Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen
No Bandwiches Here: Charles Phan opens South Restaurant at SFJAZZ
KQED's Forum: Charles Phan on Home Cooking
An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of "Vietnamese Home Cooking"
Chef Alicia Jenish’s Misfit Dinners, Mentors and Bay Area Food Favorites
Restaurant Openings in 2009
Sponsored
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NOSH is produced by \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, Berkeley’s locally grown, independent news website.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"ebnosh","facebook":"ebnosh","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Berkeleyside NOSH | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/81dfb429e31c636d536dc580cea21903?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/berkeleysidenosh"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_93907":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_93907","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"93907","score":null,"sort":[1426378372000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley","title":"Charles Phan Plans to Open Café at UC Berkeley","publishDate":1426378372,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan photographed in 2008: the famous restaurateur hopes to open a café on the UC Berkeley campus. Photo: Jennifer Yin\" width=\"720\" height=\"544\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93909\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544-400x302.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544-320x242.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan photographed in 2008: the famous restaurateur hopes to open a café on the UC Berkeley campus. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/bittermelon/2888234925/in/photolist-5pik8d-5piefN-5pio1q-5pijgY-5pic6f-5pdVjB-5pioBC-5pe4ce-5pikys-5pe2gR-5piq3S-5pideq-5pikYj-5pe4Nx-5pe2vz-5pifzm-5pdWsF-5pdXoa-5pdXBT-5pdWB4-5pdVYT-5pioJj-5pip91-5pe9ze-5picof-5pigcG-5pibdN-5pe97k-5pifFf-5pinVq-5pdZjc-5pdXbz-5pif4E-5pe616-5pe2C4-5pij9L-5pe46V-5pibLW-5pdY6V-5pe6hK-5pig7f-5pijyU-5pifK1-5pidm1-5pdYJH-5pe5vc-5pe4pz-5pdXfa-5piiPs-5pdYu2\" target=\"_blank\">Jennifer Yin\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Berkeleyside Editors, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2015/03/13/charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeleyside NOSH\u003c/a> (3/13/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Charles Phan was an architecture student at UC Berkeley, he spent a lot of time in Wurster Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan left Cal before he graduated, but he is about, once again, to spend time at Wurster, as he is planning to take over the café there in the fall serving his trademark organic, international food. It will be the famous chef’s first venture in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I am 99%, not 100% sure,” Phan said about the opening. Describing his vision for the space, he said: “You walk up, you get some food. It’s affordable, it’s fast. My goal is to take care of the students.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Lalanne, the vice-chancellor of real estate at UC Berkeley, approached Phan many months ago about serving food at UC Berkeley. Phan is best known for the critically acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Slanted Door restaurant\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Talks are ongoing, but both men told Berkeleyside they feel confident they will strike a deal. UC plans to redo the plaza outside Wurster Hall for the new café, said Lalanne. The building is named after William Wurster, the famed architect and dean of the Berkeley Architectural School, now known as the College of Environmental Design.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93910\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan’s restaurant Slanted Door which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Photo: SierraValleyGirl\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93910\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan’s restaurant Slanted Door which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/sierravalleygirl/10180982995/in/photolist-gvEcxz-gvELRX-gvDGxQ-gvEvNJ-gvEx2W-5CyVku-npcaiR-3bfmC-8xUTp-25J1Y-boqDVA-gvEbVc-gvEvB1-gvEMS4-gvEwbY-gvEcaa-gvDGAW-gvELFg-aND6VK-5i6CFY-5CRrA8-5CVKn5-6wwazr-4WcM98-5i6CNj-4Wh2KQ-5CmQ4H-6bseY2-2kBv3p-6f3zY5-9Kpzuu-8mEvuo-8zrtCP-8zruLt-8zrtSn-8zru6V-8zuCQA-8zrv54-8zrurB-5Cr7P9-6j9GnT-6go47D-4qWN7w-8Hjoc2-8HgfHM-8Hjors-8Hnn8J-9xywr-4hheu3-8efi7z\" target=\"_blank\">SierraValleyGirl\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Phan family opened the original Slanted Door on Valencia Street in 1995 and it remains one of the area’s most highly regarded restaurants. It is now located in the Ferry Building, and is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Phan has been involved with several other restaurant projects over the past few years, including the Moss Room at the California Academy of Sciences. Along with Slanted Door, his current interests include two Out The Door take-out restaurants, Mexican eatery South at the SFJazz Center, and the Hard Water whiskey bar, all in San Francisco. Phan said he employs a total of around 400 people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan said his career is dotted with times he tried to take organic and sustainable food into unlikely places, like when he opened Out The Door in Westfield Mall in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It has always been our model to change the world… we’ve got to make good food and change the way people eat,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Out The Door closed because of some plumbing issues, but, even though it wasn’t the best fit, Phan said he doesn’t shy away from experimenting. His recently shuttered Coachman was an homage to his father who had to flee China in 1951 and Vietnam in 1975. After bringing his second family of 10 to the United States via Guam, and settling in a two-room apartment in the Tenderloin district of San Francisco, Phan’s father supported his family by working at the old Coachman, a British pub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan worked as a busboy at the Coachman when he was 15 years old, the first of many jobs in the food industry. He attended Marina Junior High and Mission High School. He was always artistic and wanted to be a potter. “I always liked to do stuff with my hands,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93911\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg\" alt=\"Wurster Hall. Photo Daniel Ramirez\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93911\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg 480w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez-320x427.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wurster Hall. Photo \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/danramarch/4426311318/in/photolist-7K919o-burFRh-dj1PuS-6WgDUQ-bNvVeg-73pfxA-73ULPj-8dSr1D-8dVGeL-egW2cU-8dSr8a-5dX9cY-8dVFmb-4eWifW-4eWiky-4eSjFe-4eSjVc-4eSjEn-4eSjGk-4eSjNc-8dSq38-iQ5C9V-Qqy2-4eSjCH-8dVFdy-8dVFRs-8dSq9c-8dSqFF-B89Wf-7Xd5aT-7Qqcgf-7BCMcV-51KvRf-8CDMiU-8CDxmY-8CAFsg-dbrj4P-4zsJdQ-fy6JRf-fxRtZ6-7k9a1h-7k9hrL-3wEft-7k9fA7-7k9j3N-7k9fqG-7k9cPd-7k5ppv-7k5mNK-7k5pPP\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Ramirez\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan’s father told him he hadn’t escaped Vietnam to have his son become an artist. So Phan decided to enroll in the architecture program at UC Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan never ate at Chez Panisse when he was a Cal student, or at Zuni Café, the trendsetting San Francisco restaurant owned by Judy Rodgers. But when he decided to start his own restaurant he looked at them for what to do. Phan noticed they had a limited number of items on the menu, maybe six plates. Chinese restaurants, in contrast, had 175 menu items. Phan thought he could do something in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I figured it couldn’t be that hard,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan also knew he didn’t want to open a clichéd Asian restaurant with bamboo and lanterns. His family’s house in Vietnam had been modern, and he had an appreciation for design because of his architectural studies. The Slanted Door in the Mission was architecturally forward, one of the many reasons it received so much acclaim when it opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wurster Hall, one of the most loved and also most reviled buildings on the UC Berkeley campus, currently houses \u003ca href=\"http://caldining.berkeley.edu/locations/on-campus-retail/ramonas\" target=\"_blank\">Ramona’s\u003c/a> café which offers made-to-order panini, Asian rice bowls, as well as baked goods. It has indoor and outdoor seating.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Charles Phan is planning to take over the café at UC Berkeley's Wurster Hall in the fall serving his trademark organic, international food. It will be the famous chef’s first venture in the East Bay.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1426378564,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":805},"headData":{"title":"Charles Phan Plans to Open Café at UC Berkeley | KQED","description":"Charles Phan is planning to take over the café at UC Berkeley's Wurster Hall in the fall serving his trademark organic, international food. It will be the famous chef’s first venture in the East Bay.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Charles Phan Plans to Open Café at UC Berkeley","datePublished":"2015-03-15T00:12:52.000Z","dateModified":"2015-03-15T00:16:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"93907 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=93907","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/14/charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley/","disqusTitle":"Charles Phan Plans to Open Café at UC Berkeley","path":"/bayareabites/93907/charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan photographed in 2008: the famous restaurateur hopes to open a café on the UC Berkeley campus. Photo: Jennifer Yin\" width=\"720\" height=\"544\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93909\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544.jpg 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544-400x302.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Charles-Phan-Photo-Jennifer-Yin-720x544-320x242.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan photographed in 2008: the famous restaurateur hopes to open a café on the UC Berkeley campus. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/bittermelon/2888234925/in/photolist-5pik8d-5piefN-5pio1q-5pijgY-5pic6f-5pdVjB-5pioBC-5pe4ce-5pikys-5pe2gR-5piq3S-5pideq-5pikYj-5pe4Nx-5pe2vz-5pifzm-5pdWsF-5pdXoa-5pdXBT-5pdWB4-5pdVYT-5pioJj-5pip91-5pe9ze-5picof-5pigcG-5pibdN-5pe97k-5pifFf-5pinVq-5pdZjc-5pdXbz-5pif4E-5pe616-5pe2C4-5pij9L-5pe46V-5pibLW-5pdY6V-5pe6hK-5pig7f-5pijyU-5pifK1-5pidm1-5pdYJH-5pe5vc-5pe4pz-5pdXfa-5piiPs-5pdYu2\" target=\"_blank\">Jennifer Yin\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Berkeleyside Editors, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2015/03/13/charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeleyside NOSH\u003c/a> (3/13/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Charles Phan was an architecture student at UC Berkeley, he spent a lot of time in Wurster Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan left Cal before he graduated, but he is about, once again, to spend time at Wurster, as he is planning to take over the café there in the fall serving his trademark organic, international food. It will be the famous chef’s first venture in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I am 99%, not 100% sure,” Phan said about the opening. Describing his vision for the space, he said: “You walk up, you get some food. It’s affordable, it’s fast. My goal is to take care of the students.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Lalanne, the vice-chancellor of real estate at UC Berkeley, approached Phan many months ago about serving food at UC Berkeley. Phan is best known for the critically acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Slanted Door restaurant\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Talks are ongoing, but both men told Berkeleyside they feel confident they will strike a deal. UC plans to redo the plaza outside Wurster Hall for the new café, said Lalanne. The building is named after William Wurster, the famed architect and dean of the Berkeley Architectural School, now known as the College of Environmental Design.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93910\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan’s restaurant Slanted Door which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Photo: SierraValleyGirl\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93910\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540.jpg 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Slanted-Door-Photo-Sierra-Valley-Girl-720x540-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan’s restaurant Slanted Door which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/sierravalleygirl/10180982995/in/photolist-gvEcxz-gvELRX-gvDGxQ-gvEvNJ-gvEx2W-5CyVku-npcaiR-3bfmC-8xUTp-25J1Y-boqDVA-gvEbVc-gvEvB1-gvEMS4-gvEwbY-gvEcaa-gvDGAW-gvELFg-aND6VK-5i6CFY-5CRrA8-5CVKn5-6wwazr-4WcM98-5i6CNj-4Wh2KQ-5CmQ4H-6bseY2-2kBv3p-6f3zY5-9Kpzuu-8mEvuo-8zrtCP-8zruLt-8zrtSn-8zru6V-8zuCQA-8zrv54-8zrurB-5Cr7P9-6j9GnT-6go47D-4qWN7w-8Hjoc2-8HgfHM-8Hjors-8Hnn8J-9xywr-4hheu3-8efi7z\" target=\"_blank\">SierraValleyGirl\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Phan family opened the original Slanted Door on Valencia Street in 1995 and it remains one of the area’s most highly regarded restaurants. It is now located in the Ferry Building, and is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Phan has been involved with several other restaurant projects over the past few years, including the Moss Room at the California Academy of Sciences. Along with Slanted Door, his current interests include two Out The Door take-out restaurants, Mexican eatery South at the SFJazz Center, and the Hard Water whiskey bar, all in San Francisco. Phan said he employs a total of around 400 people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan said his career is dotted with times he tried to take organic and sustainable food into unlikely places, like when he opened Out The Door in Westfield Mall in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It has always been our model to change the world… we’ve got to make good food and change the way people eat,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Out The Door closed because of some plumbing issues, but, even though it wasn’t the best fit, Phan said he doesn’t shy away from experimenting. His recently shuttered Coachman was an homage to his father who had to flee China in 1951 and Vietnam in 1975. After bringing his second family of 10 to the United States via Guam, and settling in a two-room apartment in the Tenderloin district of San Francisco, Phan’s father supported his family by working at the old Coachman, a British pub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan worked as a busboy at the Coachman when he was 15 years old, the first of many jobs in the food industry. He attended Marina Junior High and Mission High School. He was always artistic and wanted to be a potter. “I always liked to do stuff with my hands,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93911\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg\" alt=\"Wurster Hall. Photo Daniel Ramirez\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93911\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez.jpg 480w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/Wurster-Hall.-Photo-Daniel-Ramirez-320x427.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wurster Hall. Photo \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/danramarch/4426311318/in/photolist-7K919o-burFRh-dj1PuS-6WgDUQ-bNvVeg-73pfxA-73ULPj-8dSr1D-8dVGeL-egW2cU-8dSr8a-5dX9cY-8dVFmb-4eWifW-4eWiky-4eSjFe-4eSjVc-4eSjEn-4eSjGk-4eSjNc-8dSq38-iQ5C9V-Qqy2-4eSjCH-8dVFdy-8dVFRs-8dSq9c-8dSqFF-B89Wf-7Xd5aT-7Qqcgf-7BCMcV-51KvRf-8CDMiU-8CDxmY-8CAFsg-dbrj4P-4zsJdQ-fy6JRf-fxRtZ6-7k9a1h-7k9hrL-3wEft-7k9fA7-7k9j3N-7k9fqG-7k9cPd-7k5ppv-7k5mNK-7k5pPP\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Ramirez\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan’s father told him he hadn’t escaped Vietnam to have his son become an artist. So Phan decided to enroll in the architecture program at UC Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan never ate at Chez Panisse when he was a Cal student, or at Zuni Café, the trendsetting San Francisco restaurant owned by Judy Rodgers. But when he decided to start his own restaurant he looked at them for what to do. Phan noticed they had a limited number of items on the menu, maybe six plates. Chinese restaurants, in contrast, had 175 menu items. Phan thought he could do something in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I figured it couldn’t be that hard,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan also knew he didn’t want to open a clichéd Asian restaurant with bamboo and lanterns. His family’s house in Vietnam had been modern, and he had an appreciation for design because of his architectural studies. The Slanted Door in the Mission was architecturally forward, one of the many reasons it received so much acclaim when it opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wurster Hall, one of the most loved and also most reviled buildings on the UC Berkeley campus, currently houses \u003ca href=\"http://caldining.berkeley.edu/locations/on-campus-retail/ramonas\" target=\"_blank\">Ramona’s\u003c/a> café which offers made-to-order panini, Asian rice bowls, as well as baked goods. It has indoor and outdoor seating.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/93907/charles-phan-plans-to-open-cafe-at-uc-berkeley","authors":["5592"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_13813","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_9649"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93909","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79934":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79934","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79934","score":null,"sort":[1397781690000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","title":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","publishDate":1397781690,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Charles Phan is a local boy, through and through: before he became a celebrity chef with the runaway success of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, he went to UC Berkeley and Mission High School. He spent his teen years in San Francisco's Chinatown and recalls it nostalgically, even though his family struggled financially at the time. In the 1970s, his mother was making $2 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Phan employs more than 20 of his relatives at \u003ca href=\"www.slanteddoor.com/restaurants\">eight\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco. Even an ostensibly non-local restaurant concept like \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachmansf.com/#/food/\">The Coachman\u003c/a> ties back to Phan's first job in the US, bussing at a different Coachman that closed years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place and time figure heavily in Phan’s approach to cooking -- and life. \"When you don’t have the story [behind a dish or a menu], it just means a little less. It’s about flavor now, and there’s nothing that ties you back to the past, to why people do what they do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80602\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that he's expanded beyond his home cuisine of Vietnam, Phan has been researching to connect his restaurants and their menus to story. A vast bookcase across from his open kitchen is filled with cookbooks, but he also travels, to taste and taste and taste again. Phan jokes that he exhausts the patience of his children, who get dragged along on these research trips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have to eat the same dishes five, six times to get a bearing: What’s everybody think? Food’s very personal. Everybody will have their secret way of doing it, but after awhile you get a sense of -- sometimes it’s physical. The location, the weather, the material [ingredients] that you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has to research Vietnamese food, too. After all, he left Vietnam when he was 13 years-old. But also, traditions continue to change and evolve over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what the Vietnamese ate 50, 100 years ago, I’m sure was completely different.\" So, he says, when he talks about his Vietnamese tradition, he's talking about something drawn from his family's experience in the last half century. \"Not that far back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the story of how his mother developed the peanut sauce for the \u003ca href=\"http://numnums.com/recipes/873/slanted-door-s-spring-rolls\">spring rolls\u003c/a> that helped launch the original Slanted Door restaurant nearly 20 years ago. Waiting for the bus that would take her to work, Phan's mother traded recipes and cooking tips with other Vietnamese immigrants. That's where she heard about using sticky rice and miso as blending agents for the peanut sauce, to develop the perfect taste and viscosity. As he explained to KQED host Thuy Vu on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/03/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking/\">Forum\u003c/a>, use too much peanut butter, and you'll get something \"almost like \u003ca href=\"http://www.peanutbutter.com/products.html\">Skippy\u003c/a>, with Thai chili in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine, he notes, is an amalgamation, heavily influenced by Chinese and French cuisine. The other secret ingredient in his mom's spring roll? Mayonnaise, a legacy of a job she held at a French hospital in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan brings that expansive attitude to the menu at the Slanted Door. He's using ingredients local to Northern California. But the aesthetic is also Vietnamese-American, like him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's not true of the dish he prepares for Bay Area Bites on the day we come to visit. We've asked him to make a holiday dish, a dish with religious significance, for KQED's Food & Spirituality series. He obliges with a dish he doesn't typically prepare because his mother is the one that makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80610\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>, a savory sticky, rice cake cooked in banana leaves, like a tamale -- a dish familiar to Chinese and Vietnamese people as a new year's treat. Phan's father fled Southern China to Vietnam during the Cultural Revolution, and his family serves banh chưng during \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/30/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet/\">Tết\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or Chinese New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\" alt=\"Xing Huang prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xing Huang helps prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the banana leaves, inside a base of glutinous rice, are all sorts of goodies: mung bean, pork belly, pork shoulder, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, and last but not least, a salted duck egg in the center. \"That’s one of my favorite things,\" Phan says, \"to find a salted duck egg in the middle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what's the story behind \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>? In Vietnam, one version of the \u003ca href=\"http://learningtogive.org/resources/folktales/EarthCakes.asp\">story\u003c/a> goes, there was a king who had 18 sons. To choose the next king, he held a cooking competition. Most of the princes opted for rare and fancy ingredients. The youngest son was too poor for that. He created a dish inspired by the countryside he lived in -- rice from the nearby fields, green leaves from the forest. His humility, and the simple purity of his approach, won the king over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80606\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You know,\" says Phan, \"a lot of Vietnamese cuisine’s about that. It’s never about the expensive \u003cem>foie gras\u003c/em> or caviar. It’s always about simple ingredients -- and what can you turn these ingredients into, to create food that's just amazing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a dish that usually involves a small army of women getting together in the kitchen to prepare and combine the ingredients, then hover over the pots in which piles of \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> are boiled. Small, hungry children typically watch with great interest, but the first \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> go to the family's altar honoring ancestors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story of why people come to the Bay Area from a foreign land is often a painful one. Poverty, political upheaval, and war compel people to risk everything for a future in the US. But over time, it becomes more and more difficult to hold on to memories of the homeland, and to the cultural traditions that make less and less sense as the years pass. But food is an easy link...provided you hang on to the recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80617\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the flash of a sharp knife, Phan slices through the string that holds the banana leaves together. The boiled \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> can be re-steamed, or sliced and sauteed, then topped with a drizzle of soy sauce or Maggi, another condiment that's a favorite of the Vietnamese. The glutinous rice with mung bean recalls grits, and the sausage and egg inside pair perfectly, recalling the classic American breakfast of grits, eggs and ham or sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80654\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80654\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan says you can find \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> in dim sum houses, especially around Chinese New Year, but not in his restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It’s just stuck in my head that it’s a religious food, so I won’t serve it in a restaurant. Seems sacrilegious.\" He laughs, and tucks again into the fruit of his labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80614\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"We journey into the kitchen of Charles Phan, Vietnamese-American chef of The Slanted Door Group, to cook a dish served during Tet.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1642779412,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1210},"headData":{"title":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen | KQED","description":"We journey into the kitchen of Charles Phan, Vietnamese-American chef of The Slanted Door Group, to cook a dish served during Tet.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","datePublished":"2014-04-18T00:41:30.000Z","dateModified":"2022-01-21T15:36:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79934 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79934","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/17/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","path":"/bayareabites/79934/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Charles Phan is a local boy, through and through: before he became a celebrity chef with the runaway success of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, he went to UC Berkeley and Mission High School. He spent his teen years in San Francisco's Chinatown and recalls it nostalgically, even though his family struggled financially at the time. In the 1970s, his mother was making $2 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Phan employs more than 20 of his relatives at \u003ca href=\"www.slanteddoor.com/restaurants\">eight\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco. Even an ostensibly non-local restaurant concept like \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachmansf.com/#/food/\">The Coachman\u003c/a> ties back to Phan's first job in the US, bussing at a different Coachman that closed years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place and time figure heavily in Phan’s approach to cooking -- and life. \"When you don’t have the story [behind a dish or a menu], it just means a little less. It’s about flavor now, and there’s nothing that ties you back to the past, to why people do what they do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80602\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that he's expanded beyond his home cuisine of Vietnam, Phan has been researching to connect his restaurants and their menus to story. A vast bookcase across from his open kitchen is filled with cookbooks, but he also travels, to taste and taste and taste again. Phan jokes that he exhausts the patience of his children, who get dragged along on these research trips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have to eat the same dishes five, six times to get a bearing: What’s everybody think? Food’s very personal. Everybody will have their secret way of doing it, but after awhile you get a sense of -- sometimes it’s physical. The location, the weather, the material [ingredients] that you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has to research Vietnamese food, too. After all, he left Vietnam when he was 13 years-old. But also, traditions continue to change and evolve over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what the Vietnamese ate 50, 100 years ago, I’m sure was completely different.\" So, he says, when he talks about his Vietnamese tradition, he's talking about something drawn from his family's experience in the last half century. \"Not that far back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the story of how his mother developed the peanut sauce for the \u003ca href=\"http://numnums.com/recipes/873/slanted-door-s-spring-rolls\">spring rolls\u003c/a> that helped launch the original Slanted Door restaurant nearly 20 years ago. Waiting for the bus that would take her to work, Phan's mother traded recipes and cooking tips with other Vietnamese immigrants. That's where she heard about using sticky rice and miso as blending agents for the peanut sauce, to develop the perfect taste and viscosity. As he explained to KQED host Thuy Vu on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/03/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking/\">Forum\u003c/a>, use too much peanut butter, and you'll get something \"almost like \u003ca href=\"http://www.peanutbutter.com/products.html\">Skippy\u003c/a>, with Thai chili in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine, he notes, is an amalgamation, heavily influenced by Chinese and French cuisine. The other secret ingredient in his mom's spring roll? Mayonnaise, a legacy of a job she held at a French hospital in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan brings that expansive attitude to the menu at the Slanted Door. He's using ingredients local to Northern California. But the aesthetic is also Vietnamese-American, like him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's not true of the dish he prepares for Bay Area Bites on the day we come to visit. We've asked him to make a holiday dish, a dish with religious significance, for KQED's Food & Spirituality series. He obliges with a dish he doesn't typically prepare because his mother is the one that makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80610\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>, a savory sticky, rice cake cooked in banana leaves, like a tamale -- a dish familiar to Chinese and Vietnamese people as a new year's treat. Phan's father fled Southern China to Vietnam during the Cultural Revolution, and his family serves banh chưng during \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/30/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet/\">Tết\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or Chinese New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\" alt=\"Xing Huang prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xing Huang helps prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the banana leaves, inside a base of glutinous rice, are all sorts of goodies: mung bean, pork belly, pork shoulder, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, and last but not least, a salted duck egg in the center. \"That’s one of my favorite things,\" Phan says, \"to find a salted duck egg in the middle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what's the story behind \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>? In Vietnam, one version of the \u003ca href=\"http://learningtogive.org/resources/folktales/EarthCakes.asp\">story\u003c/a> goes, there was a king who had 18 sons. To choose the next king, he held a cooking competition. Most of the princes opted for rare and fancy ingredients. The youngest son was too poor for that. He created a dish inspired by the countryside he lived in -- rice from the nearby fields, green leaves from the forest. His humility, and the simple purity of his approach, won the king over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80606\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You know,\" says Phan, \"a lot of Vietnamese cuisine’s about that. It’s never about the expensive \u003cem>foie gras\u003c/em> or caviar. It’s always about simple ingredients -- and what can you turn these ingredients into, to create food that's just amazing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a dish that usually involves a small army of women getting together in the kitchen to prepare and combine the ingredients, then hover over the pots in which piles of \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> are boiled. Small, hungry children typically watch with great interest, but the first \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> go to the family's altar honoring ancestors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story of why people come to the Bay Area from a foreign land is often a painful one. Poverty, political upheaval, and war compel people to risk everything for a future in the US. But over time, it becomes more and more difficult to hold on to memories of the homeland, and to the cultural traditions that make less and less sense as the years pass. But food is an easy link...provided you hang on to the recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80617\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the flash of a sharp knife, Phan slices through the string that holds the banana leaves together. The boiled \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> can be re-steamed, or sliced and sauteed, then topped with a drizzle of soy sauce or Maggi, another condiment that's a favorite of the Vietnamese. The glutinous rice with mung bean recalls grits, and the sausage and egg inside pair perfectly, recalling the classic American breakfast of grits, eggs and ham or sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80654\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80654\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan says you can find \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> in dim sum houses, especially around Chinese New Year, but not in his restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It’s just stuck in my head that it’s a religious food, so I won’t serve it in a restaurant. Seems sacrilegious.\" He laughs, and tucks again into the fruit of his labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80614\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79934/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","authors":["251","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_12493","bayareabites_12549","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_1784","bayareabites_3529","bayareabites_4028","bayareabites_8900","bayareabites_8892","bayareabites_9917","bayareabites_68","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_10985","bayareabites_17079"],"featImg":"bayareabites_80661","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_57872":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_57872","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"57872","score":null,"sort":[1362629566000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"no-bandwiches-here-charles-phan-opens-south-restaurant-at-sfjazz","title":"No Bandwiches Here: Charles Phan opens South Restaurant at SFJAZZ ","publishDate":1362629566,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58010\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/south-entrance1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/south-entrance1000.jpg\" alt=\"Window looking into South at SFJAZZ Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58010\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Window looking into South at SFJAZZ Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Hayes Valley, the new 35,000-square-foot SFJAZZ Center is the first permanent home for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfjazz.org/built-jazz\">SFJAZZ\u003c/a>. The new center is already a major draw for musicians and jazz fans locally since every seat in the house offers \u003cem>amazing\u003c/em> acoustics. Now, jazz fans also have their own watering hole with casual bites. This week, Chef Charles Phan opened South restaurant, with craft bourbon cocktails by \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family#erik\">Erik Adkins\u003c/a> and food ranging from fried beignets (by Pastry Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family#chucky\">Chucky Dugo\u003c/a>) to alligator sausage, tender spicy beef jerky and oysters baked or fried. Bar food is a definite departure from the clean award-winning Vietnamese fare Phan is known for, but South gives him a chance to play and riff. Phan has been open with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Bay Area Bites\u003c/a> about his growing love of bourbon, and is due to open the bourbon and fried chicken Hard Water concept on the Embarcadero. He just returned from a research trip to Kentucky with Adkins and architect Olle Lundberg and the trio sampled from up to fifteen barrels each day. “We had to stop at that point,” he said with a laugh. Lundberg's renderings of the space can be seen below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/charles-phan1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/charles-phan1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With a growing empire of Bay Area restaurants including the highly regarded \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/food\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, Phan said he is happy to be a part of this new San Francisco institution, even if he did at first say no to the prospect. Turns out, he does know how to provide quality sustenance for hungry musicians and their fans and has put some thought into how to do that: “A lot of them are always on the road, and it’s tough for them to get a good, warm meal. They’re like gypsies. At the end of the day, we want to provide good food and value.” Because Phan also oversees the SFJAZZ catering and green room operations, he hopes to get musicians to enjoy the food so much that it will be one reason for them to return, again and again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH-alligator-sausage1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH-alligator-sausage1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s Alligator sausage. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57908\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s Alligator sausage. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH_cornmeal-crusted-fried-oysters1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH_cornmeal-crusted-fried-oysters1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s Cornmeal crusted fried oysters with jalapeño remoulade Photo: Angkana Kurutac\" width=\"1000\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57907\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s Cornmeal crusted fried oysters with jalapeño remoulade Photo: Angkana Kurutac\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SFJAZZ Trustee and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Boonville-Novel-Robert-Mailer-Anderson/dp/0060516216\">\u003cem>Boonville\u003c/em>\u003c/a> author Robert Mailer Anderson helped raise the money to build the new center. He and his wife Nicola Miner are friends to many musicians and writers (including me, full disclosure) and are major Obama fundraisers. Anderson will eagerly share the details of where to get his favorite late night meal of al pastor tacos--\u003ca href=\"http://www.taqueriasanjose1since1980.com/\">San Jose taqueria\u003c/a>, here we come. Regarding why Phan was chosen to head up the food for SFJAZZ, Anderson is quick to sing Phan’s praises, “We’re a cutting edge jazz center so we should have someone who is cutting edge in the culinary world.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South-at-SFJAZZ-Renderingslundberg-design1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South-at-SFJAZZ-Renderingslundberg-design1000.jpg\" alt=\"South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57909\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57910\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SouthSFJAZZRenderingslundberg-design1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SouthSFJAZZRenderingslundberg-design1000a.jpg\" alt=\"South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\" width=\"1000\" height=\"639\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57910\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He is also quick to second Phan’s notion that food is important for any musician: “Because musicians travel so much, they are always talking about food. With the guys, they tend to talk about food and women. The perfect night out seems to include music, food and drinks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fifty seats at South have full window views of the outside scene and the space is perfectly set up for a quick The Battle of New Orleans cocktail and nibble. Part of the South bar peers into the Robert N. Miner auditorium through a large glass panel. SFJAZZ’s Marshall Lamm confirmed that bar patrons can nab a peek during live performances, which may be markedly different in both vibe and appearance than other music spots (guests do need a ticket to take in any performance). Phan noted that because the Miner auditorium holds up to 700 guests, it makes more sense for jazz patrons to plan on getting a cocktail, versus food, at South. During performances, there is also an upstairs bar with views onto a wall filled with breathtaking black-and-white images of jazz greats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/JazzGreats_South1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/JazzGreats_South1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jazz greats: a view from the South and SFJAZZ building Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jazz greats: a view from the South and SFJAZZ building Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>South currently offers eleven cocktails priced at $10, and draft beer and local wine are also available. The Blenheim ginger sparkler is a kicky and not-too-sweet refresher for designated drivers and best of all, concertgoers can tote their drinks back into the auditorium in compostable glasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57923\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South_TheBattleof-NewOrleansDrinks1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South_TheBattleof-NewOrleansDrinks1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s bar: prepped The Battle of New Orleans bourbon drinks. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57923\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s bar: prepped The Battle of New Orleans bourbon drinks. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/french75-cocktail1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/french75-cocktail1000.jpg\" alt=\"French 75 cocktails at South's bar. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58008\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French 75 cocktails at South's bar. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Prominent jazz vocalist and fourth generation San Franciscan \u003ca href=\"http://www.kittymargolis.com/index.php\">Kitty Margolis\u003c/a> sounded relieved and enthusiastic over Phan’s menu. She noted that his fare is miles better than the sort of dry \"bandwiches\" she has endured during her career. Since I had never heard the term bandwich, she explained it: a “bandwich” or “gigwich” is an unappealing catered sandwich that is often served to musicians. Sometimes, it may happen that the musicians are performing for a group that is enjoying a fancy dinner that looks and smells great, from afar. The musician’s cold bandwich usually arrives wrapped in plastic with grey mystery meat in between two slices of old looking bread. Condiments are an afterthought for bandwiches and forget about seeing some fresh and green Little Gem produce that Phan is using in his celery root remoulade dish at South. Bandwiches are so terrible that Margolis, who has performed in Italy, Japan and all over the world, now specifies in her rider contract that bandwiches are forbidden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/littlegems1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/littlegems1000.jpg\" alt=\"Celery root remoulade with Little Gem lettuce. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58007\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery root remoulade with Little Gem lettuce. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan’s seasonal touches are evident on the menu, which he said can draw from the south of Italy and south of Spain. Margolis and Anderson both discussed how similar jazz and cooking can be, due to the use of improvisation. At first bite, the South menu looks more like improv from the American historic south, with a seasonal and California twist: chive-rice ball (called a calas) with red pepper jelly, cornmeal crusted fried oysters with remoulade, black-eyed pea spread paired with poppy seed crackers, duck rillettes with Creole mustard, and chicken gumbo. The menu is geared towards small plates that seem to point to a lighter approach that incorporates sharing. Breakfast and lunch are slated to begin next month, and Phan hopes that South will draw in locals as well as musicians. “That’s why we’re doing breakfast and lunch, for the folks who live nearby. We want people to use the space all day long.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chick Corea plays in the Robert N. Miner auditorium at the SFJAZZ Center. Guests can visit South for food and drinks before and during performances like this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgMMPItMS70]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&cid=18141891765408404528&q=SFJAZZ+Center&iwloc=A&gl=US&hl=en\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n201 Franklin Street (at Fell)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94102\u003cbr>\n(415) 539-3905\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner daily 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nBreakfast and lunch opening in April 2013\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SFJAZZ\">@SFJAZZ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SFJAZZ?fref=ts\">SFJAZZ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"This week marks the launch of Chef Charles Phan's South restaurant in the new SFJAZZ Center. Explore what South means to the Bay Area and jazz, with commentary from Chef Charles Phan, musician Kitty Margolis and SFJAZZ trustee Robert Mailer Anderson.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368556601,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1205},"headData":{"title":"No Bandwiches Here: Charles Phan opens South Restaurant at SFJAZZ | KQED","description":"This week marks the launch of Chef Charles Phan's South restaurant in the new SFJAZZ Center. Explore what South means to the Bay Area and jazz, with commentary from Chef Charles Phan, musician Kitty Margolis and SFJAZZ trustee Robert Mailer Anderson.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"No Bandwiches Here: Charles Phan opens South Restaurant at SFJAZZ ","datePublished":"2013-03-07T04:12:46.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-14T18:36:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"57872 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=57872","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/06/no-bandwiches-here-charles-phan-opens-south-restaurant-at-sfjazz/","disqusTitle":"No Bandwiches Here: Charles Phan opens South Restaurant at SFJAZZ ","path":"/bayareabites/57872/no-bandwiches-here-charles-phan-opens-south-restaurant-at-sfjazz","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58010\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/south-entrance1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/south-entrance1000.jpg\" alt=\"Window looking into South at SFJAZZ Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58010\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Window looking into South at SFJAZZ Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Hayes Valley, the new 35,000-square-foot SFJAZZ Center is the first permanent home for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfjazz.org/built-jazz\">SFJAZZ\u003c/a>. The new center is already a major draw for musicians and jazz fans locally since every seat in the house offers \u003cem>amazing\u003c/em> acoustics. Now, jazz fans also have their own watering hole with casual bites. This week, Chef Charles Phan opened South restaurant, with craft bourbon cocktails by \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family#erik\">Erik Adkins\u003c/a> and food ranging from fried beignets (by Pastry Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family#chucky\">Chucky Dugo\u003c/a>) to alligator sausage, tender spicy beef jerky and oysters baked or fried. Bar food is a definite departure from the clean award-winning Vietnamese fare Phan is known for, but South gives him a chance to play and riff. Phan has been open with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Bay Area Bites\u003c/a> about his growing love of bourbon, and is due to open the bourbon and fried chicken Hard Water concept on the Embarcadero. He just returned from a research trip to Kentucky with Adkins and architect Olle Lundberg and the trio sampled from up to fifteen barrels each day. “We had to stop at that point,” he said with a laugh. Lundberg's renderings of the space can be seen below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/charles-phan1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/charles-phan1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With a growing empire of Bay Area restaurants including the highly regarded \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/food\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, Phan said he is happy to be a part of this new San Francisco institution, even if he did at first say no to the prospect. Turns out, he does know how to provide quality sustenance for hungry musicians and their fans and has put some thought into how to do that: “A lot of them are always on the road, and it’s tough for them to get a good, warm meal. They’re like gypsies. At the end of the day, we want to provide good food and value.” Because Phan also oversees the SFJAZZ catering and green room operations, he hopes to get musicians to enjoy the food so much that it will be one reason for them to return, again and again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH-alligator-sausage1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH-alligator-sausage1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s Alligator sausage. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57908\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s Alligator sausage. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH_cornmeal-crusted-fried-oysters1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SOUTH_cornmeal-crusted-fried-oysters1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s Cornmeal crusted fried oysters with jalapeño remoulade Photo: Angkana Kurutac\" width=\"1000\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57907\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s Cornmeal crusted fried oysters with jalapeño remoulade Photo: Angkana Kurutac\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SFJAZZ Trustee and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Boonville-Novel-Robert-Mailer-Anderson/dp/0060516216\">\u003cem>Boonville\u003c/em>\u003c/a> author Robert Mailer Anderson helped raise the money to build the new center. He and his wife Nicola Miner are friends to many musicians and writers (including me, full disclosure) and are major Obama fundraisers. Anderson will eagerly share the details of where to get his favorite late night meal of al pastor tacos--\u003ca href=\"http://www.taqueriasanjose1since1980.com/\">San Jose taqueria\u003c/a>, here we come. Regarding why Phan was chosen to head up the food for SFJAZZ, Anderson is quick to sing Phan’s praises, “We’re a cutting edge jazz center so we should have someone who is cutting edge in the culinary world.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South-at-SFJAZZ-Renderingslundberg-design1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South-at-SFJAZZ-Renderingslundberg-design1000.jpg\" alt=\"South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57909\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57910\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SouthSFJAZZRenderingslundberg-design1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/SouthSFJAZZRenderingslundberg-design1000a.jpg\" alt=\"South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\" width=\"1000\" height=\"639\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57910\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South at SFJAZZ Renderings by Lundberg Design\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He is also quick to second Phan’s notion that food is important for any musician: “Because musicians travel so much, they are always talking about food. With the guys, they tend to talk about food and women. The perfect night out seems to include music, food and drinks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fifty seats at South have full window views of the outside scene and the space is perfectly set up for a quick The Battle of New Orleans cocktail and nibble. Part of the South bar peers into the Robert N. Miner auditorium through a large glass panel. SFJAZZ’s Marshall Lamm confirmed that bar patrons can nab a peek during live performances, which may be markedly different in both vibe and appearance than other music spots (guests do need a ticket to take in any performance). Phan noted that because the Miner auditorium holds up to 700 guests, it makes more sense for jazz patrons to plan on getting a cocktail, versus food, at South. During performances, there is also an upstairs bar with views onto a wall filled with breathtaking black-and-white images of jazz greats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/JazzGreats_South1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/JazzGreats_South1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jazz greats: a view from the South and SFJAZZ building Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jazz greats: a view from the South and SFJAZZ building Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>South currently offers eleven cocktails priced at $10, and draft beer and local wine are also available. The Blenheim ginger sparkler is a kicky and not-too-sweet refresher for designated drivers and best of all, concertgoers can tote their drinks back into the auditorium in compostable glasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57923\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South_TheBattleof-NewOrleansDrinks1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/South_TheBattleof-NewOrleansDrinks1000.jpg\" alt=\"South’s bar: prepped The Battle of New Orleans bourbon drinks. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57923\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South’s bar: prepped The Battle of New Orleans bourbon drinks. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/french75-cocktail1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/french75-cocktail1000.jpg\" alt=\"French 75 cocktails at South's bar. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58008\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French 75 cocktails at South's bar. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Prominent jazz vocalist and fourth generation San Franciscan \u003ca href=\"http://www.kittymargolis.com/index.php\">Kitty Margolis\u003c/a> sounded relieved and enthusiastic over Phan’s menu. She noted that his fare is miles better than the sort of dry \"bandwiches\" she has endured during her career. Since I had never heard the term bandwich, she explained it: a “bandwich” or “gigwich” is an unappealing catered sandwich that is often served to musicians. Sometimes, it may happen that the musicians are performing for a group that is enjoying a fancy dinner that looks and smells great, from afar. The musician’s cold bandwich usually arrives wrapped in plastic with grey mystery meat in between two slices of old looking bread. Condiments are an afterthought for bandwiches and forget about seeing some fresh and green Little Gem produce that Phan is using in his celery root remoulade dish at South. Bandwiches are so terrible that Margolis, who has performed in Italy, Japan and all over the world, now specifies in her rider contract that bandwiches are forbidden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/littlegems1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/littlegems1000.jpg\" alt=\"Celery root remoulade with Little Gem lettuce. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58007\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery root remoulade with Little Gem lettuce. Photo: Angkana Kurutach\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan’s seasonal touches are evident on the menu, which he said can draw from the south of Italy and south of Spain. Margolis and Anderson both discussed how similar jazz and cooking can be, due to the use of improvisation. At first bite, the South menu looks more like improv from the American historic south, with a seasonal and California twist: chive-rice ball (called a calas) with red pepper jelly, cornmeal crusted fried oysters with remoulade, black-eyed pea spread paired with poppy seed crackers, duck rillettes with Creole mustard, and chicken gumbo. The menu is geared towards small plates that seem to point to a lighter approach that incorporates sharing. Breakfast and lunch are slated to begin next month, and Phan hopes that South will draw in locals as well as musicians. “That’s why we’re doing breakfast and lunch, for the folks who live nearby. We want people to use the space all day long.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chick Corea plays in the Robert N. Miner auditorium at the SFJAZZ Center. Guests can visit South for food and drinks before and during performances like this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/IgMMPItMS70'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/IgMMPItMS70'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&cid=18141891765408404528&q=SFJAZZ+Center&iwloc=A&gl=US&hl=en\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n201 Franklin Street (at Fell)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94102\u003cbr>\n(415) 539-3905\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner daily 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nBreakfast and lunch opening in April 2013\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SFJAZZ\">@SFJAZZ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SFJAZZ?fref=ts\">SFJAZZ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/57872/no-bandwiches-here-charles-phan-opens-south-restaurant-at-sfjazz","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_8864","bayareabites_9372","bayareabites_11322","bayareabites_11323","bayareabites_11321","bayareabites_383"],"featImg":"bayareabites_58009","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_53785":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_53785","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"53785","score":null,"sort":[1357246881000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking","title":"KQED's Forum: Charles Phan on Home Cooking","publishDate":1357246881,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53789\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-53789\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles Phan fled Vietnam with his family during the fall of Saigon when he was just a boy. But he didn't leave behind his love of Vietnamese cuisine. The award-winning chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.\" He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201301031000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>: Thu, Jan 3, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/01/20130103bforum.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Thuy Vu\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Charles Phan, executive chef and owner of The Slanted Door Group, which now includes \u003ca href=\"http://outthedoors.com/\">Out the Door\u003c/a>, Heaven's Dog and the \u003ca href=\"http://wohinggeneralstore.com/\">Wo Hing General Store\u003c/a>, and winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef in California in 2004\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The award-winning chef and owner of The Slanted Door restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, \"Vietnamese Home Cooking.\" He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1358384011,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":150},"headData":{"title":"KQED's Forum: Charles Phan on Home Cooking | KQED","description":"The award-winning chef and owner of The Slanted Door restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, "Vietnamese Home Cooking." He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"KQED's Forum: Charles Phan on Home Cooking","datePublished":"2013-01-03T21:01:21.000Z","dateModified":"2013-01-17T00:53:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"53785 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=53785","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/03/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking/","disqusTitle":"KQED's Forum: Charles Phan on Home Cooking","path":"/bayareabites/53785/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking","audioUrl":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/01/20130103bforum.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53789\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-53789\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles Phan fled Vietnam with his family during the fall of Saigon when he was just a boy. But he didn't leave behind his love of Vietnamese cuisine. The award-winning chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.\" He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201301031000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>: Thu, Jan 3, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/01/20130103bforum.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Thuy Vu\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Charles Phan, executive chef and owner of The Slanted Door Group, which now includes \u003ca href=\"http://outthedoors.com/\">Out the Door\u003c/a>, Heaven's Dog and the \u003ca href=\"http://wohinggeneralstore.com/\">Wo Hing General Store\u003c/a>, and winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef in California in 2004\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/53785/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking","authors":["5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_1325","bayareabites_4028","bayareabites_9917","bayareabites_10985"],"featImg":"bayareabites_53807","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_49660":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_49660","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"49660","score":null,"sort":[1349380737000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking","title":"An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"","publishDate":1349380737,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd interviews Vietnamese food expert and chef Charles Phan, whose first cookbook, Vietnamese Home Cooking is now out. Phan discusses cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1357185041,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1852},"headData":{"title":"An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\" | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd interviews Vietnamese food expert and chef Charles Phan, whose first cookbook, Vietnamese Home Cooking is now out. Phan discusses cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"","datePublished":"2012-10-04T19:58:57.000Z","dateModified":"2013-01-03T03:50:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"49660 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=49660","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/","disqusTitle":"An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"","path":"/bayareabites/49660/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/49660/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_4028","bayareabites_10792","bayareabites_9917","bayareabites_10793","bayareabites_10985"],"featImg":"bayareabites_49674","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_41648":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_41648","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"41648","score":null,"sort":[1334911274000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chef-alicia-jenish%e2%80%99s-misfit-dinners-mentors-and-bay-area-food-favorites","title":"Chef Alicia Jenish’s Misfit Dinners, Mentors and Bay Area Food Favorites ","publishDate":1334911274,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_GrandCafe_Chefphoto300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_GrandCafe_Chefphoto300.jpg\" alt=\"Alicia Jenish at Grand Cafe. Photo courtesy Grand Cafe\" title=\"Alicia Jenish at Grand Cafe. Photo courtesy Grand Cafe\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-42013\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/chefjenish\">Alicia Jenish\u003c/a>, 34, has been the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/\">Grand Cafe\u003c/a>, the Union Square modern French brasserie, since late last year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jenish’s food is both rustic and refined and popular menu mainstays like bouillabaisse, flatbread and steak tartare show off her culinary finesse. Healthy dishes show up as well: black kale salad or garbanzo and black lentil fritters with tahini yogurt sauce (see recipe below) are reminiscent of falafel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef also brings charcuterie and whole beast “head to tail” dining to Grand Cafe, where she has more adventurous dishes that are rooted in centuries-old French tradition. Her whole beast dinner menus are an homage to “\u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/\">animal misfits\u003c/a>” that include goat, rabbit and lamb. For a recent misfit dinner, goat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormackranch.com/goat.php\">McCormack Ranch\u003c/a> turned into goat sugo over house-made pasta, goat tartare and grilled goat chops. All of the misfit dishes are available a la carte, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/files/pdf/media_160.pdf\">misfit dinner\u003c/a> runs \u003cstrong>Thursday, April 19 through Sunday, April 22\u003c/strong>. The rabbit is from Anderson Avilla and rillette, charcuterie and rabbit ballotine are all in this misfit mix. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jenish was raised in Cleveland and Tucson, and said that she went into cooking because she’s loved it since she was a little girl. “It’s the only job I’ve ever had. I fell in love and stuck with it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before landing at the Grand Cafe, she was the opening chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar + Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, where her head-to-tail dishes were well received. Earlier stints include working with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> and Loretta Keller at the Academy of Science museum, and for Phan’s Out the Door Westfield. She was the executive sous chef of \u003ca href=\"http://larkcreek.com/larkcreek_steak/index.html\">Lark Creek Steak\u003c/a>, and chef de cuisine for Robert Cubberly at Le Petit Robert for over four years. She has traveled, cooked and eaten her way through Italy, France and Spain and worked as a butcher at Marsha McBride’s \u003ca href=\"http://caferouge.net/site/\">Café Rouge\u003c/a> in Berkeley, where she mastered charcuterie. Jenish graduated at the top of her class from The Culinary Institute of America in 1999. Jenish was interviewed for Bay Area Bites via phone and email interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why are you doing the misfit menus? Tell us more.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI like to stay creative, step out of the box and have fun! We’ve had a really good response to the misfit dinners. People came in specifically for misfit dishes, and the goat tartare was hugely popular. I love goat tartare and lamb tartare but was surprised at how quickly the orders flew out of the kitchen and sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rabbit misfit dinner, I really like to do rabbit ballotine. I have done a lot of it throughout my career. The rabbit sugo was something new. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.coco500.com/\">Loretta Keller\u003c/a>, Charles Phan, Robert Cubberly, \u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.janos.com/chef-janos/\">Janos Wilder\u003c/a>. Charles is always tough to catch which is why he’s the infamous spotted owl. When I worked for him, a friend of mine and I used to say to each other, “I saw him! Hey!” like you would with a spotted owl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Robert, I will call him. He’s old school. I can text Chris. I started as an intern at Janos and still talk to him when I go home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.haightstreetmarket.com/\">Haight Street Market\u003c/a>: their produce and wine selection are really awesome. For wine, they have an inexpensive unique selection. Their deli is good, too. It’s totally family run, and you see the grandkids there and it’s packed. They have the best BLT. It’s a ten minute walk from where I live in the panhandle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Civic Center Farmers' Market: I go there for Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>, for pork belly and spicy chicken bao from \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChairmanBao\">Chairman Bao\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleyfarmersmarket.com/\">Noe Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>: such a nice selection, and it’s not as popular as other markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.barjules.com/\">Bar Jules\u003c/a>: any pasta they have on the menu. They make the best soups!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>: their little fried fish and pork chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.southpawbbqsf.com/\">Southpaw BBQ\u003c/a>: the best ribs in SF! It’s my friend Edward’s spot. We worked together at Le Petit Robert. They have a cocktail called the Safe Word (laughs). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy mom and I love to make cioppino together. My mom’s a really good cook who loves Julia Child. She lived in France for year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCheese! The higher fat the better! I’ll take any cheese with triple cream, and really go for it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_Garbanzo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_Garbanzo560.jpg\" alt=\"Garbanzo\" title=\"Garbanzo\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42015\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Garbanzo and Black Lentil Fritters with Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Jenish created garbanzo and black lentil fritters because \"I really like garbanzo flour and black lentils. The dish is gluten-free, which we have a huge demand for.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Garbanzo and Black Lentil Fritters with Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> about 12, 3\" triangles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 gallon water\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 pounds chickpea flour\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons cumin, toasted and ground\u003cbr>\n1 cup parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cups black lentils, cooked\u003cbr>\nsalt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a small saute pan, cook the garlic in a little oil until golden brown. Cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly oil two half sheet pans and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small pot, combine the water, chickpea flour, extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. When the mixture thickens, add all the remaining ingredients. Immediately pour onto prepared pans and smooth evenly. Cool completely before cutting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n32 ounces Greek yogurt\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons tahini\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons garlic, rasped (using a microplane)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhisk all ingredients together and serve with fritters.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd profiles Grand Café executive chef Alicia Jenish, who is cooking up misfit dinners that include goat, lamb and rabbit dishes. Jenish shares who her cooking mentors are and why she calls Charles Phan “the Spotted Owl.”","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1334938186,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1000},"headData":{"title":"Chef Alicia Jenish’s Misfit Dinners, Mentors and Bay Area Food Favorites | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd profiles Grand Café executive chef Alicia Jenish, who is cooking up misfit dinners that include goat, lamb and rabbit dishes. Jenish shares who her cooking mentors are and why she calls Charles Phan “the Spotted Owl.”","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chef Alicia Jenish’s Misfit Dinners, Mentors and Bay Area Food Favorites ","datePublished":"2012-04-20T08:41:14.000Z","dateModified":"2012-04-20T16:09:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"41648 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=41648","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/04/20/chef-alicia-jenish%e2%80%99s-misfit-dinners-mentors-and-bay-area-food-favorites/","disqusTitle":"Chef Alicia Jenish’s Misfit Dinners, Mentors and Bay Area Food Favorites ","path":"/bayareabites/41648/chef-alicia-jenish%e2%80%99s-misfit-dinners-mentors-and-bay-area-food-favorites","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_GrandCafe_Chefphoto300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_GrandCafe_Chefphoto300.jpg\" alt=\"Alicia Jenish at Grand Cafe. Photo courtesy Grand Cafe\" title=\"Alicia Jenish at Grand Cafe. Photo courtesy Grand Cafe\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-42013\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/chefjenish\">Alicia Jenish\u003c/a>, 34, has been the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/\">Grand Cafe\u003c/a>, the Union Square modern French brasserie, since late last year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jenish’s food is both rustic and refined and popular menu mainstays like bouillabaisse, flatbread and steak tartare show off her culinary finesse. Healthy dishes show up as well: black kale salad or garbanzo and black lentil fritters with tahini yogurt sauce (see recipe below) are reminiscent of falafel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef also brings charcuterie and whole beast “head to tail” dining to Grand Cafe, where she has more adventurous dishes that are rooted in centuries-old French tradition. Her whole beast dinner menus are an homage to “\u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/\">animal misfits\u003c/a>” that include goat, rabbit and lamb. For a recent misfit dinner, goat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormackranch.com/goat.php\">McCormack Ranch\u003c/a> turned into goat sugo over house-made pasta, goat tartare and grilled goat chops. All of the misfit dishes are available a la carte, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/files/pdf/media_160.pdf\">misfit dinner\u003c/a> runs \u003cstrong>Thursday, April 19 through Sunday, April 22\u003c/strong>. The rabbit is from Anderson Avilla and rillette, charcuterie and rabbit ballotine are all in this misfit mix. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jenish was raised in Cleveland and Tucson, and said that she went into cooking because she’s loved it since she was a little girl. “It’s the only job I’ve ever had. I fell in love and stuck with it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before landing at the Grand Cafe, she was the opening chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar + Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, where her head-to-tail dishes were well received. Earlier stints include working with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> and Loretta Keller at the Academy of Science museum, and for Phan’s Out the Door Westfield. She was the executive sous chef of \u003ca href=\"http://larkcreek.com/larkcreek_steak/index.html\">Lark Creek Steak\u003c/a>, and chef de cuisine for Robert Cubberly at Le Petit Robert for over four years. She has traveled, cooked and eaten her way through Italy, France and Spain and worked as a butcher at Marsha McBride’s \u003ca href=\"http://caferouge.net/site/\">Café Rouge\u003c/a> in Berkeley, where she mastered charcuterie. Jenish graduated at the top of her class from The Culinary Institute of America in 1999. Jenish was interviewed for Bay Area Bites via phone and email interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why are you doing the misfit menus? Tell us more.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI like to stay creative, step out of the box and have fun! We’ve had a really good response to the misfit dinners. People came in specifically for misfit dishes, and the goat tartare was hugely popular. I love goat tartare and lamb tartare but was surprised at how quickly the orders flew out of the kitchen and sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rabbit misfit dinner, I really like to do rabbit ballotine. I have done a lot of it throughout my career. The rabbit sugo was something new. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.coco500.com/\">Loretta Keller\u003c/a>, Charles Phan, Robert Cubberly, \u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.janos.com/chef-janos/\">Janos Wilder\u003c/a>. Charles is always tough to catch which is why he’s the infamous spotted owl. When I worked for him, a friend of mine and I used to say to each other, “I saw him! Hey!” like you would with a spotted owl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Robert, I will call him. He’s old school. I can text Chris. I started as an intern at Janos and still talk to him when I go home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.haightstreetmarket.com/\">Haight Street Market\u003c/a>: their produce and wine selection are really awesome. For wine, they have an inexpensive unique selection. Their deli is good, too. It’s totally family run, and you see the grandkids there and it’s packed. They have the best BLT. It’s a ten minute walk from where I live in the panhandle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Civic Center Farmers' Market: I go there for Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>, for pork belly and spicy chicken bao from \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChairmanBao\">Chairman Bao\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleyfarmersmarket.com/\">Noe Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>: such a nice selection, and it’s not as popular as other markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.barjules.com/\">Bar Jules\u003c/a>: any pasta they have on the menu. They make the best soups!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>: their little fried fish and pork chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.southpawbbqsf.com/\">Southpaw BBQ\u003c/a>: the best ribs in SF! It’s my friend Edward’s spot. We worked together at Le Petit Robert. They have a cocktail called the Safe Word (laughs). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy mom and I love to make cioppino together. My mom’s a really good cook who loves Julia Child. She lived in France for year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCheese! The higher fat the better! I’ll take any cheese with triple cream, and really go for it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_Garbanzo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Jenish_Garbanzo560.jpg\" alt=\"Garbanzo\" title=\"Garbanzo\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42015\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Garbanzo and Black Lentil Fritters with Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Jenish created garbanzo and black lentil fritters because \"I really like garbanzo flour and black lentils. The dish is gluten-free, which we have a huge demand for.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Garbanzo and Black Lentil Fritters with Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> about 12, 3\" triangles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 gallon water\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 pounds chickpea flour\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons cumin, toasted and ground\u003cbr>\n1 cup parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cups black lentils, cooked\u003cbr>\nsalt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a small saute pan, cook the garlic in a little oil until golden brown. Cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly oil two half sheet pans and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small pot, combine the water, chickpea flour, extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. When the mixture thickens, add all the remaining ingredients. Immediately pour onto prepared pans and smooth evenly. Cool completely before cutting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tahini Yogurt Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n32 ounces Greek yogurt\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons tahini\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons garlic, rasped (using a microplane)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhisk all ingredients together and serve with fritters.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/41648/chef-alicia-jenish%e2%80%99s-misfit-dinners-mentors-and-bay-area-food-favorites","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_10330","bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_10331","bayareabites_10333","bayareabites_10332","bayareabites_4028","bayareabites_10328","bayareabites_10329"],"featImg":"bayareabites_42013","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1743":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1743","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1743","score":null,"sort":[1230060866000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"restaurant-openings-in-2009","title":"Restaurant Openings in 2009","publishDate":1230060866,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/83096974@N00/2945260416/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/12/kitchen-contigo-400.jpg\" alt=\"kitchen counter at Contigo\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/83096974@N00/2945260416/\"> \u003cem>Kitchen Counter at Contigo\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we wind up 2008, I will be happily ringing in the new year and looking forward to the new restaurants that 2009 will bring to San Francisco. Here are three restaurants specifically that I cannot wait for:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://contigosf.com/\">Contigo.\u003c/a> Contigo is being opened by a friend -- Brett Emerson from \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/\">In Praise of Sardines\u003c/a>. Emerson will be going to be serving food inspired by Barcelona with locally grown products. The restaurant will be located at 24th and Castro in Noe Valley. I saw a sneak peek of the beautiful space a few days ago, and cannot wait to see the restaurant in action in early 2009.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urbino.\u003c/strong> Urbino will be the third restaurant to be opened in San Francisco by the group that brought us \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com\">SPQR\u003c/a>. It will be a 130-seat restaurant located in Dogpatch and focusing on Italian food from the Le Marche region. You can get an idea of the type of food by checking out this Food and Wine recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/prosciutto-cheese-piadina-butternut-squash-pecorino-piadina\">piadine (flatbread sandwiches)\u003c/a> from chef and co-owner Nate Appleman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Heaven's Dog.\u003c/strong> In January, we can look forward to a new restaurant from Charles Phan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame. Heaven's Dog will be located in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.somagrand.com/\">SOMA Grand\u003c/a> tower. The restaurant will feature Chinese food and noodles, along with a star bartending team including Jackie Patterson, Thad Vogler, and others. You can see the full bartending line up at \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2008/12/san-franciscos-next-allstar-bar.html\">Alcademics\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next week, I'll be releasing my Top 10 Tastes of 2008 -- a list which I also wrote in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/26/top-10-tastes-of-2006/\">2006\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/12/25/top-10-tastes-of-2007-it-was-a-very-meaty-year/\">2007\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As we wind up 2008, I will be happily ringing in the new year and looking forward to the new restaurants that 2009 will bring to San Francisco. Here are three restaurants specifically that I cannot wait for: \u003ca href=\"http://contigosf.com/\">Contigo.\u003c/a> Contigo is being opened by a friend -- Brett Emerson from \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/\">In Praise of Sardines\u003c/a>. \u003cstrong>Urbino.\u003c/strong> Urbino will be the third restaurant to be opened in San Francisco by the group that brought us \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com\">SPQR\u003c/a>. \u003cstrong>Heaven's Dog.\u003c/strong> In January, we can look forward to a new restaurant from Charles Phan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1230067165,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":8,"wordCount":266},"headData":{"title":"Restaurant Openings in 2009 | KQED","description":"As we wind up 2008, I will be happily ringing in the new year and looking forward to the new restaurants that 2009 will bring to San Francisco. Here are three restaurants specifically that I cannot wait for: Contigo. Contigo is being opened by a friend -- Brett Emerson from In Praise of Sardines. Urbino. Urbino will be the third restaurant to be opened in San Francisco by the group that brought us A16 and SPQR. Heaven's Dog. In January, we can look forward to a new restaurant from Charles Phan of Slanted Door fame. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Restaurant Openings in 2009","datePublished":"2008-12-23T19:34:26.000Z","dateModified":"2008-12-23T21:19:25.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"1743 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/12/23/restaurant-openings-in-2009/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/12/23/restaurant-openings-in-2009/","disqusTitle":"Restaurant Openings in 2009","path":"/bayareabites/1743/restaurant-openings-in-2009","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/83096974@N00/2945260416/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/12/kitchen-contigo-400.jpg\" alt=\"kitchen counter at Contigo\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/83096974@N00/2945260416/\"> \u003cem>Kitchen Counter at Contigo\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we wind up 2008, I will be happily ringing in the new year and looking forward to the new restaurants that 2009 will bring to San Francisco. Here are three restaurants specifically that I cannot wait for:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://contigosf.com/\">Contigo.\u003c/a> Contigo is being opened by a friend -- Brett Emerson from \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/\">In Praise of Sardines\u003c/a>. Emerson will be going to be serving food inspired by Barcelona with locally grown products. The restaurant will be located at 24th and Castro in Noe Valley. I saw a sneak peek of the beautiful space a few days ago, and cannot wait to see the restaurant in action in early 2009.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urbino.\u003c/strong> Urbino will be the third restaurant to be opened in San Francisco by the group that brought us \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com\">SPQR\u003c/a>. It will be a 130-seat restaurant located in Dogpatch and focusing on Italian food from the Le Marche region. You can get an idea of the type of food by checking out this Food and Wine recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/prosciutto-cheese-piadina-butternut-squash-pecorino-piadina\">piadine (flatbread sandwiches)\u003c/a> from chef and co-owner Nate Appleman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Heaven's Dog.\u003c/strong> In January, we can look forward to a new restaurant from Charles Phan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame. Heaven's Dog will be located in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.somagrand.com/\">SOMA Grand\u003c/a> tower. The restaurant will feature Chinese food and noodles, along with a star bartending team including Jackie Patterson, Thad Vogler, and others. You can see the full bartending line up at \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2008/12/san-franciscos-next-allstar-bar.html\">Alcademics\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next week, I'll be releasing my Top 10 Tastes of 2008 -- a list which I also wrote in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/26/top-10-tastes-of-2006/\">2006\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/12/25/top-10-tastes-of-2007-it-was-a-very-meaty-year/\">2007\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1743/restaurant-openings-in-2009","authors":["5019"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_603","bayareabites_1676"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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