Our first Hawaiian meal — aside from that pineapple-drenched shave ice we treated ourselves to after hiking to the top of Diamond Head in serious heat — was at the Saveur-recommended Side Street Inn on Hopaka Street in Honolulu.

Determined to try as much as we could that was unknown to us, we ordered about eight dishes between the two of us. When we asked for the ika, our waitress hesitated. “This is dried and charbroiled squid,” she explained, totally convinced that haoles wouldn’t be able to handle it. Bring. It. ON.

The dish came and, as you can see above, this is not your typical calamari. The strips of squid were served with a soy mayonnaise as a dipping sauce, which they really didn’t need since all it did was up the saltiness of the already well-seasoned squid. As we thoughtfully gnawed through strip after strip of the squid — a workout our jaws definitely felt the next morning — my husband decided, “This is squid jerky!” And so it was. I have to say, I wouldn’t mind having a packet of ika with me on my next hike. It was briny and chewy but strangely satisfying. Even more satisfying was our waitress’ surprised but pleased look when she cleared away our empty plate.

Another plate that was nearly licked completely clean was the aku poke. Slathered to a silken sheen with sesame oil, the dense gobbets of ruby-fleshed aku were dressed with bright green threads of lime kohu seaweed, crushed kukui nuts (inamona), and a crunchy blend of local salt and minced red pepper that happily set our mouths aflame. Aku is a kind of Hawaiian tuna, also known as skipjack, katsuo, or striped tuna. It was the first and best poke I was to taste on the islands.

Side Street Inn
1225 Hopaka Street
Honolulu, HI

Squid Jerky at Honolulu’s Side Street Inn 8 March,2007Stephanie Lucianovic

  • Thy

    This reminds me of the dried squid my mom used as bribes on my sister and me to keep us quiet at the market. You can imagine how hard it is to raise your voices while you’re chewing that stuff! On the streets of Vietnam, you can find vendors who will press the whole, dried squid in special, hand-cranked rollers and then char them over hot charcoal. A splotch of chile sauce and you’re set…yummm!

    You can find the dried squid at Asian markets, but they usually not as nice and chewy as the ones on the islands.


Stephanie Lucianovic

A former picky eater, Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic is a writer, editor, and lapsed cheesemonger in the San Francisco Bay Area. A culinary school grad with an English lit degree, she has written for CNN.com, MSNBC.com, Popular Science, The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Boston Globe. Additionally, she has been writing for KQED’s Bay Area Bites since its inception and is the website editor for KQED’s Emmy-award winning show “Check, Please! Bay Area.”

Stephanie was an original recapper at Television Without Pity and worked on a line of cookbooks for William-Sonoma as well as in the back kitchen of a Jacques Pépin cooking show. Her first book, SUFFERING SUCCOTASH: A Picky Eater’s Quest To Understand Why We Hate the Foods We Hate (Perigee Books, 2012) is a non-fiction narrative and a heartfelt and humorous exposé on the inner lives of picky eaters that Scientific American called “hilarious” and “the perfect popular science book for a reader that doesn’t think he or she wants to read a popular science book.”

Stephanie lives in Menlo Park with her husband, three-year-old son, assorted cats, and has been blogging at The Grub Report for over a decade.

Follow her on Twitter at @grubreport

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