The Art Of Drinking Absinthe, The Liquor Of Aesthetes
Absinthe Jellies: I Got Them from Tom
Elixirs Made To Fight Malaria Still Shine On The Modern Bar
Interview with Absinthe Chef Adam Keough: spicy rabbit meatballs, food secrets and culinary mentors
The Worm Turns: Absinthe Verte
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At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a brouilleur, a device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down.","publishDate":1439319863,"status":"inherit","parent":99283,"modified":1439328169,"caption":"\u003cem>Le louche \u003c/em> refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a \u003cem>brouilleur, a\u003c/em> device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down.","credit":"Courtesy of Scott MacDonald","description":"\u003cem>Le louche \u003c/em>refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. 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The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine.","publishDate":1356027581,"status":"inherit","parent":53147,"modified":1356027581,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":"Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. 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Lucianovic is a writer, editor, and lapsed cheesemonger in the San Francisco Bay Area. A culinary school grad with an English lit degree, she has written for CNN.com, MSNBC.com, Popular Science, The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Boston Globe. Additionally, she has been writing for KQED's Bay Area Bites since its inception and is the website editor for KQED's Emmy-award winning show \"Check, Please! Bay Area.\"\r\n\r\nStephanie was an original recapper at Television Without Pity and worked on a line of cookbooks for William-Sonoma as well as in the back kitchen of a Jacques Pépin cooking show. 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Her writing has been featured in SF Weekly, Tasting Table, the San Francisco Chronicle and elsewhere. She has shuttled \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2009/03/26/eater_map_mr_bourdains_san_francisco_whereabouts.php\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> around town and mastered the art of properly loading a catering van in a flash. Mary has eaten the world’s hottest burger and loves to cook and eat. Follow her at \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mladdfood\">@mladdfood\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"mladdfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Mary Ladd | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/maryladd"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_99283":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_99283","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"99283","score":null,"sort":[1439328832000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-art-of-drinking-absinthe-the-liquor-of-aesthetes","title":"The Art Of Drinking Absinthe, The Liquor Of Aesthetes","publishDate":1439328832,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99285\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/tsb_8883_custom-7ef6949b3fd6f534467d95ef0e0397e3a248c1f4-e1439328220130.jpg\" alt=\"A sugar cube is cradled by a slotted spoon balanced on top of a glass of absinthe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1325\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sugar cube is cradled by a slotted spoon balanced on top of a glass of absinthe. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's something romantic about absinthe — that naturally green liquor derived from wormwood and herbs like anise or fennel. Vincent Van Gogh and Oscar Wilde drank it. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Pablo Picasso filled the glasses of cafe patrons with absinthe in their paintings. Absinthe was a drink of aesthetes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet it was not art, but necessity that first helped popularize absinthe: It was included in the rations of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/12/17/167488498/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">French soldiers\u003c/a> who marched off to colonize Algeria in the 1840s. As Betina Wittels and Robert Hermesch write in \u003cem>Absinthe: Sip of Seduction,\u003c/em> French army doctors issued absinthe to soldiers \"for the prevention of fevers and treatment of dysentery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99284\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1246px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99284\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628.jpg\" alt=\"Le louche refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a brouilleur, a device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down.\" width=\"1246\" height=\"868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628.jpg 1246w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-400x279.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-800x557.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-1180x822.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-960x669.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1246px) 100vw, 1246px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a \u003cem>brouilleur, a\u003c/em> device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Scott MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Soon, the soldiers were drinking the beverage for nonmedicinal purposes, too. Wittels and Hermesch write that it became a fashionable beverage in Algerian cafes and nightclubs, and when soldiers returned to France, they weren't ready to give the drink up. At the time, the French wine industry was collapsing owing to a vine-killing aphid called phylloxera that left wine in short supply. Absinthe was in the right place at the right time. But rather than simply substituting one alcohol for another, the French developed a ritual for drinking absinthe that gave rise to some of the greatest liquor paraphernalia — known as absinthiana — around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99293\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99293\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of slotted absinthe spoons from the late 19th century. They were mostly used in bars and absinthe houses in Europe.\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of slotted absinthe spoons from the late 19th century. They were mostly used in bars and absinthe houses in Europe. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, absinthe is mixed with cold water. Not only does this dilute a liquor that is often bottled at about 70 percent ABV, it also produces a cloudy effect called \u003cem>le louche \u003c/em>(which can be roughly translated to \"the clouding\"). \u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> is a spectacle for the eyes, as the absinthe transforms from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. It is a bit of magic in a glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99294\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99294\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-drip-fountain.jpg\" alt=\"This drip fountain, on display at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, is a replica of the one found at the Old Absinthe House in New Orleans. Drip fountains were an economical way to cool down water before adding it to absinthe, while also prolonging the spectacle of le louche.\" width=\"300\" height=\"449\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This drip fountain, on display at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, is a replica of the one found at the Old Absinthe House in New Orleans. Drip fountains were an economical way to cool down water before adding it to absinthe, while also prolonging the spectacle of le louche. \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> is also an example of a scientifically interesting phenomenon known as the \"\u003ca href=\"http://iopscience.iop.org/1742-6596/352/1/012047\">ouzo effect\u003c/a>.\" Basically, when the water hits the absinthe, it releases the essential oils from the alcohol into the water, creating a spontaneous emulsion. So the drink becomes cloudy, and the effect sticks around a surprisingly long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cold water, it seems, was considered essential to palatability: In \u003cem>Five O'Clock Absinthe,\u003c/em> the late-19th century poet Raoul Ponchon wrote that, if you have warm absinthe, \u003cem>boire du pissat d'âne ou du bouillon pointu --\u003c/em> which \u003ca href=\"http://www.museeabsinthe.com/Ponchon-French-English.pdf\">translates\u003c/a>, more or less, to \"you might as well drink donkey's urine or 'enema broth' \" instead. So cold water it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The absinthe is sweetened with a cube of sugar, placed on a slotted spoon balanced on top of the glass. Water is dripped over the sugar, so that it dissolves slowly into the refreshment below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why create a special spoon for this purpose? Forks could also work, but in the 1800s, sugar didn't come in cubes but in lumpy rocks, which would have been difficult to balance on tines. So the French created special spoons that could cradle the sugar while allowing the sweetened water to drip down into the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99288\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/tsb_8866_enl-1bf31e4513ba7299ecac076cdb7deb1cfa0b6011-e1439328232702.jpg\" alt=\"Bottles of absinthe line the bar at a display dedicated to the drink at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1284\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bottles of absinthe line the bar at a display dedicated to the drink at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans. \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Drip fountains were created for two reasons. First, they allowed people to economically cool the water used to dilute the strong liquor. A small amount of ice — which was still an expensive luxury in the mid-1800s — could be used to chill a large quantity of water. Second, the fountains allowed patrons to draw out the ritual of \u003cem>le louche\u003c/em>. Sure, you could simply pour the water in all at once and be done with it. But where is the magic in that? No, drinking absinthe was meant to be an indulgence for the senses — no wonder artists flocked to the beverage. Absinthiana collector Scott MacDonald, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.absintheantiques.net/Absinthe_Antiques/Home.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Absinthe Antiques\u003c/a>, refers to the process as \"Western civilization's tea ceremony.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lots of people were drinking absinthe in the latter half of the 19th century, but the way they drank it — and the utensils they used — quickly became a marker of social class. While cafes might carry slotted spoons with a simple design, some wealthy families would order a full set of specially engraved spoons from the silversmith. Like most of us, these wealthy absinthe drinkers weren't immune to trends: MacDonald says that in the 1880s, spoons made out of a new material called aluminum were actually more costly than those made from pure silver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French brought their love of absinthe with them to New Orleans, which explains why the city's \u003ca href=\"http://sofabinstitute.org/southern-food-and-beverage\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Southern Food and Beverage Museum\u003c/a> has a large exhibit devoted to the drink. Museum President Liz Williams says that only the upper classes could afford a bottle of absinthe on their own — but that didn't make absinthe any less of the people's drink. Instead of happy hour, the time between 5-7 every evening was known as \"the green hour\" in France. People gathered in cafes, visiting and unwinding over glasses of absinthe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And MacDonald explains that despite absinthe's reputation as an artist's beverage, it was the common person's beverage first. \"Artists enjoyed it because it brought people together,\" explains MacDonald. \"They enjoyed the culture of it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Absinthe was a favorite of artists like Picasso and Van Gogh. Perhaps that explains why a complex ritual rose around drinking it, spawning some of the most beautiful alcohol paraphernalia around.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552420060,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":1047},"headData":{"title":"The Art Of Drinking Absinthe, The Liquor Of Aesthetes | KQED","description":"Absinthe was a favorite of artists like Picasso and Van Gogh. Perhaps that explains why a complex ritual rose around drinking it, spawning some of the most beautiful alcohol paraphernalia around.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Art Of Drinking Absinthe, The Liquor Of Aesthetes","datePublished":"2015-08-11T21:33:52.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-12T19:47:40.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"99283 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=99283","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/11/the-art-of-drinking-absinthe-the-liquor-of-aesthetes/","disqusTitle":"The Art Of Drinking Absinthe, The Liquor Of Aesthetes","nprByline":"Tove Danovich, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"430376985","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=430376985&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/08/10/430376985/the-art-of-drinking-absinthe-the-liquor-of-aesthetes?ft=nprml&f=430376985","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 10 Aug 2015 17:02:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 10 Aug 2015 13:24:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 10 Aug 2015 17:02:13 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/99283/the-art-of-drinking-absinthe-the-liquor-of-aesthetes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99285\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/tsb_8883_custom-7ef6949b3fd6f534467d95ef0e0397e3a248c1f4-e1439328220130.jpg\" alt=\"A sugar cube is cradled by a slotted spoon balanced on top of a glass of absinthe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1325\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sugar cube is cradled by a slotted spoon balanced on top of a glass of absinthe. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's something romantic about absinthe — that naturally green liquor derived from wormwood and herbs like anise or fennel. Vincent Van Gogh and Oscar Wilde drank it. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Pablo Picasso filled the glasses of cafe patrons with absinthe in their paintings. Absinthe was a drink of aesthetes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet it was not art, but necessity that first helped popularize absinthe: It was included in the rations of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/12/17/167488498/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">French soldiers\u003c/a> who marched off to colonize Algeria in the 1840s. As Betina Wittels and Robert Hermesch write in \u003cem>Absinthe: Sip of Seduction,\u003c/em> French army doctors issued absinthe to soldiers \"for the prevention of fevers and treatment of dysentery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99284\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1246px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99284\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628.jpg\" alt=\"Le louche refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a brouilleur, a device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down.\" width=\"1246\" height=\"868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628.jpg 1246w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-400x279.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-800x557.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-1180x822.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/11_custom-b7cefcaaa0baa77b964e672b429879e4ef36b628-960x669.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1246px) 100vw, 1246px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> refers to the transformation that happens when water is added to absinthe, turning the liquor from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. At left, a classic pour. At right, an absinthe glass fitted with a \u003cem>brouilleur, a\u003c/em> device that holds the ice and lets water slowly drip down. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Scott MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Soon, the soldiers were drinking the beverage for nonmedicinal purposes, too. Wittels and Hermesch write that it became a fashionable beverage in Algerian cafes and nightclubs, and when soldiers returned to France, they weren't ready to give the drink up. At the time, the French wine industry was collapsing owing to a vine-killing aphid called phylloxera that left wine in short supply. Absinthe was in the right place at the right time. But rather than simply substituting one alcohol for another, the French developed a ritual for drinking absinthe that gave rise to some of the greatest liquor paraphernalia — known as absinthiana — around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99293\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99293\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of slotted absinthe spoons from the late 19th century. They were mostly used in bars and absinthe houses in Europe.\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-spoons-400x267.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of slotted absinthe spoons from the late 19th century. They were mostly used in bars and absinthe houses in Europe. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, absinthe is mixed with cold water. Not only does this dilute a liquor that is often bottled at about 70 percent ABV, it also produces a cloudy effect called \u003cem>le louche \u003c/em>(which can be roughly translated to \"the clouding\"). \u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> is a spectacle for the eyes, as the absinthe transforms from a deep green to a milky, iridescent shade. It is a bit of magic in a glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99294\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99294\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/absinthe-drip-fountain.jpg\" alt=\"This drip fountain, on display at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, is a replica of the one found at the Old Absinthe House in New Orleans. Drip fountains were an economical way to cool down water before adding it to absinthe, while also prolonging the spectacle of le louche.\" width=\"300\" height=\"449\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This drip fountain, on display at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, is a replica of the one found at the Old Absinthe House in New Orleans. Drip fountains were an economical way to cool down water before adding it to absinthe, while also prolonging the spectacle of le louche. \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Le louche\u003c/em> is also an example of a scientifically interesting phenomenon known as the \"\u003ca href=\"http://iopscience.iop.org/1742-6596/352/1/012047\">ouzo effect\u003c/a>.\" Basically, when the water hits the absinthe, it releases the essential oils from the alcohol into the water, creating a spontaneous emulsion. So the drink becomes cloudy, and the effect sticks around a surprisingly long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cold water, it seems, was considered essential to palatability: In \u003cem>Five O'Clock Absinthe,\u003c/em> the late-19th century poet Raoul Ponchon wrote that, if you have warm absinthe, \u003cem>boire du pissat d'âne ou du bouillon pointu --\u003c/em> which \u003ca href=\"http://www.museeabsinthe.com/Ponchon-French-English.pdf\">translates\u003c/a>, more or less, to \"you might as well drink donkey's urine or 'enema broth' \" instead. So cold water it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The absinthe is sweetened with a cube of sugar, placed on a slotted spoon balanced on top of the glass. Water is dripped over the sugar, so that it dissolves slowly into the refreshment below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why create a special spoon for this purpose? Forks could also work, but in the 1800s, sugar didn't come in cubes but in lumpy rocks, which would have been difficult to balance on tines. So the French created special spoons that could cradle the sugar while allowing the sweetened water to drip down into the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-99288\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/tsb_8866_enl-1bf31e4513ba7299ecac076cdb7deb1cfa0b6011-e1439328232702.jpg\" alt=\"Bottles of absinthe line the bar at a display dedicated to the drink at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1284\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bottles of absinthe line the bar at a display dedicated to the drink at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans. \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Southern Food and Beverage Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Drip fountains were created for two reasons. First, they allowed people to economically cool the water used to dilute the strong liquor. A small amount of ice — which was still an expensive luxury in the mid-1800s — could be used to chill a large quantity of water. Second, the fountains allowed patrons to draw out the ritual of \u003cem>le louche\u003c/em>. Sure, you could simply pour the water in all at once and be done with it. But where is the magic in that? No, drinking absinthe was meant to be an indulgence for the senses — no wonder artists flocked to the beverage. Absinthiana collector Scott MacDonald, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.absintheantiques.net/Absinthe_Antiques/Home.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Absinthe Antiques\u003c/a>, refers to the process as \"Western civilization's tea ceremony.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lots of people were drinking absinthe in the latter half of the 19th century, but the way they drank it — and the utensils they used — quickly became a marker of social class. While cafes might carry slotted spoons with a simple design, some wealthy families would order a full set of specially engraved spoons from the silversmith. Like most of us, these wealthy absinthe drinkers weren't immune to trends: MacDonald says that in the 1880s, spoons made out of a new material called aluminum were actually more costly than those made from pure silver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French brought their love of absinthe with them to New Orleans, which explains why the city's \u003ca href=\"http://sofabinstitute.org/southern-food-and-beverage\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Southern Food and Beverage Museum\u003c/a> has a large exhibit devoted to the drink. Museum President Liz Williams says that only the upper classes could afford a bottle of absinthe on their own — but that didn't make absinthe any less of the people's drink. Instead of happy hour, the time between 5-7 every evening was known as \"the green hour\" in France. People gathered in cafes, visiting and unwinding over glasses of absinthe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And MacDonald explains that despite absinthe's reputation as an artist's beverage, it was the common person's beverage first. \"Artists enjoyed it because it brought people together,\" explains MacDonald. \"They enjoyed the culture of it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/99283/the-art-of-drinking-absinthe-the-liquor-of-aesthetes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_99283"],"categories":["bayareabites_1244"],"tags":["bayareabites_103","bayareabites_89","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_99284","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_53418":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_53418","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"53418","score":null,"sort":[1356464455000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"absinthe-jellies-i-got-them-from-tom","title":"Absinthe Jellies: I Got Them from Tom","publishDate":1356464455,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Jellies.png\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-53422\" title=\"Absinthe Jellies\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Jellies-300x300.png\" alt=\"Absinthe Jellies\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>I entered this joyous season with a couple of heart-chilling stories I wanted to share with the world and some fun recipes to match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, the point driven home to me for the Holidays was that my capacity for coming up with interesting ideas is not always paired with the culinary talent for bringing them to fruition: the pot pie recipe I threw myself into wound up being thrown in the garbage, the Salted Carmelite nun candies I wanted to give out for Christmas looked warped and depressed in their nasty looking habits. I dare not go on. I will say that even my ability to fix myself a bowl of cereal with confidence was suspect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was enough to drive a person to drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, I recalled the eternal wisdom of the great Maria von Trapp who once said to her flock, \"Wenn der Herr eine Tür schließt, irgendwo Er öffnet ein Fenster,\" which roughly translates (and I do mean roughly) to \"When the Lord closes the door on your edible nun idea, somewhere he opens a window.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As luck would have it, that window happened to shine a divine light upon my liquor shelf. Even more fortunate was the fact that I happened to be browsing the internet reading up on Tom Lehrer, the great mid-20th Century composer of such songs as \"Poisoning Pigeons in The Park\" and \"The Masochism Tango.\" It was if by some unseen force that I was willed to read the Wikipedia passage that mentioned Professor Lehrer's (spurious) claim to have invented the Jell-O shot as a way to circumvent alcohol restrictions while working at Los Alamos Labs in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, just like that, faith in my cooking abilities was restored like a Christmas miracle. Or maybe it was just the booze talking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever the case, it is thanks to Maria von Trapp, God, Tom Lehrer, and that bottle of absinthe collecting dust on my liquor shelf that I am able to bring you a recipe that is sure to please (and thoroughly sozzle) your loved ones, just in time for the Holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Absinthe Jellies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These jellies are not for children, which is a good thing because in all likelihood, they would not like them. They are what they are, which is incredibly alcoholic. 110 proof. Please serve, suck, and chew them responsibly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes enough to summon a legion of green fairies for you and all of your adult loved ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3 cups of water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 (1/4 ounce) packets of unflavored gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 cups of absinthe\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 drops of green food coloring (this is not entirely necessary, but it does make them more appealing)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plenty more granulated sugar for coating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Pour the water into a medium saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface. Leave unmolested for about five minutes, until the gelatin softens. Add one cup of sugar and whisk to combine.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Over low heat, stir the mixture with a rubber spatula, scraping down the sides of the pan as necessary until the sugar and gelatin are fully dissolved. It will take about 8 minutes to attain this state. Whatever you do, DO NOT BOIL. DO NOT EVEN SIMMER or the gelatin will not set properly and you will have wasted a lot of very expensive liquor, which is a crime in every state except Nevada.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Remove your pan of gelatin from the heat, add the absinthe and food coloring, then stir until all is well combined. If there is extra absinthe left in your absinthe bottle, wait until you have finished preparing this recipe until you drink it. Otherwise, I cannot claim responsibility for what happens.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Place an 8x8\" Pyrex baking dish onto a small baking sheet or tray that will fit such a thing, then pour your gelatin into the Pyrex dish. Place in your refrigerator to allow the near-liquid goo to cool and firm-- at least 2 hours or, better yet, over night. There is no need to cover your gelatin unless you also have left items such as creamed herring or durian fruit uncovered in the same refrigerator.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To release your gelatin from its Pyrex confines, dip the container into hot water and (starting from the number one) count to the number seven. After you have wiped the bottom and sides of the Pyrex, place a small cutting board over the top of the container and quickly flip it upside down. The gelatin should now be released on its own recognizance. If it does not, repeat the t water trick and try again. Return the now-freed gelatin (still on the cutting board) to the refrigerator for a few minutes to the top and sides to re-firm themselves if necessary. Remove them only when you are ready to cut and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Butt-Plug.png\">\u003cimg class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-53421\" title=\"Absinthe Butt Plug\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Butt-Plug-300x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Slice the gelatin into any size you wish. If you have made the error of pouring some of the gelatin into an ice cream soda glass, thinking that it might make for an amusing Christmas Tree-like shape, think again. You will end up with something that looks like an advanced-level sex toy (see: photo on right). Small one-to-two bite squares are ideal and much less disturbing to friends and family.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When you have sliced the gelatin into cubes, roll them in sugar, shaking off the excess. Serve immediately* to people you would like to see very drunk. If you decide against rolling them in sugar, they will not weep, but remain miraculously stable. However, they won't be as sweet. Do with them what you will.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*When I say \"immediately,\" I mean \"immediately.\" These jellies are so laden with alcohol that the will begin to weep if left unattended without refrigeration which, coincidentally, is what the angels will do on your behalf if you eat too many of them. Should this occur (the weeping of the jellies, not the angels), re-roll them again in sugar before serving seconds.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"These jellies are not for children, which is a good thing because in all likelihood, they would not like them. They are what they are, which is incredibly alcoholic. 110 proof. Please serve, suck, and chew them responsibly.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1555704695,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1017},"headData":{"title":"Absinthe Jellies: I Got Them from Tom | KQED","description":"These jellies are not for children, which is a good thing because in all likelihood, they would not like them. They are what they are, which is incredibly alcoholic. 110 proof. Please serve, suck, and chew them responsibly.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Absinthe Jellies: I Got Them from Tom","datePublished":"2012-12-25T19:40:55.000Z","dateModified":"2019-04-19T20:11:35.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"53418 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=53418","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/25/absinthe-jellies-i-got-them-from-tom/","disqusTitle":"Absinthe Jellies: I Got Them from Tom","path":"/bayareabites/53418/absinthe-jellies-i-got-them-from-tom","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Jellies.png\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-53422\" title=\"Absinthe Jellies\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Jellies-300x300.png\" alt=\"Absinthe Jellies\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>I entered this joyous season with a couple of heart-chilling stories I wanted to share with the world and some fun recipes to match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, the point driven home to me for the Holidays was that my capacity for coming up with interesting ideas is not always paired with the culinary talent for bringing them to fruition: the pot pie recipe I threw myself into wound up being thrown in the garbage, the Salted Carmelite nun candies I wanted to give out for Christmas looked warped and depressed in their nasty looking habits. I dare not go on. I will say that even my ability to fix myself a bowl of cereal with confidence was suspect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was enough to drive a person to drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, I recalled the eternal wisdom of the great Maria von Trapp who once said to her flock, \"Wenn der Herr eine Tür schließt, irgendwo Er öffnet ein Fenster,\" which roughly translates (and I do mean roughly) to \"When the Lord closes the door on your edible nun idea, somewhere he opens a window.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As luck would have it, that window happened to shine a divine light upon my liquor shelf. Even more fortunate was the fact that I happened to be browsing the internet reading up on Tom Lehrer, the great mid-20th Century composer of such songs as \"Poisoning Pigeons in The Park\" and \"The Masochism Tango.\" It was if by some unseen force that I was willed to read the Wikipedia passage that mentioned Professor Lehrer's (spurious) claim to have invented the Jell-O shot as a way to circumvent alcohol restrictions while working at Los Alamos Labs in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, just like that, faith in my cooking abilities was restored like a Christmas miracle. Or maybe it was just the booze talking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever the case, it is thanks to Maria von Trapp, God, Tom Lehrer, and that bottle of absinthe collecting dust on my liquor shelf that I am able to bring you a recipe that is sure to please (and thoroughly sozzle) your loved ones, just in time for the Holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Absinthe Jellies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These jellies are not for children, which is a good thing because in all likelihood, they would not like them. They are what they are, which is incredibly alcoholic. 110 proof. Please serve, suck, and chew them responsibly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes enough to summon a legion of green fairies for you and all of your adult loved ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3 cups of water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 (1/4 ounce) packets of unflavored gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 cups of absinthe\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 drops of green food coloring (this is not entirely necessary, but it does make them more appealing)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plenty more granulated sugar for coating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Pour the water into a medium saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface. Leave unmolested for about five minutes, until the gelatin softens. Add one cup of sugar and whisk to combine.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Over low heat, stir the mixture with a rubber spatula, scraping down the sides of the pan as necessary until the sugar and gelatin are fully dissolved. It will take about 8 minutes to attain this state. Whatever you do, DO NOT BOIL. DO NOT EVEN SIMMER or the gelatin will not set properly and you will have wasted a lot of very expensive liquor, which is a crime in every state except Nevada.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Remove your pan of gelatin from the heat, add the absinthe and food coloring, then stir until all is well combined. If there is extra absinthe left in your absinthe bottle, wait until you have finished preparing this recipe until you drink it. Otherwise, I cannot claim responsibility for what happens.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Place an 8x8\" Pyrex baking dish onto a small baking sheet or tray that will fit such a thing, then pour your gelatin into the Pyrex dish. Place in your refrigerator to allow the near-liquid goo to cool and firm-- at least 2 hours or, better yet, over night. There is no need to cover your gelatin unless you also have left items such as creamed herring or durian fruit uncovered in the same refrigerator.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To release your gelatin from its Pyrex confines, dip the container into hot water and (starting from the number one) count to the number seven. After you have wiped the bottom and sides of the Pyrex, place a small cutting board over the top of the container and quickly flip it upside down. The gelatin should now be released on its own recognizance. If it does not, repeat the t water trick and try again. Return the now-freed gelatin (still on the cutting board) to the refrigerator for a few minutes to the top and sides to re-firm themselves if necessary. Remove them only when you are ready to cut and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Butt-Plug.png\">\u003cimg class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-53421\" title=\"Absinthe Butt Plug\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Absinthe-Butt-Plug-300x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Slice the gelatin into any size you wish. If you have made the error of pouring some of the gelatin into an ice cream soda glass, thinking that it might make for an amusing Christmas Tree-like shape, think again. You will end up with something that looks like an advanced-level sex toy (see: photo on right). Small one-to-two bite squares are ideal and much less disturbing to friends and family.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When you have sliced the gelatin into cubes, roll them in sugar, shaking off the excess. Serve immediately* to people you would like to see very drunk. If you decide against rolling them in sugar, they will not weep, but remain miraculously stable. However, they won't be as sweet. Do with them what you will.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*When I say \"immediately,\" I mean \"immediately.\" These jellies are so laden with alcohol that the will begin to weep if left unattended without refrigeration which, coincidentally, is what the angels will do on your behalf if you eat too many of them. Should this occur (the weeping of the jellies, not the angels), re-roll them again in sugar before serving seconds.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/53418/absinthe-jellies-i-got-them-from-tom","authors":["5017"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_12744","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_103","bayareabites_89","bayareabites_14738"],"featImg":"bayareabites_53428","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_53147":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_53147","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"53147","score":null,"sort":[1356029234000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar","title":"Elixirs Made To Fight Malaria Still Shine On The Modern Bar","publishDate":1356029234,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53155\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/martini.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53155\" title=\"Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/martini.jpg\" alt=\"Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/12/17/167488498/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar\">The Salt at NPR\u003c/a> (12/20/12)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, our colleagues over at the Shots blog have been talking a lot about malaria. And, here at The Salt, that got us thinking about one thing: gin and tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you probably know, tonic is simply carbonated water mixed with quinine, a bitter compound that just happens to cure a malaria infection, albeit not so well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out, gin and tonics aren't the only drinks with ties to the feverish disease. If you're sipping an absinthe cocktail or an Italian aperitif this holiday season, chances are you're also imbibing a bit of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2012/12/13/167188333/herbs-and-empires-a-brief-animated-history-of-malaria-drugs\">malaria's history\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many modern day liqueurs like Campari and Pimm's contain quinine. And absinthe –- that anise-flavored spirit with a nasty reputation –- also has a history with malaria.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Absinthe gets its bitter flavor and alleged psychedelic properties from wormwood, a shrub that's been around since the dinosaurs. Coincidentally, the most \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2012/12/18/167440130/a-view-from-the-ground-thailand-battles-drug-resistant-malaria\">powerful malaria drug\u003c/a> we have today also comes from a type of wormwood found in China. More on that later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53157\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/dubonnet.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53157\" title=\"Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/dubonnet.jpg\" alt=\"Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"300\" height=\"433\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So how in the heck did all these malaria drugs get mixed in with our mixology?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's start with the classic: quinine. The bitter compound comes from the bark of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lib.cam.ac.uk/deptserv/rcs/cinchona.html\">cinchona tree\u003c/a> (pronounced sin-KO-neh) in the Andes Mountains of South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's unknown who discovered the fever-curing properties of the cinchona bark, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.kew.org/collections/ecbot/collections/topic/cinchona/a-short-history-of-cinchona/index.html\">according\u003c/a> to the Kew Royalty Botanical Gardens, Jesuit missionaries figured it out by about 1650, and soon it became the front-line defense for malaria in Europe (which at the time was treated with all kinds of barbaric approaches, like limb amputations and bloodletting).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 1800s, the Dutch were growing the cinchona tree on the island of Java in Indonesia to meet the high-demand for quinine back in Europe, where monks and pharmacists were using the bark to make medicinal tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Herb liqueurs all started this way,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amystewart.com/\">Amy Stewart\u003c/a>, the author of a forthcoming book, \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist\u003c/em>, and a specialist in horticulture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Apothecaries would soak the herbs and wood in alcohol to extract out the active ingredients and preserve them,\" she tells The Salt. \"Then you add a little bit of sugar to make it taste better, and you have a liqueur.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stewart says pharmacist and chemists were making concoctions like this for just about every ailment: stomach aches, constipation, kidney stones and even alcohol-induced liver failure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For malaria, they'd simply add cinchona to the elixirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these quinine-spiked liqueurs are still around today, and the malaria drug gives them a characteristic bitter flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/09/dining/new-from-lillet-rose.html?_r=0\">Lillet\u003c/a>, a French aperitif that goes into James Bond's famous martini: \"Three parts of Gordon's gin to one part vodka and a half measure of Kina Lillet,\" he \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc7n7yyXWsU\">says\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Casino Royale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's the Italian \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/21/case-study-cocchi-americano-waking-the-dead/\">Cocchi Americano\u003c/a>, which is an essential component of the Corpse Reviver, one of the first cocktails designed to cure a hangover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, then there's Dubonnet — a sweet, quinine-flavored aperitif \u003ca href=\"http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/8159201.stm\">beloved\u003c/a> by both the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. And, in the movie \u003cem>The Way We Were\u003c/em>, Barbara Streisand drank Dubonnet over ice as Katie Morosky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53156\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/devil.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53156\" title=\"Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/devil.jpg\" alt=\"Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"300\" height=\"403\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dubonnet also shares historical roots with the gin and tonic. They were both concocted as a way to get soldiers to take their malaria medication. Dubonnet helped French troops in North Africa get their quinine while British officers in India cut its bitter taste with gin, carbonated water and twist of lime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what about absinthe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Europeans and South Americans were messing around with cinchona and quinine, the Chinese had an even more powerful malaria drug up their sleeve --or should we say, in their tea cup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a \u003ca href=\"According%20to%20a%20commentary%20in%20the%20British%20Journal%20of%20Clinical\">commentary\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>British Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, \u003c/em>traditional Chinese doctors have been treating malaria with a tea made from sweet wormwood, or qinghao, for thousands of years. They'd soak the shrub in water and then wring it out to extract the active ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/17/health/for-intrigue-malaria-drug-artemisinin-gets-the-prize.html?pagewanted=all\">explained\u003c/a> earlier this year how this herbal remedy become a modern-day malaria drug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1960s, Chairman Mao wanted a magic bullet to stop malaria among his troops in North Vietnam. So he enlisted top scientists to find a new malaria drug from herbs used in traditional Chinese medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took 14 years and over 50 scientists, McNeil says, but finally the scientists isolated a potent anti-malarial compound from sweet wormwood. It's called artemisinin, and we still use it today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a note of caution — artemisinin isn't found in the European wormwood used in absinthe, so a drink of that liqueur wouldn't help with a malaria infection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2012 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">National Public Radio\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Many modern day liqueurs, like Campari and Pimm's, started off as 19th century medicinal tonics made to cure an array of ailments, including malaria. So if you're sipping a French aperitif or an absinth cocktail this holiday season, chances are you're also imbibing a bit of malaria history.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552420372,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":907},"headData":{"title":"Elixirs Made To Fight Malaria Still Shine On The Modern Bar | KQED","description":"Many modern day liqueurs, like Campari and Pimm's, started off as 19th century medicinal tonics made to cure an array of ailments, including malaria. So if you're sipping a French aperitif or an absinth cocktail this holiday season, chances are you're also imbibing a bit of malaria history.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Elixirs Made To Fight Malaria Still Shine On The Modern Bar","datePublished":"2012-12-20T18:47:14.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-12T19:52:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"53147 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=53147","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/20/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar/","disqusTitle":"Elixirs Made To Fight Malaria Still Shine On The Modern Bar","nprByline":"Michaeleen Doucleff","nprStoryId":"167488498","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=167488498&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/12/17/167488498/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar?ft=3&f=167488498","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 20 Dec 2012 12:53:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 20 Dec 2012 12:44:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 20 Dec 2012 12:53:44 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/53147/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53155\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/martini.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53155\" title=\"Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/martini.jpg\" alt=\"Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Photo: Karen Castillo Farfan/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/12/17/167488498/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar\">The Salt at NPR\u003c/a> (12/20/12)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, our colleagues over at the Shots blog have been talking a lot about malaria. And, here at The Salt, that got us thinking about one thing: gin and tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you probably know, tonic is simply carbonated water mixed with quinine, a bitter compound that just happens to cure a malaria infection, albeit not so well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out, gin and tonics aren't the only drinks with ties to the feverish disease. If you're sipping an absinthe cocktail or an Italian aperitif this holiday season, chances are you're also imbibing a bit of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2012/12/13/167188333/herbs-and-empires-a-brief-animated-history-of-malaria-drugs\">malaria's history\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many modern day liqueurs like Campari and Pimm's contain quinine. And absinthe –- that anise-flavored spirit with a nasty reputation –- also has a history with malaria.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Absinthe gets its bitter flavor and alleged psychedelic properties from wormwood, a shrub that's been around since the dinosaurs. Coincidentally, the most \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2012/12/18/167440130/a-view-from-the-ground-thailand-battles-drug-resistant-malaria\">powerful malaria drug\u003c/a> we have today also comes from a type of wormwood found in China. More on that later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53157\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/dubonnet.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53157\" title=\"Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/dubonnet.jpg\" alt=\"Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"300\" height=\"433\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication. Poster: Jules Chéret /Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So how in the heck did all these malaria drugs get mixed in with our mixology?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's start with the classic: quinine. The bitter compound comes from the bark of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lib.cam.ac.uk/deptserv/rcs/cinchona.html\">cinchona tree\u003c/a> (pronounced sin-KO-neh) in the Andes Mountains of South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's unknown who discovered the fever-curing properties of the cinchona bark, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.kew.org/collections/ecbot/collections/topic/cinchona/a-short-history-of-cinchona/index.html\">according\u003c/a> to the Kew Royalty Botanical Gardens, Jesuit missionaries figured it out by about 1650, and soon it became the front-line defense for malaria in Europe (which at the time was treated with all kinds of barbaric approaches, like limb amputations and bloodletting).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 1800s, the Dutch were growing the cinchona tree on the island of Java in Indonesia to meet the high-demand for quinine back in Europe, where monks and pharmacists were using the bark to make medicinal tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Herb liqueurs all started this way,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amystewart.com/\">Amy Stewart\u003c/a>, the author of a forthcoming book, \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist\u003c/em>, and a specialist in horticulture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Apothecaries would soak the herbs and wood in alcohol to extract out the active ingredients and preserve them,\" she tells The Salt. \"Then you add a little bit of sugar to make it taste better, and you have a liqueur.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stewart says pharmacist and chemists were making concoctions like this for just about every ailment: stomach aches, constipation, kidney stones and even alcohol-induced liver failure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For malaria, they'd simply add cinchona to the elixirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these quinine-spiked liqueurs are still around today, and the malaria drug gives them a characteristic bitter flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/09/dining/new-from-lillet-rose.html?_r=0\">Lillet\u003c/a>, a French aperitif that goes into James Bond's famous martini: \"Three parts of Gordon's gin to one part vodka and a half measure of Kina Lillet,\" he \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc7n7yyXWsU\">says\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Casino Royale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's the Italian \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/21/case-study-cocchi-americano-waking-the-dead/\">Cocchi Americano\u003c/a>, which is an essential component of the Corpse Reviver, one of the first cocktails designed to cure a hangover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, then there's Dubonnet — a sweet, quinine-flavored aperitif \u003ca href=\"http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/8159201.stm\">beloved\u003c/a> by both the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. And, in the movie \u003cem>The Way We Were\u003c/em>, Barbara Streisand drank Dubonnet over ice as Katie Morosky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53156\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/devil.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53156\" title=\"Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/devil.jpg\" alt=\"Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"300\" height=\"403\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine. Painting by Leonetto Cappiello/Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dubonnet also shares historical roots with the gin and tonic. They were both concocted as a way to get soldiers to take their malaria medication. Dubonnet helped French troops in North Africa get their quinine while British officers in India cut its bitter taste with gin, carbonated water and twist of lime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what about absinthe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Europeans and South Americans were messing around with cinchona and quinine, the Chinese had an even more powerful malaria drug up their sleeve --or should we say, in their tea cup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a \u003ca href=\"According%20to%20a%20commentary%20in%20the%20British%20Journal%20of%20Clinical\">commentary\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>British Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, \u003c/em>traditional Chinese doctors have been treating malaria with a tea made from sweet wormwood, or qinghao, for thousands of years. They'd soak the shrub in water and then wring it out to extract the active ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/17/health/for-intrigue-malaria-drug-artemisinin-gets-the-prize.html?pagewanted=all\">explained\u003c/a> earlier this year how this herbal remedy become a modern-day malaria drug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1960s, Chairman Mao wanted a magic bullet to stop malaria among his troops in North Vietnam. So he enlisted top scientists to find a new malaria drug from herbs used in traditional Chinese medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took 14 years and over 50 scientists, McNeil says, but finally the scientists isolated a potent anti-malarial compound from sweet wormwood. It's called artemisinin, and we still use it today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a note of caution — artemisinin isn't found in the European wormwood used in absinthe, so a drink of that liqueur wouldn't help with a malaria infection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2012 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">National Public Radio\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/53147/elixirs-made-to-fight-malaria-still-shine-on-the-modern-bar","authors":["byline_bayareabites_53147"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_103","bayareabites_89","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_53148","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_42415":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_42415","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"42415","score":null,"sort":[1336294190000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"interview-with-absinthe-chef-adam-keough-spicy-rabbit-meatballs-food-secrets-and-culinary-mentors","title":"Interview with Absinthe Chef Adam Keough: spicy rabbit meatballs, food secrets and culinary mentors","publishDate":1336294190,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/adam-keough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42826\" title=\"Adam Keough\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/adam-keough.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Keough\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Adam Keough. Photo Credit: Ana Homonnay\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One San Francisco hotspot that has been able to consistently nail brasserie food and thoughtful cocktails is \u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>. The Hayes Valley location and varied menu tend to be a draw for arts patrons and gourmand imbibers, and the inviting space gives off a sexy and warm vibe (what’s not to love about that?). Adam Keough, 34, has been the Executive Chef of Absinthe since 2010. During his tenure, Absinthe garnered a Chronicle \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100\u003c/a> spot for both 2011 and 2012. Wine Spectator gave Absinthe its Best of Award of Excellence for three straight years from 2009 through 2011. The accolade list continues: Absinthe is also on the 2011 and 2012 \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/tags/eater-38\">Eater SF 38\u003c/a> Essential San Francisco Restaurants list and \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/big-eat-2012-list\">7x7 Magazine Big Eat 2012\u003c/a> list of 100 things to eat before you die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Keogh is from Boston and early on felt the draw of the kitchen when he did holiday cooking with his grandparents as a kid. His first job was as a teenager at a South Boston restaurant and he then enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. Keough did an externship at the Ritz-Carlton in Palm Beach and was junior sous chef and chef de cuisine for award-winning \u003ca href=\"http://ambrosiaeventsandcatering.com/thechef.html\">Chef Anthony Ambrose\u003c/a> at Ambrosia on Huntington. The budding chef worked with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Joshua Skenes\u003c/a> at Ambrosia, and the two remained friends after Skenes landed in the Bay Area (more on that in a bit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He next worked under Skenes at Chez TJ, and then cheffed for the \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/\">Mina Restaurant Group\u003c/a> at Arcadia in San Jose. At age 28, he opened \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/restaurants/locations/stoc.php\">Stonehill Tavern\u003c/a> for Michael Mina at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point. Under his watch, the restaurant received three stars from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-stonehill-review,0,541908.story\">Los Angeles Times\u003c/a>, and Keough was named “Best New Chef of Orange County” by Riviera magazine. He was also twice a \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">James Beard Foundation\u003c/a> semifinalist, in 2007 and 2008. Bay Area Bites caught up with Keough via telephone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s new at the restaurant? We hear you’re \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/el_cuchillo\">looking for a pastry cook\u003c/a>.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe’re always looking for good people in every department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/03/13/matt-conway-named-bar-manager-at-absinthe/\">Mattie Conway\u003c/a> is now the Bar Manager. We’re re-launching some items on the menu and he’s still out front doing some bartending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously launching the spring menu is exciting. We’re coming out of the long winter, where you see the same products over and over. So once spring hits, you have beautiful vegetables and fruit. I’m adding a mozzarella stuffed arancini with a spicy orange pomodoro. My grandmother used to put orange juice in her marinara for sweetness. The dish is done with a little white wine, and San Marzano tomatoes charred under the broiler. Fold that into all the ingredients, and then do a slow simmer for 45 minutes. There’s acid to balance the flavor from all the mascarpone cheese and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By early May, there will also be an open face smoked trout sandwich with gribiche sauce, crispy pancetta, butter lettuce, and pickled red onion, on griddled brioche. Gribiche is almost like a French version of tartare sauce. It has all the same kind of components, and instead of egg yolk, there’s a mayo made with hard boiled egg. Then I fold in capers, cornichons and fines herbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m also preparing a James Beard menu, for an event happening at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/\">Beard House\u003c/a> in Manhattan mid-summer. We have a team of about ten people doing the planning and preparing. Everyone’s distributed to different tasks, and we’ll create the Absinthe experience there. Which means we bring everything there. I went ten years ago with Tony Ambrose. They’ve remodeled since I was there last, but you can look online to see how it’s all set up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You rotate rabbit meatballs on the menu. Meatballs are crowd pleasing, but why go with rabbit?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe way the rabbit meatballs started is I wanted to do this rabbit stew because I really like a good, simple braised rabbit stew. But the loin pieces of meat always dry out. So I decided I wanted to just serve my favorite part of the rabbit: the front and hind legs. Then I can take the rest of the meat and do something different. Thinking about our bar snack program, you've got people who are going to the symphony and getting small bites and what not… Whenever rabbit stew is on the menu, then meatballs are also on the bar menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, I do and she likes it when I mention her (laughs). Emily LeBloch and I met when I was the chef at Stonehill Tavern. I was at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/red-fox-lounge-san-clemente\">Red Fox Lounge\u003c/a> bar. It’s a surfer and lifeguard type of bar and I used to go there after work. She was having a small birthday party and asked me to sign her friend’s birthday card. We started talking and have been together for 5 yrs. She’s a behavior therapist for kids with CARD (the \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforautism.com/\">Center for Autism Related Disorders\u003c/a>) and we live together in Hayes Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Working at a place called Absinthe may get people wondering if you love to order the “green fairy” spirit. Do you drink absinthe?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI like it in cocktails and try and taste everything here. But I prefer my drink to be the 21 Hayes, which has gin, Pimms and muddled cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbow.coop/\">Rainbow\u003c/a>. For meats and things, I’ll stop by \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> and get something cool.\u003cbr>\nI don't want it to blow up too much but I like to go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/katana-ya-san-francisco\">Katana-Ya\u003c/a> on Geary at Mason. Every time, I get the lava roll, which has tempura shrimp with spicy tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We really like going to \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com/\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a>, usually for lunch on Monday, which is always my day off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go get pizza at \u003ca href=\"http://tonyspizzanapoletana.com/\">Tony’s\u003c/a> in North Beach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMichael Mina – we still communicate by phone or text.\u003cbr>\nTony Ambrose really taught me a lot and we still talk quite a bit. He’ll probably come to the James Beard dinner.\u003cbr>\nJosh Skenes – we worked together years ago with Tony Ambrose. Then Josh moved out here. He kept telling me about Chez TJ, and the produce and restaurant scene out here. So then we worked together at Chez TJ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite cooking style that I love is cooking whole cuts of meat, whether it’s a whole turkey, prime rib, or leg of lamb. I make an herb marinade, and then a sauce from the natural pan drippings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSmartfood popcorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any other news? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBeyond going to New York for the James Beard dinner, I have some trips planned to Vegas this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/560_BABKeough_RabbitMeatballs.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42825\" title=\"Rabbit Meatballs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/560_BABKeough_RabbitMeatballs.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbit Meatballs\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPhoto Credit: Ana Homonnay\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Spicy Rabbit Meatballs\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yields:\u003c/strong> about 20-25 golf ball size meatballs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: Meatballs\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 lb ground rabbit (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground chicken leg meat (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground pancetta (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground back fat (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1C finely chopped Calabrian chiles\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 Tbs finely chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n3/4 C minced yellow onions\u003cbr>\n1 tsp toasted and ground fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n2 tbs Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n2 tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped Italian parsley\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped oregano\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped basil\u003cbr>\n2 tsp red chile flakes\u003cbr>\n1/2 C grated Parmesan\u003cbr>\n4 ea whole eggs\u003cbr>\n1/4 C milk\u003cbr>\n1/3 C Ricotta cheese\u003cbr>\n3 C bread crumbs (made from Italian or French loaf)\u003cbr>\n1qt olive oil for frying\u003cbr>\n1 pt All purpose flour for coating the meatballs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 qt San Marzano tomatoes, hand crushed\u003cbr>\n1 bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Mix the ricotta, milk and eggs in a bowl and lightly whisk together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add all other meatball ingredients in a big bowl and pour over the milk-ricotta mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix well. Then sauté a small piece in oil to check for seasoning. Adjust seasoning if necessary.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Form by hand into golf ball sized meatballs and put on a large tray lined with wax paper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat oil in skillet to 350 degrees. Heat tomatoes and basil in a large pot. Season with salt & pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lightly coat 9 or 10 meatballs at a time with the flour and fry in the oil until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel. Then add them to the tomato sauce. Repeat until all the meatballs are fried.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cook over low heat (very slight bubbles) for 1.5 hours. Stir gently every 20 minutes to rotate the meatballs.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn off heat and cool the meatballs down in the sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve with crusty bread or over your favorite type of pasta. These meatballs are best topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese, chopped basil and good extra virgin olive oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd profiles Absinthe chef Adam Keough, who shares his spicy rabbit meatball recipe and talks about cooking, food and his culinary mentors.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552420584,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1536},"headData":{"title":"Interview with Absinthe Chef Adam Keough: spicy rabbit meatballs, food secrets and culinary mentors | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd profiles Absinthe chef Adam Keough, who shares his spicy rabbit meatball recipe and talks about cooking, food and his culinary mentors.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Interview with Absinthe Chef Adam Keough: spicy rabbit meatballs, food secrets and culinary mentors","datePublished":"2012-05-06T08:49:50.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-12T19:56:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"42415 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=42415","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/06/interview-with-absinthe-chef-adam-keough-spicy-rabbit-meatballs-food-secrets-and-culinary-mentors/","disqusTitle":"Interview with Absinthe Chef Adam Keough: spicy rabbit meatballs, food secrets and culinary mentors","path":"/bayareabites/42415/interview-with-absinthe-chef-adam-keough-spicy-rabbit-meatballs-food-secrets-and-culinary-mentors","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/adam-keough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42826\" title=\"Adam Keough\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/adam-keough.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Keough\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Adam Keough. Photo Credit: Ana Homonnay\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One San Francisco hotspot that has been able to consistently nail brasserie food and thoughtful cocktails is \u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>. The Hayes Valley location and varied menu tend to be a draw for arts patrons and gourmand imbibers, and the inviting space gives off a sexy and warm vibe (what’s not to love about that?). Adam Keough, 34, has been the Executive Chef of Absinthe since 2010. During his tenure, Absinthe garnered a Chronicle \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100\u003c/a> spot for both 2011 and 2012. Wine Spectator gave Absinthe its Best of Award of Excellence for three straight years from 2009 through 2011. The accolade list continues: Absinthe is also on the 2011 and 2012 \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/tags/eater-38\">Eater SF 38\u003c/a> Essential San Francisco Restaurants list and \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/big-eat-2012-list\">7x7 Magazine Big Eat 2012\u003c/a> list of 100 things to eat before you die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Keogh is from Boston and early on felt the draw of the kitchen when he did holiday cooking with his grandparents as a kid. His first job was as a teenager at a South Boston restaurant and he then enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. Keough did an externship at the Ritz-Carlton in Palm Beach and was junior sous chef and chef de cuisine for award-winning \u003ca href=\"http://ambrosiaeventsandcatering.com/thechef.html\">Chef Anthony Ambrose\u003c/a> at Ambrosia on Huntington. The budding chef worked with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Joshua Skenes\u003c/a> at Ambrosia, and the two remained friends after Skenes landed in the Bay Area (more on that in a bit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He next worked under Skenes at Chez TJ, and then cheffed for the \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/\">Mina Restaurant Group\u003c/a> at Arcadia in San Jose. At age 28, he opened \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/restaurants/locations/stoc.php\">Stonehill Tavern\u003c/a> for Michael Mina at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point. Under his watch, the restaurant received three stars from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-stonehill-review,0,541908.story\">Los Angeles Times\u003c/a>, and Keough was named “Best New Chef of Orange County” by Riviera magazine. He was also twice a \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">James Beard Foundation\u003c/a> semifinalist, in 2007 and 2008. Bay Area Bites caught up with Keough via telephone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s new at the restaurant? We hear you’re \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/el_cuchillo\">looking for a pastry cook\u003c/a>.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe’re always looking for good people in every department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/03/13/matt-conway-named-bar-manager-at-absinthe/\">Mattie Conway\u003c/a> is now the Bar Manager. We’re re-launching some items on the menu and he’s still out front doing some bartending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously launching the spring menu is exciting. We’re coming out of the long winter, where you see the same products over and over. So once spring hits, you have beautiful vegetables and fruit. I’m adding a mozzarella stuffed arancini with a spicy orange pomodoro. My grandmother used to put orange juice in her marinara for sweetness. The dish is done with a little white wine, and San Marzano tomatoes charred under the broiler. Fold that into all the ingredients, and then do a slow simmer for 45 minutes. There’s acid to balance the flavor from all the mascarpone cheese and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By early May, there will also be an open face smoked trout sandwich with gribiche sauce, crispy pancetta, butter lettuce, and pickled red onion, on griddled brioche. Gribiche is almost like a French version of tartare sauce. It has all the same kind of components, and instead of egg yolk, there’s a mayo made with hard boiled egg. Then I fold in capers, cornichons and fines herbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m also preparing a James Beard menu, for an event happening at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/\">Beard House\u003c/a> in Manhattan mid-summer. We have a team of about ten people doing the planning and preparing. Everyone’s distributed to different tasks, and we’ll create the Absinthe experience there. Which means we bring everything there. I went ten years ago with Tony Ambrose. They’ve remodeled since I was there last, but you can look online to see how it’s all set up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You rotate rabbit meatballs on the menu. Meatballs are crowd pleasing, but why go with rabbit?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe way the rabbit meatballs started is I wanted to do this rabbit stew because I really like a good, simple braised rabbit stew. But the loin pieces of meat always dry out. So I decided I wanted to just serve my favorite part of the rabbit: the front and hind legs. Then I can take the rest of the meat and do something different. Thinking about our bar snack program, you've got people who are going to the symphony and getting small bites and what not… Whenever rabbit stew is on the menu, then meatballs are also on the bar menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, I do and she likes it when I mention her (laughs). Emily LeBloch and I met when I was the chef at Stonehill Tavern. I was at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/red-fox-lounge-san-clemente\">Red Fox Lounge\u003c/a> bar. It’s a surfer and lifeguard type of bar and I used to go there after work. She was having a small birthday party and asked me to sign her friend’s birthday card. We started talking and have been together for 5 yrs. She’s a behavior therapist for kids with CARD (the \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforautism.com/\">Center for Autism Related Disorders\u003c/a>) and we live together in Hayes Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Working at a place called Absinthe may get people wondering if you love to order the “green fairy” spirit. Do you drink absinthe?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI like it in cocktails and try and taste everything here. But I prefer my drink to be the 21 Hayes, which has gin, Pimms and muddled cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbow.coop/\">Rainbow\u003c/a>. For meats and things, I’ll stop by \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> and get something cool.\u003cbr>\nI don't want it to blow up too much but I like to go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/katana-ya-san-francisco\">Katana-Ya\u003c/a> on Geary at Mason. Every time, I get the lava roll, which has tempura shrimp with spicy tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We really like going to \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com/\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a>, usually for lunch on Monday, which is always my day off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go get pizza at \u003ca href=\"http://tonyspizzanapoletana.com/\">Tony’s\u003c/a> in North Beach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMichael Mina – we still communicate by phone or text.\u003cbr>\nTony Ambrose really taught me a lot and we still talk quite a bit. He’ll probably come to the James Beard dinner.\u003cbr>\nJosh Skenes – we worked together years ago with Tony Ambrose. Then Josh moved out here. He kept telling me about Chez TJ, and the produce and restaurant scene out here. So then we worked together at Chez TJ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite cooking style that I love is cooking whole cuts of meat, whether it’s a whole turkey, prime rib, or leg of lamb. I make an herb marinade, and then a sauce from the natural pan drippings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSmartfood popcorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any other news? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBeyond going to New York for the James Beard dinner, I have some trips planned to Vegas this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/560_BABKeough_RabbitMeatballs.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42825\" title=\"Rabbit Meatballs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/560_BABKeough_RabbitMeatballs.jpg\" alt=\"Rabbit Meatballs\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPhoto Credit: Ana Homonnay\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Spicy Rabbit Meatballs\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yields:\u003c/strong> about 20-25 golf ball size meatballs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: Meatballs\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 lb ground rabbit (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground chicken leg meat (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground pancetta (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1/4 lb ground back fat (very cold)\u003cbr>\n1C finely chopped Calabrian chiles\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 Tbs finely chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n3/4 C minced yellow onions\u003cbr>\n1 tsp toasted and ground fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n2 tbs Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n2 tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped Italian parsley\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped oregano\u003cbr>\n1/4 C chopped basil\u003cbr>\n2 tsp red chile flakes\u003cbr>\n1/2 C grated Parmesan\u003cbr>\n4 ea whole eggs\u003cbr>\n1/4 C milk\u003cbr>\n1/3 C Ricotta cheese\u003cbr>\n3 C bread crumbs (made from Italian or French loaf)\u003cbr>\n1qt olive oil for frying\u003cbr>\n1 pt All purpose flour for coating the meatballs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 qt San Marzano tomatoes, hand crushed\u003cbr>\n1 bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Mix the ricotta, milk and eggs in a bowl and lightly whisk together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add all other meatball ingredients in a big bowl and pour over the milk-ricotta mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix well. Then sauté a small piece in oil to check for seasoning. Adjust seasoning if necessary.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Form by hand into golf ball sized meatballs and put on a large tray lined with wax paper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat oil in skillet to 350 degrees. Heat tomatoes and basil in a large pot. Season with salt & pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lightly coat 9 or 10 meatballs at a time with the flour and fry in the oil until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel. Then add them to the tomato sauce. Repeat until all the meatballs are fried.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cook over low heat (very slight bubbles) for 1.5 hours. Stir gently every 20 minutes to rotate the meatballs.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn off heat and cool the meatballs down in the sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve with crusty bread or over your favorite type of pasta. These meatballs are best topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese, chopped basil and good extra virgin olive oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/42415/interview-with-absinthe-chef-adam-keough-spicy-rabbit-meatballs-food-secrets-and-culinary-mentors","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_103","bayareabites_10373","bayareabites_2597","bayareabites_2434","bayareabites_14738"],"featImg":"bayareabites_42826","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_817":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_817","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"817","score":null,"sort":[1198299600000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-worm-turns-absinthe-verte","title":"The Worm Turns: Absinthe Verte","publishDate":1198299600,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xdJ9SdjzI/AAAAAAAAABw/8HP5A-iNq1E/s1600-h/absinthe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xdJ9SdjzI/AAAAAAAAABw/8HP5A-iNq1E/s320/absinthe.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate black licorice. I don't drink pastis or ouzo or sambuca, so why the hell was I standing outside \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com/\">Hangar One\u003c/a>\u003c/b>-\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/\">St. George Spirits\u003c/a>\u003c/b> on a December morning in a thin jacket waiting for them to throw open the doors to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://kqedbayareabites.blogspot.com/2007/12/give-gift-of-san-francisco.html\">Absinthe Verte\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, the nation's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/12/05/MNQJTO9FM.DTL\">\u003cb>absinthe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>? If you had asked me at 10:30, my wind-numbed lips wouldn't have issued anything more intelligent beyond, \"...'cuz?\" At 12:30, my absinthe-numbed lips told a very different story, \"Frabjous! Refulgent! EUDEMONIA!\" Quite frankly, if the Jabberwocky had a signature drink, Absinthe Verte would be it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the doors set to open at 11:00 on a Friday morning on December 21st, we thought we were playing it safe by arriving in Alameda at 10:30. However, as there were about 160 people in line ahead of us, clearly others were playing it safer. We were in line not even 20 minutes when the line behind us snaked and bulged exponentially. When the doors did finally open at 11:00, the news came out that they were allowing in groups of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>St. George Spirits made 3600 bottles and after they distributed to their choice stores and bar and other accounts, they had 1600-ish bottles left to sell to those of us who showed up on this chill December morn. Given that they weren't restricting the amount each customer could carry off, it was going to be tight for some.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xerNSdj0I/AAAAAAAAAB4/ALKSRqMPP64/s1600-h/stamp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xerNSdj0I/AAAAAAAAAB4/ALKSRqMPP64/s320/stamp.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we smiled at those buying up cases of four, secured our single bottle for $75.00*, and headed to the tasting room for our $10 sip of liquid envy. Sporting green shirts announcing, \"Green is the new black,\" St. George Spirits' alchemists slithered bright green, one ounce-pours into elegant and keepable glasses and slipped a small shard of ice on top. We were advised to taste quickly before the ice melted and blanched the clear cheeks a pearly green. Happily complying, I felt my lips go numb and my tongue tingle. I tasted not the dreaded intensity of black jelly beans, but a gossamer haze of fennel, lemon balm, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clean and herbaceous, Absinthe Verte is unlike other varieties that often summon up a traditional \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.allthingsabsinthe.com/sippinginstructions2.html\">sugar cube filter\u003c/a>\u003c/b> to mitigate their bitter edge. Alone or with the tiniest splash of cold water, Absinthe Verte blew my muse to a brillig place of spongy clouds, buzzing with emerald bees. As I swam through my happy mist that also warbled about stinging nettles, basil, tarragon, hyssop, wormwood, meadowsweet, and star anise, it hit me: absinthe \u003ci>does\u003c/i> make the heart grow fonder, the meaning of life is easy to find if you just look for it, and St. George Spirits has lusted up one happily wicked drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I have absolutely no desire to profane this blithe spirit with anything beyond ice or water, I spoke with Dave Smith, Assistant Distiller, about cocktail ideas. His eyes glowing, he told me about a cocktail his friend whipped up: simply shake some citron vodka (I think \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com/fruit3.html\">Hangar One's Buddha's Hand\u003c/a>\u003c/b> might do well) with ice and pour it into an absinthe-rinsed cocktail glass. (Rinsed right into your mouth, I would think!) However, at this celebratory time of year, Hemingway's famous \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.absintheonline.com/acatalog/Cocktails.html\">Death in the Afternoon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> might get your party started (or ended) with just champagne and absinthe. Finally, you can try this historic and area-appropriate tipple from the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stork_Club\">Stork Club\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Earthquake Cocktail\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce gin\u003cbr>\n1 ounce bourbon\u003cbr>\n3/4 ounce absinthe\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shake with ice and serve in a cocktail glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All over the city Bay Area bartenders are rushing to create absinthe-based cocktails, because for the near future, absinthe definitely replaces \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stgermainelderflower.com/\">St. Germain\u003c/a>\u003c/b> as the new It spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For any unfortunates who didn't manage to wrap their cold fists around any of the first 3600 bottles, don't despair. Dave said that while Absinthe Verte is their \"most complicated product\" that they \"can't just make on the fly,\" they do hope to have their next batch bottled by the end of January. Get in line now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ci>(In the interest of full disclosure, I did pay the full amount for my bottle of Absinthe Verte and my $10 taste. I also didn't muscle through the patient crowd, flashing my KQED press badge, and jump the queue. Nope. I stood there and waited my turn with everyone else and I'm proud of it.)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552423329,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":748},"headData":{"title":"The Worm Turns: Absinthe Verte | KQED","description":"I hate black licorice. I don't drink pastis or ouzo or sambuca, so why the hell was I standing outside Hangar One-St. George Spirits on a December morning in a thin jacket waiting for them to throw open the doors to Absinthe Verte, the nation's first absinthe? If you had asked me at 10:30, my","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Worm Turns: Absinthe Verte","datePublished":"2007-12-22T05:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-12T20:42:09.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"817 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/12/21/the-worm-turns-absinthe-verte/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/12/21/the-worm-turns-absinthe-verte/","disqusTitle":"The Worm Turns: Absinthe Verte","path":"/bayareabites/817/the-worm-turns-absinthe-verte","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xdJ9SdjzI/AAAAAAAAABw/8HP5A-iNq1E/s1600-h/absinthe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xdJ9SdjzI/AAAAAAAAABw/8HP5A-iNq1E/s320/absinthe.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate black licorice. I don't drink pastis or ouzo or sambuca, so why the hell was I standing outside \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com/\">Hangar One\u003c/a>\u003c/b>-\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/\">St. George Spirits\u003c/a>\u003c/b> on a December morning in a thin jacket waiting for them to throw open the doors to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://kqedbayareabites.blogspot.com/2007/12/give-gift-of-san-francisco.html\">Absinthe Verte\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, the nation's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/12/05/MNQJTO9FM.DTL\">\u003cb>absinthe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>? If you had asked me at 10:30, my wind-numbed lips wouldn't have issued anything more intelligent beyond, \"...'cuz?\" At 12:30, my absinthe-numbed lips told a very different story, \"Frabjous! Refulgent! EUDEMONIA!\" Quite frankly, if the Jabberwocky had a signature drink, Absinthe Verte would be it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the doors set to open at 11:00 on a Friday morning on December 21st, we thought we were playing it safe by arriving in Alameda at 10:30. However, as there were about 160 people in line ahead of us, clearly others were playing it safer. We were in line not even 20 minutes when the line behind us snaked and bulged exponentially. When the doors did finally open at 11:00, the news came out that they were allowing in groups of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>St. George Spirits made 3600 bottles and after they distributed to their choice stores and bar and other accounts, they had 1600-ish bottles left to sell to those of us who showed up on this chill December morn. Given that they weren't restricting the amount each customer could carry off, it was going to be tight for some.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xerNSdj0I/AAAAAAAAAB4/ALKSRqMPP64/s1600-h/stamp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_DbuYN4yNX_A/R2xerNSdj0I/AAAAAAAAAB4/ALKSRqMPP64/s320/stamp.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we smiled at those buying up cases of four, secured our single bottle for $75.00*, and headed to the tasting room for our $10 sip of liquid envy. Sporting green shirts announcing, \"Green is the new black,\" St. George Spirits' alchemists slithered bright green, one ounce-pours into elegant and keepable glasses and slipped a small shard of ice on top. We were advised to taste quickly before the ice melted and blanched the clear cheeks a pearly green. Happily complying, I felt my lips go numb and my tongue tingle. I tasted not the dreaded intensity of black jelly beans, but a gossamer haze of fennel, lemon balm, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clean and herbaceous, Absinthe Verte is unlike other varieties that often summon up a traditional \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.allthingsabsinthe.com/sippinginstructions2.html\">sugar cube filter\u003c/a>\u003c/b> to mitigate their bitter edge. Alone or with the tiniest splash of cold water, Absinthe Verte blew my muse to a brillig place of spongy clouds, buzzing with emerald bees. As I swam through my happy mist that also warbled about stinging nettles, basil, tarragon, hyssop, wormwood, meadowsweet, and star anise, it hit me: absinthe \u003ci>does\u003c/i> make the heart grow fonder, the meaning of life is easy to find if you just look for it, and St. George Spirits has lusted up one happily wicked drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I have absolutely no desire to profane this blithe spirit with anything beyond ice or water, I spoke with Dave Smith, Assistant Distiller, about cocktail ideas. His eyes glowing, he told me about a cocktail his friend whipped up: simply shake some citron vodka (I think \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com/fruit3.html\">Hangar One's Buddha's Hand\u003c/a>\u003c/b> might do well) with ice and pour it into an absinthe-rinsed cocktail glass. (Rinsed right into your mouth, I would think!) However, at this celebratory time of year, Hemingway's famous \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.absintheonline.com/acatalog/Cocktails.html\">Death in the Afternoon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> might get your party started (or ended) with just champagne and absinthe. Finally, you can try this historic and area-appropriate tipple from the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stork_Club\">Stork Club\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Earthquake Cocktail\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce gin\u003cbr>\n1 ounce bourbon\u003cbr>\n3/4 ounce absinthe\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shake with ice and serve in a cocktail glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All over the city Bay Area bartenders are rushing to create absinthe-based cocktails, because for the near future, absinthe definitely replaces \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stgermainelderflower.com/\">St. Germain\u003c/a>\u003c/b> as the new It spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For any unfortunates who didn't manage to wrap their cold fists around any of the first 3600 bottles, don't despair. Dave said that while Absinthe Verte is their \"most complicated product\" that they \"can't just make on the fly,\" they do hope to have their next batch bottled by the end of January. Get in line now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ci>(In the interest of full disclosure, I did pay the full amount for my bottle of Absinthe Verte and my $10 taste. I also didn't muscle through the patient crowd, flashing my KQED press badge, and jump the queue. Nope. I stood there and waited my turn with everyone else and I'm proud of it.)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/817/the-worm-turns-absinthe-verte","authors":["5010"],"categories":["bayareabites_1244"],"tags":["bayareabites_103","bayareabites_16345"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. 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