You On 'Sustainable Food' (Whatever That Means)","datePublished":"2014-10-30T22:11:04.000Z","dateModified":"2014-10-30T22:11:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"89366 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=89366","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/10/30/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means/","disqusTitle":"Apps Aim To Guide You On 'Sustainable Food' (Whatever That Means)","nprByline":"Alison Bruzek","nprStoryId":"354137536","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=354137536&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/30/354137536/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means?ft=3&f=354137536","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:04:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:04:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:04:40 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/89366/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/food_wide-8d844d1b7ff78eb3e68f88afbfc6065d0f06e781-e1414706933570.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/food_wide-8d844d1b7ff78eb3e68f88afbfc6065d0f06e781-e1414706933570.jpg\" alt=\"Confused about all the different sustainability ratings out there? The simplest option may be to shop at your local farmer's market. iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89367\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Confused about all the different sustainability ratings out there? The simplest option may be to shop at your local farmer's market. iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Alison Bruzek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/30/354137536/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/30/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're reading The Salt, it probably comes as no surprise to you that consumers increasingly want to make food choices based on not just their health, but their ethics. A growing number of groups are coming up with technological solutions to help them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, the Environmental Working Group rolled out a food ratings \u003ca href=\"http://www.ewg.org/foodscores\">database\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ewg-food-scores/id930172079?ls=1&mt=8\">app\u003c/a>, which, while focused on nutrition, also rate products on issues like organic certification, animal welfare standards and environmental contaminants. Others in this space include \u003ca href=\"http://howgood.com/p/ratings/\">HowGood\u003c/a>, an app that rates food products on 60 indicators of sustainability, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodguide.com/about/ratings\">Good Guide\u003c/a>, a tool that rates food and other products on safety, health and ethics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These all work a little differently. Some use ratings based on numerical scales; others use labels like \"good\" versus \"great.\" But they all must sort through reams of data to get to those ratings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this is where the biggest challenge lies — not in the technical realm, but in the semantics: How do you define sustainability? Which data do you choose? Sustainability is encompassed by so many data points that it's become a big data project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The difficulty is you can never define it,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://csanr.wsu.edu/people/chuck-benbrook/\">Chuck Benbrook\u003c/a>, leader of the Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural Resources at Washington State University. That's because our understanding changes as we learn more about the issues that affect food production. Sustainability, he says, is \"a journey, not a destination.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word \"sustainability\" also means different things to different companies, depending in part on what customer think is most important. Each of these rating systems includes a mix of natural resource conservation, the health of the farm ecology, labor, public health, nutrition and safety. But not every ratings system includes everything from each of these dimensions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, take HowGood, an app that rates more than 100,000 food products based on what the food is and its brand's sustainability. HowGood grabs information from groups including Fair Trade USA, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration, monitoring business practices, legal cases and the food system where the products come from. The 60 indicators HowGood looks at include a company's behavior, the origins of ingredients, and the manufacturing process. HowGood's team of data analysts then crunches the data in an algorithm so people can fire up the app to find out if the milk they want to buy is Good, Very Good, or Great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are essentially a big data aggregator,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/agillett\">Alexander Gillett\u003c/a>, CEO of HowGood. \"What we're doing is we're gathering all the available information that's out there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the new Environmental Working Group database rates foods on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the best product, based on nutrition, ingredients and how processed a food item is. Good Guide also scores products on a scale of 1 to 10 — but with 10 being the best. Good Guide looks at the product's ingredients, its environmental impact and the company's attention to labor rights and helping its community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, grocers are getting into the sustainability ratings game, too. Earlier this month, Whole Foods Market began implementing a new sustainability ratings \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/responsibly-grown\">program\u003c/a> for its fruits, vegetables and flowers. The program, which affixes \"Responsibly Grown\" labels to products that pass muster, evaluates factors such as how well the farmers are treated, whether pesticides are used, how land and water are conserved and whether waste is properly disposed of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another potential pitfall: The standards used to assess the sustainability of a big company that produces a given food product, like Coca-Cola or Kraft, can sometimes be too simple, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.coa.edu/faculty_7.htm\">Molly Anderson\u003c/a>, professor of food and sustainable agriculture systems at the College of the Atlantic. Ratings systems may merely look at whether these companies have a vice president of sustainability or a mechanism for laborers to raise a grievance, she says, but those criteria don't say much about how the company actually acts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and there's one other major hurdle that sustainability ratings apps face: getting consumers to care. Fair Trade USA says according to a study it conducted in 2013, only 16 percent of U.S. households claimed they purchased fair trade products in the past three months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think most of these [sustainability] apps are commercially viable,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/pub/bill-pease/0/828/381\">Bill Pease\u003c/a>, chief scientist at GoodGuide. \"We give ours away for free. We do it essentially as a public service.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the fact that there's so many apps and standards out there, he says, may leave consumers feeling overwhelmed, and more likely to just give up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are groups working to make it simpler by creating a universal sustainability standard – one as easy to understand as seeing a USDA-certified organic sticker on an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One possibility is the government will recognize that [it needs] to be setting those standards,\" says Anderson. \"The other possibility is that the industry will consolidate around standards that they feel work for them and basically impose them on producers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On that front, there are panels of experts working on creating across-the-board sustainability standards for companies to follow, like Leonardo Academy's \u003ca href=\"http://www.leonardoacademy.org/images/stories/leo-4000_draft-for-public-comment.pdf\">National Sustainable Agriculture Standard\u003c/a>, published last November. But even if you can get academics and industry to agree on a definition of sustainability, the process is pricey: Anderson guesses it will take a million dollars just to develop and publicize it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, what's a consumer to do? For now, the simplest answer may be the best, says Anderson: You don't need an app or a rating if you buy local. \"Know your farmer, know your producer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alison Bruzek is an intern for NPR's science desk.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/89366/apps-aim-to-guide-you-on-sustainable-food-whatever-that-means","authors":["byline_bayareabites_89366"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_12108","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_13905","bayareabites_13904","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_89367","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_87643":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_87643","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"87643","score":null,"sort":[1410981017000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"hog-island-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars","title":" Hog Island Oyster Farm Fights Climate Change as Demand Soars","publishDate":1410981017,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Leases.-Photo-Courtesy-Hog-Island-Oyster-Co.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Leases.-Photo-Courtesy-Hog-Island-Oyster-Co.jpg\" alt=\"Hog Island Oyster Leases. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"680\" height=\"376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hog Island Oyster Leases. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/shenry/\" target=\"_blank\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/10/iconic-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars/\" target=\"_blank\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> (9/10/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters are big business. That might not be immediately apparent on a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://hogislandoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> in Northern California’s bucolic Tomales Bay, where the place still has a seafood shack sensibility. The farm was started more than 30 years ago by two marine biologists who borrowed $500 from parents and a boat from neighbors and began cultivating briny bivalves in five-acres of intertidal waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a small seafood business and sustainable farm, Hog Island has weathered its share of hardships, including significant oyster seed shortages and the threat of species extinction, courtesy of environmental challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It has stayed afloat, though. In fact, three decades on, Hog Island has quite the cult following around the country and it has earned respect as a leader in the shellfish industry. These days, founders John Finger and Terry Sawyer preside over a $12 million operation that employs almost 200, farms 160 acres, and harvests over 3.5 million oysters, clams, and mussels every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the flagship farm, the company boasts an oyster bar in Napa (that survived the recent earthquake unscathed) and the \u003ca href=\"http://hogislandoysters.com/visit/san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\">recently expanded oyster bar in San Francisco’s Ferry Building\u003c/a>, where prospective diners still wait an hour or more to snag a seat before they’re happily slurping salty, meaty morsels off the half shell. The beloved restaurant is now double its original size and features an updated, chef-driven menu and an au courant cocktail program. In the 10 years the oyster bar overlooking San Francisco Bay has been in business it’s shucked nearly 10 million oysters. At the current rate of demand, they expect to shuck 2 million oysters a year, says Finger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Shucking-Oysters.-Hog-Island-Oyster-Bar-San-Francisco.-Ed-Anderson-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Shucking-Oysters.-Hog-Island-Oyster-Bar-San-Francisco.-Ed-Anderson-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Shucking oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar in SF. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87649\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shucking oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar in SF. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biggest threat to business? Not the new crop of oyster bars popping up around town and elsewhere in the nation. Nor is it keeping up with consumer demand—for now. No, Hog Island is dealing with a different kind of problem: A quandary known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.pmel.noaa.gov/co2/story/What+is+Ocean+Acidification%3F\" target=\"_blank\">ocean acidification\u003c/a> or climate change’s caustic cousin. The company has been \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2012/12/03/troubled-waters-farmers-and-scientists-work-together-to-save-oysters/\" target=\"_blank\">working with scientists to study the impact\u003c/a> of this sea change in shellfish habitat that’s killing off billions of baby oysters in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. They’re also blazing a trail on the political outreach and public education front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to quantify the problem in our collaborations with academics so that we can get policy makers to make the kinds of changes on the alternative energy front to address it,” says Sawyer, who believes America’s addiction to fossil fuels and their accompanying carbon dioxide emissions are at the root of the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ocean acidification is a big bummer for baby oysters. Here’s why: Much of the carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere is taken up by oceans, dramatically lowering pH levels in the process, and creating a chemical change that makes the ocean water more acidic. That increase in acidity creates a hostile habitat for oyster seeds (also called spat) and other marine life. Ocean acidification is especially harmful to oysters at their larval stage, when they’re building their protective coverings. Their fragile calcium carbonate shells don’t form well under increased acidic conditions, stunting their growth, making them more vulnerable to predators, and sometimes killing them outright. This sea shift can also stress small oysters, making them more susceptible to disease, says Sawyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87646\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Dr.-Tessa-Hill-UC-Davis-Bodega-Bay-Marine-Lab.-Examining-Ocean-Acidification_PH-Monitoring-Sensoring.-Hog-ISland-Oyster-Farm1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Dr.-Tessa-Hill-UC-Davis-Bodega-Bay-Marine-Lab.-Examining-Ocean-Acidification_PH-Monitoring-Sensoring.-Hog-ISland-Oyster-Farm1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Tessa Hill from UC Davis Bodega Bay Marine Lab examining ocean acidification. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87646\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Tessa Hill from UC Davis Bodega Bay Marine Lab examining ocean acidification. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Hog Island team closely monitor changes in water temperature, salinity, oxygen, and pH at the farm and respond as needed. But that’s not enough. “It’s going to take a paradigm shift in behavior to address this,” says Sawyer. “We have no choice but to face it: We’re on the leading edge of what climate change and fossil fuels are doing to our waters.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oysters as Endangered Species?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could the end of oysters be near? These veteran shellfish farmers aren’t prone to such histrionic proclamations. But they are concerned about supply and the farm is looking beyond science for solutions. It’s beginning to diversify, which as all farmers know, can be a saving grace during tough times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island is expanding its aquaculture operation. It plans to open an oyster hatchery in Northern California’s Humboldt Bay that will provide seeds to grow in Tomales Bay; permits have been approved and baby bivalve cultivation is expected to start later this year. It’s a practical response to the Pacific Northwest’s spat shortage. Eventually, the site will harvest some of its own oysters as well and sell seeds to other oyster farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Running a hatchery is a tricky and expensive undertaking,” says Finger, who adds that the $1.5 million enterprise will take two years to complete. “We never thought we’d need to go into the hatchery business but the oyster seed shortage changed that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog island has also partnered with another shellfish farm in Discovery Bay, Washington, where it sources a popular Pacific oyster. The water at Discovery Bay offer a different marroir (think \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em>, only the sea version) than Tomales Bay–it’s colder and more oceanic for starters. And, bonus, the oysters grown there, called Cliffsides, offer customers a more mineral-like taste than your typical Pacifics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For geoduck clam farmers Peter and Robyn Downey of it’s a win-win. The Downeys were looking for a way to diversify their income and offer steadier work to their employees. And the Hog Island crew needed a reliable supplemental source of oysters. The nascent relationship has yielded around 400,000 oysters to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island does ship in oysters from Washington state and the East Coast to add variety, but it hasn’t had to import oysters in the past couple of years due to shortages, says Finger. Still, it has dramatically scaled back its wholesale business to high-end restaurants due to supply issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island is especially known for their extra-small Pacifics, dubbed Sweetwaters. Now, the oyster farm is working closely with \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2013/side-dish-2/\" target=\"_blank\">conservation organizations\u003c/a> to reestablish the Olympia, the only indigenous San Francisco oyster. A staple in the diet of coastal Native Americans, overharvesting, development, and pollution all but wiped out these tiny but mighty mollusks during and after the Gold Rush. Since then, these bivalves–known for their cucumber finish and slightly metallic taste–have been hard to find in local waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Olympias offer a blast of copper on the palate but they’re difficult to grow and sensitive little guys,” says Sawyer. While it might be years before these gems are harvested for public consumption, the Hog Island farmers are committed to reestablishing a native species in a marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87647\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Farm.-MARSHALL.-Harvest.-RIna-Jordan-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Farm.-MARSHALL.-Harvest.-RIna-Jordan-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Harvesting oysters at Hog Island Oyster Farm. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87647\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvesting oysters at Hog Island Oyster Farm. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Big Hit on the Half Shell\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Planned aquaculture farms like Hog Island have supplanted the wild oyster population for decades now and the tiny town of Marshall in Tomales Bay, home to Hog Island, is Northern California’s Oyster HQ, with five commercial oyster companies in the mix. \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, which the company claims supplied around 40 percent of the state’s oysters, closed its retail operation and cannery in July following unsuccessful efforts to keep operating in the Point Reyes National Seashore after its 40-year lease with the National Park Service expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A major supplier to Bay Area restaurants, its unclear where chefs will source local oysters once the farm stops harvesting altogether. This summer, The \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> and several West Marin restaurants filed a \u003ca href=\"http://saveourshellfish.com/SaveOurShellfish.com/Drakes_Estero_Advocacy.html\" target=\"_blank\">lawsuit to prevent the closure\u003c/a>. On September 9, a federal judge \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Friends-of-Drakes-Bay-Oyster-Co-lose-in-court-5744770.php\" target=\"_blank\">rejected\u003c/a> their efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Finger would like to see new oyster farms established, but says the expense and bureaucracy is a major impediment in California. “It can take two years and $200,000 just to get the permits approved; it shouldn’t be that time-consuming or that expensive,” he says, noting that oyster farms in states such as Virginia, Maryland, and New Jersey have more streamlined approval processes in place for budding shellfish farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any given day some one million oysters are growing at Hog Island. The farm shoots for harvesting about four million per year but mortality rates are high–around 50 percent. It’s an industry hazard that oyster farmers plan for; a survival of the fittest situation and ocean acidification doesn’t help an oyster’s odds of making it to the juicy, plump size consumers have come to expect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years oysters have seen a pendulum swing in popularity. Readily available until the early 1900s in San Francisco, they were an everyday food enjoyed by people at every economic level. Their reputation as a luxury, boutique item came later. These days, farmed oysters are being touted as an ecologically-responsible, lean protein alternative. \u003ca href=\"http://paulgreenberg.org/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>American Catch\u003c/em>\u003c/a> author \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/07/08/10-things-you-should-know-about-the-american-seafood-supply/\" target=\"_blank\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a>, for example, includes Atlantic oysters and other filter feeders in his short list of locally raised sustainable seafood that get the thumbs up for regular eating by U.S. consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the shellfish farmers at Hog Island are doing all they can to protect both a sustainable food source and their own livelihoods. That’s welcome news to die-hard bivalve fans, who maintain there’s something special, even exciting, about slurping a raw, live oyster off its shell.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The biggest threat to business? Not the new crop of oyster bars popping up around town and elsewhere in the nation. Nor is it keeping up with consumer demand—for now. No, Hog Island is dealing with a different kind of problem.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1411420429,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1657},"headData":{"title":"Hog Island Oyster Farm Fights Climate Change as Demand Soars | KQED","description":"The biggest threat to business? Not the new crop of oyster bars popping up around town and elsewhere in the nation. Nor is it keeping up with consumer demand—for now. No, Hog Island is dealing with a different kind of problem.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":" Hog Island Oyster Farm Fights Climate Change as Demand Soars","datePublished":"2014-09-17T19:10:17.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-22T21:13:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"87643 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=87643","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/09/17/hog-island-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars/","disqusTitle":" Hog Island Oyster Farm Fights Climate Change as Demand Soars","path":"/bayareabites/87643/hog-island-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Leases.-Photo-Courtesy-Hog-Island-Oyster-Co.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Leases.-Photo-Courtesy-Hog-Island-Oyster-Co.jpg\" alt=\"Hog Island Oyster Leases. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"680\" height=\"376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hog Island Oyster Leases. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/shenry/\" target=\"_blank\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/10/iconic-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars/\" target=\"_blank\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> (9/10/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters are big business. That might not be immediately apparent on a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://hogislandoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> in Northern California’s bucolic Tomales Bay, where the place still has a seafood shack sensibility. The farm was started more than 30 years ago by two marine biologists who borrowed $500 from parents and a boat from neighbors and began cultivating briny bivalves in five-acres of intertidal waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a small seafood business and sustainable farm, Hog Island has weathered its share of hardships, including significant oyster seed shortages and the threat of species extinction, courtesy of environmental challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It has stayed afloat, though. In fact, three decades on, Hog Island has quite the cult following around the country and it has earned respect as a leader in the shellfish industry. These days, founders John Finger and Terry Sawyer preside over a $12 million operation that employs almost 200, farms 160 acres, and harvests over 3.5 million oysters, clams, and mussels every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the flagship farm, the company boasts an oyster bar in Napa (that survived the recent earthquake unscathed) and the \u003ca href=\"http://hogislandoysters.com/visit/san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\">recently expanded oyster bar in San Francisco’s Ferry Building\u003c/a>, where prospective diners still wait an hour or more to snag a seat before they’re happily slurping salty, meaty morsels off the half shell. The beloved restaurant is now double its original size and features an updated, chef-driven menu and an au courant cocktail program. In the 10 years the oyster bar overlooking San Francisco Bay has been in business it’s shucked nearly 10 million oysters. At the current rate of demand, they expect to shuck 2 million oysters a year, says Finger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Shucking-Oysters.-Hog-Island-Oyster-Bar-San-Francisco.-Ed-Anderson-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Shucking-Oysters.-Hog-Island-Oyster-Bar-San-Francisco.-Ed-Anderson-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Shucking oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar in SF. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87649\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shucking oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar in SF. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biggest threat to business? Not the new crop of oyster bars popping up around town and elsewhere in the nation. Nor is it keeping up with consumer demand—for now. No, Hog Island is dealing with a different kind of problem: A quandary known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.pmel.noaa.gov/co2/story/What+is+Ocean+Acidification%3F\" target=\"_blank\">ocean acidification\u003c/a> or climate change’s caustic cousin. The company has been \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2012/12/03/troubled-waters-farmers-and-scientists-work-together-to-save-oysters/\" target=\"_blank\">working with scientists to study the impact\u003c/a> of this sea change in shellfish habitat that’s killing off billions of baby oysters in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. They’re also blazing a trail on the political outreach and public education front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to quantify the problem in our collaborations with academics so that we can get policy makers to make the kinds of changes on the alternative energy front to address it,” says Sawyer, who believes America’s addiction to fossil fuels and their accompanying carbon dioxide emissions are at the root of the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ocean acidification is a big bummer for baby oysters. Here’s why: Much of the carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere is taken up by oceans, dramatically lowering pH levels in the process, and creating a chemical change that makes the ocean water more acidic. That increase in acidity creates a hostile habitat for oyster seeds (also called spat) and other marine life. Ocean acidification is especially harmful to oysters at their larval stage, when they’re building their protective coverings. Their fragile calcium carbonate shells don’t form well under increased acidic conditions, stunting their growth, making them more vulnerable to predators, and sometimes killing them outright. This sea shift can also stress small oysters, making them more susceptible to disease, says Sawyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87646\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Dr.-Tessa-Hill-UC-Davis-Bodega-Bay-Marine-Lab.-Examining-Ocean-Acidification_PH-Monitoring-Sensoring.-Hog-ISland-Oyster-Farm1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Dr.-Tessa-Hill-UC-Davis-Bodega-Bay-Marine-Lab.-Examining-Ocean-Acidification_PH-Monitoring-Sensoring.-Hog-ISland-Oyster-Farm1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Tessa Hill from UC Davis Bodega Bay Marine Lab examining ocean acidification. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87646\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Tessa Hill from UC Davis Bodega Bay Marine Lab examining ocean acidification. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Hog Island team closely monitor changes in water temperature, salinity, oxygen, and pH at the farm and respond as needed. But that’s not enough. “It’s going to take a paradigm shift in behavior to address this,” says Sawyer. “We have no choice but to face it: We’re on the leading edge of what climate change and fossil fuels are doing to our waters.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oysters as Endangered Species?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could the end of oysters be near? These veteran shellfish farmers aren’t prone to such histrionic proclamations. But they are concerned about supply and the farm is looking beyond science for solutions. It’s beginning to diversify, which as all farmers know, can be a saving grace during tough times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island is expanding its aquaculture operation. It plans to open an oyster hatchery in Northern California’s Humboldt Bay that will provide seeds to grow in Tomales Bay; permits have been approved and baby bivalve cultivation is expected to start later this year. It’s a practical response to the Pacific Northwest’s spat shortage. Eventually, the site will harvest some of its own oysters as well and sell seeds to other oyster farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Running a hatchery is a tricky and expensive undertaking,” says Finger, who adds that the $1.5 million enterprise will take two years to complete. “We never thought we’d need to go into the hatchery business but the oyster seed shortage changed that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog island has also partnered with another shellfish farm in Discovery Bay, Washington, where it sources a popular Pacific oyster. The water at Discovery Bay offer a different marroir (think \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em>, only the sea version) than Tomales Bay–it’s colder and more oceanic for starters. And, bonus, the oysters grown there, called Cliffsides, offer customers a more mineral-like taste than your typical Pacifics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For geoduck clam farmers Peter and Robyn Downey of it’s a win-win. The Downeys were looking for a way to diversify their income and offer steadier work to their employees. And the Hog Island crew needed a reliable supplemental source of oysters. The nascent relationship has yielded around 400,000 oysters to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island does ship in oysters from Washington state and the East Coast to add variety, but it hasn’t had to import oysters in the past couple of years due to shortages, says Finger. Still, it has dramatically scaled back its wholesale business to high-end restaurants due to supply issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog Island is especially known for their extra-small Pacifics, dubbed Sweetwaters. Now, the oyster farm is working closely with \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2013/side-dish-2/\" target=\"_blank\">conservation organizations\u003c/a> to reestablish the Olympia, the only indigenous San Francisco oyster. A staple in the diet of coastal Native Americans, overharvesting, development, and pollution all but wiped out these tiny but mighty mollusks during and after the Gold Rush. Since then, these bivalves–known for their cucumber finish and slightly metallic taste–have been hard to find in local waters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Olympias offer a blast of copper on the palate but they’re difficult to grow and sensitive little guys,” says Sawyer. While it might be years before these gems are harvested for public consumption, the Hog Island farmers are committed to reestablishing a native species in a marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87647\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Farm.-MARSHALL.-Harvest.-RIna-Jordan-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/Hog-Island-Oyster-Farm.-MARSHALL.-Harvest.-RIna-Jordan-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Harvesting oysters at Hog Island Oyster Farm. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87647\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvesting oysters at Hog Island Oyster Farm. Photo courtesy of Hog Island Oyster Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Big Hit on the Half Shell\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Planned aquaculture farms like Hog Island have supplanted the wild oyster population for decades now and the tiny town of Marshall in Tomales Bay, home to Hog Island, is Northern California’s Oyster HQ, with five commercial oyster companies in the mix. \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, which the company claims supplied around 40 percent of the state’s oysters, closed its retail operation and cannery in July following unsuccessful efforts to keep operating in the Point Reyes National Seashore after its 40-year lease with the National Park Service expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A major supplier to Bay Area restaurants, its unclear where chefs will source local oysters once the farm stops harvesting altogether. This summer, The \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> and several West Marin restaurants filed a \u003ca href=\"http://saveourshellfish.com/SaveOurShellfish.com/Drakes_Estero_Advocacy.html\" target=\"_blank\">lawsuit to prevent the closure\u003c/a>. On September 9, a federal judge \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Friends-of-Drakes-Bay-Oyster-Co-lose-in-court-5744770.php\" target=\"_blank\">rejected\u003c/a> their efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Finger would like to see new oyster farms established, but says the expense and bureaucracy is a major impediment in California. “It can take two years and $200,000 just to get the permits approved; it shouldn’t be that time-consuming or that expensive,” he says, noting that oyster farms in states such as Virginia, Maryland, and New Jersey have more streamlined approval processes in place for budding shellfish farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any given day some one million oysters are growing at Hog Island. The farm shoots for harvesting about four million per year but mortality rates are high–around 50 percent. It’s an industry hazard that oyster farmers plan for; a survival of the fittest situation and ocean acidification doesn’t help an oyster’s odds of making it to the juicy, plump size consumers have come to expect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years oysters have seen a pendulum swing in popularity. Readily available until the early 1900s in San Francisco, they were an everyday food enjoyed by people at every economic level. Their reputation as a luxury, boutique item came later. These days, farmed oysters are being touted as an ecologically-responsible, lean protein alternative. \u003ca href=\"http://paulgreenberg.org/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>American Catch\u003c/em>\u003c/a> author \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/07/08/10-things-you-should-know-about-the-american-seafood-supply/\" target=\"_blank\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a>, for example, includes Atlantic oysters and other filter feeders in his short list of locally raised sustainable seafood that get the thumbs up for regular eating by U.S. consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the shellfish farmers at Hog Island are doing all they can to protect both a sustainable food source and their own livelihoods. That’s welcome news to die-hard bivalve fans, who maintain there’s something special, even exciting, about slurping a raw, live oyster off its shell.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/87643/hog-island-oyster-farm-fights-climate-change-as-demand-soars","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_836","bayareabites_10898","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_2415","bayareabites_1021","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_87649","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us","airtime":"SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"wnyc"},"link":"/radio/program/on-the-media","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/","rss":"http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"}},"our-body-politic":{"id":"our-body-politic","title":"Our Body Politic","info":"Presented by KQED, KCRW and KPCC, and created and hosted by award-winning journalist Farai Chideya, Our Body Politic is unapologetically centered on reporting on not just how women of color experience the major political events of today, but how they’re impacting those very issues.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-7pm, SUN 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Our-Body-Politic-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://our-body-politic.simplecast.com/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kcrw"},"link":"/radio/program/our-body-politic","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/our-body-politic/id1533069868","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5zaW1wbGVjYXN0LmNvbS9feGFQaHMxcw","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/4ApAiLT1kV153TttWAmqmc","rss":"https://feeds.simplecast.com/_xaPhs1s","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/Our-Body-Politic-p1369211/"}},"pbs-newshour":{"id":"pbs-newshour","title":"PBS NewsHour","info":"Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3pm-4pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"pbs"},"link":"/radio/program/pbs-newshour","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/","rss":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"}},"perspectives":{"id":"perspectives","title":"Perspectives","tagline":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991","info":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Perspectives-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/perspectives/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"kqed","order":"15"},"link":"/perspectives","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"}},"planet-money":{"id":"planet-money","title":"Planet Money","info":"The economy explained. 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