Clove and Hoof: A New Butcher and Sandwich Shop in Oakland's Temescal
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On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli
Who Owns the Deli?
Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli
Sponsored
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NOSH is produced by \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, Berkeley’s locally grown, independent news website.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"ebnosh","facebook":"ebnosh","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Berkeleyside NOSH | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/berkeleysidenosh"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_107115":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107115","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107115","score":null,"sort":[1456256752000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"vegan-deli-the-butchers-son-opens-in-berkeley","title":"Vegan Deli The Butcher's Son Opens in Berkeley","publishDate":1456256752,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>After over a year of waiting, vegans of Berkeley can finally rejoice. The Butcher's Son is open. Sort of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're definitely not completely ready to open,\" said co-owner Peter Fikaris. But who needs things like menus or full deli cases? The hungry people in line so far don't seem to mind eating whatever Fikaris happens to be making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegan deli, run by Fikaris and his sister, Christina Stobing, was originally supposed to open on Solano Avenue, but disagreements with the landlords put a nix on those plans. On Jan. 1, the duo got the keys to their current space, on University Avenue, in the same building as \u003ca href=\"http://bonitafishmarket.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Bonita Fish Market\u003c/a>, and set an opening date: Feb. 22. Then it was a \"mad rush,\" said Fikaris, to be ready in time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107124\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1.jpg\" alt=\"The Butcher's Son on University Avenue in Berkeley. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Butcher's Son on University Avenue in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There isn't a menu yet, literally. When you get to the counter at the front of the line, the cashier tells you what is currently available. That doesn't take long, though, since there were only three sandwiches being made at lunchtime yesterday. Those sandwiches were also constantly changing, as they ran out of items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plan, said Stobing, is to have the full menu rolled out in the next three weeks, after they see how the first few days go. There will be bagels in the morning from \u003ca href=\"http://baronbaking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Baron Baking\u003c/a>, croissants from a local French pastry maker, and Monday morning there was even cheesecake from \u003ca href=\"http://allwellfed.com/\" target=\"_blank\">well.fed. Bakery\u003c/a>. Midday will see at least five (and possibly ten) sandwiches on the menu, with bread from \u003ca href=\"http://www.panoramabaking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Panorama Baking\u003c/a> and everything else made in-house. Sandwiches will all be around $10.95 and will include a build-your-own option and a burger. There will also be cannolis—a few of which made their way to eager hands on Monday morning—and some salads. And, ultimately, the deli case, which was rather sparse on opening day, will be full of meats and cheeses that can also be ordered and shipped out of town. But not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107126\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3.jpg\" alt=\"The deli counter at The Butcher's Son.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The deli counter at The Butcher's Son. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It should go without saying that the \"meat\" and \"cheese\" for sale in that deli counter aren't really meat or cheese. But what has kept fans anxiously waiting for the deli's opening is that the food is fairly unique tasting in the world of vegan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fikaris said his techniques are \"definitely not something that's used by anyone else,\" and not something he can go into lots of detail about either. Along with traditional techniques, like braising the \"meats,\" he also employs secret tricks of the trade he's formulated over years in the industry. \"It's a process,\" he said. \"It can take up to four days of labor to make the feta.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fikaris and Stobing grew up helping at their father \u003ca href=\"http://www.netcantina.com/michaelsdiner/\" target=\"_blank\">Michael’s American Vegetarian Diner\u003c/a>, which served up food on Telegraph Avenue in the 1990s and early 2000s. Fikaris also owns \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Pretty-Dog-Hot-Sauce-358400304180505/\" target=\"_blank\">Pretty Dog Hot Sauce\u003c/a> and has worked in a number of pop-ups and cafes through the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His experiences shows in the quality of the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not vegan and, with a few exceptions, I've never been wildly impressed with friends' efforts to convince me of the tastiness of their vegan offerings. The Butcher's Son, though, holds its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried the wildly popular meatball and mozzarella sandwich ($10.95), which sold out shortly after I ate mine. The mozzarella is made of soaked cashews, cultured cashews, water, and refined coconut oil. The meatballs are made of mushrooms, vegetable protein, and wheat-gluten. It's all mixed together with marinara, grilled peppers and onions, and mushrooms for an effect that isn't quite a regular meatball sandwich, but which is tasty and hearty in its own right. The \"meat\" has a tendency to crumble, but the bread and \"cheese\" are exceptional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107127\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4.jpg\" alt=\"The pulled pork and potato salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1047\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-400x218.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-800x436.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-768x419.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-1440x785.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-1180x643.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-960x524.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pulled pork and potato salad. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In some ways, the sandwiches need new names that do them justice on their own terms. The pulled pork sandwich ($10.95) doesn't much taste like pulled pork, but it does taste tangy and sweet, both filling and not as heavy as the meatballs. The pulled pork is made from yuba skins and then soaked in barbecue sauce. Order potato salad or coleslaw with your sandwiches, and you'll be guaranteed to have leftovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For at least the next few weeks, things are still up in the air at the brick East Coast-style (with a very West Coast touch) deli. The shop is closed on Wednesdays, for now, and will be adjusting its menu and offerings based on responses from customers. If you head to the comfortable small shop you may not know what you're going to get, but you know it'll be good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Butcher's Son\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>1941 University Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/AEJ5EG\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 984-0818\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri, 7am-3pm; Sat, Sun, 8am-5pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/vegandelicatessen\" target=\"_blank\">The Butcher's Son\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"After a long wait, vegan deli The Butcher's Son opens in Berkeley with tasty sandwiches, vegan cheeses, and bagels.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1456335055,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":885},"headData":{"title":"Vegan Deli The Butcher's Son Opens in Berkeley | KQED","description":"After a long wait, vegan deli The Butcher's Son opens in Berkeley with tasty sandwiches, vegan cheeses, and bagels.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Vegan Deli The Butcher's Son Opens in Berkeley","datePublished":"2016-02-23T19:45:52.000Z","dateModified":"2016-02-24T17:30:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"107115 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107115","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/23/vegan-deli-the-butchers-son-opens-in-berkeley/","disqusTitle":"Vegan Deli The Butcher's Son Opens in Berkeley","path":"/bayareabites/107115/vegan-deli-the-butchers-son-opens-in-berkeley","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>After over a year of waiting, vegans of Berkeley can finally rejoice. The Butcher's Son is open. Sort of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're definitely not completely ready to open,\" said co-owner Peter Fikaris. But who needs things like menus or full deli cases? The hungry people in line so far don't seem to mind eating whatever Fikaris happens to be making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegan deli, run by Fikaris and his sister, Christina Stobing, was originally supposed to open on Solano Avenue, but disagreements with the landlords put a nix on those plans. On Jan. 1, the duo got the keys to their current space, on University Avenue, in the same building as \u003ca href=\"http://bonitafishmarket.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Bonita Fish Market\u003c/a>, and set an opening date: Feb. 22. Then it was a \"mad rush,\" said Fikaris, to be ready in time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107124\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1.jpg\" alt=\"The Butcher's Son on University Avenue in Berkeley. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson1-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Butcher's Son on University Avenue in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There isn't a menu yet, literally. When you get to the counter at the front of the line, the cashier tells you what is currently available. That doesn't take long, though, since there were only three sandwiches being made at lunchtime yesterday. Those sandwiches were also constantly changing, as they ran out of items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plan, said Stobing, is to have the full menu rolled out in the next three weeks, after they see how the first few days go. There will be bagels in the morning from \u003ca href=\"http://baronbaking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Baron Baking\u003c/a>, croissants from a local French pastry maker, and Monday morning there was even cheesecake from \u003ca href=\"http://allwellfed.com/\" target=\"_blank\">well.fed. Bakery\u003c/a>. Midday will see at least five (and possibly ten) sandwiches on the menu, with bread from \u003ca href=\"http://www.panoramabaking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Panorama Baking\u003c/a> and everything else made in-house. Sandwiches will all be around $10.95 and will include a build-your-own option and a burger. There will also be cannolis—a few of which made their way to eager hands on Monday morning—and some salads. And, ultimately, the deli case, which was rather sparse on opening day, will be full of meats and cheeses that can also be ordered and shipped out of town. But not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107126\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3.jpg\" alt=\"The deli counter at The Butcher's Son.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson3-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The deli counter at The Butcher's Son. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It should go without saying that the \"meat\" and \"cheese\" for sale in that deli counter aren't really meat or cheese. But what has kept fans anxiously waiting for the deli's opening is that the food is fairly unique tasting in the world of vegan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fikaris said his techniques are \"definitely not something that's used by anyone else,\" and not something he can go into lots of detail about either. Along with traditional techniques, like braising the \"meats,\" he also employs secret tricks of the trade he's formulated over years in the industry. \"It's a process,\" he said. \"It can take up to four days of labor to make the feta.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fikaris and Stobing grew up helping at their father \u003ca href=\"http://www.netcantina.com/michaelsdiner/\" target=\"_blank\">Michael’s American Vegetarian Diner\u003c/a>, which served up food on Telegraph Avenue in the 1990s and early 2000s. Fikaris also owns \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Pretty-Dog-Hot-Sauce-358400304180505/\" target=\"_blank\">Pretty Dog Hot Sauce\u003c/a> and has worked in a number of pop-ups and cafes through the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His experiences shows in the quality of the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not vegan and, with a few exceptions, I've never been wildly impressed with friends' efforts to convince me of the tastiness of their vegan offerings. The Butcher's Son, though, holds its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried the wildly popular meatball and mozzarella sandwich ($10.95), which sold out shortly after I ate mine. The mozzarella is made of soaked cashews, cultured cashews, water, and refined coconut oil. The meatballs are made of mushrooms, vegetable protein, and wheat-gluten. It's all mixed together with marinara, grilled peppers and onions, and mushrooms for an effect that isn't quite a regular meatball sandwich, but which is tasty and hearty in its own right. The \"meat\" has a tendency to crumble, but the bread and \"cheese\" are exceptional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-107127\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4.jpg\" alt=\"The pulled pork and potato salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1047\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-400x218.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-800x436.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-768x419.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-1440x785.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-1180x643.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/butchersson4-960x524.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pulled pork and potato salad. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In some ways, the sandwiches need new names that do them justice on their own terms. The pulled pork sandwich ($10.95) doesn't much taste like pulled pork, but it does taste tangy and sweet, both filling and not as heavy as the meatballs. The pulled pork is made from yuba skins and then soaked in barbecue sauce. Order potato salad or coleslaw with your sandwiches, and you'll be guaranteed to have leftovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For at least the next few weeks, things are still up in the air at the brick East Coast-style (with a very West Coast touch) deli. The shop is closed on Wednesdays, for now, and will be adjusting its menu and offerings based on responses from customers. If you head to the comfortable small shop you may not know what you're going to get, but you know it'll be good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Butcher's Son\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>1941 University Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/AEJ5EG\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 984-0818\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri, 7am-3pm; Sat, Sun, 8am-5pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/vegandelicatessen\" target=\"_blank\">The Butcher's Son\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107115/vegan-deli-the-butchers-son-opens-in-berkeley","authors":["1459"],"categories":["bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_13992","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107125","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_90972":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_90972","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"90972","score":null,"sort":[1418754245000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"clove-and-hoof-a-new-butcher-and-sandwich-shop-in-oaklands-temescal","title":"Clove and Hoof: A New Butcher and Sandwich Shop in Oakland's Temescal","publishDate":1418754245,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52761-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52761-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of Clove and Hoof offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90981\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of Clove and Hoof offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/author/alix-wall/\" target=\"_blank\">Alix Wall\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2014/12/10/clove-and-hoof-a-meaty-addition-to-temescal/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeleyside NOSH\u003c/a> (12/10/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temescal already has its \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2014/06/30/oakland-mac-n-cheese-mecca-homeroom-expands/\" target=\"_blank\">church of cheese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2013/09/25/the-hogs-apothecary-not-an-insult-to-vegetarians/\" target=\"_blank\">pantheon to pork\u003c/a>, so now let us take a moment to welcome its latest arrival: a brand new cathedral for the carnivorously inclined: \u003ca href=\"http://cloveandhoofoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Clove and Hoof\u003c/a>, a butcher and sandwich shop on the corner of Broadway and 40th Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened by Analiesa Gosnell, the general manager and John Blevins, executive chef, the pair has a wealth of butchery experience, working at such places as Café Rouge and 4505 Meats between them, and most recently, studying butchery in France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clove and Hoof specializes in whole animal butchery, and its gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few, to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90977\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_5283-720x960.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_5283-720x960.jpg\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof: new to Temescal. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90977\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof: new to Temescal. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The interior offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. The mismatched silverware and paper napkins sit in large cans on the tables. A refrigerator case full of meat stocks and house-made sauerkraut and kimchi greets you when you first line up at the counter, with multicolored jars of house-made pickles on shelves above them. Clearly, they are going for an old-time vibe as is evident by their beverage selection, which includes Milwaukee’s Best in the beer department, Boylan’s Seltzer and IBC Rootbeer for the soft drinks, as well as no one’s favorite, Yoo-Hoo chocolate drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the open kitchen, employees are both breaking down animals and making sandwiches. Toward the back, a glass case full of cookbooks holds an impressive collection, including the six-volume \u003cem>Modernist Cuisine\u003c/em> by Microsoft cofounder Nathan Myhrvoid, which retails for over $500. The message seems to be: “We aren’t f#%^&* around.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the place was still in soft opening when we visited, and its charcuterie program should be rolling out soon, with entrées and dinner service happening by early next year, the menu looked so enticing that as neighbors, we couldn’t help ourselves but stop in. We wanted to sample the sandwiches, and bring along some hungry friends with us. But given its soft opening mode, and the fact that they solicited feedback from us about our meal, let’s consider this a preview, rather than a review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90980\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52641-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52641-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"The Cuban: porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90980\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cuban: porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We had a choice of six sandos to choose from, five of them meat and one vegetarian. While it’s difficult to fathom why a vegetarian would come here, there are those occasions when one is in a larger group and gets overruled, and it’s great they are doing more than paying lip-service to veggies, as their one veg sandwich does sound worth trying: lager-steamed broccoli florets with warm beer cheese fondue, broccoli stem sauerkraut and pickled mustard seeds on a French hero roll. I don’t think I’ve ever had a broccoli cheese sandwich before, and with all the other offerings, it was a no-brainer that we were not going to choose this one, but I give them points for originality. I’ve also seen they do an egg salad with kimchi, but that was not on offer when we were there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90978\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52591-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52591-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof’s gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90978\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof’s gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you don’t want to read further, here’s the essential info: we loved what we ate and we will be back, though making this place a daily habit could be hazardous to one’s health. Here’s what we tried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cuban $14:\u003c/strong> porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll – this wasn’t your garden variety ham and cheese. It tasted more bacon-y – and therefore ,fatty – than a traditional Cuban. Because of the house-made mustard, the predominant flavor was sweet. Loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cheese Steak $15:\u003c/strong> thinly-sliced sirloin, onion confit, grilled trumpet mushrooms, pickled okra and warm beer cheese fondue on a hero roll. Given that a cheese steak is usually just a steak sandwich with cheese (or Cheese Whiz, in certain parts, like Philadelphia, where it originated) this was a vast improvement on the original. However, with the richness of the cheese fondue and mushrooms, we felt it tasted a bit like beef stroganoff in a roll. The pickled okra could have been played up to cut the richness, as it was barely noticed. Again, loved it, but not sure I’d order it again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.25-AM-720x536.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.25-AM-720x536.png\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof Burger: two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"536\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90983\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof Burger: two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Fried Chicken $13:\u003c/strong> with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. This sando was comprised of two juicy thighs, which by the time they were battered and fried, looked ginormous; with a salad, it could easily be split by two people. The chicken was still pink inside, rarer than most people like, but we didn’t find that to be a problem. We loved the sweetness the caramel added, as well as the tanginess of the pomegranate seeds. Barely tasted the Old Bay butter, but didn’t miss it. It takes guts to do a fried chicken sandwich within a mile of here without the inevitable comparisons to Bakesale Betty’s, but they’ve managed to come up with a worthy competitor. Loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.33-AM-720x541.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.33-AM-720x541.png\" alt=\"The Fried Chicken: with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"541\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90984\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Fried Chicken: with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>C & H Burger $14:\u003c/strong> two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll: Who doesn’t love a good burger? Unfortunately, this one is not in the running, yet. This was the least successful sandwich, it too wet, a bit of a mess, — and not in the finger-licking, good way – with the flavors muddled. A slice of cheese would have been preferred rather than a gloppy sauce. Also the patties themselves could have had more char. Liked it but didn’t love it. All sandos came with a small side salad of mixed greens, nothing fancy but a fine side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small serving of cassoulet at $4 was perhaps the best bargain on the menu, and one of the tastiest. Earthy and rich, it was perhaps overkill with sandwiches like these, but that’s kind of the point at a place like this, isn’t it? As were the hand-cut beef tallow fries $4, served with a side of (not enough) pickle mayo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.16-AM-720x541.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.16-AM-720x541.png\" alt=\"A salad of shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"541\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90982\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad of shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We split a salad four ways: shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts $11, which was a great way to cut all the heaviness of the meal. The crema was in a puddle at the bottom, meaning I didn’t notice it until later, and actually loved the freshness of the salad even without the crema because it was such a needed contrast to everything else. The arugula/fruit/nut/cheese combo can seem so overdone, but there’s a reason there’s a version in so many restaurants, because it just works. The apple butter vinaigrette was a new twist, and it’s good to know that the vegetarian dishes here don’t get short shrift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But again, who would come to a place called Clove and Hoof to order a salad? When meat is offered this way, this consciously, with this much thought put to how it’s raised and what accoutrements best suit it, it’s almost a crime not to order it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://cloveandhoofoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Clove and Hoof\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>: \u003cstrong>4001 Broadway, Oakland. Open Wed–Sun 11am to 6pm. Connect with them on\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CloveAndHoof\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Facebook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>and\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/clove_and_hoof\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Twitter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Temescal already has its church of cheese and pantheon to pork, so now let us take a moment to welcome its latest arrival: a brand new cathedral for the carnivorously inclined: Clove and Hoof, a butcher and sandwich shop on the corner of Broadway and 40th Street.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1418755009,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1438},"headData":{"title":"Clove and Hoof: A New Butcher and Sandwich Shop in Oakland's Temescal | KQED","description":"Temescal already has its church of cheese and pantheon to pork, so now let us take a moment to welcome its latest arrival: a brand new cathedral for the carnivorously inclined: Clove and Hoof, a butcher and sandwich shop on the corner of Broadway and 40th Street.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Clove and Hoof: A New Butcher and Sandwich Shop in Oakland's Temescal","datePublished":"2014-12-16T18:24:05.000Z","dateModified":"2014-12-16T18:36:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"90972 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=90972","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/12/16/clove-and-hoof-a-new-butcher-and-sandwich-shop-in-oaklands-temescal/","disqusTitle":"Clove and Hoof: A New Butcher and Sandwich Shop in Oakland's Temescal","path":"/bayareabites/90972/clove-and-hoof-a-new-butcher-and-sandwich-shop-in-oaklands-temescal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52761-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52761-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of Clove and Hoof offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90981\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of Clove and Hoof offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/author/alix-wall/\" target=\"_blank\">Alix Wall\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2014/12/10/clove-and-hoof-a-meaty-addition-to-temescal/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeleyside NOSH\u003c/a> (12/10/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temescal already has its \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2014/06/30/oakland-mac-n-cheese-mecca-homeroom-expands/\" target=\"_blank\">church of cheese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2013/09/25/the-hogs-apothecary-not-an-insult-to-vegetarians/\" target=\"_blank\">pantheon to pork\u003c/a>, so now let us take a moment to welcome its latest arrival: a brand new cathedral for the carnivorously inclined: \u003ca href=\"http://cloveandhoofoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Clove and Hoof\u003c/a>, a butcher and sandwich shop on the corner of Broadway and 40th Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened by Analiesa Gosnell, the general manager and John Blevins, executive chef, the pair has a wealth of butchery experience, working at such places as Café Rouge and 4505 Meats between them, and most recently, studying butchery in France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clove and Hoof specializes in whole animal butchery, and its gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few, to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90977\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_5283-720x960.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_5283-720x960.jpg\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof: new to Temescal. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90977\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof: new to Temescal. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The interior offers a homey-kind of vibe, with plenty of counter seats facing the windows. The mismatched silverware and paper napkins sit in large cans on the tables. A refrigerator case full of meat stocks and house-made sauerkraut and kimchi greets you when you first line up at the counter, with multicolored jars of house-made pickles on shelves above them. Clearly, they are going for an old-time vibe as is evident by their beverage selection, which includes Milwaukee’s Best in the beer department, Boylan’s Seltzer and IBC Rootbeer for the soft drinks, as well as no one’s favorite, Yoo-Hoo chocolate drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the open kitchen, employees are both breaking down animals and making sandwiches. Toward the back, a glass case full of cookbooks holds an impressive collection, including the six-volume \u003cem>Modernist Cuisine\u003c/em> by Microsoft cofounder Nathan Myhrvoid, which retails for over $500. The message seems to be: “We aren’t f#%^&* around.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the place was still in soft opening when we visited, and its charcuterie program should be rolling out soon, with entrées and dinner service happening by early next year, the menu looked so enticing that as neighbors, we couldn’t help ourselves but stop in. We wanted to sample the sandwiches, and bring along some hungry friends with us. But given its soft opening mode, and the fact that they solicited feedback from us about our meal, let’s consider this a preview, rather than a review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90980\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52641-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52641-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"The Cuban: porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90980\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cuban: porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We had a choice of six sandos to choose from, five of them meat and one vegetarian. While it’s difficult to fathom why a vegetarian would come here, there are those occasions when one is in a larger group and gets overruled, and it’s great they are doing more than paying lip-service to veggies, as their one veg sandwich does sound worth trying: lager-steamed broccoli florets with warm beer cheese fondue, broccoli stem sauerkraut and pickled mustard seeds on a French hero roll. I don’t think I’ve ever had a broccoli cheese sandwich before, and with all the other offerings, it was a no-brainer that we were not going to choose this one, but I give them points for originality. I’ve also seen they do an egg salad with kimchi, but that was not on offer when we were there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90978\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52591-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/IMG_52591-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof’s gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90978\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof’s gleaming display case has multiple cuts and varieties of grass-fed animals from Jenner Family Beef and Magruder Lamb, to name a few. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you don’t want to read further, here’s the essential info: we loved what we ate and we will be back, though making this place a daily habit could be hazardous to one’s health. Here’s what we tried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cuban $14:\u003c/strong> porchetta di testa, smoked loin, roasted persimmon mustard, fermented dill pickles, and gruyere on a hero roll – this wasn’t your garden variety ham and cheese. It tasted more bacon-y – and therefore ,fatty – than a traditional Cuban. Because of the house-made mustard, the predominant flavor was sweet. Loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cheese Steak $15:\u003c/strong> thinly-sliced sirloin, onion confit, grilled trumpet mushrooms, pickled okra and warm beer cheese fondue on a hero roll. Given that a cheese steak is usually just a steak sandwich with cheese (or Cheese Whiz, in certain parts, like Philadelphia, where it originated) this was a vast improvement on the original. However, with the richness of the cheese fondue and mushrooms, we felt it tasted a bit like beef stroganoff in a roll. The pickled okra could have been played up to cut the richness, as it was barely noticed. Again, loved it, but not sure I’d order it again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.25-AM-720x536.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.25-AM-720x536.png\" alt=\"Clove and Hoof Burger: two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"536\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90983\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clove and Hoof Burger: two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Fried Chicken $13:\u003c/strong> with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. This sando was comprised of two juicy thighs, which by the time they were battered and fried, looked ginormous; with a salad, it could easily be split by two people. The chicken was still pink inside, rarer than most people like, but we didn’t find that to be a problem. We loved the sweetness the caramel added, as well as the tanginess of the pomegranate seeds. Barely tasted the Old Bay butter, but didn’t miss it. It takes guts to do a fried chicken sandwich within a mile of here without the inevitable comparisons to Bakesale Betty’s, but they’ve managed to come up with a worthy competitor. Loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.33-AM-720x541.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.33-AM-720x541.png\" alt=\"The Fried Chicken: with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"541\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90984\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Fried Chicken: with fish sauce caramel, Old Bay Butter, apple celery leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds on a French hero roll. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>C & H Burger $14:\u003c/strong> two 4-ounce beef patties, caramelized onion jam, pimento cheese, chopped romaine and pickle mayo on a rustic roll: Who doesn’t love a good burger? Unfortunately, this one is not in the running, yet. This was the least successful sandwich, it too wet, a bit of a mess, — and not in the finger-licking, good way – with the flavors muddled. A slice of cheese would have been preferred rather than a gloppy sauce. Also the patties themselves could have had more char. Liked it but didn’t love it. All sandos came with a small side salad of mixed greens, nothing fancy but a fine side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small serving of cassoulet at $4 was perhaps the best bargain on the menu, and one of the tastiest. Earthy and rich, it was perhaps overkill with sandwiches like these, but that’s kind of the point at a place like this, isn’t it? As were the hand-cut beef tallow fries $4, served with a side of (not enough) pickle mayo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.16-AM-720x541.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Screen-shot-2014-12-10-at-11.33.16-AM-720x541.png\" alt=\"A salad of shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"720\" height=\"541\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90982\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad of shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We split a salad four ways: shaved apples and persimmons, arugula, apple butter vinaigrette, Point Reyes blue crema and toasted walnuts $11, which was a great way to cut all the heaviness of the meal. The crema was in a puddle at the bottom, meaning I didn’t notice it until later, and actually loved the freshness of the salad even without the crema because it was such a needed contrast to everything else. The arugula/fruit/nut/cheese combo can seem so overdone, but there’s a reason there’s a version in so many restaurants, because it just works. The apple butter vinaigrette was a new twist, and it’s good to know that the vegetarian dishes here don’t get short shrift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But again, who would come to a place called Clove and Hoof to order a salad? When meat is offered this way, this consciously, with this much thought put to how it’s raised and what accoutrements best suit it, it’s almost a crime not to order it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://cloveandhoofoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Clove and Hoof\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>: \u003cstrong>4001 Broadway, Oakland. Open Wed–Sun 11am to 6pm. Connect with them on\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CloveAndHoof\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Facebook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>and\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/clove_and_hoof\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Twitter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/90972/clove-and-hoof-a-new-butcher-and-sandwich-shop-in-oaklands-temescal","authors":["5592"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_13813","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_8778","bayareabites_14016","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_8843"],"featImg":"bayareabites_90981","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_86531":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_86531","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"86531","score":null,"sort":[1410193602000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"newcomers-enhance-bay-areas-small-kosher-dining-scene","title":"Newcomers Enhance Bay Area's Small Kosher Dining Scene","publishDate":1410193602,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/kosher-popup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/kosher-popup.jpg\" alt=\"Guests at a recent kosher pop-up in San Francisco. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up in San Francisco. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is widely considered one of the best dining destinations in the country, if not the world. That is, unless you keep kosher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you observe the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewfaq.org/kashrut.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish dietary laws\u003c/a>-- meaning the meat must be slaughtered according to Jewish law, and dairy and meat cannot be served in the same dish, and pork and shellfish are forbidden-- it’s another story. Many Jewish tourists – and new Bay Area residents alike-- are flummoxed to learn that there are only four actual kosher restaurants in the entire Bay Area, three of them Israeli-style meat, and one of them Chinese vegan, and even this is up for debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Jewish delis exist-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/ingredients/article/the-best-new-jewish-delis-in-america\" target=\"_blank\">some of them earning high praise\u003c/a>-- none of them are kosher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We inherited a deli that was created by an expat New Yorker community,” said Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Saul’s Deli\u003c/a> in Berkeley, which despite its long history-- it became Saul’s in 1986, but was a Jewish deli since the 1950s-- serves house-made pastrami from local, sustainably-raised meat and smoked fish shipped in from Brooklyn. “What they wanted was what they left behind in New York and its suburban environs. Most were nostalgic for the food, but not the kosher life that they or their ancestors had already walked away from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years, in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://adka.org/sabra/#.U_ZyEcVdV8E\" target=\"_blank\">Sabra Grill\u003c/a>, a kosher meat restaurant, has been the only game in town. \u003ca href=\"http://www.shangrilavgrest.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Shangri-La Vegetarian\u003c/a> restaurant in the Outer Sunset is often listed in kosher directories, but despite its kosher seal of approval, many observant Jews won’t eat there. In 2010, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ambafalafel\" target=\"_blank\">Amba\u003c/a> opened in the Montclair section of Oakland. At first a vegetarian, dairy eatery, but a few months ago, it transitioned to a meat restaurant. And almost two years ago, the \u003ca href=\"http://jerusalemgrillbar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jerusalem Grill & Bar\u003c/a> opened in Campbell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s easy for me to complain because I don’t run a restaurant, and I’m very happy they’re there, but there’s very little choice,” said David Carasso, an Orthodox Jew who lives in San Rafael. “If I want French food, I have to make it. If I want Indian food, I have to make it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also noted that for most families, eating in a kosher restaurant is prohibitively expensive. Kosher observance has its different levels, though, and some Jews who identify with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.uscj.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Conservative movement\u003c/a>, say, will keep a kosher kitchen at home, and are willing to eat in non-kosher restaurants, but only a vegetarian or fish dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carasso does not fall into that category, however, he either patronizes kosher restaurants, or does not go out at all. “Yes, it’s frustrating,” he said. “There have been times that a friend and I have driven to L.A. just to go to five or six restaurants; we’ll eat a hamburger at one, ribs at another, onion rings at another, and then drive back up in the same day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbi Ben-Tzion Welton, chief executive officer of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunrisekosher.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Vaad Hakashrus of Northern California\u003c/a>, which supervises the three kosher meat restaurants, estimates that only six percent of the Bay Area’s Jews are observant. “And there are no real Jewish neighborhoods anymore,” he said. “The Jewish community is so spread out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He continued, “The Israeli food is good, but people want more than that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past few years, a few entrepreneurial types have stepped in to expand the existing options. Not with brick-and-mortar establishments, but with delivery service and small-scale catering and pop-up dinners, looking to appeal to those kosher diners who are looking for something beyond the usual falafel and shwarma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/yitz1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/yitz1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Isaac Bernstein explains a dish on his tasting menu at the Haimish Wandering Kitchen kosher pop-up recently. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87134\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Isaac Bernstein explains a dish on his tasting menu at the Haimish Wandering Kitchen kosher pop-up recently. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the “Haimish (Yiddish for friendly, or homey) Wandering Kitchen” which took place at San Francisco’s School of Digital Filmmaking recently, about 30 diners were treated to a 10-course tasting menu (disclosure: I was a guest) by Oakland-based Chef Isaac Bernstein of \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicbitescatering.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Epic Bites Catering\u003c/a>, with kosher wine pairings poured by Jonathan Hadju, associate winemaker for the kosher winery \u003ca href=\"https://www.covenantwines.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Covenant\u003c/a> – begun in Napa, now in Berkeley – and who makes some of his \u003ca href=\"http://hajduwines.com/\" target=\"_blank\">own label\u003c/a> wines as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87141\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitztuna1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitztuna1000.jpg\" alt=\"This tuna loin with mint and pistachio pesto and citrus zest fermented with chiles was a course at the kosher pop-up. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87141\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This tuna loin with mint and pistachio pesto and citrus zest fermented with chiles was another course at the kosher pop-up. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Highlights included a tuna loin dusted with pistachio and mint pesto and what Bernstein called “California Kosho,” which he described as citrus zest fermented with chiles; lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini; and duck breast with a balsamic reduction, blueberry compote, pluot slice and sweet yam fritters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitzlambbelly1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitzlambbelly1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Isaac Bernstein of Epic Bites served this lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up recently, taking San Francisco’s kosher dining scene to new heights. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87138\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Isaac Bernstein of Epic Bites served this lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up recently, taking San Francisco’s kosher dining scene to new heights. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bernstein spares no expense; he ships his pasture-raised, sustainably-raised kosher meat from \u003ca href=\"http://growandbehold.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Grow & Behold\u003c/a> in New York, and gets most of his produce from local, organic farms. He uses duck fat liberally, instead of butter, which is forbidden in a meat meal, and bottles his own vinegars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernstein grew up in the religious enclave of Monsey, New York, and left his observant upbringing for a time to attend the French Culinary Institute, specializing in bread-baking. On an apprenticeship at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfbi.com/\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, he fell in love with the Bay Area. Now living in Oakland, he makes his living catering weddings and bar mitzvahs – many of his clients are not kosher themselves, but have enough kosher guests at their event to warrant kosher food – but he also offers take-out Sabbath meals and does the occasional pop-up, from which he barely earns anything; he does it mostly because he and his staff thrive on the experimental nature of these dinners. At the outset, he admitted he had 60 different components in the kitchen, and would decide in the moment which to pair with each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These dinners also raise a lot of awareness for my business, as well as kosher food in general, because kosher food has a huge negative stigma here more than anywhere else I’ve ever been,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernstein hopes to eventually open a kosher restaurant in the East Bay, but would only do so with buy-in from the community. “Kosher catering is the only way to make a good living,” he said. “I will never open a restaurant that’s not funded by the community. They have to understand that especially outside of the tri-state area – meaning New York, New Jersey and Connecticut – opening a kosher restaurant is philanthropy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the Haimish Wandering Kitchen, Bernstein teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.chabadsf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Chabad of S.F. Rabbi Yosef Langer\u003c/a>, who had a different goal, to build community, though he too talked about wanting to change the image of what kosher food can be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We need to school the Jewish community that kosher food isn’t only gefilte fish in a jar,” said Langer. “Every Jewish community should have a pizzeria and a meat restaurant with the finest quality and presentation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, one diner by the name of Leon Leib Kushner, was so pleased with the evening, that he stood up spontaneously to make a toast, saying eating kosher food of this level felt like a holiday. “My wish is that it won’t be a struggle for my grandchildren to keep kosher in San Francisco,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi2-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi2-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbi Alex Shandrovsky has started L’Chaim Sushi, which is also offering kosher diners another option. Here he is pictured with one of his sushi chefs, Jagun Ney. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87142\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rabbi Alex Shandrovsky has started L’Chaim Sushi, which is also offering kosher diners another option. Here he is pictured with one of his sushi chefs, Jagun Ney. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another newcomer to the scene is \u003ca href=\"http://www.lchaimsushi.com/\" target=\"_blank\">L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/a>, run by an Orthodox rabbi, Alex Shandrovsky. Begun at the start of last year, Shandrovsky came up with the idea because as a Russian émigré, he grew up in San Francisco on sushi and loved it, but could no longer eat it once he became observant in his 20s. While he started in a synagogue kitchen, his business is now housed in South San Francisco, at his supplier, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfrhs.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Royal Hawaiian Seafood\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shandrovsky calls himself the only kosher sustainable sushi business – he is advised by San Francisco’s sustainable sushi restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tataki\u003c/a>’s sustainability guru Casson Trenor-- and says he serves the highest quality fish, just those with fins and scales, as kosher law dictates, and of course no shellfish (though California rolls with fake crab are allowed, since the fake crab is made from seasoned pollock).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi3-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi3-1000.jpg\" alt=\"If you hire L’Chaim Sushi to cater an event, you may get a platter like this. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87143\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If you hire L’Chaim Sushi to cater an event, you may get a platter like this. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His is mostly a delivery operation; he delivers to corporate clients in the city and numerous tech companies in the South Bay, with a $120 minimum. He also does on-site parties, events and workshops, where he uses sushi as a vehicle for Jewish education. Orders of any size can be picked up. He is also now working with sites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.grubhub.com/\" target=\"_blank\">GrubHub\u003c/a>, which delivers smaller orders than he will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has one full-time sushi chef working for him with two others on call for events, and now is reaching into the special diet market. “Many people have special diets, and sushi is a great cuisine for those people,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>L’Chaim gives 10 percent of all its proceeds to charities, half to an \u003ca href=\"http://leket.org.il/english/\" target=\"_blank\">Israeli food bank\u003c/a>, and the S.F.-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.jfcs.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish Children’s and Family Services\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And come September, there will be a seating area in their facility, which is five minutes from San Francisco International Airport, making it especially convenient for tourists who may need kosher food for the plane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that the newcomers are doing so well can be attributed to not being tied down to a restaurant, and the fact that they are offering something other than Israeli food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabracombo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabracombo1000.jpg\" alt=\"This combination plate with falafel, humus, babaganoush and fried eggplant is popular among vegetarians at Sabra Grill. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87144\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This combination plate with falafel, humus, babaganoush and fried eggplant is popular among vegetarians at Sabra Grill. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sabra Grill, which has been operating in S.F.’s Chinatown since 1997, is owned by Israeli transplant Eitan Hilleli. For years, Sabra didn’t have the best reputation, as Hilleli took a break from running the restaurant, handing over operations to his nephew. But he recently returned. “I clean it, I fix it, I put my heart here,” he said. Locals say the food has gotten better, too. Given his location, many of his clients are tourists in high season, he says, and Friday afternoons, kosher customers can be seen trekking to Chinatown to bring his kosher food back to their hotels for a Sabbath dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu consists of Israeli favorites like chicken, lamb or beef skewers, falafel, and numerous Middle Eastern salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87145\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabraeitan700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabraeitan700.jpg\" alt=\"Sabra Grill’s Eitan Hilleli mans the stove of Sabra Grill with his son Joseph. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87145\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sabra Grill’s Eitan Hilleli mans the stove of Sabra Grill with his son Joseph. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given that his meat and pitas come from Los Angeles, and he has to pay the mashgiach (kosher supervisor) and like most kosher establishments, is closed half a day Friday and all of Saturday for the Sabbath, he says, not to mention almost a month’s worth of Jewish holidays, margins are slim. “It’s not easy,” he said. “It’s not to make money, but it’s to serve the community, it’s a mitzvah (good deed.)”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambawornick1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambawornick1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Wornick opened Amba for the East Bay’s Jewish community. Photo: Amba\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87148\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Wornick opened Amba for the East Bay’s Jewish community. Photo: Amba\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was a theme seconded by Amba’s owner Jonathan Wornick, who opened his restaurant not for an income source, but for community-building. Interestingly, Wornick and his family are strict vegetarians, and when they opened Amba, it was vegetarian as well, selling mostly falafel and sabich (fried eggplant and hard-boiled egg) sandwiches. But over time, those who patronized it said they would prefer a meat restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For those who keep kosher but will eat out, they already felt they could eat vegetarian at most restaurants,” said Wornick. “But there was nowhere in the East Bay where they could eat kosher meat, out. Despite my own issues around it, it made sense, since people are going to eat meat anyhow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambachickenschnitzel-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambachickenschnitzel-final.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken schnitzel is a popular dish on the Amba menu. Photo: Amba\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87146\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken schnitzel is a popular dish on the Amba menu. Photo: Amba\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wornick said he enjoys seeing various people from all sectors of the Jewish community at Amba, “that’s what makes me most proud.” Staff from various Jewish organizations have meetings there, and it’s the kind of place where patrons can count on running into people they know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to falafel and sabich, Amba serves Israeli favorites like chicken schnitzel and shwarma, and numerous salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/erez-knobler.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/erez-knobler.jpg\" alt=\"Erez Knobler opened Jerusalem Grill & Bar in Campbell almost two years ago, bringing the Bay Area’s total of kosher Israeli-style restaurants to three. Photo: Andy Altman-Ohr/jweekly.com\" width=\"480\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87137\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Erez Knobler opened Jerusalem Grill & Bar in Campbell almost two years ago, bringing the Bay Area’s total of kosher Israeli-style restaurants to three. Photo: Andy Altman-Ohr/jweekly.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://jerusalemgrillbar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jerusalem Grill\u003c/a> is the newest addition. Located in Campbell, it was started by Israeli transplant Erez Knobler, who also helps manage an aromatherapy product business. While he couldn’t be reached by Bay Area Bites, word on the street is the Israeli menu is huge, and also features a number of different meat skewers, falafel and various salads. Knowing that kosher Jews have so few options, the restaurant does themed nights as well, such as Chinese or Mexican.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Shangri-La Vegetarian Restaurant in the Outer Sunset has kosher certification from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishinsanfrancisco.com/Orthodox-Rabbinical-Council-of-San-Francisco.html\" target=\"_blank\">Orthodox Rabbinical Council of San Francisco\u003c/a>, most observant Jews only look to the Vaad HaKashrus of Northern California (which certifies both Epic Bites and L’Chaim Sushi as well) for where it's okay for them to eat. Therefore, those I spoke to, won't patronize it, but those less strict do.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Bay Area is known as one of the country's premier dining destinations, unless you keep kosher. For those who observe Jewish dietary laws, it's not so great. But things are slowly improving.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1410220518,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":38,"wordCount":2443},"headData":{"title":"Newcomers Enhance Bay Area's Small Kosher Dining Scene | KQED","description":"The Bay Area is known as one of the country's premier dining destinations, unless you keep kosher. For those who observe Jewish dietary laws, it's not so great. But things are slowly improving.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Newcomers Enhance Bay Area's Small Kosher Dining Scene","datePublished":"2014-09-08T16:26:42.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-08T23:55:18.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"86531 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=86531","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/09/08/newcomers-enhance-bay-areas-small-kosher-dining-scene/","disqusTitle":"Newcomers Enhance Bay Area's Small Kosher Dining Scene","path":"/bayareabites/86531/newcomers-enhance-bay-areas-small-kosher-dining-scene","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/kosher-popup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/kosher-popup.jpg\" alt=\"Guests at a recent kosher pop-up in San Francisco. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up in San Francisco. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is widely considered one of the best dining destinations in the country, if not the world. That is, unless you keep kosher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you observe the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewfaq.org/kashrut.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish dietary laws\u003c/a>-- meaning the meat must be slaughtered according to Jewish law, and dairy and meat cannot be served in the same dish, and pork and shellfish are forbidden-- it’s another story. Many Jewish tourists – and new Bay Area residents alike-- are flummoxed to learn that there are only four actual kosher restaurants in the entire Bay Area, three of them Israeli-style meat, and one of them Chinese vegan, and even this is up for debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Jewish delis exist-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/ingredients/article/the-best-new-jewish-delis-in-america\" target=\"_blank\">some of them earning high praise\u003c/a>-- none of them are kosher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We inherited a deli that was created by an expat New Yorker community,” said Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Saul’s Deli\u003c/a> in Berkeley, which despite its long history-- it became Saul’s in 1986, but was a Jewish deli since the 1950s-- serves house-made pastrami from local, sustainably-raised meat and smoked fish shipped in from Brooklyn. “What they wanted was what they left behind in New York and its suburban environs. Most were nostalgic for the food, but not the kosher life that they or their ancestors had already walked away from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years, in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://adka.org/sabra/#.U_ZyEcVdV8E\" target=\"_blank\">Sabra Grill\u003c/a>, a kosher meat restaurant, has been the only game in town. \u003ca href=\"http://www.shangrilavgrest.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Shangri-La Vegetarian\u003c/a> restaurant in the Outer Sunset is often listed in kosher directories, but despite its kosher seal of approval, many observant Jews won’t eat there. In 2010, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ambafalafel\" target=\"_blank\">Amba\u003c/a> opened in the Montclair section of Oakland. At first a vegetarian, dairy eatery, but a few months ago, it transitioned to a meat restaurant. And almost two years ago, the \u003ca href=\"http://jerusalemgrillbar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jerusalem Grill & Bar\u003c/a> opened in Campbell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s easy for me to complain because I don’t run a restaurant, and I’m very happy they’re there, but there’s very little choice,” said David Carasso, an Orthodox Jew who lives in San Rafael. “If I want French food, I have to make it. If I want Indian food, I have to make it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also noted that for most families, eating in a kosher restaurant is prohibitively expensive. Kosher observance has its different levels, though, and some Jews who identify with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.uscj.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Conservative movement\u003c/a>, say, will keep a kosher kitchen at home, and are willing to eat in non-kosher restaurants, but only a vegetarian or fish dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carasso does not fall into that category, however, he either patronizes kosher restaurants, or does not go out at all. “Yes, it’s frustrating,” he said. “There have been times that a friend and I have driven to L.A. just to go to five or six restaurants; we’ll eat a hamburger at one, ribs at another, onion rings at another, and then drive back up in the same day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbi Ben-Tzion Welton, chief executive officer of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunrisekosher.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Vaad Hakashrus of Northern California\u003c/a>, which supervises the three kosher meat restaurants, estimates that only six percent of the Bay Area’s Jews are observant. “And there are no real Jewish neighborhoods anymore,” he said. “The Jewish community is so spread out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He continued, “The Israeli food is good, but people want more than that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past few years, a few entrepreneurial types have stepped in to expand the existing options. Not with brick-and-mortar establishments, but with delivery service and small-scale catering and pop-up dinners, looking to appeal to those kosher diners who are looking for something beyond the usual falafel and shwarma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/yitz1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/yitz1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Isaac Bernstein explains a dish on his tasting menu at the Haimish Wandering Kitchen kosher pop-up recently. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87134\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Isaac Bernstein explains a dish on his tasting menu at the Haimish Wandering Kitchen kosher pop-up recently. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the “Haimish (Yiddish for friendly, or homey) Wandering Kitchen” which took place at San Francisco’s School of Digital Filmmaking recently, about 30 diners were treated to a 10-course tasting menu (disclosure: I was a guest) by Oakland-based Chef Isaac Bernstein of \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicbitescatering.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Epic Bites Catering\u003c/a>, with kosher wine pairings poured by Jonathan Hadju, associate winemaker for the kosher winery \u003ca href=\"https://www.covenantwines.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Covenant\u003c/a> – begun in Napa, now in Berkeley – and who makes some of his \u003ca href=\"http://hajduwines.com/\" target=\"_blank\">own label\u003c/a> wines as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87141\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitztuna1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitztuna1000.jpg\" alt=\"This tuna loin with mint and pistachio pesto and citrus zest fermented with chiles was a course at the kosher pop-up. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87141\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This tuna loin with mint and pistachio pesto and citrus zest fermented with chiles was another course at the kosher pop-up. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Highlights included a tuna loin dusted with pistachio and mint pesto and what Bernstein called “California Kosho,” which he described as citrus zest fermented with chiles; lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini; and duck breast with a balsamic reduction, blueberry compote, pluot slice and sweet yam fritters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitzlambbelly1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/yitzlambbelly1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Isaac Bernstein of Epic Bites served this lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up recently, taking San Francisco’s kosher dining scene to new heights. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87138\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Isaac Bernstein of Epic Bites served this lamb belly cooked for 24 hours, pressed and cured, with a fig and fennel compote, champagne grapes and a black garlic tahini at the “Haimish Wandering Kitchen” kosher pop-up recently, taking San Francisco’s kosher dining scene to new heights. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bernstein spares no expense; he ships his pasture-raised, sustainably-raised kosher meat from \u003ca href=\"http://growandbehold.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Grow & Behold\u003c/a> in New York, and gets most of his produce from local, organic farms. He uses duck fat liberally, instead of butter, which is forbidden in a meat meal, and bottles his own vinegars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernstein grew up in the religious enclave of Monsey, New York, and left his observant upbringing for a time to attend the French Culinary Institute, specializing in bread-baking. On an apprenticeship at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfbi.com/\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, he fell in love with the Bay Area. Now living in Oakland, he makes his living catering weddings and bar mitzvahs – many of his clients are not kosher themselves, but have enough kosher guests at their event to warrant kosher food – but he also offers take-out Sabbath meals and does the occasional pop-up, from which he barely earns anything; he does it mostly because he and his staff thrive on the experimental nature of these dinners. At the outset, he admitted he had 60 different components in the kitchen, and would decide in the moment which to pair with each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These dinners also raise a lot of awareness for my business, as well as kosher food in general, because kosher food has a huge negative stigma here more than anywhere else I’ve ever been,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernstein hopes to eventually open a kosher restaurant in the East Bay, but would only do so with buy-in from the community. “Kosher catering is the only way to make a good living,” he said. “I will never open a restaurant that’s not funded by the community. They have to understand that especially outside of the tri-state area – meaning New York, New Jersey and Connecticut – opening a kosher restaurant is philanthropy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the Haimish Wandering Kitchen, Bernstein teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.chabadsf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Chabad of S.F. Rabbi Yosef Langer\u003c/a>, who had a different goal, to build community, though he too talked about wanting to change the image of what kosher food can be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We need to school the Jewish community that kosher food isn’t only gefilte fish in a jar,” said Langer. “Every Jewish community should have a pizzeria and a meat restaurant with the finest quality and presentation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, one diner by the name of Leon Leib Kushner, was so pleased with the evening, that he stood up spontaneously to make a toast, saying eating kosher food of this level felt like a holiday. “My wish is that it won’t be a struggle for my grandchildren to keep kosher in San Francisco,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi2-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi2-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbi Alex Shandrovsky has started L’Chaim Sushi, which is also offering kosher diners another option. Here he is pictured with one of his sushi chefs, Jagun Ney. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87142\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rabbi Alex Shandrovsky has started L’Chaim Sushi, which is also offering kosher diners another option. Here he is pictured with one of his sushi chefs, Jagun Ney. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another newcomer to the scene is \u003ca href=\"http://www.lchaimsushi.com/\" target=\"_blank\">L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/a>, run by an Orthodox rabbi, Alex Shandrovsky. Begun at the start of last year, Shandrovsky came up with the idea because as a Russian émigré, he grew up in San Francisco on sushi and loved it, but could no longer eat it once he became observant in his 20s. While he started in a synagogue kitchen, his business is now housed in South San Francisco, at his supplier, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfrhs.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Royal Hawaiian Seafood\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shandrovsky calls himself the only kosher sustainable sushi business – he is advised by San Francisco’s sustainable sushi restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tataki\u003c/a>’s sustainability guru Casson Trenor-- and says he serves the highest quality fish, just those with fins and scales, as kosher law dictates, and of course no shellfish (though California rolls with fake crab are allowed, since the fake crab is made from seasoned pollock).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi3-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sushi3-1000.jpg\" alt=\"If you hire L’Chaim Sushi to cater an event, you may get a platter like this. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87143\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If you hire L’Chaim Sushi to cater an event, you may get a platter like this. Photo: L’Chaim Sushi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His is mostly a delivery operation; he delivers to corporate clients in the city and numerous tech companies in the South Bay, with a $120 minimum. He also does on-site parties, events and workshops, where he uses sushi as a vehicle for Jewish education. Orders of any size can be picked up. He is also now working with sites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.grubhub.com/\" target=\"_blank\">GrubHub\u003c/a>, which delivers smaller orders than he will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has one full-time sushi chef working for him with two others on call for events, and now is reaching into the special diet market. “Many people have special diets, and sushi is a great cuisine for those people,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>L’Chaim gives 10 percent of all its proceeds to charities, half to an \u003ca href=\"http://leket.org.il/english/\" target=\"_blank\">Israeli food bank\u003c/a>, and the S.F.-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.jfcs.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish Children’s and Family Services\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And come September, there will be a seating area in their facility, which is five minutes from San Francisco International Airport, making it especially convenient for tourists who may need kosher food for the plane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that the newcomers are doing so well can be attributed to not being tied down to a restaurant, and the fact that they are offering something other than Israeli food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabracombo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabracombo1000.jpg\" alt=\"This combination plate with falafel, humus, babaganoush and fried eggplant is popular among vegetarians at Sabra Grill. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87144\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This combination plate with falafel, humus, babaganoush and fried eggplant is popular among vegetarians at Sabra Grill. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sabra Grill, which has been operating in S.F.’s Chinatown since 1997, is owned by Israeli transplant Eitan Hilleli. For years, Sabra didn’t have the best reputation, as Hilleli took a break from running the restaurant, handing over operations to his nephew. But he recently returned. “I clean it, I fix it, I put my heart here,” he said. Locals say the food has gotten better, too. Given his location, many of his clients are tourists in high season, he says, and Friday afternoons, kosher customers can be seen trekking to Chinatown to bring his kosher food back to their hotels for a Sabbath dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu consists of Israeli favorites like chicken, lamb or beef skewers, falafel, and numerous Middle Eastern salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87145\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabraeitan700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/sabraeitan700.jpg\" alt=\"Sabra Grill’s Eitan Hilleli mans the stove of Sabra Grill with his son Joseph. Photo: Alix Wall\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87145\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sabra Grill’s Eitan Hilleli mans the stove of Sabra Grill with his son Joseph. Photo: Alix Wall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given that his meat and pitas come from Los Angeles, and he has to pay the mashgiach (kosher supervisor) and like most kosher establishments, is closed half a day Friday and all of Saturday for the Sabbath, he says, not to mention almost a month’s worth of Jewish holidays, margins are slim. “It’s not easy,” he said. “It’s not to make money, but it’s to serve the community, it’s a mitzvah (good deed.)”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambawornick1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambawornick1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Wornick opened Amba for the East Bay’s Jewish community. Photo: Amba\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87148\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Wornick opened Amba for the East Bay’s Jewish community. Photo: Amba\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was a theme seconded by Amba’s owner Jonathan Wornick, who opened his restaurant not for an income source, but for community-building. Interestingly, Wornick and his family are strict vegetarians, and when they opened Amba, it was vegetarian as well, selling mostly falafel and sabich (fried eggplant and hard-boiled egg) sandwiches. But over time, those who patronized it said they would prefer a meat restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For those who keep kosher but will eat out, they already felt they could eat vegetarian at most restaurants,” said Wornick. “But there was nowhere in the East Bay where they could eat kosher meat, out. Despite my own issues around it, it made sense, since people are going to eat meat anyhow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambachickenschnitzel-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/ambachickenschnitzel-final.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken schnitzel is a popular dish on the Amba menu. Photo: Amba\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87146\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken schnitzel is a popular dish on the Amba menu. Photo: Amba\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wornick said he enjoys seeing various people from all sectors of the Jewish community at Amba, “that’s what makes me most proud.” Staff from various Jewish organizations have meetings there, and it’s the kind of place where patrons can count on running into people they know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to falafel and sabich, Amba serves Israeli favorites like chicken schnitzel and shwarma, and numerous salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/erez-knobler.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/erez-knobler.jpg\" alt=\"Erez Knobler opened Jerusalem Grill & Bar in Campbell almost two years ago, bringing the Bay Area’s total of kosher Israeli-style restaurants to three. Photo: Andy Altman-Ohr/jweekly.com\" width=\"480\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87137\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Erez Knobler opened Jerusalem Grill & Bar in Campbell almost two years ago, bringing the Bay Area’s total of kosher Israeli-style restaurants to three. Photo: Andy Altman-Ohr/jweekly.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://jerusalemgrillbar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jerusalem Grill\u003c/a> is the newest addition. Located in Campbell, it was started by Israeli transplant Erez Knobler, who also helps manage an aromatherapy product business. While he couldn’t be reached by Bay Area Bites, word on the street is the Israeli menu is huge, and also features a number of different meat skewers, falafel and various salads. Knowing that kosher Jews have so few options, the restaurant does themed nights as well, such as Chinese or Mexican.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Shangri-La Vegetarian Restaurant in the Outer Sunset has kosher certification from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishinsanfrancisco.com/Orthodox-Rabbinical-Council-of-San-Francisco.html\" target=\"_blank\">Orthodox Rabbinical Council of San Francisco\u003c/a>, most observant Jews only look to the Vaad HaKashrus of Northern California (which certifies both Epic Bites and L’Chaim Sushi as well) for where it's okay for them to eat. Therefore, those I spoke to, won't patronize it, but those less strict do.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/86531/newcomers-enhance-bay-areas-small-kosher-dining-scene","authors":["5567"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_12493","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366"],"tags":["bayareabites_13777","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_13780","bayareabites_13776","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_13731","bayareabites_2042","bayareabites_13779","bayareabites_13778","bayareabites_11381","bayareabites_336"],"featImg":"bayareabites_87142","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_58466":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_58466","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"58466","score":null,"sort":[1365321848000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","title":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi","publishDate":1365321848,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1365549929,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1174},"headData":{"title":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi | KQED","description":"Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi","datePublished":"2013-04-07T08:04:08.000Z","dateModified":"2013-04-09T23:25:29.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"58466 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=58466","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/07/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi/","disqusTitle":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi","path":"/bayareabites/58466/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/58466/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_8462","bayareabites_9157","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_11491","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_10171","bayareabites_11436","bayareabites_11490","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_11489"],"featImg":"bayareabites_59583","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_39260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_39260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"39260","score":null,"sort":[1330116175000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"on-the-plate-with-wise-sons-jewish-deli","title":"On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli","publishDate":1330116175,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of Wise Sons -- the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1330375568,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":852},"headData":{"title":"On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli | KQED","description":"Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of Wise Sons -- the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli","datePublished":"2012-02-24T20:42:55.000Z","dateModified":"2012-02-27T20:46:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"39260 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=39260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/24/on-the-plate-with-wise-sons-jewish-deli/","disqusTitle":"On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli","path":"/bayareabites/39260/on-the-plate-with-wise-sons-jewish-deli","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/39260/on-the-plate-with-wise-sons-jewish-deli","authors":["5288"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_10171","bayareabites_3662","bayareabites_229","bayareabites_9156"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_10677":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_10677","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"10677","score":null,"sort":[1266796265000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"who-owns-the-deli","title":"Who Owns the Deli? ","publishDate":1266796265,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/storefront500.jpg\" alt=\"Sauls Restaurant and Delicatessen \" title=\"Sauls Restaurant and Delicatessen \" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10719\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who guards the culinary heritage of a culture? Where does authenticity reside, and who decides what it is? Can traditional foods change with the times, and if they do, are they still traditional? Can handmade salami made from grass-fed beef still call up memories of Grandma's Saturday-morning scrambled eggs and salami? In this age of massive multinational conglomerates, does brand loyalty mean anything anymore? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/housemade-soda500.jpg\" alt=\"housemade soda\" title=\"housemade soda\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10727\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's better-- the Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray tonic in the bottle you remember Grandpa drinking, now with high-fructose corn syrup included, or homemade celery soda infused with real celery seed, with less sugar and no packaging? How much do we pay-- in food miles, in feedlots, in calories-- for nostalgia? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All these questions, and more, were in the air at the \u003ca href=\"http://prod.jcceastbay.org/\">Jewish Community Center of the East Bay\u003c/a> in early February, as an overflow crowd squeezed into the main auditorium for a panel discussion on \"Referendum on The Deli Menu\" (Can the Jewish Deli be sustainable?) sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>. Saul's, for those of you born without cravings for matzoh ball soup, is Berkeley's big, busy, much-loved Jewish deli. But ever since Karen Adelman and her husband Peter Levitt bought the deli in 1995, they've had what they call \"a stealthy, secret mission\" operating alongside their dedication to borscht and blintzes, corned beef and chicken in a pot. Their secret? A desire to pull the deli in line with contemporary attitudes about food and consumption, rather than letting it ossify like gefilte fish left too long in the fridge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/karenadelman-peterlevitt500.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt - owners of Sauls\" title=\"Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt - owners of Sauls\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10721\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, towering sandwiches were slimmed down, no longer stacked with jaw-defying stacks of meat. Meats became sustainably ranched, grass-fed when possible. Vegetables started to come from local farms. Corn-syruped drinks were out; housemade sodas were in. Most recently, salami was dropped from the menu; Hebrew National, the only widely available brand of all-beef salami, is now owned by giant Con Agra. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matzoball-soup500.jpg\" alt=\"matzo ball soup made from pastured chicken\" title=\"matzo ball soup made from pastured chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10722\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This being Berkeley, you'd think pasture-raised chicken soup would earn nothing but mazel tovs. But not everyone, it seemed, wanted consciousness-raising alongside their blintzes and brisket. There was pushback from some customers, and an overall question: How much could a deli change and still be a deli? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/grassfed-brisket500.jpg\" alt=\"grassfed brisket butterball potatoes and Riverdog chard\" title=\"grassfed brisket butterball potatoes and Riverdog chard\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10720\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the referendum, featuring Karen and Paul in conversation with Saul's regular and local superstar \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelpollan.com/\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>; green-business maven \u003ca href=\"http://www.natlogic.com/resources/publications/the-truth-about-green-business/\">Gil Friend\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityslickerfarms.org\">City Slickers Farms\u003c/a> founder (and self-described \"pastrami addict\" Willow Rosenthal, the whole moderated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kcrw.com/people/kleiman_evan?role=host\">Evan Kleinman\u003c/a>, host of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kcrw.com/etc/programs/gf\">KRCW's Good Food\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having heard the phrase \"2 Jews, 3 opinions\" tossed around by my opinionated, argue-for-the-sake-of-it relatives all my life, I was ready for some Talmudic-level conflict, some heated words exchanged in the interest of radical change vs. How Bubbe Did It. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, though, everyone on the panel agreed on nearly everything. Nostalgia is no excuse for a lack of conscience; if you care about eating locally, organically, sustainably and/or humanely at home, why should a Jewish deli give you a free pass to wallow in feedlot beef or syrupy soda? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Said Peter, \"We started with not wanting to sell meat we wouldn't eat. We want to drag the deli out of the museum, let it breathe with the seasons for a change.\" Right now, his challenge is corned beef: the grass-fed beef from local Marin Sun Farms, delicious as it is, isn't holding up to the 2- to 3-week brining process. It's been coming out dry and crumbly, probably due to being more muscled and less fatty that typical feedlot beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's the menu problem: Saul's, like most delis, has a huge menu. There's the everyday menu, an equally long, but more international, seasonally-inspired specials menu, and then the \"secret\" menu of the more hard-core, Old World items--flanken, kishkes, things made with schmaltz and braised in gravy. Peter would like to see the menu shortened and made more manageable (and cost-effective); if that means no cold beet borscht in winter, so be it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Karen, \"I think we should be leading, not just reacting. We're hungry for meaning and community, along with comfort food. We need to connect with our future as well as our past. I promise, no one will leave hungry!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, even in Berkeley, there's room to toe more than one party line. If this were New York City, or Los Angeles, where deli culture, while battered, is still alive, one deli's decision to nix the salami would hardly generate SRO crowds at the 92nd St Y. But delis are few in the Bay Area, and so Saul's clientele takes any changes personally . But if there are Hebrew National fans and lox diehards out there, they're keeping quiet; the crowd claps and nods along with just about everything Pollan, Rosenthal, and Friend present, even recoiling a little in genteel horror at brightly colored slides of jaw-defying pastrami sandwiches teetering higher than Lady Gaga's heels. Those massive sandwiches, long the symbol of post-war abundance, a meaty slap in the face to immigrant privation, are no longer sustainable; as Peter points out, there's no way to provide that much meat, particularly if it's good, humanely raised meat, at a price regular customers can bear. \"Those huge sandwiches are killing the deli. You can't make money selling 12 oz of meat for $10 or $15. At a steakhouse, you'd pay $30 or $40 for that much meat, and you'd buy a bottle of wine.\" Instead, Karen and Peter want to offer their customers alternatives that taste good, with a little patient explanation to help it along. Already, the menu emphasizes smoked trout (farmed) over overfished salmon, and more and more Mediterranean inspired salads and vegetable dishes to go along with the potato pancakes and cheesecake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pollan, for one, sees the democratization of the food movement as a very good thing. \"Getting sustainable food into delis, taquerias, cheaper places, that's great because it makes it more accessible to everyone.\" Agrees Friend, \"We vote with our dollars every day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the deli is our secular synagogue, as Pollan muses, clearly this one is reform, maybe even reconstructionist. So fizz up an egg cream or raise a glass of borscht, and toast the new deli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VIDEO CLIP OF EVENT:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,0,0\" width=\"400\" height=\"264\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"webhost=fora.tv&clipid=11451&cliptype=clip\">\u003cparam name=\"allowScriptAccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://fora.tv/embedded_player\">\u003cembed flashvars=\"webhost=fora.tv&clipid=11451&cliptype=clip\" src=\"http://fora.tv/embedded_player\" width=\"400\" height=\"264\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" pluginspage=\"http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos provided by \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Posts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ethicurean.com/2010/02/15/jewish-deli/\">Saul's got SOLE: The Jewish deli in Berkeley evolves\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nby \u003cem>Marc R. aka Mental Masala\u003c/em> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ethicurean.com/\">The Ethicurean\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/02/18/referendum-on-the-deli-menu-at-saul%E2%80%99s-restaurant-and-delicatessen-what-is-tradition/\">Referendum on the Deli Menu at Saul's Restaurant and Delicatessen: What is Tradition?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nby Vanessa Barrington at \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Is the 21st century deli still your grandmother's deli? Can pastrami love and food consciousness coexist? The owners of Saul's held a referendum at the Jewish Community Center of the East Bay to find out. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1266796326,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1127},"headData":{"title":"Who Owns the Deli? | KQED","description":"Is the 21st century deli still your grandmother's deli? Can pastrami love and food consciousness coexist? The owners of Saul's held a referendum at the Jewish Community Center of the East Bay to find out. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Who Owns the Deli? ","datePublished":"2010-02-21T23:51:05.000Z","dateModified":"2010-02-21T23:52:06.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"10677 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=10677","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/21/who-owns-the-deli/","disqusTitle":"Who Owns the Deli? ","path":"/bayareabites/10677/who-owns-the-deli","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/storefront500.jpg\" alt=\"Sauls Restaurant and Delicatessen \" title=\"Sauls Restaurant and Delicatessen \" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10719\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who guards the culinary heritage of a culture? Where does authenticity reside, and who decides what it is? Can traditional foods change with the times, and if they do, are they still traditional? Can handmade salami made from grass-fed beef still call up memories of Grandma's Saturday-morning scrambled eggs and salami? In this age of massive multinational conglomerates, does brand loyalty mean anything anymore? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/housemade-soda500.jpg\" alt=\"housemade soda\" title=\"housemade soda\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10727\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's better-- the Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray tonic in the bottle you remember Grandpa drinking, now with high-fructose corn syrup included, or homemade celery soda infused with real celery seed, with less sugar and no packaging? How much do we pay-- in food miles, in feedlots, in calories-- for nostalgia? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All these questions, and more, were in the air at the \u003ca href=\"http://prod.jcceastbay.org/\">Jewish Community Center of the East Bay\u003c/a> in early February, as an overflow crowd squeezed into the main auditorium for a panel discussion on \"Referendum on The Deli Menu\" (Can the Jewish Deli be sustainable?) sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>. Saul's, for those of you born without cravings for matzoh ball soup, is Berkeley's big, busy, much-loved Jewish deli. But ever since Karen Adelman and her husband Peter Levitt bought the deli in 1995, they've had what they call \"a stealthy, secret mission\" operating alongside their dedication to borscht and blintzes, corned beef and chicken in a pot. Their secret? A desire to pull the deli in line with contemporary attitudes about food and consumption, rather than letting it ossify like gefilte fish left too long in the fridge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/karenadelman-peterlevitt500.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt - owners of Sauls\" title=\"Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt - owners of Sauls\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10721\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, towering sandwiches were slimmed down, no longer stacked with jaw-defying stacks of meat. Meats became sustainably ranched, grass-fed when possible. Vegetables started to come from local farms. Corn-syruped drinks were out; housemade sodas were in. Most recently, salami was dropped from the menu; Hebrew National, the only widely available brand of all-beef salami, is now owned by giant Con Agra. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matzoball-soup500.jpg\" alt=\"matzo ball soup made from pastured chicken\" title=\"matzo ball soup made from pastured chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10722\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This being Berkeley, you'd think pasture-raised chicken soup would earn nothing but mazel tovs. But not everyone, it seemed, wanted consciousness-raising alongside their blintzes and brisket. There was pushback from some customers, and an overall question: How much could a deli change and still be a deli? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/grassfed-brisket500.jpg\" alt=\"grassfed brisket butterball potatoes and Riverdog chard\" title=\"grassfed brisket butterball potatoes and Riverdog chard\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10720\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the referendum, featuring Karen and Paul in conversation with Saul's regular and local superstar \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelpollan.com/\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>; green-business maven \u003ca href=\"http://www.natlogic.com/resources/publications/the-truth-about-green-business/\">Gil Friend\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityslickerfarms.org\">City Slickers Farms\u003c/a> founder (and self-described \"pastrami addict\" Willow Rosenthal, the whole moderated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kcrw.com/people/kleiman_evan?role=host\">Evan Kleinman\u003c/a>, host of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kcrw.com/etc/programs/gf\">KRCW's Good Food\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having heard the phrase \"2 Jews, 3 opinions\" tossed around by my opinionated, argue-for-the-sake-of-it relatives all my life, I was ready for some Talmudic-level conflict, some heated words exchanged in the interest of radical change vs. How Bubbe Did It. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, though, everyone on the panel agreed on nearly everything. Nostalgia is no excuse for a lack of conscience; if you care about eating locally, organically, sustainably and/or humanely at home, why should a Jewish deli give you a free pass to wallow in feedlot beef or syrupy soda? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Said Peter, \"We started with not wanting to sell meat we wouldn't eat. We want to drag the deli out of the museum, let it breathe with the seasons for a change.\" Right now, his challenge is corned beef: the grass-fed beef from local Marin Sun Farms, delicious as it is, isn't holding up to the 2- to 3-week brining process. It's been coming out dry and crumbly, probably due to being more muscled and less fatty that typical feedlot beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's the menu problem: Saul's, like most delis, has a huge menu. There's the everyday menu, an equally long, but more international, seasonally-inspired specials menu, and then the \"secret\" menu of the more hard-core, Old World items--flanken, kishkes, things made with schmaltz and braised in gravy. Peter would like to see the menu shortened and made more manageable (and cost-effective); if that means no cold beet borscht in winter, so be it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Karen, \"I think we should be leading, not just reacting. We're hungry for meaning and community, along with comfort food. We need to connect with our future as well as our past. I promise, no one will leave hungry!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, even in Berkeley, there's room to toe more than one party line. If this were New York City, or Los Angeles, where deli culture, while battered, is still alive, one deli's decision to nix the salami would hardly generate SRO crowds at the 92nd St Y. But delis are few in the Bay Area, and so Saul's clientele takes any changes personally . But if there are Hebrew National fans and lox diehards out there, they're keeping quiet; the crowd claps and nods along with just about everything Pollan, Rosenthal, and Friend present, even recoiling a little in genteel horror at brightly colored slides of jaw-defying pastrami sandwiches teetering higher than Lady Gaga's heels. Those massive sandwiches, long the symbol of post-war abundance, a meaty slap in the face to immigrant privation, are no longer sustainable; as Peter points out, there's no way to provide that much meat, particularly if it's good, humanely raised meat, at a price regular customers can bear. \"Those huge sandwiches are killing the deli. You can't make money selling 12 oz of meat for $10 or $15. At a steakhouse, you'd pay $30 or $40 for that much meat, and you'd buy a bottle of wine.\" Instead, Karen and Peter want to offer their customers alternatives that taste good, with a little patient explanation to help it along. Already, the menu emphasizes smoked trout (farmed) over overfished salmon, and more and more Mediterranean inspired salads and vegetable dishes to go along with the potato pancakes and cheesecake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pollan, for one, sees the democratization of the food movement as a very good thing. \"Getting sustainable food into delis, taquerias, cheaper places, that's great because it makes it more accessible to everyone.\" Agrees Friend, \"We vote with our dollars every day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the deli is our secular synagogue, as Pollan muses, clearly this one is reform, maybe even reconstructionist. So fizz up an egg cream or raise a glass of borscht, and toast the new deli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VIDEO CLIP OF EVENT:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,0,0\" width=\"400\" height=\"264\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"webhost=fora.tv&clipid=11451&cliptype=clip\">\u003cparam name=\"allowScriptAccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://fora.tv/embedded_player\">\u003cembed flashvars=\"webhost=fora.tv&clipid=11451&cliptype=clip\" src=\"http://fora.tv/embedded_player\" width=\"400\" height=\"264\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" pluginspage=\"http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos provided by \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Posts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ethicurean.com/2010/02/15/jewish-deli/\">Saul's got SOLE: The Jewish deli in Berkeley evolves\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nby \u003cem>Marc R. aka Mental Masala\u003c/em> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ethicurean.com/\">The Ethicurean\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/02/18/referendum-on-the-deli-menu-at-saul%E2%80%99s-restaurant-and-delicatessen-what-is-tradition/\">Referendum on the Deli Menu at Saul's Restaurant and Delicatessen: What is Tradition?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nby Vanessa Barrington at \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/10677/who-owns-the-deli","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_2876","bayareabites_3504","bayareabites_3507","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_97","bayareabites_2880"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_7576":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_7576","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"7576","score":null,"sort":[1256393841000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","title":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli","publishDate":1256393841,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-seltzer300.jpg\" alt=\"sauls seltzer\" title=\"sauls seltzer\" width=\"300\" height=\"452\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7600\">If you're reading David Sax's recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com/catalog/titledetail.cfm?titleNumber=1101285\">Save the Deli\u003c/a>, or follow \u003ca href=\"http://www.savethedeli.com\">his blog\u003c/a> or moan, as many do, about the general state of the Jewish delicatessen, then you know that it's a pivotal time in this most hallowed bastion of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, locavores and vegetarians, calorie-counting suburbanites and couscous-loving Sephardim and even \u003ca href=\"http://www.myspace.com/facocktarocks\">heeb-hopping hipsters\u003c/a> have been bringing their own favorite dishes to the Jewish table. You might not know this upon stepping into a deli, where piles of salty, fatty meat and schmaltz in the chopped liver and never-ending free pickles every day of the year define good eating. It's supposed to be a carefree zone where all the generations and sects can enjoy some chicken soup in relative peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking up this world a bit. As the owners and hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant, relevant and delicious far into the 21st century. From adding Mediterranean mezzes to offering locally grown, locally made pickles, they're crafting a new sensibility for an old institution. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A multicultural, sustainable deli might seem like a quixotic pursuit, as many would argue that we should leave well enough alone. Any real and authentic Jewish deli doesn't need to concern itself with all this modern fancifying. But if you're a deli owner and you see your customers coming into your dining room less and less often -– how many pastrami sandwiches does one person eat these days? -- you realize that things need to change to keep going.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-pickles500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls pickles\" title=\"sauls pickles\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7601\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, ideals do have a way of bumping up against reality. Let's take the last thing on the menu, that list of drinks at the end of the page. Such a minor thing, no? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, as it turns out, simple it most definitely is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For diners, drinks are usually just an afterthought. For green-minded business owners, though, the environmental costs of transporting flavored water, the impact of corn syrup and artificial sweeteners in our communities, and the waste of thousands upon thousands of empty cans and glass cannot be ignored. If you're somewhat concerned, you might just put out a recycling bin and offer a few cents off on coffee poured into insulated mugs. If you're a little more committed, you might try sourcing local sodas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're Karen and Peter, you have a much, much longer road to travel. You begin by studying the history of sodas and the science of bubbles. Along the way, you learn about the monopolistic technologies of multinational food corporations. You connect the dots between individual soda jerks, creative spirit and community values. You daydream down a short detour, one that takes you past designs for a working seltzer tap at each and every booth. You decide to compromise, backtracking to install a central seltzer dispenser. You call up a beer tap specialist to design a brand-new beverage system for you. You track down stronger fittings that can hold up to the pressure of C02. You convince colleagues that going back in time 60 years to revive obsolete tastes and technology will be a good thing for the business. You train special \"seltzer baristas\" to use the finicky machine with its nonstandard formulations. You develop recipe after recipe from scratch. (Cream Soda #8, you think, seems especially promising.) Then, years later, you launch your own house-made seltzers and, in a moment of unrestrained ambition, you decide to stop selling bottled, commercial sodas entirely. Even Dr. Brown's. Yes, even the Black Cherry and Cel-Ray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's still not done. Now, you smile politely at your customers' dismay when they can no longer grab a can of soda with their take-out lunch and nod synpathetically at those most earnest of drinkers, the Diet Coke loyalists. You accept losing thousands of dollars in beverage sales. At the same time, you account for higher food costs because your drink bases, made from real fruit, are good for only four hours. You create and hope that your customers will enjoy the special syrups that taste slightly different day to day in flavors that come and go with the seasons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You stand back and imagine a dining room full of people sipping sodas made by friends and neighbors from fresh fruit and whole spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You win some -- these sodas are phenomenal and you're proud and ecstatic, if a bit exhausted. They more than make up for past battles lost. There's still that ongoing campaign to source enough briskets from grass-fed cattle to feed your hungry customers. And let's not forget the recent Pickle Squirmish, when you tried charging for kosher dills -- in a deli! -- and took a fatal stab at explaining the seasonality of cucumbers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, one step at a time, one step at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, you're happy to offer a taste of history: the sweet satisfaction and elusive effervescence of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/housemade-soda-syrups/\">\u003cstrong>real seltzer flavored with homemade syrups\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-rugelah500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls rugelah\" title=\"sauls rugelah\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7602\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye and the Heart of the Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy David Sax (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)\u003cbr>\nSax's campaign to save the deli, as one mom-and-pop sandwich shop after another closes, brings him to the Bay Area this week. Stop by and meet him at Saul's this Saturday afternoon or at Book Passage on Monday at the Ferry Building. Listen to him read from his new book and then ask him for yourself: which city makes the best pastrami and why do we have to drink egg creams so fast and, yes, that most important question, what is the future of the Jewish delicatessen? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saturday, October 24, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Restaurant and Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1475 Shattuck Ave Berkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\n(510) 848-3354\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&q=map+saul's+Berkeley,+CA+94709&ie=UTF8&hq=saul's&hnear=Berkeley,+CA+94709&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Monday, October 26, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/content.php?id=17\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ferry Building, #42\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94111\u003cbr>\n(415) 835-1020\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=ferry+building+san+francisco&sll=37.880719,-122.26893&sspn=0.014955,0.013797&ie=UTF8&hq=ferry+building&hnear=San+Francisco,+CA&ll=37.771529,-122.400055&spn=0.232846,0.220757&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Leave it to Karen Peterman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking things up. As the owners and very hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant and relevant and delicious in the 21st century. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1256745423,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1021},"headData":{"title":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli | KQED","description":"Leave it to Karen Peterman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking things up. As the owners and very hands-on managers of Saul's, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant and relevant and delicious in the 21st century. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli","datePublished":"2009-10-24T14:17:21.000Z","dateModified":"2009-10-28T15:57:03.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"7576 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=7576","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/24/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future/","disqusTitle":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli","path":"/bayareabites/7576/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-seltzer300.jpg\" alt=\"sauls seltzer\" title=\"sauls seltzer\" width=\"300\" height=\"452\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7600\">If you're reading David Sax's recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com/catalog/titledetail.cfm?titleNumber=1101285\">Save the Deli\u003c/a>, or follow \u003ca href=\"http://www.savethedeli.com\">his blog\u003c/a> or moan, as many do, about the general state of the Jewish delicatessen, then you know that it's a pivotal time in this most hallowed bastion of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, locavores and vegetarians, calorie-counting suburbanites and couscous-loving Sephardim and even \u003ca href=\"http://www.myspace.com/facocktarocks\">heeb-hopping hipsters\u003c/a> have been bringing their own favorite dishes to the Jewish table. You might not know this upon stepping into a deli, where piles of salty, fatty meat and schmaltz in the chopped liver and never-ending free pickles every day of the year define good eating. It's supposed to be a carefree zone where all the generations and sects can enjoy some chicken soup in relative peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking up this world a bit. As the owners and hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant, relevant and delicious far into the 21st century. From adding Mediterranean mezzes to offering locally grown, locally made pickles, they're crafting a new sensibility for an old institution. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A multicultural, sustainable deli might seem like a quixotic pursuit, as many would argue that we should leave well enough alone. Any real and authentic Jewish deli doesn't need to concern itself with all this modern fancifying. But if you're a deli owner and you see your customers coming into your dining room less and less often -– how many pastrami sandwiches does one person eat these days? -- you realize that things need to change to keep going.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-pickles500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls pickles\" title=\"sauls pickles\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7601\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, ideals do have a way of bumping up against reality. Let's take the last thing on the menu, that list of drinks at the end of the page. Such a minor thing, no? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, as it turns out, simple it most definitely is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For diners, drinks are usually just an afterthought. For green-minded business owners, though, the environmental costs of transporting flavored water, the impact of corn syrup and artificial sweeteners in our communities, and the waste of thousands upon thousands of empty cans and glass cannot be ignored. If you're somewhat concerned, you might just put out a recycling bin and offer a few cents off on coffee poured into insulated mugs. If you're a little more committed, you might try sourcing local sodas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're Karen and Peter, you have a much, much longer road to travel. You begin by studying the history of sodas and the science of bubbles. Along the way, you learn about the monopolistic technologies of multinational food corporations. You connect the dots between individual soda jerks, creative spirit and community values. You daydream down a short detour, one that takes you past designs for a working seltzer tap at each and every booth. You decide to compromise, backtracking to install a central seltzer dispenser. You call up a beer tap specialist to design a brand-new beverage system for you. You track down stronger fittings that can hold up to the pressure of C02. You convince colleagues that going back in time 60 years to revive obsolete tastes and technology will be a good thing for the business. You train special \"seltzer baristas\" to use the finicky machine with its nonstandard formulations. You develop recipe after recipe from scratch. (Cream Soda #8, you think, seems especially promising.) Then, years later, you launch your own house-made seltzers and, in a moment of unrestrained ambition, you decide to stop selling bottled, commercial sodas entirely. Even Dr. Brown's. Yes, even the Black Cherry and Cel-Ray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's still not done. Now, you smile politely at your customers' dismay when they can no longer grab a can of soda with their take-out lunch and nod synpathetically at those most earnest of drinkers, the Diet Coke loyalists. You accept losing thousands of dollars in beverage sales. At the same time, you account for higher food costs because your drink bases, made from real fruit, are good for only four hours. You create and hope that your customers will enjoy the special syrups that taste slightly different day to day in flavors that come and go with the seasons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You stand back and imagine a dining room full of people sipping sodas made by friends and neighbors from fresh fruit and whole spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You win some -- these sodas are phenomenal and you're proud and ecstatic, if a bit exhausted. They more than make up for past battles lost. There's still that ongoing campaign to source enough briskets from grass-fed cattle to feed your hungry customers. And let's not forget the recent Pickle Squirmish, when you tried charging for kosher dills -- in a deli! -- and took a fatal stab at explaining the seasonality of cucumbers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, one step at a time, one step at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, you're happy to offer a taste of history: the sweet satisfaction and elusive effervescence of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/housemade-soda-syrups/\">\u003cstrong>real seltzer flavored with homemade syrups\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-rugelah500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls rugelah\" title=\"sauls rugelah\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7602\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye and the Heart of the Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy David Sax (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)\u003cbr>\nSax's campaign to save the deli, as one mom-and-pop sandwich shop after another closes, brings him to the Bay Area this week. Stop by and meet him at Saul's this Saturday afternoon or at Book Passage on Monday at the Ferry Building. Listen to him read from his new book and then ask him for yourself: which city makes the best pastrami and why do we have to drink egg creams so fast and, yes, that most important question, what is the future of the Jewish delicatessen? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saturday, October 24, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Restaurant and Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1475 Shattuck Ave Berkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\n(510) 848-3354\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&q=map+saul's+Berkeley,+CA+94709&ie=UTF8&hq=saul's&hnear=Berkeley,+CA+94709&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Monday, October 26, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/content.php?id=17\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ferry Building, #42\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94111\u003cbr>\n(415) 835-1020\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=ferry+building+san+francisco&sll=37.880719,-122.26893&sspn=0.014955,0.013797&ie=UTF8&hq=ferry+building&hnear=San+Francisco,+CA&ll=37.771529,-122.400055&spn=0.232846,0.220757&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/7576/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2881","bayareabites_48","bayareabites_2879","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_2876","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_2880","bayareabites_2882"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. 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Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Here-And-Now-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. 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