Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips
Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book "Cowgirl Creamery Cooks"
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Learn more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">cuesa.org\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"cuesa","facebook":"CUESA","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"CUESA | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/cuesa"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_82616":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82616","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82616","score":null,"sort":[1401307418000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","title":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips","publishDate":1401307418,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery were among the first American cheesemakers to be recognized by the prestigious French cheese guild. So they know a thing or two about storing and using old cheese.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1401307418,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":71,"wordCount":2081},"headData":{"title":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips | KQED","description":"The co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery were among the first American cheesemakers to be recognized by the prestigious French cheese guild. So they know a thing or two about storing and using old cheese.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"82616 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82616","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/28/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips/","disqusTitle":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips","nprByline":"NPR Staff","nprStoryId":"313146276","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=313146276&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips?ft=3&f=313146276","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 10:55:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 03:29:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 10:55:12 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313146276","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1316552701-455e06.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313146276","path":"/bayareabites/82616/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82616/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82616"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_404","bayareabites_12650"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82617","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73233":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73233","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73233","score":null,"sort":[1383479297000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","title":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\"","publishDate":1383479297,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/cheese-pioneers-interview-cowgirl-creamery\">\u003cstrong>Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (10/31/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> have been blazing trails for more than 30 years. After moving West in the seventies, they immersed themselves in the Bay Area food revolution, Peggy in the kitchen at Chez Panisse and Sue at Fourth Street Grill and Bette’s Oceanview Diner. In the late 1980s, they decided to explore new frontiers in Marin, supporting farmers and producers directly and becoming pioneering cheese makers in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books), the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. We talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73262\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"186\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73262\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us about your journey into the cheese business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sue Conley:\u003c/strong> I moved to Point Reyes in 1989, and almost the first day I was there I met Ellen Straus of \u003ca href=\"http://strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a>. Dairies were in danger at the time because we were so close to the city. Property values were really exploding, and developers had purchased much of the land. Ellen had helped start the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/home\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a> to enable farmers to sell their development rights and get cash to put back into their operation [by placing an agricultural easement on their property, preserving it in perpetuity]. It was a new idea, the first of its kind in the US.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellen had said that unless farmers do something that’s profitable and a little more fun than selling milk into the commodity market, they won’t want to farm, even if their land is set aside. They would need to do things like transition to organic or make value-added products. I said, “I’d love to help with that idea.” Her son, Albert, was just starting to transition his dairy to organic, and it became the first organic dairy in the West.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bought a barn in Point Reyes, an old broken-down place. We were going to have art studios upstairs and a food business downstairs, a showcase for agricultural goods in our county. Peggy and I started working on a business plan to provide a direct market for the producers. Our first producer was Albert, and we knew a couple cheese makers in Sonoma who were just getting going at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How did you start making cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We thought that we should make our own fresh cheese, so that people could see the cheese being made when they walk in, and on the other end of the barn, they could have a cheese sandwich at a little deli. I made the cheese and Peggy did the cooking. We made cottage cheese, fromage blanc, and crème fraîche, and as we matured in our business and confidence, we made aged cheese. It takes a long time to develop a system, skills, and the staff to make great cheese, but we had the one important thing, and that was good milk. Even today, 90% of the milk in our cheese comes from Albert Straus’s farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we started our company in 1997, no one would distribute our handmade cheese because it was fresh and fragile and expensive, so we had to buy a truck and deliver it ourselves. And since we were already going to restaurants and retailers in the city, we decided we should also bring the other cheeses we sold, so we became a distributor for these newly developing cheese businesses. Distribution became key to these dairy families feeling confident embarking on something new. That’s something we’re very proud of, and it’s as important to us as making great cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73261\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: When you started making cheese, how did you find your niche?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We tried to highlight the beautiful flavors in the milk we were using. That was something we learned from traveling to England, France, and Italy. The cheese makers there think about what the animals are eating, what breed the animal is, how the animal is cared for, what’s growing in the pasture, and how the pasture is cared for. Until you have all of that in line, you shouldn’t start to make cheese. That really stuck with us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our experiences traveling to France, England, and Italy, we saw that people can make very good livings on small production, specialty cheese. We drew inspiration from Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and Jean d’Alos in Bordeaux, France, and modeled our business after them. They sold cheese from other producers on the counter, but they made their own fresh cheese and yogurt. They really wanted to highlight the taste of the milk that was local to their place. That continues to be the niche that we fill at Cowgirl Creamery. We’re also certified organic, and there are very few certified organic cheese producers in the artisanal world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you say more about how sustainability fits into your business model?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We buy milk that is from a sustainable farm with humane treatment of animals. We also believe in paying the people who work with us a fair wage, whether it’s a cheese monger, cheese maker, or a driver. Everybody in the company is committed to preserving sustainable agriculture in our region. It’s at the core of our mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"250\" height=\"336\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-73260\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Why did you decide to write a book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books (which is owned by the family that also owns McEvoy Ranch, our neighbors and farmers in our county) had been after us for a while to do a book, but we didn’t feel that we were ready. Farming and cheese making are fragile economies, and we were encouraging farmers to do something that we weren’t yet sure would really work. We had seen it work in Europe, but we didn’t know if farmers here would be able to sustain themselves. We didn’t know if Albert would be successful in his organic venture, or if we would be able to pay our bills. Coming to the Ferry Building 10 years ago was a huge boost for us because it gave international exposure to our company and the other cheese makers. In the last five years, we’ve really been able to get ahead of our debt and investment from building the company from nothing. We didn’t want to write about that until we were sure that it would work, but now we think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What are you hoping readers will take away from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Hopefully, it’ll give you a general understanding of how cheese is made. The book is basically a narrative with recipes. We discuss the styles of cheeses in the order that we learned to make them, starting with the simplest fresh cheeses, then soft-ripened and mold-ripened cheeses, aged cheeses, grating cheeses, and blues. Each chapter has a description of how the cheese is made and how to cook with it. We also have a chapter on how to taste cheese and planning a cheese course. We talk a lot about milk, the different qualities of milk, and the milksheds that have been cheese-making clusters in the US. And we talk about why small cheese makers working together can make something that’s more interesting and successful than one big cheese company or lots of them scattered about. As it works in Europe, it works here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays and at their retail shop inside the Ferry Building seven days a week.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton, reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/recipe/winter-salad-greens-persimmon-vinaigrette-and-mt-tam\">Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 590px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"590\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Source:\u003c/strong> Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have beautiful lettuce that you’ve grown yourself or found in a farmers market, this might be the recipe to use. When Peggy finds exceptional lettuce, she thinks of Jean-Pierre Moullé, the chef at Chez Panisse, as well as our good friend Todd Koons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A classically trained French chef, Jean-Pierre Moullé is a thoughtful, caring cook who shares his knowledge generously. His influence on a generation of cooks is far-reaching; many people who cook today have adopted his cooking style. The cooks who worked with Jean-Pierre perhaps loved best that Jean-Pierre always gave you (or his cooking) his entire attention and welcomed questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre is an accomplished hunter and fisherman, but Peggy associates him with lettuce because of the delicate lettuces he harvested from his tiny garden in Berkeley. Peggy viewed it as an honor and a privilege when Jean-Pierre asked her to care for his garden while he went on vacation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre brought all of his lettuces to Chez Panisse; Todd Koons, at the age of nineteen, realized that California restaurants would buy many of the specialty lettuces that weren’t available in the United States at that time (unless you knew Jean-Pierre). Todd helped bring organic, field-grown heirloom lettuces to a wider market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre has changed much more than the type of lettuce we find in restaurants today. Peggy speaks for many cooks when she expresses gratitude for the many lessons Jean-Pierre taught—most important, always spend the time needed to do a task well and always appreciate the food on the plate, the wine in the glass, and the people around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Persimmon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 small shallot, minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, juices reserved\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups fresh, beautiful greens (any combination of radicchio, speckled lettuce, Belgian endive, or escarole), washed and torn into pieces\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n4 slices Levain bread, cut slightly on the diagonal\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons Mt Tam cheese (paste only, not the rind)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, pour the vinegar over the shallot. Let it sit for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk together the finely chopped persimmon and any juice with the shallot and Champagne vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil slowly, and continue whisking until it emulsifies. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, taste the vinaigrette, and decide if you’d like more salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When you’re just about ready to serve, dress the salad greens with the vinaigrette. Divide the dressed greens onto four salad plates and top with the persimmon chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very lightly toast the bread slices. You want them to be warm but still tender and not overly crisp. Spread 1 tablespoon of Mt Tam on each warm bread slice, set it on the plate beside the salad, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted with permission of Chronicle Books. Photo from Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In their new book, Cowgirl Creamery Cooks, the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. CUESA talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement. Get the recipe for \u003cem>Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/em>.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1383479934,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":1919},"headData":{"title":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\" | KQED","description":"In their new book, Cowgirl Creamery Cooks, the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. CUESA talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement. Get the recipe for Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"73233 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73233","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/","disqusTitle":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\"","path":"/bayareabites/73233/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/cheese-pioneers-interview-cowgirl-creamery\">\u003cstrong>Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (10/31/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> have been blazing trails for more than 30 years. After moving West in the seventies, they immersed themselves in the Bay Area food revolution, Peggy in the kitchen at Chez Panisse and Sue at Fourth Street Grill and Bette’s Oceanview Diner. In the late 1980s, they decided to explore new frontiers in Marin, supporting farmers and producers directly and becoming pioneering cheese makers in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books), the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. We talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73262\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"186\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73262\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us about your journey into the cheese business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sue Conley:\u003c/strong> I moved to Point Reyes in 1989, and almost the first day I was there I met Ellen Straus of \u003ca href=\"http://strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a>. Dairies were in danger at the time because we were so close to the city. Property values were really exploding, and developers had purchased much of the land. Ellen had helped start the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/home\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a> to enable farmers to sell their development rights and get cash to put back into their operation [by placing an agricultural easement on their property, preserving it in perpetuity]. It was a new idea, the first of its kind in the US.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellen had said that unless farmers do something that’s profitable and a little more fun than selling milk into the commodity market, they won’t want to farm, even if their land is set aside. They would need to do things like transition to organic or make value-added products. I said, “I’d love to help with that idea.” Her son, Albert, was just starting to transition his dairy to organic, and it became the first organic dairy in the West.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bought a barn in Point Reyes, an old broken-down place. We were going to have art studios upstairs and a food business downstairs, a showcase for agricultural goods in our county. Peggy and I started working on a business plan to provide a direct market for the producers. Our first producer was Albert, and we knew a couple cheese makers in Sonoma who were just getting going at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How did you start making cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We thought that we should make our own fresh cheese, so that people could see the cheese being made when they walk in, and on the other end of the barn, they could have a cheese sandwich at a little deli. I made the cheese and Peggy did the cooking. We made cottage cheese, fromage blanc, and crème fraîche, and as we matured in our business and confidence, we made aged cheese. It takes a long time to develop a system, skills, and the staff to make great cheese, but we had the one important thing, and that was good milk. Even today, 90% of the milk in our cheese comes from Albert Straus’s farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we started our company in 1997, no one would distribute our handmade cheese because it was fresh and fragile and expensive, so we had to buy a truck and deliver it ourselves. And since we were already going to restaurants and retailers in the city, we decided we should also bring the other cheeses we sold, so we became a distributor for these newly developing cheese businesses. Distribution became key to these dairy families feeling confident embarking on something new. That’s something we’re very proud of, and it’s as important to us as making great cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73261\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: When you started making cheese, how did you find your niche?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We tried to highlight the beautiful flavors in the milk we were using. That was something we learned from traveling to England, France, and Italy. The cheese makers there think about what the animals are eating, what breed the animal is, how the animal is cared for, what’s growing in the pasture, and how the pasture is cared for. Until you have all of that in line, you shouldn’t start to make cheese. That really stuck with us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our experiences traveling to France, England, and Italy, we saw that people can make very good livings on small production, specialty cheese. We drew inspiration from Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and Jean d’Alos in Bordeaux, France, and modeled our business after them. They sold cheese from other producers on the counter, but they made their own fresh cheese and yogurt. They really wanted to highlight the taste of the milk that was local to their place. That continues to be the niche that we fill at Cowgirl Creamery. We’re also certified organic, and there are very few certified organic cheese producers in the artisanal world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you say more about how sustainability fits into your business model?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We buy milk that is from a sustainable farm with humane treatment of animals. We also believe in paying the people who work with us a fair wage, whether it’s a cheese monger, cheese maker, or a driver. Everybody in the company is committed to preserving sustainable agriculture in our region. It’s at the core of our mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"250\" height=\"336\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-73260\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Why did you decide to write a book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books (which is owned by the family that also owns McEvoy Ranch, our neighbors and farmers in our county) had been after us for a while to do a book, but we didn’t feel that we were ready. Farming and cheese making are fragile economies, and we were encouraging farmers to do something that we weren’t yet sure would really work. We had seen it work in Europe, but we didn’t know if farmers here would be able to sustain themselves. We didn’t know if Albert would be successful in his organic venture, or if we would be able to pay our bills. Coming to the Ferry Building 10 years ago was a huge boost for us because it gave international exposure to our company and the other cheese makers. In the last five years, we’ve really been able to get ahead of our debt and investment from building the company from nothing. We didn’t want to write about that until we were sure that it would work, but now we think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What are you hoping readers will take away from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Hopefully, it’ll give you a general understanding of how cheese is made. The book is basically a narrative with recipes. We discuss the styles of cheeses in the order that we learned to make them, starting with the simplest fresh cheeses, then soft-ripened and mold-ripened cheeses, aged cheeses, grating cheeses, and blues. Each chapter has a description of how the cheese is made and how to cook with it. We also have a chapter on how to taste cheese and planning a cheese course. We talk a lot about milk, the different qualities of milk, and the milksheds that have been cheese-making clusters in the US. And we talk about why small cheese makers working together can make something that’s more interesting and successful than one big cheese company or lots of them scattered about. As it works in Europe, it works here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays and at their retail shop inside the Ferry Building seven days a week.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton, reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/recipe/winter-salad-greens-persimmon-vinaigrette-and-mt-tam\">Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 590px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"590\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Source:\u003c/strong> Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have beautiful lettuce that you’ve grown yourself or found in a farmers market, this might be the recipe to use. When Peggy finds exceptional lettuce, she thinks of Jean-Pierre Moullé, the chef at Chez Panisse, as well as our good friend Todd Koons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A classically trained French chef, Jean-Pierre Moullé is a thoughtful, caring cook who shares his knowledge generously. His influence on a generation of cooks is far-reaching; many people who cook today have adopted his cooking style. The cooks who worked with Jean-Pierre perhaps loved best that Jean-Pierre always gave you (or his cooking) his entire attention and welcomed questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre is an accomplished hunter and fisherman, but Peggy associates him with lettuce because of the delicate lettuces he harvested from his tiny garden in Berkeley. Peggy viewed it as an honor and a privilege when Jean-Pierre asked her to care for his garden while he went on vacation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre brought all of his lettuces to Chez Panisse; Todd Koons, at the age of nineteen, realized that California restaurants would buy many of the specialty lettuces that weren’t available in the United States at that time (unless you knew Jean-Pierre). Todd helped bring organic, field-grown heirloom lettuces to a wider market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre has changed much more than the type of lettuce we find in restaurants today. Peggy speaks for many cooks when she expresses gratitude for the many lessons Jean-Pierre taught—most important, always spend the time needed to do a task well and always appreciate the food on the plate, the wine in the glass, and the people around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Persimmon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 small shallot, minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, juices reserved\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups fresh, beautiful greens (any combination of radicchio, speckled lettuce, Belgian endive, or escarole), washed and torn into pieces\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n4 slices Levain bread, cut slightly on the diagonal\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons Mt Tam cheese (paste only, not the rind)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, pour the vinegar over the shallot. Let it sit for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk together the finely chopped persimmon and any juice with the shallot and Champagne vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil slowly, and continue whisking until it emulsifies. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, taste the vinaigrette, and decide if you’d like more salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When you’re just about ready to serve, dress the salad greens with the vinaigrette. Divide the dressed greens onto four salad plates and top with the persimmon chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very lightly toast the bread slices. You want them to be warm but still tender and not overly crisp. Spread 1 tablespoon of Mt Tam on each warm bread slice, set it on the plate beside the salad, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted with permission of Chronicle Books. Photo from Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73233/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_12650","bayareabites_2339","bayareabites_9368","bayareabites_10172"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73259","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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