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Originally from North Carolina, she moved to Berkeley in 2006 to pursue the California dream, which, it turns out, is all it’s cracked up to be. She’s a farmers' market junkie, a lover of all things tomato, and Champagne-obsessed. She loves to cook with her kids, eight and three, and she makes frequent pilgrimages to International Boulevard in search of her next favorite Mexican dish. She spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about food and wine pairing, often starting with the wine and working backwards when planning menus. She is a Level I Sommelier and a Licensed Q-Grader. Her work has appeared in KQED's Bay Area Bites, Forbes.com, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Table, Fodor’s Travel Guides, and lots of other publications. You can follow Kim on Twitter and Instagram @throughtraveler.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Westerman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kimwesterman"},"vicchin":{"type":"authors","id":"11350","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11350","found":true},"name":"Vic Chin","firstName":"Vic","lastName":"Chin","slug":"vicchin","email":"vchin@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Vic Chin is the Coordinating Producer for KQED's award-winning television show Check, Please! Bay Area, as well as a Video Producer for KQED's Bay Area Bites.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8e8092694194f9d7be8a943f9ccd20b6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"food","roles":["administrator"]}],"headData":{"title":"Vic Chin | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8e8092694194f9d7be8a943f9ccd20b6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8e8092694194f9d7be8a943f9ccd20b6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/vicchin"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_120897":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_120897","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"120897","score":null,"sort":[1506447545000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"master-chef-george-chen-opens-eight-tables-china-lives-crown-jewel","title":"Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel","publishDate":1506447545,"format":"video","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120948,120949,120951,120952,120947,120954\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120971,120972,120973,120974,120975,120976,120979,120978,120977\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1523299339,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":32,"wordCount":2029},"headData":{"title":"Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel | KQED","description":"An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel","datePublished":"2017-09-26T17:39:05.000Z","dateModified":"2018-04-09T18:42:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"120897 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120897","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/09/26/master-chef-george-chen-opens-eight-tables-china-lives-crown-jewel/","disqusTitle":"Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/VQJ4bianswI","source":"Asian Food and Drink","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/asian-food-and-drink/","path":"/bayareabites/120897/master-chef-george-chen-opens-eight-tables-china-lives-crown-jewel","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"120948,120949,120951,120952,120947,120954","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"120971,120972,120973,120974,120975,120976,120979,120978,120977","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/120897/master-chef-george-chen-opens-eight-tables-china-lives-crown-jewel","authors":["5575","5014","11350"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_316","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_15787","bayareabites_1269","bayareabites_475","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_15975","bayareabites_15976"],"featImg":"bayareabites_120930","label":"source_bayareabites_120897"},"bayareabites_119591":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_119591","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"119591","score":null,"sort":[1501792223000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chop-suey-a-classic-chinese-american-dish-takes-on-a-mexican-flair","title":"Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair","publishDate":1501792223,"format":"video","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Joaquin \"Jocko\" Fajardo, 39, grew up in Tempe, Ariz., in a large family. Mexican food was an integral part of his upbringing. And yet, the dish that reminds him of home and family is a distinctly Chinese dish, or more accurately, Chinese-American dish: chop suey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop suey actually came to his family through a Mexican restaurant owned by his great-grandmother and great-aunt. Back in the 1960s, the two women owned a restaurant in Los Angeles. Next door to their Mexican restaurant was a Chinese restaurant. \"It lasted for a brief time, and ultimately my [great-aunt] purchased the restaurant,\" says Fajardo. \"They merged the two restaurants, keeping the Asian staff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the women taught their new staff to make the Mexican dishes on their menu, they also learned some Asian dishes. Chop suey was one of them. But his great-aunt added distinctly Mexican bits to the recipe: cumin, jalapeno and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#recipe\">Jump to the recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story behind the creation of this Chinese-Mexican fusion dish may seem surprising, but it illustrates a culinary exchange not uncommon in places where different cultures and cuisines coexist. And it is especially true of Chinese food in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the origin of chop suey itself. The dish originated in some of the first Chinese restaurants in America, many of them called chop suey houses. The story behind the dish's origin is filled with folklore, with many regions and people claiming to be its creator. But according to \u003ca href=\"//escholarship.org/uc/item/2bc4k55r.pdf\">a 2009 study\u003c/a> published in the \u003cem>Journal of Transnational American Studies\u003c/em>, there was no single creator. It probably evolved simultaneously in many restaurants. It was made by taking a humble dish made with fried animal intestines and vegetables and adapting it to the tastes of American customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When Chinese restaurants in America began to serve the dish, they had the flexibility to use whatever ingredients were available and whatever sauces they found tasteful and convenient,\" writes Haiming Liu, a professor at California State Polytechnic University, in his 2009 paper. \"There are many different versions of chop suey when it was first spread across America. The only common practice was to use a wok to stir-fry a bundle of ingredients with an innovative sauce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result was nothing like the original dish eaten in China, which according to Liu was mostly a home-cooked dish that also \"varied from region to region.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just chop suey that evolved to American palates. The vast majority of Chinese-American food did. In fact, Chinese cuisine in many countries has adapted to local tastes and ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese-Indian food, for example, folds in Indian spices, paneer (Indian cheese) and plenty of Indian vegetables like potato, okra and cauliflower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PeruvianChinese food blends in both cuisines and goes by the name of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2014-09-05/immigration-fuels-hot-asian-fusion-food-scene-lima\">\u003cem>chifa\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>It includes fried rice, called \u003cem>arroz chaufa,\u003c/em> that includes corn, a staple in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/16/399637724/the-chinese-mexican-cuisine-born-of-u-s-prejudice\">The Salt has reported\u003c/a>, Chinese-Mexican food includes many staples of the local cuisine, like \"light-yellow deep-fried chilis.\" There are also rumors of chefs at Chinese restaurants marinating their pork in tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it seems only natural that a cuisine that has adapted to local tastes around the globe would continue to evolve in restaurant kitchens. But what is unique perhaps about Fajardo's chop suey — he calls it chop suey with beans — is that it was revised and reinvented not in a Chinese restaurant, but in a Mexican restaurant. And this Mexican adaptation went on to become the restaurant's \"family meal\" — the employees ate this dish at work, Fajardo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great-aunt even went on to teach the recipe to every woman in their extended family. \"She believed that everybody should be able to feed their family at minimal cost,\" says Fajardo. The dish, with its simple and hearty ingredients — carrots, celery, beans, chicken (or any other meat or fish) — is healthy and inexpensive. \"And it's something we came to know as auntie's stew.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey With Beans And Rice Recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, peeled, halved and sliced thinly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 chicken breasts, halved and cut into 1/4 inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can water chestnuts (drain out the water)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup bean sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can black beans, drained and rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup Basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon diced jalapeño with some seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook rice in 2 cups of chicken stock. Simmer until two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated, then cover until the steam dissipates. Season lightly with salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saut carrots, celery and onion until onion is golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the slices of chicken and sauté until browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the sprouts, water chestnuts and black beans. Keep at a slow simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the remaining chicken stock with the cornstarch and jalapeño. Stir into the simmering chicken and vegetables in the pan. Allow to thicken slightly while stirring for 3-5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Share Your Hot Pot Story\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tell us a memory you have about a dish you love. Post a video or photo on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?src=typd&q=%23nprhotpot\">\u003cem>#NPRHotPot\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and we'll gather some of our favorites and post them on NPR.org. Get the details \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/06/06/531783214/-nprhotpot-share-your-food-memories-with-us\">\u003cem>here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Jocko Fajardo grew up in Arizona eating Mexican food. But his go-to comfort dish is a Chinese-American classic with a little Mexican thrown in. He tells us how the dish came to his family.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1556837502,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":917},"headData":{"title":"Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair | KQED","description":"Jocko Fajardo grew up in Arizona eating Mexican food. But his go-to comfort dish is a Chinese-American classic with a little Mexican thrown in. He tells us how the dish came to his family.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair","datePublished":"2017-08-03T20:30:23.000Z","dateModified":"2019-05-02T22:51:42.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"119591 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=119591","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/08/03/chop-suey-a-classic-chinese-american-dish-takes-on-a-mexican-flair/","disqusTitle":"Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/cIrXUnvPlE0","nprByline":"Rhitu Chatterjee, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"NPR","nprStoryId":"541199604","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=541199604&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/03/541199604/chop-suey-a-classic-american-chinese-dish-takes-on-a-mexican-flair?ft=nprml&f=541199604","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 03 Aug 2017 11:20:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 03 Aug 2017 10:23:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 03 Aug 2017 11:20:04 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/119591/chop-suey-a-classic-chinese-american-dish-takes-on-a-mexican-flair","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Joaquin \"Jocko\" Fajardo, 39, grew up in Tempe, Ariz., in a large family. Mexican food was an integral part of his upbringing. And yet, the dish that reminds him of home and family is a distinctly Chinese dish, or more accurately, Chinese-American dish: chop suey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop suey actually came to his family through a Mexican restaurant owned by his great-grandmother and great-aunt. Back in the 1960s, the two women owned a restaurant in Los Angeles. Next door to their Mexican restaurant was a Chinese restaurant. \"It lasted for a brief time, and ultimately my [great-aunt] purchased the restaurant,\" says Fajardo. \"They merged the two restaurants, keeping the Asian staff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the women taught their new staff to make the Mexican dishes on their menu, they also learned some Asian dishes. Chop suey was one of them. But his great-aunt added distinctly Mexican bits to the recipe: cumin, jalapeno and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#recipe\">Jump to the recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story behind the creation of this Chinese-Mexican fusion dish may seem surprising, but it illustrates a culinary exchange not uncommon in places where different cultures and cuisines coexist. And it is especially true of Chinese food in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the origin of chop suey itself. The dish originated in some of the first Chinese restaurants in America, many of them called chop suey houses. The story behind the dish's origin is filled with folklore, with many regions and people claiming to be its creator. But according to \u003ca href=\"//escholarship.org/uc/item/2bc4k55r.pdf\">a 2009 study\u003c/a> published in the \u003cem>Journal of Transnational American Studies\u003c/em>, there was no single creator. It probably evolved simultaneously in many restaurants. It was made by taking a humble dish made with fried animal intestines and vegetables and adapting it to the tastes of American customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When Chinese restaurants in America began to serve the dish, they had the flexibility to use whatever ingredients were available and whatever sauces they found tasteful and convenient,\" writes Haiming Liu, a professor at California State Polytechnic University, in his 2009 paper. \"There are many different versions of chop suey when it was first spread across America. The only common practice was to use a wok to stir-fry a bundle of ingredients with an innovative sauce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result was nothing like the original dish eaten in China, which according to Liu was mostly a home-cooked dish that also \"varied from region to region.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just chop suey that evolved to American palates. The vast majority of Chinese-American food did. In fact, Chinese cuisine in many countries has adapted to local tastes and ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese-Indian food, for example, folds in Indian spices, paneer (Indian cheese) and plenty of Indian vegetables like potato, okra and cauliflower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PeruvianChinese food blends in both cuisines and goes by the name of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2014-09-05/immigration-fuels-hot-asian-fusion-food-scene-lima\">\u003cem>chifa\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>It includes fried rice, called \u003cem>arroz chaufa,\u003c/em> that includes corn, a staple in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/16/399637724/the-chinese-mexican-cuisine-born-of-u-s-prejudice\">The Salt has reported\u003c/a>, Chinese-Mexican food includes many staples of the local cuisine, like \"light-yellow deep-fried chilis.\" There are also rumors of chefs at Chinese restaurants marinating their pork in tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it seems only natural that a cuisine that has adapted to local tastes around the globe would continue to evolve in restaurant kitchens. But what is unique perhaps about Fajardo's chop suey — he calls it chop suey with beans — is that it was revised and reinvented not in a Chinese restaurant, but in a Mexican restaurant. And this Mexican adaptation went on to become the restaurant's \"family meal\" — the employees ate this dish at work, Fajardo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great-aunt even went on to teach the recipe to every woman in their extended family. \"She believed that everybody should be able to feed their family at minimal cost,\" says Fajardo. The dish, with its simple and hearty ingredients — carrots, celery, beans, chicken (or any other meat or fish) — is healthy and inexpensive. \"And it's something we came to know as auntie's stew.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey With Beans And Rice Recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, peeled, halved and sliced thinly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 chicken breasts, halved and cut into 1/4 inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can water chestnuts (drain out the water)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup bean sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can black beans, drained and rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup Basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon diced jalapeño with some seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook rice in 2 cups of chicken stock. Simmer until two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated, then cover until the steam dissipates. Season lightly with salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saut carrots, celery and onion until onion is golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the slices of chicken and sauté until browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the sprouts, water chestnuts and black beans. Keep at a slow simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the remaining chicken stock with the cornstarch and jalapeño. Stir into the simmering chicken and vegetables in the pan. Allow to thicken slightly while stirring for 3-5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Share Your Hot Pot Story\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tell us a memory you have about a dish you love. Post a video or photo on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?src=typd&q=%23nprhotpot\">\u003cem>#NPRHotPot\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and we'll gather some of our favorites and post them on NPR.org. Get the details \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/06/06/531783214/-nprhotpot-share-your-food-memories-with-us\">\u003cem>here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/119591/chop-suey-a-classic-chinese-american-dish-takes-on-a-mexican-flair","authors":["byline_bayareabites_119591"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_16243","bayareabites_475","bayareabites_15933","bayareabites_180"],"featImg":"bayareabites_119592","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_119112":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_119112","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"119112","score":null,"sort":[1499978802000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chinese-laborers-built-sonomas-wineries-racist-neighbors-drove-them-out","title":"Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out","publishDate":1499978802,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/transporting-wine-95f9af075d22ecf0aef6d5e5429b26f9702c44ff-e1499978410695.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119114\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Sonoma Valley about an hour north of San Francisco, there are many reminders of the immigrants who built California's wine industry: tasting rooms that look like Italian villas or signs bearing French names. But you won't see any vestiges of the group that made up an estimated 80 percent of the workforce that first put Sonoma vineyards on the map: the Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not many Chinese people in this little town now,\" says Jack Ding, an immigrant from Jiangsu, China, who has been living in Sonoma since 2008. \"But some of my neighbors and friends said, 'Hey Jack, you're Chinese. Let me tell you stories of Chinese who lived here 50, 100 or 150 years ago.' These were verbal stories from the family, generation by generation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those friends was Gordon Phillips, a retired attorney and local historian who spent nine years researching the history of Chinese in Sonoma, poring over books, census data and old newspapers searching for articles, editorials and political advertisements mentioning Chinese workers. \"All these vintners were making money off these initial Chinese workers and nobody knows about it,\" Phillips says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how Chinese workers arrived in California's wine country, one must look to the east — to the Sierra Nevada. As the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s petered out and the construction of the transcontinental railroad neared completion, there were Chinese immigrants looking for work. That's where two key immigrants came into play. In 1857, a wealthy Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy purchased a ranch in Sonoma Valley and named it Buena Vista, with the vision of introducing winemaking techniques from his homeland. Historian Charles L. Sullivan, author of numerous books about California's wine industry, calls Haraszthy \"the great supporter of Chinese labor in the vineyards.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ho-po_sq-127369c2e65bc54adcb3d96966979fa6b30cbb26-e1499978486820.jpg\" alt=\"Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119113\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haraszthy turned to Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, who sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista, Sonoma's oldest commercial winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those caves are still in use today at Buena Vista winery, where visitors can tour the 15-by-30-foot spaces carved out of rock. \"Workers literally dug the caves by hand,\" says Tom Blackwood, general manager of Buena Vista Winery. \"They still have the original markings. Those were the same skills they were using through the railroad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it — Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cecilia Tsu, a history professor at the University of California, Davis who studies Asian-Americans in the West, points out that winemaking is much more labor-intensive than wheat or other crops grown earlier in the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 641px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg\" alt=\"Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. "We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French," says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\" width=\"641\" height=\"641\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg 641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 641px) 100vw, 641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011. \u003ccite>( Eadweard Muybridge/Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Chinese immigrants were indispensable on multiple levels,\" says Tsu. \"They built roads; cleared land for farming; planted, pruned and harvested grapes. They did backbreaking, physical labor, as well as horticultural work that required significant knowledge and skill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without Chinese workers, perhaps California wouldn't be famous for its most popular varietals. In his 2004 book \u003cem>The Beasts of the Field,\u003c/em> Richard Steven Street notes that between 1856 and 1869, Chinese planted the majority of Sonoma County's 3.2 million grapevines. \"The Chinese also played a key role in improving wine quality by ripping out old mission grape vineyards and replanting them with Riesling, Muscatel, Traminer, Black Hamburg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and other fine French and European varieties,\" writes Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as the vineyards grew, so did backlash against the Chinese on the West Coast. Anti-Chinese leagues were formed in many counties, with whites accusing Chinese of undercutting wages. Asians were paid about $30 per month, while white workers were paid up to $50 monthly. Others complained that the Chinese were unable to assimilate into local culture. Racism was common in nearby wine-producing areas, such as Napa and the Russian River Valley, although the Sonoma Valley might have been more hospitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was virtually no organized anti-Chinese agitation in the Sonoma Valley during the 1870s, much unlike what was common throughout much of the Bay Area, particularly in San Jose, Santa Rosa and Petaluma, even Napa,\" writes Sullivan in a \u003ca href=\"http://waywardtendrils.com/pdfs/vol.24_2014.pdf\">2014 article in the Wayward Tendrils Quarterly\u003c/a>. Haraszthy refused to stop employing Chinese at Buena Vista, despite the growing political opposition. He began carrying a gun to protect himself, and in 1868, he fled to Nicaragua to produce rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in wine country, nativist sentiments continued to take root. By 1877, lawmakers in Washington, D.C., debated a bill to stop Chinese immigration. Sonoma Valley grape grower John Hill testified in Congress to defend Chinese labor. \"He explained that Sonoma Valley grape growers depended on the 500 Chinese laborers employed in his 'neighborhood,' \" Phillips wrote in his 2015 thesis for his master's degree from Sonoma State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But spurred on by Denis Kearney's Workingmen's Party, a labor-oriented political group that supported nativist policies, Congress eventually passed the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882, barring nearly all immigration from China. And whites drove out Chinese from many rural areas throughout the West. \"There was a movement to forcibly remove all the Chinese from Sonoma by starving them out — don't hire, don't patronize any shops that hire Chinese. During that period, a lot of Chinese left Sonoma. They were chewing on weeds down by the riverbanks, things got so bad,\" explains Phillips. According to U.S. Census data, the Chinese population in Sonoma County dropped \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">from 1,145 in 1890\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">fewer than 200 in 1930\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That ugly past isn't always highlighted in the popular lore of the West. Nor are the contributions of the Chinese. \"We tend to assume that native-born American growers and maybe some European immigrants were pioneers of viticulture in California,\" Tsu says. \"[But] in reality, they were utterly dependent on Chinese immigrant labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That erasure bothers Ding. \"It feels bad,\" he says. \"I went to a bookstore to look at Sonoma history books. I bought one, and I didn't see any pictures of the Chinese laborers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, there's been a movement to call attention to the Chinese legacy in wine country. Last fall, Phillips and Ding — along with the Sonoma-Penglai Sister City Committee — went before the Sonoma City Council to propose the building of a monument to the early Chinese. The council unanimously voted to approve the construction of a \u003cem>ting\u003c/em> (a tile-roofed covered pavilion) in a city park. \"It's a physical object that people can see is Chinese,\" explains Phillips. \"It'll attract their attention to something Chinese. When they read the plaque, they'll realize the vineyards are here based on a lot of Chinese labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the city isn't funding the $75,000 cost of construction. The northeastern Chinese city of Penglai, also known for wine production, is donating $25,000. With other \u003ca href=\"https://sonomasistercitiesassociation.org/donors-to-the-wine-country-chinese-legacy-project-we-thank-you/\">fundraising\u003c/a>, the volunteers have raised $50,000. Construction is expected to begin as soon as the remainder of the money is raised.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Grace Hwang Lynch is a multimedia journalist based in the San Francisco Bay Area. She is currently working on a memoir about food, identity and caretaking. Follow her blog, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://hapamama.com/\">HapaMama.com\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or on Twitter @GraceHwangLynch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Enjoying a chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon? In the 1800s, Chinese immigrants helped introduce those iconic varietals to California's wine country. But as vineyards grew, so did anti-Chinese fervor.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1499978802,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1380},"headData":{"title":"Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out | KQED","description":"Enjoying a chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon? In the 1800s, Chinese immigrants helped introduce those iconic varietals to California's wine country. But as vineyards grew, so did anti-Chinese fervor.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out","datePublished":"2017-07-13T20:46:42.000Z","dateModified":"2017-07-13T20:46:42.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"119112 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=119112","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/07/13/chinese-laborers-built-sonomas-wineries-racist-neighbors-drove-them-out/","disqusTitle":"Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out","source":"Food History","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/food-history-and-celebrities/","nprByline":"Grace Hwang Lynch, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Courtesy of Buena Vista winery","nprStoryId":"536822541","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=536822541&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/07/13/536822541/the-forgotten-chinese-who-built-sonoma-s-wineries?ft=nprml&f=536822541","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 13 Jul 2017 16:04:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 13 Jul 2017 13:51:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 13 Jul 2017 16:04:48 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/119112/chinese-laborers-built-sonomas-wineries-racist-neighbors-drove-them-out","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/transporting-wine-95f9af075d22ecf0aef6d5e5429b26f9702c44ff-e1499978410695.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119114\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Sonoma Valley about an hour north of San Francisco, there are many reminders of the immigrants who built California's wine industry: tasting rooms that look like Italian villas or signs bearing French names. But you won't see any vestiges of the group that made up an estimated 80 percent of the workforce that first put Sonoma vineyards on the map: the Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not many Chinese people in this little town now,\" says Jack Ding, an immigrant from Jiangsu, China, who has been living in Sonoma since 2008. \"But some of my neighbors and friends said, 'Hey Jack, you're Chinese. Let me tell you stories of Chinese who lived here 50, 100 or 150 years ago.' These were verbal stories from the family, generation by generation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those friends was Gordon Phillips, a retired attorney and local historian who spent nine years researching the history of Chinese in Sonoma, poring over books, census data and old newspapers searching for articles, editorials and political advertisements mentioning Chinese workers. \"All these vintners were making money off these initial Chinese workers and nobody knows about it,\" Phillips says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how Chinese workers arrived in California's wine country, one must look to the east — to the Sierra Nevada. As the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s petered out and the construction of the transcontinental railroad neared completion, there were Chinese immigrants looking for work. That's where two key immigrants came into play. In 1857, a wealthy Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy purchased a ranch in Sonoma Valley and named it Buena Vista, with the vision of introducing winemaking techniques from his homeland. Historian Charles L. Sullivan, author of numerous books about California's wine industry, calls Haraszthy \"the great supporter of Chinese labor in the vineyards.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ho-po_sq-127369c2e65bc54adcb3d96966979fa6b30cbb26-e1499978486820.jpg\" alt=\"Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119113\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haraszthy turned to Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, who sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista, Sonoma's oldest commercial winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those caves are still in use today at Buena Vista winery, where visitors can tour the 15-by-30-foot spaces carved out of rock. \"Workers literally dug the caves by hand,\" says Tom Blackwood, general manager of Buena Vista Winery. \"They still have the original markings. Those were the same skills they were using through the railroad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it — Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cecilia Tsu, a history professor at the University of California, Davis who studies Asian-Americans in the West, points out that winemaking is much more labor-intensive than wheat or other crops grown earlier in the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 641px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg\" alt=\"Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. "We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French," says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\" width=\"641\" height=\"641\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg 641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 641px) 100vw, 641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011. \u003ccite>( Eadweard Muybridge/Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Chinese immigrants were indispensable on multiple levels,\" says Tsu. \"They built roads; cleared land for farming; planted, pruned and harvested grapes. They did backbreaking, physical labor, as well as horticultural work that required significant knowledge and skill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without Chinese workers, perhaps California wouldn't be famous for its most popular varietals. In his 2004 book \u003cem>The Beasts of the Field,\u003c/em> Richard Steven Street notes that between 1856 and 1869, Chinese planted the majority of Sonoma County's 3.2 million grapevines. \"The Chinese also played a key role in improving wine quality by ripping out old mission grape vineyards and replanting them with Riesling, Muscatel, Traminer, Black Hamburg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and other fine French and European varieties,\" writes Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as the vineyards grew, so did backlash against the Chinese on the West Coast. Anti-Chinese leagues were formed in many counties, with whites accusing Chinese of undercutting wages. Asians were paid about $30 per month, while white workers were paid up to $50 monthly. Others complained that the Chinese were unable to assimilate into local culture. Racism was common in nearby wine-producing areas, such as Napa and the Russian River Valley, although the Sonoma Valley might have been more hospitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was virtually no organized anti-Chinese agitation in the Sonoma Valley during the 1870s, much unlike what was common throughout much of the Bay Area, particularly in San Jose, Santa Rosa and Petaluma, even Napa,\" writes Sullivan in a \u003ca href=\"http://waywardtendrils.com/pdfs/vol.24_2014.pdf\">2014 article in the Wayward Tendrils Quarterly\u003c/a>. Haraszthy refused to stop employing Chinese at Buena Vista, despite the growing political opposition. He began carrying a gun to protect himself, and in 1868, he fled to Nicaragua to produce rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in wine country, nativist sentiments continued to take root. By 1877, lawmakers in Washington, D.C., debated a bill to stop Chinese immigration. Sonoma Valley grape grower John Hill testified in Congress to defend Chinese labor. \"He explained that Sonoma Valley grape growers depended on the 500 Chinese laborers employed in his 'neighborhood,' \" Phillips wrote in his 2015 thesis for his master's degree from Sonoma State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But spurred on by Denis Kearney's Workingmen's Party, a labor-oriented political group that supported nativist policies, Congress eventually passed the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882, barring nearly all immigration from China. And whites drove out Chinese from many rural areas throughout the West. \"There was a movement to forcibly remove all the Chinese from Sonoma by starving them out — don't hire, don't patronize any shops that hire Chinese. During that period, a lot of Chinese left Sonoma. They were chewing on weeds down by the riverbanks, things got so bad,\" explains Phillips. According to U.S. Census data, the Chinese population in Sonoma County dropped \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">from 1,145 in 1890\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">fewer than 200 in 1930\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That ugly past isn't always highlighted in the popular lore of the West. Nor are the contributions of the Chinese. \"We tend to assume that native-born American growers and maybe some European immigrants were pioneers of viticulture in California,\" Tsu says. \"[But] in reality, they were utterly dependent on Chinese immigrant labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That erasure bothers Ding. \"It feels bad,\" he says. \"I went to a bookstore to look at Sonoma history books. I bought one, and I didn't see any pictures of the Chinese laborers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, there's been a movement to call attention to the Chinese legacy in wine country. Last fall, Phillips and Ding — along with the Sonoma-Penglai Sister City Committee — went before the Sonoma City Council to propose the building of a monument to the early Chinese. The council unanimously voted to approve the construction of a \u003cem>ting\u003c/em> (a tile-roofed covered pavilion) in a city park. \"It's a physical object that people can see is Chinese,\" explains Phillips. \"It'll attract their attention to something Chinese. When they read the plaque, they'll realize the vineyards are here based on a lot of Chinese labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the city isn't funding the $75,000 cost of construction. The northeastern Chinese city of Penglai, also known for wine production, is donating $25,000. With other \u003ca href=\"https://sonomasistercitiesassociation.org/donors-to-the-wine-country-chinese-legacy-project-we-thank-you/\">fundraising\u003c/a>, the volunteers have raised $50,000. Construction is expected to begin as soon as the remainder of the money is raised.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Grace Hwang Lynch is a multimedia journalist based in the San Francisco Bay Area. She is currently working on a memoir about food, identity and caretaking. Follow her blog, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://hapamama.com/\">HapaMama.com\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or on Twitter @GraceHwangLynch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/119112/chinese-laborers-built-sonomas-wineries-racist-neighbors-drove-them-out","authors":["byline_bayareabites_119112"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_475"],"featImg":"bayareabites_119113","label":"source_bayareabites_119112"},"bayareabites_115560":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_115560","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"115560","score":null,"sort":[1490832659000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-weeknight-stir-fry-guide","title":"The Weeknight Stir-Fry Guide","publishDate":1490832659,"format":"video","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>A truly authentic stir-fry is an art, a centuries-old technique that originated in China in which a variety of ingredients—often some sort of protein and an array of vegetables—are quickly cooked in a searing wok. But you don’t have to be a master to create a good stir-fry. Because it comes together quickly, and because you can use nearly any combination of protein and veggies that your heart desires, it’s a perfect, healthy weeknight meal that can be designed to your taste. Bonus: you can clear out all those extra bits of veggies that you weren’t sure what to do with and you were hoping to use up before they became compost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, before anyone gets into a huff, I am not the expert on stir-frying (if you really want to get into some authentically delicious stir-frying you should check out \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Stir-Frying-Skys-Edge-Ultimate-Authentic/dp/1416580573\" target=\"_blank\">Grace Young’s Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Breath-Wok-Grace-Young/dp/0743238273/ref=pd_sbs_14_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NEG6V143QZCH1H3VCQR5\" target=\"_blank\">The Breath of a Wok\u003c/a>). However, I do love to make a great stir-fry, and my family is always happy when I do so. Here, I’ll give you lots of ideas to create your own masterpiece depending on what you have in the fridge and what you like, plus some of my favorite combinations. I’m not providing exact amounts here because, well, it depends on how many people you want to feed and how much you have in the fridge. Regardless, I’ll give you a more specific recipe down below so you have a good idea of how many ingredients to use with the sauce recipe I provide. The sauce is pretty versatile and straightforward, but you can change it up as you like…just be sure to use low-sodium soy sauce or your sauce will be too salty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let’s start with some ideas for ingredients:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Protein:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Steak, thinly sliced across the grain or cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pork tenderloin, cut into thin strips\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shrimp, peeled and deveined with tail intact\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Firm tofu, cut into 3/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116249\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix.jpg\" alt=\"Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Vegetables that I like to blanch* before adding:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Broccoli florets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cauliflower florets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Long beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>\u003cem>To blanch vegetables:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the veggies, then cook until crisp-tender. Drain in a colander in the sink, then plunge veggies in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain.jpg\" alt=\"Blanched broccoli\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blanching broccoli \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill.jpg\" alt=\"Plunge broccoli in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116230\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plunge broccoli in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Vegetables that I cook directly in the wok:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Yellow or red onion, halved and sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Red, orange, or yellow bell peppers, cored and cut into thin strips\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carrots, cut into matchsticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Zucchini or summer squash, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Baby bok choy, halved or quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresh English peas, shelled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mushrooms, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar snap peas, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Snow peas, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms.jpg\" alt=\"Mushrooms, sliced.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116270\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mushrooms, sliced. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Other additions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Minced garlic (add with vegetables)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whole dried Chinese red chili peppers (cook these in oil before cooking protein, remove then add back with protein at the end)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roasted peanuts or chopped, roasted cashews (add at the end of cooking)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>And some ideas for combinations of ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Chicken breast, zucchini, green onions, peanuts, red chili peppers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Steak, asparagus, sugar snap peas, minced garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pork tenderloin, green beans, mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shrimp, baby bok choy, snow peas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Tofu, bell peppers, broccoli, carrots, mushrooms, sugar snap peas\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here’s the basic method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, add a little oil, then add your protein. Cook until just cooked through, only stirring occasionally (the timing will depend on the protein). I like to let the first side cook without moving it until it browns, then start stirring. Transfer to a plate or bowl and set aside. Add a little more oil to the wok, then add vegetables in order of hardness (those that need to cook longer should be added first, then layered with other vegetables). Cook, stirring, until tender, then add the protein back to the wok along with the sauce. Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve your stir-fry as it is, or over a bowl of steaming white or brown rice or cooked noodles (I love the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/19/where-to-get-the-best-fresh-noodles-in-oakland/\" target=\"_blank\">Chinese-style egg noodles\u003c/a> that you can find at Ranch 99 or Berkeley Bowl). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116258\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Basic Stir-Fry Example\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peanut, canola, or vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Protein:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Veggies:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 small-medium carrots, cut into matchsticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sliced cremini mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup small broccoli florets, blanched*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 green onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Sauce:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce or tamari\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons mirin, sherry, or broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon cornstarch\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Steamed rice or cooked noodles, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116246\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1.jpg\" alt=\"Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients prepped\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116246\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients prepped \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce, then add the chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature. (You can marinate beef, pork, chicken, or tofu, but avoid marinating fish or seafood for very long.) Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116252\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116252\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix.jpg\" alt=\"Add the sauce to the prepped chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116251\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the sauce to the prepped chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116236\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain.jpg\" alt=\"Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116236\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil. When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir, and continue to cook until cooked through, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a plate or bowl and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116244\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok.jpg\" alt=\"When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce. Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated. Serve at once over rice or noodles.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116234\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116243\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116243\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116257\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116257\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116254\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116241\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1.jpg\" alt=\"Serve at once over rice or noodles.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116241\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serve at once over rice or noodles. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Whip out your wok and sear up a healthy, vegetable-heavy meal any night of the week with this easy guide to creating your favorite stir-fry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1567628721,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":8,"wordCount":1278},"headData":{"title":"The Weeknight Stir-Fry Guide | KQED","description":"Whip out your wok and sear up a healthy, vegetable-heavy meal any night of the week with this easy guide to creating your favorite stir-fry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Weeknight Stir-Fry Guide","datePublished":"2017-03-30T00:10:59.000Z","dateModified":"2019-09-04T20:25:21.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"115560 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115560","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/29/the-weeknight-stir-fry-guide/","disqusTitle":"The Weeknight Stir-Fry Guide","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/Y967kQNzkmQ","path":"/bayareabites/115560/the-weeknight-stir-fry-guide","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A truly authentic stir-fry is an art, a centuries-old technique that originated in China in which a variety of ingredients—often some sort of protein and an array of vegetables—are quickly cooked in a searing wok. But you don’t have to be a master to create a good stir-fry. Because it comes together quickly, and because you can use nearly any combination of protein and veggies that your heart desires, it’s a perfect, healthy weeknight meal that can be designed to your taste. Bonus: you can clear out all those extra bits of veggies that you weren’t sure what to do with and you were hoping to use up before they became compost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, before anyone gets into a huff, I am not the expert on stir-frying (if you really want to get into some authentically delicious stir-frying you should check out \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Stir-Frying-Skys-Edge-Ultimate-Authentic/dp/1416580573\" target=\"_blank\">Grace Young’s Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Breath-Wok-Grace-Young/dp/0743238273/ref=pd_sbs_14_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NEG6V143QZCH1H3VCQR5\" target=\"_blank\">The Breath of a Wok\u003c/a>). However, I do love to make a great stir-fry, and my family is always happy when I do so. Here, I’ll give you lots of ideas to create your own masterpiece depending on what you have in the fridge and what you like, plus some of my favorite combinations. I’m not providing exact amounts here because, well, it depends on how many people you want to feed and how much you have in the fridge. Regardless, I’ll give you a more specific recipe down below so you have a good idea of how many ingredients to use with the sauce recipe I provide. The sauce is pretty versatile and straightforward, but you can change it up as you like…just be sure to use low-sodium soy sauce or your sauce will be too salty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let’s start with some ideas for ingredients:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Protein:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Steak, thinly sliced across the grain or cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pork tenderloin, cut into thin strips\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shrimp, peeled and deveined with tail intact\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Firm tofu, cut into 3/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116249\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix.jpg\" alt=\"Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-raw-chix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, thinly sliced or cubed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Vegetables that I like to blanch* before adding:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Broccoli florets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cauliflower florets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Long beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>\u003cem>To blanch vegetables:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the veggies, then cook until crisp-tender. Drain in a colander in the sink, then plunge veggies in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain.jpg\" alt=\"Blanched broccoli\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-strain-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blanching broccoli \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill.jpg\" alt=\"Plunge broccoli in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116230\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-broccoli-chill-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plunge broccoli in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking quickly. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Vegetables that I cook directly in the wok:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Yellow or red onion, halved and sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Red, orange, or yellow bell peppers, cored and cut into thin strips\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carrots, cut into matchsticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Zucchini or summer squash, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Baby bok choy, halved or quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresh English peas, shelled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mushrooms, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar snap peas, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Snow peas, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms.jpg\" alt=\"Mushrooms, sliced.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116270\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mushrooms, sliced. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Other additions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Minced garlic (add with vegetables)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whole dried Chinese red chili peppers (cook these in oil before cooking protein, remove then add back with protein at the end)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roasted peanuts or chopped, roasted cashews (add at the end of cooking)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>And some ideas for combinations of ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Chicken breast, zucchini, green onions, peanuts, red chili peppers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Steak, asparagus, sugar snap peas, minced garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pork tenderloin, green beans, mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shrimp, baby bok choy, snow peas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Tofu, bell peppers, broccoli, carrots, mushrooms, sugar snap peas\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here’s the basic method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, add a little oil, then add your protein. Cook until just cooked through, only stirring occasionally (the timing will depend on the protein). I like to let the first side cook without moving it until it browns, then start stirring. Transfer to a plate or bowl and set aside. Add a little more oil to the wok, then add vegetables in order of hardness (those that need to cook longer should be added first, then layered with other vegetables). Cook, stirring, until tender, then add the protein back to the wok along with the sauce. Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve your stir-fry as it is, or over a bowl of steaming white or brown rice or cooked noodles (I love the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/19/where-to-get-the-best-fresh-noodles-in-oakland/\" target=\"_blank\">Chinese-style egg noodles\u003c/a> that you can find at Ranch 99 or Berkeley Bowl). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116258\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-whole-veg-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Basic Stir-Fry Example\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peanut, canola, or vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Protein:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cubed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Veggies:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 small-medium carrots, cut into matchsticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sliced cremini mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup small broccoli florets, blanched*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 green onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Sauce:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce or tamari\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons mirin, sherry, or broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon cornstarch\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Steamed rice or cooked noodles, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116246\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1.jpg\" alt=\"Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients prepped\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116246\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-prepped-ingredients1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basic Stir-Fry Ingredients prepped \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce, then add the chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature. (You can marinate beef, pork, chicken, or tofu, but avoid marinating fish or seafood for very long.) Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116252\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116252\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a medium bowl, whisk together the sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix.jpg\" alt=\"Add the sauce to the prepped chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116251\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-sauce-chix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the sauce to the prepped chicken. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116236\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain.jpg\" alt=\"Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116236\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-drain-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strain the sauce into a bowl. Set the sauce and chicken aside separately. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil. When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir, and continue to cook until cooked through, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a plate or bowl and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116244\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-oil-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heat a well-seasoned wok over medium-high heat, then add a few teaspoons of oil. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok.jpg\" alt=\"When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the oil is very hot, add the chicken. Cook on the first side without moving it, until it begins to brown, about 2 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce. Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated. Serve at once over rice or noodles.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116234\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-carrots-flip-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add a teaspoon or two of oil to the wok, then add the bell pepper and carrots. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until just starting to become tender. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116243\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116243\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-mushrooms-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes, until just tender. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116257\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116257\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-veg-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the broccoli and green onions and cook until the vegetables are all tender, about 3 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-chix-veg-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the chicken back to the wok along with the sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok.jpg\" alt=\"Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116254\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-stir-wok-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook, stirring and tossing until the sauce thickens, cooks through, and everything is well coated. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116241\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1.jpg\" alt=\"Serve at once over rice or noodles.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116241\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/stir-fry-final-bowl1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serve at once over rice or noodles. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115560/the-weeknight-stir-fry-guide","authors":["5015","5014","11350"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_12869","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_14362"],"tags":["bayareabites_475","bayareabites_16285","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_8986","bayareabites_15790","bayareabites_3682","bayareabites_16284","bayareabites_15791"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116242","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_115571":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_115571","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"115571","score":null,"sort":[1488251782000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tasting-the-immigrant-experience-at-the-2017-caamfest","title":"Tasting the Immigrant Experience at the 2017 CAAMFest 35","publishDate":1488251782,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>My earliest memory of my maternal grandmother is in a kitchen that I can just barely picture. It's far too large and blurry at the walls, which are dim and milky white. The table in front of me comes into focus, along with my grandmother's hands. She is making tortillas, flattening balls of dough with a rolling pin and then quickly transferring a disc of flour and lard from hand to hand before depositing it on a hot plancha. The finished tortilla lands in front of me. My little hands bring it to my mouth as the memory fades. Before disappearing, this brief image has communicated volumes about who I am and where I come from. It is my family's immigrant experience encapsulated in a single tortilla, passed from my grandmother's hands, which repeated these gestures countless times over the decades, preparing the staple that nourished her ten children and, when we were lucky, their children as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As 88-year-old Eva Hashiguchi prepares the many dishes that populate her annual Japanese New Year party, I couldn't help but flash on the above image of my own grandmother. These rituals are about more than just the acquisition and combination of ingredients, they are a complicated dance that involves the whole body in the offering. In Matthew Hashiguchi's film, \u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>, which takes its name from the centerpiece dish of Eva's annual family celebration, this meal is the site of more than just cooking and eating. Matthew and his extended family have been sustained by their matriarch's relentless positivity, but also shaped by a defining trauma without which their family may never have come into existence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Roy Choi\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-115583\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Roy Choi \u003ccite>(Travis Jensen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goodlucksoupfilm.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is one of just a few food-related films screening at this year's 35th annual \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFest\u003c/a>, put on by the Center for Asian American Media, which runs March 9-19, 2017 and features 113 films from around the globe at various Bay Area locations. As usual, the festival is kicked off by the \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/section/caamfeast/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a>, a celebration of Asian American culinary achievement on March 4, 2017. Each year, the Feast acknowledges the contributions of a trio of chefs and food organizations. This year, alongside the Asian Chefs Association and People's Kitchen Collective, the feast honors chef Roy Choi, whose Kogi fleet of L.A.-based Korean taco trucks is credited with kicking off the current food truck phenomenon. Choi's signature Korean BBQ taco is a quintessentially Los Angeles invention, famously representing the city's diversity through taste and giving voice to a certain part of the immigration experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAAMFeast annually celebrates the centrality of cuisine to culture and identity. This year's food-related selections elaborate the complicated issues surrounding the immigrant experience, taking on added relevance in the current political climate. The kitchen is so often the site where individual flair meets family tradition. Flavors melt but remain distinct. Immigrants may arrive and assimilate other aspects of their original cultures, but taste persists. Food defines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/azE0SSHFcmI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/films/good-luck-soup/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (March 18) begins with a startling admission; the filmmaker remembers yelling \"I don't want to be Japanese\" at his Japanese-American father. As a mixed-race kid growing up in an Irish Catholic neighborhood in Cleveland, Ohio, Hashiguchi felt intense pressure to assimilate. He and his siblings recount the constant requests for definition their looks, their culture and their name inspired. His family belonged to a tight-knit enclave of American citizens of Japanese descent that formed shortly after World War II, when they were released from the infamous internment camps. It is this trauma that worries Eva's progeny. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115581\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-1020x1519.jpg\" alt=\"Still from Good Luck Soup\" width=\"640\" height=\"953\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115581\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-1020x1519.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-160x238.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-800x1191.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-768x1143.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-960x1429.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-240x357.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-375x558.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-520x774.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2.jpg 1162w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Good Luck Soup\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eva is an American citizen, born in Florin, CA to Japanese immigrants. She and her family lost their fruit farm and were interned by the United States government shortly after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. She spent her teenage years in the camps, where she also met her future husband. While Eva freely shares her experiences from that period, she lived her life determined not to let this deep betrayal limit or define her. If anything, the internment clarified many aspects of the American experience for Eva and redoubled her commitment to celebrate her Japanese heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eva's three children married non-Japanese men and women. Today, her grandchildren struggle with their heritage and wonder what will happen when 88-year-old Eva no longer prepares that annual bowl of good luck soup. The film is a heartfelt and personal exploration of what it means to be American, using the preparation of an annual meal to reveal the complicated issues of immigration, race, heritage and assimilation, while exploring the lasting impact of a great injustice the U.S. government committed against a group of its own citizens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115582\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1020x574.jpg\" alt=\"Still from Sunday Dinner\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115582\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Sunday Dinner\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/films/sunday-dinner/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Sunday Dinner\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a short included in the program \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/events/eat-chinatown/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Eat Chinatown\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (March 11) provides an interesting contrast. The film is a loving portrait of a patriarch's prep for his weekly family sit-down. While he cooks Sunday dinner, Kwok Wai Chan briefly describes his escape from Mao's China and professes his admiration for the United States, a land where his hard work has been rewarded -- a place where he has felt free. The film calls into question much of the current rhetoric about immigration in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAAMFeast honoree, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/RidingShotgunLA\" target=\"_blank\">Roy Choi's\u003c/a> immigrant experience is best expressed in the flavor of his food. Both Choi's parents are from Korea, his mother from the north, his father from the south. His family arrived in California when Choi was two years old. Their entrepreneurial adventure included selling jars of his mother's homemade kimchee out of the trunk of the family car. Choi describes her as having \"flavor in her fingertips,\" a quality he obviously inherited. The family ran several businesses, including a Korean restaurant in Anaheim, CA, which launched and failed during a formative period for Choi. Later, his parents would make their fortune in the jewelry business and move into an upscale suburb in Orange County. Choi's misspent youth, which included some famous addictions -- to drugs, milkshakes, and gambling -- and time spent as a low-rider in Norwalk, is well documented in his memoir/cookbook \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/L-Son-Life-City/dp/0062202634\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. He runs a fleet of food trucks and has opened several restaurants across Los Angeles, but his main accomplishment seems to be synthesizing the flavors of his Korean roots with the Mexican street foods of his youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Innovation is powerfully connected to diversity, which cannot be separated from the global circulation of influences and populations. The CAAMFeast is an annual reminder of how the food we eat expresses where we come from while providing fuel for the way forward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAAMFeast is Saturday, March 4, 2017 at the San Francisco War Memorial Green Room in San Francisco. The 35th annual CAAMFest is March 9-19, 2017 at various Bay Area locations. For \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/\" target=\"_blank\">tickets and information\u003c/a> visit caamfest.com. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The annual celebration of food and film reveals the centrality of food to culture. The CAAMFeast is Saturday, March 4, 2017 at the San Francisco War Memorial Green Room in San Francisco. The 35th annual CAAMFest is March 9-19, 2017 at various Bay Area locations. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1493085727,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":1186},"headData":{"title":"Tasting the Immigrant Experience at the 2017 CAAMFest 35 | KQED","description":"The annual celebration of food and film reveals the centrality of food to culture. The CAAMFeast is Saturday, March 4, 2017 at the San Francisco War Memorial Green Room in San Francisco. The 35th annual CAAMFest is March 9-19, 2017 at various Bay Area locations. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tasting the Immigrant Experience at the 2017 CAAMFest 35","datePublished":"2017-02-28T03:16:22.000Z","dateModified":"2017-04-25T02:02:07.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"115571 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115571","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/27/tasting-the-immigrant-experience-at-the-2017-caamfest/","disqusTitle":"Tasting the Immigrant Experience at the 2017 CAAMFest 35","path":"/bayareabites/115571/tasting-the-immigrant-experience-at-the-2017-caamfest","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My earliest memory of my maternal grandmother is in a kitchen that I can just barely picture. It's far too large and blurry at the walls, which are dim and milky white. The table in front of me comes into focus, along with my grandmother's hands. She is making tortillas, flattening balls of dough with a rolling pin and then quickly transferring a disc of flour and lard from hand to hand before depositing it on a hot plancha. The finished tortilla lands in front of me. My little hands bring it to my mouth as the memory fades. Before disappearing, this brief image has communicated volumes about who I am and where I come from. It is my family's immigrant experience encapsulated in a single tortilla, passed from my grandmother's hands, which repeated these gestures countless times over the decades, preparing the staple that nourished her ten children and, when we were lucky, their children as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As 88-year-old Eva Hashiguchi prepares the many dishes that populate her annual Japanese New Year party, I couldn't help but flash on the above image of my own grandmother. These rituals are about more than just the acquisition and combination of ingredients, they are a complicated dance that involves the whole body in the offering. In Matthew Hashiguchi's film, \u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>, which takes its name from the centerpiece dish of Eva's annual family celebration, this meal is the site of more than just cooking and eating. Matthew and his extended family have been sustained by their matriarch's relentless positivity, but also shaped by a defining trauma without which their family may never have come into existence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Roy Choi\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-115583\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Roy-Choi-3-Photo-Credit-Travis-Jensen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Roy Choi \u003ccite>(Travis Jensen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goodlucksoupfilm.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is one of just a few food-related films screening at this year's 35th annual \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFest\u003c/a>, put on by the Center for Asian American Media, which runs March 9-19, 2017 and features 113 films from around the globe at various Bay Area locations. As usual, the festival is kicked off by the \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/section/caamfeast/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a>, a celebration of Asian American culinary achievement on March 4, 2017. Each year, the Feast acknowledges the contributions of a trio of chefs and food organizations. This year, alongside the Asian Chefs Association and People's Kitchen Collective, the feast honors chef Roy Choi, whose Kogi fleet of L.A.-based Korean taco trucks is credited with kicking off the current food truck phenomenon. Choi's signature Korean BBQ taco is a quintessentially Los Angeles invention, famously representing the city's diversity through taste and giving voice to a certain part of the immigration experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAAMFeast annually celebrates the centrality of cuisine to culture and identity. This year's food-related selections elaborate the complicated issues surrounding the immigrant experience, taking on added relevance in the current political climate. The kitchen is so often the site where individual flair meets family tradition. Flavors melt but remain distinct. Immigrants may arrive and assimilate other aspects of their original cultures, but taste persists. Food defines.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/azE0SSHFcmI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/azE0SSHFcmI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/films/good-luck-soup/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Good Luck Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (March 18) begins with a startling admission; the filmmaker remembers yelling \"I don't want to be Japanese\" at his Japanese-American father. As a mixed-race kid growing up in an Irish Catholic neighborhood in Cleveland, Ohio, Hashiguchi felt intense pressure to assimilate. He and his siblings recount the constant requests for definition their looks, their culture and their name inspired. His family belonged to a tight-knit enclave of American citizens of Japanese descent that formed shortly after World War II, when they were released from the infamous internment camps. It is this trauma that worries Eva's progeny. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115581\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-1020x1519.jpg\" alt=\"Still from Good Luck Soup\" width=\"640\" height=\"953\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115581\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-1020x1519.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-160x238.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-800x1191.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-768x1143.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-960x1429.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-240x357.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-375x558.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2-520x774.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Good_Luck_Soup_2.jpg 1162w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Good Luck Soup\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eva is an American citizen, born in Florin, CA to Japanese immigrants. She and her family lost their fruit farm and were interned by the United States government shortly after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. She spent her teenage years in the camps, where she also met her future husband. While Eva freely shares her experiences from that period, she lived her life determined not to let this deep betrayal limit or define her. If anything, the internment clarified many aspects of the American experience for Eva and redoubled her commitment to celebrate her Japanese heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eva's three children married non-Japanese men and women. Today, her grandchildren struggle with their heritage and wonder what will happen when 88-year-old Eva no longer prepares that annual bowl of good luck soup. The film is a heartfelt and personal exploration of what it means to be American, using the preparation of an annual meal to reveal the complicated issues of immigration, race, heritage and assimilation, while exploring the lasting impact of a great injustice the U.S. government committed against a group of its own citizens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115582\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1020x574.jpg\" alt=\"Still from Sunday Dinner\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115582\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Eat_Chinatown_1-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Sunday Dinner\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/films/sunday-dinner/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Sunday Dinner\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a short included in the program \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/events/eat-chinatown/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Eat Chinatown\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (March 11) provides an interesting contrast. The film is a loving portrait of a patriarch's prep for his weekly family sit-down. While he cooks Sunday dinner, Kwok Wai Chan briefly describes his escape from Mao's China and professes his admiration for the United States, a land where his hard work has been rewarded -- a place where he has felt free. The film calls into question much of the current rhetoric about immigration in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAAMFeast honoree, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/RidingShotgunLA\" target=\"_blank\">Roy Choi's\u003c/a> immigrant experience is best expressed in the flavor of his food. Both Choi's parents are from Korea, his mother from the north, his father from the south. His family arrived in California when Choi was two years old. Their entrepreneurial adventure included selling jars of his mother's homemade kimchee out of the trunk of the family car. Choi describes her as having \"flavor in her fingertips,\" a quality he obviously inherited. The family ran several businesses, including a Korean restaurant in Anaheim, CA, which launched and failed during a formative period for Choi. Later, his parents would make their fortune in the jewelry business and move into an upscale suburb in Orange County. Choi's misspent youth, which included some famous addictions -- to drugs, milkshakes, and gambling -- and time spent as a low-rider in Norwalk, is well documented in his memoir/cookbook \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/L-Son-Life-City/dp/0062202634\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. He runs a fleet of food trucks and has opened several restaurants across Los Angeles, but his main accomplishment seems to be synthesizing the flavors of his Korean roots with the Mexican street foods of his youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Innovation is powerfully connected to diversity, which cannot be separated from the global circulation of influences and populations. The CAAMFeast is an annual reminder of how the food we eat expresses where we come from while providing fuel for the way forward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAAMFeast is Saturday, March 4, 2017 at the San Francisco War Memorial Green Room in San Francisco. The 35th annual CAAMFest is March 9-19, 2017 at various Bay Area locations. For \u003ca href=\"http://caamfest.com/2017/\" target=\"_blank\">tickets and information\u003c/a> visit caamfest.com. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115571/tasting-the-immigrant-experience-at-the-2017-caamfest","authors":["8"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_11455","bayareabites_13014","bayareabites_475","bayareabites_452","bayareabites_335","bayareabites_494","bayareabites_15480"],"featImg":"bayareabites_115580","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_107073":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107073","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107073","score":null,"sort":[1456195796000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom","title":"Lo Mein Loophole: How U.S. Immigration Law Fueled A Chinese Restaurant Boom","publishDate":1456195796,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Americans craving kung pao chicken or a good lo mein for dinner have plenty of options: The U.S. is home to more than 40,000 Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could think of this proliferation as a promise fulfilled — America as the great melting pot and land of opportunity for immigrants. Ironically, the legal forces that made this Chinese culinary profusion possible, beginning in the early 20th century, were born of altogether different sentiments: racism and xenophobia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anti-Chinese sentiment was rampant in America in the early 20th century — and had been since the latter half of the 19th century, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.migrationpolicy.org/article/chinese-immigrants-united-states\">as many as 300,000 Chinese\u003c/a> miners, farmers, railroad and factory workers came to the U.S. Many non-Chinese workers felt threatened by these laborers, who often worked for lower wages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amid mounting social tensions, the U.S. passed immigration laws that explicitly barred Chinese laborers from immigrating or becoming U.S. citizens, and made it extremely difficult for even legal residents to re-enter the U.S. after a visit home to China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880.\" width=\"760\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107081\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant-400x209.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880. \u003ccite>( The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection,The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as MIT legal historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.scholarsstrategynetwork.org/scholar/heather-r-lee\">Heather Lee\u003c/a> tells it, there was an important exception to these laws: Some Chinese business owners in the U.S. could get special merchant visas that allowed them to travel to China, and bring back employees. Only a few types of businesses qualified for this status. In 1915, a federal court added restaurants to that list. Voila! A restaurant boom was born.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The number of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. doubles from 1910 to 1920, and doubles again from 1920 to 1930,\" says Lee, referring to research done by economist \u003ca href=\"http://economics.ucr.edu/people/profemer/carter.html\">Susan Carter\u003c/a>. In New York City alone, Lee found that the number of Chinese eateries quadrupled between 1910 and 1920.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee was digging through old immigration records in 2011, as part of her doctoral dissertation, when she discovered evidence that this legal change had fueled a rise in restaurants. She found a flood of applications from Chinese immigrants after 1915 seeking merchant status to start up restaurant businesses, along with applications from others brought over to work in these establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to the restaurant loophole, Lee says, most Chinese immigrants in America worked in laundries — they were excluded from better-paying options. But by 1930, they were more likely to be toiling in eating establishments. \"The scale of it increases astronomically,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107084\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/1904menu_custom.jpg\" alt=\"The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \" width=\"300\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107084\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \u003ccite>(Rare Book Division, The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many Chinese immigrants to the U.S. were men who had come alone: They were here to earn money to support families back home, not to settle down permanently. Once in the U.S., however, it was all but impossible for them to travel back to visit loved ones in China. After 1915, the visas that came with working in a restaurant became bridges to families and friends back in China, Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was really important for [these men] to be able to move back and forth, to get married and retire someday. That was the idea. These special visas were critically important,\" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, getting a special merchant visa was far from easy, Lee explains. Only the major investors in a restaurant qualified — and it had to be a \"high grade,\" fancy eatery. These investors had to manage their restaurants full time for at least a year. During that time, they couldn't do any menial work: no cooking, waiting tables or ringing up the cash register, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee says Chinese immigrants found ingenious ways to get around these hurdles: They would pool their money to start luxury \"chop suey palaces,\" then each investor would take turns running the joint for a year or 18 months. Once they'd earned merchant status, the investors would use it to bring their relatives over to work in the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee explains how it worked: \"Your cousin, your uncle has helped you over and is giving you a job. He's supposed to show you the ropes. Then you move up the hierarchy until you earn the money to be a partner in your own restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee's research focused on New York City (she's writing a book about the rise of restaurants there in the 19th and early 20th centuries). But she says the immigration dynamics were similar in other urban centers with large Chinese communities, like Chicago and San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/chopsuey_custom.jpg\" alt=\"A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \" width=\"300\" height=\"413\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107083\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \u003ccite>(Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to make these schemes work, Chinese restaurateurs also had to loop in the white vendors they worked with: Lee says Chinese immigrants had to have two white witnesses support their visa applications. In practice, she says, this turned into a quid pro quo situation: A small group of white vendors would secure the restaurants' business, and in exchange, they'd vouch for the investors. \"I found the same six vendors' names over and over again\" on old immigration documents, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's quite a different story than [the usual explanation] about why Chinese were opening restaurants during that period,\" Lee tells me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That standard explanation points to a confluence of cultural forces. For one thing, as historian \u003ca href=\"http://cup.columbia.edu/book/chop-suey-usa/9780231168922\">Yong Chen notes\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Chop Suey\u003c/em>, \u003cem>USA,\u003c/em> Chinese food's cheapness made it an affordable luxury and helped democratize the dining out experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were also a draw — especially to bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. By 1910, \"going out for chop suey made middle-class Americans feel pleasantly naughty,\" write Lisa Stoffer and Michael Lesy in \u003cem>Repast\u003c/em>, their history of dining out during that era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural historians also tell of the rise of \"slumming parties\" — groups of well-heeled suburbanites and out-of-towners in New York who'd pay for tours of Chinatown, where the supposed \"depravity\" of the place was the main attraction. And some point to New York Jews who shook off the old country and \u003ca href=\"http://www.haaretz.com/jewish/features/1.633512\">embraced Chinese food\u003c/a> as a sign of their own modernity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these factors played a role, Lee says, but they're not the whole story. \"While going to Chinese restaurants did play into an emerging worldview, what's really under-recognized is the primary motivation for the Chinese,\" Lee tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That motivation was the same then as what still drives many immigrants in America today: to save, get ahead and send money to family back home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a> 2016. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the early 20th century, the Chinese faced draconian immigration rules. But owners of a few types of businesses could get special visas. In 1915, restaurants got on that list. The rest is history.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1456195987,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1188},"headData":{"title":"Lo Mein Loophole: How U.S. Immigration Law Fueled A Chinese Restaurant Boom | KQED","description":"In the early 20th century, the Chinese faced draconian immigration rules. But owners of a few types of businesses could get special visas. In 1915, restaurants got on that list. The rest is history.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Lo Mein Loophole: How U.S. Immigration Law Fueled A Chinese Restaurant Boom","datePublished":"2016-02-23T02:49:56.000Z","dateModified":"2016-02-23T02:53:07.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"107073 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107073","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/22/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom/","disqusTitle":"Lo Mein Loophole: How U.S. Immigration Law Fueled A Chinese Restaurant Boom","nprImageCredit":"Weegee(Arthur Fellig)","nprByline":"Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"International Center of Photography/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"467113401","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=467113401&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/22/467113401/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom?ft=nprml&f=467113401","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:44:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:27:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:44:18 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/107073/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Americans craving kung pao chicken or a good lo mein for dinner have plenty of options: The U.S. is home to more than 40,000 Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could think of this proliferation as a promise fulfilled — America as the great melting pot and land of opportunity for immigrants. Ironically, the legal forces that made this Chinese culinary profusion possible, beginning in the early 20th century, were born of altogether different sentiments: racism and xenophobia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anti-Chinese sentiment was rampant in America in the early 20th century — and had been since the latter half of the 19th century, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.migrationpolicy.org/article/chinese-immigrants-united-states\">as many as 300,000 Chinese\u003c/a> miners, farmers, railroad and factory workers came to the U.S. Many non-Chinese workers felt threatened by these laborers, who often worked for lower wages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amid mounting social tensions, the U.S. passed immigration laws that explicitly barred Chinese laborers from immigrating or becoming U.S. citizens, and made it extremely difficult for even legal residents to re-enter the U.S. after a visit home to China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880.\" width=\"760\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107081\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant-400x209.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880. \u003ccite>( The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection,The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as MIT legal historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.scholarsstrategynetwork.org/scholar/heather-r-lee\">Heather Lee\u003c/a> tells it, there was an important exception to these laws: Some Chinese business owners in the U.S. could get special merchant visas that allowed them to travel to China, and bring back employees. Only a few types of businesses qualified for this status. In 1915, a federal court added restaurants to that list. Voila! A restaurant boom was born.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The number of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. doubles from 1910 to 1920, and doubles again from 1920 to 1930,\" says Lee, referring to research done by economist \u003ca href=\"http://economics.ucr.edu/people/profemer/carter.html\">Susan Carter\u003c/a>. In New York City alone, Lee found that the number of Chinese eateries quadrupled between 1910 and 1920.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee was digging through old immigration records in 2011, as part of her doctoral dissertation, when she discovered evidence that this legal change had fueled a rise in restaurants. She found a flood of applications from Chinese immigrants after 1915 seeking merchant status to start up restaurant businesses, along with applications from others brought over to work in these establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to the restaurant loophole, Lee says, most Chinese immigrants in America worked in laundries — they were excluded from better-paying options. But by 1930, they were more likely to be toiling in eating establishments. \"The scale of it increases astronomically,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107084\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/1904menu_custom.jpg\" alt=\"The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \" width=\"300\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107084\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \u003ccite>(Rare Book Division, The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many Chinese immigrants to the U.S. were men who had come alone: They were here to earn money to support families back home, not to settle down permanently. Once in the U.S., however, it was all but impossible for them to travel back to visit loved ones in China. After 1915, the visas that came with working in a restaurant became bridges to families and friends back in China, Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was really important for [these men] to be able to move back and forth, to get married and retire someday. That was the idea. These special visas were critically important,\" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, getting a special merchant visa was far from easy, Lee explains. Only the major investors in a restaurant qualified — and it had to be a \"high grade,\" fancy eatery. These investors had to manage their restaurants full time for at least a year. During that time, they couldn't do any menial work: no cooking, waiting tables or ringing up the cash register, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee says Chinese immigrants found ingenious ways to get around these hurdles: They would pool their money to start luxury \"chop suey palaces,\" then each investor would take turns running the joint for a year or 18 months. Once they'd earned merchant status, the investors would use it to bring their relatives over to work in the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee explains how it worked: \"Your cousin, your uncle has helped you over and is giving you a job. He's supposed to show you the ropes. Then you move up the hierarchy until you earn the money to be a partner in your own restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee's research focused on New York City (she's writing a book about the rise of restaurants there in the 19th and early 20th centuries). But she says the immigration dynamics were similar in other urban centers with large Chinese communities, like Chicago and San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/chopsuey_custom.jpg\" alt=\"A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \" width=\"300\" height=\"413\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107083\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \u003ccite>(Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to make these schemes work, Chinese restaurateurs also had to loop in the white vendors they worked with: Lee says Chinese immigrants had to have two white witnesses support their visa applications. In practice, she says, this turned into a quid pro quo situation: A small group of white vendors would secure the restaurants' business, and in exchange, they'd vouch for the investors. \"I found the same six vendors' names over and over again\" on old immigration documents, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's quite a different story than [the usual explanation] about why Chinese were opening restaurants during that period,\" Lee tells me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That standard explanation points to a confluence of cultural forces. For one thing, as historian \u003ca href=\"http://cup.columbia.edu/book/chop-suey-usa/9780231168922\">Yong Chen notes\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Chop Suey\u003c/em>, \u003cem>USA,\u003c/em> Chinese food's cheapness made it an affordable luxury and helped democratize the dining out experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were also a draw — especially to bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. By 1910, \"going out for chop suey made middle-class Americans feel pleasantly naughty,\" write Lisa Stoffer and Michael Lesy in \u003cem>Repast\u003c/em>, their history of dining out during that era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural historians also tell of the rise of \"slumming parties\" — groups of well-heeled suburbanites and out-of-towners in New York who'd pay for tours of Chinatown, where the supposed \"depravity\" of the place was the main attraction. And some point to New York Jews who shook off the old country and \u003ca href=\"http://www.haaretz.com/jewish/features/1.633512\">embraced Chinese food\u003c/a> as a sign of their own modernity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these factors played a role, Lee says, but they're not the whole story. \"While going to Chinese restaurants did play into an emerging worldview, what's really under-recognized is the primary motivation for the Chinese,\" Lee tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That motivation was the same then as what still drives many immigrants in America today: to save, get ahead and send money to family back home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a> 2016. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107073/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom","authors":["byline_bayareabites_107073"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_475","bayareabites_15298","bayareabites_14177","bayareabites_15297"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107074","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_101881":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_101881","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"101881","score":null,"sort":[1445011250000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"5-bites-a-list-asian-rice-plates-in-oakland","title":"5 Bites: A-List Asian Rice Plates in Oakland","publishDate":1445011250,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Sandwiches, burritos, slices of pizza -- these are all solid options if you want a fast, affordable meal. But as a Korean-American who grew up eating rice with breakfast, lunch and dinner, my idea of a \"meat and three\" often includes this staple grain from Asia. Given the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Asian-population-swells-in-Bay-Area-state-nation-3425777.php\" target=\"_blank\">diverse ethnic population of the Bay Area\u003c/a>, there's no shortage of restaurants to order a humble rice plate -- in its numerous incarnations -- around the clock. Here's five places that I've selected to show the range of tasty rice plates that are available in Oakland; please let us know your favorites in the comments. (And stay tuned for my follow-up post about rice bowls.)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Tastiest Breakfast-For-Dinner Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101920\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101920\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283.jpg\" alt=\"Chilli Padi's nasi lemak is a spicy melange of salty, fishy and savory flavors.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chilli Padi's nasi lemak is a spicy melange of salty, fishy and savory flavors. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Whenever I head to \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chillipadimalaysiancuisine.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi Malaysian Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> -- which is located right in the heart of downtown Oakland's Chinatown -- I admit I'm rather lazy and default to ordering one of two of my favorite Malay dishes: a big bowl of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laksa\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>laksa mee\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a spicy coconut milk noodle soup, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasi_lemak\" target=\"_blank\">nasi lemak\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>which is considered\u003cem> \u003c/em>the country's national dish. Typically eaten for breakfast, it's now consumed all day in Malaysia and neighboring Southeast Asian countries. There's myriad incarnations, but a traditional version, like the one served at Chilli Padi, contains the following mini-buffet: stir-fried, chili-infused anchovies; roasted, salted peanuts; half of a hard-boiled egg, curried meat (in this case, tender slices chicken with potatoes); fresh cucumbers; and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambal\" target=\"_blank\">sambal\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or chili paste. They also include a small side of pickled cabbage that's reminiscent of a milder form of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi\" target=\"_blank\">kimchi\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. But the most alluring component is its centerpiece: an aromatic mound of coconut milk rice flavored with cloves and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pandanus\" target=\"_blank\">pandan\u003c/a>\u003c/em> leaves. (Sometimes the entire dish is wrapped in or served on top of one of these leaves as well.) Its rich flavor lives up to the dish's name, as \u003cem>nasi lemak \u003c/em>translates to \"fat rice\" (although from a culinary standpoint, \u003ca href=\"http://zesterdaily.com/cooking/malaysian-rice-dish-nasi-lemak-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">it means \"enriched\"\u003c/a>.) There's a good chance you'll leave the restaurant a little bit fatter and happier afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chillipadimalaysiancuisine.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n366 8th Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Px7wDH83gDr\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 891-8862\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu and Sun 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-10:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chillipadimalaysiancuisine\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi Malaysian Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Rice Plates $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Best Cinderella-esque Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102179\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN.jpg\" alt=\"Bún Mam Sóc Trang's plentiful broken rice plate also comes with a small bowl of clear chicken-pork broth. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102179\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang's plentiful broken rice plate also comes with a small bowl of clear chicken-pork broth. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've heaped loads of praise upon \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/b%C3%BAn-mam-s%C3%B3c-trang-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang\u003c/a> \u003c/strong>in my previous '5 Bites' write-up about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/30/5-bites-un-pho-gettable-vietnamese-food-in-oakland/\" target=\"_blank\">excellent Vietnamese food in Oakland\u003c/a>. It's worth trekking out to East Oakland to eat anything and everything that emerges from their homestyle kitchen -- but you can't go wrong with ordering the beloved Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) street food dish, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C6%A1m_t%E1%BA%A5m\" target=\"_blank\">cơm tấm\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or broken rice plates. (The dish originates from southern Vietnamese farmers that repurposed the unsellable grains that were broken during the milling process into cheap meals.) There's 11 to choose from on their menu, depending on whether you want grilled or shredded pork, crispy chicken or simmered prawns. They're paired with great sides such as \u003cem>s\u003c/em>\u003ci>trứng hấp, \u003c/i>or steamed\u003ci> \u003c/i>egg cakes filled with translucent noodles and pork and fried shrimp cakes with a delicate, flaky crust. Be sure to dip your meat in the \u003cem>nuoc cham\u003c/em> made from fermented fish sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/b%C3%BAn-mam-s%C3%B3c-trang-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1326 E 18th Street [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/lCuGK\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94606\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 534-2828\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Sun 8am-6pm; From 4-6pm, Take-Out Only\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Rice Plates $10 and under)\u003cbr>\nCash only \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Best Polynesian Rice Plate with Thanksgiving-Sized Portions\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-102024\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357.jpg\" alt=\"The overflowing BBQ Plate at Mo's Hut is more like a full-size platter of food.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The overflowing BBQ Plate at Mo's Hut is more like a full-size platter of food. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As global explorers landed on Hawaii's shores throughout its history of settlement, native foods that were gradually introduced -- such as \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malasada\" target=\"_blank\">malasadas\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (Portugal) and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cha_siu_bao\" target=\"_blank\">manapua\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (China) -- helped create a diverse indigenous cuisine. Japan's influence is most evident, with unique dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_musubi\" target=\"_blank\">Spam \u003cem>musubi\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poke_(fish_salad)\" target=\"_blank\">poke\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shave_ice\" target=\"_blank\">shave ice\u003c/a>. Over at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/mos-hut-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, a cozy \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/food-tastes-better-when-youre-having-fun/Content?oid=4247574\" target=\"_blank\">Samoan-Hawaiian venue\u003c/a> in Fruitvale, you can get a quintessential Hawaiian \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plate_lunch\" target=\"_blank\">plate lunch\u003c/a> with platter-sized portions. The standard two scoops of white rice and macaroni salad (with a hefty addition of potatoes and imitation crab) are crammed into a container that barely holds a huge pile of grilled short ribs (prepared and seasoned like Korean \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galbi\" target=\"_blank\">kalbi\u003c/a>\u003c/em>) and barbecued chicken thighs and beef that are glazed with a sweet teriyaki sauce. This feast will easily feed two people, so sharing is encouraged. If you're in the mood for something different, they also have the \"Mo's Special\" with corned beef, \u003cem>chop suey\u003c/em>, barbecued chicken and coconut milk bananas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/mos-hut-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2676 Fruitvale Avenue [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/k7sn2iuxAT52\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 328-1677\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-7pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mos.hut.7\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Rice Plate with the Best International Pedigree\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101991\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama.jpg\" alt=\"Juicy pork tonkatsu swims in a pool of savory curry sauce from AS B-Dama.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Juicy pork tonkatsu swims in a pool of savory curry sauce from AS B-Dama. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Curry rice, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_curry\" target=\"_blank\">karē raisu\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is a fusion dish that dates back to the 19th century. \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/06/big-in-japan-kare-raisu-japanese-curry-rice.html\" target=\"_blank\">It was introduced to the Japanese by the British\u003c/a> (who developed a taste for curry during the era of colonial rule in India.) A part of my mom's repertoire of Korean \"fast food,\" it was one of the quick-and-easy dinners she'd throw together for my brother and me. She'd sautée chopped onions, carrots and potatoes with chunks of beef, then simmer the mixture with water and cubes of concentrated curry spices from the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.sbfoods-worldwide.com/foodCulture/curry/foods.html\" target=\"_blank\">S & B \"Golden Curry\" brand\u003c/a>. (Koreans also became partial to curry rice through similar wartime circumstances; they were influenced by Japanese culture during the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korea_under_Japanese_rule\" target=\"_blank\">35-year period of occupation\u003c/a> in the early 20th century.) The \u003ci>katsu-karē\u003c/i> variant comes with a breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet that downtown Oakland's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.asbdama.com/\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> offers on its lunchtime menu. With no added vegetables, their earthy, flavorful curry is less like a stew and functions more as a dipping sauce for their juicy \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonkatsu\" target=\"_blank\">tonkatsu\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. And a fresh garden salad with ginger dressing nicely balances the substantial helpings of starch and protein. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.asbdama.com/\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSwan’s Market, 907 Washington Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/k2qXvgaucZx\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 251-1113\u003cbr>\nHours: Everyday 11:30am-2pm; 5:30-10pm; Closed Sunday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/asbdama\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Best Thai Comfort Food Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101923\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101923\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279.jpg\" alt=\"Khao mun gai is a classic Thai comfort food dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao mun gai is a classic Thai comfort food dish. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've been a fan of Oakland's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> since its opening back in 2011 when I first \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/04/hawker-fare/\" target=\"_blank\">reviewed it for Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>. They've tweaked their offerings over the years and now serve nine rice plates, instead of bowls, at lunchtime. It's no surprise that \u003ca title=\"Hainanese chicken rice\" href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hainanese_chicken_rice\">Hainanese chicken rice\u003c/a>, one of Singapore's national dishes (which originally hailed from southern China), is featured on Hawker Fare's street food-centric menu. They serve the Thai rendition here (\u003cem>khao mun gai\u003c/em>) but the basic components are similar: poached, boneless chicken that's silkily soft in texture; unctuous rice cooked in chicken broth and fat; crisp cucumber slices; sprigs of cilantro; and a thick, fermented bean dipping sauce. (Chili sauce or chicken broth often accompanies the Singapore or Malay versions.) Be sure to add an over easy fried egg for $1.50 to up the umami quotient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAddress: 2300 Webster Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/GNPZALUqjvR2\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 832-8896\u003cbr>\nHours: Lunch: Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; Dinner: Tue–Thu 5:30pm-9:30pm Fri-Sat 5:30pm–10pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hawker-Fare/149165815151519\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hawkerfareOAK\">@hawkerfareOAK\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sandwiches, burritos, slices of pizza — these are all solid options if you want a fast, affordable meal. But as a Korean-American who grew up eating rice with breakfast, lunch and dinner, my idea of a “meat and three” often includes this staple grain from Asia.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1481592633,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":1388},"headData":{"title":"5 Bites: A-List Asian Rice Plates in Oakland | KQED","description":"Sandwiches, burritos, slices of pizza — these are all solid options if you want a fast, affordable meal. But as a Korean-American who grew up eating rice with breakfast, lunch and dinner, my idea of a “meat and three” often includes this staple grain from Asia.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"5 Bites: A-List Asian Rice Plates in Oakland","datePublished":"2015-10-16T16:00:50.000Z","dateModified":"2016-12-13T01:30:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"101881 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=101881","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/16/5-bites-a-list-asian-rice-plates-in-oakland/","disqusTitle":"5 Bites: A-List Asian Rice Plates in Oakland","path":"/bayareabites/101881/5-bites-a-list-asian-rice-plates-in-oakland","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sandwiches, burritos, slices of pizza -- these are all solid options if you want a fast, affordable meal. But as a Korean-American who grew up eating rice with breakfast, lunch and dinner, my idea of a \"meat and three\" often includes this staple grain from Asia. Given the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Asian-population-swells-in-Bay-Area-state-nation-3425777.php\" target=\"_blank\">diverse ethnic population of the Bay Area\u003c/a>, there's no shortage of restaurants to order a humble rice plate -- in its numerous incarnations -- around the clock. Here's five places that I've selected to show the range of tasty rice plates that are available in Oakland; please let us know your favorites in the comments. (And stay tuned for my follow-up post about rice bowls.)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Tastiest Breakfast-For-Dinner Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101920\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101920\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283.jpg\" alt=\"Chilli Padi's nasi lemak is a spicy melange of salty, fishy and savory flavors.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6283-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chilli Padi's nasi lemak is a spicy melange of salty, fishy and savory flavors. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Whenever I head to \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chillipadimalaysiancuisine.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi Malaysian Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> -- which is located right in the heart of downtown Oakland's Chinatown -- I admit I'm rather lazy and default to ordering one of two of my favorite Malay dishes: a big bowl of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laksa\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>laksa mee\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a spicy coconut milk noodle soup, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasi_lemak\" target=\"_blank\">nasi lemak\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>which is considered\u003cem> \u003c/em>the country's national dish. Typically eaten for breakfast, it's now consumed all day in Malaysia and neighboring Southeast Asian countries. There's myriad incarnations, but a traditional version, like the one served at Chilli Padi, contains the following mini-buffet: stir-fried, chili-infused anchovies; roasted, salted peanuts; half of a hard-boiled egg, curried meat (in this case, tender slices chicken with potatoes); fresh cucumbers; and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambal\" target=\"_blank\">sambal\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or chili paste. They also include a small side of pickled cabbage that's reminiscent of a milder form of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi\" target=\"_blank\">kimchi\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. But the most alluring component is its centerpiece: an aromatic mound of coconut milk rice flavored with cloves and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pandanus\" target=\"_blank\">pandan\u003c/a>\u003c/em> leaves. (Sometimes the entire dish is wrapped in or served on top of one of these leaves as well.) Its rich flavor lives up to the dish's name, as \u003cem>nasi lemak \u003c/em>translates to \"fat rice\" (although from a culinary standpoint, \u003ca href=\"http://zesterdaily.com/cooking/malaysian-rice-dish-nasi-lemak-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">it means \"enriched\"\u003c/a>.) There's a good chance you'll leave the restaurant a little bit fatter and happier afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chillipadimalaysiancuisine.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n366 8th Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Px7wDH83gDr\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 891-8862\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu and Sun 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-10:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chillipadimalaysiancuisine\" target=\"_blank\">Chilli Padi Malaysian Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Rice Plates $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Best Cinderella-esque Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102179\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN.jpg\" alt=\"Bún Mam Sóc Trang's plentiful broken rice plate also comes with a small bowl of clear chicken-pork broth. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102179\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/BUN-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang's plentiful broken rice plate also comes with a small bowl of clear chicken-pork broth. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've heaped loads of praise upon \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/b%C3%BAn-mam-s%C3%B3c-trang-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang\u003c/a> \u003c/strong>in my previous '5 Bites' write-up about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/30/5-bites-un-pho-gettable-vietnamese-food-in-oakland/\" target=\"_blank\">excellent Vietnamese food in Oakland\u003c/a>. It's worth trekking out to East Oakland to eat anything and everything that emerges from their homestyle kitchen -- but you can't go wrong with ordering the beloved Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) street food dish, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C6%A1m_t%E1%BA%A5m\" target=\"_blank\">cơm tấm\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or broken rice plates. (The dish originates from southern Vietnamese farmers that repurposed the unsellable grains that were broken during the milling process into cheap meals.) There's 11 to choose from on their menu, depending on whether you want grilled or shredded pork, crispy chicken or simmered prawns. They're paired with great sides such as \u003cem>s\u003c/em>\u003ci>trứng hấp, \u003c/i>or steamed\u003ci> \u003c/i>egg cakes filled with translucent noodles and pork and fried shrimp cakes with a delicate, flaky crust. Be sure to dip your meat in the \u003cem>nuoc cham\u003c/em> made from fermented fish sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/b%C3%BAn-mam-s%C3%B3c-trang-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Bún Mam Sóc Trang\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1326 E 18th Street [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/lCuGK\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94606\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 534-2828\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Sun 8am-6pm; From 4-6pm, Take-Out Only\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Rice Plates $10 and under)\u003cbr>\nCash only \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Best Polynesian Rice Plate with Thanksgiving-Sized Portions\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-102024\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357.jpg\" alt=\"The overflowing BBQ Plate at Mo's Hut is more like a full-size platter of food.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6357-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The overflowing BBQ Plate at Mo's Hut is more like a full-size platter of food. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As global explorers landed on Hawaii's shores throughout its history of settlement, native foods that were gradually introduced -- such as \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malasada\" target=\"_blank\">malasadas\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (Portugal) and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cha_siu_bao\" target=\"_blank\">manapua\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (China) -- helped create a diverse indigenous cuisine. Japan's influence is most evident, with unique dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_musubi\" target=\"_blank\">Spam \u003cem>musubi\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poke_(fish_salad)\" target=\"_blank\">poke\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shave_ice\" target=\"_blank\">shave ice\u003c/a>. Over at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/mos-hut-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, a cozy \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/food-tastes-better-when-youre-having-fun/Content?oid=4247574\" target=\"_blank\">Samoan-Hawaiian venue\u003c/a> in Fruitvale, you can get a quintessential Hawaiian \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plate_lunch\" target=\"_blank\">plate lunch\u003c/a> with platter-sized portions. The standard two scoops of white rice and macaroni salad (with a hefty addition of potatoes and imitation crab) are crammed into a container that barely holds a huge pile of grilled short ribs (prepared and seasoned like Korean \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galbi\" target=\"_blank\">kalbi\u003c/a>\u003c/em>) and barbecued chicken thighs and beef that are glazed with a sweet teriyaki sauce. This feast will easily feed two people, so sharing is encouraged. If you're in the mood for something different, they also have the \"Mo's Special\" with corned beef, \u003cem>chop suey\u003c/em>, barbecued chicken and coconut milk bananas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/mos-hut-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2676 Fruitvale Avenue [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/k7sn2iuxAT52\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 328-1677\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-7pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mos.hut.7\" target=\"_blank\">Mo's Hut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>The Rice Plate with the Best International Pedigree\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101991\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama.jpg\" alt=\"Juicy pork tonkatsu swims in a pool of savory curry sauce from AS B-Dama.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/Dama-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Juicy pork tonkatsu swims in a pool of savory curry sauce from AS B-Dama. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Curry rice, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_curry\" target=\"_blank\">karē raisu\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is a fusion dish that dates back to the 19th century. \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/06/big-in-japan-kare-raisu-japanese-curry-rice.html\" target=\"_blank\">It was introduced to the Japanese by the British\u003c/a> (who developed a taste for curry during the era of colonial rule in India.) A part of my mom's repertoire of Korean \"fast food,\" it was one of the quick-and-easy dinners she'd throw together for my brother and me. She'd sautée chopped onions, carrots and potatoes with chunks of beef, then simmer the mixture with water and cubes of concentrated curry spices from the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.sbfoods-worldwide.com/foodCulture/curry/foods.html\" target=\"_blank\">S & B \"Golden Curry\" brand\u003c/a>. (Koreans also became partial to curry rice through similar wartime circumstances; they were influenced by Japanese culture during the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korea_under_Japanese_rule\" target=\"_blank\">35-year period of occupation\u003c/a> in the early 20th century.) The \u003ci>katsu-karē\u003c/i> variant comes with a breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet that downtown Oakland's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.asbdama.com/\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> offers on its lunchtime menu. With no added vegetables, their earthy, flavorful curry is less like a stew and functions more as a dipping sauce for their juicy \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonkatsu\" target=\"_blank\">tonkatsu\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. And a fresh garden salad with ginger dressing nicely balances the substantial helpings of starch and protein. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.asbdama.com/\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSwan’s Market, 907 Washington Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/k2qXvgaucZx\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 251-1113\u003cbr>\nHours: Everyday 11:30am-2pm; 5:30-10pm; Closed Sunday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/asbdama\" target=\"_blank\">AS B-Dama\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Best Thai Comfort Food Rice Plate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101923\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-101923\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279.jpg\" alt=\"Khao mun gai is a classic Thai comfort food dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/IMG_6279-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao mun gai is a classic Thai comfort food dish. \u003ccite>(Jenny Oh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've been a fan of Oakland's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> since its opening back in 2011 when I first \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/04/hawker-fare/\" target=\"_blank\">reviewed it for Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>. They've tweaked their offerings over the years and now serve nine rice plates, instead of bowls, at lunchtime. It's no surprise that \u003ca title=\"Hainanese chicken rice\" href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hainanese_chicken_rice\">Hainanese chicken rice\u003c/a>, one of Singapore's national dishes (which originally hailed from southern China), is featured on Hawker Fare's street food-centric menu. They serve the Thai rendition here (\u003cem>khao mun gai\u003c/em>) but the basic components are similar: poached, boneless chicken that's silkily soft in texture; unctuous rice cooked in chicken broth and fat; crisp cucumber slices; sprigs of cilantro; and a thick, fermented bean dipping sauce. (Chili sauce or chicken broth often accompanies the Singapore or Malay versions.) Be sure to add an over easy fried egg for $1.50 to up the umami quotient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAddress: 2300 Webster Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/GNPZALUqjvR2\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 832-8896\u003cbr>\nHours: Lunch: Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; Dinner: Tue–Thu 5:30pm-9:30pm Fri-Sat 5:30pm–10pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hawker-Fare/149165815151519\" target=\"_blank\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hawkerfareOAK\">@hawkerfareOAK\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Rice Plates $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/101881/5-bites-a-list-asian-rice-plates-in-oakland","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_13036","bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_13938","bayareabites_14953","bayareabites_14956","bayareabites_14957","bayareabites_14937","bayareabites_475","bayareabites_1573","bayareabites_2165","bayareabites_9365","bayareabites_14938","bayareabites_14952","bayareabites_14936","bayareabites_14955","bayareabites_14954","bayareabites_68"],"featImg":"bayareabites_101925","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_100257":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_100257","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"100257","score":null,"sort":[1441916503000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"are-your-grandparents-being-served","title":"Are Your Grandparents Being Served?","publishDate":1441916503,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>James Wong is a man of routine. Every morning, the 63-year-old resident of San Francisco’s Sunset District meets his friends for some tai-chi exercise. Then they decide where to eat lunch. It’s usually at one of three senior centers in the southwest corner of the city. There they can get a hot meal, perhaps even freshly cooked, for $2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently Wong and his crew have added a new element to their routine: dinner at S & E Café or Prince Cooking, two Hong Kong–style cafes in the Outer Sunset. These restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We go there, have a good time, gossip a little bit,” he said. His favorite menu item is fish with curry sauce over pasta. “It’s a good value for us, considering you usually pay $10 to $12 for a dish. Now it’s $3.50 for a dish, a drink, and a little dessert.” He’s a fan, and he knows what a well-run dining program should look like: he previously worked as a restaurant manager at a Mariott hotel in San Mateo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The program, called CHAMPSS (Choosing Healthy Appetizing Meal Plan Solutions for Seniors), is a step towards giving seniors more flexibility and choice beyond the two usual ways to get low-cost meals: congregate meals at senior centers or home-delivered meals. Both are limited in terms of menu variety (there’s usually only one meal option per day) and meal-time (diners must eat at set times for congregate meals, usually limited to an hour or 90 minutes). Plus, some seniors just don’t find the idea of a congregate meal at a senior center that appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of seniors now, especially the baby boomers, they don’t want to tell people they’re attending a senior center program,” said Josephine Ma, director of fund development at Self-Help for the Elderly, the San Francisco senior service agency that runs the program. With CHAMPSS, “they can just go to a restaurant any time they want and enjoy gathering and having fun with friends. That opens up the social life of the seniors. They love it. They can go whenever they want, and pick whatever they want from the menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100262\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking.jpeg\" alt=\"Outer Sunset resident David Lok eating lunch off the CHAMPSS Menu at Prince Cooking.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100262\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking.jpeg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-400x266.jpeg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-960x639.jpeg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outer Sunset resident David Lok eating lunch off the CHAMPSS Menu at Prince Cooking. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At S & E Café, a Hong Kong-style diner on 19th Avenue near Taraval Street, diners can order from the 16-item CHAMPSS menu four days a week, anytime during the café’s hours, 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Another perk is that the CHAMPSS menu is heavy on Chinese American fare, ideal for the Sunset’s large Chinese American population; about half of the district’s residents are Asian American, and 99 percent of the CHAMPSS diners are as well. There’s wonton noodle soup, BBQ pork fried rice, fish fillet with bok choi over rice, braised tofu with bok choi and mushroom over rice, and the Hong Kong–style perennial favorite comfort food, baked rice dishes. The meals come with milk or calcium- and vitamin D–fortified orange juice, and fruit or Jello for dessert—all for a bargain suggested donation of $3.50, tax and tip included. (A second CHAMPSS dining establishment, Prince Cooking on Noriega Street near 21st Avenue, was added in June. The menu has a similar Asian and American bent: salmon pasta with Japanese gravy and seafood udon with vegetables, for example.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program is only the newest approach in a longstanding effort dating back to the 1970s, that aims for culturally appropriate, low-cost meals for an exponentially growing and increasingly diverse senior population. And the call to address this population is only getting stronger. The number of people age 65 and older is expected to double over the next 30 years. Today two in 10 elders are elders of color; by 2050 that number will double to over four in 10. Over the next four decades, AAPI elders will have the largest relative population growth among all elders. And diverse elders experience disproportionately higher poverty rates, according to a 2012 report by the Diverse Elders Coalition: nearly 10 percent of AAPI elders have incomes below the Federal Poverty Thresholds, compared to 9 percent of all American elders and 7 percent of non-Hispanic white elders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco in particular has seen an explosion of growth among Asian American seniors. Asian Pacific Islanders made up 27 percent of the city’s senior population in 1990; that jumped to 40 percent by 2008. During that time, the number of white seniors decreased by over 9,000, while Asian Pacific Islanders increased by almost 25,000. Today more than 60,000 API seniors live in San Francisco, and a third of those live below 150 percent of the Federal Poverty Line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Groups catering to this booming AAPI elder population today with culturally sensitive meals must navigate not only cuts in funding but also strict regulations on food preparation and nutrients. Yet ambitious and innovative new programs like CHAMPSS are attempting to serve this population—literally—with not only healthy, nutritious meals from their heritage but also with increased choice and flexibility about how and when they eat their meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The issue of culturally appropriate meals has been enduring challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s been an issue ever since communities of color and Jewish communities have complained about how the meal program doesn’t meet their needs,” said Donna L. Yee, CEO of the Asian Cultural Center in Sacramento. “There’s been an ongoing roil about how to make the program be more responsive to the seniors it serves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although a number of groups in California and New York have been serving culturally appropriate meals for the past 30 years, Wesley Lum, president and CEO of the National Asian Pacific Center on Aging, says that progress on the issue is uneven throughout the states. “To be frank, to have just tasty nutritional meals for seniors, that seniors want to eat, is a challenge, let alone something that is culturally or ethnically specific,” Lum said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Lum notes that he’s seen a push towards meals that can be tasty and nutritional. “Meals can be done creatively so that they’re diverse and people have choice. So it’s not just something that’s served, and it’s not just mush.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program in San Francisco is run by Self-Help for the Elderly, a nearly 50-year old group that serves some 60 to 100 Chinese meals a day (suggested donation: $2.50) at each of 11 senior centers spread throughout the Bay Area. It’s one of a number of providers that the city’s Department of Aging and Adult Services has contracted with to serve solely cuisine targeting different ethnic populations, among them Centro Latino de San Francisco (serving Mexican and Central American meals), Kimochi in Japantown, and Russian American Community Services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish.jpeg\" alt=\"A pasta dish served as part of the CHAMPSS menu for seniors at Prince Cooking, a Hong Kong-style restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset district.\" width=\"512\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100261\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish.jpeg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish-400x600.jpeg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pasta dish served as part of the CHAMPSS menu for seniors at Prince Cooking, a Hong Kong-style restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset district. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We take a lot of effort to make sure people have meals that are culturally appropriate because we know that nutrition is really important,” Anne Hinton, executive director of San Francisco’s Department of Aging and Adult Services. “We know people in their 70s, 80s, and early 90s, who are used to eating certain types of food, are more likely to eat a meal they’re familiar with. As you get older, senses can dim. Taste buds can be not as sharp as when you’re younger. So familiar food will attract them to eat the food more than something less well known.” And the food is good, Hinton notes. “We get a lot of praise for all of our ethnic foods. Some people even travel all over the city to because they think the food is so good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hinton had been on the lookout for novel ways to operate programs in areas of the city where affordable properties for senior services are scarce but the need is great, like the Sunset District. “We only have one senior center in that area, run by Self-Help, and it already has two meal seatings,” Hinton noted. “The site cannot accommodate any more meal servings. We knew they would want to expand if they could, they just didn’t have the site. That just seemed like a great opportunity to do something different.” Then she heard about Kansas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first-ever CHAMPSS meal was served in 2008 at a Hy-Vee grocery store food court in Johnson County, Kansas, which contains many of Kansas City’s affluent suburbs. Like the Self-Help for the Elderly, Johnson County had watched the number of seniors at their congregate meal sites decline in recent years, despite a growing number of older adults. In fact, on a national basis, both congregate and home-delivered nutrition programs have been experiencing declines since 2010, for a variety of reasons. Johnson County managed to correctly pinpoint the source of its decline to limited dining hours and menu choices. The CHAMPSS in Kansas became a success, and the people behind the program gave presentations around the country to show how it could be done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Hinton, the Kansas program was a revelation. “They were using businesses to deliver programs,” she marveled. “Find a business that has a kitchen and make use of it in a neighborhood where you’re having trouble finding a kitchen yourself.” She was confident it would be perfect for the Sunset. “We didn’t have any reservations that people would go to the site. We were pretty clear that if we could establish a site like this, we would have more than enough customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest and most time-consuming part was finding a restaurant to partner with, according to Kelly Chew, Self-Help for the Elderly’s director of nutrition and senior centers, who visited about 60 eating establishments in the Sunset and the adjacent Richmond District over the better part of 2013 before signing on with S & E Café, already well-known among the Chinese American community. Chew and Ma both admit that the café sees very little profit, and may even operate at a loss, in the CHAMPSS partnership—the actual cost for each meal is around $10, Self-Help gives the café $7, and the rest is covered through Self-Help’s fundraising efforts and funds from the city’s Department of Aging and Adult Services. They highly praised S & E Café’s owner for his generosity and support of seniors and the community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following a kitchen remodel and meetings with Self-Help’s dietician to develop a menu, the first CHAMPSS meal was served in July 2014. Within a month, they had dished up 2,000 more meals. Today the restaurant sees around 50 CHAMPSS customers a day on average, and on some days up to 90 such customers, far exceeding expectations of 40 customers per day. The number of active CHAMPSS clients has ballooned from 200 in the first few months to about a thousand today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most are Chinese: “It’s been really well-received by seniors in the Chinese community,” Ma said proudly. Chew underscores that fact by saying that the vast majority pay the full $3.50 suggested donation—a testament to how much they appreciate the program. “They love the CHAMPSS program, that’s why they are willing to support it,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100263\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 510px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1.jpg\" alt=\"Prince Cooking is one of two San Francisco restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want.\" width=\"510\" height=\"340\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100263\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1.jpg 510w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prince Cooking is one of two San Francisco restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s more, seniors are clamoring for even more CHAMPSS restaurants, Chew says. Self-Help is continuing to seek out restaurants, perhaps at a sit-down–style restaurant instead of a café, and maybe at a place serving Asian fusion food. After all, eating one kind of cuisine all the time can get tiresome, even if it’s your own culture’s food. “The seniors tell me they’d like to try more, different cuisines,” Chew said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the Asian community itself, the Asian palate is very diverse: not all Asians want to eat Asian food. Those involved with the issue of culturally appropriate food acknowledge that it’s far more relevant to recently arrived immigrants than those who are very familiar with American food. Donna Yee’s Asian Community Center caters to a broad population around Sacramento and thus serves American food. But Yee says that’s precisely why a large number of Japanese American elders dine at her group’s sites. “They like coming to the site because we don’t serve Japanese food,” Yee said. “It’s one of the times of the week they eat American food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus sometimes culturally appropriate meals are not the most nutritious, points out Michael Tsang, project manager at Two Bridges Neighborhood Council in Manhattan’s Lower East Side. “While there is a general perception that Asian seniors eat a lot of fresh produce, the reality is that they often do not meet the recommended daily minimums for fresh fruits and vegetables,” Tsang said. A 2015 study of 3,000 of NYC’s of Chinese seniors found that 19 percent of respondents ate fruits and vegetables more than or equal to five times daily, and over 60 percent of respondents rated their health as fair or poor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He believes it isn’t too late to introduce seniors to new, healthier foods or cooking techniques. “We are trying to understand how daily meals are being prepared, how seniors respond to different foods, and how we can encourage seniors to try healthier alternatives or try something entirely different.” After a major local supermarket where most of Two Bridges’ senior residents bought groceries closed in 2013, the group has tried a number of ways to promote other options for shopping in the neighborhood, including producing a grocery guide and giving monthly walking tours of the many small markets in the area. For seniors who have trouble getting to shops, the group also partners with a CSA to deliver food boxes of up to 12 pounds of fresh, locally grown vegetables for $12 and has enlisted a chef to show seniors how less-familiar vegetables can be cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But ever-tighter funding and strict regulations are curbing more truly innovative ways to provide culturally appropriate meals for seniors. Funding for many senior nutrition programs has also been often meager and unreliable at best. “Oftentimes the money that is given to community-based organizations and kitchens to provide these meals are not enough even to meet the cost of preparing these meals,” said the National Asian Pacific Center on Aging’s Lum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Anyone doing a meal program has to do a significant amount of fundraising in addition to getting other kinds of steady money,” said Yee, who is a member of AARP’s Caregiving Advisory Panel. “There are as many ways nutrition programs are funded, in terms of what the payer mix, as there are programs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall for senior nutrition programs across the country, “an increase in funding would really go a long way,” Yee noted. “If money wasn’t an issue, I think the program would be substantially further ahead and it would really be a more exciting venture. And people would probably be getting better nutrition too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100259\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 510px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu.jpg\" alt=\"All meals on the CHAMPSS menu include a drink and a dessert of jello or fruit—all for only $3.50 suggested donation, including tax and tip.\" width=\"510\" height=\"340\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100259\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu.jpg 510w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All meals on the CHAMPSS menu include a drink and a dessert of jello or fruit—all for only $3.50 suggested donation, including tax and tip. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The regulations are just as constricting as the funding. All menus must be reviewed by a city or state agency, sometimes months in advance, to ensure meals are nutritious and balanced for seniors, rich in vitamins they need (vitamins D and B12 and calcium, for example) and low in the ingredients they don’t need (transfats, salt, and sugar, to name a few). The federal Older Americans Act requires that all meals served using OAA funds must adhere to the current \u003ca title=\"External link to Dietary Guidelines on Health.gov website\" href=\"http://www.health.gov/dietaryguidelines/\" target=\"_blank\">Dietary Guidelines for Americans (DGAs)\u003c/a>, provide a minimum of one-third of the \u003ca title=\"External link to Dietary Reference Intakes on the United States Department of Agriculture website\" href=\"http://fnic.nal.usda.gov/dietary-guidance/dietary-reference-intakes\" target=\"_blank\">Dietary Reference Intakes\u003c/a>, meet state and local food safety and sanitation requirements and be appealing to older adults. States also have their own rules. In California, for example, meals must be at least 300 calories, have milk or another source of calcium, be low in salt and sugar, and contain a certain proportion as protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The standardized rules that govern nutrition programs are extremely limiting, according to Yee. “On the one hand you could say that we barely ever see headlines that some senior has gotten sick because the food wasn’t safe to eat,” Yee said. “On the other hand I know that there are a lot of ways we err to the extreme. It’s pretty regulated. [Regulators] would say it’s pretty safe.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsang is also familiar with the “long and challenging” process of serving seniors tasty, cost-effective, nutritious meals. “There are certain food and diet standards that senior institutions must follow when preparing daily meals and menus, but sometimes these standards don’t quite match what seniors are used to eating culturally,” he said. “Additionally, most food programs are limited by budget, and often rely on bulk ordering shelf-stable foods to stay within that budget. The skills of kitchen staff, as well as the amount of time it takes to prepare fresh produce, is yet another challenge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program is not without its flaws. Joyce Chan, a 70-year-old resident of San Francisco’s Sunset District, has dined at both CHAMPSS restaurants some 10 times. Although she says she and her friends love the program and enjoy having a place to gather and socialize outside of the senior center, she strongly criticized the service CHAMPSS diners receive. “I don’t like the attitude sometimes,” she said. “They treat you like second class. They should treat all customers the same.” She claimed the restaurants direct CHAMPSS diners to sit in certain areas of the restaurant and have refused to provide to-go boxes for leftover food. “Don’t divide it like, ‘You are eating senior citizen meals so I don’t need to provide you good service.’ Why? Because I pay $3.50 and you treat me like that? That’s bad. I feel so irritated. I will go somewhere else.” But she acknowledged she often forgets her pledge to never return: “Old people forget things so easily.” (Chew said she has not received any complaints about the service and those practices were not part of the restaurants’ policy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yee also sounded skeptical about the CHAMPSS program. She questioned whether it was cost effective, noting that similar voucher programs have ended up proving more expensive than serving meals at a senior centers. But she acknowledged that any program that gives more choice to seniors about what they eat is remarkable. “It’s been a longtime challenge endemic to the senior nutrition program since it started in the 1970s. It’s wonderful that nutrition providers continue to innovate and improve on what they’re doing. It’s also no secret that, because of the uncertain funding, providers are constantly under the gun to meet price points that are more and more ridiculous every year. It’s always amazing when a provider is able to give individual choices on food items on any given day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wong, for one, is sure to keep going back to the CHAMPSS restaurants. But, as someone who’s lived in the United States for 50 years and has developed a taste for all types of cuisine, he has one tip for the organizers: “Think about getting some Mexican food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lisa Wong Macabasco\u003c/strong> is the assistant social media editor at Slate. A former editor in chief of Hyphen magazine, she has worked for Mother Jones, Modern Farmer, the San Francisco Bay Guardian, KoreAm, the Asian American Writers’ Workshop’s Open City magazine, and AsianWeek. Find her at \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lmacabasco\" target=\"_blank\">@lmacabasco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://macabasco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">macabasco.com\u003c/a>. She wrote this article through a Journalists in Aging Fellowship, a collaboration of New America Media and the Gerontological Society of America, with support from AARP.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A new San Francisco program serves Chinese seniors nutritional Chinese American favorites far from the senior center.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1441916503,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":3602},"headData":{"title":"Are Your Grandparents Being Served? | KQED","description":"A new San Francisco program serves Chinese seniors nutritional Chinese American favorites far from the senior center.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Are Your Grandparents Being Served?","datePublished":"2015-09-10T20:21:43.000Z","dateModified":"2015-09-10T20:21:43.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"100257 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=100257","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/10/are-your-grandparents-being-served/","disqusTitle":"Are Your Grandparents Being Served?","nprByline":"Lisa Wong Macabasco, Hyphen on \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/caamedia/\">CAAM\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/100257/are-your-grandparents-being-served","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>James Wong is a man of routine. Every morning, the 63-year-old resident of San Francisco’s Sunset District meets his friends for some tai-chi exercise. Then they decide where to eat lunch. It’s usually at one of three senior centers in the southwest corner of the city. There they can get a hot meal, perhaps even freshly cooked, for $2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently Wong and his crew have added a new element to their routine: dinner at S & E Café or Prince Cooking, two Hong Kong–style cafes in the Outer Sunset. These restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We go there, have a good time, gossip a little bit,” he said. His favorite menu item is fish with curry sauce over pasta. “It’s a good value for us, considering you usually pay $10 to $12 for a dish. Now it’s $3.50 for a dish, a drink, and a little dessert.” He’s a fan, and he knows what a well-run dining program should look like: he previously worked as a restaurant manager at a Mariott hotel in San Mateo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The program, called CHAMPSS (Choosing Healthy Appetizing Meal Plan Solutions for Seniors), is a step towards giving seniors more flexibility and choice beyond the two usual ways to get low-cost meals: congregate meals at senior centers or home-delivered meals. Both are limited in terms of menu variety (there’s usually only one meal option per day) and meal-time (diners must eat at set times for congregate meals, usually limited to an hour or 90 minutes). Plus, some seniors just don’t find the idea of a congregate meal at a senior center that appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of seniors now, especially the baby boomers, they don’t want to tell people they’re attending a senior center program,” said Josephine Ma, director of fund development at Self-Help for the Elderly, the San Francisco senior service agency that runs the program. With CHAMPSS, “they can just go to a restaurant any time they want and enjoy gathering and having fun with friends. That opens up the social life of the seniors. They love it. They can go whenever they want, and pick whatever they want from the menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100262\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking.jpeg\" alt=\"Outer Sunset resident David Lok eating lunch off the CHAMPSS Menu at Prince Cooking.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100262\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking.jpeg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-400x266.jpeg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking-960x639.jpeg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outer Sunset resident David Lok eating lunch off the CHAMPSS Menu at Prince Cooking. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At S & E Café, a Hong Kong-style diner on 19th Avenue near Taraval Street, diners can order from the 16-item CHAMPSS menu four days a week, anytime during the café’s hours, 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Another perk is that the CHAMPSS menu is heavy on Chinese American fare, ideal for the Sunset’s large Chinese American population; about half of the district’s residents are Asian American, and 99 percent of the CHAMPSS diners are as well. There’s wonton noodle soup, BBQ pork fried rice, fish fillet with bok choi over rice, braised tofu with bok choi and mushroom over rice, and the Hong Kong–style perennial favorite comfort food, baked rice dishes. The meals come with milk or calcium- and vitamin D–fortified orange juice, and fruit or Jello for dessert—all for a bargain suggested donation of $3.50, tax and tip included. (A second CHAMPSS dining establishment, Prince Cooking on Noriega Street near 21st Avenue, was added in June. The menu has a similar Asian and American bent: salmon pasta with Japanese gravy and seafood udon with vegetables, for example.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program is only the newest approach in a longstanding effort dating back to the 1970s, that aims for culturally appropriate, low-cost meals for an exponentially growing and increasingly diverse senior population. And the call to address this population is only getting stronger. The number of people age 65 and older is expected to double over the next 30 years. Today two in 10 elders are elders of color; by 2050 that number will double to over four in 10. Over the next four decades, AAPI elders will have the largest relative population growth among all elders. And diverse elders experience disproportionately higher poverty rates, according to a 2012 report by the Diverse Elders Coalition: nearly 10 percent of AAPI elders have incomes below the Federal Poverty Thresholds, compared to 9 percent of all American elders and 7 percent of non-Hispanic white elders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco in particular has seen an explosion of growth among Asian American seniors. Asian Pacific Islanders made up 27 percent of the city’s senior population in 1990; that jumped to 40 percent by 2008. During that time, the number of white seniors decreased by over 9,000, while Asian Pacific Islanders increased by almost 25,000. Today more than 60,000 API seniors live in San Francisco, and a third of those live below 150 percent of the Federal Poverty Line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Groups catering to this booming AAPI elder population today with culturally sensitive meals must navigate not only cuts in funding but also strict regulations on food preparation and nutrients. Yet ambitious and innovative new programs like CHAMPSS are attempting to serve this population—literally—with not only healthy, nutritious meals from their heritage but also with increased choice and flexibility about how and when they eat their meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The issue of culturally appropriate meals has been enduring challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s been an issue ever since communities of color and Jewish communities have complained about how the meal program doesn’t meet their needs,” said Donna L. Yee, CEO of the Asian Cultural Center in Sacramento. “There’s been an ongoing roil about how to make the program be more responsive to the seniors it serves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although a number of groups in California and New York have been serving culturally appropriate meals for the past 30 years, Wesley Lum, president and CEO of the National Asian Pacific Center on Aging, says that progress on the issue is uneven throughout the states. “To be frank, to have just tasty nutritional meals for seniors, that seniors want to eat, is a challenge, let alone something that is culturally or ethnically specific,” Lum said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Lum notes that he’s seen a push towards meals that can be tasty and nutritional. “Meals can be done creatively so that they’re diverse and people have choice. So it’s not just something that’s served, and it’s not just mush.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program in San Francisco is run by Self-Help for the Elderly, a nearly 50-year old group that serves some 60 to 100 Chinese meals a day (suggested donation: $2.50) at each of 11 senior centers spread throughout the Bay Area. It’s one of a number of providers that the city’s Department of Aging and Adult Services has contracted with to serve solely cuisine targeting different ethnic populations, among them Centro Latino de San Francisco (serving Mexican and Central American meals), Kimochi in Japantown, and Russian American Community Services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish.jpeg\" alt=\"A pasta dish served as part of the CHAMPSS menu for seniors at Prince Cooking, a Hong Kong-style restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset district.\" width=\"512\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100261\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish.jpeg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/pasta-dish-400x600.jpeg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pasta dish served as part of the CHAMPSS menu for seniors at Prince Cooking, a Hong Kong-style restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset district. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We take a lot of effort to make sure people have meals that are culturally appropriate because we know that nutrition is really important,” Anne Hinton, executive director of San Francisco’s Department of Aging and Adult Services. “We know people in their 70s, 80s, and early 90s, who are used to eating certain types of food, are more likely to eat a meal they’re familiar with. As you get older, senses can dim. Taste buds can be not as sharp as when you’re younger. So familiar food will attract them to eat the food more than something less well known.” And the food is good, Hinton notes. “We get a lot of praise for all of our ethnic foods. Some people even travel all over the city to because they think the food is so good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hinton had been on the lookout for novel ways to operate programs in areas of the city where affordable properties for senior services are scarce but the need is great, like the Sunset District. “We only have one senior center in that area, run by Self-Help, and it already has two meal seatings,” Hinton noted. “The site cannot accommodate any more meal servings. We knew they would want to expand if they could, they just didn’t have the site. That just seemed like a great opportunity to do something different.” Then she heard about Kansas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first-ever CHAMPSS meal was served in 2008 at a Hy-Vee grocery store food court in Johnson County, Kansas, which contains many of Kansas City’s affluent suburbs. Like the Self-Help for the Elderly, Johnson County had watched the number of seniors at their congregate meal sites decline in recent years, despite a growing number of older adults. In fact, on a national basis, both congregate and home-delivered nutrition programs have been experiencing declines since 2010, for a variety of reasons. Johnson County managed to correctly pinpoint the source of its decline to limited dining hours and menu choices. The CHAMPSS in Kansas became a success, and the people behind the program gave presentations around the country to show how it could be done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Hinton, the Kansas program was a revelation. “They were using businesses to deliver programs,” she marveled. “Find a business that has a kitchen and make use of it in a neighborhood where you’re having trouble finding a kitchen yourself.” She was confident it would be perfect for the Sunset. “We didn’t have any reservations that people would go to the site. We were pretty clear that if we could establish a site like this, we would have more than enough customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest and most time-consuming part was finding a restaurant to partner with, according to Kelly Chew, Self-Help for the Elderly’s director of nutrition and senior centers, who visited about 60 eating establishments in the Sunset and the adjacent Richmond District over the better part of 2013 before signing on with S & E Café, already well-known among the Chinese American community. Chew and Ma both admit that the café sees very little profit, and may even operate at a loss, in the CHAMPSS partnership—the actual cost for each meal is around $10, Self-Help gives the café $7, and the rest is covered through Self-Help’s fundraising efforts and funds from the city’s Department of Aging and Adult Services. They highly praised S & E Café’s owner for his generosity and support of seniors and the community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following a kitchen remodel and meetings with Self-Help’s dietician to develop a menu, the first CHAMPSS meal was served in July 2014. Within a month, they had dished up 2,000 more meals. Today the restaurant sees around 50 CHAMPSS customers a day on average, and on some days up to 90 such customers, far exceeding expectations of 40 customers per day. The number of active CHAMPSS clients has ballooned from 200 in the first few months to about a thousand today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most are Chinese: “It’s been really well-received by seniors in the Chinese community,” Ma said proudly. Chew underscores that fact by saying that the vast majority pay the full $3.50 suggested donation—a testament to how much they appreciate the program. “They love the CHAMPSS program, that’s why they are willing to support it,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100263\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 510px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1.jpg\" alt=\"Prince Cooking is one of two San Francisco restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want.\" width=\"510\" height=\"340\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100263\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1.jpg 510w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/prince-cooking1-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prince Cooking is one of two San Francisco restaurants that are part of an innovative new program that allows seniors to choose from a special menu of healthy Chinese American favorites and dine with friends and family whenever they want. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s more, seniors are clamoring for even more CHAMPSS restaurants, Chew says. Self-Help is continuing to seek out restaurants, perhaps at a sit-down–style restaurant instead of a café, and maybe at a place serving Asian fusion food. After all, eating one kind of cuisine all the time can get tiresome, even if it’s your own culture’s food. “The seniors tell me they’d like to try more, different cuisines,” Chew said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the Asian community itself, the Asian palate is very diverse: not all Asians want to eat Asian food. Those involved with the issue of culturally appropriate food acknowledge that it’s far more relevant to recently arrived immigrants than those who are very familiar with American food. Donna Yee’s Asian Community Center caters to a broad population around Sacramento and thus serves American food. But Yee says that’s precisely why a large number of Japanese American elders dine at her group’s sites. “They like coming to the site because we don’t serve Japanese food,” Yee said. “It’s one of the times of the week they eat American food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus sometimes culturally appropriate meals are not the most nutritious, points out Michael Tsang, project manager at Two Bridges Neighborhood Council in Manhattan’s Lower East Side. “While there is a general perception that Asian seniors eat a lot of fresh produce, the reality is that they often do not meet the recommended daily minimums for fresh fruits and vegetables,” Tsang said. A 2015 study of 3,000 of NYC’s of Chinese seniors found that 19 percent of respondents ate fruits and vegetables more than or equal to five times daily, and over 60 percent of respondents rated their health as fair or poor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He believes it isn’t too late to introduce seniors to new, healthier foods or cooking techniques. “We are trying to understand how daily meals are being prepared, how seniors respond to different foods, and how we can encourage seniors to try healthier alternatives or try something entirely different.” After a major local supermarket where most of Two Bridges’ senior residents bought groceries closed in 2013, the group has tried a number of ways to promote other options for shopping in the neighborhood, including producing a grocery guide and giving monthly walking tours of the many small markets in the area. For seniors who have trouble getting to shops, the group also partners with a CSA to deliver food boxes of up to 12 pounds of fresh, locally grown vegetables for $12 and has enlisted a chef to show seniors how less-familiar vegetables can be cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But ever-tighter funding and strict regulations are curbing more truly innovative ways to provide culturally appropriate meals for seniors. Funding for many senior nutrition programs has also been often meager and unreliable at best. “Oftentimes the money that is given to community-based organizations and kitchens to provide these meals are not enough even to meet the cost of preparing these meals,” said the National Asian Pacific Center on Aging’s Lum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Anyone doing a meal program has to do a significant amount of fundraising in addition to getting other kinds of steady money,” said Yee, who is a member of AARP’s Caregiving Advisory Panel. “There are as many ways nutrition programs are funded, in terms of what the payer mix, as there are programs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall for senior nutrition programs across the country, “an increase in funding would really go a long way,” Yee noted. “If money wasn’t an issue, I think the program would be substantially further ahead and it would really be a more exciting venture. And people would probably be getting better nutrition too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100259\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 510px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu.jpg\" alt=\"All meals on the CHAMPSS menu include a drink and a dessert of jello or fruit—all for only $3.50 suggested donation, including tax and tip.\" width=\"510\" height=\"340\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100259\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu.jpg 510w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/CHAMPSS-menu-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All meals on the CHAMPSS menu include a drink and a dessert of jello or fruit—all for only $3.50 suggested donation, including tax and tip. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The regulations are just as constricting as the funding. All menus must be reviewed by a city or state agency, sometimes months in advance, to ensure meals are nutritious and balanced for seniors, rich in vitamins they need (vitamins D and B12 and calcium, for example) and low in the ingredients they don’t need (transfats, salt, and sugar, to name a few). The federal Older Americans Act requires that all meals served using OAA funds must adhere to the current \u003ca title=\"External link to Dietary Guidelines on Health.gov website\" href=\"http://www.health.gov/dietaryguidelines/\" target=\"_blank\">Dietary Guidelines for Americans (DGAs)\u003c/a>, provide a minimum of one-third of the \u003ca title=\"External link to Dietary Reference Intakes on the United States Department of Agriculture website\" href=\"http://fnic.nal.usda.gov/dietary-guidance/dietary-reference-intakes\" target=\"_blank\">Dietary Reference Intakes\u003c/a>, meet state and local food safety and sanitation requirements and be appealing to older adults. States also have their own rules. In California, for example, meals must be at least 300 calories, have milk or another source of calcium, be low in salt and sugar, and contain a certain proportion as protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The standardized rules that govern nutrition programs are extremely limiting, according to Yee. “On the one hand you could say that we barely ever see headlines that some senior has gotten sick because the food wasn’t safe to eat,” Yee said. “On the other hand I know that there are a lot of ways we err to the extreme. It’s pretty regulated. [Regulators] would say it’s pretty safe.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsang is also familiar with the “long and challenging” process of serving seniors tasty, cost-effective, nutritious meals. “There are certain food and diet standards that senior institutions must follow when preparing daily meals and menus, but sometimes these standards don’t quite match what seniors are used to eating culturally,” he said. “Additionally, most food programs are limited by budget, and often rely on bulk ordering shelf-stable foods to stay within that budget. The skills of kitchen staff, as well as the amount of time it takes to prepare fresh produce, is yet another challenge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CHAMPSS program is not without its flaws. Joyce Chan, a 70-year-old resident of San Francisco’s Sunset District, has dined at both CHAMPSS restaurants some 10 times. Although she says she and her friends love the program and enjoy having a place to gather and socialize outside of the senior center, she strongly criticized the service CHAMPSS diners receive. “I don’t like the attitude sometimes,” she said. “They treat you like second class. They should treat all customers the same.” She claimed the restaurants direct CHAMPSS diners to sit in certain areas of the restaurant and have refused to provide to-go boxes for leftover food. “Don’t divide it like, ‘You are eating senior citizen meals so I don’t need to provide you good service.’ Why? Because I pay $3.50 and you treat me like that? That’s bad. I feel so irritated. I will go somewhere else.” But she acknowledged she often forgets her pledge to never return: “Old people forget things so easily.” (Chew said she has not received any complaints about the service and those practices were not part of the restaurants’ policy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yee also sounded skeptical about the CHAMPSS program. She questioned whether it was cost effective, noting that similar voucher programs have ended up proving more expensive than serving meals at a senior centers. But she acknowledged that any program that gives more choice to seniors about what they eat is remarkable. “It’s been a longtime challenge endemic to the senior nutrition program since it started in the 1970s. It’s wonderful that nutrition providers continue to innovate and improve on what they’re doing. It’s also no secret that, because of the uncertain funding, providers are constantly under the gun to meet price points that are more and more ridiculous every year. It’s always amazing when a provider is able to give individual choices on food items on any given day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wong, for one, is sure to keep going back to the CHAMPSS restaurants. But, as someone who’s lived in the United States for 50 years and has developed a taste for all types of cuisine, he has one tip for the organizers: “Think about getting some Mexican food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lisa Wong Macabasco\u003c/strong> is the assistant social media editor at Slate. A former editor in chief of Hyphen magazine, she has worked for Mother Jones, Modern Farmer, the San Francisco Bay Guardian, KoreAm, the Asian American Writers’ Workshop’s Open City magazine, and AsianWeek. Find her at \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lmacabasco\" target=\"_blank\">@lmacabasco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://macabasco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">macabasco.com\u003c/a>. She wrote this article through a Journalists in Aging Fellowship, a collaboration of New America Media and the Gerontological Society of America, with support from AARP.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/100257/are-your-grandparents-being-served","authors":["byline_bayareabites_100257"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_3032","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_14807","bayareabites_475","bayareabites_14808","bayareabites_13702"],"featImg":"bayareabites_100260","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_96928":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_96928","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"96928","score":null,"sort":[1434561854000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"dim-sum-delights-in-their-hong-kong-homeland","title":"Dim Sum Delights in their Hong Kong Homeland","publishDate":1434561854,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97020\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920.jpg\" alt=\"Golden scallops with pear, shrimp and ham, Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Golden scallops with pear, shrimp and ham, Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I’m awaiting the last course of a sublime dim sum luncheon in one of Hong Kong's most elegant hotels. The menu lists a classic dessert, chilled mango custard. But suddenly, waiters appear and set down large covered glass bell jars, whose contents are shrouded by mysterious swirling clouds. As they whip off the lids with a flourish, huge geysers of white steam erupt a few feet into the air in several directions. Thanks to the dry ice underneath the bowls of mango cream, this dramatic display is the finale for \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/dining/yan_toh_heen.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yan Toh Heen\u003c/a>’s succession of exquisite dim sum, served on solid jade place settings, at a table with a sweeping view of Victoria Harbor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen.jpg\" alt=\"Mango dessert and lobster dumpling and broth, Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"538\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97031\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-400x215.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-800x430.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-960x516.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mango dessert and lobster dumpling and broth, Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic, yet Innovative Dim Sum at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/dining/yan_toh_heen.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yan Toh Heen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let me back up a little. I’m in Hong Kong for a week and have discovered to my delight that this vibrant metropolis is not only the birthplace of modern dim sum but also the hub of its evolving innovation. I set a goal to visit a range of dim sum spots and enjoy one of my favorite rituals--selecting eye-appealing tidbits from roving carts--knowing that I can only make the barest dent in a city that boasts scores of dim sum superstars (several of whom have won Michelin stars).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of these is executive \u003ca href=\"http://foodnchef.com/chefs/lau-yiu-fai-michelin-starred-executive-chef-at-%E6%AC%A3%E5%9C%96%E8%BB%92-yan-toh-heen/\" target=\"_blank\">Chef Lau Yiu Fai\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com\" target=\"_blank\">Intercontinental Hotel\u003c/a>; his restaurant, Yan Toh Heen, was awarded two Michelin Stars. After one bite of his first course, a crispy lobster dumpling, paired with a deeply-flavored supreme broth, it was clear I was in for a masterful meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Assorted dim sum delicacies at Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"441\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-400x176.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-800x353.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-960x423.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assorted dim sum delicacies at Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In an interview before lunch*, Chef Lau, 55, who started working in kitchens when he was 14 to help support his large family, told me that when he was a young apprentice,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The master chef was very strict and seldom taught us anything. You just had to figure it out on your own. Now it’s totally different and we do teach our apprentices. There are 20 chefs who work with me and I’m friendly with them. Of course, they have to begin with the basics, like \u003cem>shu mai\u003c/em> and \u003cem>har gow\u003c/em>. It may be boring, but people still request those traditional dishes, so you need to master them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Personally, Chef Lau enjoys creating contemporary Cantonese dim sum with the finest imported ingredients, such as French quail, Alaskan crab and Tasmanian scallops, which he fashions into miniature artistic creations that allow the flavors of each element to shine. He cherishes the thousands of years of dim sum tradition, because he says, “it is an enduring symbol of family togetherness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97022\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Long Cha Tea House (vegetarian) in Hong Kong Park next to Flagstaff Museum of Tea Ware.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"658\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-400x263.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-800x526.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-960x632.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Long Cha Tea House (vegetarian) in Hong Kong Park next to Flagstaff Museum of Tea Ware. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Dim Sum in a Charming Setting at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lockcha.com/teahouse/?lang=eng\" target=\"_blank\">Long Cha Tea House\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A happy accident brought me to my next dim sum restaurant, while visiting Hong Kong Park for a bit of greenery to offset the overwhelming forest of shiny skyscrapers that dominate the skyline. After exploring a \u003ca href=\"http://hk.art.museum/en_US/web/ma/home.html\" target=\"_blank\">museum devoted to tea ware\u003c/a>, I discovered a quaint tea room in the neighboring building. The menu featured more than 100 teas and an all-vegetarian array of dim sum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To offset the humid weather, I ordered white peony tea, a cooling winter melon roll and a cold salad of organic black and snow fungus with mushrooms. But I couldn't resist a warm and wonderful dessert: dumplings filled with black sesame seed paste in sweet syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97026\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls.jpg\" alt=\"Lei Garden’s crystal skin dumplings and lacy taro balls.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"490\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97026\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-400x196.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-800x392.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-960x470.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lei Garden’s crystal skin dumplings and lacy taro balls. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finely Crafted Dim Sum at Elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.leigarden.hk/en/branches/branch.php?cid=1\" target=\"_blank\">Lei Gardens\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another morning, I searched for a dim sum restaurant to take my husband to on the only free day he had during his week of teaching. With the help of \u003ca href=\"http://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/restaurant/index.htm?con=navi\" target=\"_blank\">Open Rice\u003c/a> (the Hong Kong equivalent of a Foodie Yelp) I found one near our hotel in the bustling Wan Chai neighborhood, but I was a little hesitant since it seemed to be part of a chain, with other locations scattered throughout Hong Kong, Mainland China, Singapore, and Macau. I needn't have worried. Lei Gardens' dining room was packed with locals and the food was fresh, hot and tasty. Our delicate chicken and chive dumplings were wrapped in translucent skins and the petite taro puffs almost burned our mouths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it struck me that in these three restaurants I had not yet glimpsed the familiar carts stacked with bamboo steamer baskets that roamed my favorite Bay Area dim sum spots: San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yank Sing\u003c/a>, Alameda's \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean\u003c/a> or Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://peony388.com\" target=\"_blank\">Peony\u003c/a>. In Hong Kong, one ordered by checking off a paper menu. I wondered if this was a hallmark of Hong Kong dim sum culture and endeavored to find out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920.jpg\" alt=\"Piping hot pork and shrimp dumplings at Dim Sum Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1322\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-400x275.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-800x551.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-1440x992.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-1180x812.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-960x661.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piping hot pork and shrimp dumplings at Dim Sum Square. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dim Sum Favorites with a Dash of History at \u003ca href=\"http://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/restaurant/sheung-wan-dim-sum-square/43811\" target=\"_blank\">Dim Sum Square\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in the week, I joined an \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkongfoodietours.com/tours/central-sheung-wan-foodie-tour/\" target=\"_blank\">excellent food tour\u003c/a>* which meandered through the Central and Sheung Wan Districts, and included tastes at six family-run food or drink establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a cozy corner cafe in an artsy district, over pork and shrimp dumplings and baked BBQ pork buns with distinctive toasted tops, our knowledgeable guide shared the history of dim sum and eventually revealed the reasons none of the places I visited featured those familiar roving carts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dim sum, also known as \u003cem>yum cha\u003c/em> (literally to 'drink tea') probably originated thousands of years ago, in the teahouses that sprang up along China's Silk Road as rest stops for weary travelers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our guide pointed to the black and white poster on the wall, explaining that it depicted typical Hong Kong dim sum in the last century. Men would frequent modest teahouses to read the newspaper, while enjoying a few snacks with their tea. The line of hanging bird cages above the restaurant booths was connected to a long tradition of men caring for pet birds, which included taking them for daily outings. (The Avian Flu outbreak in 1997 likely shut the door on bringing birdcages into eating establishments.) And teahouses competed for clients by adding more innovative food choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97025\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Traditional yum cha spot for tea, snacks and bringing your bird for an outing. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1414\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-400x295.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-800x589.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-1440x1061.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-1180x869.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-960x707.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional yum cha spot for tea, snacks and bringing your bird for an outing. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As for the missing trolley carts, our guide explained that since space is at a premium and rent high on Hong Kong island, it is better for small restaurants to squeeze in more tables than to leave wide aisles to accommodate the carts. But more important to diners is the food's freshness. Dumplings that sit in steamer baskets become overcooked and soggy. Cantonese cooking also values serving food piping hot. (Ah, that explained the reason I saw a waiter at Lei Gardens prepare soup over a large flame in the dining room, right next to the diners who ordered it, so that he could deliver the steaming bowls to their table in seconds.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My tour guide also described the goal that all dim sum should achieve: a semi-transparent dumpling wrapper called \"crystal skin,\" in essence, a delicate cloud that delivers the savory contents to your mouth. This is an ideal by which Hong Kong dim sum is often judged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fanciful and Classic Dim Sum with a View at \u003ca href=\"http://www.maximschinese.com.hk/eng/restaurant/outlet_facts.aspx?sId=30\" target=\"_blank\">Serenade\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920.jpg\" alt=\"No need to ask what’s inside these dumplings at Serenade (it’s a fish called garoupa). \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1299\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97027\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-400x271.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-800x541.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-1440x974.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-1180x798.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-960x650.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No need to ask what’s inside these dumplings at Serenade (it’s a fish called garoupa). \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last day in Hong Kong, a new friend invited me for a farewell dim sum meal at Serenade, a lovely restaurant in the Hong Kong Cultural Center. Serenade not only boasted a harbor view, but cute dim sum as well -- in the shape of bunnies, goldfish, hedgehogs and squid. The restaurant's more traditional dishes again featured dumplings with translucent skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun.jpg\" alt=\"Serenade’s shrimp and chive dumpling and pan-fried pork buns. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97028\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-400x200.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-800x400.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-960x480.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serenade’s shrimp and chive dumpling and pan-fried pork buns. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back home, just as I was starting to miss Hong Kong's innovative dim sum, with its parade of culinary surprises, I received a copy of Michael Bauer's \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/top-100-2015/article/Hong-Kong-Lounge-II-6206977.php\" target=\"_blank\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants 2015\u003c/a>. As soon as I read about \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkonglounge2.com/menu-1/\" target=\"_blank\">Hong Kong Lounge II\u003c/a>, I grabbed my husband and we rushed to the cozy space on Geary Boulevard and our taste buds were transported. No carts, but fresh, hot dumplings, stuffed eggplant and those delectable baked pork buns with the toasted tops that I had fallen in love with. We had found the next best thing to sitting at a table with a harbor view in enchanting Hong Kong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(*Thanks to the Hong Kong Tourism Board)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Dim sum in its homeland, Hong Kong, is flourishing in a culinary balancing act of tradition and innovation. Every day, cozy family-run spots, all-vegetarian teahouses and elegant dining rooms create over a hundred varieties of steamed dumplings, baked buns, and deep-fried delicacies. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1434647350,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1597},"headData":{"title":"Dim Sum Delights in their Hong Kong Homeland | KQED","description":"Dim sum in its homeland, Hong Kong, is flourishing in a culinary balancing act of tradition and innovation. Every day, cozy family-run spots, all-vegetarian teahouses and elegant dining rooms create over a hundred varieties of steamed dumplings, baked buns, and deep-fried delicacies. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Dim Sum Delights in their Hong Kong Homeland","datePublished":"2015-06-17T17:24:14.000Z","dateModified":"2015-06-18T17:09:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"96928 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=96928","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/06/17/dim-sum-delights-in-their-hong-kong-homeland/","disqusTitle":"Dim Sum Delights in their Hong Kong Homeland","path":"/bayareabites/96928/dim-sum-delights-in-their-hong-kong-homeland","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97020\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920.jpg\" alt=\"Golden scallops with pear, shrimp and ham, Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/1-Yan-Toh-Heen-scallops-with-pear1920-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Golden scallops with pear, shrimp and ham, Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I’m awaiting the last course of a sublime dim sum luncheon in one of Hong Kong's most elegant hotels. The menu lists a classic dessert, chilled mango custard. But suddenly, waiters appear and set down large covered glass bell jars, whose contents are shrouded by mysterious swirling clouds. As they whip off the lids with a flourish, huge geysers of white steam erupt a few feet into the air in several directions. Thanks to the dry ice underneath the bowls of mango cream, this dramatic display is the finale for \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/dining/yan_toh_heen.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yan Toh Heen\u003c/a>’s succession of exquisite dim sum, served on solid jade place settings, at a table with a sweeping view of Victoria Harbor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen.jpg\" alt=\"Mango dessert and lobster dumpling and broth, Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"538\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97031\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-400x215.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-800x430.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/2-Mango-dessert-lobster-dumpling-and-broth-Yan-Toh-Heen-960x516.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mango dessert and lobster dumpling and broth, Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic, yet Innovative Dim Sum at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/dining/yan_toh_heen.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yan Toh Heen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let me back up a little. I’m in Hong Kong for a week and have discovered to my delight that this vibrant metropolis is not only the birthplace of modern dim sum but also the hub of its evolving innovation. I set a goal to visit a range of dim sum spots and enjoy one of my favorite rituals--selecting eye-appealing tidbits from roving carts--knowing that I can only make the barest dent in a city that boasts scores of dim sum superstars (several of whom have won Michelin stars).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of these is executive \u003ca href=\"http://foodnchef.com/chefs/lau-yiu-fai-michelin-starred-executive-chef-at-%E6%AC%A3%E5%9C%96%E8%BB%92-yan-toh-heen/\" target=\"_blank\">Chef Lau Yiu Fai\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com\" target=\"_blank\">Intercontinental Hotel\u003c/a>; his restaurant, Yan Toh Heen, was awarded two Michelin Stars. After one bite of his first course, a crispy lobster dumpling, paired with a deeply-flavored supreme broth, it was clear I was in for a masterful meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Assorted dim sum delicacies at Yan Toh Heen.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"441\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-400x176.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-800x353.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/3-YTH-dim-sum-Collage-960x423.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assorted dim sum delicacies at Yan Toh Heen. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In an interview before lunch*, Chef Lau, 55, who started working in kitchens when he was 14 to help support his large family, told me that when he was a young apprentice,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The master chef was very strict and seldom taught us anything. You just had to figure it out on your own. Now it’s totally different and we do teach our apprentices. There are 20 chefs who work with me and I’m friendly with them. Of course, they have to begin with the basics, like \u003cem>shu mai\u003c/em> and \u003cem>har gow\u003c/em>. It may be boring, but people still request those traditional dishes, so you need to master them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Personally, Chef Lau enjoys creating contemporary Cantonese dim sum with the finest imported ingredients, such as French quail, Alaskan crab and Tasmanian scallops, which he fashions into miniature artistic creations that allow the flavors of each element to shine. He cherishes the thousands of years of dim sum tradition, because he says, “it is an enduring symbol of family togetherness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97022\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Long Cha Tea House (vegetarian) in Hong Kong Park next to Flagstaff Museum of Tea Ware.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"658\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-400x263.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-800x526.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/4-Tea-museum-veg-teahouse-Collage-960x632.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Long Cha Tea House (vegetarian) in Hong Kong Park next to Flagstaff Museum of Tea Ware. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Dim Sum in a Charming Setting at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lockcha.com/teahouse/?lang=eng\" target=\"_blank\">Long Cha Tea House\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A happy accident brought me to my next dim sum restaurant, while visiting Hong Kong Park for a bit of greenery to offset the overwhelming forest of shiny skyscrapers that dominate the skyline. After exploring a \u003ca href=\"http://hk.art.museum/en_US/web/ma/home.html\" target=\"_blank\">museum devoted to tea ware\u003c/a>, I discovered a quaint tea room in the neighboring building. The menu featured more than 100 teas and an all-vegetarian array of dim sum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To offset the humid weather, I ordered white peony tea, a cooling winter melon roll and a cold salad of organic black and snow fungus with mushrooms. But I couldn't resist a warm and wonderful dessert: dumplings filled with black sesame seed paste in sweet syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97026\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls.jpg\" alt=\"Lei Garden’s crystal skin dumplings and lacy taro balls.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"490\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97026\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-400x196.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-800x392.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/7-Lei-garden-dumpling-and-taro-balls-960x470.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lei Garden’s crystal skin dumplings and lacy taro balls. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finely Crafted Dim Sum at Elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.leigarden.hk/en/branches/branch.php?cid=1\" target=\"_blank\">Lei Gardens\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another morning, I searched for a dim sum restaurant to take my husband to on the only free day he had during his week of teaching. With the help of \u003ca href=\"http://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/restaurant/index.htm?con=navi\" target=\"_blank\">Open Rice\u003c/a> (the Hong Kong equivalent of a Foodie Yelp) I found one near our hotel in the bustling Wan Chai neighborhood, but I was a little hesitant since it seemed to be part of a chain, with other locations scattered throughout Hong Kong, Mainland China, Singapore, and Macau. I needn't have worried. Lei Gardens' dining room was packed with locals and the food was fresh, hot and tasty. Our delicate chicken and chive dumplings were wrapped in translucent skins and the petite taro puffs almost burned our mouths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it struck me that in these three restaurants I had not yet glimpsed the familiar carts stacked with bamboo steamer baskets that roamed my favorite Bay Area dim sum spots: San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yank Sing\u003c/a>, Alameda's \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean\u003c/a> or Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://peony388.com\" target=\"_blank\">Peony\u003c/a>. In Hong Kong, one ordered by checking off a paper menu. I wondered if this was a hallmark of Hong Kong dim sum culture and endeavored to find out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920.jpg\" alt=\"Piping hot pork and shrimp dumplings at Dim Sum Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1322\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-400x275.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-800x551.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-1440x992.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-1180x812.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/5-square-pork-dumplings1920-960x661.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piping hot pork and shrimp dumplings at Dim Sum Square. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dim Sum Favorites with a Dash of History at \u003ca href=\"http://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/restaurant/sheung-wan-dim-sum-square/43811\" target=\"_blank\">Dim Sum Square\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in the week, I joined an \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkongfoodietours.com/tours/central-sheung-wan-foodie-tour/\" target=\"_blank\">excellent food tour\u003c/a>* which meandered through the Central and Sheung Wan Districts, and included tastes at six family-run food or drink establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a cozy corner cafe in an artsy district, over pork and shrimp dumplings and baked BBQ pork buns with distinctive toasted tops, our knowledgeable guide shared the history of dim sum and eventually revealed the reasons none of the places I visited featured those familiar roving carts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dim sum, also known as \u003cem>yum cha\u003c/em> (literally to 'drink tea') probably originated thousands of years ago, in the teahouses that sprang up along China's Silk Road as rest stops for weary travelers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our guide pointed to the black and white poster on the wall, explaining that it depicted typical Hong Kong dim sum in the last century. Men would frequent modest teahouses to read the newspaper, while enjoying a few snacks with their tea. The line of hanging bird cages above the restaurant booths was connected to a long tradition of men caring for pet birds, which included taking them for daily outings. (The Avian Flu outbreak in 1997 likely shut the door on bringing birdcages into eating establishments.) And teahouses competed for clients by adding more innovative food choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97025\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Traditional yum cha spot for tea, snacks and bringing your bird for an outing. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1414\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-400x295.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-800x589.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-1440x1061.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-1180x869.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/6B-original-old-ds-cafe-1920-960x707.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional yum cha spot for tea, snacks and bringing your bird for an outing. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As for the missing trolley carts, our guide explained that since space is at a premium and rent high on Hong Kong island, it is better for small restaurants to squeeze in more tables than to leave wide aisles to accommodate the carts. But more important to diners is the food's freshness. Dumplings that sit in steamer baskets become overcooked and soggy. Cantonese cooking also values serving food piping hot. (Ah, that explained the reason I saw a waiter at Lei Gardens prepare soup over a large flame in the dining room, right next to the diners who ordered it, so that he could deliver the steaming bowls to their table in seconds.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My tour guide also described the goal that all dim sum should achieve: a semi-transparent dumpling wrapper called \"crystal skin,\" in essence, a delicate cloud that delivers the savory contents to your mouth. This is an ideal by which Hong Kong dim sum is often judged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fanciful and Classic Dim Sum with a View at \u003ca href=\"http://www.maximschinese.com.hk/eng/restaurant/outlet_facts.aspx?sId=30\" target=\"_blank\">Serenade\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920.jpg\" alt=\"No need to ask what’s inside these dumplings at Serenade (it’s a fish called garoupa). \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1299\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97027\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-400x271.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-800x541.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-1440x974.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-1180x798.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/8-Serenade-fish-dumplings1920-960x650.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No need to ask what’s inside these dumplings at Serenade (it’s a fish called garoupa). \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last day in Hong Kong, a new friend invited me for a farewell dim sum meal at Serenade, a lovely restaurant in the Hong Kong Cultural Center. Serenade not only boasted a harbor view, but cute dim sum as well -- in the shape of bunnies, goldfish, hedgehogs and squid. The restaurant's more traditional dishes again featured dumplings with translucent skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun.jpg\" alt=\"Serenade’s shrimp and chive dumpling and pan-fried pork buns. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97028\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-400x200.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-800x400.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/9-Seranade-shrimp-and-chive-dumpling-pan-fried-pork-bun-960x480.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serenade’s shrimp and chive dumpling and pan-fried pork buns. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back home, just as I was starting to miss Hong Kong's innovative dim sum, with its parade of culinary surprises, I received a copy of Michael Bauer's \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/top-100-2015/article/Hong-Kong-Lounge-II-6206977.php\" target=\"_blank\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants 2015\u003c/a>. As soon as I read about \u003ca href=\"http://www.hongkonglounge2.com/menu-1/\" target=\"_blank\">Hong Kong Lounge II\u003c/a>, I grabbed my husband and we rushed to the cozy space on Geary Boulevard and our taste buds were transported. No carts, but fresh, hot dumplings, stuffed eggplant and those delectable baked pork buns with the toasted tops that I had fallen in love with. We had found the next best thing to sitting at a table with a harbor view in enchanting Hong Kong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(*Thanks to the Hong Kong Tourism Board)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/96928/dim-sum-delights-in-their-hong-kong-homeland","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_475","bayareabites_2232","bayareabites_1362"],"featImg":"bayareabites_97028","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. 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