To Eat Authentically Irish This St. Patrick's Day, Go For The Butter
Homemade Cultured Compound Butter is a Festive Addition to the Thanksgiving Table
How The DIY Butter Trend Got Churning
Bar and Restaurant Themantics
Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown
How To Make Butter
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Regular butter is transformed through a sacred cooking process that evaporates the water and separates the milk solids. Known as “liquid gold” in India, this pure fat has been used for centuries for medicinal and ceremonial purposes. And it's prized in the kitchen for its high smoking point, nutty flavor and digestibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103398\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-400x426.jpg\" alt=\"A jar of liquid gold.\" width=\"400\" height=\"426\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-400x426.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-800x851.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-1440x1532.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-1180x1256.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-960x1022.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A finished jar ghee, or \"liquid gold.\" \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I recently spent the afternoon in the kitchen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thespicewhisperer.com\" target=\"_blank\">Vinita Jacinto\u003c/a>, a chef and former instructor at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco/about-california-culinary-academy\" target=\"_blank\">California Culinary Academy\u003c/a>, to learn more about ghee. I first heard raves about ghee from my fellow yoga teacher friends. But when I saw the steep price tag of a jar at Whole Foods, my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/13/an-illustrated-guide-benefits-to-soaking-and-sprouting-legumes-grains-and-seeds/\" target=\"_blank\">DIY instincts\u003c/a> kicked in and I vowed to learn how to make it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ancestral roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Jacinto’s home in El Cerrito, she welcomed me with a big hug and handed me a mug of her homemade chai tea. As we sipped our drinks, Jacinto recounted her childhood memories in Calcutta, India. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Growing up, we saw the whole dairy cycle. Twice a day, the milkman came to our house and brought fresh milk. If I hugged the jar, it was still warm because he milked it 20 minutes before coming to my door. Right after the milk arrived, it was boiled; the cream that rose to the top was collected. That cream is churned to make fresh butter and that butter is then made into ghee. Every day we had fresh butter on the table and every week fresh ghee.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103399\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-400x400.jpg\" alt=\"Each time Jacinto dances through the sacred tradition of making ghee, she is reminded of her home far away and feels golden threads connecting to her family and roots.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103399\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-75x75.jpg 75w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic.jpg 720w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When Jacinto dances through the sacred tradition of making ghee, she's reminded of her native country and feels golden threads connecting to her family and roots. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jacinto explained that in India, cows are sacred beings, thus dairy foods are also treated with the utmost respect. In her household, there were designated pots that were used to only boil milk and make ghee. The usual multitasking in the kitchen was paused during the ghee making process. And to further honor the sacredness of the fat, the elder women of the family would traditionally chant \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantra\" target=\"_blank\">mantras\u003c/a>\u003c/em> while cooking to infuse the liquid gold with blessings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ghee is not only used in the kitchen. Jacinto added that it served as fuel \"during festivals [in India] when you want to light the lamps.\" The golden fat has a very long shelf life, and she described the 30-year-old jar of ghee in her childhood home reserved solely for medicinal purposes. There's also the tradition of mothers handing down a jar to their daughters after marriage so that they'll be prepared to be a caretaker of their families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The ritual in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I followed Jacinto into the kitchen and she handed me a finished jar of ghee. I opened the lid and breathed in the scent of sweet caramel; no wonder it’s called liquid gold. We unwrapped two sticks of unsalted organic butter and placed them in a saucepan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditionally, you begin the cooking process on low heat because you don’t want the butter to catch on the bottom on the pan,\" said Jacinto. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1440x1080.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto honors the ghee by allowing the process to be a meditative ritual. There are no other dishes cooking or activities going on at the same time, her full attention is on the butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-103404\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto honors the ghee by allowing the process to be a meditative ritual. No other dishes are cooking and other activities are paused; her full attention is on the butter. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As we flowed into a meditative state while cooking, I heard a popping noise coming from the saucepan that sounded like popcorn. Jacinto told me that this is the sound of the water content of the butter evaporating away. She pointed out how the white foam looked like clumpy clouds and told me to keep watching the buttery sky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the sticks of butter were fully melted, Jacinto raised the heat to medium to speed up the evaporation process. She tilted the saucepan to get a glimpse of the bottom of the pan to make sure the butter wasn’t burning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1440x1080.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto tilts the pot to show me the caramelized milk solids that look like black speckles stuck to the bottom.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-103409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto tilted the pot to show me the caramelized milk solids that had collected at the bottom. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The butter cooked for 10-15 minutes, and I noticed the sound coming from the pot had changed to a gurgle. The buttery sky had also changed to a single, uniform cloud of foam -- signs that the ghee was done. Jacinto told me that each family has their own color preference for ghee. The darker it is, the nuttier the flavor. We aimed for a medium golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103410\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-400x533.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto plans to use the pot with ghee residue to make lentils for dinner. Its nutty flavor enhances stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or even a simple piece of toast.\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103410\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto planned to use this pot and its ghee residue to make lentils for dinner. Its nutty flavor enhances stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or even a simple piece of toast. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We let the liquid gold cool for 5 minutes and poured it into a clean glass jar for its final cooling and storage. You can also pour the liquid through a fine metal strainer to filter out the milk solids if you want your ghee to be “pure.” Many cooks also use a cheesecloth to strain ghee, but Jacinto told me that she avoids it because too much ghee will be absorbed into the material. \"This food is sacred, so it is important to me not to waste any of it,\" she said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked Jacinto about ghee's current popularity, evidenced by the ubiquitous presence of expensive jars sold in many health food stores. She told me that fat is making a general comeback after years of being deemed \"bad.\" And over the last decade, yoga's popularity ushered in more curiosity about Ayurveda, where \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/06/09/ayurveda-a-journey-towards-balance-using-food-as-medicine/\" target=\"_blank\">ghee holds a vital role\u003c/a>. Jacinto hopes this increasing enthusiasm for yoga culture encourages people to make ghee at home so they can also enjoy the culinary and spiritual benefits of this magical fat.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Ghee, or Indian clarified butter, has been used for centuries for medicinal and ceremonial purposes -- and it's prized in the kitchen for its high smoking point, nutty flavor and easy digestibility.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1448603980,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":986},"headData":{"title":"DIY: Make Your Own Jar of Ghee, aka \"Liquid Gold\" | KQED","description":"Ghee, or Indian clarified butter, has been used for centuries for medicinal and ceremonial purposes -- and it's prized in the kitchen for its high smoking point, nutty flavor and easy digestibility.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"DIY: Make Your Own Jar of Ghee, aka \"Liquid Gold\"","datePublished":"2015-11-18T15:00:20.000Z","dateModified":"2015-11-27T05:59:40.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"103395 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=103395","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/18/diy-make-your-own-jar-of-ghee-or-liquid-gold/","disqusTitle":"DIY: Make Your Own Jar of Ghee, aka \"Liquid Gold\"","path":"/bayareabites/103395/diy-make-your-own-jar-of-ghee-or-liquid-gold","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Ghee, or Indian clarified unsalted butter, is delicious and easy to make at home. Regular butter is transformed through a sacred cooking process that evaporates the water and separates the milk solids. Known as “liquid gold” in India, this pure fat has been used for centuries for medicinal and ceremonial purposes. And it's prized in the kitchen for its high smoking point, nutty flavor and digestibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103398\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-400x426.jpg\" alt=\"A jar of liquid gold.\" width=\"400\" height=\"426\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-400x426.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-800x851.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-1440x1532.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-1180x1256.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-6-960x1022.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A finished jar ghee, or \"liquid gold.\" \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I recently spent the afternoon in the kitchen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thespicewhisperer.com\" target=\"_blank\">Vinita Jacinto\u003c/a>, a chef and former instructor at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco/about-california-culinary-academy\" target=\"_blank\">California Culinary Academy\u003c/a>, to learn more about ghee. I first heard raves about ghee from my fellow yoga teacher friends. But when I saw the steep price tag of a jar at Whole Foods, my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/13/an-illustrated-guide-benefits-to-soaking-and-sprouting-legumes-grains-and-seeds/\" target=\"_blank\">DIY instincts\u003c/a> kicked in and I vowed to learn how to make it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ancestral roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Jacinto’s home in El Cerrito, she welcomed me with a big hug and handed me a mug of her homemade chai tea. As we sipped our drinks, Jacinto recounted her childhood memories in Calcutta, India. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Growing up, we saw the whole dairy cycle. Twice a day, the milkman came to our house and brought fresh milk. If I hugged the jar, it was still warm because he milked it 20 minutes before coming to my door. Right after the milk arrived, it was boiled; the cream that rose to the top was collected. That cream is churned to make fresh butter and that butter is then made into ghee. Every day we had fresh butter on the table and every week fresh ghee.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103399\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-400x400.jpg\" alt=\"Each time Jacinto dances through the sacred tradition of making ghee, she is reminded of her home far away and feels golden threads connecting to her family and roots.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103399\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic-75x75.jpg 75w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/vinita-pic.jpg 720w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When Jacinto dances through the sacred tradition of making ghee, she's reminded of her native country and feels golden threads connecting to her family and roots. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jacinto explained that in India, cows are sacred beings, thus dairy foods are also treated with the utmost respect. In her household, there were designated pots that were used to only boil milk and make ghee. The usual multitasking in the kitchen was paused during the ghee making process. And to further honor the sacredness of the fat, the elder women of the family would traditionally chant \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantra\" target=\"_blank\">mantras\u003c/a>\u003c/em> while cooking to infuse the liquid gold with blessings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ghee is not only used in the kitchen. Jacinto added that it served as fuel \"during festivals [in India] when you want to light the lamps.\" The golden fat has a very long shelf life, and she described the 30-year-old jar of ghee in her childhood home reserved solely for medicinal purposes. There's also the tradition of mothers handing down a jar to their daughters after marriage so that they'll be prepared to be a caretaker of their families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The ritual in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I followed Jacinto into the kitchen and she handed me a finished jar of ghee. I opened the lid and breathed in the scent of sweet caramel; no wonder it’s called liquid gold. We unwrapped two sticks of unsalted organic butter and placed them in a saucepan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditionally, you begin the cooking process on low heat because you don’t want the butter to catch on the bottom on the pan,\" said Jacinto. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1440x1080.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto honors the ghee by allowing the process to be a meditative ritual. There are no other dishes cooking or activities going on at the same time, her full attention is on the butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-103404\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/step1ghee-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto honors the ghee by allowing the process to be a meditative ritual. No other dishes are cooking and other activities are paused; her full attention is on the butter. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As we flowed into a meditative state while cooking, I heard a popping noise coming from the saucepan that sounded like popcorn. Jacinto told me that this is the sound of the water content of the butter evaporating away. She pointed out how the white foam looked like clumpy clouds and told me to keep watching the buttery sky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the sticks of butter were fully melted, Jacinto raised the heat to medium to speed up the evaporation process. She tilted the saucepan to get a glimpse of the bottom of the pan to make sure the butter wasn’t burning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1440x1080.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto tilts the pot to show me the caramelized milk solids that look like black speckles stuck to the bottom.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-103409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic-4-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto tilted the pot to show me the caramelized milk solids that had collected at the bottom. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The butter cooked for 10-15 minutes, and I noticed the sound coming from the pot had changed to a gurgle. The buttery sky had also changed to a single, uniform cloud of foam -- signs that the ghee was done. Jacinto told me that each family has their own color preference for ghee. The darker it is, the nuttier the flavor. We aimed for a medium golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103410\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-400x533.jpg\" alt=\"Jacinto plans to use the pot with ghee residue to make lentils for dinner. Its nutty flavor enhances stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or even a simple piece of toast.\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103410\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/pic5-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacinto planned to use this pot and its ghee residue to make lentils for dinner. Its nutty flavor enhances stir-fried vegetables, scrambled eggs or even a simple piece of toast. \u003ccite>(Lila Volkas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We let the liquid gold cool for 5 minutes and poured it into a clean glass jar for its final cooling and storage. You can also pour the liquid through a fine metal strainer to filter out the milk solids if you want your ghee to be “pure.” Many cooks also use a cheesecloth to strain ghee, but Jacinto told me that she avoids it because too much ghee will be absorbed into the material. \"This food is sacred, so it is important to me not to waste any of it,\" she said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked Jacinto about ghee's current popularity, evidenced by the ubiquitous presence of expensive jars sold in many health food stores. She told me that fat is making a general comeback after years of being deemed \"bad.\" And over the last decade, yoga's popularity ushered in more curiosity about Ayurveda, where \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/06/09/ayurveda-a-journey-towards-balance-using-food-as-medicine/\" target=\"_blank\">ghee holds a vital role\u003c/a>. Jacinto hopes this increasing enthusiasm for yoga culture encourages people to make ghee at home so they can also enjoy the culinary and spiritual benefits of this magical fat.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/103395/diy-make-your-own-jar-of-ghee-or-liquid-gold","authors":["5404"],"categories":["bayareabites_12493","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_12869","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_15082","bayareabites_15081","bayareabites_8435","bayareabites_15083"],"featImg":"bayareabites_103408","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_94059":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_94059","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"94059","score":null,"sort":[1426622429000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patricks-day-go-for-the-butter","title":"To Eat Authentically Irish This St. Patrick's Day, Go For The Butter","publishDate":1426622429,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94060\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1197px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94060\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg\" alt=\"Butter labels from Irish creameries operating in the 1970s. Photo: Roland Paschhoff/Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"1197\" height=\"897\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg 1197w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1197px) 100vw, 1197px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter labels from Irish creameries operating in the 1970s. Photo: Roland Paschhoff/Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393565373/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patrick-s-day-go-for-the-butter\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/17/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As scholarly buzzkills have long told us, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/is-corned-beef-really-irish-2839144/?no-ist\">corned beef isn't really Irish\u003c/a>. So what to do if you want a taste of the Emerald Isle on St. Patrick's Day? Instead of green, maybe look for yellow — a pat of Irish butter. Although most Americans are familiar with images of Ireland's rolling green hills, few realize that those hills are the secret to a deliciously buttery empire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It goes back to the Emerald Isle,\" explains \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ifj_pat\">Pat O'Keeffe\u003c/a>, deputy editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmersjournal.ie/\">Irish Farmers Journal\u003c/a>. \"The green land is our competitive advantage. Those rolling green hills are great for growing grass. You need frequent and regular rainfall, and we've got plenty of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The actual Irish cows themselves aren't that different from their American counterparts — in both countries, over 90 percent of milkers are Holstein-Friesians, those iconic black-and-whites. What it comes down to is what the cows are eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish cows graze on those temperate hills from March to October, and are only milked during those months. (A small number — O'Keeffe estimates 10 percent — are milked year-round for drinking, or fluid, milk, but butter's the real business.) Grass-fed milk produces a rich butter, yellow with natural beta carotene. The polyunsaturated fats in fresh grass also make for pats that are softer than those from hay or grain — all the better for spreading across your scone. Like most European dairy, Irish cream also has a higher butterfat content, creating soft butter with a richer mouthfeel. And the end result?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94061\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94061\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg\" alt=\"Holstein-Friesian dairy cows make their way towards pasture in County Cavan, Ireland. Irish cows graze on the country's rolling green hills from March to October, and most are only milked during those months. Photo: Tom Stoddart/Getty Images\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Holstein-Friesian dairy cows make their way towards pasture in County Cavan, Ireland. Irish cows graze on the country's rolling green hills from March to October, and most are only milked during those months. Photo: Tom Stoddart/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I have to be careful for an American audience,\" Pat O'Keeffe hedges for a diplomatic moment, \"but we'd say it's [like the difference between] chalk and cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And those feelings of nostalgia (and unabashed superiority) about Irish butter can run deep, even after leaving Ireland. When Dublin-born Lisa Jacobs' family emigrated to the United States, her parents continued to seek out Irish butter. And when she dropped out of law school to start making cheese in the similarly green-and-rainy Pacific Northwest, her father not-so-gently suggested that \u003ca href=\"http://www.jacobscreamery.com/\">Jacobs Creamery\u003c/a> make him some good, Irish-style butter. Jacobs even smuggled some grass and wildflower seed to cultivate the cows' fields, seeing if she could capture some of that Irish \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> in her hand-churned product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But far before this modern evangelism, Irish butter had its fans. Ancient stashes of butter dating back \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-27143838\">1,000 years\u003c/a> — and up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbcnews.com/id/32630695/ns/technology_and_science-science/t/-year-old-butter-discovered-ireland/\">3,000 years\u003c/a> — are routinely dug out of the Irish peat bogs. Scholars speculate that the butter was either a high-value offering, buried ritualistically, or else a foodstuff stored in the bog as a primitive refrigeration technique. (Either way, the phenomenon is given the irresistible term \"bog butter.\") Although this millennia-old butter isn't quite ready for toast, butter \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a long-lived product. Which means it can be shipped — and it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94062\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94062\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg\" alt=\"Butter samples from the first quarter of the 20th Century in Ireland. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-400x240.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-800x480.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-1440x864.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-1180x708.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-768x461.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-320x192.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter samples from the first quarter of the 20th Century in Ireland. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Cork butter was the first global food brand,\" explains Peter Foynes, director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.corkbutter.museum/\">Cork Butter Museum\u003c/a> (and yes, there is a butter museum).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cork Butter Exchange was established in the late 18th century, and in its day it was the largest butter market in the world. Irish butter was tied to British expansion, as buckets made their way onto ships loaded for the sugar routes, or crossed the Atlantic to feed troops fighting to quell the American Revolution. Hundreds of thousands of casks left Ireland every year, heading everywhere from Australia to Brazil, France to the West Indies. Miles of \"butter roads\" helped even remote rural farmers bring their butter into the global marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after this peak — Foynes puts it in the 1870s — Irish butter production began to trail off, due to a number of factors. Colonies had steadily been establishing their own agriculture, rendering Irish exports less important. But the biggest blow came in 1879, with the mechanical separator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94063\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg\" alt=\"Butter is inspected inside a creamery in Dublin, Ireland, during the first quarter of the 20th century. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-400x468.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-800x935.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-1440x1684.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-1180x1380.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-768x898.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-320x374.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter is inspected inside a creamery in Dublin, Ireland, during the first quarter of the 20th century. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even as farmers mechanized the butter-churning process, they had long been hampered by separating — patiently waiting for the to-be-churned cream to rise to the top (a process that takes 24 to 36 hours, depending upon the temperature). With the centrifuge-like mechanical separator, that wait time is eliminated. Unfortunately, Irish farmers were late adopters; by the time they mechanized, the industry was 20 years behind. By the early 20th century, the Cork Butter Market had closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But luckily for lovers of good Irish butter, its grass-fed richness has made a comeback. Farms banded together to form the \u003ca href=\"http://kerrygoldusa.com/heritage/irish-dairy-board/\">Irish Dairy Board\u003c/a> in 1961, which developed the popular Kerrygold Irish butter. (The company says it's now the No. 4 butter in the U.S.) And the country's EU membership in the following decades brought with it milk subsidies, laying the bedrock for increased dairy production (and even overproduction, leading to established quotas). Later fears of saturated fats hit the Irish butter industry, as they did all dairy, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275376259/the-full-fat-paradox-whole-milk-may-keep-us-lean\">recent data\u003c/a> seems to be moving consumers beyond those margarine moments, and back to the full, sunny swipe of butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of the science — or alleged science — has changed,\" notes O'Keeffe. But like a good Irishman, he was never swayed. \"It was always a good product. Butter today is still as good as it was.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with the 30-year-old EU dairy quotas set to expire on April 1, this product could be on the brink of a new buttery era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From 3,000-year-old peat bogs to 19th-century Brazil to modern foodies, the love of Irish butter has spread far. The secret to Ireland's deliciously rich, creamy butter is in its rolling green hills.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1554250586,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":1026},"headData":{"title":"To Eat Authentically Irish This St. Patrick's Day, Go For The Butter | KQED","description":"From 3,000-year-old peat bogs to 19th-century Brazil to modern foodies, the love of Irish butter has spread far. The secret to Ireland's deliciously rich, creamy butter is in its rolling green hills.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"To Eat Authentically Irish This St. Patrick's Day, Go For The Butter","datePublished":"2015-03-17T20:00:29.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-03T00:16:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"94059 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=94059","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/17/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patricks-day-go-for-the-butter/","disqusTitle":"To Eat Authentically Irish This St. Patrick's Day, Go For The Butter","nprByline":"Deena Prichep","nprStoryId":"393565373","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=393565373&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393565373/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patrick-s-day-go-for-the-butter?ft=nprml&f=393565373","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 15:12:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 13:47:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 17 Mar 2015 15:12:58 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/94059/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patricks-day-go-for-the-butter","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94060\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1197px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94060\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg\" alt=\"Butter labels from Irish creameries operating in the 1970s. Photo: Roland Paschhoff/Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"1197\" height=\"897\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74.jpg 1197w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/walllowres-1e39a90bfdb3e3fa2214fde62b88be441d4b1d74-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1197px) 100vw, 1197px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter labels from Irish creameries operating in the 1970s. Photo: Roland Paschhoff/Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/03/17/393565373/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patrick-s-day-go-for-the-butter\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/17/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As scholarly buzzkills have long told us, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/is-corned-beef-really-irish-2839144/?no-ist\">corned beef isn't really Irish\u003c/a>. So what to do if you want a taste of the Emerald Isle on St. Patrick's Day? Instead of green, maybe look for yellow — a pat of Irish butter. Although most Americans are familiar with images of Ireland's rolling green hills, few realize that those hills are the secret to a deliciously buttery empire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It goes back to the Emerald Isle,\" explains \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ifj_pat\">Pat O'Keeffe\u003c/a>, deputy editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmersjournal.ie/\">Irish Farmers Journal\u003c/a>. \"The green land is our competitive advantage. Those rolling green hills are great for growing grass. You need frequent and regular rainfall, and we've got plenty of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The actual Irish cows themselves aren't that different from their American counterparts — in both countries, over 90 percent of milkers are Holstein-Friesians, those iconic black-and-whites. What it comes down to is what the cows are eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish cows graze on those temperate hills from March to October, and are only milked during those months. (A small number — O'Keeffe estimates 10 percent — are milked year-round for drinking, or fluid, milk, but butter's the real business.) Grass-fed milk produces a rich butter, yellow with natural beta carotene. The polyunsaturated fats in fresh grass also make for pats that are softer than those from hay or grain — all the better for spreading across your scone. Like most European dairy, Irish cream also has a higher butterfat content, creating soft butter with a richer mouthfeel. And the end result?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94061\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94061\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg\" alt=\"Holstein-Friesian dairy cows make their way towards pasture in County Cavan, Ireland. Irish cows graze on the country's rolling green hills from March to October, and most are only milked during those months. Photo: Tom Stoddart/Getty Images\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/96849468_edit_custom-ee85200a375e93a387fdf1379927d79bba5071c4-e1426622183884-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Holstein-Friesian dairy cows make their way towards pasture in County Cavan, Ireland. Irish cows graze on the country's rolling green hills from March to October, and most are only milked during those months. Photo: Tom Stoddart/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I have to be careful for an American audience,\" Pat O'Keeffe hedges for a diplomatic moment, \"but we'd say it's [like the difference between] chalk and cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And those feelings of nostalgia (and unabashed superiority) about Irish butter can run deep, even after leaving Ireland. When Dublin-born Lisa Jacobs' family emigrated to the United States, her parents continued to seek out Irish butter. And when she dropped out of law school to start making cheese in the similarly green-and-rainy Pacific Northwest, her father not-so-gently suggested that \u003ca href=\"http://www.jacobscreamery.com/\">Jacobs Creamery\u003c/a> make him some good, Irish-style butter. Jacobs even smuggled some grass and wildflower seed to cultivate the cows' fields, seeing if she could capture some of that Irish \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> in her hand-churned product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But far before this modern evangelism, Irish butter had its fans. Ancient stashes of butter dating back \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-27143838\">1,000 years\u003c/a> — and up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbcnews.com/id/32630695/ns/technology_and_science-science/t/-year-old-butter-discovered-ireland/\">3,000 years\u003c/a> — are routinely dug out of the Irish peat bogs. Scholars speculate that the butter was either a high-value offering, buried ritualistically, or else a foodstuff stored in the bog as a primitive refrigeration technique. (Either way, the phenomenon is given the irresistible term \"bog butter.\") Although this millennia-old butter isn't quite ready for toast, butter \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a long-lived product. Which means it can be shipped — and it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94062\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94062\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg\" alt=\"Butter samples from the first quarter of the 20th Century in Ireland. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-400x240.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-800x480.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-1440x864.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-1180x708.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-768x461.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-12_custom-bb5b80835c39673fa46e6cd7b5017d50c64bfa22-e1426622272507-320x192.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter samples from the first quarter of the 20th Century in Ireland. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Cork butter was the first global food brand,\" explains Peter Foynes, director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.corkbutter.museum/\">Cork Butter Museum\u003c/a> (and yes, there is a butter museum).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cork Butter Exchange was established in the late 18th century, and in its day it was the largest butter market in the world. Irish butter was tied to British expansion, as buckets made their way onto ships loaded for the sugar routes, or crossed the Atlantic to feed troops fighting to quell the American Revolution. Hundreds of thousands of casks left Ireland every year, heading everywhere from Australia to Brazil, France to the West Indies. Miles of \"butter roads\" helped even remote rural farmers bring their butter into the global marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after this peak — Foynes puts it in the 1870s — Irish butter production began to trail off, due to a number of factors. Colonies had steadily been establishing their own agriculture, rendering Irish exports less important. But the biggest blow came in 1879, with the mechanical separator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_94063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-94063\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg\" alt=\"Butter is inspected inside a creamery in Dublin, Ireland, during the first quarter of the 20th century. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\" width=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-400x468.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-800x935.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-1440x1684.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-1180x1380.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-768x898.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/ci-30_custom-9efe421ba02886463e333f782c7e1d1ed2152e23-e1426622323144-320x374.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter is inspected inside a creamery in Dublin, Ireland, during the first quarter of the 20th century. Photo: Cork Butter Museum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even as farmers mechanized the butter-churning process, they had long been hampered by separating — patiently waiting for the to-be-churned cream to rise to the top (a process that takes 24 to 36 hours, depending upon the temperature). With the centrifuge-like mechanical separator, that wait time is eliminated. Unfortunately, Irish farmers were late adopters; by the time they mechanized, the industry was 20 years behind. By the early 20th century, the Cork Butter Market had closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But luckily for lovers of good Irish butter, its grass-fed richness has made a comeback. Farms banded together to form the \u003ca href=\"http://kerrygoldusa.com/heritage/irish-dairy-board/\">Irish Dairy Board\u003c/a> in 1961, which developed the popular Kerrygold Irish butter. (The company says it's now the No. 4 butter in the U.S.) And the country's EU membership in the following decades brought with it milk subsidies, laying the bedrock for increased dairy production (and even overproduction, leading to established quotas). Later fears of saturated fats hit the Irish butter industry, as they did all dairy, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275376259/the-full-fat-paradox-whole-milk-may-keep-us-lean\">recent data\u003c/a> seems to be moving consumers beyond those margarine moments, and back to the full, sunny swipe of butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of the science — or alleged science — has changed,\" notes O'Keeffe. But like a good Irishman, he was never swayed. \"It was always a good product. Butter today is still as good as it was.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with the 30-year-old EU dairy quotas set to expire on April 1, this product could be on the brink of a new buttery era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/94059/to-eat-authentically-irish-this-st-patricks-day-go-for-the-butter","authors":["byline_bayareabites_94059"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_123"],"featImg":"bayareabites_94060","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_90334":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_90334","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"90334","score":null,"sort":[1416879654000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"homemade-cultured-compound-butter-is-a-festive-addition-to-the-thanksgiving-table","title":"Homemade Cultured Compound Butter is a Festive Addition to the Thanksgiving Table","publishDate":1416879654,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Thanksgiving Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":15012,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90348\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-medley.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90348\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-medley.jpg\" alt=\"Three variations of compound butter that will make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three variations of compound butter that will make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Homemade butter is shockingly easy to make, but the uncultured spread is only as good as the cream you're using. By culturing the cream before churning, you can add enormous depth of flavor to even the least fancy bottles of cream. It adds only a couple of extra days to the planning time and absolutely no extra work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"4JXRTBxVUiWid9z3qMF8uwsT7wyGmDmx\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is a little extra work is to take your butter up another notch by adding in chopped herbs and spices — even homemade pumpkin pie spice — for a festive addition to the Thanksgiving table. But this final step takes only a few minutes, and it is easy to add just about anything you’d like to the freshly churned butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I know I just said that you can use un-fancy cream to make homemade butter, but I still like to start with a good, robust cream. The only caveat to keep in mind when choosing the cream is that you want to pick a product that has been “pasteurized,” not “ultra-pasteurized.” Pasteurized dairy has only been heated up to 161 degrees, whereas ultra-pasteurized dairy gets blasted with 280 degrees of heat. Those extra degrees can make a huge difference when trying to culture the cream, so it’s worth it to look for the pasteurized label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"All you need to make cultured butter is cream, yogurt, and a bit of time. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need to make cultured butter is cream, yogurt, and a bit of time. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Combine one quart of cream with about 1/3 cup of plain yogurt. Make sure you’re buying yogurt with live cultures (and nothing else) added. It’s these cultures that will give your butter its pleasant tang. Put the cream-yogurt mixture in a large glass canning jar and cover the top with a clean dish towel. Secure with a rubber band and place the jar in a warm-ish place for 1 to 2 days. Since the temperatures are (finally) dropping, you may need to let the cream sit for an extra 12 hours or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll know the cream is ready to churn once it has thickened and takes on a tangy flavor. Depending on the cream and the yogurt you’ve used, the cream may be as thick as sour cream, or it may be runnier, like European-style yogurt. Either way, you’re looking for a subtle cultured tang. At that point, cover the jar with a lid and transfer it to the fridge for a few hours to chill. You can leave it in the fridge overnight if you’d like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the cream is cold, transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. (It is possible to make butter with a whisk or a hand mixer, but it will be far more work and you will likely splatter buttermilk all over your counter.) Drape a kitchen towel over the mixer to cover the space above the mixer bowl. Turn the mixer on high and let it run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mixer will take the cream through soft peaks:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/soft-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90342\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/soft-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream whipped to soft peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"659\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream whipped to soft peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And stiff peaks:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/stiff-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/stiff-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream whipped to stiff peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream whipped to stiff peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the butterfat separates from the buttermilk. You’ll know the cream has separated when you hear the buttermilk splatter against the bowl and the towel starts to get wet. Turn the mixer off and take a look at the contents of the bowl. You should clearly see yellow butter clumped on the whisk and white buttermilk in the bowl, like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/separated-butter-in-bowl.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90341\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/separated-butter-in-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream fully separated into butter and buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream fully separated into butter and buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If the cream isn’t fully separated, let it run (re-cover the mixer with the towel) for another 30 seconds or so. Next, strain out the butter by pouring the butter and buttermilk through a fine mesh strainer lined with a clean kitchen towel or triple layer of cheesecloth. Place the strainer over a bowl to collect the buttermilk. It is delicious, and you should keep it for baking or drinking straight up. Once most of the visible buttermilk has drained off, gather the edges of the kitchen towel together and squeeze the butter to drain off more buttermilk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/straining-butter-1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90345\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/straining-butter-1.jpg\" alt=\"Let the butter drain through a clean dish towel first. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Let the butter drain through a clean dish towel first. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/squeezed-butter.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90343\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/squeezed-butter.jpg\" alt=\"Next, gather the edges of the towel, twist, and squeeze on the butter to release more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"643\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Next, gather the edges of the towel, twist, and squeeze on the butter to release more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The butter may now look completely dry, but there’s still another step to take to remove hidden buttermilk: washing. Transfer the butter to a large bowl and cover it with about a half a cup of super cold ice water. Reach into the bowl and gently knead and fold the butter. You’ll see the water turn cloudy — that’s the buttermilk. Pour off the cloudy water and repeat the washing process until the water stays clear. Continue to knead the butter (without water) to expel any drops of water remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90346\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/washing-butter.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90346\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/washing-butter.jpg\" alt=\"Knead the butter in cold water to expel even more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Knead the butter in cold water to expel even more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now you’ve got butter! You can keep it totally plain, add a little salt, or go crazy with different flavorings. Flavored butter is also known as “compound” butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve provided three variations on compound butter that will all make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Each is scaled to be made with 4 tablespoons of butter, or 2 ounces if you’re using a scale to measure. You can make all three with this batch of butter, and still have some plain leftover for everyday use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chili-honey butter adds surprising heat to sautéed vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/honey-chili-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90339\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/honey-chili-final.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cultured butter with honey and chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cultured butter with honey and chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maple-spice butter will satisfy all of the pumpkin pie spice lovers at the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/maple-spice-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90340\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/maple-spice-final.jpg\" alt=\"Maple-spice butter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"672\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maple-spice butter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Savory garlic-herb butter is as fantastic smeared on a dinner roll as it is stuffed underneath turkey skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/herb-garlic-final-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/herb-garlic-final-2.jpg\" alt=\"Garlic-herb butter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"725\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garlic-herb butter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cultured Compound Butter\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10-12 ounces of butter and 2 cups of buttermilk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Each add-in is scaled for 2 ounces (4 tablespoon) of butter. If you would like to make more of any flavor, increase the amount of butter used appropriately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Butter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 quart pasteurized heavy whipping cream (not ultra-pasteurized)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup plain yogurt with active cultures\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt, optional (if not making compound butter)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Add-ins\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Chili-Honey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maple-Spice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/8 teaspoon allspice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garlic-Herb\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 clove garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the cream and yogurt in large glass jar and stir to combine. Cover the jar with a clean kitchen towel and place jar in a warm area until the cream has thickened and become tangy, 24 to 48 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the cream has thickened, remove the kitchen towel, cover container with lid, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the butter: Pour the chilled cultured cream into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Drape a kitchen towel over the mixer to prevent splatter. Whip the cream on high until it separates into buttermilk and clumps of small, yellow beads of butter. This will take anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the butter through a clean kitchen towel-lined strainer. Gather the edges of the towel and twist to squeeze out more buttermilk from the butter. Transfer the butter to a clean large bowl and reserve the buttermilk for another use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Prepare about 4 cups of ice water in a large measuring cup. Pour about 1/2 cup of ice water over the butter. With the butter resting in the water, gently fold and knead butter to expel remaining buttermilk. Discard the milky liquid and repeat washing and kneading process until the water is clear. This should take 4 to 6 washes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After the final wash, discard any remaining water and continue to knead and fold the butter to squeeze out any remaining liquid. Discard any liquid remaining in the bowl.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To flavor the butter, measure out 2 ounces (4 tablespoons of butter) into a medium bowl. Choose your desired add-ins, and add them to the bowl with the butter. Use a fork to thoroughly whisk add-ins into the butter. Place in a small airtight container and refrigerate.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you’d like to make plain salted butter, add flaky sea salt to washed butter. Season with additional salt to taste. Place in a small airtight container or roll into a log shape and wrap in parchment paper. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Homemade butter is shockingly easy to make, but the uncultured spread is only as good as the cream you're using. By culturing the cream before churning, you can add enormous depth of flavor to even the least fancy bottles of cream. Kate Williams will show you how.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571963091,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1559},"headData":{"title":"Homemade Cultured Compound Butter is a Festive Addition to the Thanksgiving Table | KQED","description":"Homemade butter is shockingly easy to make, but the uncultured spread is only as good as the cream you're using. By culturing the cream before churning, you can add enormous depth of flavor to even the least fancy bottles of cream. Kate Williams will show you how.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Homemade Cultured Compound Butter is a Festive Addition to the Thanksgiving Table","datePublished":"2014-11-25T01:40:54.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-25T00:24:51.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"90334 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=90334","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/11/24/homemade-cultured-compound-butter-is-a-festive-addition-to-the-thanksgiving-table/","disqusTitle":"Homemade Cultured Compound Butter is a Festive Addition to the Thanksgiving Table","path":"/bayareabites/90334/homemade-cultured-compound-butter-is-a-festive-addition-to-the-thanksgiving-table","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90348\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-medley.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90348\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-medley.jpg\" alt=\"Three variations of compound butter that will make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three variations of compound butter that will make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Homemade butter is shockingly easy to make, but the uncultured spread is only as good as the cream you're using. By culturing the cream before churning, you can add enormous depth of flavor to even the least fancy bottles of cream. It adds only a couple of extra days to the planning time and absolutely no extra work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is a little extra work is to take your butter up another notch by adding in chopped herbs and spices — even homemade pumpkin pie spice — for a festive addition to the Thanksgiving table. But this final step takes only a few minutes, and it is easy to add just about anything you’d like to the freshly churned butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I know I just said that you can use un-fancy cream to make homemade butter, but I still like to start with a good, robust cream. The only caveat to keep in mind when choosing the cream is that you want to pick a product that has been “pasteurized,” not “ultra-pasteurized.” Pasteurized dairy has only been heated up to 161 degrees, whereas ultra-pasteurized dairy gets blasted with 280 degrees of heat. Those extra degrees can make a huge difference when trying to culture the cream, so it’s worth it to look for the pasteurized label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/butter-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"All you need to make cultured butter is cream, yogurt, and a bit of time. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need to make cultured butter is cream, yogurt, and a bit of time. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Combine one quart of cream with about 1/3 cup of plain yogurt. Make sure you’re buying yogurt with live cultures (and nothing else) added. It’s these cultures that will give your butter its pleasant tang. Put the cream-yogurt mixture in a large glass canning jar and cover the top with a clean dish towel. Secure with a rubber band and place the jar in a warm-ish place for 1 to 2 days. Since the temperatures are (finally) dropping, you may need to let the cream sit for an extra 12 hours or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll know the cream is ready to churn once it has thickened and takes on a tangy flavor. Depending on the cream and the yogurt you’ve used, the cream may be as thick as sour cream, or it may be runnier, like European-style yogurt. Either way, you’re looking for a subtle cultured tang. At that point, cover the jar with a lid and transfer it to the fridge for a few hours to chill. You can leave it in the fridge overnight if you’d like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the cream is cold, transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. (It is possible to make butter with a whisk or a hand mixer, but it will be far more work and you will likely splatter buttermilk all over your counter.) Drape a kitchen towel over the mixer to cover the space above the mixer bowl. Turn the mixer on high and let it run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mixer will take the cream through soft peaks:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/soft-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90342\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/soft-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream whipped to soft peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"659\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream whipped to soft peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And stiff peaks:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/stiff-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/stiff-peaks-on-whisk.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream whipped to stiff peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream whipped to stiff peaks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the butterfat separates from the buttermilk. You’ll know the cream has separated when you hear the buttermilk splatter against the bowl and the towel starts to get wet. Turn the mixer off and take a look at the contents of the bowl. You should clearly see yellow butter clumped on the whisk and white buttermilk in the bowl, like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/separated-butter-in-bowl.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90341\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/separated-butter-in-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Cultured cream fully separated into butter and buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cultured cream fully separated into butter and buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If the cream isn’t fully separated, let it run (re-cover the mixer with the towel) for another 30 seconds or so. Next, strain out the butter by pouring the butter and buttermilk through a fine mesh strainer lined with a clean kitchen towel or triple layer of cheesecloth. Place the strainer over a bowl to collect the buttermilk. It is delicious, and you should keep it for baking or drinking straight up. Once most of the visible buttermilk has drained off, gather the edges of the kitchen towel together and squeeze the butter to drain off more buttermilk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/straining-butter-1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90345\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/straining-butter-1.jpg\" alt=\"Let the butter drain through a clean dish towel first. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Let the butter drain through a clean dish towel first. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/squeezed-butter.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90343\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/squeezed-butter.jpg\" alt=\"Next, gather the edges of the towel, twist, and squeeze on the butter to release more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"643\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Next, gather the edges of the towel, twist, and squeeze on the butter to release more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The butter may now look completely dry, but there’s still another step to take to remove hidden buttermilk: washing. Transfer the butter to a large bowl and cover it with about a half a cup of super cold ice water. Reach into the bowl and gently knead and fold the butter. You’ll see the water turn cloudy — that’s the buttermilk. Pour off the cloudy water and repeat the washing process until the water stays clear. Continue to knead the butter (without water) to expel any drops of water remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90346\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/washing-butter.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90346\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/washing-butter.jpg\" alt=\"Knead the butter in cold water to expel even more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Knead the butter in cold water to expel even more buttermilk. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now you’ve got butter! You can keep it totally plain, add a little salt, or go crazy with different flavorings. Flavored butter is also known as “compound” butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve provided three variations on compound butter that will all make great additions to the Thanksgiving table. Each is scaled to be made with 4 tablespoons of butter, or 2 ounces if you’re using a scale to measure. You can make all three with this batch of butter, and still have some plain leftover for everyday use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chili-honey butter adds surprising heat to sautéed vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/honey-chili-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90339\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/honey-chili-final.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cultured butter with honey and chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cultured butter with honey and chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maple-spice butter will satisfy all of the pumpkin pie spice lovers at the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/maple-spice-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90340\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/maple-spice-final.jpg\" alt=\"Maple-spice butter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"672\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maple-spice butter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Savory garlic-herb butter is as fantastic smeared on a dinner roll as it is stuffed underneath turkey skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/herb-garlic-final-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-90338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/11/herb-garlic-final-2.jpg\" alt=\"Garlic-herb butter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"725\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garlic-herb butter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cultured Compound Butter\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10-12 ounces of butter and 2 cups of buttermilk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Each add-in is scaled for 2 ounces (4 tablespoon) of butter. If you would like to make more of any flavor, increase the amount of butter used appropriately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Butter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 quart pasteurized heavy whipping cream (not ultra-pasteurized)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup plain yogurt with active cultures\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt, optional (if not making compound butter)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Add-ins\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Chili-Honey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maple-Spice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/8 teaspoon allspice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garlic-Herb\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>(for 2 ounces of butter)\n\u003cli>1 clove garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the cream and yogurt in large glass jar and stir to combine. Cover the jar with a clean kitchen towel and place jar in a warm area until the cream has thickened and become tangy, 24 to 48 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the cream has thickened, remove the kitchen towel, cover container with lid, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the butter: Pour the chilled cultured cream into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Drape a kitchen towel over the mixer to prevent splatter. Whip the cream on high until it separates into buttermilk and clumps of small, yellow beads of butter. This will take anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the butter through a clean kitchen towel-lined strainer. Gather the edges of the towel and twist to squeeze out more buttermilk from the butter. Transfer the butter to a clean large bowl and reserve the buttermilk for another use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Prepare about 4 cups of ice water in a large measuring cup. Pour about 1/2 cup of ice water over the butter. With the butter resting in the water, gently fold and knead butter to expel remaining buttermilk. Discard the milky liquid and repeat washing and kneading process until the water is clear. This should take 4 to 6 washes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After the final wash, discard any remaining water and continue to knead and fold the butter to squeeze out any remaining liquid. Discard any liquid remaining in the bowl.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To flavor the butter, measure out 2 ounces (4 tablespoons of butter) into a medium bowl. Choose your desired add-ins, and add them to the bowl with the butter. Use a fork to thoroughly whisk add-ins into the butter. Place in a small airtight container and refrigerate.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you’d like to make plain salted butter, add flaky sea salt to washed butter. Season with additional salt to taste. Place in a small airtight container or roll into a log shape and wrap in parchment paper. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/90334/homemade-cultured-compound-butter-is-a-festive-addition-to-the-thanksgiving-table","authors":["5485"],"series":["bayareabites_15012"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_13949","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_2962"],"featImg":"bayareabites_90348","label":"bayareabites_15012"},"bayareabites_64654":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64654","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64654","score":null,"sort":[1373060196000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning","title":"How The DIY Butter Trend Got Churning","publishDate":1373060196,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Butter churning demos can be found at Claude Moore Colonial Farm, but DIYers are rediscovering the art, too. Photo Courtesy of Claude Moore Colonial Farm\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64659\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter churning demos can be found at Claude Moore Colonial Farm, but DIYers are rediscovering the art, too. Photo Courtesy of Claude Moore Colonial Farm\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/04/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/07/20130704_atc_04.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/04/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>(7/4/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Artisanal food fever is raging, and the latest sign is the rise in sales of old-fashioned butter churns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purveyor Glenda Lehman Ervin of \u003ca href=\"https://www.lehmans.com/default.aspx\">Lehman's \u003c/a>sells old-timey kitchen gadgets online and at her family's store in Kidron, Ohio. She says the clientele is quite diverse. \"There are lots of people interested,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just homesteaders, hipsters and do-it-yourself-minded foodies getting in on the hands-on pursuit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This hobby has now spread to 40-something suburbanites, as I learned a few weeks back when I received an email invite to a butter-churning party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the kids, and bring your own cream (BYOC), the note said. The host, my friend Jerry Casagrande, promised pingpong too, perhaps in anticipation that the churning might get old quick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you listen to my story, you'll appreciate that the technical feat of turning cream into butter is not much of a feat — if you follow the directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most important make-or-break steps is the 15 to 20 minutes of continuous, vigorous churning, which entails cranking a handle. This can be a real workout for the arms — if you actually stick with the task. \"It gets tiring,\" said Casagrande, the butter-churn owner. \"That's why it's good to have a butter-churning party.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64660\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butterchurning.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butterchurning.jpg\" alt=\"Riley Casagrande churns butter with her dad Jerry Casagrande. Photo: Allison Aubrey/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64660\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Riley Casagrande churns butter with her dad Jerry Casagrande. Photo: Allison Aubrey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, I was skeptical that the churn, which basically looks like a gallon-sized glass jar with a crank on top, would hold the crowd's attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it turned out that we gathered around the churn as if it was a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as a few of the kids at the party started beating a toy drum to the rhythm of the churning, the whole scene felt part ceremony, part circus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sounds like fun,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.considerthefork.com/?p=3\">Bee Wilson\u003c/a>, British food writer and author of the food-gadget history book \u003cem>Consider the Fo\u003c/em>rk, said when I told her about the party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She had some smart ideas about why simple crafts like butter-churning have become trendy again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's kind of a response to the computer age,\" Wilson says. And it is part of a larger, do-it-yourself food movement that includes everything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/29/196334312/SAVING-THE-SEASON\">canning\u003c/a>, to making homemade bitters or DIY \u003ca href=\"http://www.jsonline.com/features/food/making-wholemilk-ricotta-cheese-easier-than-expected-b48mkjk-190885501.html\">ricotta\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're just spending so much of our lives living in a sort-of virtual capacity, staring at things, that's it very therapeutic to do things again,\" Wilson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And these hands-on projects can help us get our hands off our tiny, electronic devices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, foodies don't need to go so low-tech to get freshly churned butter. Specialty shops and home-delivery dairies offer lots of options.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, hey, you can also whip up some butter using a stand-mixer \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/24/how-to-make-butter\">recipe\u003c/a> in a jiffy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, after an evening of butter-churning, were there any converts among the group? Well, Riley Casagrande, Jerry's daughter, seemed to sum it up best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kinda fun, like, as something special,\" Riley said. \"But if you had to do it all the time, it wouldn't be very fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seems it was the novelty that made it entertaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's not just homesteaders, hipsters and foodies getting into the hands-on pursuit. The butter-churning craze is part of a larger, do-it-yourself food movement that includes everything from canning, to making homemade bitters, a food writer says.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373060196,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":608},"headData":{"title":"How The DIY Butter Trend Got Churning | KQED","description":"It's not just homesteaders, hipsters and foodies getting into the hands-on pursuit. The butter-churning craze is part of a larger, do-it-yourself food movement that includes everything from canning, to making homemade bitters, a food writer says.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How The DIY Butter Trend Got Churning","datePublished":"2013-07-05T21:36:36.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-05T21:36:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"64654 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64654","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/05/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning/","disqusTitle":"How The DIY Butter Trend Got Churning","nprByline":"Allison Aubrey","nprStoryId":"198425906","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=198425906&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/04/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning?ft=3&f=198425906","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 04 Jul 2013 21:58:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 00:55:39 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/07/20130704_atc_04.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=198425906","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1198781775-1ea279.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=198425906","path":"/bayareabites/64654/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/07/20130704_atc_04.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=198425906","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Butter churning demos can be found at Claude Moore Colonial Farm, but DIYers are rediscovering the art, too. Photo Courtesy of Claude Moore Colonial Farm\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64659\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Butter churning demos can be found at Claude Moore Colonial Farm, but DIYers are rediscovering the art, too. Photo Courtesy of Claude Moore Colonial Farm\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/04/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/07/20130704_atc_04.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/04/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>(7/4/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Artisanal food fever is raging, and the latest sign is the rise in sales of old-fashioned butter churns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purveyor Glenda Lehman Ervin of \u003ca href=\"https://www.lehmans.com/default.aspx\">Lehman's \u003c/a>sells old-timey kitchen gadgets online and at her family's store in Kidron, Ohio. She says the clientele is quite diverse. \"There are lots of people interested,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just homesteaders, hipsters and do-it-yourself-minded foodies getting in on the hands-on pursuit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This hobby has now spread to 40-something suburbanites, as I learned a few weeks back when I received an email invite to a butter-churning party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the kids, and bring your own cream (BYOC), the note said. The host, my friend Jerry Casagrande, promised pingpong too, perhaps in anticipation that the churning might get old quick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you listen to my story, you'll appreciate that the technical feat of turning cream into butter is not much of a feat — if you follow the directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most important make-or-break steps is the 15 to 20 minutes of continuous, vigorous churning, which entails cranking a handle. This can be a real workout for the arms — if you actually stick with the task. \"It gets tiring,\" said Casagrande, the butter-churn owner. \"That's why it's good to have a butter-churning party.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64660\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butterchurning.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/butterchurning.jpg\" alt=\"Riley Casagrande churns butter with her dad Jerry Casagrande. Photo: Allison Aubrey/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64660\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Riley Casagrande churns butter with her dad Jerry Casagrande. Photo: Allison Aubrey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, I was skeptical that the churn, which basically looks like a gallon-sized glass jar with a crank on top, would hold the crowd's attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it turned out that we gathered around the churn as if it was a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as a few of the kids at the party started beating a toy drum to the rhythm of the churning, the whole scene felt part ceremony, part circus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sounds like fun,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.considerthefork.com/?p=3\">Bee Wilson\u003c/a>, British food writer and author of the food-gadget history book \u003cem>Consider the Fo\u003c/em>rk, said when I told her about the party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She had some smart ideas about why simple crafts like butter-churning have become trendy again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's kind of a response to the computer age,\" Wilson says. And it is part of a larger, do-it-yourself food movement that includes everything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/29/196334312/SAVING-THE-SEASON\">canning\u003c/a>, to making homemade bitters or DIY \u003ca href=\"http://www.jsonline.com/features/food/making-wholemilk-ricotta-cheese-easier-than-expected-b48mkjk-190885501.html\">ricotta\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're just spending so much of our lives living in a sort-of virtual capacity, staring at things, that's it very therapeutic to do things again,\" Wilson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And these hands-on projects can help us get our hands off our tiny, electronic devices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, foodies don't need to go so low-tech to get freshly churned butter. Specialty shops and home-delivery dairies offer lots of options.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, hey, you can also whip up some butter using a stand-mixer \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/24/how-to-make-butter\">recipe\u003c/a> in a jiffy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, after an evening of butter-churning, were there any converts among the group? Well, Riley Casagrande, Jerry's daughter, seemed to sum it up best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kinda fun, like, as something special,\" Riley said. \"But if you had to do it all the time, it wouldn't be very fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seems it was the novelty that made it entertaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64654/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning","authors":["byline_bayareabites_64654"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_11943","bayareabites_11942","bayareabites_987","bayareabites_1893","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64659","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_11324":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_11324","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"11324","score":null,"sort":[1268752652000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bar-and-restaurant-themantics","title":"Bar and Restaurant Themantics","publishDate":1268752652,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/andrew-rasta.jpg\" alt=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" title=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11341\">Restaurants and bars with themes have always rubbed me the wrong way. I think of the first and only time I walked into \u003ca href=\"http://www.smoothasbutter.com/\">Butter\u003c/a>. It must have been 2003. While I was as well-versed in irony as any literary theory buff with a fresh diploma, the brown-bagged forties, snack stand carved out of the side of a trailer, and steaming tater tots seemed a bit much. I'm not a stickler for good taste, but I was instantly annoyed by a bar dedicated to aping the coarsest trappings of poor white culture for the amusement of privileged San Franciscans carousing through SoMa. I've seen it before around these parts: even politically radical non-profit workers who would rather poke out an eye than offend a person of color think nothing of throwing \"white trash\"-themed birthday parties for themselves. Plus, tater tots are actually really good -- without irony, just ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've splashed around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants/TheTongaRoomHurricaneBar.htm\">Tonga Room\u003c/a>, stomped into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigfootlodge.com/\">Bigfoot Lounge\u003c/a>, and knocked back a whiskey at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a>, that classy throw-back to San Francisco's speakeasy-riddled past -- appealing themed joints, all of them. The other day, I was talking themed bars with some buddies, one of whom manages a newish decidedly un-themed establishment in Russian Hill, on Polk, just above the Tenderloin. The topic was Manhattan bars, where drink costs soar to airport prices -- $6 for a bottle of beer, $10 for a well drink. We joked that someone should start a really, really expensive bar in San Francisco called $$$. There would be a $50 cover charge, and no music, karaoke, free food, pool, or pub quiz to account for the steep entrance fee. The drinks would not be made with fancy infused \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2010/02/ilegal-infusions-the-word-gets-out.html\">potentially illegal spirits\u003c/a> or feature small artisanal producers. They would be perfectly plain and perhaps a little weak. Still, if you could afford to buy your way in, you could hang out with others who could as well, which might be reward enough. It'd be pure elitism, distilled -- as appropriate a theme as any.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried. There was so much I did not see, particularly in Tokyo, where I only spent a few jet-lagged days. My home-base for most of the visit was Kyoto, Japan's old Imperial capitol. Still, after a week of bouncing around that city's bars and informal late-night eateries, my head was throbbing -- and not from too much single malt. Along Kiyamachi St., very close to the Kamo River, tiny izakayas and watering holes burrow into unassuming commercial storefronts and stubby office buildings. You walk up a few flights of stairs -- as if going to see a disreputable dentist -- and knock on doors that open on to strange, insular, fastidiously detailed worlds. They reminded me of levels in \u003ca href=\"http://www.videogamesblogger.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/super-mario-bros-2-nes-potion.jpg\">Super Mario Brothers\u003c/a>: through one portal, a swanky, pocket-sized cool jazz club draped in blue curtains appeared, through another, fittingly, a red-and-white toadstool-themed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/24/morel-of-a-story/\">\"mushroom\" bar\u003c/a> no bigger than an apartment kitchen -- both in the same building, occupying suites on the same floor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I visited two establishments thoroughly preoccupied with Jamaica's most prominent (and cliched) cultural and artistic exports -- Bob Marley, an easy way with marijuana, Rastafarianism, ripe for the watering down, and the flag's black, yellow, and green color scheme. Despite being a huge reggae fan, in the United States, I wouldn't have had the slightest interest. Nonetheless, Rasta and Rub-A-Dub were a lot of fun. The first is a dark cave on the 4th or 5th floor of an office building. Muzak renditions of Rockers classics seep from hidden speakers. A weed leaf mosaic rises up out of the tiled floor. A shrine to Mr. Marley occupies the middle of the back wall, bathed in chartreuse light, overlooking the scene. When I was there, the crowd was typically diverse: bartenders with desperate attempts at dreadlocks, a few business guys enjoying an extended happy hour, a party of ladies on the heels of a shopping trip, and a couple hanging out along the side wall, with the lanky American gentleman trying not to look as absurd as the retina-burning blue \"island\" cocktails in his glass. Significantly older, Rub-A-Dub is located in a frond-filled basement. According to legend, the owner, a Japanese man, married a Jamaican woman, and opened the bar to continuously remind her of her homeland. In truth, theme aside, Rasta would be considered a pretty good restaurant in San Francisco, offering roast fish heads and Japanese riffs on jerked chicken and seafood. I didn't eat at Rub-A-Dub (too many fish heads at Rasta), but I did have a few drinks under bunches of bananas hanging from the ceiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I returned from Japan in April -- just ten days after I'd arrived -- but I started thinking about themes all over again last week, when I read an S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/hog_rocks_introduces_the_ham_b.php\">blog post\u003c/a> about Hogs & Rocks. Set to open in May or June, this joint endeavor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> chef Scott Youkilis and Eric Rubin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tresagaves.com/\">Tres Agaves\u003c/a> will serve 45 different kinds of ham, along with pickles, salads, and oysters (the rocks, of course). Unlike, say Rasta, Hogs & Rocks will do food and drink first, letting aesthetics follow suit. If the bar sprang up in Japan, the floor cushions would be swine-pink and sewn up to look like plump hind legs. There'd be small chairs shaped like oyster shells. Albums by Badfinger (lead singer, the late Peter Ham) would boom on the stereo. Images of piggy pop culture's most prominent representatives -- Wilbur, Porky, Pooh's \u003ca href=\"http://janezlifeandtimes.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/pooh_n_piglet_jig.jpg\">nervous little friend\u003c/a>, and a rogue's gallery of notorious male chauvinists -- would line the walls. The atmosphere would be unsubtly rendered, but genuine, irony-free -- seriously silly, with excellent food. That's one distinction I can draw between themed bars and restaurants here and there: seemingly goofy joints in Japan actually tend to have good food, whereas in the United States, even in San Francisco, corny trappings (from tiki bars to Chuck E. Cheese) all but guarantee an indifferent kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Kyoto, the most unassuming bar I visited was in many ways the most revealing. To launch a long night of drinking, my girlfriend and I wandered into Color, an elegant, stylish lounge decked out in handsome modern furniture and classy vintage appliances. This was a nice place to drink. It reminded us of countless bars we'd patronized in the States. We discerned no theme, which, obviously, didn't surprise us. We'd seen plenty of regular bars around. This one just felt cozier than most. Then, we grabbed a card on the way out and read the finer print. The bar did in fact have a theme. It identified as \"New York-style,\" which explained why it struck us as so familiar -- right down to the $10 cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1268760321,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":8,"wordCount":1200},"headData":{"title":"Bar and Restaurant Themantics | KQED","description":"My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bar and Restaurant Themantics","datePublished":"2010-03-16T15:17:32.000Z","dateModified":"2010-03-16T17:25:21.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"11324 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=11324","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/16/bar-and-restaurant-themantics/","disqusTitle":"Bar and Restaurant Themantics","path":"/bayareabites/11324/bar-and-restaurant-themantics","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/andrew-rasta.jpg\" alt=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" title=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11341\">Restaurants and bars with themes have always rubbed me the wrong way. I think of the first and only time I walked into \u003ca href=\"http://www.smoothasbutter.com/\">Butter\u003c/a>. It must have been 2003. While I was as well-versed in irony as any literary theory buff with a fresh diploma, the brown-bagged forties, snack stand carved out of the side of a trailer, and steaming tater tots seemed a bit much. I'm not a stickler for good taste, but I was instantly annoyed by a bar dedicated to aping the coarsest trappings of poor white culture for the amusement of privileged San Franciscans carousing through SoMa. I've seen it before around these parts: even politically radical non-profit workers who would rather poke out an eye than offend a person of color think nothing of throwing \"white trash\"-themed birthday parties for themselves. Plus, tater tots are actually really good -- without irony, just ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've splashed around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants/TheTongaRoomHurricaneBar.htm\">Tonga Room\u003c/a>, stomped into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigfootlodge.com/\">Bigfoot Lounge\u003c/a>, and knocked back a whiskey at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a>, that classy throw-back to San Francisco's speakeasy-riddled past -- appealing themed joints, all of them. The other day, I was talking themed bars with some buddies, one of whom manages a newish decidedly un-themed establishment in Russian Hill, on Polk, just above the Tenderloin. The topic was Manhattan bars, where drink costs soar to airport prices -- $6 for a bottle of beer, $10 for a well drink. We joked that someone should start a really, really expensive bar in San Francisco called $$$. There would be a $50 cover charge, and no music, karaoke, free food, pool, or pub quiz to account for the steep entrance fee. The drinks would not be made with fancy infused \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2010/02/ilegal-infusions-the-word-gets-out.html\">potentially illegal spirits\u003c/a> or feature small artisanal producers. They would be perfectly plain and perhaps a little weak. Still, if you could afford to buy your way in, you could hang out with others who could as well, which might be reward enough. It'd be pure elitism, distilled -- as appropriate a theme as any.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried. There was so much I did not see, particularly in Tokyo, where I only spent a few jet-lagged days. My home-base for most of the visit was Kyoto, Japan's old Imperial capitol. Still, after a week of bouncing around that city's bars and informal late-night eateries, my head was throbbing -- and not from too much single malt. Along Kiyamachi St., very close to the Kamo River, tiny izakayas and watering holes burrow into unassuming commercial storefronts and stubby office buildings. You walk up a few flights of stairs -- as if going to see a disreputable dentist -- and knock on doors that open on to strange, insular, fastidiously detailed worlds. They reminded me of levels in \u003ca href=\"http://www.videogamesblogger.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/super-mario-bros-2-nes-potion.jpg\">Super Mario Brothers\u003c/a>: through one portal, a swanky, pocket-sized cool jazz club draped in blue curtains appeared, through another, fittingly, a red-and-white toadstool-themed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/24/morel-of-a-story/\">\"mushroom\" bar\u003c/a> no bigger than an apartment kitchen -- both in the same building, occupying suites on the same floor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I visited two establishments thoroughly preoccupied with Jamaica's most prominent (and cliched) cultural and artistic exports -- Bob Marley, an easy way with marijuana, Rastafarianism, ripe for the watering down, and the flag's black, yellow, and green color scheme. Despite being a huge reggae fan, in the United States, I wouldn't have had the slightest interest. Nonetheless, Rasta and Rub-A-Dub were a lot of fun. The first is a dark cave on the 4th or 5th floor of an office building. Muzak renditions of Rockers classics seep from hidden speakers. A weed leaf mosaic rises up out of the tiled floor. A shrine to Mr. Marley occupies the middle of the back wall, bathed in chartreuse light, overlooking the scene. When I was there, the crowd was typically diverse: bartenders with desperate attempts at dreadlocks, a few business guys enjoying an extended happy hour, a party of ladies on the heels of a shopping trip, and a couple hanging out along the side wall, with the lanky American gentleman trying not to look as absurd as the retina-burning blue \"island\" cocktails in his glass. Significantly older, Rub-A-Dub is located in a frond-filled basement. According to legend, the owner, a Japanese man, married a Jamaican woman, and opened the bar to continuously remind her of her homeland. In truth, theme aside, Rasta would be considered a pretty good restaurant in San Francisco, offering roast fish heads and Japanese riffs on jerked chicken and seafood. I didn't eat at Rub-A-Dub (too many fish heads at Rasta), but I did have a few drinks under bunches of bananas hanging from the ceiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I returned from Japan in April -- just ten days after I'd arrived -- but I started thinking about themes all over again last week, when I read an S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/hog_rocks_introduces_the_ham_b.php\">blog post\u003c/a> about Hogs & Rocks. Set to open in May or June, this joint endeavor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> chef Scott Youkilis and Eric Rubin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tresagaves.com/\">Tres Agaves\u003c/a> will serve 45 different kinds of ham, along with pickles, salads, and oysters (the rocks, of course). Unlike, say Rasta, Hogs & Rocks will do food and drink first, letting aesthetics follow suit. If the bar sprang up in Japan, the floor cushions would be swine-pink and sewn up to look like plump hind legs. There'd be small chairs shaped like oyster shells. Albums by Badfinger (lead singer, the late Peter Ham) would boom on the stereo. Images of piggy pop culture's most prominent representatives -- Wilbur, Porky, Pooh's \u003ca href=\"http://janezlifeandtimes.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/pooh_n_piglet_jig.jpg\">nervous little friend\u003c/a>, and a rogue's gallery of notorious male chauvinists -- would line the walls. The atmosphere would be unsubtly rendered, but genuine, irony-free -- seriously silly, with excellent food. That's one distinction I can draw between themed bars and restaurants here and there: seemingly goofy joints in Japan actually tend to have good food, whereas in the United States, even in San Francisco, corny trappings (from tiki bars to Chuck E. Cheese) all but guarantee an indifferent kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Kyoto, the most unassuming bar I visited was in many ways the most revealing. To launch a long night of drinking, my girlfriend and I wandered into Color, an elegant, stylish lounge decked out in handsome modern furniture and classy vintage appliances. This was a nice place to drink. It reminded us of countless bars we'd patronized in the States. We discerned no theme, which, obviously, didn't surprise us. We'd seen plenty of regular bars around. This one just felt cozier than most. Then, we grabbed a card on the way out and read the finer print. The bar did in fact have a theme. It identified as \"New York-style,\" which explained why it struck us as so familiar -- right down to the $10 cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/11324/bar-and-restaurant-themantics","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_772","bayareabites_3590","bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_3588","bayareabites_3589","bayareabites_3591"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_6783":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_6783","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"6783","score":null,"sort":[1252957824000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"taking-time-in-the-kitchen-down-to-the-brown","title":"Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown","publishDate":1252957824,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"253\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyday cooking means taking lots of shortcuts. For the most flavor with the shortest amount of time in the kitchen, especially when you've splurged or gone out of your way to buy good ingredients, it's a delicate balance between paying attention to the details and just trying to get dinner on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all done it -- cooked tomatoes with their peels and seeds, served pureed soup unstrained, fried the potatoes just once, not twice. It's healthier, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a cook, I embrace shortcuts. But as a cooking teacher, I always try to explain to my classes why, over the centuries and millennia, certain techniques have developed. Sometimes it's cultural. Usually, though, there's a very real change in texture or flavor, nutrition or shelf-life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BROWNED BUTTER\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter3.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6789\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simmering whole butter until all its water bubbles off and its protein solids separate accomplishes several key improvements. It allows the butter to sit at (tropical) room temperature much longer without turning rancid. It significantly increases the butter's smoke point to allow high-heat cooking. And it transforms the milks sweet flavor, adding deep, nutty, caramel tones. Indians call it \u003cem>ghee\u003c/em>, while the French call it \u003cem>beurre noisette\u003c/em>, or hazelnut butter for its rich color and flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You need just five or ten minutes to make browned butter. Melt good-quality, unsalted butter in a small, heavy pan over medium heat. (A lighter colored pan will allow you to judge more easily the color of the butter as it cooks.) Continue cooking it through the foamy bubbling stage, while all the water evaporates off. Reduce the heat if you want to give yourself some extra buffer time, especially if this is your first time browning butter. As the bubbles subside, swirl the pan occasionally and keep an extra close eye on the butter. The protein solids will sink to the bottom. When they turn light brown, transfer the hot butter immediately to a heat-proof bowl. Be sure not to scorch the butter, as blackened protein will taste sharply acrid, not pleasantly nutty. It will darken a little more as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For frying or long storage, be sure to separate the milk solids: skim off any remaining foam and spoon or pour off the oil while still liquid, leaving behind the darkened protein at the bottom of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Browned butter can be used while still melted to saute or to garnish. It's excellent for vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, and green beans. If you're trying to use less butter, deepening its flavor will accentuate the effect from smaller amounts. For a super simple yet elegant entree, sear chicken breast, pork chops, or fish fillets in browned butter and then serve with fresh lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let browned butter solidify and substitute it in baked recipes for extra delicate cookies and cakes. (Remember that less water means less gluten development in flour, so be sure to allow for some trial and error as you figure out the fulcrum point between flavor and structure.) Use it in rice pilaf to serve with full-flavored stews and roasts. Or simply offer it at the table in your regular butter dish and spread it on crusty bread or flaky biscuits for a flavor epiphany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SALTING EGGPLANT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_eggplant.jpg\" alt=\"brown eggplant\" title=\"brown eggplant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With ever smaller, younger and fresher vegetables making their way to our markets in the past decades, old rules have lost much of their imperative. Peeling, trimming, salting -- these were techniques required when vegetables were allowed to mature completely on the plant, transported long distances without the benefit of refrigeration, and served within days not weeks of harvest. Tender carrots no longer require peeling. Young celery stalks can be cooked with leaves. And most eggplants now, especially the narrow Asian varieties, are fine going straight from the cutting board the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, though, salting eggplant is critical and will remind you just why this vegetable has been embraced in classic dishes around the world. It's a hassle, but the extra step draws out bitter juices in older vegetables, whether those missed in the back corner of your garden or forgotten in the bottom of your refrigerator. More importantly, salting alters the cell structure of the vegetable's flesh, creating that famous silken texture while preventing excess absorption of oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To salt eggplant, halve, dice or slice it as needed. Sprinkle generous with kosher salt and set aside in a bowl or colander. To encourage the purging of juices, weight the eggplant. (The most effective way is to fill a zip bag with water and plop it on top of the pieces. The age-old method is a flat plate topped with a rock.) Leave the eggplant for 30 to 60 minutes. When you return and peek into the bowl, you'll see a surprising amount of dark brown liquid at the bottom. Rinse the eggplant quickly in cool water, drain well and then dry it by wringing in a clean cloth or patting with paper towels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salting eggplant will noticeably improve recipes that call for stuffing eggplant halves or rolling thin slices around a filling. It's also a good technique for dishes where keeping its shape is important, such as stews, curries, ratatouille, or parmigiana. If you're deep-frying eggplant, salting is essential for preventing greasiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what if you're making baba ganoush or using tiny, little adolescent eggplants? Nope, no one will care or notice if you skip the salting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking is an investment of time and money, energy and love. Like all decisions, judging the costs requires knowing the benefits. And then choosing wisely. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1252957824,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":981},"headData":{"title":"Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown | KQED","description":"Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown","datePublished":"2009-09-14T19:50:24.000Z","dateModified":"2009-09-14T19:50:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"6783 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=6783","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/14/taking-time-in-the-kitchen-down-to-the-brown/","disqusTitle":"Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown","path":"/bayareabites/6783/taking-time-in-the-kitchen-down-to-the-brown","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"253\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyday cooking means taking lots of shortcuts. For the most flavor with the shortest amount of time in the kitchen, especially when you've splurged or gone out of your way to buy good ingredients, it's a delicate balance between paying attention to the details and just trying to get dinner on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all done it -- cooked tomatoes with their peels and seeds, served pureed soup unstrained, fried the potatoes just once, not twice. It's healthier, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a cook, I embrace shortcuts. But as a cooking teacher, I always try to explain to my classes why, over the centuries and millennia, certain techniques have developed. Sometimes it's cultural. Usually, though, there's a very real change in texture or flavor, nutrition or shelf-life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BROWNED BUTTER\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter3.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6789\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simmering whole butter until all its water bubbles off and its protein solids separate accomplishes several key improvements. It allows the butter to sit at (tropical) room temperature much longer without turning rancid. It significantly increases the butter's smoke point to allow high-heat cooking. And it transforms the milks sweet flavor, adding deep, nutty, caramel tones. Indians call it \u003cem>ghee\u003c/em>, while the French call it \u003cem>beurre noisette\u003c/em>, or hazelnut butter for its rich color and flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You need just five or ten minutes to make browned butter. Melt good-quality, unsalted butter in a small, heavy pan over medium heat. (A lighter colored pan will allow you to judge more easily the color of the butter as it cooks.) Continue cooking it through the foamy bubbling stage, while all the water evaporates off. Reduce the heat if you want to give yourself some extra buffer time, especially if this is your first time browning butter. As the bubbles subside, swirl the pan occasionally and keep an extra close eye on the butter. The protein solids will sink to the bottom. When they turn light brown, transfer the hot butter immediately to a heat-proof bowl. Be sure not to scorch the butter, as blackened protein will taste sharply acrid, not pleasantly nutty. It will darken a little more as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For frying or long storage, be sure to separate the milk solids: skim off any remaining foam and spoon or pour off the oil while still liquid, leaving behind the darkened protein at the bottom of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Browned butter can be used while still melted to saute or to garnish. It's excellent for vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, and green beans. If you're trying to use less butter, deepening its flavor will accentuate the effect from smaller amounts. For a super simple yet elegant entree, sear chicken breast, pork chops, or fish fillets in browned butter and then serve with fresh lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let browned butter solidify and substitute it in baked recipes for extra delicate cookies and cakes. (Remember that less water means less gluten development in flour, so be sure to allow for some trial and error as you figure out the fulcrum point between flavor and structure.) Use it in rice pilaf to serve with full-flavored stews and roasts. Or simply offer it at the table in your regular butter dish and spread it on crusty bread or flaky biscuits for a flavor epiphany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SALTING EGGPLANT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_eggplant.jpg\" alt=\"brown eggplant\" title=\"brown eggplant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With ever smaller, younger and fresher vegetables making their way to our markets in the past decades, old rules have lost much of their imperative. Peeling, trimming, salting -- these were techniques required when vegetables were allowed to mature completely on the plant, transported long distances without the benefit of refrigeration, and served within days not weeks of harvest. Tender carrots no longer require peeling. Young celery stalks can be cooked with leaves. And most eggplants now, especially the narrow Asian varieties, are fine going straight from the cutting board the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, though, salting eggplant is critical and will remind you just why this vegetable has been embraced in classic dishes around the world. It's a hassle, but the extra step draws out bitter juices in older vegetables, whether those missed in the back corner of your garden or forgotten in the bottom of your refrigerator. More importantly, salting alters the cell structure of the vegetable's flesh, creating that famous silken texture while preventing excess absorption of oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To salt eggplant, halve, dice or slice it as needed. Sprinkle generous with kosher salt and set aside in a bowl or colander. To encourage the purging of juices, weight the eggplant. (The most effective way is to fill a zip bag with water and plop it on top of the pieces. The age-old method is a flat plate topped with a rock.) Leave the eggplant for 30 to 60 minutes. When you return and peek into the bowl, you'll see a surprising amount of dark brown liquid at the bottom. Rinse the eggplant quickly in cool water, drain well and then dry it by wringing in a clean cloth or patting with paper towels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salting eggplant will noticeably improve recipes that call for stuffing eggplant halves or rolling thin slices around a filling. It's also a good technique for dishes where keeping its shape is important, such as stews, curries, ratatouille, or parmigiana. If you're deep-frying eggplant, salting is essential for preventing greasiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what if you're making baba ganoush or using tiny, little adolescent eggplants? Nope, no one will care or notice if you skip the salting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking is an investment of time and money, energy and love. Like all decisions, judging the costs requires knowing the benefits. And then choosing wisely. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/6783/taking-time-in-the-kitchen-down-to-the-brown","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_569","bayareabites_2292","bayareabites_2694","bayareabites_199"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1334":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1334","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1334","score":null,"sort":[1218222042000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-to-make-butter","title":"How To Make Butter","publishDate":1218222042,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-trio.jpg\" alt=\"butter trio\" align=\"left\">A couple of summers ago, I called to check in on a friend of mine in New Jersey, who was taking a more-or-less enforced summer off of work. He'd spent his time traveling to Greece with his family, organizing his life, playing with his kids, but the novelty of so much free time was wearing thin. His boredom was as clear as he sighed over the phone when I asked him what he'd been up to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh...nothing. Just making butter today...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making butter? I pictured him sitting on an Amish stool churning away in the shade of his porch. And since I've always thought of butter-making as the sole province of women, I pictured him in a dairy maid's bonnet that matched both his eyes and his rugby shirt. I was a bit jealous of both his crushing amount of free time and the fact that he had thought of making butter before I did. I asked him where he picked up the churn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't have a churn, Michael. I'm doing it in my Kitchen Aid.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There went my fantasy. Use of a stand mixer was cheating in my book. Especially on the East Coast, where my urban, California sensibilities allowed me to imagine butter churns by the truckload were to be had yard-saling on any given weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fantasy deflated, I cast the thought of butter-making out of my head. Until last week, when I picked up my dog-eared copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0802136516/kqedorg-20\">Much Depends on Dinner\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.margaretvisser.com/\">Margaret Visser\u003c/a>. Her chapter “Butter– and Something ‘Just as Good’” made me think entirely too much about the stuff. I wanted to know how to make it on my own, so I did a little research. And I do mean little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s alarmingly easy to do, as you’ll soon see. For an excellent and very informative post on butter and butter-making, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article/113/Making-Butter\">Cooking for Engineers\u003c/a> -- a site filled with all the cooking Geekdom to which I aspire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>1 cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy whipping cream (at a temperature between 60 and 68°F)\u003cbr>\nA pinch of salt (optional)\u003cbr>\nFinely diced herbs (also optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place cream in the clean, cool bowl of your stand mixer, assuming you have one. Mix on medium speed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-whiskcream.jpg\" alt=\"whisk cream\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Basically, you begin by making whipped cream. Once the cream has reached stiff-peak stage, slow the mixing down a little. The cream will now start to clump in the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-overwhip.jpg\" alt=\"butter happens when you keep whipping after the cream turns into whipped cream\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. What you have in the bowl will quickly turn from creamy white to, not surprisingly given the subject matter of this post, buttery yellow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-turns.jpg\" alt=\"butter turns\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. After a short while, the buttermilk will begin to separate from the butter solids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-leaky.jpg\" alt=\"buttermilk separates from butter solids\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour off the buttermilk. You may save it as the appropriate beverage for a late night, heart-to-heart conversation about women with your teen-aged son around your antique farm house table, cook with it, or throw it away. The choice is yours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. At this point, it’s a good idea to rinse the remaining buttermilk from the solid bits, since the buttermilk will cause your butter to turn rancid much sooner than one would like. Pour cold water over the butter, then squeeze and knead. Repeat until water runs clear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-press.jpg\" alt=\" squeeze and knead butter\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Congratulations, you now have your butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-done.jpg\" alt=\"butter done\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. You may now add a little salt, if that is your preference. Or fold in some fresh herbs. Whatever the hell you want, really-- it’s your butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-chives.jpg\" alt=\"butter with chives\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes approximately one cup of useable butter excellent for lashing on one’s toast or experimenting à la \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Schneider_(actress)\">Maria Schneider\u003c/a>. Have a jolly time with it.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Making butter? I pictured him sitting on an Amish stool churning away in the shade of his porch. And since I've always thought of butter-making as the sole province of women, I pictured him in a dairy maid's bonnet that matched both his eyes and his rugby shirt. I was a bit jealous of both his crushing amount of free time and the fact that he had thought of making butter before I did. I asked him where he picked up the churn.\r\n\"I don't have a churn, Michael. I'm doing it in my Kitchen Aid.\"\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373058212,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":631},"headData":{"title":"How To Make Butter | KQED","description":"Making butter? I pictured him sitting on an Amish stool churning away in the shade of his porch. And since I've always thought of butter-making as the sole province of women, I pictured him in a dairy maid's bonnet that matched both his eyes and his rugby shirt. I was a bit jealous of both his crushing amount of free time and the fact that he had thought of making butter before I did. I asked him where he picked up the churn.\r\n"I don't have a churn, Michael. I'm doing it in my Kitchen Aid."\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How To Make Butter","datePublished":"2008-08-08T19:00:42.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-05T21:03:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"1334 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/08/how-to-make-butter/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/08/how-to-make-butter/","disqusTitle":"How To Make Butter","path":"/bayareabites/1334/how-to-make-butter","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-trio.jpg\" alt=\"butter trio\" align=\"left\">A couple of summers ago, I called to check in on a friend of mine in New Jersey, who was taking a more-or-less enforced summer off of work. He'd spent his time traveling to Greece with his family, organizing his life, playing with his kids, but the novelty of so much free time was wearing thin. His boredom was as clear as he sighed over the phone when I asked him what he'd been up to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh...nothing. Just making butter today...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making butter? I pictured him sitting on an Amish stool churning away in the shade of his porch. And since I've always thought of butter-making as the sole province of women, I pictured him in a dairy maid's bonnet that matched both his eyes and his rugby shirt. I was a bit jealous of both his crushing amount of free time and the fact that he had thought of making butter before I did. I asked him where he picked up the churn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't have a churn, Michael. I'm doing it in my Kitchen Aid.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There went my fantasy. Use of a stand mixer was cheating in my book. Especially on the East Coast, where my urban, California sensibilities allowed me to imagine butter churns by the truckload were to be had yard-saling on any given weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fantasy deflated, I cast the thought of butter-making out of my head. Until last week, when I picked up my dog-eared copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0802136516/kqedorg-20\">Much Depends on Dinner\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.margaretvisser.com/\">Margaret Visser\u003c/a>. Her chapter “Butter– and Something ‘Just as Good’” made me think entirely too much about the stuff. I wanted to know how to make it on my own, so I did a little research. And I do mean little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s alarmingly easy to do, as you’ll soon see. For an excellent and very informative post on butter and butter-making, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article/113/Making-Butter\">Cooking for Engineers\u003c/a> -- a site filled with all the cooking Geekdom to which I aspire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>1 cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy whipping cream (at a temperature between 60 and 68°F)\u003cbr>\nA pinch of salt (optional)\u003cbr>\nFinely diced herbs (also optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place cream in the clean, cool bowl of your stand mixer, assuming you have one. Mix on medium speed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-whiskcream.jpg\" alt=\"whisk cream\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Basically, you begin by making whipped cream. Once the cream has reached stiff-peak stage, slow the mixing down a little. The cream will now start to clump in the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-overwhip.jpg\" alt=\"butter happens when you keep whipping after the cream turns into whipped cream\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. What you have in the bowl will quickly turn from creamy white to, not surprisingly given the subject matter of this post, buttery yellow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-turns.jpg\" alt=\"butter turns\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. After a short while, the buttermilk will begin to separate from the butter solids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-leaky.jpg\" alt=\"buttermilk separates from butter solids\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour off the buttermilk. You may save it as the appropriate beverage for a late night, heart-to-heart conversation about women with your teen-aged son around your antique farm house table, cook with it, or throw it away. The choice is yours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. At this point, it’s a good idea to rinse the remaining buttermilk from the solid bits, since the buttermilk will cause your butter to turn rancid much sooner than one would like. Pour cold water over the butter, then squeeze and knead. Repeat until water runs clear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-press.jpg\" alt=\" squeeze and knead butter\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Congratulations, you now have your butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-done.jpg\" alt=\"butter done\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. You may now add a little salt, if that is your preference. Or fold in some fresh herbs. Whatever the hell you want, really-- it’s your butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/butter-chives.jpg\" alt=\"butter with chives\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes approximately one cup of useable butter excellent for lashing on one’s toast or experimenting à la \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Schneider_(actress)\">Maria Schneider\u003c/a>. Have a jolly time with it.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1334/how-to-make-butter","authors":["5017"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1288","bayareabites_11943","bayareabites_11942","bayareabites_987"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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