Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years
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The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean
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After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"mariafinn":{"type":"authors","id":"5371","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5371","found":true},"name":"Maria Finn","firstName":"Maria","lastName":"Finn","slug":"mariafinn","email":"mariafinn@mac.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Maria Finn lives on a floating houseboat in Sausalito, where she grows a rooftop container garden, despite the salty winds. She’s the author of the book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780789320278\">“A Little Piece of Earth, How to Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces\u003c/a>” (Rizzoli, 2010), and the memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9781565125179\">“Hold Me Tight and Tango Me Home”\u003c/a> (Algonquin Books, 2010) , which is in development for a television series with Fox Studios. Her novel-in-progress, “Sea Legs and Fish Nets,” loosely based on her experiences working on an all female fishing boat in Alaska, is a finalist for the Pen/Bellwether Prize, founded by Barbara Kingsolver for novels that address issues of social justice. She writes for Sunset Magazine, Afar Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, and many other publications. Visit her website at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariafinn.com/\">mariafinn.com\u003c/a> and follow her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/mariafinn\">@mariafinn\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Maria Finn | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/mariafinn"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_134492":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134492","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134492","score":null,"sort":[1566495270000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","title":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years","publishDate":1566495270,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside tag='salmon' num='2' label='More on Salmon']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trolling off the California coast, Sarah Bates leans over the side of her boat and pulls out a long, silvery fish prized by anglers and seafood lovers: wild king salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reeling in a fish “feels good every time,” but this year has been surprisingly good, said Bates, a commercial troller based in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and other California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sharp reversal for chinook salmon, also known as king salmon, an iconic species that helps sustain many Pacific Coast fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial salmon catches have surpassed official preseason forecasts by about 50%, said Kandice Morgenstern, a marine scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. Harvests have been particularly strong in Morro Bay, Monterey and San Francisco, but weaker along California’s northern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re really surprised to be seeing this many fish being landed so far this season,” Morgenstern said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon rebound comes after three years of extremely low catches that resulted from poor ocean conditions and California’s five-year drought, which drained the state’s rivers and reservoirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past several years, regulators imposed severe fishing restrictions to protect chinook salmon, and officials declared \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/62f6559d8010428699d63e7dcd12ffbe\">federal fishery disasters\u003c/a> in 2018 to assist fishing communities in California, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_oZTViacZE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacific Coast fishermen are reeling in big hauls of wild king salmon after years of weak harvests due to severe drought and poor ocean conditions. The chinook salmon boom is good news for anglers, seafood lovers and coastal fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s adult salmon are the first class to benefit from record rainfall that filled California rivers and streams in early 2017, making it easier for juvenile chinook to migrate to the Pacific Ocean, where they grow into full-size fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are also being helped by improved ocean conditions that have produced an abundance of anchovies, krill and other feed. Several years ago, an El Nino event brought unusually warm water to the Pacific Coast and disrupted the marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For the salmon fishermen who’ve been dealing with disaster for so long, this is an incredible boon to their livelihoods,” said Noah Oppenheim, who heads the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strong salmon season, which typically runs from May to October, is positive environmental news at a time of growing anxiety about climate change. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/afb6990efd7c437da19c6d4d9976899c\">United Nations report\u003c/a> released this month warns that global warming threatens food supplies worldwide.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_81655' align='left' label='How to Cook Your Salmon']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgenstern says climate change is creating greater fluctuations in ocean and river conditions, making chinook fisheries “less stable, less predictable and more challenging for fishery managers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the chinook salmon now being caught come from the Sacramento River and its tributaries, where they spawn. Many were raised in state-run hatcheries then released into rivers to swim to the ocean. Harvests of chinook from rivers farther north have not been strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For consumers, the bountiful harvest has driven down wild salmon prices to $15 to $20 per pound, compared with $30 to $35 per pound in recent years. Fishermen are making up for the difference by catching more fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The market is dictating right now that there’s a lot of salmon, so the customers don’t have to pay as much,” said Gordon Drysdale, culinary director at Scoma’s, a seafood restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The wharf is one of many California fishing communities now benefiting from the salmon boom. Pier 45, where boats unload their fish, hasn’t been this busy in many years, said Larry Collins, who runs the San Francisco Community Fishing Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year started out with a bang, and it’s just kept banging the whole time,” Collins said. “We’re all really excited and happy the fish showed up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent morning, commercial fisherman Brand Little, who sells to customers in the Lake Tahoe area, returned from four days of fishing with nearly 200 salmon weighing more than 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Best trip of the season,” Little said. “It’s been a long time coming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon boom is also welcomed by sport fishermen and the boat operators who take them out to the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the fish are biting, it’s always good for business for us,” said Mike Rescino, who runs a charter boat. “When the people see the big reports, they’re going to come out and go fishing with us.”\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1566505116,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":826},"headData":{"title":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years | KQED","description":"California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"134492 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134492","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/22/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years/","disqusTitle":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years","nprByline":"Terrence Chea, Associated Press","path":"/bayareabites/134492/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"salmon","num":"2","label":"More on Salmon "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trolling off the California coast, Sarah Bates leans over the side of her boat and pulls out a long, silvery fish prized by anglers and seafood lovers: wild king salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reeling in a fish “feels good every time,” but this year has been surprisingly good, said Bates, a commercial troller based in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and other California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sharp reversal for chinook salmon, also known as king salmon, an iconic species that helps sustain many Pacific Coast fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial salmon catches have surpassed official preseason forecasts by about 50%, said Kandice Morgenstern, a marine scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. Harvests have been particularly strong in Morro Bay, Monterey and San Francisco, but weaker along California’s northern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re really surprised to be seeing this many fish being landed so far this season,” Morgenstern said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon rebound comes after three years of extremely low catches that resulted from poor ocean conditions and California’s five-year drought, which drained the state’s rivers and reservoirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past several years, regulators imposed severe fishing restrictions to protect chinook salmon, and officials declared \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/62f6559d8010428699d63e7dcd12ffbe\">federal fishery disasters\u003c/a> in 2018 to assist fishing communities in California, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/s_oZTViacZE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/s_oZTViacZE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Pacific Coast fishermen are reeling in big hauls of wild king salmon after years of weak harvests due to severe drought and poor ocean conditions. The chinook salmon boom is good news for anglers, seafood lovers and coastal fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s adult salmon are the first class to benefit from record rainfall that filled California rivers and streams in early 2017, making it easier for juvenile chinook to migrate to the Pacific Ocean, where they grow into full-size fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are also being helped by improved ocean conditions that have produced an abundance of anchovies, krill and other feed. Several years ago, an El Nino event brought unusually warm water to the Pacific Coast and disrupted the marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For the salmon fishermen who’ve been dealing with disaster for so long, this is an incredible boon to their livelihoods,” said Noah Oppenheim, who heads the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strong salmon season, which typically runs from May to October, is positive environmental news at a time of growing anxiety about climate change. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/afb6990efd7c437da19c6d4d9976899c\">United Nations report\u003c/a> released this month warns that global warming threatens food supplies worldwide.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_81655","align":"left","label":"How to Cook Your Salmon "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgenstern says climate change is creating greater fluctuations in ocean and river conditions, making chinook fisheries “less stable, less predictable and more challenging for fishery managers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the chinook salmon now being caught come from the Sacramento River and its tributaries, where they spawn. Many were raised in state-run hatcheries then released into rivers to swim to the ocean. Harvests of chinook from rivers farther north have not been strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For consumers, the bountiful harvest has driven down wild salmon prices to $15 to $20 per pound, compared with $30 to $35 per pound in recent years. Fishermen are making up for the difference by catching more fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The market is dictating right now that there’s a lot of salmon, so the customers don’t have to pay as much,” said Gordon Drysdale, culinary director at Scoma’s, a seafood restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The wharf is one of many California fishing communities now benefiting from the salmon boom. Pier 45, where boats unload their fish, hasn’t been this busy in many years, said Larry Collins, who runs the San Francisco Community Fishing Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year started out with a bang, and it’s just kept banging the whole time,” Collins said. “We’re all really excited and happy the fish showed up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent morning, commercial fisherman Brand Little, who sells to customers in the Lake Tahoe area, returned from four days of fishing with nearly 200 salmon weighing more than 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Best trip of the season,” Little said. “It’s been a long time coming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon boom is also welcomed by sport fishermen and the boat operators who take them out to the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the fish are biting, it’s always good for business for us,” said Mike Rescino, who runs a charter boat. “When the people see the big reports, they’re going to come out and go fishing with us.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134492/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134492"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_836"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134495","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_125460":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_125460","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"125460","score":null,"sort":[1520451648000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-floating-fillet-rice-farmers-grow-bugs-to-replenish-californias-salmon","title":"A 'Floating Fillet': Rice Farmers Grow Bugs To Replenish California's Salmon","publishDate":1520451648,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Jacob Katz is on the hunt — not for geese or ducks. On a farm about 40 minutes north of Sacramento, he wades through a rice paddy with an aquarium net in hand. But he's not fishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're going bug hunting,\" Katz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The senior scientist for California Trout, a conservation group with a focus on protecting wild fish, is at River Garden Farms. Founded in 1913, they typically grow things like corn, wheat and around 5,000 acres of rice — the kind local sushi restaurants use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But today, he's working on a pilot project with UC Davis to create what they call \"floodplain fatties\" — a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat his bugs while swimming through the Sacramento River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dip this net into the water and it just comes out literally full of bugs,\" says Katz, adding that they are mostly cladocerans, but that he calls them \"water fleas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These little bugs are floating fillet for salmon that'll be in the river.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason he's doing this? Young Chinook salmon and other fish need help. Much of the water they require to survive is stored in dams or diverted through thousands of miles of levees. Before this happened, floodplains in the Central Valley supported large populations of fish. The project to grow bugs for the fish is in year two and the end goal is to improve the likelihood that salmon survive the trek to the ocean and back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What farmers are doing is reconnecting that floodplain natural wealth to the river system where it's needed,\" Katz says. \"More fish equals a win-win for everybody. It means we have a system that works for people and for the environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strategy is called the Fish Food on Floodplain Farm Fields Project. It's part of a greater effort to restore threatened fish species — the Sacramento Valley Salmon Recovery Program. The project comes at a key time: A recent UC Davis study suggests that winter-run Chinook salmon could go extinct if no efforts are made to recover the species. The latest population count is less than 2,000. In the 1970s, there were more than 25,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project starts with rice paddies, says River Garden Farms General Manager Roger Cornwell. He's used to flooding fields during the off-season to provide a rest stop for millions of birds along the Pacific Flyway. Now, instead of just letting the water soak into the earth, he's made a change that mimics the natural floodplain of the Sacramento River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125462\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1138px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57.jpg\" alt='\"Floodplain fatties\" is a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat bugs farmed in the rice fields while swimming through the Sacramento River.' width=\"1138\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125462\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57.jpg 1138w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1138px) 100vw, 1138px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Floodplain fatties\" is a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat bugs farmed in the rice fields while swimming through the Sacramento River. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of California Trout)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We're creating fish food,\" Cornwell says. \"It's very simple. We just pump the water in. Let it slow down and it starts to break down the carbon that is there. It creates algae, algae create bugs, and then we pump that right back to the river to feed the fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, 12 farmers are growing bugs on about 50,000 acres in the Sacramento area. That's about 70 pounds of bugs per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The group is figuring out the details about exactly how to get that fish food back into the river on a large scale. They hope to ramp up the project with as many rice farms as possible in the future — there are more than 500,000 acres of managed floodplains in the Sacramento Valley alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Cornwell says kinks still need to be worked out. \"I think for the farmer, it's more of how effectively can we get food to the fish,\" he says. \"We've got to have all the processes figured out to make it easy for everyone to implement,\" such as resolving complications with irrigation pumps and canals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carson Jeffres — an aquatic biologist with UC Davis — and Katz published a study last year that suggests that, when farmers and conservationists work together, there could be more fish in California Rivers. He thinks projects like this could help eliminate the popular farms versus fish argument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As opposed to standing with our heads in the sand, this is getting us to a place where we can have real impact and change over time,\" says Jeffres, who adds that the project could later be implemented in other rivers like the San Joaquin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back on the rice farm, Cornwell prepares to release the bug-rich water back into the Sacramento River through a system of pumps and canals. \"This water's been out here for right at three weeks right now,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Cornwell, who's farmed in the region for more than a decade, this science-farm partnership costs him about $45 per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're stepping out of our comfort zone,\" he says. \"As this grows people will see what we are doing, and we will start developing trust among neighbors — and then this program is just going to take off on its own.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the minimal cost is worth it to save fish and to make sure the acreage is around for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story comes to us from member station \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.capradio.org/\">\u003cem>Capital Public Radio\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> in Sacramento.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.capradio.org\">Capital Public Radio\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Insect-rich floodplain water once supported the threatened fish, but it has been diverted. The project's end goal is to improve the likelihood that Chinook survive the trek to the ocean and back.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1520474592,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":898},"headData":{"title":"A 'Floating Fillet': Rice Farmers Grow Bugs To Replenish California's Salmon | KQED","description":"Insect-rich floodplain water once supported the threatened fish, but it has been diverted. The project's end goal is to improve the likelihood that Chinook survive the trek to the ocean and back.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"125460 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=125460","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/03/07/a-floating-fillet-rice-farmers-grow-bugs-to-replenish-californias-salmon/","disqusTitle":"A 'Floating Fillet': Rice Farmers Grow Bugs To Replenish California's Salmon","nprImageCredit":"Ezra David Romero","nprByline":"Ezra David Romero, Capital Public Radio","nprImageAgency":"Capital Public Radio","nprStoryId":"590329976","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=590329976&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/03/07/590329976/a-floating-fillet-rice-farmers-hunt-bugs-to-replenish-california-s-salmon?ft=nprml&f=590329976","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 07 Mar 2018 08:00:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 07 Mar 2018 08:00:02 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 07 Mar 2018 08:00:02 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/125460/a-floating-fillet-rice-farmers-grow-bugs-to-replenish-californias-salmon","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Jacob Katz is on the hunt — not for geese or ducks. On a farm about 40 minutes north of Sacramento, he wades through a rice paddy with an aquarium net in hand. But he's not fishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're going bug hunting,\" Katz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The senior scientist for California Trout, a conservation group with a focus on protecting wild fish, is at River Garden Farms. Founded in 1913, they typically grow things like corn, wheat and around 5,000 acres of rice — the kind local sushi restaurants use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But today, he's working on a pilot project with UC Davis to create what they call \"floodplain fatties\" — a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat his bugs while swimming through the Sacramento River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dip this net into the water and it just comes out literally full of bugs,\" says Katz, adding that they are mostly cladocerans, but that he calls them \"water fleas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These little bugs are floating fillet for salmon that'll be in the river.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason he's doing this? Young Chinook salmon and other fish need help. Much of the water they require to survive is stored in dams or diverted through thousands of miles of levees. Before this happened, floodplains in the Central Valley supported large populations of fish. The project to grow bugs for the fish is in year two and the end goal is to improve the likelihood that salmon survive the trek to the ocean and back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What farmers are doing is reconnecting that floodplain natural wealth to the river system where it's needed,\" Katz says. \"More fish equals a win-win for everybody. It means we have a system that works for people and for the environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strategy is called the Fish Food on Floodplain Farm Fields Project. It's part of a greater effort to restore threatened fish species — the Sacramento Valley Salmon Recovery Program. The project comes at a key time: A recent UC Davis study suggests that winter-run Chinook salmon could go extinct if no efforts are made to recover the species. The latest population count is less than 2,000. In the 1970s, there were more than 25,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project starts with rice paddies, says River Garden Farms General Manager Roger Cornwell. He's used to flooding fields during the off-season to provide a rest stop for millions of birds along the Pacific Flyway. Now, instead of just letting the water soak into the earth, he's made a change that mimics the natural floodplain of the Sacramento River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125462\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1138px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57.jpg\" alt='\"Floodplain fatties\" is a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat bugs farmed in the rice fields while swimming through the Sacramento River.' width=\"1138\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125462\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57.jpg 1138w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/river-floodplain-full-frame-cropped-3b8be65ae04adc44a9b08512acff3f89923fcf57-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1138px) 100vw, 1138px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Floodplain fatties\" is a nickname for the well-fed baby salmon and smelt who will eat bugs farmed in the rice fields while swimming through the Sacramento River. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of California Trout)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We're creating fish food,\" Cornwell says. \"It's very simple. We just pump the water in. Let it slow down and it starts to break down the carbon that is there. It creates algae, algae create bugs, and then we pump that right back to the river to feed the fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, 12 farmers are growing bugs on about 50,000 acres in the Sacramento area. That's about 70 pounds of bugs per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The group is figuring out the details about exactly how to get that fish food back into the river on a large scale. They hope to ramp up the project with as many rice farms as possible in the future — there are more than 500,000 acres of managed floodplains in the Sacramento Valley alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Cornwell says kinks still need to be worked out. \"I think for the farmer, it's more of how effectively can we get food to the fish,\" he says. \"We've got to have all the processes figured out to make it easy for everyone to implement,\" such as resolving complications with irrigation pumps and canals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carson Jeffres — an aquatic biologist with UC Davis — and Katz published a study last year that suggests that, when farmers and conservationists work together, there could be more fish in California Rivers. He thinks projects like this could help eliminate the popular farms versus fish argument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As opposed to standing with our heads in the sand, this is getting us to a place where we can have real impact and change over time,\" says Jeffres, who adds that the project could later be implemented in other rivers like the San Joaquin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back on the rice farm, Cornwell prepares to release the bug-rich water back into the Sacramento River through a system of pumps and canals. \"This water's been out here for right at three weeks right now,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Cornwell, who's farmed in the region for more than a decade, this science-farm partnership costs him about $45 per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're stepping out of our comfort zone,\" he says. \"As this grows people will see what we are doing, and we will start developing trust among neighbors — and then this program is just going to take off on its own.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the minimal cost is worth it to save fish and to make sure the acreage is around for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story comes to us from member station \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.capradio.org/\">\u003cem>Capital Public Radio\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> in Sacramento.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.capradio.org\">Capital Public Radio\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/125460/a-floating-fillet-rice-farmers-grow-bugs-to-replenish-californias-salmon","authors":["byline_bayareabites_125460"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_80"],"featImg":"bayareabites_125461","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_117521":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_117521","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"117521","score":null,"sort":[1495123008000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"many-of-californias-salmon-populations-unlikely-to-survive-the-century","title":"Many Of California's Salmon Populations Unlikely To Survive The Century","publishDate":1495123008,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Wild Chinook salmon, probably the most prized seafood item on the West Coast, could all but vanish from California within a hundred years, according to a report released Tuesday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The authors, with the University of California, Davis, and the conservation group California Trout, name climate change, dams and agriculture as the major threats to the prized and iconic fish, which is still the core of the state's robust fishing industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are just one species at risk of disappearing. All told, California is home to 31 genetically distinct kinds of salmon and trout — 23 of which are at risk of going extinct sometime in the next century, according to the report.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report, titled \u003cem>State of the Salmonids II: Fish in Hot Water\u003c/em>, comes as an update to a 2008 assessment that made similar conclusions – except that nine years ago, the outlook wasn't nearly so bad. At the time, the authors – among them UC Davis fisheries biologist Peter Moyle, who works at the university's Center for Watershed Sciences and also contributed to the new report – concluded that five genetically distinct types of California salmon might vanish in the next five decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the 50-year outlook is three times as bad, with 14 species and subspecies deemed likely to disappear if current trends continue. Though some factors affecting fish, like degraded river habitat and excessive diversions for irrigation, can be reversed, the report says climate change, already underway, could devastate California's salmon and trout populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As we began drafting the 2017 report, we realized that the new information and increasingly obvious impacts of climate change required us to rethink the metrics used in the 2008 report to evaluate status [of each species],\" says Moyle, who wrote the new report with UC Davis colleague Robert Lusardi and California Trout's conservation program coordinator, Patrick J. Samuel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salmon and trout depend on clean – and, especially – cold water. But as the Earth warms, there will be less snow and cold water in the mountains where rivers, like the once salmon-rich Sacramento and the Klamath, begin. Many waterways will become too warm for the fish to tolerate, or even dry up completely, in the summer months, the authors predict.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Agriculture can have similar impacts on watersheds, and in their 106-page report, the authors repeatedly cite production of food, marijuana, wine and other crops as a major threat to California's salmon and trout. Farming and grazing can foul waterways with eroded sediments and chemicals. Irrigating crops also means pumping large amounts of water out of rivers, which can disrupt salmon migration patterns or strand them in warm, shallow water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On California's North Coast, in a region known as the \"emerald triangle\" for its marijuana production, Coho salmon – once thick in nearly every small coastal creek as far south as Santa Cruz – are critically threatened, according to the report. The authors estimate that, as recently as 75 years ago, 100,000 to 300,000 Coho spawned each year in northern California's and southern Oregon's coastal streams. Today, less than 5,000 still swim upstream to lay and fertilize their eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117528\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1456px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Fingerling Chinook salmon are dumped into a holding pen as they are transfered from a truck into the Sacramento River in Rio Vista, Calif., in March 2014.\" width=\"1456\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117528\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85.jpg 1456w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-800x1099.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-768x1055.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-1020x1401.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-1180x1621.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-960x1319.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-375x515.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-520x714.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1456px) 100vw, 1456px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fingerling Chinook salmon are dumped into a holding pen as they are transfered from a truck into the Sacramento River in Rio Vista, Calif., in March 2014. \u003ccite>( Justin Sullivan/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Northern California marijuana growers — whose crop was legalized late last year – are \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/08/260788863/californias-pot-farms-could-leave-salmon-runs-truly-smoked\">known to suck dry creeks\u003c/a> where Coho salmon spawn, especially in the summer, when virtually no rain falls in most of the state and growers become especially reliant on irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juveniles of Chinook salmon, by contrast, spend just a few months in freshwater before migrating to the sea, which makes them somewhat less vulnerable to inland habitat loss. Still, Chinook salmon – the only salmon species that is commercially fished and marketed in California – are not doing well, either. The report says six of California's eight genetically distinct Chinook populations are likely to disappear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While hundreds of thousands of Chinook still spawn in California in a productive year, these prized fish are mostly the products of hatcheries that fertilize salmon eggs in tanks and release babies into the wild at several months of age. According to the authors, this life-support system, though good for fishermen in the short term, is bad for wild, self-sustaining runs of salmon and steelhead. That's because the hatchery fish often spawn with wild fish, weakening gene lines and blurring the genetic distinctions between different populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California's salmon are not necessarily all goners. The authors suggest restoring riverside floodplains and coastal marshes, where young fish find abundant food. They also recommend focusing conservation efforts on streams that arise from mountain springs. Such spring-fed creeks will likely remain cold even as the planet warms, and they might be the only places for salmon to spawn in the future. Removing dams also could allow salmon access to cold-water tributaries, the authors say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a media teleconference call on Tuesday, California Trout's executive director Curtis Knight said native salmon might still be a part of California's culture, economy and diet in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do still have time, and we are optimistic that with some effort, we can have a future that involves these fish,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Climate change, dams and agriculture are threatening Chinook salmon, the iconic fish at the core of the state's fishing industry, a report predicts. And 23 other fish species are also at risk.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1495123008,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":902},"headData":{"title":"Many Of California's Salmon Populations Unlikely To Survive The Century | KQED","description":"Climate change, dams and agriculture are threatening Chinook salmon, the iconic fish at the core of the state's fishing industry, a report predicts. And 23 other fish species are also at risk.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"117521 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=117521","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/05/18/many-of-californias-salmon-populations-unlikely-to-survive-the-century/","disqusTitle":"Many Of California's Salmon Populations Unlikely To Survive The Century","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Justin Sullivan/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"528826774","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=528826774&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/05/17/528826774/many-of-california-s-salmon-populations-unlikely-to-survive-the-century?ft=nprml&f=528826774","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 17 May 2017 19:08:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 17 May 2017 18:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 17 May 2017 19:08:12 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/117521/many-of-californias-salmon-populations-unlikely-to-survive-the-century","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Wild Chinook salmon, probably the most prized seafood item on the West Coast, could all but vanish from California within a hundred years, according to a report released Tuesday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The authors, with the University of California, Davis, and the conservation group California Trout, name climate change, dams and agriculture as the major threats to the prized and iconic fish, which is still the core of the state's robust fishing industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are just one species at risk of disappearing. All told, California is home to 31 genetically distinct kinds of salmon and trout — 23 of which are at risk of going extinct sometime in the next century, according to the report.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report, titled \u003cem>State of the Salmonids II: Fish in Hot Water\u003c/em>, comes as an update to a 2008 assessment that made similar conclusions – except that nine years ago, the outlook wasn't nearly so bad. At the time, the authors – among them UC Davis fisheries biologist Peter Moyle, who works at the university's Center for Watershed Sciences and also contributed to the new report – concluded that five genetically distinct types of California salmon might vanish in the next five decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the 50-year outlook is three times as bad, with 14 species and subspecies deemed likely to disappear if current trends continue. Though some factors affecting fish, like degraded river habitat and excessive diversions for irrigation, can be reversed, the report says climate change, already underway, could devastate California's salmon and trout populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As we began drafting the 2017 report, we realized that the new information and increasingly obvious impacts of climate change required us to rethink the metrics used in the 2008 report to evaluate status [of each species],\" says Moyle, who wrote the new report with UC Davis colleague Robert Lusardi and California Trout's conservation program coordinator, Patrick J. Samuel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salmon and trout depend on clean – and, especially – cold water. But as the Earth warms, there will be less snow and cold water in the mountains where rivers, like the once salmon-rich Sacramento and the Klamath, begin. Many waterways will become too warm for the fish to tolerate, or even dry up completely, in the summer months, the authors predict.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Agriculture can have similar impacts on watersheds, and in their 106-page report, the authors repeatedly cite production of food, marijuana, wine and other crops as a major threat to California's salmon and trout. Farming and grazing can foul waterways with eroded sediments and chemicals. Irrigating crops also means pumping large amounts of water out of rivers, which can disrupt salmon migration patterns or strand them in warm, shallow water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On California's North Coast, in a region known as the \"emerald triangle\" for its marijuana production, Coho salmon – once thick in nearly every small coastal creek as far south as Santa Cruz – are critically threatened, according to the report. The authors estimate that, as recently as 75 years ago, 100,000 to 300,000 Coho spawned each year in northern California's and southern Oregon's coastal streams. Today, less than 5,000 still swim upstream to lay and fertilize their eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117528\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1456px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Fingerling Chinook salmon are dumped into a holding pen as they are transfered from a truck into the Sacramento River in Rio Vista, Calif., in March 2014.\" width=\"1456\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117528\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85.jpg 1456w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-800x1099.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-768x1055.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-1020x1401.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-1180x1621.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-960x1319.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-375x515.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/gettyimages-480522079_custom-bb125b7888cf706145f830d4601a5eff6387a844-s1500-c85-520x714.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1456px) 100vw, 1456px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fingerling Chinook salmon are dumped into a holding pen as they are transfered from a truck into the Sacramento River in Rio Vista, Calif., in March 2014. \u003ccite>( Justin Sullivan/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Northern California marijuana growers — whose crop was legalized late last year – are \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/08/260788863/californias-pot-farms-could-leave-salmon-runs-truly-smoked\">known to suck dry creeks\u003c/a> where Coho salmon spawn, especially in the summer, when virtually no rain falls in most of the state and growers become especially reliant on irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juveniles of Chinook salmon, by contrast, spend just a few months in freshwater before migrating to the sea, which makes them somewhat less vulnerable to inland habitat loss. Still, Chinook salmon – the only salmon species that is commercially fished and marketed in California – are not doing well, either. The report says six of California's eight genetically distinct Chinook populations are likely to disappear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While hundreds of thousands of Chinook still spawn in California in a productive year, these prized fish are mostly the products of hatcheries that fertilize salmon eggs in tanks and release babies into the wild at several months of age. According to the authors, this life-support system, though good for fishermen in the short term, is bad for wild, self-sustaining runs of salmon and steelhead. That's because the hatchery fish often spawn with wild fish, weakening gene lines and blurring the genetic distinctions between different populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California's salmon are not necessarily all goners. The authors suggest restoring riverside floodplains and coastal marshes, where young fish find abundant food. They also recommend focusing conservation efforts on streams that arise from mountain springs. Such spring-fed creeks will likely remain cold even as the planet warms, and they might be the only places for salmon to spawn in the future. Removing dams also could allow salmon access to cold-water tributaries, the authors say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a media teleconference call on Tuesday, California Trout's executive director Curtis Knight said native salmon might still be a part of California's culture, economy and diet in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do still have time, and we are optimistic that with some effort, we can have a future that involves these fish,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/117521/many-of-californias-salmon-populations-unlikely-to-survive-the-century","authors":["byline_bayareabites_117521"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_80"],"featImg":"bayareabites_117522","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_86510":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_86510","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"86510","score":null,"sort":[1408650171000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water","title":"California Drought Has Wild Salmon Competing With Almonds For Water","publishDate":1408650171,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/chinook-salmon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/chinook-salmon.jpg\" alt=\"A young Chinook salmon, called a smolt, near Vallejo, Calif., on April 24, 2014. North Coast tribes and environmentalists fear that the smolts and Chinooks may not survive this year's low river flows and warm water. Photo: Rich Pedroncelli/AP\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86532\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young Chinook salmon, called a smolt, near Vallejo, Calif., on April 24, 2014. North Coast tribes and environmentalists fear that the smolts and Chinooks may not survive this year's low river flows and warm water. Photo: Rich Pedroncelli/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/21/342167846/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ongoing \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2014/07/31/336937629/most-of-california-reported-to-be-in-extreme-drought\">California drought\u003c/a> has pitted wild salmon against farmers in a fight for water. While growers of almonds, one of the state's biggest and most lucrative crops, enjoy booming production and skyrocketing sales to China, the fish, it seems, might be left high and dry this summer—and maybe even dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thousands of adult king, or Chinook, salmon are now struggling to survive in the Klamath River of northern California, where waters are running dangerously low and warm due to diversion of river flows into the Central Valley, an intensely farmed agricultural area. If more water isn't let into the Klamath River within the coming days, the salmon, which are migrating upstream toward their spawning grounds, could succumb to a disease called gill rot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1793px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/2014deadfishgillrot-1_slide-982a4844ce702944e5b6297c871329fce650f81c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/2014deadfishgillrot-1_slide-982a4844ce702944e5b6297c871329fce650f81c.jpg\" alt=\"Gill rot in a dead fish taken from the Klamath River in California on July 23, 2014. Photo: Courtesy of Frankie Myers\" width=\"1793\" height=\"1195\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86512\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gill rot in a dead fish taken from the Klamath River in California on July 23, 2014. Photo: Courtesy of Frankie Myers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The disease, which played a role in the 2002 Klamath \u003ca href=\"http://www.fws.gov/arcata/fisheries/reports/technical/Klamath_River_Dieoff_Mortality_Report_AFWO_01_03.pdf\">die-off\u003c/a> of tens of thousands of Chinook, flourishes in warm water and is already creeping through the salmon population. Frankie Myers, a member of the Yurok tribe, a Native American group that lives in the Klamath River basin, tells The Salt about 1,000 salmon have already died this summer in a 100-mile stretch of river. Now, the remaining fish, which cannot survive in water much warmer than 70 degrees, are clustering in dense schools around the mouths of cold tributary streams, seeking relief from the sun-warmed river.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members of local tribes have pleaded with government officials to step in and help by releasing cold water from the federally managed Trinity Lake, a reservoir upstream of the salmon. This would chill the river, stop the disease in its tracks and allow the salmon to continue their spawning migration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is, most of Trinity Lake's water has been promised by government water managers to other users, including cities and industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Tuesday, members of Klamath basin tribal groups convened in Sacramento to rally officials to save the Klamath's Chinook salmon. \"For us, salmon is life,\" Chook-Chook Hillman, a 30-year-old tribesman who was at the rally, tells The Salt. \"Without salmon, we'd might as well just pack it up as a people.\" Hillman says the regional director of the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, which manages much of the state's water, promised in a private meeting that his agency would decide sometime Thursday whether or not to give the Klamath salmon more water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Klamath River flows into the Pacific Ocean near Oregon and is naturally separated from the interior regions of California by a coastal mountain range. But in the 1960s, the Bureau of Reclamation built an 11-mile tunnel connecting Trinity Lake to the Sacramento River basin to send Klamath-basin water to farmers in the San Joaquin Valley. Today, the arid valley is a major producer of the world's almonds, as well as other nuts and stone fruits, grapes and alfalfa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the North Coast tribal people question the fairness of a system by which crops hundreds of miles away depend on their river water at the expense of salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not our fault they have orchards to water in the desert, and it's not the fish's fault, either,\" Hillman says. \"We shouldn't have to pay for that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the BOR technically \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/22/303726931/fields-and-farm-jobs-dry-up-with-californias-worsening-drought\">has not allotted any water\u003c/a> to farmers this year due to drought, producers in the valley whose supplies have been cut may still purchase water from others who didn't experience cutbacks. Others may tap into the state's shrinking groundwater reservoirs. One way or another, most fruit orchards receive the water they need each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almonds are one of California's most important crops, with 80 percent of the crop now exported (\u003ca href=\"http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2013-11/30/content_17142042.htm\">mostly to China\u003c/a>), according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture. From 2004 to 2013, California's almond harvest \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/California_Ag_Statistics/Reports/2012cas-all.pdf\">exploded\u003c/a> from a billion to 2 billion pounds and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/Fruits_and_Nuts/201406almom.pdf\">record high production\u003c/a> is forecasted for this year, in spite of ongoing drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1605px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/almond-orchard_slide-9ead9a5092232c7ae6aee0ff928fb15610c2f9e3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/almond-orchard_slide-9ead9a5092232c7ae6aee0ff928fb15610c2f9e3.jpg\" alt=\"A field of almond trees is reflected in an irrigation canal in Firebaugh, Calif., in the San Joaquin Valley in 2009. The Almond Board of California says that in the past two decades, the industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. Photo: Robyn Beck/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1605\" height=\"1070\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86511\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A field of almond trees is reflected in an irrigation canal in Firebaugh, Calif., in the San Joaquin Valley in 2009. The Almond Board of California says that in the past two decades, the industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. Photo: Robyn Beck/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jenny Nicolau with the Almond Board of California says almond growers have learned how to use water more efficiently. In the past two decades, she notes, the almond industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. And while production has increased, the industry's water use has remained about the same for at least a decade. She says agriculture uses less than 50 percent of the state's water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://livingwithwaterscarcity.com/\">David Zetland\u003c/a>, a water policy analyst and author, says this is a distortion of facts. He tells The Salt that of all the state's water that is diverted from rivers and reservoirs, 80 percent ultimately lands in fields and orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades ago, dams built to create reservoirs for agricultural use dented or killed most of California's salmon runs. Relatively healthy runs of Chinook salmon still spawn in the Sacramento and the Klamath rivers, though sustaining them involves a complex life-support system of hatcheries, transporting migrating fish in trucks and boats and constant monitoring of water supplies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As of Aug. 20, the BOR \u003ca href=\"http://www.usbr.gov/mp/cvo/vungvari/wtr_rpt.pdf\">was pumping\u003c/a> about 2,100 cubic feet per second of water from Trinity Lake into the Sacramento River system, leaving just 430 cubic feet per second flowing into the Trinity River, a major tributary of the Klamath. Many of the salmon currently at risk are stranded below the confluence of these two rivers, which means higher releases from Trinity Lake could save them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Janet Sierzputowski, a BOR spokeswoman, says the water currently being diverted from the Trinty-Klamath system is intended to benefit the Sacramento River's own salmon. After all, two of the Sacramento's four distinct salmon runs — the spring Chinook and the winter Chinook — are on the endangered species list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://goldengatesalmonassociation.com/about-ggsa/board-officers/\">Zeke Grader\u003c/a>, a board member of the Golden Gate Salmon Association, an environmental group, says the Bureau's claim is \"nonsense.\" He explains that, by this time of year, the Sacramento's threatened spring run and endangered winter run Chinook are already too far upstream to reap any of the benefits of the cool Trinity Lake water, which flows into the Sacramento downstream of where Grader says the fish are now spawning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're not [transferring Trinity water to the Sacramento] for the salmon,\" he says. \"They're doing it for the almonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a statement released on Aug. 19, the Bureau of Reclamation's regional director David Murillo said conditions affecting the health of salmon in the Klamath system would be \"monitored on a real-time basis\" and, if necessary, addressed with more water released into the river.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But real-time may not be fast enough. That's because it takes three to four days for water to flow from Trinity Lake to the region where the salmon are currently holding, according to Craig Tucker, the Karuk tribe's natural resources advocate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're telling us they'll let water go once they see dead fish,\" Tucker says. \"But once an epidemic starts, it's hard to stop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Myers, the government's reluctance to save the salmon his tribe depends on comes as yet another blow to their embattled traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not only are they asking the Native Americans to sacrifice their culture, but we're doing it so we can sell almonds to the Chinese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Thousands of Chinook salmon are struggling to survive in the Klamath River, where waters are running dangerously low and warm. Cold reservoir water is instead going to farms in the Central Valley.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1408661075,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1370},"headData":{"title":"California Drought Has Wild Salmon Competing With Almonds For Water | KQED","description":"Thousands of Chinook salmon are struggling to survive in the Klamath River, where waters are running dangerously low and warm. Cold reservoir water is instead going to farms in the Central Valley.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"86510 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=86510","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/08/21/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water/","disqusTitle":"California Drought Has Wild Salmon Competing With Almonds For Water","nprByline":"Alastair Bland","nprStoryId":"342167846","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=342167846&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/21/342167846/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water?ft=3&f=342167846","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 21 Aug 2014 13:08:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 21 Aug 2014 12:47:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 21 Aug 2014 13:08:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/86510/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/chinook-salmon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/chinook-salmon.jpg\" alt=\"A young Chinook salmon, called a smolt, near Vallejo, Calif., on April 24, 2014. North Coast tribes and environmentalists fear that the smolts and Chinooks may not survive this year's low river flows and warm water. Photo: Rich Pedroncelli/AP\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86532\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young Chinook salmon, called a smolt, near Vallejo, Calif., on April 24, 2014. North Coast tribes and environmentalists fear that the smolts and Chinooks may not survive this year's low river flows and warm water. Photo: Rich Pedroncelli/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/21/342167846/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ongoing \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2014/07/31/336937629/most-of-california-reported-to-be-in-extreme-drought\">California drought\u003c/a> has pitted wild salmon against farmers in a fight for water. While growers of almonds, one of the state's biggest and most lucrative crops, enjoy booming production and skyrocketing sales to China, the fish, it seems, might be left high and dry this summer—and maybe even dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thousands of adult king, or Chinook, salmon are now struggling to survive in the Klamath River of northern California, where waters are running dangerously low and warm due to diversion of river flows into the Central Valley, an intensely farmed agricultural area. If more water isn't let into the Klamath River within the coming days, the salmon, which are migrating upstream toward their spawning grounds, could succumb to a disease called gill rot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1793px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/2014deadfishgillrot-1_slide-982a4844ce702944e5b6297c871329fce650f81c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/2014deadfishgillrot-1_slide-982a4844ce702944e5b6297c871329fce650f81c.jpg\" alt=\"Gill rot in a dead fish taken from the Klamath River in California on July 23, 2014. Photo: Courtesy of Frankie Myers\" width=\"1793\" height=\"1195\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86512\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gill rot in a dead fish taken from the Klamath River in California on July 23, 2014. Photo: Courtesy of Frankie Myers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The disease, which played a role in the 2002 Klamath \u003ca href=\"http://www.fws.gov/arcata/fisheries/reports/technical/Klamath_River_Dieoff_Mortality_Report_AFWO_01_03.pdf\">die-off\u003c/a> of tens of thousands of Chinook, flourishes in warm water and is already creeping through the salmon population. Frankie Myers, a member of the Yurok tribe, a Native American group that lives in the Klamath River basin, tells The Salt about 1,000 salmon have already died this summer in a 100-mile stretch of river. Now, the remaining fish, which cannot survive in water much warmer than 70 degrees, are clustering in dense schools around the mouths of cold tributary streams, seeking relief from the sun-warmed river.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members of local tribes have pleaded with government officials to step in and help by releasing cold water from the federally managed Trinity Lake, a reservoir upstream of the salmon. This would chill the river, stop the disease in its tracks and allow the salmon to continue their spawning migration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is, most of Trinity Lake's water has been promised by government water managers to other users, including cities and industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Tuesday, members of Klamath basin tribal groups convened in Sacramento to rally officials to save the Klamath's Chinook salmon. \"For us, salmon is life,\" Chook-Chook Hillman, a 30-year-old tribesman who was at the rally, tells The Salt. \"Without salmon, we'd might as well just pack it up as a people.\" Hillman says the regional director of the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, which manages much of the state's water, promised in a private meeting that his agency would decide sometime Thursday whether or not to give the Klamath salmon more water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Klamath River flows into the Pacific Ocean near Oregon and is naturally separated from the interior regions of California by a coastal mountain range. But in the 1960s, the Bureau of Reclamation built an 11-mile tunnel connecting Trinity Lake to the Sacramento River basin to send Klamath-basin water to farmers in the San Joaquin Valley. Today, the arid valley is a major producer of the world's almonds, as well as other nuts and stone fruits, grapes and alfalfa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the North Coast tribal people question the fairness of a system by which crops hundreds of miles away depend on their river water at the expense of salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not our fault they have orchards to water in the desert, and it's not the fish's fault, either,\" Hillman says. \"We shouldn't have to pay for that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the BOR technically \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/22/303726931/fields-and-farm-jobs-dry-up-with-californias-worsening-drought\">has not allotted any water\u003c/a> to farmers this year due to drought, producers in the valley whose supplies have been cut may still purchase water from others who didn't experience cutbacks. Others may tap into the state's shrinking groundwater reservoirs. One way or another, most fruit orchards receive the water they need each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almonds are one of California's most important crops, with 80 percent of the crop now exported (\u003ca href=\"http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2013-11/30/content_17142042.htm\">mostly to China\u003c/a>), according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture. From 2004 to 2013, California's almond harvest \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/California_Ag_Statistics/Reports/2012cas-all.pdf\">exploded\u003c/a> from a billion to 2 billion pounds and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/Fruits_and_Nuts/201406almom.pdf\">record high production\u003c/a> is forecasted for this year, in spite of ongoing drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1605px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/almond-orchard_slide-9ead9a5092232c7ae6aee0ff928fb15610c2f9e3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/almond-orchard_slide-9ead9a5092232c7ae6aee0ff928fb15610c2f9e3.jpg\" alt=\"A field of almond trees is reflected in an irrigation canal in Firebaugh, Calif., in the San Joaquin Valley in 2009. The Almond Board of California says that in the past two decades, the industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. Photo: Robyn Beck/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1605\" height=\"1070\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86511\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A field of almond trees is reflected in an irrigation canal in Firebaugh, Calif., in the San Joaquin Valley in 2009. The Almond Board of California says that in the past two decades, the industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. Photo: Robyn Beck/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jenny Nicolau with the Almond Board of California says almond growers have learned how to use water more efficiently. In the past two decades, she notes, the almond industry has reduced its water consumption by 33 percent per pound of almonds produced. And while production has increased, the industry's water use has remained about the same for at least a decade. She says agriculture uses less than 50 percent of the state's water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://livingwithwaterscarcity.com/\">David Zetland\u003c/a>, a water policy analyst and author, says this is a distortion of facts. He tells The Salt that of all the state's water that is diverted from rivers and reservoirs, 80 percent ultimately lands in fields and orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades ago, dams built to create reservoirs for agricultural use dented or killed most of California's salmon runs. Relatively healthy runs of Chinook salmon still spawn in the Sacramento and the Klamath rivers, though sustaining them involves a complex life-support system of hatcheries, transporting migrating fish in trucks and boats and constant monitoring of water supplies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As of Aug. 20, the BOR \u003ca href=\"http://www.usbr.gov/mp/cvo/vungvari/wtr_rpt.pdf\">was pumping\u003c/a> about 2,100 cubic feet per second of water from Trinity Lake into the Sacramento River system, leaving just 430 cubic feet per second flowing into the Trinity River, a major tributary of the Klamath. Many of the salmon currently at risk are stranded below the confluence of these two rivers, which means higher releases from Trinity Lake could save them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Janet Sierzputowski, a BOR spokeswoman, says the water currently being diverted from the Trinty-Klamath system is intended to benefit the Sacramento River's own salmon. After all, two of the Sacramento's four distinct salmon runs — the spring Chinook and the winter Chinook — are on the endangered species list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://goldengatesalmonassociation.com/about-ggsa/board-officers/\">Zeke Grader\u003c/a>, a board member of the Golden Gate Salmon Association, an environmental group, says the Bureau's claim is \"nonsense.\" He explains that, by this time of year, the Sacramento's threatened spring run and endangered winter run Chinook are already too far upstream to reap any of the benefits of the cool Trinity Lake water, which flows into the Sacramento downstream of where Grader says the fish are now spawning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're not [transferring Trinity water to the Sacramento] for the salmon,\" he says. \"They're doing it for the almonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a statement released on Aug. 19, the Bureau of Reclamation's regional director David Murillo said conditions affecting the health of salmon in the Klamath system would be \"monitored on a real-time basis\" and, if necessary, addressed with more water released into the river.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But real-time may not be fast enough. That's because it takes three to four days for water to flow from Trinity Lake to the region where the salmon are currently holding, according to Craig Tucker, the Karuk tribe's natural resources advocate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're telling us they'll let water go once they see dead fish,\" Tucker says. \"But once an epidemic starts, it's hard to stop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Myers, the government's reluctance to save the salmon his tribe depends on comes as yet another blow to their embattled traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not only are they asking the Native Americans to sacrifice their culture, but we're doing it so we can sell almonds to the Chinese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/86510/california-drought-has-wild-salmon-competing-with-almonds-for-water","authors":["byline_bayareabites_86510"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10337","bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_11813","bayareabites_13725","bayareabites_80","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_1344"],"featImg":"bayareabites_86532","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_50438":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_50438","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"50438","score":null,"sort":[1351321018000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean","title":" The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean","publishDate":1351321018,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Celebrate the release of The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean by Bay Area Bites contributor Maria Finn at this Sunday's Picnic in the Presidio. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1351403033,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1036},"headData":{"title":"The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean | KQED","description":"Celebrate the release of The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean by Bay Area Bites contributor Maria Finn at this Sunday's Picnic in the Presidio. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"50438 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=50438","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/","disqusTitle":" The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean","path":"/bayareabites/50438/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/50438/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_9549","bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_10841","bayareabites_10659","bayareabites_10839","bayareabites_10443","bayareabites_10840","bayareabites_431"],"featImg":"bayareabites_50473","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_46830":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_46830","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"46830","score":null,"sort":[1344446434000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"return-of-the-chinook","title":"Return of the Chinook","publishDate":1344446434,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-1new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-1new.jpg\" alt=\"The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\" title=\"The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46898\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had awoken at 4:30 am, dug around for my Xtra tuff boots, the footwear of choice for fishing and made my way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltylady.com/\">Salty Lady\u003c/a> in Sausalito. In the cool, foggy mist, I remembered a familiar feeling from my old fishing days in Alaska. Tired. But as I neared Clipper Harbor, the smells of diesel fuel from boats firing up, the sounds of the engines starting and I hurried up, as the sports fishermen were already claiming spots at the back rail. In the novel, “\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Old_Man_and_the_Sea\">The Old Man and the Sea\u003c/a>” the veteran fisherman, Santiago swears at a giant fish towing him out to sea, “Fish,\" he said, \"I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends.” This phrase echoed in my blurry brain as I made my way through the foggy morning towards the lights of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltylady.com/\">Salty Lady\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2008-2009 the number of Chinook salmon returning to California waterways was so low that \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/\">Fish & Game\u003c/a> closed fishing to both commercial and sport fishing. In 2009, the number of salmon returning to the Sacramento River was only 39,500. The 2010 fish count improved slightly, and by 2011, there were 114,741 Chinook showing up to spawn in the Sacramento River. This year, they are expecting 820,000 Chinook returning to the Sacramento River, and even more bound for the Klamath River. The reasons for this vary. Many fishermen say the crash in numbers is due to too much water being taken from the Sacramento River by farmers, but Fish & Game claim it’s due to improved conditions in the ocean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, commercial fishermen, fishmongers, chefs, and diners are delighted, but perhaps the most excited of the bunch are people who love to fish. And what’s not to love? You get a boat ride, see some wildlife, have an adrenaline spike when you hook the fish, and then delicious food for weeks. Of course, this is the ocean, and there’s always the possibility of stormy seas, fear and illness instead of delight, no fish, and well, worse can happen, as anyone who has read \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sea-Wolf\">Seawolf\u003c/a>, the San Francisco Bay classic shipwreck tale by Jack London, could tell you. Though it has been some time since shipwrecked people were rescued and then enslaved by seal hunters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we were an optimistic crew. For weeks people had been catching their limits—often before noon, as rumor has it, and the boats came back early. Gunard Mahl, of San Francisco had been out the week before. Not only did he catch his limit, but he also spotted over 15 whales, including a blue whale, among many gray and humpback whales. The only person not brimming with enthusiasm was the skipper, Tak Kuwatani, who warned us that the fish run had tapered off and they only caught four the day before. “Remember,” he said. “This is fishing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man fishing next to me, Jonathan Van Bourg from Inverness, commented, “Then we can just eat the bait. I love anchovies.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deckhands, Eric Horne and Anthony Largo, gave us instructions. Keep our bait fresh, no scratches. Take your time when you get a bite, don’t get too excited. “Remember, today you might only get one chance,” Eric said. “Don’t blow it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-2new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-2new.jpg\" alt=\"Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation. \" title=\"Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation. \" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46899\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We headed out under the Golden Gate Bridge, the water mostly calm with a few swells, the morning fog settled around us. Sandy Kaplan was out fishing with her father, Madison Kaplan. She had been asking him to take her out for the past five years. “There weren’t any fish,” he explained. “They are back, and she’s starting high school in the fall. It seemed like a good time.” Christopher Hart, a thirteen year old from Pasadena, who convinced his father to take him out, spotted the first porpoise swimming alongside us. We drank coffee, the queasy among us kept their eyes on the horizon, and we finally made it Duxsbury Reef off Bolinas. Other charter boats were already there, hopefuls out on the deck, soaking their lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/3_Chinook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/3_Chinook.jpg\" alt=\"It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing. \" title=\"It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46900\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We dropped our hooks and then waited. And waited. Checked our bait. All of us out here in the cloudy drizzle, different ages, backgrounds, most from the San Francisco Bay area—all really excited that the salmon were returning. The night before a friend had asked me, “Really, you’re doing this just for food?” It’s hard to explain fishing to those who don’t do it. Yes it’s food, but you caught it yourself, on a boat. I had spent eight years in Alaska, working on commercial fishing boats and for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. There is no animal I admire more than Wild Pacific salmon and nothing quickens my heart like a fish run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I worked on a salmon seiner with an all female crew, we’d hold a spot in front of the stream for the season opener to begin. Around us, salmon occasionally broke the surface of the water, and landed back on their sides. The effect of these jumpers on the fishermen is much like songbirds on house cats. It stirs their primitive hunting instincts and every fiber of their beings twitched with anticipation to go after them. There was an intersection between these creatures and ourselves, our own primal pulse coming into tune with nature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there’s eating the fish, pulled straight from the water, its soul still in it and almost nobody has touched it but you. This is a gift the ocean gives us and it’s important to brave the elements to remember that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If I catch one,” Jonathan said, “I’m eating it raw. I’m having all my neighbors over for sashimi.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want eggs to brine,” I said. “And I may freeze some for winter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“But it’s so much better fresh,” he argued.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “Yeah, but they’re big. And salmon lasts for quite a while,” I said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/4_Chinook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/4_Chinook.jpg\" alt=\"Hectors fish on board.\" title=\"Hectors fish on board.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46901\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hector’s fish on board.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were having this argument, a shout came from the stern of the boat. \"Fish On!\" We ran back and cheered on Hector Hurtdio from Santa Rosa, as he wrestled in a king salmon. He held his cigarette clenched between his lips and though it did get a bit dampened during the struggle, it never extinguished. When Eric got the net under it and it was pulled aboard, we all cheered, and Hector threw his hands into the air and yelled, “Thank you God!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a beauty. About 15-18 pounds, bright silver and fresh as can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everybody, get on gear,” Eric yelled and we scattered for our poles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It got quiet again and some people dozed. We looked out for porpoises and seals. Spied on the other boats. Checked to make sure our bait was fresh. I think I may have prayed for a salmon, and it was almost answered. My neighbor Jonathan was dozing off on deck, when Anthony, the deckhand, ran past me and lunged for his pole as the line was ripping out to sea. Jonathan awoke from his catnap, chased Anthony down the side and reeled in a salmon. We cheered. Another beauty, upwards of 15-16 pounds. People congratulated him. “The fish caught itself. I was sleeping,” he explained. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-fish-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-fish-new.jpg\" alt=\"A freshly caught California Chinook\" title=\"A freshly caught California Chinook\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46931\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A freshly caught California Chinook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another man landed a fish. I let my bait soak and talked with the captain, Tak Kuwatani, who had been running fishing charters for 60 years in the region. “Best year I’ve seen in 16 years,” he said. “But something happened this week. There’s krill, that’s what I look for with the sonar.” I watched us pass over a school that glowed red on the screen. “Water warmed up, salmon don’t like that. But next run will start again. We’re just in-between.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, I spoke with Hector, and he told me that this was his second fishing trip this year. On the first one, everyone caught his or her limit, except him. He caught nothing. Someone gave him a fish head. “I took home, made soup,” he said. He shrugged. “But I just knew I had to catch one. So I came back out. And I did.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chinook-7new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chinook-7new.jpg\" alt=\"Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes by our boat.\" title=\"Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes passes by our boat.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46906\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes by The Salty Lady.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Excited by the return of California California salmon, locals are keeping fishing charter boats busy. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1344446434,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1507},"headData":{"title":"Return of the Chinook | KQED","description":"Excited by the return of California California salmon, locals are keeping fishing charter boats busy. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"46830 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=46830","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/08/return-of-the-chinook/","disqusTitle":"Return of the Chinook","path":"/bayareabites/46830/return-of-the-chinook","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-1new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-1new.jpg\" alt=\"The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\" title=\"The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46898\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Salty Lady leaves the San Francisco Bay.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had awoken at 4:30 am, dug around for my Xtra tuff boots, the footwear of choice for fishing and made my way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltylady.com/\">Salty Lady\u003c/a> in Sausalito. In the cool, foggy mist, I remembered a familiar feeling from my old fishing days in Alaska. Tired. But as I neared Clipper Harbor, the smells of diesel fuel from boats firing up, the sounds of the engines starting and I hurried up, as the sports fishermen were already claiming spots at the back rail. In the novel, “\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Old_Man_and_the_Sea\">The Old Man and the Sea\u003c/a>” the veteran fisherman, Santiago swears at a giant fish towing him out to sea, “Fish,\" he said, \"I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends.” This phrase echoed in my blurry brain as I made my way through the foggy morning towards the lights of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltylady.com/\">Salty Lady\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2008-2009 the number of Chinook salmon returning to California waterways was so low that \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/\">Fish & Game\u003c/a> closed fishing to both commercial and sport fishing. In 2009, the number of salmon returning to the Sacramento River was only 39,500. The 2010 fish count improved slightly, and by 2011, there were 114,741 Chinook showing up to spawn in the Sacramento River. This year, they are expecting 820,000 Chinook returning to the Sacramento River, and even more bound for the Klamath River. The reasons for this vary. Many fishermen say the crash in numbers is due to too much water being taken from the Sacramento River by farmers, but Fish & Game claim it’s due to improved conditions in the ocean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, commercial fishermen, fishmongers, chefs, and diners are delighted, but perhaps the most excited of the bunch are people who love to fish. And what’s not to love? You get a boat ride, see some wildlife, have an adrenaline spike when you hook the fish, and then delicious food for weeks. Of course, this is the ocean, and there’s always the possibility of stormy seas, fear and illness instead of delight, no fish, and well, worse can happen, as anyone who has read \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sea-Wolf\">Seawolf\u003c/a>, the San Francisco Bay classic shipwreck tale by Jack London, could tell you. Though it has been some time since shipwrecked people were rescued and then enslaved by seal hunters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we were an optimistic crew. For weeks people had been catching their limits—often before noon, as rumor has it, and the boats came back early. Gunard Mahl, of San Francisco had been out the week before. Not only did he catch his limit, but he also spotted over 15 whales, including a blue whale, among many gray and humpback whales. The only person not brimming with enthusiasm was the skipper, Tak Kuwatani, who warned us that the fish run had tapered off and they only caught four the day before. “Remember,” he said. “This is fishing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man fishing next to me, Jonathan Van Bourg from Inverness, commented, “Then we can just eat the bait. I love anchovies.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deckhands, Eric Horne and Anthony Largo, gave us instructions. Keep our bait fresh, no scratches. Take your time when you get a bite, don’t get too excited. “Remember, today you might only get one chance,” Eric said. “Don’t blow it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-2new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-2new.jpg\" alt=\"Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation. \" title=\"Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation. \" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46899\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eric Horne, deckhand on the Salty Lady, gives orientation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We headed out under the Golden Gate Bridge, the water mostly calm with a few swells, the morning fog settled around us. Sandy Kaplan was out fishing with her father, Madison Kaplan. She had been asking him to take her out for the past five years. “There weren’t any fish,” he explained. “They are back, and she’s starting high school in the fall. It seemed like a good time.” Christopher Hart, a thirteen year old from Pasadena, who convinced his father to take him out, spotted the first porpoise swimming alongside us. We drank coffee, the queasy among us kept their eyes on the horizon, and we finally made it Duxsbury Reef off Bolinas. Other charter boats were already there, hopefuls out on the deck, soaking their lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/3_Chinook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/3_Chinook.jpg\" alt=\"It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing. \" title=\"It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46900\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>It took Sandy Kaplan five years to get her father to take her out salmon fishing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We dropped our hooks and then waited. And waited. Checked our bait. All of us out here in the cloudy drizzle, different ages, backgrounds, most from the San Francisco Bay area—all really excited that the salmon were returning. The night before a friend had asked me, “Really, you’re doing this just for food?” It’s hard to explain fishing to those who don’t do it. Yes it’s food, but you caught it yourself, on a boat. I had spent eight years in Alaska, working on commercial fishing boats and for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. There is no animal I admire more than Wild Pacific salmon and nothing quickens my heart like a fish run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I worked on a salmon seiner with an all female crew, we’d hold a spot in front of the stream for the season opener to begin. Around us, salmon occasionally broke the surface of the water, and landed back on their sides. The effect of these jumpers on the fishermen is much like songbirds on house cats. It stirs their primitive hunting instincts and every fiber of their beings twitched with anticipation to go after them. There was an intersection between these creatures and ourselves, our own primal pulse coming into tune with nature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there’s eating the fish, pulled straight from the water, its soul still in it and almost nobody has touched it but you. This is a gift the ocean gives us and it’s important to brave the elements to remember that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If I catch one,” Jonathan said, “I’m eating it raw. I’m having all my neighbors over for sashimi.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want eggs to brine,” I said. “And I may freeze some for winter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“But it’s so much better fresh,” he argued.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “Yeah, but they’re big. And salmon lasts for quite a while,” I said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/4_Chinook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/4_Chinook.jpg\" alt=\"Hectors fish on board.\" title=\"Hectors fish on board.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46901\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hector’s fish on board.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were having this argument, a shout came from the stern of the boat. \"Fish On!\" We ran back and cheered on Hector Hurtdio from Santa Rosa, as he wrestled in a king salmon. He held his cigarette clenched between his lips and though it did get a bit dampened during the struggle, it never extinguished. When Eric got the net under it and it was pulled aboard, we all cheered, and Hector threw his hands into the air and yelled, “Thank you God!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a beauty. About 15-18 pounds, bright silver and fresh as can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everybody, get on gear,” Eric yelled and we scattered for our poles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It got quiet again and some people dozed. We looked out for porpoises and seals. Spied on the other boats. Checked to make sure our bait was fresh. I think I may have prayed for a salmon, and it was almost answered. My neighbor Jonathan was dozing off on deck, when Anthony, the deckhand, ran past me and lunged for his pole as the line was ripping out to sea. Jonathan awoke from his catnap, chased Anthony down the side and reeled in a salmon. We cheered. Another beauty, upwards of 15-16 pounds. People congratulated him. “The fish caught itself. I was sleeping,” he explained. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-fish-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Chinook-fish-new.jpg\" alt=\"A freshly caught California Chinook\" title=\"A freshly caught California Chinook\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46931\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A freshly caught California Chinook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another man landed a fish. I let my bait soak and talked with the captain, Tak Kuwatani, who had been running fishing charters for 60 years in the region. “Best year I’ve seen in 16 years,” he said. “But something happened this week. There’s krill, that’s what I look for with the sonar.” I watched us pass over a school that glowed red on the screen. “Water warmed up, salmon don’t like that. But next run will start again. We’re just in-between.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, I spoke with Hector, and he told me that this was his second fishing trip this year. On the first one, everyone caught his or her limit, except him. He caught nothing. Someone gave him a fish head. “I took home, made soup,” he said. He shrugged. “But I just knew I had to catch one. So I came back out. And I did.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chinook-7new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chinook-7new.jpg\" alt=\"Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes by our boat.\" title=\"Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes passes by our boat.\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46906\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Old Time Monterey Commercial fishing boat passes by The Salty Lady.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/46830/return-of-the-chinook","authors":["5371"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10658","bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_10659","bayareabites_80"],"featImg":"bayareabites_46901","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_43905":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43905","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43905","score":null,"sort":[1338476437000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin","title":"The Whole Fish: Snout to Tail Movement Meet Gills to Adipose Fin","publishDate":1338476437,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Bay area chefs have been serving up funky parts of animals, from pig heart sandwiches at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\">Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa to pig trotter croquettes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> in San Francisco, as a way to show respect to the animals we eat. This “Snout to Tail” movement is leading people to embrace the lesser-used parts of cows and pigs and it encourages people to get more adventurous with their eating. For home cooks, it can also be a big money saver to learn how to make stock out of bones or braise tougher cuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560a.jpg\" alt=\"A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Sol Gate Studios \" title=\"A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Sol Gate Studios \" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43926\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now there’s a new trend burgeoning, which I am calling “gill to adipose fin,” or using the whole fish. This summer, California is enjoying a strong Chinook salmon comeback. For a fishery that was closed from 2008-2009, and had tepid seasons in 2010-2011, this is a relief for fishermen and boon to salmon lovers. While Chinooks can get very large, averaging 8-20 pounds, buying fish whole and using the entire animal is much more cost effective and environmentally friendly that just making a few prime fillets. As well, you’ll throw creative, multi-course dinner parties, or have meals for a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/wineworks400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/wineworks400.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works \" title=\"John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works \" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43927\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An event at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dpwineworks.com/\">Dogpatch Wine Works\u003c/a> with John Fink of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeastsf.com/\">Whole Beast\u003c/a>, provided a great primer for how to do this. According to John, “Cooking an entire fish means the flavor from the bones and skin are all there.” That night he prepared a beautiful 14-pound California Chinook procured from \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nHe wrapped the king in branches from a bay laurel tree that helped to protect it while roasting. As he cooked, he gave tips on fire building, and ways to prepare all parts of the salmon.\n\u003cli>Make a fire with mild wood, like oak, almond or alder. Start the fire early so you have a good bed of coals to work with.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let your fish come up to temperature before preparing, maybe pull it out of the fridge for 15-20 minutes in warm weather, in foggy and cool, leave it out for an hour. This will help it cook more evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take the fish outside to scale it, as it can get messy. He then salts the skin twice. The first time he salts aggressively and lets it sit for 15-20 minutes, then rubs it clean. This is to pull out the moisture so it will get crispy; then he re-seasons with salt, fennel powder (seed toasted and ground), black pepper, and porcini powder and let it sit for three hours. After this is grilled, it’s the best “chip” you will ever have.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/john-fink400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/john-fink400.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill.\" title=\"John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill.\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43923\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>The Eggs: Most commercial fishermen gut the fish on the boat for freshness, so to procure these, you’ll have to catch your own fish, buddy up to sport fisherperson, or request these from your local fishmonger. Salmon eggs are fabulous brined or smoked and served in a traditional “caviar” style with crème fraiche and toast or sprinkled on raw oysters. Either way, they make a great appetizer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/caviar560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/caviar560.jpg\" alt=\"caviar\" title=\"caviar\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43982\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salmon Caviar with crème fraiche, dill, red onion and served on rye toast. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Salmon heads and bones are often oily and take on a very strong flavor, so they aren’t used for soup stocks as commonly as milder whitefish. However, John once worked in a kitchen with a butcher from the Philippines who made a mean salmon head soup. He’d use tomatoes, ginger, tamarind, kaffir lime leaves, potatoes, salmon heads, and water. He’d also add the salmon belly, which many consider the best part of salmon. (Note: Always remove the red gills before using the heads, as the flavor is unpleasant.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salmon collars, the parts right under the head, are on sale at farmer’s markets for about $5.99 a pound. These underrated parts of the salmon have quite a bit of meat on them and John recommends smoking them.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Belly meat is often called the “cook’s treat” as it’s the fattiest part of the fish, and conventional or factory processors often remove this delicious section from the fillet. When grilling a whole fish and it becomes the richest and most tender piece. Enjoy it like a fillet, or chop it up for rich soups.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560.jpg\" alt=\"The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare.\" title=\"The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare.\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43925\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare. Guests nibble on the skin as it is left to sit for 15-20 minutes, until it’s brought up to mid-rare. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Once you’re ready to grill your whole fish, you will have to trust your instincts a bit. John turns the fish about every 5 minutes for a total of about 4 times. Don’t let it grill for 20 minutes on one side, and then the other, as it will cook too fast and fall apart. Cook it until rare, then remove it from the heat and let it sit for 15-20 minutes, until it’s medium rare; the flesh should be buttery.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.qualiawines.com\">Qualia\u003c/a> wines was pouring at the event, and their Sauvignon Blanc was perfect with the caviar and salmon skin. John plated the California Chinook over wild mushrooms and leeks. He then drizzled it with a red wine reduction made with porcini and a bit of sugar. With all this rich, oily goodness, Qualia’s Syrah Grenache Blend proved perfect. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/qualia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/qualia.jpg\" alt=\"Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat.\" title=\"Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat.\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43924\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related KQED Posts:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/2012/05/11/the-good-news-and-not-so-good-about-california-salmon/\">The Good and Not-So-Good News About California Salmon\u003c/a> (KQED QUEST -- by Dan Brekke)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Now there’s a new trend burgeoning, which I am calling “gill to adipose fin,” or using the whole fish. This summer, California is enjoying a strong Chinook salmon comeback. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1338398653,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1034},"headData":{"title":"The Whole Fish: Snout to Tail Movement Meet Gills to Adipose Fin | KQED","description":"Now there’s a new trend burgeoning, which I am calling “gill to adipose fin,” or using the whole fish. This summer, California is enjoying a strong Chinook salmon comeback. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"43905 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43905","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/","disqusTitle":"The Whole Fish: Snout to Tail Movement Meet Gills to Adipose Fin","path":"/bayareabites/43905/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Bay area chefs have been serving up funky parts of animals, from pig heart sandwiches at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\">Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa to pig trotter croquettes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> in San Francisco, as a way to show respect to the animals we eat. This “Snout to Tail” movement is leading people to embrace the lesser-used parts of cows and pigs and it encourages people to get more adventurous with their eating. For home cooks, it can also be a big money saver to learn how to make stock out of bones or braise tougher cuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560a.jpg\" alt=\"A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Sol Gate Studios \" title=\"A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Sol Gate Studios \" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43926\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A fourteen pound California Chinook/King salmon from i love blue sea wrapped in branches from a bay laurel tree. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now there’s a new trend burgeoning, which I am calling “gill to adipose fin,” or using the whole fish. This summer, California is enjoying a strong Chinook salmon comeback. For a fishery that was closed from 2008-2009, and had tepid seasons in 2010-2011, this is a relief for fishermen and boon to salmon lovers. While Chinooks can get very large, averaging 8-20 pounds, buying fish whole and using the entire animal is much more cost effective and environmentally friendly that just making a few prime fillets. As well, you’ll throw creative, multi-course dinner parties, or have meals for a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/wineworks400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/wineworks400.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works \" title=\"John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works \" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43927\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John Fink of The Whole Beast prepares his grill at Dogpatch Wine Works. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An event at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dpwineworks.com/\">Dogpatch Wine Works\u003c/a> with John Fink of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeastsf.com/\">Whole Beast\u003c/a>, provided a great primer for how to do this. According to John, “Cooking an entire fish means the flavor from the bones and skin are all there.” That night he prepared a beautiful 14-pound California Chinook procured from \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nHe wrapped the king in branches from a bay laurel tree that helped to protect it while roasting. As he cooked, he gave tips on fire building, and ways to prepare all parts of the salmon.\n\u003cli>Make a fire with mild wood, like oak, almond or alder. Start the fire early so you have a good bed of coals to work with.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let your fish come up to temperature before preparing, maybe pull it out of the fridge for 15-20 minutes in warm weather, in foggy and cool, leave it out for an hour. This will help it cook more evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take the fish outside to scale it, as it can get messy. He then salts the skin twice. The first time he salts aggressively and lets it sit for 15-20 minutes, then rubs it clean. This is to pull out the moisture so it will get crispy; then he re-seasons with salt, fennel powder (seed toasted and ground), black pepper, and porcini powder and let it sit for three hours. After this is grilled, it’s the best “chip” you will ever have.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/john-fink400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/john-fink400.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill.\" title=\"John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill.\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43923\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John Fink used to be a commercial fisherman in Alaska, and here he tells fishing stories while working the grill. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>The Eggs: Most commercial fishermen gut the fish on the boat for freshness, so to procure these, you’ll have to catch your own fish, buddy up to sport fisherperson, or request these from your local fishmonger. Salmon eggs are fabulous brined or smoked and served in a traditional “caviar” style with crème fraiche and toast or sprinkled on raw oysters. Either way, they make a great appetizer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/caviar560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/caviar560.jpg\" alt=\"caviar\" title=\"caviar\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43982\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salmon Caviar with crème fraiche, dill, red onion and served on rye toast. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Salmon heads and bones are often oily and take on a very strong flavor, so they aren’t used for soup stocks as commonly as milder whitefish. However, John once worked in a kitchen with a butcher from the Philippines who made a mean salmon head soup. He’d use tomatoes, ginger, tamarind, kaffir lime leaves, potatoes, salmon heads, and water. He’d also add the salmon belly, which many consider the best part of salmon. (Note: Always remove the red gills before using the heads, as the flavor is unpleasant.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salmon collars, the parts right under the head, are on sale at farmer’s markets for about $5.99 a pound. These underrated parts of the salmon have quite a bit of meat on them and John recommends smoking them.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Belly meat is often called the “cook’s treat” as it’s the fattiest part of the fish, and conventional or factory processors often remove this delicious section from the fillet. When grilling a whole fish and it becomes the richest and most tender piece. Enjoy it like a fillet, or chop it up for rich soups.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/whole-fish560.jpg\" alt=\"The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare.\" title=\"The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare.\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43925\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The king salmon is removed from the grill while rare. Guests nibble on the skin as it is left to sit for 15-20 minutes, until it’s brought up to mid-rare. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Once you’re ready to grill your whole fish, you will have to trust your instincts a bit. John turns the fish about every 5 minutes for a total of about 4 times. Don’t let it grill for 20 minutes on one side, and then the other, as it will cook too fast and fall apart. Cook it until rare, then remove it from the heat and let it sit for 15-20 minutes, until it’s medium rare; the flesh should be buttery.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.qualiawines.com\">Qualia\u003c/a> wines was pouring at the event, and their Sauvignon Blanc was perfect with the caviar and salmon skin. John plated the California Chinook over wild mushrooms and leeks. He then drizzled it with a red wine reduction made with porcini and a bit of sugar. With all this rich, oily goodness, Qualia’s Syrah Grenache Blend proved perfect. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/qualia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/qualia.jpg\" alt=\"Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat.\" title=\"Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat.\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43924\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Qualia Wines Sauvignon Blanc is served with salmon skin and eggs, but their reds stand up to the salmon fillets and belly meat. Photo: Martin Backhauss\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related KQED Posts:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/2012/05/11/the-good-news-and-not-so-good-about-california-salmon/\">The Good and Not-So-Good News About California Salmon\u003c/a> (KQED QUEST -- by Dan Brekke)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43905/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin","authors":["5371"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_10488","bayareabites_10487","bayareabites_80","bayareabites_10486","bayareabites_9881"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43926","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. 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As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/FreshAir_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/HereNow_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. 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No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/insideEurope.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. 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We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/mindshift2021-tile-3000x3000-1-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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